Views and thoughts of a casual traveller

Flew low over the hills/mountains coming in to land at Phoenix. Landed at furthest gate - miles to baggage collection and one of the moving walkways was broken! Caught rental car shuttle bus to pick up car - ended up with a Buick! Another bus! Not a bad drive though. Had automatic headlights!Seemed to take for ever to get out of Phoenix - five lanes, non-stop traffic. Huge city - all flat and spread out. Lots of palm trees. Once out in the dry hills dotted with bushes there were lots of Wild West cacti everywhere! But then they suddenly disappeared, which seemed strange. Drove the major highway towards Flagstaff - two lanes. Traffic was quite busy, but not too bad, but there was a long traffic jam going the other way, into Phoenix.Strange little buildings were scattered on tops of hills. Some mining areas around. Stopped at a rest area called Sunset Point - but it wasn’t -sunset, that is! Lots of people there admiring the lovely view of mountains. Sat at shaded table eating the remaining half of a bagel sandwich I'd got at the airport and was joined by a local lady who wanted to talk! As conversation progressed discovered why. Her four year old grand-daughter had just been hit and killed by a truck while in her care and she had just come from the funeral. Had held her as she died. What on earth can you say? She said she had her blood on her hands... Apparently her second son had died when he was 13. She'd come to the spot for some time away. Didn't feel much use, but she got to talk, anyway. Put a nice damper on the beautiful relaxing view!Continued on the road to Sedona. The hills got more arid, but every so often there'd be a greener area with more bushes/little trees. Took turn-off to see the historic Indian buildings at Montezuma’s Castle (not revenge!) but when got near there was a gate across the road and it was closed - had just gone 5 o'clock. Lots of other people caught out as well - one couple from England! We thought you would be able to just drive up to area, but was gated and restricted opening hours and you have to pay. Couldn’t even see anything from the road. Decided to forget going there as I wouldn’t have time to fit everything in.As I neared Sedona at sunset the towering red rocks appeared. Stunning and wonderful! Good decision to stay there. But the area was spoilt by roadworks - miles of them. Shame. Was dark when I found the motel. Had a lovely room overlooking the small heated pool with red rocks in the background. Good size, complete with empty fridge for food etc - the room, not the pool! Convenient small store next door, so got some food and ate in room and had a relaxing evening with telly! Bed slept three! Had own control of room temperature, which was nice. So warm!Discovered another part of my tooth had broken off but was wedged in place, but moved when ate, hence slight nag. Didn't want to have to waste time before Baltimore or Virginia finding a dentist. Left ear had been hurting driving along so did lots of jaw-moving exercises - must have looked strange! But by the time I got to Sedona at 4,500ft it wasn't hurting any more! Wondered if that that mean I had to live at altitude forever seeing after Yosemite I’d had problems going back to sea level!

DAY THIRTY-EIGHT – 28th OCTOBER Part Two

The barrenness of the drive between Phoenix and Sedona

Nice selection of food for breakfast. Folk on desk really didn't seem that geared up with tourist info, which was a shame, because it was a nice motel - the Comfort Inn - and it was! Decided not to go for early morning swim in outdoor heated pool - too small!Walked to Uptown Sedona to catch tour trolley bus (as opposed to the free trolley shuttle bus, which was all the chap on the front desk had heard of!). Long walk, part uphill and a lot on highway without pavements! Hotel is right by the Hillside group of art galleries and only a short distance from Tlaquepaque (small 'village' of shops and galleries started by someone who missed the Mexican one). Got to tour place in time to see 9am trolley leave! Next one was at 10, so browsed the mostly touristy shops of Uptown. A couple of cowboy ones - but preferred the native Indian goods ones.Bus tour was in two one hour parts and gave a good idea of the place and its history. Gave me ideas as to what to do in afternoon. Went to the Chapel of the Holy Cross, built among the red rocks. Stark modern building outside but nice and simple inside. Nice gift shop too! Discovered two ladies from England on the bus, one from Northampton and one from Essex. Later bumped into more: one American asked if there was anyone left in England!The second part of the tour was more scenic and out of town among the red rocks. Sunny, warm, with just a bit of hazy high cloud to stop it being too warm. Learnt all the different names of the rocks - dependant on what they resemble – from coffee pot to cathedral and Snoopy. A coyote crossed the road in front of bus and stopped at side and looked at us. Was limping - not surprised if he crosses in front of buses! But he/she was much paler than I expected. Tour guide said the Indians believed if a coyote crossed your path it meant the next 24 hours wouldn't turn out as you expected! Heck! I looked up the superstition later - if it crosses your path in the east it is bad luck; any other direction is good. This wasn't in the east - hurrah! Was feeling really good, warm, happy and contented - then discovered we were in one of the vortexes! Perhaps they do work! But just felt so good looking at and being amid the rocks in general. Could have done with more days there to explore!After the tour I walked back down to Tlaquepaque 'village'. Really was interesting and some good shops and galleries - 45 in all. Fountains, sculptures, eating establishments... All a nice feel.Walked over Oak Creek bridge (the fertile river valley running through the middle of Sedona and past it) and up to the Hillside galleries by hotel. Just before them, near the bridge, was a wonderful Indian rug shop. Excellent just to look around. Had a small museum section with old Indian artefacts as well. Nearly bought a Navajo rattle in the shape of a bear - but resisted!The best gallery was the largest, called Exposures. Everything so lovely and all just up my street! Oh to be rich! Had a bit of a jolt when reached one group of paintings and saw the artist was Charles Frizzell - my father's name! Were landscapes not unlike the ones dad painted!Several other galleries had art and craft work and sculptures to my taste. Enjoyed just looking at them and soaking them in!Returned to hotel and took to the Buick (doesn't it sound good!) to explore the little roads and tracks out among the rocks. Had been offered a Jeep by car hire folk for same price - almost wished I'd accepted! But kept to the paved roads and turned back when they became dirt tracks - apart from one: the Red Rocks loop road. Tour guide had recommended doing it and it was good with great views. But part way round was a sign saying road works. Road deteriorated to earth covered track. Car in front stopped and waved me on so I continued. Got worse! Was a narrow road winding along the side/edge of the rocks anyway! Interesting! Was highly relieved when after what seemed like an age it became a paved road again.Stopped at various places on the roads (in the designated parking areas - only 5 dollars for a day's pass. Really good value) and walked along some of the trails. Saw birds and some huge colourful unidentified insects - and lots of grasshoppers - but nothing else. Didn't venture too far into the middle of nowhere walking seeing I was alone and in view of the wildlife in area - mountain lions, snakes, scorpions, coyotes, bears....!! But emerged safe and sound! Took loads of photos of rocks! There were small, more oval leaved cacti everywhere there, not the tall cyclindrical ones with arms coming off like around Phoenix.

DAY THIRTY-NINE – 29th OCTOBER

Headed up Airport Road and climbed the rocky track to the top of a red rock mound for the view. Quite a few of us up there. A young boy asked to take my photo - mad thing! Why me? Several other ladies there...! Was nearing sunset, but clouds of a heavier nature had appeared in the afternoon so wasn't sure if it would be that good. Clambered down and drove up to next vantage point. Quite a lot of folk there as well. Hung around for sunset, but then the sky started going pinky red in a different direction so jogged up the road to the airport area, trying to find a good place to take a pic! Then the sunset proper started and the dark clouds were edged with red. Spectacular! No photos would do it justice! Went back down to retrieve car and drove back up to dine at the airport restaurant. Quite busy in there. Food piled up on plate. Free starter as well - had the garlic soup to try to rid self of snuffles that kept hanging round, and vampires, I guess, seeing Halloween thingies around everywhere! Resisted trying the fried cactus! No commercial flights from there, just pleasure/small planes. On top of a big flat area of rock. Normally good views, but was dark as I dined.Returned to hotel for early night seeing I had to be collected for Grand Canyon trip at 7.15am! Yuk!Sedona is in such a beautiful setting, but the town is growing so fast it could spoil it. Basically nothing there until the first film was made there in the 1920s, then it became popular as people discovered the wonderful scenery. A lot of the buildings weren't there even 15 years ago. Town has different areas, quite separate. Uptown is touristy - West Sedona is where the locals shop. But areas almost like housing 'estates‘ are encroaching into the countryside beneath some of the rocky moutains. So glad I went when I did!

DAY THIRTY-NINE – 29th OCTOBER

Initial views of Sedona and the red rocks the following morning

They got better! The light so affects the intensity of the colours

The Chapel of the Holy Cross, amid the rocks

Inside was simple and quiet. Music was playing – Celtic!

The differing shapes

Most formations have nicknames

This is Snoopy, lying down!

Some of the sculptures as Tlaquepaque

This shop had wind sculptures

The Hillside galleries too had their sculptures

So many different shapes

Sunset at the airport above Sedona

Today was the full day trip to the Grand Canyon plus other places. Was picked up at 7.20am. Minibus full - 14 of us. Nice folk.The first part was the drive to Flagstaff - have to do it myself the following day so will be interesting as it is windy mountains road! Spectacular scenery up through the rocks, up through Oak Creek Canyon. Lots of trees being killed by bark beetles, but helps thin them out! Forestry folk also carry out controlled burning in the forest around the Flagstaff/Grand Canyon area - were they were doing a big one near Flagstaff and the smoke went for miles. Were just away from it fortunately, although smelt it sometimes, but it spoilt the later view of the Painted Desert - wasn't painted in our smokey view! There was also a burn at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon but didn't spoil our view from the South Rim, although I guess there might have been a very slight reduction in colour in a bit near it. But back to the beginning...!Drove onto the San Francisco volcanic field. (Quite a way from San Francisco!) Interesting! Volcanoes all around, but fortunately none active! Been many hundreds of years since the last one erupted. The volcanic area is gradually moving east apparently. On the older volcanic areas trees grow on the ash and as time goes by more vegetation appears. Went near the tallest peaks in Arizona as we drove along the top of the Colorado plateau (although not in Colorado!). Strange after climbing up mountains to be on a flat area. Had climbed 3000 ft!We stopped at Sunset Crater visitor centre, which was interesting, then a bit further on to walk on the lava. Sharp, jagged variety, not smooth like I imagined it would be; fascinating landscape with trees dotted as well.Some aspen trees there, which have an interesting blotchy bark. Their keaves shimmer in the wind as well. Quite a variety of trees seen during the day, changing with the climate, altiude, type of soil/ash etc. Juniper and pine most common. Saw a squirrel in the nearby woods - dark with white front.Driving further on, we eventually started to see sandstone again. Stopped at the remains of the Native Indian settlement at Wupatki. Partially reconstructed, tired adobe dwellings built around rock. Amazingly only us there! Was lovely exploring the ruins in the sun. Had a ball game area - some tribes used to play to the death, not unlike today then!! This was a Navajo settlement. Various clans lived in the area. Saw more remains of settlements in the area afterwards.Saw where Easyrider was filmed! Of special interest to me as that's what my boat is named after by a previous owner!Was amazed to be told at one stage we were driving through grazing land - only bushes and couple clumps of dried grass there! What do the cattle graze? Didn't see any there anyway!So dry and barren - got worse as we got further north - bonsaid junipers 100 years old, looking like just little bushes, was all that grew in places. Indian land totally barren, but they are craftsmen/artists not farmers. Indian land is government land held in trust for the Indians for ever! No alcohol sold on reservations except at a casino. (Our driver/guide was a wealth of informatiin - talking encyclopedia! He never stopped talking all day - apart from for a while on way home!)Had lunch at the Cameron trading post. Original building from 1920s. Interesting dining area - beautiful traditional metal ceiling, cabinets with drawers etc from original pharmacy area... Had Navajo stew - was just like English beef stew! But came with big round of their fried bread which was delicious, but couldn't manage to eat it all! Explored the buildings there. The Little Colorado Gorge runs by it with a bridge that goes nowhere any more!. Just used for Alaska oil pipeline to cross the gorge! Wandered round the massive shop area - lady weaving a rug there. So many nice things, mainly Navajo.Navajo are matriarchal. Women own the houses, men own the trucks. If a woman wants to get rid of a man she takes his clothes and throws them on east side of house - considered a divorce! Like the sound of their system!! Women also retain their names. Divided into clans: it is taboo to marry into your own clan. Their typical houses are round or many-sided so evil spirits can't lurk in the corners. But a lot of them live in little shacks or trailers. Very poor area.

DAY FORTY – 30th OCTOBER

Climbed back up towards the Grand Canyon. Little Indian shacks scattered around. So barren. Had impressive views of the Little Colorado Gorge.Suddenly there were trees again as we reached a national forest. Before too long reached the Grand Canyon State National Park. Entered by the East gate - no queue! Stopped at first viewing point, Painted Desert (but see above re smoke!). Excellent first view of canyon. Guide directed us away from the observation tower to a secluded area for first view - we were perched on the rocks at edge of gorge with nothing between us and the drop! Wonderful! Am sure it would never be allowed in the UK! But it is so vast - no photo or postcard can ever do it justice! The glorious weather - blue sky but with just a few clouds to add shadow and extra interest - added to it. Then we went to the observation tower - built early 1900s a replica of Indian lookout and decorated inside with Indian paintings. I climbed to the top - five flights of steps was it? Was surprised I didn't feel more tired than usual! Apart from an occasional bloated feeling around diaphragm didn't seem to suffer any effects from the 7,500 ft. But the amount if water being consumed to avoid dehydration meant I visited more loos in the day than I've ever done before! Was bad on the couple of hours drive home without a stop when we went down 3000ft in only a few miles - disastrous effect on the by then full bladder! Was relieved (appropriate word!) to reach hotel! Others similarly afflicted, I was reassured to note, as they dashed off bus to use facilities at my hotel! (Fortunately the first drop-off hotel!)But I digress!Drove further along and stopped at a couple of viewpoints, including Yavapai Point, where there was an information centre that was interesting about how the canyon was formed. Met a couple who had just seen a pair of condors below - but never managed to see them, alas! Some wildlife is so unobliging! But guide said we had one of the best days view-wise of the canyon for a while, so that was good! Could see the smoke from the fires at the north rim (closed for the winter - they often have snow around now!) Last stop on the rim was at the village. Went in the Hopi house - houses an Indian craft shop - and the hotel (in search if rest room!), which was an interesting building. Walked part of the rim trail. Some deer near the railroad station that had long ears. Train was in.Before finaly left the park had a quick stop at the Imax theatre for opportunity to get the Grand Canyon DVD etc. Other tours stop there to see the film, but ours was the tour that took in other things so we didn't - and no-one wanted to stop to see it anyway!Took a different road home, past more scattered shacks etc. Saw one small place (called Valley??) that had an aircraft museum - and a Flintstones fun park!! Yabberdabberdoo!Driver said countryside not interesting so put on the old Broken Arrow Western film! Was filmed in Sedona, like a lot of Westerns, and it was interesting to recognise the rocks!Got distracted from it by the spectacular sunset. Wished it had been like that the previous night! But it was amazing. The sunsets here really are so good! But was frustrated by not being able to stop to take a picture! Guide seemed to lack imagination on that front! Earlier he had been so busy talking and impressing with his knowledge that he had missed deer and elk beside the road, etc! But he was good.Couldn't see the lights of Oak Creek village as we neared home due to strict lighting rules. Makes for excellent stargazing!Bought food at Circle K store next to hotel and dined in!I don't believe it! Had an email from Joan in California to say yesterday they had a thunderstorm and today they had a reasonable sized earthquake! Missed it by two days!! Not sure whether to be relieved or disappointed! Also had a bobcat ran across road in front of car, so missed that too!Tomorrow is my dodgy travel to Santa Fe day! Have looked up taxi numbers in case coach doesn’t arrive in Albuquerque on time!

DAY FORTY – 30th OCTOBER

Day 39. Day trip to Grand Canyon, stopping en route. This was the lava field at Sunset Crater

Native Indian settlement at Wupatki

The Cameron Trading Post. So many lovely things to buy. Dined on Navajo stew

Bridge over Little Colorado Gorge and the gorge

Interesting holey rock formations

The Grand Canyon

The Grand Canyon

The Grand Canyon

Inside the observation tower

And outside

A nice touch!

More of the canyon – just so vast and wonderful

And a bit windy!

Interesting effect

More views. Controlled burning smoke on the right

Inside the observation tower

A lone bird on the left, alas not the Condor I just missed by a minute!

The Hopi House at the village

Sunset on the minibus back to Sedona

An interesting day! Always knew it was going to be tricky, but not the way it turned out to be!After brekkies I went for a last drive around Sedona (named after the wife of the man who first arranged for mail to be delivered there as his first suggestion was considered too long!) - at 8.20! More by good luck than good judgment I ended up on the road to the bottom of Cathedral Rock. Walked the trail up to it. Was lovely. Walking on red rocks and paths amid cacti and shrubs. Suddenly realised how far I'd walked so returned towards car. Met a lady who said, in a very precise English accent, if I would like my photo taken in front of rocks! We chatted for quite a while! She looked and sounded very like the wife of our RNLI branch president's wife! She was pleased to meet a 'Brit'! Had been living in Minnesota with her husband, but had just retired to Sedona rather than the original plan of returning to England, having discovered it two years ago! Said she was in heaven, although heaven would be even better! Goes to local Wayside church - said pastor's preaching was wonderful!Returned to hotel and checked out. While loading luggage in car got talking to lady in next one. She said she'd heard some Irish voices the previous\day and asked them where they were from. She was American-born but her father was Irish. Turned out they came from place near his original home in Kerry and knew her cousin! Small world - and I'd been there last year!Stopped in town to find a nice postcard of Cathedral rock (most shopkeepers dressed up for Halloween everywhere in town!), then took the road to Flagstaff, up through Oak Creek Canyon. Anyone who goes to Sedona must do that drive! Beautiful! And plenty of places to stop and explore. Interesting signs such as 'leave ye no litter'! Also 'watch out for rocks'. Seeing one is surrounded by them, not hard! Road follows creek for ages, then winds and climbs steeply. Stopped at the viewpoint at the top. Largish parking area, information hut with woman who looked accusingly at everyone who went in (!!), a row of stalls selling Indian wares. Looked down from the various viewing points. Accidentally brushed past an elderly man who was a little wobbly on his feet, who announced he'd better check his wallet was still in his pocket!! Wondered what had happened to the lovely feel everywhere! I assured him I was not a thief! Later on encountered him and his wife again. Apologised again for bumping into him and this time he grudgingly apologised as well!Drove on to Flagstaff. Found the Greyhound station courtesy of GPS - would never have found it else! Dumped my case and big bag by desk and they said they'd watch it. Ran back to car (time was running out before bus due!) and went to programme address of Budget car hire office into GPS - and discovered the chap in Phoenix had kept my sheet with the address on and none of the paperwork he'd given me had it on it! I'd printed off a map of the bus station at home and marked approximate area of Budget, but not put address on it! Time really running out! Decided if worse came to worse I could keep car and drive to Santa Fe! Would actually be a whole lot quicker! Used mobile to ring Budget in Phoenix - someone took phone off hook and hung up! Tried again and got answerphone! Panic! Found a reservations number on some other hire car paperwork - chap put me through to someone else.... Eventually got the address, but GPS said no such number! Found the long avenue. Went wrong way so had to turn round, and then saw Budget van parked outside the place - hallelujah! Returned car, grabbed a free chocolate (!) and was given a lift back to bus station - as I'd previously sussed, it wasn't too far away!Showed my Internet booking confirmation sheet at Greyhound desk - they couldn't find my ticket! Computer said journey had beencompleted, but the bus hadn't even left!! Was on point of thinking of getting my hire car back to drive instead when the driver of my bus appeared and said he'd get me there! Stood in the kind of line. Lot of folk going on bus. We with luggage (not many!) were kept back while everyone else boarded! Eventually we were let on! Driver asked for luggage official labels, but desk hadn't given me any! He said no time so put them on! When I went from Vermont nobody had tagged luggage or anything! And everyone boarded together. Obviously all different procedures! Driver very bossy!

DAY FORTY-ONE – 31st OCTOBER

Next trick was to find a seat! No doubles left by then, of course! And no-one appeared willing to move things to share. Got virtually to back when three chaps who some might have described as dodgy-looking characters came up trumps! They were friends and had taken a seat each, but moved so I could have a double seat to myself! Good Samaritan came to mind! But did get the impression they were on a ‘high’!Some really interesting characters around me! Black girl in front talked non-stop! But never looked at companion chap - talked to window! Caught odd bits like she'd been in jail for four days, someone else had been in jail but was on parole, two black eyes...!! Was placing bets with self how long she could keep droning/babbling on for! Didn't pause for breath! Must have had circular breathing! Fortunately not too loud, or I would have gone mad! Some hilarious stuff from lady at back... Was next to loo so had to run gauntlet of her if you went there (which I avoided by using stops to good advantage!)! Kept me amused! Remembered it was Halloween - decided we were having one on the bus!! Woman behind had seven kids -lady in back asked if she couldn't find a hobby! Said she had a ranch. Drove trucks. Real wild west, what with the surroundings an' all! Good job! Tee hee! Some on bus for 24 hours! Made my nine look puny! Another one started singing!Drove on Colorado plateau for ages. Just so flat as far as the eye can see with nothing there most of the time. Occasional rough-looking dwellings.Winslow first town, but not allowed off bus to stretch legs! Smokers not happy! Would have been a boring drive! Straight road across nothing dual carriageway type road. Passed occasional goods train. Early on passed volcanic mounds that were being quarried for ash to put on roads.Were allowed off for ten minutes at next town - if you can call it that! Holbrook. Still on the plateau. Some mound remains of what I presume was mining just after. But model of dinosaur by road - a bell rang re dinosaur remains....Although road said 40, kept seeing Route 66 signs... To be investigated!Bit further on passed Petrified wood and fossil place - memory had been right. Mention of Painted Desert as well. Think I saw a bit far left. Teepees at trading post. We were in Petrified Forest National Park.Was at this point I realised the front section of the bus was quiet and sane!! But back far more interesting!More Indian trading posts, nearly-dry rivers, nothing..... Then suddenly some red rocks/cliffs. Some nice formations.Singing got on one female's nerves.. She started ranting and raving..! Had been thinking I hadn't heard the F word in America - she made up for it in one half hour! Driver threatened to throw folk off bus! Was thinking I'd just seen the more refined side of States - now resolved!The whole Indian area looks so poor. Saw Manuelito Navajo Children's Home - looked like a glorified shed or barn. Apparently within a month everything up here will be covered with snow. How do they survive?Stopped for half an hour in Gallup, New Mexico - fair sized place. I explored shopping area by bus. Went in Corral West Ranchwear - and got some Christmas cards! Costumed trick and treaters - kids with grown-ups - going in all shops for candy. Quite a nice town. Sculptures of mining activities near bus depot, including a little train pulling little trucks and a man pulling others.Singer had left coach there - peace reigned!Rehoboth Christian School just outside town. At least the rocks one or both sides made for some variety from the previous flat nothing!Gained a passenger in adjacent seat. Lovely little man, slightly wizened, with bushy beard - like an old prospector! Had a couple of little chats. He was on long journey - said he did it often, delivering drugs.....! Didn't enquire more! Hoped they were the legal kind! But he kept worrying in case his case got lost...! Oh, this journey has felt like a real adventure!

DAY FORTY-ONE – 31st OCTOBER

After that, apart from a brief stop to pick up passengers in a town (always seems to be beside a Macdonald's if no depot!) we didn't stop till Albuquerque. Quite a nice sunset en route, but not like the Sedona ones!Albuquerque in the dark looked pretty - and huge! Looked like they were pretty hot on light pollution like Sedona (which seemed like a pimple now compared to ABQ!!) - no great glow in the sky above it.Driver had to help sort my ticket problem and lack of luggage labels. (I'd tied on little Greyhound labels and pit address in Santa Fe but had no official tags as girl at Flagstaff didn't know what to do! Had visions of luggage going to somewhere different to me! Bus had arrived 15 minutes early so no problem catching Santa Fe bus. Phew! So would need to find taxi at other end. Young lad sat behind me on bus with stinking, streaming cold! Heck! Fingers crossed! Only seven of us on coach - only me to Santa Fe! Also began to wish I spoke Spanish! But journey didn't take long.Think I'd underestimated the size of Santa Fe. Way bigger/spread out than I thought, but am staying in historic/museum area. Had to phone for taxi to b&b: Greyhound bus station chap kept it open a bit longer than usual until it arrived as I was the only one there and would have been left in dark! Had foolishly put number of taxi in the bag that I put in the 'hold' with the case, so couldn't phone ahead. Taxi run down and driver unkempt and rough and ready! But he was nice. Took quite a while to reach b&b! He knew the street but not where it was. He did stop the clock though! Key was to be under planter: there was more than one! Taxi driver found it! Found room easily, just inside. Fellow guest welcomed me.Room not that big but very nice. Old adobe building. My room has a little niche in the wall with a lovely dark metal cross in it. Very appropriate! Have own bathroom again.Retired to bed as was about 10.30pm and watched tv for a while: first found South Park, then a classical music programme, then one showing local images of mountains etc while playing hymns! All very good. Then had quick look at local tourist leaflets.Breakfast between 8 and 10 so can have lie in! Have lost an hour in time difference. Reminds me, Arizona doesn't turn clocks back at all - apart from the Indian areas. Am not looking forward to them going back when I'm in Baltimore: will get dark so early. Will have to get up early! But things don't open till later anyway!Will generally explore and get bearings on first day here. Have a feeling I will miss Sedona!

.

DAY FORTY-ONE – 31st OCTOBER

Day 40. The swimming pool at my hotel in Sedona

Cathedral rock

Same rock from differing angles!

Taken by the only other persons around.. who happened to originate from the UK! Not sure what the glow around me was!!

The area beside the rock

Couldn’t resist this shot!

En route to Flagstaff… Oak Creek Canyon

I was reluctant to leave Sedona, but Santa Fe has proved an ideal middle point between that and Baltimore. But I so wish I had more time in the Southwest. I love the adobe buildings, art, craft etc. And the historic Native Indian culture. So spiritual. It is the off-season in Santa Fe, so not many people around and hardly any traffic. Great!Although my b&b, the Hacienda Nicholas, is not the prettiest adobe building from the front, it is lovely inside. And the other folk staying here are great company. We eat on two longish wooden tables (only six rooms) and I was with two couples with whom I chatted for about an hour and a half at breakfast time! One couple from Washington DC area invited me to give call when there. Other couple an old veteran and his wife from Virginia. Great conversation! I'd woken feeling as if I was starting hay fever and skin was itching. One of the ladies said she'd been suffering badly from allergies since here! Someone thought it could be juniper pollen. But I felt fine once out and about. Perhaps it's the cyclamen in my room!Walked to Post Office, passing a pinkish nice building - said it was Scottish rites Masonic museum - didn't see if it was open. Scottish?! Then to the Plaza. Explored shops there for a bit then went in the nearby Roman Catholic cathedral. Had been feeling very tired - probably due o stress of previous day! But the building and atmosphere and the lovely music they were playing on CD there had a wonderful effect on me. So calming and brought tears to my eyes. Sat there for a while just enjoying being there. Walls white and decorations are fairly simple yet so beautiful. Lit a candle. Lovely series of local paintings on walls. Stained glass lovely as well. Opposite the cathedral is the most beautiful two-storey car park I've ever seen! All adobe to match other buildings. Great. Went in the Loretto Chapel nearby - not so impressed - now a museum. Had an unsupported spiral staircase that is famous as a 'how did they do that' construction. But next to it was a lovely adobe staggered multi-storey building - like an old pueblo. Had shops as well as hotel rooms.Obviously a church morning, as then found the San Miguel Mission little chapel - oldest religious building in US. Went inside, then went in the oldest house in US opposite. Part museum, part shop. Had long chat with lady there.Finally found the visitor centre and got a bit of advice. Crossed over and saw the New Mexico State Capitol building. Santa Fe the oldest capital in US. Lots of oldests! Then returned to The Plaza, exploring more shops en route! Just love the local wares! Had a quick bite to eat and one of the couples from digs turned up at same place!Went in the Palace of Governors - now a Museum of New Mexico. Very interesting. Oldest government building still in use.... A favourite of mine was an old stage coach - referred to as a mud coach! Great to see the history of the area. Artefacts I've never seen anywhere else. Then went in the neighbouringMuseum of Fine Arts. Also very interesting. Another lovely adobe building. Some are old, some more modern. Had a special Egyptology exhibition. Suddenly thought hadn't seen anything Chinese lately: went upstairs and there straight away was a section of Chinese artefacts. Didn't know that! Chuckled!Explored yet more shops, then caught minibus to Museum Hill. Quite a drive - interesting journey, going near the nearest mountains, which Santa Fe is among although on a plateau. More adobe - looks so good!Went in the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture. Excellently set out and so fascinating. Loved it. Went in the rest rooms there. Inside the initial door saying ladies was a choice of two more doors: I chose one and walked into a broom cupboard!!Then went in adjacent Museum of Folk Art. Some things from all over the world, but lots of local. The first gallery to the right was my favourite - full of models of scenarios etc plus other artefacts. Never seen anything like them anywhere else. Walked round with big grin on face! But had been doing that a lot anyway! Other galleries good as well.

DAY FORTY-TWO – 1st NOVEMBER

Chatted to some folk from California on the bus back to centre of town. On a kind of retreat.Watched a rodeo on TV in room! More wild west! But such cruelty - to those riding the bulls, that is! So many injuries! They really must be mad!Had rung a local tour company lunchtime to see if there were any tours outside the town the next day. Guy at visitor centre not hopeful at this time of year. Lady in charge of b&b had said at breakfast that Bandelier was good (historic remains of old houses in cliffs) - and guess what: that was the only trip actually running! Oh fortune!Clear blue sky all day. Was a bit chilly in the morning at first, but then warmed up. Don't appear to be suffering any effects from 7000ft altitude. Hallelujah! Hope I don't back at sea level like I did after Yosemite!! Is there a reverse of altitude sickness?!Heard on TV about hurricane - might make New England wet and windy about the time I fly back! At least I missed the earthquake!Had been recommended to go in the Georgia O'Keefe Museum, but saw some of her paintings in the fine art museum and wasn't that keen, so will only do it tomorrow if time after the tour.

DAY FORTY-TWO – 1st NOVEMBER

Day 41. Safely arrived in Santa Fe the previous evening after driving to Flagstaff and having and eventful coach journey to Phoenix!! This is the Scottish Rites Masonic Museum.

The Plaza in Santa Fe. Indian traders sit under the area ahead

The cathedral – atrocious shot of it!

Inside there was the most wonderful atmosphere. Music playing quietly, the white interior with simple artwork… didn’t want to leave. Was just somewhere very special

Inside there was the most wonderful atmosphere. Music playing quietly, the white interior with simple artwork… didn’t want to leave. Was just somewhere very special

This is the nicest car parking building I’ve ever seen!

Some more Santa Fe buildings. I love adobe buildings!

Loretto Chapel, which has an unsupported spiral staircase

San Miguel Mission little chapel - oldest religious building in US

Inside the chapel

New Mexico State Capitol building

Museum of New Mexico exhibit – called a Mud Coach!

Museum of Indian Arts and Cultures on Museum Hill

Museum of Indian Arts and Cultures on Museum Hill

Various thoughts crossed my mind while lying in bed, having woken early as usual! First was it was so lovely and quiet here! But was thinking of wildlife encounters I'd had. Have had some great ones, but also had ones that nearly happened or were near misses - like the condors! Also at the Grand Canyon a couple I'd been talking to took a path about six feet away from the one I took and had a snake slither across in front of them! Did see some lizards there though! But hadn't better think about snakes/scorpions etc or, going on past experience, they might appear! Will watch my step in the hills today!Had planned Baltimore as a 'crash out' time, but don't feel in need of it at present! Flight tomorrow only three hours (am now the great traveller!), across two time zones, but the clocks go back that night so only one hour difference in the end! Wonderful planning on my part! (Actually a coincidence, the clock bit!)I love the historic culture of this region but wonder how much of it survives. Is change always for the better? Obvious answer! Bit of both.This part of the trip really has felt like an adventure! So enjoying it and so grateful for the chance to do all this!My Zuni owl necklace has drawn much admiration, including from craft shop owners! I'm fortunate it's a Zuni one, it appears, as in all other Indian cultures the owl is a bad omen! But in Zuni it is the opposite - symbol of wisdom (of course!!), being able to see what others can't, protector of the home, and symbol of possible change (appropriate - will life be the same after this?!). But I just bought it because I liked it anyway!Forgot to say yesterday that a couple of the museums had examples of shrines from Catholic homes. Very religious.Wrote previous bit while still in bed. Now for the day's real report!Chatted to the three couples I'd made friends with at brekkies. All leaving today. Have been given contact details of the folk near Washington with strict instructions to call when there! (We are still friends!) The chap said a huge spider ran across sitting area last night which he killed! Just after I'd said goodnight to him when passing through! Am now wary about walking around my room barefoot!Went for a short walking explore until 9.30, when was picked up by tour minibus. Much more laid back lady guide than the Grand Canyon trip! Drove to Bandalier, which involved driving between the end of the Rocky Mountains which overlook the town and are a skiing centre (apparently had some snow a fortnight ago but now warm again) and some other fascinating scenery, including flat-topped mesas, nearby Jemez mountains and the Rio Grande - nearly burst into song again! Passed the Santa Fe opera outside the town. Excellent view all around from it! Also golf course complex - the up-and-coming way of making money in the state by the Pueblo Indians.Went by Los Alamos, where atom bomb was developed. Still top secret work going on there. (Saw in a booklet guide that you could get an atomic bomb T-shirt! Yes, well!) A suburban type town been created for workers - not at all New Mexican. Called White Rock - very Welsh, I thought, as another song came to mind! (David of the White Rock - Welsh song, for the uninitiated!) The town has the greatest concentration of PhDs per head in the States! Also a large Asian community.Also passed various present day Indian pueblos. Visitors not particularly welcome, apparently. Exception is Taos further north, where I would have liked to have gone, but the pueblo remains at Bandalier National Monument were really worth seeing. Have had the most archaeological digs of anywhere in US. They are in the Frijoles Canyon, which is an old volcanic area where the eruption a million years ago created bubbles in the rock - some cave-sized which were inhabited by the people, who also built small rooms in front of some of them and built a large circular complex of rooms at the bottom of the valley in front below them. Used ladders to get to the caves and you are able to look in some by using ladders created from tree branches or narrow trunks - not sure which! Various pictures carved into rocks (petroglyphs) and one painting. Fascinating. Wondered how any pregnant females etc would have got up into caves! Apparently only lived till about 35!

DAY FORTY-THREE – 2nd NOVEMBER

After walking around the remains in the main area, including a large circular ceremonial building that would have been completely covered in soil and would have had ladders to get down into it, our guide let us choose whether to walk an extra half mile to a higher large ceremonial cave. We all wanted to so set off on the lovely walk by the stream through the woods. Nearly trod on a snake - someone thought it was a garter snake. Quite small. But had been busy looking at the surroundings, not the path!Then saw an Abert's tassel-eared squirrel - so cute! I hung around for a few minutes and managed to get a pic of it drinking from the stream. Then had to speed walk to catch up with others! Apparently a youngish bear has been sighted quite often in the area recently - but not today! Saw various small birds but guide wasn't a birder so remained ignorant as to names!Beautiful trees - bright yellow cottonwoods. Apparently the dryness and altitude make the colours more intense, which is why artists like the area. Ponderosa (cue for music!) pine trees bark smelt of vanilla. We were going up to them and smelling them as we walked! Will be certified later! Pinon pines also plentiful.At the place we reached there was a 140ft climb divided into three vertical log ladders and a few stone stairs - no rail etc! Also a ladder down into cave. I made it up to three-quarters of the way up the second one, but then decided that was far enough! Think I might have made it up, but it was coming down might have been a problem! Only a couple of our group of seven made it all the way (slightly younger males!), so felt quite brave! Most just did one ladder and decide they didn't need to go into the cave after all!Returned to the visitor centre, where we had seen short video and small museum before walking round, and had lunch. Then drove home. Spectacular gorges! Stopped at the Rio Grande overlook spot, which was awe inspiring! Different from the Grand Canyon, but still so vast. Wondered how on earth they would have travelled the area in covered wagons etc!Got back an hour and a half after originally planned time as we'd stayed longer at remains etc. Was good that we had been able to choose what to do and how long to spend. Dumped un-needed fleece at digs (so hot today, but didn't get sunburnt still! Seem to have become immune to it!) Then took of for final explore of town centre. Went mad and bought a locally made silver ring inlaid with turquoise, lapis lazuli, etc (a third off as end of season!), and a Native American flute - which I had managed to resist until then! But it called me! Made in Arizona. Had first heard them in Vermont and fell in love with the sound.On way back to digs the organ was being played in the Episcopal Church to the rear of the house. Sounded wonderful. Stood outside and listened for a while!Was able to check-in for my flight online at the sister b&b just behind mine. (Couldn't think of way of extending my stay here as everything booked! Rats!) Interesting building - completely different from the adobe one. Is one of only two Queen Anne style houses in the state! Called the Alexander Inn. Lady in office printed off my boarding pass and gave advice on local dining places. Very nice chat with her.Had some cheese and biscuits at my digs then set off in search of proper food. Eventually decided on place in the Plaza with heated balcony. Country and Western duo played there during evening. Was busy. Folk on next table had problems getting the right bill! I had trout - fresh from the Rio Grande - but it arrived with rice, not mashed potatoes. Said I'd stick with the rice and it was ok, but was later brought potatoes as well so had both! Sauce only slightly spicy! But was then given a bill for someone three times mine! Got it sorted! Waitress in a flap! Apparently not normally this busy in November. Strange as not many people or cars around in the day!Returned to digs and sorted case and bag - getting heavier! Leaving at 6.40am seems completely over the top, but at least will see sunrise. Hope shuttle turns up! Same firm as taxi man who didn't know where it was!

DAY FORTY-THREE – 2nd NOVEMBER

Bandalier Pueblo remains

Bandalier Pueblo remains

A very confusing sign! It was scorching hot!

How did they get into their homes? Especially the old or pregnant women?

Some didn’t require quite as much clambering

Great rock formations

Inside one of the homes

More high rise homes!

Ancient carvings in the rock

Even some painting remains

Some scenic shots

The riverside walk to the further, higher abodes… and a snake!

A less dangerous piece of wildlife! And a warning of what was to come!

Looking up… and looking down! Proof I did it!

The Rio Grande

More interesting rocks!

The final photos from Santa Fe

Usual girl not on breakfast duty at b&b so couldn't say bye to her. Was an older couple.Shuttle arrived a bit late, then picked some more up - six of us in all. Saw the sunrise over Rockies en route. Albuquerque definitely sprawls!Luggage check-in was do-it-yourself computer screen. Am sure it takes longer! Browsed a couple of shops to kill time. Then went through security.Realised after had gone through security I had a bottle of water in outside pocket of handbag and no-one said a thing! Walk through scanner was great fun -blew puffs of air all over you! Was hilarious! Someone said they didn't need to go to Disneyland now! Wish all airports had it. Had me laughing, and the young couple behind me!No seat allocations on plane - you board in A, B and C groups, those who checked in first going first. Although I'd checked in online I was still only in group B. Managed to get fourth in line B and succeeded in getting window seat. Hurrrah! Plane full.Pilot wonderful - real y'all accent - and he actually said it on more than one occasion! Was joking with us. Why aren't they all like that! He said he'd give us a good view of Sandia Peak (the mountain overlooking Albuquerque) and he sure did! And I was on the right side! Amazing! He flew along the length so close then went over it - looked like we were just going to clear it! Wonderful! Could see the aerial lift that goes up to it and the ski trails etc, but no snow! He even told us when there was going to be a good view of Santa Fe. Once again, wish more pilots like that! No onboard screens but didn't care! Too busy watching scenery! Nice also that pilot didn't enforce seatbelts for little bumpy patches; only when going to be a bit worse! Air Canada pilot had us buckled in if a feather disturbed us!! Aircraft a Boeing 737. Staff efficient and nice. Really impressed! Free drinks and snacks. And done without the awful trollies, which speeded things up in a packed plane! Reading the magazine noticed not for the first time that military can get concessions on tickets for things like shows. Find it strange! Can't imagine it happening in UK! Had seen a car in Albuquerque with, in place of a front number plate, one saying 'retired army' or something along those lines. Do find the emphasis on armed service a little strange and alien. Ours at home is quite low key.Something I've also noted but never jotted down, I think: over around New York, Cape Cod area the police are used to control traffic at roadworks. Couldn't believe it! They must have an awful lot of spare police! Didn't see it happen on the West Coast or anywhere else!Something else I noticed on the wide open plains that I'd seen before: there are groups of circles on the land - look like fields/cultivated areas? Why circles? Or us it Native Indian again? Rectangular areas as well this time among them. Perhaps they just drive the tractors round in circles!After the few initial mountains - the smaller crinkly ones looking a bit like Cornish pasties! - it was into the flat wide open spaces. But they were a patchwork of rectangular and circular fields - quite pretty! But how do they farm those huge area! Presume it was New Mexico, then Texas... Must be so boring to drive through! Pilot confirmed where we were every so often, gave speed etc. Apologised for the few bumps but meant we had a nice tail wind and would get there earlier! Loved his sense of humour. Made it a really enjoyable flight!Areas with rivers and little lakes and occasional big ones appeared in Texas/Kansas? Circular fields disappeared. More trees. Some really big rivers! Fascinating patterns of trees/vegetation. Like huge drawings of trees. So pretty!Later passed over town/city where the pattern of roads and houses in suburbs looked almost like Inca drawings - captain announced it was Indianapolis just as I was wondering!Soon after some white cotton wool clouds added interest to the scenery, but not for long! Such a glorious day everywhere. Then landscape became hills with rivers and roads between. But no agricultural land visible. Huge area! Then huge forested areas, flatter for a while, then hills again (148 miles from Baltimore -start of descent). All became flat apart from a few high ridges. Civilisation started appearing and a smallish airport. Started to get a bit more excited about seeing Baltimore!

DAY FORTY-FOUR – 3rd NOVEMBER