Conceived from frustration but born out of love Fleye is an award winning eyewear brand offering glass wearers a whole new way of seeing the world,

as Tracey Porter reports.

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The eye of innovation

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IT WASN’T THE MOST AUSPICIOUS OF STARTS.

The hangovers were still subsiding from the parties ringing in the new millennium but professionally at least Annette Estø felt she had little to celebrate.

An optometry teacher by trade, Estø was working as a sales manager for a Danish eyewear manufacturer when concern at the length of time it was taking her designer to get new models to market, finally got the better of her.

She complained to the person in question who suggested she “try it for herself”, lest it be that easy.

Never one to back down from a challenge, she put the kids to bed, sat down at her kitchen table and picked up a pencil.

“When my kids were young, I could not draw anything they could recognise,” she says.

“But I found out that I did not have a problem drawing frames, it felt very natural for me. I developed a lot of new models [and] in fact, they ended up selling much better than the models my boss had designed.”

A short while later Estø and colleagues Lars Halstrøm and Hanne Rosenvold Anderson plucked up the courage to venture out on their own, taking on the roles as design head, sales manager and CEO respectively.

From the beginning the trio and the new entity they named Fleye – short for Fine Looking Eye – have made it their business to stand out from the crowd.

“We showed the frames for the first time at a big garden party where we had invited 100 potential customers. One customer came and said ‘I want to be customer number one, so please pick out the 24 pieces you think I’ll need and I will pay right away’. He [remains] a loyal customer.”

The Danish brand has been quick to connect with a global audience tired of the cookie-cutter design of most eyewear presented before them. While it may have its foundations in Denmark, the 13-year-old label has been quickly adopted by prescription and sunglass wearers across the world and now sells across 30 markets internationally.

Scandinavia accounts for the majority of its sales however emerging markets such as China and Australia (where it is distributed by Sydney group House of Brands, led by the former Australian president of Pandora Jewellery Karin Adcock) has seen a significant lift in sales of late with growth here partially aided by the fact popular royals Crown Prince Frederik and Crown Princess Mary were spotted wearing the brand.

While reluctant to take sole credit for the growth and popularity of the Fleye range, Estø concedes the Fleye team are on to a winning formula.

“Our competitors are high-end original eyewear brands. Competition is tough. The world of eyewear is overpopulated with brands. But we

do certain things differently and that has proven to be successful. We always try to surpass people’s expectations.”

While there is some variation from collection to collection, Estø says the range is neither the most expensive nor the least expensive on offer with pieces in its horn and wood frame range boasting a recommended retail price of around $930 and its children’s frames selling for around $300.

Having cornered the market in feather-light eyewear, each Fleye frame is constructed with a custom slim design and made from a range of allergy-friendly materials including acetate (using recycled plastic), buffalo horn, carbon fibre (with 3D effects) and Beta-Titanium – the result of which means the majority of their frames weigh less than seven grams.

Of the firm belief that great eyewear should do more than improve your eyesight but also communicate who you are, Estø ensures each frame is multi-functional, making available colour matched clip-ons with

Fleye is short for Fantastic Looking Eye.

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polarised lenses upon request. All sunglasses have polarised anti-reflective Carl Zeiss lenses and have cylinder shaped temple tips to provide additional comfort.

While designing for differing face structures are among a host of challenges faced by eyewear manufacturers, Fleye has managed to get around the issue by catering for just about every size face shape available, producing large men’s frames in size 61 to petite women’s or kids’ in size 44.

“When designing new collections we always have these [different face structures] in mind, so we make sure the fit is perfect. For example, in Australia there’s a demand for larger men’s frames and in Asia we need to keep their smaller nose shapes in mind,” Estø says.

Fleye has also increased the depth of its frames over the past 10 years making it easer for those using progressive lenses.

In addition the brand and its 30-member strong team have developed and patented a unique nose pad wire that allows the wearer to adjust placement of their glasses to ensure a customisable fit. Its innovative design proving an immediate hit with loyal customers and resulting in Fleye recognised as one of the few apparel or accessory brands ever to be singled out by judges at the prestigious Red Dot Design Awards.

Currently the prestige brand produces two main collections a year, one each for spring/summer and fall/winter, but has a few mini-releases in between - no mean feat when its takes between four and six months from when the first sketch is done until the product reaches shelves.

Each frame is handmade and must go through a rigorous 29-step process before it is made available to the buying public.

But starting as they mean to go on, every design is born at Fleye’s residence outside the Danish capital Copenhagen in the brand’s historic 19th century studio space designed by German architect Hetsch Barfredshøj.

Estø says while the beautiful manor and its “idyllic” location help with inspiration, she feels at her most creative when ever she has time to stop and tap into it.

“When I am travelling, many best sellers are made in an aeroplane or when I am waiting for one. I also like to hide at my second house where nobody will disturb [me]. I need to have time to be in the mood and then it goes very smoothly and [comes] easily.”

While most of the brand’s success comes down to its innovation, combined with clever design clearly built into the Fleye DNA, Estø says it’s the brand’s relationship with their end user that makes her most proud.

“When I do trunk shows, I can always find a Fleye frame for a customer that brings out the best in them and highlights their best personal features. I am really proud that we have a portfolio of collections that make this possible.”

Yet receiving both domestic and international recognition Estø says winning awards is not just about being singled out ahead of competitors.

“When international design experts choose to honour our eyewear we are always very grateful for their recognition. I have devoted my heart and soul to these products, so receiving awards such as the iF Product Design Awards (based out of Germany) and the Red Dot honorable mention truly makes me proud.

“Obviously, sales is a prerequisite for Fleye’s existence, but these awards are not about increasing sales. The awards reassure us that we are doing the right thing. We are making eyewear that makes a difference.”

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM:Amber - $870; Le - $447; Loui - $498; Marin - $498; Tofa - $489; Vigga - $459

All Fleye frames are handmade.

Stockists: House of Brands +61 2 9997 5373 www.hobkj.com