English V1.0

Heated Bed Assembly manual

Original

Table of Contents

Introduction & Specification p. 4

A. Preparing the frame. p. 5 B. Mounting the electronics. p. 11 C. Assembling the Z-stage. p. 15 D. Installing the Z-stage & electronics. p. 24 E. Updating the Firmware and Calibration p. 33

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Introduction & Specification

Support We would love to hear from you. We are easy to reach and enjoy answering all your questions. Technical assistance, sales enquiries or general information, we are there for you. Find the information below to contact us.

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Dear customer,

Thank you for purchasing the Heated Bed Upgrade Kit for your Ultimaker Original!

This assembly manual will guide you through the build process step by step. Besides this assembly manual there’s also a brand new user manual available online: www.ultimaker.com/pages/support/manuals

There’s also a wealth of information, tips, tricks and amazing Ultimaker prin-ted objects on our online community forum. Drop by and say hello: www.ultimaker.com/forum

Visit YouMagine for fun projects and free printable models: www.youmagine.com

Happy building and printing and we’ll be in touch!

Team Ultimaker

Technical specification

TemperatureOperating heated buildplate temperature 50 - 100 degrees celsiusPrinting with PLA 65 degrees celsius Printing with ABS 100 degrees celsius

ElectricalAC INPUT 100 - 240 V, Approx. 4 AMPS, 50 - 60 HZ 221 watt max.Power Requirements 24 V DC @ 9.2 AMPS

A. Preparing the frame. Part AmountDrill bit 14mm 1Drill bit 3,2mm 1Handdrill 1Scissors 1(Blue) Tape 1Hex Key Screwdriver 2 1Hex Key Wrench 1.5 1Powerplug Template 1Heated Bed PCB Template 1

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Note: Make sure you have al the parts before you start with the next step.

1. Use the Hex Key Wrench 1.5 to undo the top two screws in the Z-coupling.

2. Unscrew the Top caps (3B) so you can remove the guiding rods. Remember to save all the nuts and bolts

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3. Remove the guiding rods from the frame

4. Lift the bed upwards and tilt it to remove it from the frame.

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5. Remove these 4 screws from the Z-motor and save the screws, you will re-use them to install the new motor

6. Turn the machine on its side and remove the Z-motor

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7. Take the two templates and the tape. You can use any tape you want, just make sure it sticks to the wood.

8. Cut out the Template with the corner shape.

9. Line up the template with the back left corner of the frame and secure it with tape.

10. Take the handdrill and the 14mm drill bit, and drill out the hole. You can use a center-punch to create a nice starting position.

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Note: Make sure no wires are under-neath the spot where you are going to drill.

13. Line up the hole in the template with the hole you just drilled. Tape the template in place.

14. Take the drill and the 3.2mm bit, and drill through the 4 black circles in the tem-plate.

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11. Cut out the Heated Bed PCB Template.

12. Cut out the hole in the tem-plate and fold it on the red line.

B. Mounting the electronics

Part AmountHexagon Spacer 4M3X25mm Screw 4Black 10MM spacer 4M3X10mm Screw 3Heated Bed PCB 1Heated Bed PCB Cover 1Heated bed upgrade power cable 1Heated bed upgrade temperature cable 1Heated bed upgrade switch cable 1

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Note: Make sure you have al the parts before you start with the next step.

16. Put the 4 M3x25mm screws through the holes you just drilled and place the 4 10mm black spacers on the screws.

17. Now put the pcb in place and secure it with the 4 white Hexagon Spacers and screw the 3 M3x 10mm scews in the cornes marked here.

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15. Remove the cover from the electronics and disconnect the fan, this makes the next steps easier and

20. On the Mainboard screw open the screwterminal mar-ked Hot Bed. Now insert the stripped side of the Red/black cable as shown in the picture and screw down tight.

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18. Take the 3 Cables that came with the Heated Bed Up-grade kit and take the one with just the Red and Black cable.

Note: make sure RED CABLE is inser-ted in the LEFT side of the terminal. Also screw the terminal down firmly

19. Insert the cable in the con-nector marked switch (J4).

22. Now take the Last cable and connect it to the Temp connector on the PCB (J1). Attach the other side to the Temp3 connector on the ulti-maker electronics board.

23. Loop all the cables through the velcro strip near the ultimaker logo.

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21. Connect the power cable to the connector marked 19V (J6) and plug the other side into the ultimaker electronics board.

C. Assembling the Z-stage.Part AmountTable Spring D2150 3Base Plate 1Glass 1Heated Bed PCB 1Z-motor With Trapezoidal Lead Screw 1Square Flanged Linear Bearing 2Heated Bed Cable 1Z-Lead Nut 1M3x8 2M3x10 4M3x12 6M3x14 4M3 Locknut 4M3 Nut 10Countersunk M3x8 A2 4Countersunk M3x20 A2 3M4x10 8Heated Bed Cable Clip 1Glass Retainer clips 4 Knurled Nut Platform 3Washer M6 3Key Wrench T2.5 1 Pliers or M3 wrench 1Wooden Z-stage parts 5Copper Grease 1

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Note: Make sure you have al the parts before you start with the next step.

24. Take the Heated Bed PCB and turn it upside down. Place the connector facing towards you. The two holes on the right are for the thicker gray cables. These supply power to the heated bed.

25. The two thin black cables connect to the PT100 tempera-ture sensor and go in the two left holes.

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NOTE: MAKE SURE THE-SE CABLES ARE SCREWED DOWN SECURE. TEST THIS BY PULLING ON EACH CA-BLE SEPARATELY. LOOSE CABLES CAN CAUSE THE TERMINAL TO SHORT OR

GET VERY HOT.

28. Repeat this step for the left back side.

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26. Take 2 Glass Retainer clips, 4 countersunk m3x8 screws and 4 m3 locknuts.

27. Use the m3x8 counters-unk screws with the locknuts to secure the glass retainer clips on the rear of the heated bed.

30. Use the M4x10 bolts to secure the bearings. You will need the T2,5 Hex key for this. Don’t tighten yet.

Note: Don’t screw the bolts down all the way. They need to be able to move in order to center them on the guiding rods later.

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29. Take the Base plate, two bearings and the 8 M4x10 bolts. Position the plate as shown in the picture below, and place the two bearings over the holes.

31. Take the Knurled Nut Plat-form, springs, M6 washers and the countersunk M3x20mm screws.

33. Do this for all the washers and place the thumbscrews through the apropriate holes in the baseplate.

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32. The M6 washer has a flat and a rounded side. Slide it over the Thumbscrew with the rounded side facing upwards. now apply some coppergrease on the washer

34. Place the springs on top of the thumbscrews sticking through the baseplate, and place the Heated bed on top off the springs.

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35. Take the two remaining glas retainer clips and place one end of them between the spring and the heated bed. Now take the countersunk 20mm screws and screw eve-rything together. Dont fasten these screws too tight.

37. Next take the Z-Lead Nut and place it on the top of the baseplate.

36. Take the heated bed cable clip and two M3x8mm screws and secure the cable into place.

39. Slide in the Glass plate and the heated bed should now look like this.

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38. Now from the bottom of the baseplate use the 4 M3x10mm screws and screw everything tight.

Note: The Z-Lead Nut is screwed onto the Z-motor spindel.

40. Find the 5 wooden parts to assemble the Z-stage Cap. You will also need 4x M3x-14mm, 6x M3x 12mm screws and 10 M3 nuts.

42. Now place the big 6mm piece marked Ultimaker and place it upside down. Next insert the two middle plates

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41. Take the two 4mm middle plates and insert two M3 nuts.

43. Make sure that the middle plate with the notch is lined up with the notch in the 6mm plate

44. Bend the 6mm plate over the middle plates and secure it in place with 4 M3X14mm screws.

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45. Now place the two sides on the cap. Make sure that the piece with the protruding part is on the left side of the cap, away from the notch.

45a. secure both sides with 6x M3x12 screws and 6x M3 nuts

D. Installing the Z-stage & electronics.

Part AmountZ-stage Cap assembly 1Z-stage assembly 1M3x12mm 2M3 Nuts 2Heated Bed PCB cover 1Part 3B+ M3 screws and nuts 2Z-limit switch 1Green axle grease 1Powersupply + Cable 1

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Note: Make sure you have al the parts before you start with the next step.

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46. Unscrew the Top Z-stop and unplug the cable in the electronics board.

47. First guide the cable of the new end-switch through the cableduct and plug it back into electronics board. Then screw in the bolts but don’t tighten them yet.

47a. Place back the Rod caps at the bottom side.

Note: For eazy access to the cable loosen the Y-motor screws a little bit.

49. Put the rods through the Z-cap and move the cap to the top of the frame. Secure it the-re with some tape so it doesn’t get in the way.

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48. Place the guiding rods halfway back into the frame.

47b. Lock them in place with nuts

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50. Now place the Z-stage in the frame, guide the rods through the bearings, and push them all the way down into the slots in the bottomplate.

51. Take the Z-motor and insert it through the hole in the bot-tom of the frame.

52. Grease up the Z-stage and make sure the axle goes through the lead nut.

55. Now grab the heated bed in the back where the spring is positioned and move it all the way up and down. This is so the bearing can allign itself.

56. Now repeat steps 54 and 55 for each of the 8 bolts on the bearings, alternating between the left and right be-aring. This is to make sure they are aligned correctly. If the Bed is aligned correctly. it should move up and down without much effort

54. Take the 2,5 Hex key and tighten one of the 8 bolts on the bearing.

53. Secure the motor with the 4 screws you have saved from the previous motor.

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57. Guide the Heated bed cable through the cable duct in the back left corner of the machine. Leave some room for the cable to move up and down with the bed

Note: Note: tape the cable ends together to guide it through the cableduct more easily.

58. Remove the tape from the z-cap and place it over the bearings on the bed. Insert the 2 M3 nuts in the two slots and screw it in place with 2 M3x-12mm bolts underneath the baseplate.

59. Put the two top caps (3B) back in position and secure them.

60. Next we will connect the heated bed to the pcb. Con-nect the heated bed connector to the terminal marked PT100 (J3)

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61. Now place the two grey wires in the screw terminal and screw them down tight.

61a. Now plug it into the slot of the PT100 slot of the heated bed electronic board.

61b. Now plug the heated bed heat into heated bed electronic board.

NOTE: MAKE SURE THESE CABLES ARE SCREWED DOWN THIGHT! Test this by pulling on each cable separately. LOOSE CABLES CAN CAUSE THE TER-MINAL TO SHORT OR GET VERY HOT.

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63. Connect the new Z-motor connector to the electronics board.

64. Reconnect the cooling fan and fit the electronics cover back into place.

62. Place the wooden PCB guard over the Heated bed PCB.

65. Hook up the new Po-wersupply to the Heated Bed PCB.

66. You are finished upgrading your machine. The next step is to install new firmware to enable your brand new heated bed!

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Notice: If you are using the Ultimaker Heated Bed upgrade with the dual extrusion kit. You have to use the new powersupply for heating the Bed, and the old powersupply for the ho-tends. if you don’t use both powersupplys the machine might shut down because of

lack of power.

E. Updating the Firmware and Calibration.

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Part AmountUSB cable 1Latest cura installed on a computer 1

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67. Start the latest version of Cura, Go to Machine -> Machine settings

Then press add Machine. You will be presented with this screen.

Make sure USB cable is connected between the printer and the computer running Cura.

70. Upgrade the firmware. This step is important because it activates the Heated bed functions in the Marlin firmware.

68. Select Ultimaker Original and press next. 71. Run the machine checks to see if everything is installed propperly.

69. Select the upgrade parts that you installed. 72. Run the Bed leveling wizzard. First you need to roughly set the distance of the Z-stop.

Use the Up/Down buttons to position the bed upto the nozzle. Then screw the Z-stop into place.

Press Resume and calibrate the bed with the 3 thumb screws.

Now the wizard will print a couple of squaresCheck if the lines of the square are spaced evenly next to each other.

75. By turning the knob you can move the bed up or down. Move the bed up so it’s touching the nozzle. Then move the Z-switch doown untli you hear a click. Now tighten down the Z-switch.

76. Now go to Prepare -> Auto home. This Homes the head and the platform to the end-stops. Now check the calibra-tion of the bed by moving the head in the patern shown in the picture. The points where you calibrate should be as close to the thumbscrews as you can get. A piece of paper can help you get the correct distance by sliding it between the glass and the nozzle at each point.

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73. Press down on the button of the ulticontroller to go into the menu. Go to prepare -> Move Z.

Note. This is a way how to calibrate the bed using the ulticontroller.

Notice: If you are using the Ultimaker Heated Bed upgrade with the dual extrusion kit. You have to use the new powersupply for heating the Bed, and the old powersupply for the hotends. if you don’t use both powersupplys the machine might shut down because of lack of power.

Notes:

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