WOOD TRIM - EXTERIOR ............................................................................................ 82
WOOD TRIM - INTERIOR ............................................................................................ 83
GIVE US YOUR IDEAS!................................................................................................ 84
YOUR PATH CONTINUES ........................................................................................... 85
Jan-19 3
AIR CONDITIONING & HEATING SYSTEM
Since your air conditioning system is combined with your heating system, the maintenance suggested for your air handler should be followed. In addition, the manufacturer's Owners Manual section on maintenance for the "condenser" unit should be reviewed and followed.
Your air conditioning and heating system can greatly add to the comfort of
your home, but it can be used improperly or inefficiently, resulting in wasted energy and homeowner frustration. These hints and suggestions are provided to help you make the best use of your system.
Efficient Cooling
To efficiently use your air conditioning system, you must understand that
it’s a total, whole-house system. The air conditioner unit is the mechanism in your home that removes humidity and provides cooler air. The air conditioning system affects everything inside your home including, for example, your drapes and windows.
Your home air conditioning is a closed system, meaning that the interior
air is continually recycled and cooled until the desired air temperature is reached. Warm outside air disrupts the system and makes cooling impossible, so you should keep all windows closed. The heat from the sun shining through windows where drapes are open is intense enough to overcome the air conditioning unit’s cooling effect. If you leave your home for more than ten days, your drapes/blinds should be left closed.
Time is important in getting desired results from your air conditioning
system. Unlike a light bulb that reacts instantly when you turn on a switch, your air conditioning unit only begins to cool when you set the thermostat. For example, you come home at 5:30 p.m. on a day when the temperature has reached 90 degrees and set your thermostat to 75 degrees. The air conditioning unit will begin cooling, but will take much longer to reach the desired temperature.
During the day the sun has been heating not only the air in the house, but
the walls, the carpet and the furniture. They release heat, countering the air conditioning’s cooling effects. By the time the air conditioning unit has cooled the walls, carpet and furniture, you may have lost patience.
If evening cooling is your primary goal, you should set the air conditioning
thermostat at a moderate temperature in the morning while the house is cooler, allowing the unit to maintain the cooler temperature through the day. The temperature setting may then be lowered slightly when you come home, with better cooling results.
Jan-19 4
The system installed in your home will provide you with many years of comfort if given proper care and maintenance.
Your system was designed with a furnished home in mind. If you move in
during the cooler part of the year and haven’t yet installed all of your draperies and furnishings, the home may seem cooler to you than you’d expect.
You should be aware of the performance characteristics unique to these
systems. As with any system, read the manufacturer’s information and follow all instructions for efficient operation and maintenance of your system.
Temperature
Your air conditioner should be capable of maintaining a temperature of 78
degrees, or a differential of 15 degrees from the outside temperature, measured in the center of each room. Lower temperature settings are often possible, but are not promised by the manufacturer or The Villages.
Normal temperature variations from floor to ceiling, depending on the
style of your home, can be as much as ten degrees or more on extremely cold days. The furnace blower will typically operate for a longer period of time during severe cold spells.
Use & Care
Ductwork
The exact placement of heat ducts may vary slightly from those positions
shown in similar floor plans.
Although the system is not a "sealed system,” the ductwork should remain attached and securely fastened. If it becomes unattached, The Villages will repair as needed for the first two years. However, you’re responsible for repair of any damage caused by work performed in your attic by personnel not employed by The Villages.
Registers
Registers will require adjustment from time to time to maximize your
family’s comfort. Don’t completely close off more than one supply register at a time. This can restrict the air flow too much and reduce the efficiency of the system. When heating your home, a good technique is to completely open all the vents, and then gradually move the temperature setting up until the coolest room is comfortable. Once the coolest room is comfortable, gradually close the vents in the warmer rooms until all rooms are comfortable as well. Reverse this process for air conditioning. Warning: Completely closing more than one grille can adversely affect the operation of the cooling and heating system.
Register covers are removable and adjustable. You’re responsible for
adjusting the dampers in these covers to regulate the flow of air within the home.
Jan-19 5
In particular, some rooms farther away from the furnace will sometimes need to have vents opened more.
Return Air Vents
For maximum comfort and efficient energy use, place furniture and
draperies so that they don’t obstruct the air flow from registers and cold air returns.
Thermostat
Your thermostats are calibrated to within plus or minus five degrees.
Setting the thermostat to a higher temperature will not heat the home faster, nor will a lower setting cool the home quicker.
Maintenance
Good maintenance of the heating system can save energy dollars, as well
as prolonging the life of the system. Carefully read and follow the manufacturer's literature on use and care, since the guidelines provided here include only general information. We recommend that you enter into a service agreement with your system’s installer or other reputable licensed heating/cooling company.
Air Circulation Across Coils
Keep the outside unit clear of any materials that would interfere with air
circulation. Landscaping materials, trash, leaves and other accumulating items can cause inefficiency or damage the unit.
Compressor
Maintain the air conditioner’s compressor in a level position. If it "settles"
during the first year, The Villages will correct this. After the first year, you must maintain it.
Condensation Line
Next to your air handler, located in either your utility room or garage,
there is a white condensation line with a PVC cap. Twice a year you should pour one gallon of warm water down into the line to keep it free from algae, mold, etc.
Filter
Remember to change or clean the filter every 6 months or as instructed
by installer. A clogged filter can slow air flow and cause cold spots in your home. Although it takes less than one minute to change the filter, this is one of the most frequently-overlooked details of normal furnace care. We recommend you buy filters in large quantities for convenience.
Jan-19 6
Trial Run
Have a trial run early in the spring to test your air conditioning system, as well as early in the fall to test your heating system. If service is needed, it’s much more convenient to discover it before you really need it.
Manufacturer's Warranty
Refer to your manufacturer’s limited warranty for information regarding
Your appliances come with instruction manuals and warranty cards. Read the manuals and keep them available for reference.
If a problem occurs with an appliance, call the corresponding
manufacturer’s service number directly
Whirlpool: 1-866-233-8547 During the hours of 8am to 8pm Monday through Friday or email [email protected]
GE: 1-800-GE-CARES (1-800-432-2737)
During the hours of 7am to 10pm Monday Through Friday and 8am-6pm weekends
When requesting warranty service from the appliance manufacturer, be
prepared to supply the following information:
D The date of purchase (closing date).
D Your name, address and phone number where you can be reached during business hours.
D Your home site number and street address.
D The serial and model numbers (found on a metal plate or seal on
the side or bottom of each appliance).
D A complete description of the problem. Questions Regarding Operation and Maintenance
http://www.whirlpool.com/home.jsp
http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/
Manufacturer's Warranty
All appliance warranties are assigned to you at closing. The appliances are warranted directly to you according to the terms and conditions of the written warranties supplied by the manufacturers. The manufacturer of kitchen appliances will work directly with you if any repairs are needed for these products.
For your convenience, use the following chart to record the appliance serial and model numbers, along with manufacturer customer service phone numbers, for each of your appliances. When you need warranty service, the information will be right at your fingertips.
Appliance Name Serial Number Model Number
Name of Appliance Manufacturer Area Code/Phone Number
Jan-19 9
ATTIC ACCESS
Use & Care
Access is provided to maintain mechanical equipment that may traverse the attic space. Most attic space is not intended for storage. When performing any needed tasks in the attic, use caution not to step off wood members onto the drywall. This can result in personal injury and/or damage to the ceiling below.
6/16 10
BRASS FIXTURES
Use & Care
Most brass fixtures are factory-treated with a clear protective coating, electrostatically applied, to provide beauty and durability. This coating should be left intact.
Brass, like sterling silver, will gradually tarnish and eventually take on an
antique appearance. Atmospheric conditions, direct sunlight, caustic agents such as paints, or scratches from contact with sharp objects may cause the protective coating to crack or peel, exposing the natural brass and resulting in spotting and discoloration.
Initial care for brass products requires only periodic cleaning with mild
non-abrasive soap and buffing with a soft cloth. When peeling, spotting or discoloration occurs, you can restore the beauty of the metal by completely removing the remaining coating and hand polishing the item with a suitable brass polish, then applying a light coat of wax and buffing with a soft cloth to renew and maintain the gloss of the brass surface. If discoloration reappears, repeat the cleaning, polishing and waxing processes.
Generally speaking, unless you’ve purchased very high-end, expensive
solid brass fixtures, the brass on your fixtures is only a coating on top of a less expensive base metal.
Corrosion damage to the external surfaces or internal workings of
plumbing fixtures is excluded from warranty coverage..
6/16 11
CABINETS
Use & Care
If hinges catch or drawer glides become sluggish, a small amount of lubricant will improve their action.
Color, Style, Wood Grain
Your Home Sales addendum is your record of the brand, style and color of
cabinets in your home. Wood cabinets are a natural hardwood product, with characteristics that make every cabinet both beautiful and unique. All hardwoods have their own personality, and variation in color, textures and grain patterns are an inherent part of this natural material.
Natural hardwood variations often include distinctive grain patterns or
unusual shadings in color. These reflect the "life history" of the tree and contribute to the unique look of your cabinets. As with other natural materials, your hardwood cabinets will be affected by environmental factors such as natural and artificial lighting, so you can expect to see the color gradually change and mellow over time.
Due to the unique qualities inherent in the natural hardwoods used in this
cabinetry, neither the industry nor The Villages can be responsible for the actual degree of variation that may characterize your cabinetry.
Laminates
Periodically clean the interior and exterior surfaces of the cabinet doors
using a soft, dampened cloth. Tough stains may be cleaned using a soft dampened cloth with "409" or other type cleaner.
Wood
The finish of your cabinets is designed for daily use. All wood surfaces
should be cleaned with a damp, soft cloth moistened with pure soapsuds (not detergent), then wiped dry with another soft cloth. Note: Do not use detergents, ammonia, soap pads, steel wool, or other harsh, abrasive materials on your cabinetry. Using these materials will void your warranty. With all cabinets, you should take a little extra care on bottom edges of base cabinets and base cabinet doors where invisible moisture often collects.
Remove dust from wood cabinets frequently using a soft lint-free cloth.
The cloth may be slightly dampened with water or a spray-type dust remover. Clean spills immediately, using a clean cloth and mild soap if necessary. Wipe dry with a clean soft cloth.
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We recommend that you wash and polish cabinets once or twice a year, using a light coat of quality furniture polish. Don’t use a paste wax, because the wax build-up is difficult to remove and will leave a residue that attracts dust and moisture. Also, polishes that contain silicone shouldn’t be used.
Adjustments
Cabinets should operate properly under normal use. Doors, drawer fronts,
and handles should be level and even. Door and drawer adjustments will be made by The Villages for the first thirty days. After that period, it will be your responsibility. Adjustments may be made according to the following standards:
Alignment
Doors, drawer fronts, and handles should be level and even.
Operation
Cabinets should operate properly under normal use.
Separations
We will correct gaps between cabinets and the ceiling or cabinets and the
walls by caulking or other means if the gap exceeds 1/8 inch (locations behind appliances are excepted from this repair.
Surface Damage
During your Home Review, we’ll confirm the good condition of all
cabinetry. Warping
If doors or drawer fronts warp in excess of 1/8 inch within 24 inches, we
will correct this by adjustment or replacement. Wood Grain
Readily noticeable variations in wood grain and color are normal in all
wood or wood veneer selections. Replacements are not made due to such variations.
You can add years to the life of your carpet with regular care. Carpet wears
out because of foot traffic and dirt particles that get trampled deep into the pile beyond the suction of the vacuum. The dirt particles wear down the fibers like sandpaper and dull the carpet. The most important thing you can do to protect your carpet is to vacuum it frequently.
Vacuum twice each week lightly and once a week thoroughly. Heavy traffic
areas may require more frequent cleaning. A light vacuuming is three passes; a thorough job may need seven passes. A vacuum cleaner with a beater-bar agitates the pile and is more effective in bringing dirt to the surface for easy removal.
Vacuuming high-traffic areas daily helps keep them clean and maintains
the upright position of the nap. Wipe spills and clean stains immediately. For best results, blot or dab any spill or stain; avoid rubbing. Test stain removers on an out-of-the-way area of the carpet, such as in a closet, to check for any undesirable effects. Have your carpet professionally cleaned regularly, usually once a year.
Burns
Take care of any kind of burn immediately. First snip off the darkened
fibers. Then use a soapless cleaner and sponge with water. If the burn is extensive, talk with a professional about replacing the damaged spot.
Crushing
Furniture and traffic may crush a carpet’s pile fibers. Frequent vacuuming
in high-traffic areas and glides or cups under heavy pieces of furniture can help prevent this. Rotating your furniture to change the traffic pattern in a room promotes more even wear. Some carpets resist matting and crushing because of their level of fiber, but this does not imply or guarantee that no matting or crushing will occur. Heavy traffic areas such as halls and stairways are more susceptible to wear and crushing. This is considered normal wear.
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Fading
Science has yet to develop a color that will not fade with time. All carpet will slowly lose some color due to natural and artificial forces in the environment. You can delay this process by frequently removing soil with vacuuming, regularly changing air filters in heating and air conditioning systems, keeping humidity and room temperature from getting too high, and reducing sunlight exposure with window coverings.
Filtration
If interior doors are kept closed while the air conditioning is operating, air
circulation from the closed room flows through the small space at the bottom of the door. This forces the air over the carpet fibers, which in turn act as a filter, catching particulate pollution. Over time, a noticeable stain develops at the threshold.
Fuzzing
In loop carpets, fibers may break. Simply clip the excess fibers. If it
continues, call a professional. Pilling
Pilling or small balls of fiber can appear on your carpet, depending on the
type of carpet fiber and the type of traffic. If this occurs, clip off the pills. If they cover a large area, seek professional advice.
Rippling
With wall-to-wall carpeting, high humidity may cause rippling. If the
carpet remains rippled after the humidity has left, have a professional re-stretch the carpeting using a power stretcher, not a knee-kicker.
Seams
Carpet usually comes in 12-foot widths, making seams necessary in most
rooms. Visible seams are not a defect unless they have been improperly made or unless the material has a defect, making the seam appear more pronounced than normal. The more dense and uniform the carpet texture, the more visible the seams will be. Carpet with low, tight naps result in the most visible seams.
Seams are never more visible than when the carpet is first installed.
Usually with time, use, and vacuuming the seams become less visible. You can see examples of how carpet seams diminish after they’ve been vacuumed and have experienced traffic in the model homes.
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Shading
Shading is an inherent quality of fine-cut pile carpets. Household traffic causes pile fibers to assume different angles; as a result, the carpet appears darker and lighter in these areas. A good vacuuming, which makes the pile all go in the same direction, provides a temporary remedy.
Shedding
New carpeting, especially pile, sheds bits of fiber for a period of time.
Eventually, these loose fibers are removed by vacuuming. Shedding usually occurs more with wool carpeting than with nylon or other synthetics.
Snags
Sharp-edged objects can grab or snag the carpet fiber. When this occurs,
cut off the snag. If the snag is especially large, call a professional. Sprouting
Occasionally you may find small tufts of fiber sprouting above the carpet
surface. Simply use scissors to cut off the sprout. Don’t attempt to pull it, because other fibers will come out in the process.
Stains
No carpet is stainproof. Although your carpet manufacturer designates
your carpet as stain-resistant, some substances may still cause permanent staining. These include hair dyes, shoe polish, paints, and India ink. Some substances destroy or change the color of carpets, including bleaches, acne medications, drain cleaners, plant food, insecticides, and food or beverage with strongly colored natural dyes like those found in some brands of mustard, herbal tea, and coffee.
Refer to your carpet care and maintenance brochures for recommended
cleaning procedures for your particular fiber. Pretest any spot-removal solution in an inconspicuous area before using it in a large area. Apply several drops of the solution, hold a white tissue on the area, and count to ten. Examine both the tissue and carpet for dye transfer and check for carpet damage. For more information feel free to call the Mohawk Customer Care Center at (800) 266- 4295.
You should refer to your manufacturer's recommendations for additional
information on the care of all floor-covering products. Your Home Sales addendum provides a record of the brand, style, and color of floor coverings in your home. Please keep this information for future reference.
6/16 16
Outdoor carpeting
Although outdoor carpeting is designed to withstand damage due to outdoor weather conditions, it will need to be maintained. One of the biggest enemies of outdoor carpet is mildew. Mildew can result from water left standing on your carpet. If not maintained it will grow and damage the carpet permanently. If you have outdoor carpeting and plan on being away from your home for extended periods of time, make sure some one is checking for this.
Variations
During your Home Review, we will confirm the good condition of your
carpet. Stains or spots noted during your Home Review will be corrected by cleaning or patching. The Villages will not be responsible for dye lot variations if replacements are made.
While carpet seams will be visible, no gap or fraying is acceptable. Carpet
along molding and the edges of stairs should be held firmly in place. In some areas, metal or other edging material may be installed where carpet meets another floor covering. Carpet stretching will be performed as needed during the first year.
Time and weather will shrink caulking and dry it out so that it no longer provides a good seal against moisture and air infiltration. For routine maintenance, you should check the caulking and make repairs as needed. Caulking compounds and dispenser guns are available at hardware stores. Caulking is a maintenance item and is your responsibility.
There are different types of caulks for different types of uses:
D Silicone Caulk - contains silicone; won’t accept paint, but
works best where water is present (i.e., where a tub meets tile or a sink meets a countertop).
D Latex Caulk - appropriate for an area that requires painting
(where baseboards meet the wall or flooring, or where a countertop backsplash meets the wall).
D Colored Caulk - available in larger hardware stores.
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CERAMIC TILE
Use & Care
The ceramic tile installed on walls or countertops in your home may be washed with any nonabrasive soap or detergent. Abrasive cleaners will dull the finish.
Ceramic tile floors are one of the easiest of floor coverings to care for.
Simply vacuum when necessary, occasionally using a wet mop with warm water. Do not add detergent to the water. If you feel a cleaning agent is required, use a mild solution of warm water and a mild cleaner like Spic and Span. Do not use soaps as they may result in a heavy, difficult to remove lather on the grout. Rinse thoroughly.
Grout Discoloration
Grout that becomes yellowed or stained can be cleaned with a fiber brush,
cleanser and water. Grout cleansers and whiteners are available at most hardware stores.
Sealing Grout
It’s a homeowner decision whether or not to seal grout, and will be your
responsibility. You should be aware that once grout has been sealed, that seal will require continued maintenance. In addition, sealing grout may alter the color and/or the appearance of the grout.
Separations
It’s natural for slight separations to occur in the grout between tiles. This
grout is for decorative purposes only, and doesn’t hold the tile in place. If separation occurs, contact your local tile company for assistance.
Color Variations; Cracks
During your Home Review, we’ll confirm the good condition of all tile and
grout. If repairs are made, The Villages is not responsible for variations in tile color or discontinued patterns. New grout used for repair purposes may vary in color from the original.
Cracks in the grouting of ceramic tiles at joints or junctions with other
materials are common due to normal shrinkage conditions. The Villages will repair grouting, if necessary, one time only during the first year. You will be responsible for any grouting or caulking that is needed after that time.
6/16 19
CONCRETE
Use & Care Chemicals
Protect concrete from abuse by chemical agents such as pet urine,
fertilizers, radiator or battery acid overflow. All of these items can cause spalling (chipping or flaking) of concrete.
A concrete sealer, available at paint stores, will help you keep an
unpainted concrete floor clean. Don’t use soap on unpainted concrete. Use plain water or hot water and washing soda, or for heavier cleaning use a scouring powder.
Control Joints
While control joints or cuts have been used to help control expansion,
concrete is also susceptible to shrinking. When concrete shrinks, moisture can get under it and lift the expansion joint. If this occurs, you can fill the gap created with a gray silicone sealant, purchased at most hardware stores.
Discoloration
Concrete will always be produced with some variation in the color of the
finished product. Many factors affect it’s finished appearance, including humidity and moisture. A concrete finish needs at least one year to cure completely.
While some discoloration is normal and to be expected, in the most severe
cases some finishes will remain discolored. The U. S. government has subsidized a number of university studies on the discoloration and cracking of cement. As of this time, they have been unable to create a concrete product that is resistant to these issues. Therefore, The Villages must exclude concrete discoloration from warranty coverage.
Flat Work
Although we use accepted construction procedures for the installation of
concrete flat work, this doesn’t guarantee there won’t be cracking. Some concrete cracking occurs in almost all homes, and the warranty excludes most concrete cracks. Where cracking is covered by the warranty, the repair provided is to seal the crack with concrete caulk. Concrete is not replaced due to cracking. Note: You are responsible for touching up the paint on decorated concrete after authorized repairs are made to cracked concrete.
Don’t let heavy vehicles such as moving vans or concrete trucks drive on
your concrete work. Residential concrete isn’t designed to bear the weight of this type of vehicle.
6 /16 20
Foundation
The foundation of your home has been designed and installed according to our consulting engineer’s recommendations. Even though the foundation has been designed by an engineer and constructed according to engineering requirements, cracks can still develop in the slab and are not detrimental to the structural integrity of your home.
By maintaining good drainage away from your home, you’re protecting
your home's foundation and floor slab. Maintaining the drainage away from all concrete slabs will minimize cracking and other forms of movement. Any cracks found in slabs should be sealed with a waterproof concrete caulk to prevent moisture from penetrating to the soil beneath.
Cracking
There are some factors that contribute to cracking over which we have no
control, such as unequal sub-grade settlement, sewers and water ditches.
It’s impossible to prevent cracking in concrete walks, driveways, porches, steps, etc., because of the nature of the material. However, under normal conditions of weathering and use, concrete surfaces shouldn’t disintegrate to the extent that the aggregate is exposed and loosened.
Shrinkage or cracks are common in foundation walls, especially at the
corners. The Villages will repair, as needed, cracks in foundation walls which are in excess of 1/8 inch in width, provided you have complied with drainage and landscaping requirements.
Cosmetic Imperfections
Slight cosmetic imperfections in foundation walls, such as a visible seam
where two pours meet or slight honeycombing (aggregate visible) are possible and require no repair. The color of finished concrete may vary significantly and is excluded from warranty coverage.
Flat Work
Flat work includes home and garage floors, porch, patio, driveway, and
sidewalk. Concrete slabs for your home are usually monolithic. The home slab is poured at the same time as the foundation.
Concrete flat work isn’t warranted against cracking, and concrete slabs
aren’t replaced because of cracking.
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Garage Slab
The garage slab is usually of monolithic design and poured along with the house slab and related foundations. The Villages will seal cracks that reach ¼ inch in width one time during the first year. Thereafter, this is one of your maintenance responsibilities. The Villages will correct cracks that exceed ¼ inch by surface patching or other methods.
Grade Changes
If you make changes in grading, drainage, and landscape design or fail to
perform needed maintenance that results in damage, we will suggest corrective measures. However, you will be responsible for making those corrections.
Settling or Heaving
Moderate settling, heaving, and/or cracking of porch or patio slabs can
require cosmetic repairs, which The Villages will provide one time during the first year. Excessive settling, heaving (over 1 inch) and/or cracking should be reported to the Service Department so an inspection can be made. Settling, heaving, or cracking is excessive if it results in drainage toward the house, or hazardous vertical displacement.
Spalling
Repeated hosing of concrete for cleaning animal urine, radiator overflow
or fertilizer are some of the causes of spalling (chipping and flaking). The Villages isn’t responsible for the repair of spalling caused by these conditions.
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CONCRETE PAVERS
Use and Care
The Villages uses a sealer on concrete pavers which slightly alters their appearance. To maintain this look sealing your pavers may need to be done periodically as the sheen diminishes. Your pavers are also installed using sand between the joints of the pavers.
Adding sand periodically to the joints may be necessary to keep them securely in place.
Pavers are used in ports, heavy-duty industrial areas, parking lots, streets, shopping centers, plazas, parks, sidewalks, swimming pool decks, driveways, walkways and patios. Concrete pavers add style, quality and a designer’s touch to just about any paved surface. Color
Concrete pavers are manufactured in batches. Due to the inherent qualities of the natural raw materials used in manufacturing it is likely that colors may very slightly from batch to batch.
Efflorescence
A condition in all cement-based products that is not a warranty item. This is a whitish, powder like deposit on the surface that may appear randomly or in certain areas. There is no reason to be concerned that your pavers are damaged or defective. It is a result of the reaction of calcium hydroxide a byproduct of cement hydration with carbon dioxide found in the air. The concrete pavers are experiencing a natural process. Just as it appears naturally, efflorescence will eventually disappear. Cleaners are also available to remove efflorescence such as Techniseal Paver Prep.
Surface texture
ICPI Tech Spec number 13 states slip resistance for pedestrians and skid resistance of tires on the road are important to safety. For this reason, the ICPI states pavers are not meant to be smooth on the surface and the texture may vary slightly from batch to batch.
Minor cracks, chips and scratches
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Incidental to the usual methods of manufacturer, shipping, handling and installation shall not be grounds for rejection. Since pavers are manufactured with various sized aggregates, it is possible that small pieces of aggregate may become dislodged from the surface. This does not mean the paver is defective or damaged.
Exposed Aggregates
Pavers are composed of Portland cement, fine and course aggregates. During the manufacturing process it is possible that a small percentage of the aggregate on the surface may be exposed. Pavers with textured or profiled tops, are susceptible to minor scratches from plate compactors due to the high and low points that are molded into the surface during installation. Compaction is a necessary step in the installation process. This condition will mellow with time adding to the natural appearance.
The following techniques and cleaners that you should stay away from:
1. Improper use of a high pressure washer wand for cleaning can permanently scar the surface of the paver with streaks and lines when held too close. A hard surface cleaner/hover cover is a better tool to use when pressure washing.
2. Strong acidic cleaners or Muriatic Acid will etch or derogate the surface. Always confirm that any cleaners used are compatible with concrete pavers.
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COUNTERTOPS
Use & Care
Always use a cutting board when cutting, chopping, etc. Protect the countertop from heat and extremely hot pans. A good rule of thumb is if you can’t put your hand on it, don’t put it on the countertop. Don’t use countertops as ironing boards and keep cigarettes in an ashtray.
Rubber drain mats can trap moisture beneath them, causing the laminated
plastic to warp and blister. Dry the surface as needed. Wax isn’t necessary, but can be used to make counters gleam.
The caulking between your countertop’s backsplash and the wall, and
between the countertop and the sink may shrink and leave a slight gap. Refer to "Caulking" for maintenance hints for this condition. During your Home Review, we’ll confirm the good condition of countertop caulking. All caulking after that time will be your responsibility.
The decorative surface may be cleaned with warm water and mild soaps,
such as those used for hands or dishes. Don’t use cleaners that contain abrasives, acids or alkalis, i.e. Soft Scrub, Comet, etc., because they will damage the decorative surface. Remove stubborn stains with a 1 1/2-minute exposure to hypochlorite bleach, such as Clorox, followed by a clean water rinse.
Avoid allowing any of the following substances to remain in contact with
the decorative surface:
D Hypochlorite bleach, except as described above
D Hydrogen peroxide solution
D Mineral acids, hydrochloric acid such as Lime-A-Way, sulfuric or nitric acid
D Lye solutions containing 1% or 2% lye, such as Drano
D Sodium bisulfate, such as Sani-Flush
D Potassium permanganate
D Berry juices
D Silver nitrate, in 1% concentration
D Gentain violet
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D Mild silver protein, such as 20% argyrol
D Bluing
D Fabric dye, such as Tintex or Rit Shrinkage
Separations of countertops at walls and the backsplash are the result of
normal shrinkage of materials. Separation at the wall or at the counter in excess of 1/16 inch will be repaired by caulking and subsequently will be your responsibility. It’s important to keep moisture from reaching the wood under the laminates in order to prevent warping.
Cosmetic Damage
During your Home Review, we’ll confirm the good condition of all
countertops and caulking. Laminates
Laminated countertops typically will have one or more discernible seams,
however there should be no gap at the seams. Gaps at seams or differential at other joints in excess of 1/16 inch will be repaired. The Villages will determine all seam locations, unless you make specific requests at the time of home order.
Man-made Marble
Man-made products, such as Corian® countertops, should be installed
without chips or gouges. Edges should be smooth and even. Where backsplash joints occur at corners, the top edges should be even within 1/16 inch.
To clean man-made marble, use non-abrasive products such as
Lime Away, Windex, and Tilex. You can even wax the marble. Granite Counter Tops
A good stone soap or stone polish should be used for ongoing
maintenance. Do not use abrasive cleansers or harsh ammonia-based cleaners. If you do not have access to stone maintenance products, a mild soap such as dishwashing soap and water will suffice.
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COURTYARD WALLS
Masonry
Use & Care
Like your home, the courtyard wall will experience cracking.
Your walls will require more maintenance than your home. Lawn
equipment will be your worst enemy, so take special care not to nick or scrape your walls when you’re mowing. A touch-up kit is left with each home and it is your responsibility to make these repairs.
Re-coating of your walls may need to be done every year. As on your
home, use top quality paint or coating. If you’re going to use a painting contractor, we suggest you get two or three estimates for comparison.
Non-structural cracks will be repaired one time towards the end of the first year. As with any repair, The Villages cannot guarantee exact color match.
Vinyl Screen Walls Use & Care
The vinyl courtyard walls around your home have a one year limited
warranty. You will experience very few problems with this product; however, the lawn edger and golf balls may cause damage. These repairs are your responsibility.
Clean your wall yearly with a mild detergent to remove any dirt or mold.
Stacked Block Use & Care
Like your home, the courtyard wall may experience cracking. Unlike your
home cracking, your stack block does not require maintenance. Expansion cuts throughout your wall are installed to help reduce the likelihood of random cracking in your wall.
Washing your walls periodically will be required to maintain its
appearance.
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DOORS/LOCKS
Use & Care
The interior doors installed in your home are wood products and subject to the natural characteristics of wood such as shrinkage and warping. Due to humidity changes, as well as the use of showers and dishwashers, etc., interior doors may require minor adjustments. Putty, filler, or latex caulk can be used to fill any minor separations that may develop at mitered joints in door trim, followed by painting.
Slamming doors can damage both doors and jambs, and can even cause
cracking in walls. Teach children not to hang on the doorknob and swing back and forth, which can work hardware loose and cause the door to sag.
Doorknobs and locks should operate correctly. Some slight adjustments
may be needed due to normal shrinkage of the framing. The Villages will make these adjustments one time during the first year.
Bifold Doors
Interior bifolds will sometimes stick or warp due to weather conditions.
Apply a silicone lubricant to the tracks to minimize this situation. Exterior Finish
To insure longer life for your exterior doors, we recommend that you
refinish them annually. Stained exterior doors with clear finishes tend to weather faster than a painted door. It’s also necessary to reseal stained exterior doors whenever the finish begins cracking.
Hinges
Removing the hinge pin and rubbing a lead pencil or graphite lubricant on
it can remedy a squeaky door hinge. Don’t use oil, as it can gum up. Keys
Keep a duplicate "privacy lock" key where children can’t reach it in the
event a youngster locks himself/herself in a room. The top edge of the door casing is often used as a place to keep the key. Some types of privacy locks can be opened with a small screwdriver or similarly shaped device.
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Latches
If a door will not latch due to minor settling, it can be corrected by making a new opening in the jamb for the latch plate (mortising) and raising or lowering the plate accordingly.
Locks
Lubricate door locks with graphite or other waterproof lubricant. Avoid
oil, as it will gum up. To keep the knob, deadlock, lever, or handset finish clean, use a soft, damp cloth only. Gently rub dry with a soft, dry cloth. To help protect your lock’s finish, periodically use a non-abrasive carnuba wax or a non lemon furniture wax, such as Pledge.
The most common cause of a sticking door is the natural expansion of lumber due to changes in humidity. When sticking is due to swelling from dampness, wait and see if it continues to stick during drier weather before planing the door. Before planing a door due to sticking, there are two other steps to try: first, apply either a paste wax, light coat of paraffin, or candle wax to the sticking surface; then tighten the screws that hold the doorjamb or doorframe.
If these remedies fail to correct the sticking, you will need to plane the
door. After planing, use sandpaper to smooth the door, and be certain to repaint the area of the door where it was sanded to seal against moisture.
Threshold
There are a number of factors that go into determining whether water will
penetrate the threshold. An independent laboratory under a controlled environment determined that a 37 mile per hour driving rain can infiltrate. This does not mean that there will be a leak, only that there is a potential for it.
Warping
In the event, a door warps slightly, keep it latched as much as possible and
often it will return to normal. Weather Stripping
Weather stripping and/or any threshold supplied with exterior doors will
occasionally require adjustment or replacement. Weather stripping is excluded from warranty coverage and is a routine maintenance item.
Due to normal settling of the home, doors may require adjustment for proper fit. During your Home Review, we’ll confirm the good condition of all doors and locks. Touch up paint or stain on unfinished areas that are exposed as a result of normal shrinking/expanding will be your responsibility. Split panels that allow light to be visible will be corrected by The Villages for one year after closing.
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DRYWALL
Use & Care
Slight cracking, nail "pops" and/or seams may become visible in walls and ceilings. The shrinkage of the wood and normal deflection of rafters to which the drywall is attached causes these situations.
Most drywall repairs can be easily made, and are best done when
redecorating. To correct a nail pop, reset the nail with a hammer and punch. Cover it by applying two or three thin coats of spackling compound, available at paint and hardware stores. When dry, sand the surface with fine grain sandpaper before painting.
Indentations caused by sharp objects can be filled with spackling
compound in the same manner. Hairline cracks can be repaired with a coat of paint, and slightly larger cracks can be repaired with spackling compound or caulk.
Please remember that vinyl wallpaper can trap moisture between drywall and wallpaper and may cause a mildew problem. The Villages does not recommend the use of this kind of wallpaper.
Repairs
Variations that are only visible under particular lighting conditions do not
require repairs. If the drywall repair is required as a result of poor workmanship (such as blisters in tape), or other warranty-based repair (such as a plumbing leak), The Villages will complete the repair of the area damaged with original paint. You will be responsible for custom paint colors or wallpaper applied after closing. Paint touch-up may not match the surrounding area. Wallpaper dye lot variations will be your responsibility.
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ELECTRICAL
Use & Care Arc Fault Breaker
The Arc Fault Breaker is a new type circuit breaker with additional circuit
protection, which mitigates the effects of an arcing fault. It is labeled as an Arc Fault Breaker in your panel box and has a little yellow button on it. It is very sensitive to any type of power surge or static electricity.
All appliances should be in the off position before plugging in. If not, it may cause the breaker to trip.
Resetting the breaker is simple but does take some strength. You must push the button to the OFF position and then with a lot of force push it to the ON position. If you only go straight to the ON position it will not reset. If it doesn’t work the first time you must try again and use a little more force.
Resetting the Arc Fault Breaker as well as any other breaker is excluded from warranty.
Buzzing
Fluorescent fixtures use transformer action to operate them, sometimes
causing a buzzing. This is normal and should not cause alarm. Dedicated Circuits
Many appliances, power tools, and other devices that require substantial
electrical loads should be on a dedicated circuit. If you need to add such a circuit, contact a licensed electrical contractor.
Fluctuation in Power
Fluctuation in power is a normal phenomenon, and lights may dim when
certain appliances (i.e. vacuums, blow dryers, AC) are connected. GFCI (Ground Fault Current Interrupter)
GFCI receptacles have a built-in element that senses fluctuations in power.
Quite simply, the GFCI is an indoor circuit breaker. Installation of these receptacles in bathrooms, kitchen, outside, and garage (areas where an individual can come into contact with water while holding an electric appliance or tool) is required by building codes. Heavy appliances such as freezers, power tools and possibly golf carts will trip the GFCI breaker.
Do not plug a refrigerator or food freezer into a GFCI controlled outlet. If
you do, it’s very likely that these appliances will trip the GFCI breaker and the contents will be ruined. Such damage is not covered by the limited warranty. We recommend you install a dedicated GFCI circuit for these outlets.
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Each GFCI receptacle has a test and reset button. Once each month, you should press the test button, tripping the circuit. To return the circuit to service, simply press the reset button. If a GFCI breaker trips during normal use, the appliance you’re using may be faulty and should be checked. An important point to remember is that one GFCI breaker can control up to five or six outlets in your home.
Ground
Your electrical system is a three-wire grounded system. Never remove the
bare wire that connects to the box or device. Master Control Panel
The master control panel contains the electrical breakers for your home.
The control panel includes a main shut off that controls all the electrical power to your home. In addition, individual breakers control the separate circuits. You will need to become familiar with the location of the master control panel.
Each breaker is marked to help you identify which breaker is connected to
which major appliance, outlet or other service. Should a failure occur in any part of your home, always check the breakers in the main panel box first.
Modifications
Please don’t tamper with or add to your electrical system. If any
modification is needed, contact a licensed electrician. Tripped Circuit Breakers
Circuit breakers have three positions — on, off and tripped. When a circuit
breaker trips, you must first turn it off before it can be turned back on. Switching the breaker directly from “tripped” to “on” will not restore service.
If an outlet isn’t working, first check to see if it’s controlled by a wall
switch. Next, check the breaker. If the outlet is in a wet area such as a bath, kitchen, and garage or outside, refer to the “GFCI” section above.
Breakers will often trip because circuits are overloaded by having too
many appliances plugged into it, because a cord is worn, because an item is defective, or because an appliance with too high a voltage requirement is being operated. Starting an electric motor can also trip a breaker.
If any circuit trips repeatedly, unplug all items connected to it and reset
the circuit breaker. If the circuit trips when nothing is connected to it, you will need an electrician and should immediately report the problem. If the circuit breaker remains on, one of the items you’ve unplugged is defective and needs repair or replacement.
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Underground Cables
In areas with underground utilities, you must check the location of buried service leads by calling the local utility locating service before you dig or move large amounts of soil. In most cases wires run in a straight line from the service panel to the nearest public utility pad. Take care to protect this service by keeping the soil around your foundation from settling and avoid allowing large amounts of water to stand at this location.
Unused Outlets
If there are small children visiting your home, you should install safety
plugs to cover any unused outlets. This will also minimize air filtration that can sometimes occur with these outlets. Teach children never to touch electrical outlets, sockets or fixtures.
Repairs
Any electrical wiring that fails to carry its designed load will be repaired to
meet specifications for a period of two years. If electrical outlets, switches or fixtures do not function as intended, The Villages will repair or replace them for a period of one year. Light fixtures are installed in the locations indicated on the house plans and will not be moved by The Villages. All fixtures are installed with 60 watt bulbs or specified decorator bulbs. You’re responsible for replacing any burned out bulbs.
Fixtures noted as damaged on the Homeowner’s Checklist will be repaired
or replaced. Fixtures or ceiling fans that you supply are excluded from warranty coverage.
Power Surge
Power surges are the result of local conditions beyond the control of The
Villages. These can result in burned out bulbs or damage to sensitive electronic equipment such as TV's, alarm systems, computers, etc. Damage to the electronic equipment from power surges is not covered by our Limited Warranty.
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EXPANSION/CONTRACTION
All building materials are subject to the expansion and contraction caused by changes in temperature and humidity. Dissimilar materials expand or contract at different rates, resulting in separation between materials — particularly dissimilar ones. The effects can be seen in small cracks in drywall and in paint, especially where moldings meet drywall, at mitered corners, where tile grout meets tub or sink, etc.
This can be alarming to an uninformed homeowner, but in fact is normal.
Shrinkage of the wood members of your home is inevitable, and will occur in your home. It will be most noticeable during the first year, but may continue beyond that time. In most cases, paint and caulking are all that’s needed to conceal this minor evidence of a natural phenomenon. Properly installed caulking will shrink and maintaining caulking is your responsibility.
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EXTERIOR WALL FINISH (BLOCK/CONCRETE HOMES)
Use & Care
The exterior of your home is a skip-trowel finish, with a coating applied over it for waterproofing. This coating, which helps span common joint cracks, comes with a limited warranty and is manufactured by most paint companies.
The lawnmower and lawn tools are your home's worst enemies. Nicks and gouges caused by this equipment will damage the surface, allowing water to penetrate and causing failure of the coating. A touch-up kit is left in each home and it’s your responsibility to make these repairs.
Clean your home’s yearly with a mild detergent to help fight mildew growth. Several companies in the area offer help if you need assistance.
Your home’s paint coating has a One-Year Limited Warranty; however; you will most likely not have to re-coat before the third year. We suggest you evaluate the appearance of your home year by year. Because fading and discoloration will occur with age, you may want to re-coat before the three-year period. When you re-coat, be sure you use top quality paint for coating, and strictly follow the manufacturer's application instructions. Remember, this is the waterproofing for your home.
Non Structural Cracks
Your home is constructed with concrete blocks or concrete poured walls, mortar, steel, downpours and tie beams, according to the Southern Building Code. However, small non-structural cracks are not unusual in mortar joints and skip trowel finish application. The Villages will repair only one time during the One-Year period following closing by caulking or patching, followed by a paint touch-up. As with any repair, The Villages will not guarantee exact color match. We suggest these repairs be made towards the end of the first year to permit normal settling and stabilizing of the home.
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FIREPLACE Use & Care
Most of us feel a fireplace is an excellent way to create a warm, cozy
atmosphere. However, without sufficient information, the use of your fireplace can easily result in much heat (and many dollars) being wasted. To help you prevent that, we offer the following facts and suggestions.
Spark Arrestor
Have the spark arrestor cleaned professionally when needed. If the spark
arrestor becomes clogged, it will reduce airflow, affect the performance of the fireplace, and may be a fire hazard. You should have the arrestor cleaned professionally when needed.
Use
Fireplaces aren’t intended to be your home’s sole source of heat. The
fireplace should function properly when The Villages and the manufacturer's directions are followed.
Discoloration
Discoloration of the firebox or brick is the normal result of use and
requires no corrective action. Glass Doors
The good condition of glass doors, when included with the home, will be
confirmed during your Home Review. You should follow the manufacturer's instructions for using glass doors.
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GARAGE OVERHEAD DOOR
Use & Care
Since the garage door is a large, moving object, you will need to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and periodically maintain the door to ensure safe and reliable operation.
No one other than the operator should be near the door when it’s in
motion. Keep hands and fingers away from all parts of the door except the handle. Don’t allow children to play with, or around the door.
For your safety, after the one-year warranty has expired, have any needed
adjustments made by a qualified specialist. The door springs are under a considerable amount of tension and require special tools and knowledge for accurate and safe servicing. Be sure to have the door inspected by a professional service technician after any significant impact to the door.
Locks
If the lock becomes stiff, a graphite lubricant will make it work more
easily. Don’t use oil on a lock, because it will stiffen in cold weather and make the lock difficult to operate.
Lubrication
Lubricate all moving parts of the door with a light household oil such as WD40, including: *Lift cables at the bottom bracket button, *Bearing of the sheaves, *Lock hardware where surfaces turn or slide, *Full length of torsion spring to reduce friction between coils, *Lubricate steel rollers. DO NOT lubricate nylon rollers.
Opener
If an electric door operator is installed, be sure the door is completely
unlocked and the pull-down rope has been removed before using the operator. We recommend that you choose the company that installed your door to also install your opener. Installation of openers by others will void your Village Warranty on the garage doors.
The garage door should be repainted when the home is repainted, or more often if needed, to maintain the appearance of your home. Some doors are factory painted.
Sag
It’s normal for the garage door to sag somewhat due to its weight and span.
Wind Load
The large metal u-frame on the inside of the door is a part of the engineered door system, designed to resist high winds. Please do not remove it.
Adjustments
The garage door should operate smoothly and with reasonable ease. The
door can become misaligned and require adjustment, which The Villages will provide for one year.
Garage overhead doors cannot be airtight and typically some light will be
visible around the edges and across the top of the door. Severe weather conditions may result in some water entering around the door.
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GRADING & DRAINAGE
Use & Care
It’s essential that you maintain the slopes around your home so that the water will drain away from the home as rapidly as possible. Failure to do so can result in major structural damage and will void your warranty.
During construction, we must excavate an area larger than the foundation
of your home, and some trenching is done for utility line installation. Although the soil is replaced and re-compacted, it doesn’t return to its original density and some settling will occur — especially after prolonged or heavy rainfall. This can continue for the first few years you’re in your home, depending on the amount of rainfall and other factors. You should inspect the perimeter of your home regularly for signs of settling.
If you’ve ordered gutters and downspouts with your home, you should
install splash blocks under the downspouts to prevent erosion. Keep these in place at all times, sloped so the water quickly drains away from your home.
Backfill Settlement
Backfill or excavated areas around foundation and at utility trenches
should not interfere with the drainage away from the house. If these areas settle, The Villages will correct them one time during the first year.
Erosion
You are responsible for damage caused to barren yards by severe weather
after closing date. Rototilling
Rototilling the site will often significantly change drainage swales, as will
erosion that results from the site remaining barren for a long period. Any rototilling should be done parallel to the swales rather than across them.
Swales
In most cases, drainage swales follow property boundaries. The Villages
won’t alter drainage patterns to suit individual landscape plans. Typically a lot will receive water from and/or pass water onto other lots. For this reason, homeowner changes in grade often affect those adjacent or nearby. The Villages advises you against making such changes. Swales may stay wet for extended periods of time.
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Under Concrete
Maintenance of positive drainage away from the foundation as well as all concrete slabs and walks is your responsibility.
Failure to maintain these areas can result in damage to the foundation
and void the limited warranty. You should expect some settling of backfill soils. Grade Maintenance
We establish the final grade to ensure adequate drainage away from the
home. It is your responsibility to maintain the drainage as established. If the drainage pattern is altered either by action taken directly or instigated by you or your agent, or as a result of negligence of maintenance, the damage which results will be your responsibility and any coverage by the limited warranty will be void. Clay soils often stay wet for a period of time after it rains. It is necessary for you to alter their maintenance procedures to allow enough time for drying process.
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GUTTERS & DOWNSPOUTS
Use & Care
Gutters should be inspected periodically and must be cleared of leaves or other wind-deposited debris. Materials that accumulate in gutters can slow water from draining from the roof, cause overflows, or clog the downspouts.
Use caution when leaning ladders against gutters, since this may cause dents.
Cleaning
As part of normal maintenance, you should keep gutters clear of debris that might clog them and cause the water to run over the downspouts. You should check gutters periodically to insure proper functioning.
Downspouts
Downspouts are designed to carry water to the ground and to extensions,
which then direct the flow away from the foundation of the home. You’re responsible for repairing any erosion damage because of improper installation.
Overflow
Gutters may overflow during periods of excessively heavy rain. Small
amounts of water (up to 1 inch) will stand for short periods in gutters immediately after rain. No correction is required for these conditions.
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HARDWOOD FLOORS
Use & Care
In daily care of hardwood floors, preventive maintenance is the primary goal. Sweep your hardwood floors with a fine bristle broom on a daily basis or as needed. When the floor becomes soiled, never wet-mop, damp-mop, or flood your floor with water or other products. This can severely damage the flooring and will void the warranties. Excessive water causes the wood to expand, possibly damaging the floor. The use of a static floor cleaner such as a dry “Swiffer”, or a similar product is highly recommended. Anderson Hardwood Floors suggests using a Bona Kemi Hardwood Floor Cleaner such as “Bear Care,” which is available at all local floor covering stores. Stay away from hard floor cleaning machines. They spray liquid directly onto the floor surface and can cause damage to a prefinished floor and will void any manufacturer’s warranty. http://www.andersonfloors.com/caring/
Important: Do not use oil soaps, liquid, paste wax products, or other household cleaners that contain lemon oil, silicone, or ammonia since most warranties do not cover damage caused by non-recommended products. Anderson Hardwood Floors DOES NOT approve the use of hard floor cleaning machines such as “Swiffer” Wet, “Swiffer” Wet Jet, or Hoover Floor Mate. Use of these and other such products will harm the long-term performance of your floor and may also affect the ability to be recoated. Once you wax a polyurethane finish floor it’s very difficult to re-coat the floor, since the new finish will not bond to the wax. Preventative cleaning should maintain the desired level of luster. Wood floors will exhibit the following traits:
D When new, small splinters of wood will appear.
D Dimples or scratches can be caused by moving furniture,
dropping heavy or sharp objects, etc.
D Some shrinkage or warping can be expected, specially around heat vents or any heat-producing appliances.
D Warping will occur if the floor becomes wet repeatedly.
D A dulling of the finish in heavy traffic areas is likely, and
a white, filmy appearance can result from moisture (often from wet shoes or boots).
Sweep or vacuum regularly, since built-up grit can damage the surface of
the wood. Use protective mats at the exterior doors to keep sand and grit from getting on the floor. Gritty sand is wood flooring’s worst enemy.
When vacuuming, the vacuum head must be a brush or felt type. Be
certain the wheels of the vacuum are clean and do not damage the finish. DO NOT USE A VACUUM WITH A BEATER BAR HEAD.
Remove all spills promptly using a soft cloth and cleaning products recommended for hardwood floors.
Remove shoes with spiked or damaged heels before walking on the floor.
Heels which have lost their protective cap and expose the fastening nail will exert over 8,000 pounds of pressure per square inch on the floor. That’s enough pressure to damage hardened concrete, and it will mark your wood floor.
Be aware that yellowing and warping of the surface can result from the
rubber backing on area rugs or mats. Exposure to the sun and its UV rays accelerates the oxidation and aging of wood and fabrics. This causes the stain and wood to fade and or change color. We recommend that you rearrange rugs and furniture periodically so the floors ages evenly. These warranties do not cover damages from the sun, and its UV rays. Use area rugs in heavily traveled areas and pivot points (e.g. stair landings, room entries, etc.) especially if you have a large family or indoor pets. Regarding pets; keep their nails clean, and paws clean and free of gravel, grease, oil, and stains.
Install proper floor protections on furniture used on hardwood floors.
Protectors allow chairs to move easily over the floor without scuffing. Clean the protectors on a regular basis to remove any grit that may accumulate. Use a dolly and protective sheets or plywood when moving heavy objects, furniture, or appliances.
Condition of your floor
During your Home Review, we’ll confirm the good condition of your wood
floors. You’re responsible for the routine maintenance of your hardwood floors.
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INSULATION
Use & Care
Blown insulation is less effective if it’s uneven. Any time you have work done in your attic for example, the installation of a TV antenna, the workmen’s last step should be to check that the insulation lays smooth and even.
(Caution: Do no step on drywall ceilings. Personal injury and/or
damage to drywall can result.) Code Compliance
Insulation will be installed to meet or exceed the building codes applicable
at the time of your home’s construction.
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LANDSCAPING
Use & Care The Villages offers: Zoysia Grass – EMPIRE Zoysia is an improved warm season turfgrass originally developed in Brazil that is ideally suited to the warm and humid areas of the United States, including central Florida. EMPIRE offers homeowners exceptional performance, with lower maintenance. Empire is a blue-green turfgrass with soft-to-the-touch feel that has a wider blade than most other zoysias. EMPIRE grows in a wide variety of soil and climate conditions; and performs well in several soil types. It has tough runners, rhizomes (underground stems), and deep roots that provide excellent sod strength, durability, and improved drought tolerance. EMPIRE exhibits the moderate shade tolerance typical of most Zoysias.
Best Management Practices While EMPIRE needs less maintenance than any other turfgrass, it is a living plant and does require appropriate care. EMPIRE care and maintenance is outlined in the following information. This information is provided as a guide and should be modified as local environmental conditions dictate. It is important to note that no “magic fertilizer” or “super-chemical” will solve all problems or make any turfgrass, including EMPIRE, perfect. However, consistent adherence to these recommendations will greatly enhance the quality and performance of EMPIRE Zoysia.
Establishment Establishment describes the phase when the turfgrass takes root and begins to grow where it has been installed. Care taken during this period is critical in determining the long-term quality and performance of EMPIRE or any other turfgrass. EMPIRE is a tough, hardy turfgrass that, once established and properly cared for, produces a beautiful lifetime lawn or landscape. Improper care, however, can cause death of the turfgrass or damage that results in lengthy recovery and additional expense.
Mowing: New installations can be uneven and care should be taken not to scalp high spots (“Scalping” is cutting more than the top 1/3 of the grass blade):
-+ Mow within 10 days of installation during the active growing season and bag clippings for the first few mowings
-+ See Post Establishment Mowing in the following section for more information.
Fertility: Use a transplant-friendly regimen that will help reduce shock and minimize disease:
-+ Use a starter fertilizer that is low in Nitrogen and higher in Phosphorous and Potassium. Appropriate formulations are 15-1-15 and 16-4-8.
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Post Establishment Mowing: Mowing is a critical and often underappreciated cultural practice:
-+ Maintain EMPIRE at 1-2” -+ Heights above 2” will reduce quality -+ Can be maintained at heights of ½” if regularly mowed with a reel
mower -+ Rotary mower are preferred for heights 1” or higher; and do an
excellent job for most acceptable mowing heights -+ Reel mowers are preferred for heights below 1” -+ Mow every 7-10 days during the active growing season -+ Mow every 10-14 days, or as needed, during cooler weather -+ Never cut more than 1/3 of the total length of the blade at one
mowing. If “scalping” does occur, it may take a couple of weeks during the growing season for the grass to recover its normal look.
-+ If a scheduled mowing is missed and clippings clump on top of the EMPIRE, bag or vacuum clippings to reduce shade-out
Insecticides: Avoid stress from insects by performing insecticidal applications as needed:
-+ Early identification and treatment of insect stress minimizes inputs and injury. If grass has a droughty/dry appearance, even with sufficient water received through rainfall or irrigation, and grass can be pulled out easily, insects or disease may be an issue.
-+ Make routine observations of the landscape, and be aware of seasonal pests like billbugs, armyworms and webworms
-+ For any insecticide application, always read and follow directions carefully
-+ Apply Bayer Advanced Lawn Season-Long Grub Control Ready-to Spread Granules annually in the spring to control billbug larvae/grubs. A second application in the fall may be accomplished if larvae/grub populations are significant. Follow package label directions carefully
-+ Control armyworms and webworms with Sevin, Orthene, Diazinon or Permethrin-based products
-+ Control billbugs with Sevin (adults), Talstar (adults),DeltaGuard (adults), Merit (laval/grub form), Mach2 (laval/grub form)
-+ Consult with local experts and view http://www.empireturf.com for insecticide recommendations. (Note that some products may be applied only by state licensed pest control operators)
Herbicides: Healthy, properly maintained EMPIRE is naturally more resistant to weeds. Proper mowing, irrigation and fertilization of EMPIRE will reduce weed problems. If a weed problem appears and persists:
-+ Make routine observations of the landscape, being aware of seasonal weeds. There are many types of weeds, but a common grassy weed in central Florida is crabgrass; a common broadleaf weed is dollar weed.
-+ Identify the type of weed causing the problem before using any chemical controls
-+ For any herbicide application, always read and follow label directions carefully
-+ Improper use of herbicides can severely damage or kill EMPIRE
-+ EMPIRE is highly tolerant of most commonly used herbicides, making it easier to control weeds
-+ Consult with local experts and view http://www.empireturf.com for herbicide recommendations
Fungicides: EMPIRE has shown resistance to most fungal problems. EMPIRE compares favorably for improved disease resistance to many other turfgrasses; in fact, EMPIRE has shown improved tolerance to brown patch as compared to other St. Augustine grasses in side-by-side plantings. Controls should be used only as needed:
-+ Early identification and treatment of disease stress minimizes inputs and injury
-+ Make routine observations of the landscape, being aware of unusual symptoms
-+ Consider a broad-spectrum fungicide application if predictable seasonal problems like brown patch are noted
-+ The most common disease found in zoysia grasses is brown patch. Brown patch appears as softball-sized brown spots, and spreads in irregular circular shapes. Treat brown patch with broad spectrum spray fungicide. Look for products that are labeled as specifically addressing brown patch. Pro Star is one of a number of acceptable products.
-+ For any fungicide application, always read and follow directions carefully
-+ Consult with local experts and view http://www.empireturf.com for fungicide recommendations
Irrigation: Established EMPIRE exhibits drought tolerance due to improved plant genetics and growth characteristics:
-+ Watering requirements are greatly dependent on soil type, season, geography and other factors
-+ Ensure irrigation systems are working properly and covering all areas covered by EMPIRE
-+ Make routine observations of the landscape and learn the signs (i.e. wilting) that indicate when irrigation is required. In addition to wilting, the turfgrass may take on a grayish tint when water is needed.*
-+ Shaded areas and heavy soils require less water than full-sun areas and sandy soils
-+ Encourage deep root growth by watering until the soil is moist to a depth of 3”; shallow watering encourages shallow roots
-+ Infrequent deep watering maximizes drought resistance and tolerance -+ Visit http://www.empireturf.com for more information on proper irrigation.
*A note on how extended periods of insufficient water, or colder winter periods, may affect EMPIRE: EMPIRE has the ability to go into dormancy, or “shut down” under these types of conditions. When the plant does this, it is focusing its energy on nutrient storage instead of using those nutrients to maintain green growth. The plant is alive, but will take on a golden-brown, straw-like color. As long as the turf is established, it is acceptable for the turf to have this appearance. If prolonged drought or freezing temperatures are not factors, and the turf takes on this appearance, other issues may be affecting it (i.e. insects, herbicide damage, fertilizer burn, etc.). You should contact a lawn maintenance specialist if the issues are possibility.
Fertility: Proper fertility practices will encourage a healthy EMPIRE lawn that is free of insects
-+ Proper soil tests to understand your soil type(s) and condition and best determine your specific fertility needs
-+ Generally EMPIRE requires 4, and possibly as many as 5, fertilizer applications/year from spring through early fall. Each application should include 0.5-1.0lbs of Nitrogen/1000ft2 of turf. In central Florida, first application of the year should be made after any lingering threat of frost—usually early to mid April. The last application of the year should be made mid to late fall, and should be higher in potassium.
-+ Make routine observations and fertilize according to what the landscape indicates
-+ Understand what and how much fertilizer you are applying. Read and follow label directions carefully.
-+ Avoid disease and insect inducing growth flushes by reducing Nitrogen rates
-+ Improve color and limit growth surges by utilizing Iron sources -+ Apply good, balanced fertilizers with lower rates of Nitrogen:
formulations of 15-1-15 and 16-4-8 are examples Irrigation System
A manual will be provided to you, along with a wrench to adjust sprinkler
heads as needed. We recommend you place doughnut rings around the heads to keep them from being damaged by weed eaters, etc. Systems are set for automatic operation. Service sprinkler systems on a regular basis, and conduct operational checks to ensure proper system performance.
Your lawn should be watered for the first 30 days after closing for
approximately 20 minutes per zone. (Some systems are set for 30 minutes). The zones of your irrigation system are located in the ground in a green valve box on the side of your home. Be sure sprinkler heads are directed away from your home.
It is best to apply ¾ of an inch of water per zone during each application.
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Rain sensors are a part of your sprinkling system and are designed to shut your system off automatically when it rains. If your system doesn’t irrigate on a scheduled day, it could be because the rain sensor shut it off. The system won’t operate on manual when the rain sensor is functioning properly.
If you’re leaving home, make sure you’ve arranged for lawn care and
provide your lawn service with a key to your irrigation box in case there’s a problem with your timer or a leak in the system.
Water Conservation
The local Water Management Authority sets the times and days you may water, and often restricts the watering of lawns in times of drought. The times and days for our area can change, and we recommend that you check with the St. Johns Water River Management at 1-800-451-7106 on the rules in effect at the time of your homeowner orientation. http://www.sjrwmd.com/
Typically, when the lawn and landscaping are less than 30 days old, you’re allowed more watering time to establish the lawn and landscaping. http://www.thevillageswaterwisdom.com/
Weed Control
The best weed control is healthy, vigorous lawn. Proper mowing height, fertilization, and watering will encourage a competitive turfgrass. Herbicide treatments along with hand removal may be required if weeds are allowed to establish in your lawn. There are two types of herbicides, pre-emergent and post- emergent herbicides.
Pre-emergent herbicides are added before weeds are seen in the lawn.
Weed seeds and young plants are killed by pre-emergent herbicides. Timing the application when the weed seeds are germinating is important to good pre- emergent weed control.
Post-emergent herbicides are applied after weeds are visible in the
property. It is important to treat your lawn with a herbicide that is safe for use on your lawn. Some herbicides can be sprayed at recommended application rates on grass and not damage your lawn. It is important to completely read the herbicide label and follow the directions.
Don’t use a herbicide if your turf is stressed from lack of water or if the air
temperature is higher than 85 degrees. Trees and Shrubs
Proper fertilization, insect control and disease control are not only
important to your lawn but are also important to your trees and shrubs. Fertilization with a balanced fertilizer including micronutrients and preventing insect infestation and disease infection should be a part of your landscape plan. Tree and shrub fertilization and pest management can be accomplished using
products available at the local garden center or through a professional landscape service company, like Massey Services.
Winter Injury
Many grasses and landscape plants can be damaged when temperatures
fall to freezing levels. Some ways to avoid frost damage to lawns include: turning off your irrigation system when freezing temperatures are forecasted, and not mowing or walking on frozen turf for 48 hours after freezing temperatures. Grass mowed or watered during a freeze will not recover after a frost.
Landscape plants that are susceptible to winter injury should be covered
with sheets or landscape fabric. Avoid using plastic to cover plants, this can enhance injury.
Limited Irrigation Repairs
You will be given a complimentary card on the day of your closing
orientation for an instruction on your sprinkler system’s operation. Please use this service. The Villages will make required repairs to irrigation systems, including labor, piping and heads that we install for a period of 30 days from the time of closing. Head adjustments will be made one time during the first thirty days only. Operation information is provided through the instruction booklet and on-site demonstration by Villages Representatives.
Note: We will not guarantee any system damaged by an act of nature, such as flooding or lighting, or as a result of negligence.
http://www.hunterindustries.com
Limited Landscaping Replacement
For a period of 30 days from the time of closing, The Villages will replace dead trees, shrubs and grass that are planted by The Villages personnel. You are responsible for fertilizing, weed and insect control, as well as general maintenance of the lawn. This replacement will be made only if our watering & care instructions are followed. Damage to trees, shrubs or grass caused by an act of nature such as high winds, lightning, hurricane, severe freeze, and so on is excluded from The Villages replacement policy.
Note: For further information on the care of lawns, shrubbery, etc., you may contact the Sumter County Cooperative Extension Department and ask for the "Master Gardener” (352-569-6862). http://sumter.ifas.ufl.edu/Hort-MG/mg-index.shtml
If you choose to alter the landscaping to your home around your foundation please contact your termiticide company to re-treat the area. Any work around your foundation may affect the pre-treated areas.
DT* Bottlebrush N Blueberry,Sparkleberry DT* Crape Myrtle DT* Bottlebrush DT* Drake Elm DT* Burfordii Holly ‘Globe’ DT* East Palatka Holly DT Crinum Lily DT* European Fan Palm DT* Dwarf Chinese Fringe Bush DT* Magnolia ‘Little Gem’ N Dwarf Walters Viburnum DT* Magolia ‘Southern’ DT* Glossy Abelia DT* Laurel Oak DT* Indian Hawthorn DT* Ligustrum Tree DT Japanese Boxwood N Live Oak N Juniper ‘Blue Vase’ DT* Nellie Stevens Holly N Juniper ‘Torulosa’ DT* Pindo Palm DT* Ligustrum howardii DT* Savannah Holly DT* Nandina DT* Washington Palm DT* Needle Point Holly
DT* Juniper misc. Key to Drought Tolerance Notations DT* Lantana
DT* Miscanthus Grass DT* Drought Tolerant (per UF IFAS "Drought DT* Muhly Grass Tolerant Plants for North and DT* Parson's Juniper Central Florida" and other IFAS sources) DT Pennisetum Grass DT "Drought Tolerant - needs occasional DT* Purple Lovegrass irrigation" (per SWFWMD Plant Guide") DT* Rev, Little Rev N "Natural - can survive on natural rainfall" DT DT*
Society Garlic Zamia
(per SWFWMD "Plant Guide")
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ST. AUGUSTINE Use & Care St. Augustine Grass- A turf grass widely adapted to warm, humid (sub-tropical) regions; requires frequent irrigation and moderate fertilizing. An improved type of St. Augustine grass is Flortam. It has a very course texture and is extremely vigorous in Florida. Disease Control Grey Leaf Spot-Small round or oval lesions on the leaf blades. Susceptible when heavily fertilized, in shade, heavy foot traffic, improperly watered or under stress from herbicide. Brown Patch- Begins with yellowing on the turf. Leaves then turn reddish brown or straw brown. Dollar Spot- “Silver Dollar” size dead patches. In early morning a white cobweb growth may be seen on patches. Fertilizing Proper fertilizer is an important part of a good lawn maintenance program. Lack of fertilizer can contribute to maintenance difficulties and increase insects, disease, and weed problems. Generally your lawn will need fertilizer between 2-6 times a year depending on your location. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/lh010 Insect Control Chinch Bugs-small (1/6 inch long) black insects with white winds folded over the back. Damaged turf appears yellow, then turns brow, withers and dies in patches. Mole Cricket-Light brown, have wings, (1 ½ inch long and ¼ inch wide). Damage appears as dry, loosened or uprooted turf. Armyworms-Dull brown-green with light stripe along back with darker bands on each side (1 ½ inch long), front of head has inverted “T” or “Y” mark. Scraping away of green tissue from the leaf surface causes damage. Watering If grass looks dark and blue-gray, wilted, and curled or folded leaf blades and foot-prints show, your St Augustine is saying it’s time to irrigate. A weekly watering of 1 to 1 ¼ inches should allow the water to penetrate 4-6 inches into the soil and provide ample moisture. Watering your lawn in the early morning is always recommended. St. Augustine grass can survive for long periods without rainfall or irrigation.
Your irrigation timer is set for the proper time to water and the amount of days you can water per the local Water Conservation guidelines. If you need a little more water in a certain area you can hand water so you don’t accidentally reset the timer. Never forget: You can help prevent or reduce pests and other problems with proper irrigation practices. Mowing As spring arrives and your St. Augustine begins to turn green, it’s time to start mowing the grass. During the winter months your grass may turn brown and tempt you to set your lawn mower lower to remove all the “dead” grass before the active growing season. Bad choice…St. Augustine spreads by stolons or stems on top of the ground. Mowing the grass low can scalp and damage stolons, it also discourages deep rooting. Mow your grass often, at 2.5 to 4 inches, removing no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade. By mowing more often during growing season you’ll avoid buildup of grass clippings. Unless the grass coming out of the mower is leaving clumps in the yard, collecting the grass is not required.
MIRRORS
Use & Care
To clean your mirrors, use any reliable liquid glass cleaner or polisher available at most hardware or grocery stores. Spray the cleaning solution on the towel that you’re using, not directly on mirror. Avoid splashing water under the mirror, since the moisture will cause the silvering to deteriorate.
During your Home Review, we’ll confirm the good condition of the mirrors
in your new home.
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PAINT & STAIN - EXTERIOR
Use & Care
Regular painting and repair will preserve the beauty of your home and add to its value. You should check the painted/stained surfaces of your home's exterior annually. If you repaint before there is much chipping or wearing away of the original finish, you will save the cost of extensive resurfacing of your home.
Your paint manufacturer suggests for our area and climate that you
repaint the exterior surface of your home every three years or as needed. The chemical structure of the paint used on the exterior is governed by the climatic conditions. Over a period, this finish will fade and dull a bit.
Avoid allowing sprinklers to spray water on the exterior walls of your
home. This will cause blistering, peeling, splintering, and other damage to the home. Trim that’s painted white or light colors will more readily show grain and cracks, requiring additional maintenance.
Cracking
Wood trim will develop some minor cracks and raised grain as it ages and
dries, much of which will occur during the first year. Raised grain can result in peeling paint; however, this is not due to a defect in materials or workmanship. You’re responsible for maintaining the paint on your home’s exterior. Stucco homes will also develop hairline cracks that you will need to caulk.
Fading
Fading of exterior paint or stain can be expected due to the effects of sun
and weather. No repair is provided for this situation. Paint Colors
Color names and numbers are noted on your contract and in your paint touch up kit. https://www.thevillages.net/homeWarranty/warrantyClaimForm.asp
Repainting
When you wish to repaint exterior woodwork on your home, you should first reset popped nails. Then wire brush or scrape any blistered or peeling portions with a putty knife; sand then spot with primer. When you’ve completed those steps, the entire area can be painted. Be certain to apply a top quality exterior paint formulated for local climate conditions.
Hail and wind can cause a great deal of damage in a severe storm, and your house should be inspected after such weather. Damage caused by severe weather should be reported to your insurance company promptly.
Wood Grain
Due to wood characteristics, color variation will result when stain is
applied. There will be no repair or replacements on such variations. Touch Up
The Villages will touch up paint as indicated on your Homeowner’s
Checklist. You will be responsible for all subsequent touch-ups, unless provided as part of a warranty repair. You will receive a sample of the exterior paint which you can use for subsequent touch-ups. This paint should be stored where it won’t to be affected by freezing temperatures.
Paint touch-ups are sometimes visible under certain lighting conditions.
For additional details on touch-up needed as a result of repairs; see individual categories of Exterior Wall Finish, Plumbing, etc.
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PAINT & STAIN - INTERIOR
Use & Care
Your interior woodwork and doors have been painted with a semi-gloss paint. These areas can be wiped down with a soft sponge and soapy water. Walls are painted with flat latex paint and should be touched up with matching paint rather than wiped with a wet sponge. Spackling compound may be used to cover any small defects prior to touch-up painting. You should wait a minimum of 30 days before washing any painted surface. Don’t use soaps, abrasive cleaners, scouring pads, or brushes on painted surfaces.
Touch-ups
When touching up paint, use a small brush and apply paint only to the
damaged spot. Touch-up paint may not match the surrounding area exactly, even if the same paint mix is used. A touch-up kit for interior paint should be left in your home.
When it’s time to repaint a room, prepare the wall surfaces first by
cleaning with a mild soap and water mixture or a reliable cleaning product.
For interior stain touch-ups, Old English Furniture Polish and Scratch Cover is inexpensive, easy to use and blends in with the wood grain. Follow the directions on the bottle when using.
Wall Cracks
Don’t attempt to fix drywall cracks or other separations that occur due to
shrinkage until after the first winter’s heating season. See "Drywall" for additional information concerning repairs.
Touch Up
During your Home Review, we’ll confirm the good condition of all interior
paint and stain. You will be responsible for all subsequent touch-ups, unless provided as part of another warranty repair.
Homeowners will receive a sample of the interior paint to be used for
subsequent touch-ups. This paint should be stored where it won’t be affected by freezing temperatures.
Paint touch-ups are sometimes visible only under certain lighting
conditions. For additional details on touch-up needed as a result of repairs; see individual categories of Drywall, Plumbing, etc.
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Wood Grain
Due to wood characteristics, color variation will result when stain is applied. There will be no repair or replacements on such variations.
Cracking
Wood trim will develop some minor cracks and raised grain as it ages and
dries. Much of this will occur during the first year. Raised grain can result in peeling paint; however, this is not due to a defect in materials or workmanship.
Paint Colors
Wood trims painted white or light colors will readily show grain and cracks and therefore require additional maintenance by Homeowner. Color names and numbers are noted on your contract and in your paint touch-up kit. https://www.thevillages.net/homeWarranty/warrantyClaimForm.asp
Your home is equipped with telephone jacks as indicated on your blueprints. Additional jacks can be selected from the options list at the time your new home is ordered. Other additions to phone service, as well as initiating phone service, is your responsibility. Relocating phone outlets for decorating purposes or convenience will be at your own expense.
Repairs
If an outlet is positioned so that a standard phone can’t be installed (i.e., a
kitchen wall phone that interferes with a countertop or cabinets) The Villages will correct it if reported within one year after closing.
Wiring that doesn’t perform as intended from the phone service box into the
home will be repaired by The Villages. From the service box outward, care of the wiring is the local telephone company’s responsibility. http://www.centurylink.com/Pages/Support/
Main water shut-off locations vary. It’s important for you to know and
remember the location of the shut-off location in your home in case of emergencies such as a water line freeze or break. It’s also helpful to be aware of the location of your irrigation shut off.
Cleaning Fixtures
Follow the manufacturer's directions when cleaning fixtures. Abrasive
cleaners will remove the shiny finish, leaving behind a porous surface that’s difficult to maintain. A non-abrasive cleaner such as Spic-n-Span or a liquid detergent is usually recommended. Brass fixtures should be cared for with a good quality brass cleaner, available at most hardware stores.
Clean plumbing fixtures with a soft sponge and soapy water, then polish
with a dry cloth. Drying with a soft cloth or towel will prevent water spots. Fixtures with gold or antique brass finishing shouldn’t be cleaned with an abrasive cleaner. Use only mild detergent and water. http://www.deltafaucet.com/customersupport/warranty.html
Clogs
Many plumbing clogs are caused by improper garbage disposal use. http://www.insinkerator.com/service/index.shtml. Always use plenty of cold water when running your disposal, including disposal of grease. Supplied with a steady flow of cold water, the grease congeals and is cut up by the blades. If you use hot water, the grease remains a liquid, then cools and solidifies in the sewer line. Allow the water to run at least 15 seconds after shutting off the disposal.
Clogged traps can usually be cleared with a plumber's helper (plunger). If
you use chemical agents, carefully follow directions to avoid damaging the fixtures or injuring yourself.
You can clean a plunger drain stopper (usually found in bathroom sinks)
by loosening the nut under the sink at the back, pulling out the rod attached to the plunger and lifting the stopper out. Clean and return the mechanism to its original position.
The main causes of toilet clogs are various domestic items such as paper
diapers, an excessive amount of toilet paper, the wrong type of paper (paper towels), sanitary supplies, Q-tips, dental floss, etc. being put into the plumbing system.
Copper pipes should be maintained by running water through each faucet for about one minute each week. This minimizes stagnation on seldom-used faucets.
Debris in Pipes
Although your plumbing lines have been flushed to remove dirt and
foreign matter, there are usually small amounts of minerals and sand that enter the line. Aerators on the faucets strain much of this material from your water, however, the material caught in the aerators may cause the faucets to drip because the foreign matter causes washers to wear more rapidly. (See "Dripping Faucet" section for additional information).
Dripping Faucet
To repair a dripping faucet, shut off the water at the valve, remove the
faucet stem, change the washer, and then reinstall the faucet stem. It’s important to replace the washer with another of the same type and size. A shower head can be repaired the same way. If you avoid turning faucets off with excessive force, the frequency of this repair can be minimized.
Leaks
If a major plumbing leak occurs, you should immediately turn off the
supply of the water to the area involved. This may mean shutting off the water to the entire home. Then contact the appropriate contractor.
Low Flush Toilets
We’d like to quote some words of wisdom that we heard a while back from
our own local plumber: “They don't build 'em like they used to.”
That’s true and it means some things are different, and differences sometimes surprise us. To prevent any surprises or misunderstandings, we want to point out an important change in the law. In searching for a balance between comfort and sensible use of our precious water resources, several studies on toilet water use were conducted. These studies recognized the 1.28 gallon toilet as the size that saves water overall, and in 2014 a law was passed that prohibited manufacturers from making toilets which use more than 1.28 gallons of water per flush.
Many homeowners are surprised to discover that, on occasion, flushing
twice is necessary to completely empty the bowl. As an alternative, you can hold the handle down, which gives you a three-gallon flush and extra waste.
We understand and share your confusion. In our technical scientific
world, sometimes things make less sense rather than more. However, as your Builder, we must follow codes and other governmental regulations in
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constructing your home. We realize that you must occasionally flush twice. Unfortunately this is not a defect in the function of your toilet. We apologize for any inconvenience this regulation may cause you.
These toilets are also damaged by use of bowl cleaners containing Calcium
Hypochlorite (Chlorine). This chemical is found in most “drop-in” tank cleaning products. The Villages does not suggest the use of these products containing those ingredients, and using them will void the manufacturer’s warranty.
Low Pressure
Occasionally you will need to remove and clean the aerators on faucets to
allow water to flow properly. Normally cleaning every three to four months is sufficient.
Marble or Cultured Marble Fixtures
Marble and cultured marble will not chip as readily as will porcelain
enamel, but care should be taken since it can still be damaged by a sharp blow. You shouldn’t use abrasive cleanser or razor blades on man-made marble since both will damage the surface.
Porcelain Fixtures
A sharp blow from a heavy object can damage or scratch porcelain enamel
on sinks and commodes. You should avoid standing in the bathtub while wearing shoes, unless you’ve placed a protective layer of newspaper over the bottom of the tub. If paint is splattered on porcelain enamel surfaces during redecorating, it should be wiped up immediately. If some spots dry before being noticed, use a recommended solvent. Products like 409 and Glass Plus, are recommended for cleaning.
Running Toilet
To stop running water, check the chain on the flush handle. If it’s too tight
it will prevent the rubber stopper at the bottom of the tank from sealing, resulting in running water.
Shower Surrounds and Tub
The manufacturer recommends cleaning with the following products on a
regular (weekly) basis: Spic N Span Powder, Fantastic, Mr. Clean Cleanser, and Safer for Surfaces Comet. http://www.sterlingplumbing.com/common/pdf/SterlingWarranty.pdf
Stainless Steel Fixtures
Stainless steel sinks should be cleaned with soap and water to preserve their luster. Don’t use abrasive cleaners, because they will damage the finish. An occasional cleaning with a good stainless steel cleaner will enhance the finish.
Care should be taken to avoid leaving produce on a stainless steel surface since prolonged contact with produce can stain the finish.
Tank Care
Blows from sharp or heavy objects can cause your toilet tank to chip or
crack. Avoid placing abnormal pressure against the sides of the tank to prevent cracks in the tank at the point where it’s attached to the bowl. http://www.us.kohler.com/general/warranty.jsp
Toilet Seat Lids
Don’t stand on toilet seat lids. They aren’t designed for this purpose and may chip, scratch or crack. Damaged seats are excluded from warranty coverage.
Whirlpool System Cleaning
If your Sterling fixture is equipped as a Whirlpool, you should follow the procedures below every 3 or 4 months to clean out the system: 1. Fill the unit with hot water. 2. Add at least two teaspoons of automatic dishwasher detergents such
as “Cascade” or “Calgon.” 3. Run the whirlpool for 10 minutes with the air control fully open for
maximum turbulence. 4. Drain, and refill the tub with cold water. Run the unit again to
“rinse.” Then, drain completely. Winterizing Your Pipes
If your home is heated to a normal level, pipes should not freeze at
temperatures above 0 degrees Fahrenheit. Your heat should be set at least at 60- 65 degrees if you’re away during winter months.
If you will be away for an extended period, it’s best to drain your water
supply lines by shutting off the main supply line and opening the faucets to relieve the pressure in the lines. If you drain the hot water heater tank, shut off the hot water heater. If the tank is left full, leave the breaker on and set the water heater’s temperature to its lowest setting.
Garage doors should be kept closed to protect plumbing lines that may run
through this area from freezing temperatures. In unusually cold weather, or in cases where you will be gone more than a day or two, open cabinet doors in the kitchen and baths to allow warm air to circulate around pipes. In extraordinarily cold weather, if pipes do freeze you can use an ordinary hair dryer to thaw them. Never use an open flame.
Repairs
All drains and sewer lines should operate freely. The Villages will correct
obstructions resulting from construction debris for two years from the date of closing. Obstructions removed during this period, which are shown to be
the result of incorrect use will be corrected at your expense. Note: We highly recommend that you purchase a plunger in case a clog occurs.
Cosmetic Damage
During your Home Review, we’ll confirm the good condition of all
plumbing fixtures. You’re responsible for following manufacturer's directions in caring for fiberglass products. Do not use razor blade to scrape off debris on your fiberglass products. Use a mild soap and warm water, or a non-abrasive multi cleaner for cleaning.
Leaks
Any leaks that develop in the piping are covered for a period of two years.
Leaks in the fixtures are covered for one year. Please refer to the manufacturers warranty if a leak develops in your fixtures beyond this time. If a plumbing leak caused by a warranted item results in drywall or floor covering damage, The Villages will make necessary repairs. No adjustments will be made for secondary damage (wallpaper, drapes, personal belongings, etc.) since your insurance should cover these items.
Noise
Changes in temperature or the flow of the water itself will cause some
noise in the pipes. This is normal and doesn’t require repair. Back-flow devices on exterior faucets can cause some noise if hoses are left on.
Water Temperature Variations
Temperature variations can be expected if water is being used in more
than one location in the home. This is normal and doesn’t require repair.
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POOLS
Use & Care
The following maintenance suggestions for pool owners is not a comprehensive pool care manual, and is only a reminder of some of the rules for proper pool maintenance. The list is not intended as a substitute for the instructions provided by manufacturers and suppliers of equipment and chemicals.
Care of your swimming pool involves use of chemicals and equipment,
which can be dangerous if used improperly. Become familiar with detailed instructions for maintenance and use of pool equipment and chemicals provided by the manufacturers and suppliers.
Be sure to have pool water checked once a month by a pool company or
pool supply store to ensure proper chemical balance. Most retail pool supply stores provide this check at no charge. Please call your pool installer for an orientation on how to use your pool and equipment. This is a one time free service provided by your installer.
We encourage you to read and familiarize yourself with all instructional
manuals you receive from The Villages or the manufacturer of your swimming pool equipment and supplies.
D Keep your pool water chemistry within the manufacturer’s recommended standards. Water chemistry is a critical part of maintaining your pool. Staining, etching and pitting of the surface, bather discomfort, cloudy water and algae growth are problems that will occur if you don’t keep your pool water in proper chemical balance.
D Don’t mix pool chemicals. Noxious fumes and violent reactions can
be a result of mixing.
D The only substances that you should put in the skimmer should be diatomaceous earth and chlorine sticks designed specifically for use in skimmers.
D Store pool chemicals in separate containers outside. Most are very
corrosive and should be stored away from your house or garage.
D Measure chemical amounts carefully.
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D Always add chemicals to the water. Never pour water into the pool chemicals.
D Turn on your pool light only if the pool water level is above the
light. Because the light is water-cooled, damage will occur if it’s operated out of the water.
D If air is returning to the pool, turn off the pump immediately. Air
and water are very abrasive and will cause damage to pump. When the system is first turned on air will normally vent itself, but all air should be out of the system within the first five minutes. If not, call for service.
D Operate a multi-port valve only if the system isn’t running.
Damage will occur to the internal seals, causing them to leak if operated while the pump is running.
D Devices like the filter, chlorinator and separation tanks are under
pressure. If you open these pool system components while the pump is running, the lids will blow off.
When reassembling any component, use only clean O-rings. A dirty O-ring will cause leaks.
D If it’s necessary to drain your pool, always have a pool
professional do it for you. If the pool is emptied and ground water exists, at or above the floor, there is a high probability that the pool could pop up, causing the pool shell and deck to crack.
Repairs
Acrylic Decking
The acrylic decking around your pool is constructed with a concrete sub-
base. As explained in the "concrete" section of this manual, some cracking may occur, and is excluded from warranty coverage.
Fiberglass Pools
Please refer to the Manufacturer's Directions.
Marcite Finish
The marcite finish (which is the interior coating of the pool), will be
repaired if peeling, flaking and blistering occurs during the first year after closing. Discoloration, sometimes referred to as mottling is a natural reaction to weather and chemicals and will not be repaired.
Marcite is a combination of white cement and various grades of marble
aggregates. The aggregates may contain trace amounts of elements or minerals
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such as iron or magnesium which may cause discoloration when combined with the complex chemistry of cement and/or the different chemicals used to treat pool water.
Villages repairs are excluded for pitting or etching of the marcite, which
occurs when the water’s total alkalinity is too low for a period of time. When this situation occurs, the acidity of the water will actually attack the calcium carbonate of the cement in the plaster, leaving a rough pitted surface that encourages algae to form. Low total alkalinity can also leach metal and chrome from the fixtures in the pool. Because marcite contains marble, which is a natural, mined material, the marcite will have variations in it similar to marble windowsills.
Every marcite pool will experience some cracking. Non-structural or
surface cracks are excluded from our duty to repair. Pool Filter Equipment
Pool filter equipment needing repairs (not routine maintenance) for one
year after closing will be made by The Villages, including the pump, motor, automatic chlorinator, and any other filter-related equipment, unless required by abuse or negligence of any person. Pool filter cartridges are a maintenance item and are your responsibility.
Pool Plumbing
Pool plumbing repairs necessitated by poor workmanship will be made for
one year after closing. Pool Shell
Repairs required to keep the concrete structure or pool shell structurally
sound will be made for one year. The concrete structure consists of the pool shell encasing the steel reinforcing bars on the surface of the excavation in which the pool is constructed. The pool shell does not include the marcite finish.
Pool Tile
Color variations are natural and are excluded from repair requirements.
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PROPANE
If your home contains a Fireplace, Pool Heater, or Summer Kitchen BBQ, Propane may be supplied to these areas. Propane is a safe, economical, and an environmentally friendly fuel, but as with any fuel gas, it must be handled with care.
Shut Off Locations
If it is necessary to shut off your propane supply, there are two options. To
shutoff propane to the house, go to the side of your home and you will find the shutoff located near the regulator. Turning the valve ¼ turn, so that the lever is crosswise to the pipe, will cut off the supply.
Propane can also be shut off from the tank to the house. There will be a
black circle lid near the tank in your yard. Removing the lid and turning the valve will close the supply.
You should refer to the manufacturer's recommendations for additional information on the care of all floor-covering products. Your Home Sales addendum provides a record of the brand, style and color of floor coverings in your home. Please retain this information for future reference. http://www.armstrong.com/resflram/na/home/en/us/
Although resilient floors are designed for minimum care, they do vary in maintenance needs. Some resilient floors require regular application of a good floor finish, ensuring that your floors retain a high gloss. However, no cleaning or finishing agents should be used on the new floor until the adhesive has thoroughly set. This takes about two weeks.
The resilient flooring installed in your home is the "no wax" type, meaning
it’s coated with a clear, tough coating that provides a durable surface. However, even this surface will scuff or mark. Follow the manufacturer's specific recommendations for care and cleaning of all your hard surface floors.
Be sure to wipe up spills and vacuum crumbs, rather than frequently
washing resilient floors with water. Mopping or washing with water should be limited, since excess water on resilient floors can penetrate seams and get under edges, causing them to lift and curl. You can use a special caulking at tub or floor joints to seal seams at those locations.
Latex or rubber-backed mats should not be used, because it can cause
vinyl to yellow. Note: Use extreme caution when moving appliances across resilient floor covering. Tears, indentations and wrinkles can result. Coasters should be installed on furniture legs to prevent permanent damage.
Repair or Replacement
Seams will occur and are sealed at the time of installation. There should
be no gaps or curling at seams. Resilient floor covering should adhere; lifting or bubbling will be repaired. During your Home Review, we’ll confirm the good condition of all resilient vinyl flooring. Please note that cutting out material and inserting patches is an acceptable means of repair and standard in this industry. The Villages will only repair or replace at their discretion. In any situation that requires replacement, The Villages is not responsible for discontinued selections.
The shingles on your roof do not require any treatment or sealer. Limit walking on your roof, since the weight and movement will have a tendency to loosen and break the integrity of the roofing material and can in turn result in leakage. Never attempt to walk on the roof of your home when shingles are wet, because they’re extremely slippery when wet.
You’re responsible for inspecting the roof and replacing cracked or
otherwise damaged tiles or shingles. The roof should be checked after any extreme weather that might have caused damage. Notify your insurance company if you discover storm damage.
Maintain the gutters and downspouts so that they’re free of debris and
able to quickly and efficiently drain water from the roof.
When you notice a leak, try to find the exact location. This will greatly simplify locating the roof area that requires repair when the roof is dry. If shingles are applied during cooler weather, it will take several days of hot weather for them to seal. Time is the only remedy.
Repairs & Maintenance
For 5 years after closing The Villages will repair roof leaks other than those
caused by severe weather, such as hail damage, driving wind or some homeowner action. Roof repairs can only be made when the roof is dry. https://www.thevillages.net/homeWarranty/warrantyClaimForm.asp
Variations in shingle color are not warranted. “Fungus resistant” shingles are specially treated with a chemical to slow fungus growth, but do not prevent fungus growth. Do not use a power washer to clean your roof, this technique can force water under your shingles and can damage the integrity of your roof. Call a roofing professional for suggestions on how to clean your roof. http://www.certainteed.com/resource/roofing/warranties
Maintenance-free ventilated closet shelving requires little cleaning,
however, warm soap and water or light vacuuming is recommended to remove any dust that may accumulate.
Limited Warranty
Ventilated closet shelving is designed to carry the load of clothing and light
storage. Overloading shelves with books and similar heavy objects can cause a failure of the system.
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SIDING/ALUMINUM FASCIA
Use & Care
The Vinyl Siding products installed in your home are virtually maintenance free. However, you should use care when cleaning your siding. Most dirt will wash off with clean water and a soft scrub brush. Often heavier dirt accumulates, in which case you will want to use a solution of:
D 1/3 cup detergent (Tide, for example)
D 2/3 cup Trisodium Phosphate (Soilax, for example)
D 1gallon water
On occasion, mildew may appear as black spots. It’s easily cleaned by
using the above-mentioned solution, and adding 1 quart of laundry bleach (Clorox, for example) with 3 quarts water.
Since vinyl is a plastic product that can melt, be sure to keep excessive heat
(BBQ grills, etc.) from getting too close to the home.
Use care when "weed whacking" your grass up against the house. The vinyl siding may be damaged.
Note: Vinyl siding manufacturers recommend that fasteners not be
driven up all the way to allow movement of the siding panels. Limited Manufacturer’s Warranty
See your Manufacturer's Warranty. For additional information about your
Limited Manufacturer’s Warranty, see website http://www.plygem.com/wps/portal/home/brands/mastic/support/warranty
Please read the manufacturer’s manual for specific information on the care of your smoke and CO detectors.
To prevent a false alarm or lack of response in a fire, clean your smoke and
CO detectors once every three months by vacuuming them. After cleaning, push the red button to test — the alarm should sound. For your safety, it’s important that these devices be kept clean and in good operating condition. You will need to check the batteries frequently to ensure they’re operational. When changing smoke detector batteries, make sure that batteries for every smoke detector in the home are changed at the same time.
The Villages does not represent that the smoke and CO detection device
will provide the protection for which it is installed or intended. You must obtain homeowner’s insurance.
Note: Your smoke and CO detectors are equipped with a battery back-up device. Make sure you check these regularly and change as needed.
Never run your spa without water or leave it empty for extended periods of time. Water should always be left in your spa, even if you’re gone several weeks, to keep the spa from shifting or raising in the event excessive water gets underneath it. When leaving for extended periods, you will want to shut off the spa.
While leaving unfiltered water in your spa may cause it to become
discolored, it won’t damage the spa. Simply drain the spa and clean it when you return. When leaving for only a month, you can leave your spa running as usual. You may, however, want to turn the temperature down. In freezing weather, leave your spa running to prevent frozen pipes.
Drain and clean your spa four times per year. Clean the filter cartridge for
your spa once a month, and replace the filters once a year. The chemicals you will need for proper spa maintenance include:
D Brominating Tablets
D Stain&Scale
D Water Clarifier
D pH Increaser
D pH Decreaser
D Brominating Concentrate
D Anti-Foam
D Water Test Strips
Chemical Treatment For Your New Spa
To chemically treat your new spa, you will need to fill the spa with water
and follow this simple recipe, then let the spa run for at least eight (8) hours:
D 2 cups of Brominating Concentrate
D 2 cups of Stain & Scale
D 1capful of Water Clarifier
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Add Brominating Tablets* to the floater as needed to maintain the proper Bromine level, testing the pH level and adding either pH Increaser or pH Decreaser as needed to maintain proper Bromine level. (*If you have an ozonator, Bromine Tablets are not necessary.)
Draining Your Spa
D Locate the gray three-way valve (between pump and heater,
heater and filter, or the filter and pump).
D After you’ve located the valve, loosen the nut on top and turn the valve to the off position.
D The object is to stop the water from returning to the spa and
divert it through the blue hose. Maintaining Your Spa
To maintain your spa in good condition, you’ll need to add the following
chemicals to the water once a week, then test the water to maintain the proper pH and Bromine levels:
D 1 capful Brominating Concentrate
D 1 capful of Water Clarifier
D 1 capful of Stain & Scale
Operating Your Spa
D Please call your pool installer for an orientation on how to use your
spa and equipment. This is a one time free service provided by your installer. Consider having your water computer analyzed once a month by a pool professional.
Limited Warranty
Refer to your Manufacturer’s Warranty.
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TREES
Pre-Existing Tree Policy
The Villages reserves the right to leave as many pre-existing trees as possible on a home site that do not interfere with the building of the home. The Villages will make the determination on whether a tree will interfere with the home construction.
Any pre-existing tree left on the lot will be excluded from replacement
requirements, and will not be trimmed or removed by The Villages.
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VENTILATION
“Ghosting”
Complaints received from builders around the country from new and established homeowners regarding black sooty stains which develop on surfaces in homes (on carpet, walls, ceilings, appliances, mirrors, and around area rugs to list a few examples) have led to much investigation and research.
The conclusion of the research and laboratory testing has been that the
majority of this staining or “ghosting” results from pollution of the air in the home caused by burning scented candles. Incomplete combustion of hydrocarbons as these candles burn contributes a considerable amount of soot to the air. This sooty substance then settles or accumulates on surfaces of the home. The sooty deposits are extremely difficult to remove, on some surfaces, such as light colored carpet, they are impossible to clean completely away.
The popularity of scented candles has increased dramatically in recent
years. If this is an activity that is part of your lifestyle, we caution you about the potential damage to your home. When this condition occurs from homeowners burning candles or other lifestyle choices, the resulting damage is the owners responsibility.
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VENTS
Use & Care
Attic ventilation through the roof or soffit is required by building codes and cannot be omitted from the structure. All homes are engineered individually and should not be compared with any other home.
Attic ventilation is required by the building codes and cannot be omitted from the structure. Occasionally, depending on the force and direction of the wind, rain will come through these vents and cause spotting on the ceiling. The Villages is not responsible for such weather damage and won’t make repairs in these instances.
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WATER HEATER
Use & Care
Please carefully read and follow manufacturer's literature for your specific model of water heater located on your water heater.
Water temperature is pre-set in the factory at 120 degrees. If you change
the setting, you may void the warranty. The installing plumber or Villages representative cannot turn up the temperature on your water heater, per local building codes.
Your new home may come with a tankless water heater. This heater will
provide you with continuous hot water on demand. Like all water heaters, our heater does require some regular maintenance to make sure unit life and performance is maximized. Manufacturer recommends you call a professional plumber once every year to flush the heat exchanger and perform routine maintenance.
For full list of maintenance and instructions refer to: http://cdn.globalimageserver.com/fetchdocument-rh.aspx?name=tankless-64-outdoor-tankless-mid-efficiency-use-and-care-manual Limited Warranty
If your residence will be vacant for any amount of time, the breaker
switch to your water heater should be turned off. Don’t turn the valve off at the water tank.
Please refer to the manufacturer's limited warranty for information
regarding coverage of the water heater. http://www.rheem.com/
If any panes of glass become broken, contact a glass company for re-
glazing. Glass is difficult to install without special tools. The Villages is not responsible for broken windows after occupancy. During your Home Review, we’ll confirm the good condition of all windows, screens, and patio doors.
Condensation
Condensation of the interior surfaces of windows and frames is the result
of high humidity within the home and low outside temperatures, and/or inadequate ventilation. These conditions are significantly influenced by family lifestyle. If your home includes a humidifier, closely observe manufacturer's directions, especially during periods of cooler temperatures. Increasing the airflow by using ceiling fans or turning the air handler on should remedy these conditions. There are several things you can do to minimize this phenomenon:
D Keep blinds and draperies open to allow airflow across the
glass.
D Run ceiling fans to increase air flow.
Note: Condensation is excluded from warranty coverage and therefore does not require any corrective action to be taken by The Villages.
Patio Doors
Most sliding windows (both vertical and horizontal) are designed for a ten-
pound pull. If sticking occurs or excessive pressure is required to open or close, a silicone lubricant should be applied. This is available at hardware stores. Do not use a petroleum-based material.
Keep patio door tracks clean to allow smooth operation and prevent
damage to the door frame. Silicone lubricants work well for these tracks. Screens
Many homeowners prefer to remove and store screens to allow more light
into the home. Use caution in removing screens — they’re easily perforated and the frames are bent if not handled with care.
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Windows
In heavy rain, water may collect in the bottom channel of window frames, where weep holes allow excess water to escape to the outside. Keep the bottom window channels and weep holes free of dirt debris for proper operation.
Proper ventilation will prevent excessive moisture from forming on the
inside of the windows. This helps reduce cleaning chores considerably. Glass Care
• Never use any petroleum-based cleaners, or caustic chemicals on
your glass. • Never use a razor blade, putty knife or abrasive pad to clean the
glass. • Do not use a high-pressure spray nozzle when rinsing your windows
after washing. • Clean glass with a mixture of mild dish soap* and water. Rinse
completely with clear water, then wipe dry with a soft cloth to avoid water spots.
• Avoid washing glass in direct sunlight. • Abrassive or caustic cleaners are never recommended because they
might cause permanent damage to the finish or the glass. Vinyl Frame Color
• Chemicals can cause PVC discoloration. All fuels, solvents,
bleaches, or corrosive chemicals must be avoided. • In dry climates with high levels of solar energy, a color change can
be expected with PVC, like most any finish. • A color change has no effect on the strength or structural integrity
of the PVC. • Use of non-approved stucco release products and petroleum based
cleaners will invalidate product warranty. Aluminum Frame
Once a month, you should clean aluminum metal surfaces with warm, clean water. Don’t use any powdered cleaners. After each cleaning, apply a silicone lubricant.
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Vinyl Frame Cleaning
• Vacuum dirt from sill and track areas before washing. • Clean window and door frames with mixture of mild dish soap* and
water. • Abrasive or caustic cleaners or solvents are never recommended
because they might cause permanent damage to the frame finish. • Mild, nonabrasive soaps* are usually safest for most dirt and stain
removal. • Always rinse completely with clear water and wipe dry. • Check to make certain that drainage or “weep” holes are always
clear of dirt or obstructions-both inside and outside the window or door in the bottom of the frame.
*Ivory is an example of mild dish soap. Always test cleaners in an inconspicuous area first.
Limited Warranty
Broken windows and damaged screens must be noted on the Homeowner's
Checklist for them to be replaced. Any alterations to windows or doors, such as tinting, will void your warranty.
Separation of wood trim from the adjacent material is a normal result of shrinkage, requiring caulking and/or touch up painting as a repair. We suggest that you wait until after the first winter’s heating season and make all such repairs at one time.
Wood will shrink less lengthwise than across the grain, and all lumber is
more vulnerable to shrinkage during the heating season.
Shrinkage may cause a piece of trim to pull away from the wall. To repair this situation, simply drive another nail in close to the existing nail hole (but not into it), then fill the old nail hole with putty and touch up with paint as needed.
Humidity may cause some swelling to occur. In most cases, this won’t be
noticeable, except where a door may fit more tightly than usual (see "Doors"). Repairs
Minor imperfections in the wood may be visible. Separation of wood trim
from the adjacent material is a normal result of shrinkage, which can be repaired with caulking, and is your maintenance responsibility.
Raised Grain
Because of the effects of weather on natural wood, you should expect
raised grain to develop. This is normal and not a defect in the wood or paint. White or light colors will more readily show grain and cracks, requiring more maintenance.
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WOOD TRIM - INTERIOR
Use & Care
Separation of wood trim from the adjacent material is a normal result of shrinkage that can require caulking and/or touch up painting as a repair. It’s a good idea to wait until after the first winter heating season and make all such repairs at one time.
Wood will shrink less lengthwise than across the grain. All lumber is
more vulnerable to shrinkage during the heating season.
Shrinkage may cause a piece of trim to pull away from the wall. Simply drive another nail in close to the existing nail hole (but not into it), fill the old nail hole with putty, and touch up with paint as needed.
If the base shoe (small trim between base molding and the floor)
appears to be lifted from the floor, this is probably from a slight shrinkage of the floor joists below. Similar to a piece of trim that’s pulling away, this can be corrected by removing the old nails and re-nailing, and should be done when you’re redecorating.
Shrinkage may occur during the first two years or longer, depending on
weather. The temperature you maintain in your home and whether you have a humidifier are factors.
Humidity may cause some swelling to occur. In most cases, this won’t
be noticeable except where a door may fit more tightly than usual (see "Doors").
Repairs
Minor imperfections may be visible. Separation of wood trim from the
adjacent material is a normal result of shrinkage, which can require caulking as a repair and is your responsibility.
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GIVE US YOUR IDEAS!
We think it’s important for our Homeowner’s Guide to meet the needs of new Villages homeowners. So, we’re asking you to give us your thoughts about how to make it more useful, opinions on the material provided, reactions to its presentation, comments on things we should clarify, and suggestions on additional topics. Anything you want us to know about your Homeowner’s Guide will be appreciated. Just record your ideas below and mail or fax them to us. We revise the guide once a year, and will add your comments to the revisions file for our next edition.
Thank you for helping us make the guide better and better!
Please mail to: The Villages, Home Warranty Department, 1000 Lake Sumter Landing, The Villages, FL 32162.
Abraham Lincoln once said that happiness isn’t a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling. That pretty much sums up the trip you’ve just made to become a Villager. It was a wonderful experience and now you have a beautiful new home, great new neighbors, and a terrific new hometown!
You’ve become a part of The Villages. But there are so many extraordinary
experiences still awaiting you here. Rather than just reaching a destination, you’ve found a whole new lifestyle to a new “manner of traveling.”
