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FINAL TECHNICAL REPORT Prepared for the Office of Naval Research, Coastal Geosciences Program (Code 321CG) EuroSTRATAFORM Research Program Program Officer: Thomas Drake Upscaling Simple Models for Energetic Shelf Sediment Transport Period of Performance: 15 October 2002 to 30 September 2004 Award Number: N00014-03-1-0144 Principle Investigator: Carl T. Friedrichs Co-Investigators: Malcolm E. Scully and L. Donelson Wright School of Marine Science, Virginia Institute of Marine Science The College of William and Mary, Gloucester Point, VA 23062-1346 phone: (804) 684-7303 fax: (804) 684-7250 email: [email protected] web: www.vims.edu/~cfried 1 March 2005 VIMS Technical Report CHSD-2005-01
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FINAL TECHNICAL REPORT

Prepared for the

Office of Naval Research, Coastal Geosciences Program (Code 321CG)

EuroSTRATAFORM Research Program

Program Officer: Thomas Drake

Upscaling Simple Models for Energetic Shelf Sediment Transport

Period of Performance: 15 October 2002 to 30 September 2004

Award Number: N00014-03-1-0144

Principle Investigator: Carl T. Friedrichs

Co-Investigators: Malcolm E. Scully and L. Donelson Wright

School of Marine Science, Virginia Institute of Marine Science

The College of William and Mary, Gloucester Point, VA 23062-1346

phone: (804) 684-7303 fax: (804) 684-7250

email: [email protected] web: www.vims.edu/~cfried

1 March 2005

VIMS Technical Report CHSD-2005-01

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Upscaling Simple Models for Energetic Shelf Sediment Transport

Carl T. Friedrichs, Malcolm E. Scully and L. Donelson Wright

School of Marine Science, Virginia Institute of Marine ScienceThe College of William and Mary, Gloucester Point, VA 23062-1346phone: (804) 684-7303 fax: (804) 684-7250 email: [email protected]

Award Number: N00014-03-1-0144http://www.vims.edu/~cfried/Euro

ABSTRACT

Models for wave-supported fluid muds and resulting gravity flows were applied to sediment transportand deposition at time scales ranging from individual wave events to steady-state clinoforms. Thismodeling was motivated by recent field results demonstrating that gravity-driven flux of suspendedmud is important on shelves off high load rivers. The modeling approach, which limits sediment loadvia a critical Richardson number, is applicable to fine sediment transport near river mouths whereverwave energy is available to move abundant sediment offshore during floods. To provide guidance inupscaling realistic turbulence closure models under energetic sediment transport conditions, numericalmodel simulations were run for sediment-stratified bottom boundary layers using the 1-D GeneralOcean Turbulence Model. At the other extreme time-scale, equilibrium profiles for riverine shelveswere derived analytically by balancing the supply of sediment from the river at the coast and thedownslope bypassing capacity of sediment to deep water within wave-supported turbid near-bedlayers. The equilibrium model results are consistent with several riverine shelf profiles around theworld. The equilibrium profile is predicted to be a function of wave climate and riverine sedimentsupply only, with deeper and broader profiles associated with decreasing sediment supply, increasingwave height and/or increasing wave period. At intermediate time-scales, a time-stepping version of thegravity flow model was able to account for the majority of the fall 2000 flood deposit mapped byEuroSTRATAFORM investigators in the vicinity of the Po subaqueous delta and also for the rate ofdelta progradation observed off the dominant Pila outlet of the Po over the last 150 years. Modelresults predict that convergence of down-slope sediment transport by wave-supported gravity flowsincreases with bed slope but decreases with slope gradient, such that greatest deposition occurs nearwhere steep slopes first stop increasing with distance offshore.

LONG-TERM GOALS

In the context of EuroSTRATAFORM, the long-term goal of this project was to contribute towardsimultaneously understanding (i) short term oceanic processes that erode, transport and depositsediment in the continental margin system and (ii) the creation of the preserved stratigraphicarchitecture, seafloor morphology and sediment facies on continental margins. In order for models atsuch disparate time-scales to interact, they must communicate through expressions which upscale theunderlying physical processes. Under Modeling Task D5, the EuroSTRATAFORM white paperspecifically states: “Coherent techniques will be developed for upscaling individual processes/eventsinto long-term stratigraphic-architecture and seascape-evolution models.”

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Another conclusion common to recent ONR Coastal Geosciences programs is recognition of thedominant role played by episodic, high energy events in driving both sediment transport and bedformation. During STRATAFORM, the majority of across-shelf sediment flux was found to beassociated with a few major flood and storm events occurring over just one or two weeks every fewyears. In its section on modeling, the EuroSTRATAFORM white paper similarly states, “Of specialconcern will be important events of strata formation (e.g., debris flows, extreme floods) that aredifficult to observe.” Thus another long-term goal of this “upscaling” project was to specificallyunderstand the role of energetic sediment transport in depositing sediment on margins and in shapingmorphology.

OBJECTIVES

The objectives of this project included (1) investigating the role of high energy sediment gravity flowsin shelf deposition at multiple time-scales, and (2) investigating the role of these flows in shelfdeposition at diverse spatial scales and in diverse settings world-wide.

To help address these objectives at the shortest time- and space-scales, we applied a wave-resolving,high vertical resolution numerical model with advanced turbulence closure to simulate energeticsediment suspensions. The consistency of the internal structure revealed by these simulations and thebulk formulations applied in our wave-averaged, depth-integrated analytical approach were examined.Scales were also being bridged from wave-averaged (or “burst-averaged”) quasi-steady conditions at asingle location to deposition through whole flood seasons distributed over entire subaqueous deltas.An important question was whether bulk formulations which work over a period of hours also workover periods of weeks to months. Finally, analytical and simple numerical approaches were used toupscale these same relations for scenarios where accretion feeds back to impact hydrodynamics. Thelargest scales compare diverse, globally distributed environments and can incorporate subsidence,tectonism and changes in sea level.

APPROACH

Seconds to hours: To provide guidance in upscaling realistic turbulence closure models under energeticsediment transport conditions, we ran numerical model simulations of sediment-stratified bottomboundary layers using the 1-D General Ocean Turbulence Model (GOTM, Burchard, 2002). GOTMis an open source, FORTRAN-based, two-equation (k-epsilon) turbulence closure model which usesthe most recent formulations for stability functions shown to perform well in the presence of strongthermohaline stratification. We added suspended sediment to this model and investigated modelbehavior as one approaches the limit of critical sediment-induced stratification (Scully and Friedrichs,2003). We examineded the parameter space of varying sediment settling velocity (ws) from hinderedsettling in fluid mud (ws < 0.1 mm/s) to sand (ws > 10 mm/s) and the wave period of the bottomboundary layer from storm waves (order 10 s) to tides (order 10 hours). We compared thesesimulations to available field and laboratory data of very high concentration fluid mud layers withinmomentum deficit layers under waves (e.g., Eel shelf, Traykovski et al., 2000) and tides (e.g., Amazonshelf, Trowbridge and Kineke, 1994) and to critically stratified constant stress layers of sand underwaves (e.g., Hanover Wave Flume, Dohmen-Janssen and Hanes, 2002) and of flocculated mud undertides (e.g., York River, Friedrichs et al., 2000).

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Hours to months: The analytical relations governing a wave-supported sediment gravity flow in awave-averaged, vertically-integrated sense are (Wright et al., 2001; Scully et al., 2002):

α g s C ρs-1 = cd |u| ug, Ri = g s C ρs

-1 |u|-2 (1, 2)

In Eqs. (1) and (2), α is the sine of the bed slope, g is the acceleration of gravity, ρs is the density ofsiliceous sediment and s is its submerged weight relative to sea water, C is the depth-integrated massconcentration of suspended sediment within the wave boundary layer, cd is the bottom drag coefficient,and Ri is the gradient Richardson number. The key velocities associated with Eqs. (1,2) are thedownslope velocity of the gravity current (ug), the rms amplitude of wave orbital velocity (uw) and theabsolute amplitude of the instantaneous velocity, |u| ≈ (uw

2 + ug2)1/2, all evaluated near the top of the

wave boundary layer.

By combining (1) and (2), one can solve explicitly for ug and C and, thus, for the downslope sedimenttransport rate, Qg = ugC, and the deposition rate, D = - dQg/dx. It is relatively straightforward to forcethese equations with observed wave heights and river discharge to predict gravity flow speed,concentration and deposition over observed bathymetry for critically stratified conditions when Ri =Ric. Assuming an unlimited supply of easily suspended sediment, it is assumed that sediment willcontinue to be suspended until Ri approaches Ric ≈ 0.25. If Ri exceeds Ric, then turbulence will shutdown, and sediment will settle back out of the water column until Ri equals Ric once more. This hasbeen our approach in modeling gravity flows over hours to entire flood seasons for STRATAFORMand EuroSTRATAFORM field sites (Wright et al., 2001; Scully et al., 2002, 2003; Scully andFriedrichs, 2004; Friedrichs and Scully, 2004b,c).

Years to centuries: We took two approaches in upscaling from a season to decades and beyond. Thefirst approach used predicted deposition (plus any appropriate shifts in base level or sea level) tochange the bathymetry and, thus, the hydrodynamics. This quasi-numerical, long time-scale approachfollowed the same basic philosophy as the hours-to-months simulation, but used annual representativewave heights and discharge, and bathymetric feedback affected subsequent hydrodynamics (Friedrichsand Scully, 2004a,b.c). Our other long time-scale approach looked for equilibrium analytical solutionsto bathymetric profiles consistent with the physics of wave-supported gravity flows. One option inthis regard was to define an equilibrium shelf profile as that which causes gravity flows to be juststrong enough to carry the riverine sediment supply into deep water without any net deposition(Friedrichs and Wright, 2004). Conceptually, this applies well to a situation where a delta hasprograded and steepened to the point that the wave-supported gravity flows now just bypass theshoreward, concave downward portion of the delta, producing no further deposition in this region.Another option was to define as equilibrium a sigmoidal clinoform or subaqueous delta with a fixedprofile which progrades across a flat paleo-shelf at a constant rate (Friedrichs and Scully, 2004a,b).These analytical solutions for shelf profiles employ additional continuity-related equilibrium conditionsbeyond Eqs. (1)-(2).

WORK COMPLETED

In FY03 and FY04 we continued the process of publishing our related work from the ONRSTRATAFORM project (Wright et al., 2002; Scully et al., 2003; Hill et al., 2004; Parsons et al., 2004;Souza and Friedrichs, 2005). With respect to time scales of seconds to hours, in FY03 we successfully

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translated the GOTM model from FORTRAN into MatLab and completed initial numericalexperiments into energetic, critically stratified bottom boundary layers (Scully and Friedrichs, 2003).With respect to time scales of years to centuries, in FY03 we made significant progress in upscaling ouranalytical models to derive relations for the landward portion of equilibrium clinoforms and subaqueousdeltas (Figure 1) (Friedrichs and Wright, 2003a,b, 2004).

Our research efforts in FY2004 focused mainly on the time scales of hours and longer. Over scales ofhours to months, we applied Eqs. (1)-(2) to seasonal flood deposition in the region of the Posubaqueous delta (Figure 2) (Scully and Friedrichs, 2004; Friedrichs and Scully, 2004b,c). Over scalesof years to a century, we applied the same equations to the evolution the Po delta since the mid-1800’sacceleration in progradation of the Pila distributary (Figure 3) (Friedrichs and Scully, 2004a,b,c). In thecontext of long-term equilibrium shelf profiles, we finished our first comparison of equilibrium shelfprofiles around the world associated with bypassing, wave-supported gravity flows (Friedrichs andWright, 2004; Pratson et al., 2004a,b). We also derived analytical solutions for similarly forcedequilibrium prograding clinoforms and applied the solution to the Po shelf (Friedrichs and Scully,2004a,b).

RESULTS

Our implementation of the GOTM model in pursuit of Objective 1 was encouraging. We successfullytranslated the GOTM code from FORTRAN to MatLab and began numerical experiments includingsediment induced stratification. Our results (Scully and Friedrichs, 2003) suggest that several distincttypes of high energy, high concentration suspensions can be reproduced by the GOTM model with thekey variables being sediment grain size and oscillatory hydrodynamic period. For cases where thesettling time is long compared to the wave period, fluid muds develop up to a sharp lutocline at the topof the oscillatory boundary layer. This first scenario compares favorably to observations of hinderedsettling of fluid muds on the Amazon and Eel shelves. Where the settling time is short compared to theoscillatory period, a critically stratified constant stress layer results, where strong concentrationgradients are present mainly near the bottom of the boundary layer. This second scenario comparesfavorably to observations of sandy sheet flow under waves in the nearshore and to suspensions offlocculated mud under tides in estuaries.

Our FY03 work in pursuit of longer time scale processes (Friedrichs and Wright, 2003a,b, 2004)applied the above relations to solve for the shape of the landward portion of a stable, sedimentbypassing clinoform. The convex upward portion of a subaqueous delta or clinoform subject to wave-supported gravity flows will be at equilibrium if there are no across-shelf gradients in gravity drivenflux and the available river sediment supply matches the capacity of wave-supported gravity flows toremove sediment. In other words, the equilibrium profile requires ug C = Qr , where Qr is the supply ofriverine sediment per unit distance along-shelf. Applying linear wave theory, and eliminating ug, C anduw gives the following relation for equilibrium bathymetric slope:

α {1 - (α Ric cd-1)2}-3/2 = 8 (ωH)-3 (sinh kh)3 Qr s g cd Ric

-2 ρs-1 . (3)

where ω is wave radian frequency, H is rms wave height, and k is wave number. Eq. (3) predicts that theslope of an equilibrium profile dominated by wave-supported gravity flows increases with greaterwater depth and sediment supply and decreases with increasing wave height and wave period (via k)

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(Figure 1a). Equilibrium slope increases with water depth to compensate for the effect of decreasingbottom orbital velocity. Slope increases with sediment supply simply because a greater slope isrequired transport a larger sediment supply offshore. Slope decreases with increased wave periodbecause a greater period decreases the decay of uw with depth. Finally, equilibrium slope decreaseswith increased wave height to compensate for the effect of greater uw. Figure 1b displays equilibriumprofiles predicted by our theory along with a comparison of the theory to the observed depths ofclinoforms at STRATAFORM, EuroSTRATAFORM and other sites. The model offers a first-orderexplanation of the delta-front/shelf profiles that exist off the mouths of the Eel, Waiapu, Po, Rhone andGanges Rivers (Friedrichs and Wright, 2003a,b, 2004).

Our FY04 work (Friedrichs and Scully 2004a,b,c) applied the above relations to the short and long termdeposition in the vicinity of the Po subaqueous delta. Figure 2 displays forcing conditions and flooddeposition as predicted by Eqs. (1)-(2) when applied to the large flood of fall 2000. For the regionencompassing the Po subaqueous delta, the equations governing wave-supported gravity flows wereimplemented in the same manner as that described for the Eel shelf by Scully et al. (2003). Bottomorbital velocity was determined by linear wave theory applied to wave heights observed offshore ofAncona, Italy. Sediment discharge from the Po River before separation into its distributaries wasinitially estimated by applying the rating curve of Syvitski et al. (2004) for a single river channelneglecting random variability (Figure 2a). Sediment input was reduced to 56% of that predicted bySyvitski et al. (2004) and further restricted to the second half of the flood when discharge and wavesoccurred together. The along-shelf distribution of sediment used to represent the various distributariesis indicated by the dashed red line in Figure 2b. Results are consistent with the general distribution ofthe flood layer as mapped by EuroSTRATAFORM investigators and suggest wave-supported gravityflows can account for the majority of the observed deposit. In particular, modeled and observeddeposition both occur in deeper water off the Pila than off the Tolle, and, in both cases, maximumdeposition occurs near the region of maximum bed slope.

Figure 3 displays results of a long-term simulation of subaqueous delta evolution using Eqs. (1)-(2).The simulations mimicked profile evolution off of the Pila and Tolle distributary mouths since the mid1800’s. Each case started with the same linearly sloping initial bathymetry and was subjected to thesame 1 m wave height and the same rate and spatial distribution of subsidence. The only differencewas the rate of sediment input, which was five times larger for the Pila simulation than for the Tollacase. For the Pila case, deposition overwhelmed subsidence, and the subaqueous delta progradedseaward (Figure 3a), reaching a shape and progradation rate very similar to our analytical equilibriumsolution. For the Tolle, in contrast, subsidence overwhelmed deposition, and the shoreward portiondelta receded landward and steepened (Figure 3b). These results are largely consistent with observedevolution of the Po subaqueous delta since the mid-1800’s as reported by Nelson (1970). In the finalyear of the simulation, maximum deposition occurred in notably deeper water off the Pila than off theTolle, similar to the patterns seen in observations and simulations of the fall 2000 flood.

IMPACT/APPLICATIONS

A present limitation in long-term modeling of continental margin evolution is realistic inclusion ofhydrodynamic processes driving shelf deposition. Based on field observations collected over the last20 years, complex wave-averaged currents driven by winds and pressure gradients have been thought tobe mainly responsible for cross-shelf sediment transport and flux convergence on energetic accretionary

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shelves. Unfortunately, it may be exceedingly difficult to predict wind- and pressure-driven near-bedcurrents with sufficient accuracy to produce realistic deposits over geological time-scales. The ONRSTRATAFORM and EuroSTRATAFORM projects, however, have identified a distinctly differentmechanism for across-shelf sediment transport associated with gravity-driven flows of fluid mudwithin the wave boundary layer. Gravity flows within the WBL can be realistically modeled based onknowledge of fine sediment supply, approximate wave height and bathymetry if one assumes that thecritical Richardson number within the WBL determines the maximum capacity of the gravity flow totransport mud. Complex, externally forced mean currents do not appear to play a critical role in thisnewly identified transport mechanism. Thus the analytical model presented here has the potential togreatly reduce the complexity and computational requirements presently limiting our ability to performrealistic long-term simulations of the geologic evolution of many continental margin environments.

TRANSITIONS

Our data on bed stresses and resulting sediment resuspension from earlier years of ourSTRATAFORM project have been made available to others and are being used to verify variousbottom boundary layer and sediment transport models. Our data can easily be accessed via datareports (which include data summaries on diskettes) and via the VIMS STRATAFORM website:http://www.vims.edu/physical/projects/CHSD/projects/ONR/index.html. Published papers by otherswhich have directly utilized VIMS data include Morehead and Syvitski (1999), Ogston et al. (1999,2000), Reed et al. (1999), Zhang et al. (1999), and Fan et al. (2004). Additional papers by non-VIMSauthors incorporating VIMS data are in preparation. Our analytical formulation for sediment flux anddeposition by critically-stratified, gravity flows has already been incorporated into long-termsimulations of margin stratigraphic development by James Syvitski's group (Syvitski et al., 2001,2002). Our analytical approach has also been made available to other modelers, such as Fan, Harris,Niederoda, Reed, Swift, and Traykovski, all of whom are at various stages of incorporating gravityflows into more complex numerical simulations of shelf sedimentation.

REFERENCES

Burchard, H., 2002. Applied turbulence modelling in marine waters. Lecture Notes in Earth Sciences,Vol. 100, Springer, Berlin, 229 pp.

Dohmen-Hanssen, C.M., and D.M. Hanes, 2002. Sheet flow dynamics under monochromaticnonbreaking waves. Journal of Geophysical Research, 107 (C3): 13-1 – 13-21.

Fan, S., D.J.P. Swift, P. Traykovski, S. Bentley, J.C. Borgeld, C.W. Reed, and A.W. Niedoroda, 2004.River flooding, storm resuspension, and event stratigraphy on the northern California shelf:observations compared with simulations. Marine Geology, 210: 17-41.

Friedrichs, C.T., and M.E. Scully, 2004a. Century-scale flow modeling of Po Delta. ONREuroSTRATAFORM Workshop, Keystone, CO, 10-14 July.

Friedrichs, C.T., and M.E. Scully, 2004b. Modeling deposition by wave-supported gravity flows onthe Po River subaqueous delta: from seasonal floods to prograding clinoforms. Sediment Transport and

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Accumulation on Continental Margins: A Tribute to Dr. Richard W. Sternberg, Friday Harbor, WA,17-18 September.

Friedrichs, C.T., and M.E. Scully, 2004c. Modeling deposition by wave-supported gravity flows onthe Po River subaqueous delta: from seasonal floods to prograding clinoforms. Submitted toContinental Shelf Research.

Friedrichs, C.T., and L.D. Wright, 2003a. Analytical model for equilibrium shelf provides near rivermouths. ONR Po and Apennine Sediment Transport Array (PASTA) Meeting, Woods HoleOceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, MA, 25-26 July.

Friedrichs, C.T., and L.D. Wright, 2003b. Equilibrium subaqueous deltas associated with gravity drivensediment transport near river mouths. ONR EuroSTRATAFORM Annual Meeting, Aix-en-Provence,France, 26-29 October.

Friedrichs, C.T., and L.D. Wright, 2004. Gravity-driven sediment transport on the continental shelf:implications for equilibrium profiles near river mouths. Coastal Engineering, 51: 795-811

Friedrichs, C.T., L.D. Wright, D.A. Hepworth, and S.-C. Kim, 2000. Bottom boundary layer processesassociated with fine sediment accumulation in coastal seas and bays. Continental Shelf Research, 20:807-841.

Hill, P.S., J.M. Fox, J. Crockett, K.J. Curran, D.E. Drake, C.T. Friedrichs, W.R. Geyer, T.G. Milligan,A.S. Ogston, P. Puig, M.E. Scully, P. Traykovski and R.A Wheatcroft, 2004. Sediment delivery to theseabed on the Eel River continental margin. In: C.A. Nitrouer, J. Austin, M. Field, M. Steckler, J.P.M.Syvitski, and P. Wiberg (eds.), Continental Margin Sedimentation: Transport to Sequence, in review.

Morehead, M.D., and J.P. Syvitski, 1999. River-plume sedimentation modeling for sequencestratigraphy: application to the Eel margin, northern California. Marine Geology, 154: 29-41.

Nelson, B.W., 1970, Hydrography, sediment dispersal and recent historical development of the Poriver delta, Italy. In: Morgan J.P. (ed.), Deltaic Sedimentation, Modern and Ancient. SEPM SpecialPublication 15: 152-184.

Ogston, A.S. , D.A. Cacchione, R.W. Sternberg, and G.C. Kineke, 1999. Mechanisms of sedimentdispersal and the influence of floods on the northern California continental shelf. Coastal OceanProcesses Symposium, a Tribute to William D. Grant, Technical Report WHOI-99-04, Woods HoleOceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, MA, p. 171-174.

Ogston, A.S., D.A. Cacchione, R.W. Sternberg, and G.C. Kineke, 2000. Observations of storm andriver flood-driven sediment transport on the northern California continental shelf. Continental ShelfResearch, 20: 2141-2162.

Parsons, J.D., C.T. Friedrichs, P. Traykovski, D. Mohrig, J. Imran, J.P.M. Syvitski, G. Parker, P. Puigand M.H. Garcia, 2004. The mechanics of marine sediment gravity flows. In: C.A. Nittrouer, J. Austin,

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M. Field, M. Steckler, J.P.M. Syvitski, and P. Wiberg (eds.), Continental Margin Sedimentation:Transport to Sequence, in review.

Pratson, L., J. Swenson, A. Kettner, J. Fedele, G. Postma, A. Niedoroda, C. Friedrichs, J. Syvitski, C.Paoloa, M. Steckler, E. Hutton, C. Reed, M. Van Dijk, and H. Das, 2004b. Modeling continental shelfformation in the Adriatic Sea and elsewhere. Oceanography, 17(4): 118-131.

Pratson, L., P. Wiberg, M. Steckler, D. Cacchione, J. Karson, E. Mullenbach, J. Swenson, C. Nittrouer,B. Murray, G. Spinelli, C. Fulthorpe, D. O’Grady, G. Parker, N. Driscoll, R. Burger, C. Paola, D.Orange, M. Wolinsky, M. Field, C. Friedrichs, and J. Fildelez, 2004a. Seascape evolution on clasticcontinental shelves. In: C.A. Nittrouer, J. Austin, M. Field, M. Steckler, J.P.M. Syvitski, and P.Wiberg (eds.), Continental Margin Sedimentation: Transport to Sequence, in review.

Reed, C.W., A.W. Niedoroda, and D.J.P. Swift, 1999. Modeling sediment entrainment and transportprocesses limited by bed armoring. Marine Geology, 154: 143-154.

Scully, M.E., and C.T. Friedrichs, 2003. Numerical modeling of wave- and tide-supported, critically-stratified high energy suspensions using GOTM k-epsilon turbulence closure. ONREuroSTRATAFORM Annual Meeting, Aix-en-Provence, France, 26-29 October.

Scully, M.E., and C.T. Friedrichs, 2004. Modeling wave-supported gravity-driven transport: Po Riverdelta, 2000. ONR EuroSTRATAFORM Workshop, Keystone, CO, 10-14 July.

Scully, M.E., C.T. Friedrichs, and L.D. Wright, 2002. Application of an analytical model of criticallystratified gravity-driven sediment transport and deposition to observations from the Eel Rivercontinental shelf, northern California. Continental Shelf Research, 22: 1951-1974.

Scully, M.E., C.T. Friedrichs, and L.D. Wright, 2003. Numerical modeling results of gravity-drivensediment transport and deposition on an energetic continental shelf: Eel River, Northern California.Journal of Geophysical Research, 108 (C4): 17-1 – 17-14.

Souza, A., and C. Friedrichs, 2005. Sediment effects. In: H. Baumert, J. Simpson, and J. Sündermann(eds.), Marine Turbulence: Theories, Observations and Models. Cambridge University Press,Cambridge, UK, p. 283-296.

Syvitski, J.P.M., C. Friedrichs, P. Wiberg, and C. Reed, 2001. Representing Shelf Bottom BoundaryTransport in 2D-SedFlux: Stratigraphic Formation on Continental Margins. Annual Conference of theInternational Association for Mathematical Geology, Cancun, Mexico, 6-12 September.

Syvitski, J.P.M, E.W.H. Hutton, C. Friedrichs, P. Wiberg and C. Reed, 2002. Coupled land-seanumerical sediment-transport models and the formation of shelf stratigraphy IAS/SEPM Environmentalsedimentology Workshop on Continental Shelves, Hong Kong, 7-10 January.

Syvitski, J.P.M., A.J. Kettner, A. Correggiari, and B.W. Nelson, 2004. Distributary channels and theirimpact on sediment dispersal. Submitted to Marine Geology.

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Traykovski, P., W.R. Geyer, J.D. Irish, and J.F. Lynch, 2000. The role of wave-induced density-drivenfluid mud flows for cross-shelf transport on the Eel River continental shelf. Continental Shelf Research,20: 2113-2140.

Trowbridge, J.H., and G.C. Kineke, 1994. Structure and dynamics of fluid muds on the Amazoncontinental shelf. Journal of Geophysical Research, 97: 865-874.

Wright, L.D., C.T. Friedrichs, S.C. Kim, and M.E. Scully, 2001. Effects of ambient currents and waveson gravity-driven sediment transport on continental shelves. Marine Geology, 175: 25-45.

Wright, L.D., C.T. Friedrichs, and M.E. Scully, 2002. Pulsational gravity-driven sediment transport ontwo energetic shelves. Continental Shelf Research, 22: 2443-2460 [published, refereed].

Zhang, Y., D.J.P. Swift, S. Fan, A.W. Niedoroda, and C.W. Reed 1999. Two-dimensional numericalmodeling of storm deposition on the northern California shelf. Marine Geology, 154: 155-167.

PUBLICATIONS (by Friedrichs resulting from STRATAFORM/EuroSTRATAFORM funding)

Friedrichs, C.T., and M.E. Scully, 2004. Modeling deposition by wave-supported gravity flows on thePo River subaqueous delta: from seasonal floods to prograding clinoforms. Continental Shelf Research.[submitted, refereed].

Friedrichs, C.T., and L.D. Wright, 2004. Gravity-driven sediment transport on the continental shelf:implications for equilibrium profiles near river mouths. Coastal Engineering, 51: 795-811 [published,refereed].

Friedrichs, C.T., L.D. Wright, D.A. Hepworth, and S.-C. Kim, 2000: Bottom boundary layer processesassociated with fine sediment accumulation in coastal seas and bays. Continental Shelf Research, 20:807-841 [published, refereed].

Hill, P.S., J.M. Fox, J. Crockett, K.J. Curran, D.E. Drake, C.T. Friedrichs, W.R. Geyer, T.G. Milligan,A.S. Ogston, P. Puig, M.E. Scully, P. Traykovski and R.A Wheatcroft, 2004. Sediment delivery to theseabed on the Eel River continental margin. In: C.A. Nitrouer, J. Austin, M. Field, M. Steckler, J.P.M.Syvitski, and P. Wiberg (eds.) Continental Margin Sedimentation: Transport to Sequence [submitted,refereed].

Kim, S.C., C.T. Friedrichs, J.P.-Y. Maa, and L.D. Wright, 2000. Estimating bottom stress in a tidalboundary layer from acoustic Doppler velocimeter data. ASCE Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, 126:399-406 [published, refereed].

Parsons, J.D., C.T. Friedrichs, P. Traykovski, D. Mohrig, J. Imran, J.P.M. Syvitski, G. Parker, P. Puigand M.H. Garcia, 2004. The mechanics of marine sediment gravity flows. In: C.A. Nittrouer, J. Austin,M. Field, M. Steckler, J.P.M. Syvitski, and P. Wiberg (eds.), Continental Margin Sedimentation:Transport to Sequence [submitted, refereed].

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Pratson, L., J. Swenson, A. Kettner, J. Fedele, G. Postma, A. Niedoroda, C. Friedrichs, J. Syvitski, C.Paoloa, M. Steckler, E. Hutton, C. Reed, M. Van Dijk, and H. Das, 2004. Modeling continental shelfformation in the Adriatic Sea and elsewhere. Oceanography, 17(4): 118-131 [published, refereed].

Pratson, L., P. Wiberg, M. Steckler, D. Cacchione, J. Karson, E. Mullenbach, J. Swenson, C. Nittrouer,B. Murray, G. Spinelli, C. Fulthorpe, D. O’Grady, G. Parker, N. Driscoll, R. Burger, C. Paola, D.Orange, M. Wolinsky, M. Field, C. Friedrichs, and J. Fildelez, 2004. Seascape evolution on clasticcontinental shelves. In: C.A. Nittrouer, J. Austin, M. Field, M. Steckler, J.P.M. Syvitski, and P.Wiberg (eds.), Continental Margin Sedimentation: Transport to Sequence [submitted, refereed].

Scully, M.E., C.T. Friedrichs, and L.D. Wright, 2002. Application of an analytical model of criticallystratified gravity-driven sediment transport and deposition to observations from the Eel Rivercontinental shelf, northern California. Continental Shelf Research, 22: 1951-1974 [published, refereed].

Scully, M.E., C.T. Friedrichs, and L.D. Wright, 2003. Numerical modeling results of gravity-drivensediment transport and deposition on an energetic continental shelf: Eel River, Northern California.Journal of Geophysical Research, 108 (C4): 17-1 – 17-14 [published, refereed].

Souza, A., and C. Friedrichs, 2005. Sediment effects. In: H. Baumert, J. Simpson, and J. Sündermann(eds.), Marine Turbulence: Theories, Observations and Models. Cambridge University Press,Cambridge, UK, p. 283-296 [published, refereed].

Wright, L.D., C.T. Friedrichs, S.C. Kim, and M.E. Scully, 2001. Effects of ambient currents and waveson gravity-driven sediment transport on continental shelves. Marine Geology, 175: 25-45 [published,refereed].

Wright, L.D., C.T. Friedrichs, and M.E. Scully, 2002. Pulsational gravity-driven sediment transport ontwo energetic shelves. Continental Shelf Research, 22: 2443-2460 [published, refereed].

Wright, L.D., S.-C. Kim, and C.T. Friedrichs, 1999. Across-shelf variations in bed roughness, bedstress and sediment transport on the northern California shelf. Marine Geology, 154: 99-115[published, refereed].

HONORS/AWARDS/PRIZES

Friedrichs, C.T., 2000. Faculty Early Career Development (CAREER) Award. Awarded by theNational Science Foundation (NSF). Description from NSF website: The CAREER Award is NSF’smost prestigious award for new faculty members. The CAREER program recognizes and supports theearly career-development activities of those teacher-scholars who are most likely to become theacademic leaders of the 21st century.

Friedrichs, C.T., 2000. Presidential Early Career Award for Scientists and Engineers (PECASE).Awarded by President Clinton. Description from PECASE website: The PECASE Award is thehighest honor bestowed by the United States government on young professional at the outset of theirindependent research careers. Eight Federal departments and agencies join together annually to

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nominate the most meritorious young scientist and engineers who will broadly advance the science andtechnology that will be of the greatest benefit to fulfilling the agencies’ missions.

Friedrichs, C.T., 2001. Class of 1964 Distinguished Professorship. Awarded by the College of Williamand Mary. From William and Mary memo: Distinguished professorships for associate professors aredesigned to recognize and reward excellence in research or creative activity and a demonstratedcommitment to teaching, and to encourage faculty to remain at the College. Recipients of theseprofessorships will already enjoy a reputation for excellence in scholarship and teaching which suggeststhat they may be candidates for other distinguished professorships in the future.

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0 20 40 60 80 1000

20

40

60

80

100

1:1 line

Observed h.01 (meters)

h .01

(m

eter

s) fr

om E

quat

ion (b)

Eel shelf

Eel mouth

Ganges

Waiapu

Po

Rhone

Across-shelf distance (km)

Dep

th (

m)

T = 6 s,H3/Qr = 1

(mks units)

0 10 20 30

100

80

60

40

20

0

T = 10 s,H3/Qr = 7

T = 14 s,H3/Qr = 50

slope a = 0.01

Figure 1. (a) Equilibrium concave-downward shelf profiles predicted by Eq. (8) (T is waveperiod). The deepest profile is similar to the Eel, the intermediate profile is similar to the

Ganges-Brahmaputra and Waiapu, and the shallowest profile is similar to the Po and Rhone.(b) 1:1 line along with comparison of depths at which bathymetric profiles reach a slope of0.01 (h.01) as observed and as predicted by Eq. (8). From Friedrichs and Wright (2004).

(a)

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0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10-30

-25

-20

-15

-10

-5

0

Distance (km)

Dep

th (

m)

Qriver = 0.2 kg/m/sfor 30 days/yr

“Pila”

1860 2000

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10-30

-25

-20

-15

-10

-5

0

Distance (km)

Dep

th (

m)

Qriver = 0.04 kg/m/sfor 30 days/yr

“Tolle”

0 5 10 15 20 25 30-5

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

Ann

ual C

hang

e (c

m)

Depth (m)

Final year “Pila”deposition

Final year “Tolle”deposition

Subsidence

10/11 10/21 10/31 11/10 11/20 11/30

2000

kg/s

10000

20000

30000

40000

Disch

arge &

Waves =

Gravity F

low

No

waves, N

o g

ravity flow

Modeled period

Sig

nific

ant

wav

ehe

ight

(m

eter

s)

1

2

3

4Observed waves

10

(cm)

20

30

40

50

54’

48’

12º E 30’24’ 36’

1015 20

25 m

Distributionof sediment

input

Pila

Tolle

Gnocca

Fall 2000Flood Layer

ModeledThickness

45ºN

(a)

(b)

(a)

(b)

(c)

(d)

Figure 2. (a) Forcing conditions for the fall 2000 Po flood simulation. (b) Predicted thickness of theresulting flood layer. Predicted deposition is consistent with the general distribution of the flood

layer as mapped by EuroSTRATAFORM investigators. (From Friedrichs and Scully, 2004.)

Figure 3. Evolving bathymetry for simulation of subaqueous delta deposition off of the (a) Pila and(b) Tolle distributaries. (c) Representative profile locations. (d) Predicted deposition during the final

year of simulation along with the degree of annual subsidence. Both the long term and final yearsimulations are largely consistent with observations from the Po subaqueous delta. (From

Friedrichs and Scully, 2004.)

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Standard Form 298 (Rev. 8-98)Prescribed by ANSI-Std Z39-18

REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE Form ApprovedOMB No. 0704-0188

Public reporting burden for this collection of information is estimated to average 1 hour per response, including the time for reviewing instructions, searching data sources,gathering and maintaining the data needed, and completing and reviewing the collection of information. Send comments regarding this burden estimate or any other aspect of this collectionof information, including suggestions for reducing this burden to Washington Headquarters Service, Directorate for Information Operations and Reports,1215 Jefferson Davis Highway, Suite 1204, Arlington, VA 22202-4302, and to the Office of Management and Budget,Paperwork Reduction Project (0704-0188) Washington, DC 20503.PLEASE DO NOT RETURN YOUR FORM TO THE ABOVE ADDRESS.1. REPORT DATE (DD-MM-YYYY)01-03-2005

2. REPORT TYPEFinal

3. DATES COVERED (From - To)Oct 2002 - Sep 2004

5a. CONTRACT NUMBER

5b. GRANT NUMBERN00014-03-1-0144

4. TITLE AND SUBTITLEUpscaling Simple Models for Energetic Sediment Transport

5c. PROGRAM ELEMENT NUMBER

5d. PROJECT NUMBER

5e. TASK NUMBER

6. AUTHOR(S)Friedrichs, Carl T., Scully, Malcolm E., and Wright, L. Donelson

5f. WORK UNIT NUMBER

7. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES)Virginia Institute of Marine Science, College of William and Mary,Route 1208, Greate Road,Gloucester Point, VA 23062-1346

8. PERFORMING ORGANIZATIONREPORT NUMBERCHSD-2005-01

10. SPONSOR/MONITOR'S ACRONYM(S)ONR Code 321CG

9. SPONSORING/MONITORING AGENCY NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES)Office of Naval Research,Coastal Geosciences Program, Code 321CG800 North Quincy Street,Arlington, VA 22217-5660

11. SPONSORING/MONITORINGAGENCY REPORT NUMBER

12. DISTRIBUTION AVAILABILITY STATEMENTUnlimited

13. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES

14. ABSTRACTModels for wave-supported fluid muds and resulting gravity flows were applied to sediment transport and deposition attime scales ranging from individual wave events to steady-state clinoforms. To provide guidance in upscaling realisticturbulence closure models under energetic sediment transport conditions, numerical model simulations were run forsediment-stratified bottom boundary layers using the 1-D General Ocean Turbulence Model. At the other extreme time-scale, equilibrium profiles for riverine shelves were derived analytically by balancing the supply of sediment from the riverat the coast and the downslope bypassing capacity of sediment to deep water within wave-supported turbid near-bedlayers. At intermediate time-scales, a time-stepping version of the gravity flow model was able to account for themajority of the fall 2000 flood deposit mapped by EuroSTRATAFORM investigators in the vicinity of the Po subaqueousdelta and also for the rate of delta progradation observed off the dominant Pila outlet of the Po over the last 150 years.15. SUBJECT TERMSbottom boundary layer, suspended sediment transport, turbulence, sedimentation, gravity current, stratification,Richardson number, clinoform, delta

16. SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF: 19a. NAME OF RESPONSIBLE PERSON

a. REPORTU

b. ABSTRACTU

c. THIS PAGEU

17. LIMITATIONOF ABSTRACTUU

18. NUMBEROF PAGES15

19b. TELEPONE NUMBER (Include area code)


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