Upper Blue Mountains Bush Walking Club Greater Blue Mountains National Park – Newnes Plateau – Nayook Creek Canyon and Deep Pass Slots- 4th January 2021-Track Notes

Title

Nayook Creek Canyon and Deep Pass Slots

Date

Monday 4 January 2021

Leader

Brian Fox

Co Leader

John Cooper

Maps etc

NSW Department of Lands topographic Map, 1:25000, Rock Hill, 8931-2N. Second edition, GPS setting WGS 84.

Walk description and route

Road access not suitable for conventional vehicles. A short walk in distance less than 5km but all on track. Up there as one of the best iconic water walks.

Star rating and Membership qualifying status

3MX

Gear issues

First aid kit, 1 litre of water, morning tea and lunch

Numbers

Max 10,

Meeting point

8:30am at Clarence, Zig Zag Railway, off Bells Line of Road and start of the Glowworm Tunnel Road. (That is leaving at 8:30am) Bungleboori at 9am

Transport

Club Cars

Close of Bookings

Contact leader

Enquiries

Brian Fox

brianandelaine@aapt.net.au

The Party

Brian Fox, leader, John Cooper, co-leader, Adam Howard, Jasmine Howard, April Howard, William Howard, David Alley, John Fox, Michael Keats, Yidan Saladine, Scott Marshall John Anderson, Keith Maxwell, Rosemary Maxwell and Marcia Kaye, 15.

The Weather

Total cloud cover, warm and humid. Threatening a storm which happened after the walk. Temperature range 18 to 23 degrees C.

Background Notes.

1 Place Names

Nayook Creek is a perennial creek that has its headwaters on the eastern side of the junction of Deep Pass Trail and Mount Cameron Trail. It flows north east, east and south east for about 34km into the Wollangambe River. Nayook is the Aboriginal word for Cockatoo, and this creek rises about 1km east of Cockatoo Hill Trig Station. Ref: Bunce, Daniel & Graeme, Butler. The Australian Race, Lower Yarra. A History of the Buln Shire, 1979. Possibly named by Lt. Col. Hugh Powel Gough Clews, known as ‘The Major’ (1890-1980), Australian Survey Corps. He named Dinner Creek, which is near the headwaters of Nayook Creek and Clews Ridge and is midway and on the north side of Nayook Creek. Clews had surveyed the Wollangambe one inch to the mile topographical map in the early 1930s. Rock Hill Topo Map, headwaters GR 459 064, junction GR 676 040. See Book 3, Walk 3.6 & Book 4, walk 4.19, 4.26 & 4.28A, for detailed Track Notes.

Plot of the walk overlaid on a topographic map..Recorded and prepared by John Cooper

Deep Pass is a saddle, about 300m west of Mount Norris on the western end of Railmotor Ridge. Access is via Glowworm Tunnel Road, Eastern Boundary Road and Deep Pass Trail. Deep Pass is shown on the map Parish of Rock Hill, 1st edition, 1882. Rock Hill Topo Map, GR 496 069. Deep Pass was assigned as a Rural Place by the Geographical Names Board on 11th July 1997. See Book 4, Walk 4.19, 4.23, 4.25 & 4.28A, for detailed Track Notes.

2 Extract from Track Notes Friday 16th November 2007

Deep Pass Canyon (a.k.a. Nayook Canyon) never disappoints and today was no exception. The pools were clear and the air very warm. Tom Brennan stripped down and went swimming at the lower pool. He tested the bottom and confirmed the pool is about 3m deep with a layer of leaves and twigs on the bottom. The water was cool, and Tom did not stay in for long. We moved progressively up the canyon savouring each vista as it unfolded. No yabbies were seen but there were many small fish, the largest perhaps 10cms long.

Tom Brennan climbing above the pool in Nayook Creek. Note the installed rope. Photo: Michael Keats, 2007

A very fine frog crossed our way of route in the canyon. From photos and comparing them to Frog Index pictures and descriptions, it is most likely to be the Blue Mountains Tree Frog, Litoria citropa. A very handsome frog some 60mm in length with bright green markings and purple highlights under the rear legs.

On a nice warm rock in the canyon decided to have an early lunch. There was a sunny pool, so Jane and I decided to at least get wet and cool down. It was just a bit cooler than we expected. Jane tested another pool which was deeper than her height and decidedly cooler again. Lunch was very welcome.

As we finished lunch clouds began to gather. As we resumed walking the first spots of rain began to fall and then cleared. We made our way upstream and were soon at the once infamous pool where many used to slip in for an unexpected dip. No problems today. The commercial companies who bring in groups have fixed spikes and ropes. Takes the fun out of it a bit…

Having negotiated this Dave then mentioned that there appeared to be an exit point immediately prior to the pool. A number of us retraced our steps to check it out. There is a log up against a small cliff that would allow an exit to be made in the event that the suspended log section in the creek was washed away or if there was an unexpected rise in Nayook Creek. Worth noting for future reference.

Graham Conden, about to descend the rope. Tom Brennan after his swim. Photo: Michael Keats 2007.

After a few minutes we passed the traditional exit point and began exploring the upper reaches of Nayook Creek. At the same time the clouds regrouped and the rain although light, became consistent. This did wonders for the intensity of colours. Stands of red Waratahs and purple Match Heads (Comesperma ericinum) looked great against lush green ferns.

The creek above the traditional exit, GR 488 073, has a few nice canyon sections and some impressive cliff lines. Progress was variable. Initially walking in the creek was easy with two nice tight bends where canyon-like features persist. After this and for the most part there was a sort of track – possibly made by wombats going to drink. In other spots dense regrowth after the last major fire made the going a bit of a challenge. Regular checking with the map was needed to make sure that we did not go up blind valleys.

Tom Breenan swimming in the pool at th ebas eof Nayook Creek Falls. Photo: Michael Keats, 2007.

Below, Marcia surrounde dby ferns in Nayook Canyon

Photo: Brian Fox

John Amdersonon hand to assist Marcia Kaye on th eropes to the upper section of Nayook Canyon. Photo: Brian Fox.

John Fox in a slot within Deep Pass. Photo: Brian Fox.

Marcia swimming. Photo: Yidan Saladine.

Marcia after her swim. Left to right John C, Rose, Brian, Dave. Marcia. John F, Jasmin, Adam and April. Photo: John Anderson.

Track Notes 040121

The drive in to Bungleboori from Clarence was an eye-opener. The old sand mining leases along the link road have been re opened, and hectares of former wonderful country is now an industrial wasteland. The authorities seem determined to desecrate the Newnes Plateau.

Driving on from Bungleboori there was some good news – the 2019 fires have virtullay killed all Pinus radiata regrowth. Wild horses obdserved years ago have multipied. They should be removed urgently.

Feral horses at Bungleboori. Photo: Yidan Saladine

At Bungleboori the group assembled. We welcomed part of Brian’s family including son in law Adam and his three children, Jasmin, April and William. So good to see some young people join our expeditions. After introductions Brian advised that the walk as advertised would be deferred. The full beauty of the River Caves requires a brilliant sunny day. That was simply not going to happen today.

This was a 2WD road to Deep Pass. Front to rear, Scott, Keith, Dave and others. Photo: Yidan Saladine

Plan B was an equal delight - a trip into Nayook Canyon and waterfall. In convoy we then

drove to the car parking area above Deep Pass, GR 487 077, (0931). After the briefing, we set off down the former road to Deep Pass. Jasmin, April and William were out of sight after two minutes. Their energy boundless. In the 1960s this road was still trafficable by 2WD vehicles. Today even a tank would have difficulty. Some scoured out drops exceed 500mm. In parts the road is now a dry creek bed, and great care was needed to negotiate areas of exposed clay.

On the track to Nayook Creek Falls. Photo: Yidan Saladine

At the bottom of the road is the flat area which used to be a potato paddock. GOS book 7, page 319 has a picture of the ploughed field, the Norris Hut and a Standard Vanguard car parked outside. See notes below. Today the level area has been taken over by post fire regrowth, in places more than head high.

John C in the Nayook Creek canyon. Photo: Yidan SaladineJohn Norris Hut, Deep Pass

The flat grassy area at Deep Pass has always intrigued, as it is anomalous in the context of the surrounding country. Wild rumours abound as to who, how, why, where and when all this occurred. These ranged from odd ball hermits to drug growing.

Sometimes, the circulation of track notes with questions begging yields amazing results. What follows is extracted from track notes dated 13th July 2012:

“The track, formerly part of the access road to John Norris’ hut[footnoteRef:1], is still definable and leads to the remains of the sandstone chimney. Photos were taken for the record. [1: John Norris held the lease at Deep Pass in 1960. John had built a hut within the clearing and used the area to grow potatoes, a vegetable crop that would keep in the ground until needed. Ref: Correspondence with Wilf Hilder, 19th December 2009. Special Lease, Norris LB60/7.]

It would be very nice to have a picture of this hut and capture that moment in history when this area was worked as a farm. It is quite remarkable how one incident can cascade into something very much larger. In this instance, the trigger point was an email from Stephen Imrie attaching a remarkable colour image of the Norris Hut in Deep Pass, GR 495 077. The image, from the late Wilf Hilder collection, was found by Stephen working his way through thousands of Wilf’s old colour slides. It is a very useful image. It shows the hut in its heyday with a 2WD motor vehicle parked outside and all the surrounding area freshly ploughed for a crop, possibly potatoes. The vehicle, we think, due to its distinctive rear profile, is a Standard Vanguard (1947 –1963). The picture confirms that at least one of the roads down into Deep Pass was easily trafficable to 2WD vehicles, and that it was wide enough for a tractor as well. By interpolation, the current grassed area, which appears to be a type of couch grass, could well have been introduced as seed on the tractor.”

William in action. Photo: Yidan Saladine

Today we would visit this area after exiting Nayook Creek Canyon, and so at 0950, GR 493 078, we left the main track to follow a well-used pad that follows the course of Nayook Creek upstream to the waterfall and the lower canyon. The 2020-21 season has been bountiful after the devastation of 2019. Grasses and perennial herbs have reached new levels of lushness which contrasts with the blackened trunks of former trees. Dominant in the understorey is Lomatia silaifolia, its creamy white inflorescence contrasting strongly with the intense green and black.

The walk up Nayook Creek is well trodden and slippery to boot. Looking at pictures from trips in 2007 and 2008, we just walked in the water. Today we tried to keep dry. I am not sure why. The ever-constricting cliffs of Nayook Canon provide an exceptional environment for ferns, particularly the Soft Tree Fern, Dicksonia antartica and the King Fern, Todea barbara.

A vast variety of epiphytes and mosses cascades over rocks, and caves and slots abound, making this a truly special place. Many small waterfalls and generally damp conditions added to the sense of connection with nature. At 1005, GR 492 074, we arrived at the base of the lower waterfall. Under the waterfall is a pool about 3m deep. To proceed further from this point requires effort to negotiate fixed ropes, and then further upstream some limpet like attachement to the rock walls to avoid total immersion. Not on the agenda today.

At the pool Marcia went for a swim and pronounced the water temperature pleasant. No one else went in. While Brian announced morning tea (1011), a number of the party tested the old ropes and went upstream a short distance. The youngsters revelled in the challenge. Included are some photos from 2007 when I was the agile cameraman.

The former potato paddock at Deep Pass. Photo: Yidan Saladine

After realising that there was shortage of dry places to sit, it was decided to head back downstream to a cave at GR 493 074. Here there was room for everone to spread out and enjoy the ambience of the canyon. At 1057 we had exited the canyon and made it back to the track junction at Deep Pass. Here I handed over the notebook and pencil to John Anderson to record the visit to the Mini Standley Chasm[footnoteRef:2] [2: Mini Standley Chasm refers to the long, deep, narrow crevice at Deep Pass. Named by Graham Condon (member of The Bush Club). When he visited Deep Pass on 15th December 2004, he had just returned from Standley Chasm, Alice Springs and reflected on the similarity of the two. However, he was not the first to record this likeness. Daniel, G & Lord, S. Bushwalks in the Sydney Region, 1993, Vol. 2; p. 62, records this, "a miniature Standley chasm.” Also, simple known as, The Slot. Ref: Olive Noble’s track notes from Woody Pear Walking Group, November 1993. Rock Hill Topo Map, GR 496 078. See Book 4, Walk 4.19, for detailed Track Notes.

]

After following the track, we arrived at what is now the Deep Pass Camping area, 1100, GR 494 078.

Brian and John climbing up to the slots entry. Photo: Yidan Saladine

John C and Marcias in the slot. Photo: Yidan Saladine.

We crossed the Deep Pass Camping area and made creek crossings to reach the cliff line where there is a triangular shaped passage through large boulders on the left hand side that leads into the slot complex.

The passage way is about 40m long and about .5 of a metre wide. A great “T” intersection is always a showstopper. We took the right hand slot. A couple of squeeze holes provided a ‘caving experience’. We exited at GR 496 7834, at 1135. Yidan called it a playground.

The group returned to the camping ground area at 1145. At 1148, a visit was made to inspect the site of the Norris hut, 5m away on the left hand side of the track, GR 494 076

At 1200, we climbed a trackside pagoda, GR 492 083, that under normal conditions provides great views of the cliffs in Deep Pass and a good spot for lunch. The views are different now with just a green tinge on otherwise bare rocks.

By 1240, we had returned to the cars. Rolling thunder indicated that the forecasted storm was not far away.

On the return trip a stop was made at the sand mine leases. The destruction is only just beginning with many hectares already bulldozed ready for massive exploitation. As we observed, in a few years time, these vast craters will become the resting place for Sydney’s ever growing garbage.

Moving around in the slots is not all level walking. Photo: Yidan Saladine

New signage at Deep Pass. The Wiradjuri name will neve rcatch on. It is too difficult to pronounce. Photo: Yidan Saladine

The chimney foundations is all that remains of the Norrias Hut. Photo: Yidan Saladine

Michael Keats, Bushexplorers

UBMBWC Nayook Creek Canyon and Deep Pass 040121/MK

Above and below. The reactivated sand mine leases on Newnes Plateau. Photos: Yidan Saladine

2

1

Upper Blue Mountains Bush Walking Club

Greater Blue Mountains National Park

–

Newnes Plateau

–

Nayook Creek Canyon and Deep Pass Slots

-

4

th

January 2021

-

Track Notes

Title

Nayook Creek Canyon and Deep Pass Slots

Date

Monday 4 January 2021

Leader

Brian

Fox

Co Leader

John Cooper

Maps etc

NSW Department of Lands topographic Map, 1:25000,

Rock

Hill,

8931

-

2N

.

Second

edition, GPS setting WGS 84.

Walk description and

route

Road access not suitable for conventional vehicles. A short walk

in di

stance less than 5km but all

on

track. Up there as one of the

best iconic water walks.

Star rating and

Membership

qualifying status

3MX

Gear issues

First aid kit, 1 litre of water, morning tea and lunch

Numbers

Max 10,

Meeting point

8:30am at

Clarence, Zig Zag Railway, off Bells Line of Road and

start of the Glowworm Tunnel Road. (That is leaving at 8:30am)

Bungleboori at 9am

Transport

Club Cars

Close of Bookings

Contact leader

Enquiries

Brian Fox

brianandelaine@aapt.net.au

The Party

Brian Fox, leader, John Cooper, co

-

leader,

Adam

Howard,

Jasmine

Howard,

April

Howard,

William

Howard,

David Alley

,

John Fox, Mi

chael

Keats, Yidan Saladine, Scott

M

ars

hall

John Anderson

,

Keith

Maxwell,

Rosemary Maxwell

and

Marcia Kaye, 15.

The Weather

Total cloud cover, warm and humid. Threatening a storm which happened after the walk.

Temperature range 18 to 23 degrees C.

Background Notes.

1

Place Names

Nayook Creek

is a perennial creek that has its headwaters on the eastern side of the junction

of Deep Pass Trail and Mount Cameron Trail. It flows

north east

, east and

south east

for

about 34km into the Wollangambe River.

Nayook is the Aboriginal word for Cockatoo, and

this creek

rises about 1km east of Cockatoo Hill Trig Station. Ref: Bunce, Daniel & Graeme,

1

Upper Blue Mountains Bush Walking Club

Greater Blue Mountains National Park – Newnes Plateau –

Nayook Creek Canyon and Deep Pass Slots- 4

th

January 2021-Track Notes

Title Nayook Creek Canyon and Deep Pass Slots

Date Monday 4 January 2021

Leader Brian Fox

Co Leader John Cooper

Maps etc NSW Department of Lands topographic Map, 1:25000, Rock

Hill, 8931-2N. Second edition, GPS setting WGS 84.

Walk description and

route

Road access not suitable for conventional vehicles. A short walk

in distance less than 5km but all on track. Up there as one of the

best iconic water walks.

Star rating and

Membership

qualifying status

3MX

Gear issues First aid kit, 1 litre of water, morning tea and lunch

Numbers Max 10,

Meeting point 8:30am at Clarence, Zig Zag Railway, off Bells Line of Road and

start of the Glowworm Tunnel Road. (That is leaving at 8:30am)

Bungleboori at 9am

Transport Club Cars

Close of Bookings Contact leader

Enquiries Brian Fox

brianandelaine@aapt.net.au

The Party

Brian Fox, leader, John Cooper, co-leader, Adam Howard, Jasmine Howard, April Howard,

William Howard, David Alley, John Fox, Michael Keats, Yidan Saladine, Scott Marshall

John Anderson, Keith Maxwell, Rosemary Maxwell and Marcia Kaye, 15.

The Weather

Total cloud cover, warm and humid. Threatening a storm which happened after the walk.

Temperature range 18 to 23 degrees C.

Background Notes.

1 Place Names

Nayook Creek is a perennial creek that has its headwaters on the eastern side of the junction

of Deep Pass Trail and Mount Cameron Trail. It flows north east, east and south east for

about 34km into the Wollangambe River. Nayook is the Aboriginal word for Cockatoo, and

this creek rises about 1km east of Cockatoo Hill Trig Station. Ref: Bunce, Daniel & Graeme,