SCALISE HORODYSKI, G., MANOSSO, F. C., BIZINELLI, C. and GÂNDARA, J. M., 2014, “Gastronomic Souvenirs as Travel Souvenirs: A Case Study in Curitiba, Brazil”, Via@, 2014-2(6), http://viatourismreview.com/en/2014/12/varia2014-art5/
Gastronomic Souvenirs as Travel Souvenirs: A Case Study in Curitiba, Brazil
Graziela Scalise Horodyski Professora do Departamento de Turismo da UEPG.
Franciele Cristina Manosso
Bacharel em Turismo pela UFPR Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Sul.
Camila Bizinelli Bacharel em Turismo pela UFPR Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Sul.
José Manoel Gândara
Professor e Pesquisador do Departamento de Turismo e do Mestrado e Doutorado em Geografia e do Mestrado em Turismo da Universidade Federal do Paraná.
Abstract
The purchase of souvenirs is one of the activities realized by visitors as part of the tourist experience at a given destination. Among the many kinds of souvenirs offered around the world, food and beverages stand out for being goods charged with meanings linked to the geographic and touristic space, bearing attributes capable of generating sensations and extending the experience of the trip. Furthermore, as presents, they give to those who receive them a part of the lived experience, what we call a “gastronomic souvenir.” A wide range of products can be considered gastronomic souvenirs; yet there are five variables that are fundamental for grasping the concept: foods and beverages; identification; packaging; identity; and transportability. From this presupposition, this study aimed to identify and analyze the commercialization of gastronomic souvenirs of Curitiba, an urban tourist destination located in the southern region of Brazil. Empirical and exploratory in nature, the case study began with a bibliographic review followed by field work aiming to identify the foods and beverages sold in establishments marketing souvenirs, data being collected from a spatial sample delineated by the circuit of the Linha Turismo(Tourist Line), a tourism bus service in the city. As a result, we found that the offer of gastronomic souvenirs in Curitiba is varied, though cookies, chocolates, wines and cane alcohol (cachaça) stand out, as these are tied to the cultural identity of Curitiba and the region in which the city is inserted.
Tourist experiences involve a series of activities which generate a variety of feelings and emotions in people, beginning with the expectations that go with choosing a destination and the enjoyment of the trip itself, to the return to the place of origin and the memory of the lived experience. One of the activities that often form part of the travel experience is seeking and acquiring souvenirs of the touristic area.
Souvenirs are objects that capture in material form and prolong the travel experience, having diverse meanings for the tourists who purchase them, meanings related to the cultural identity of the destination, or other aspects related to the perceptions of the tourist during travel excursions . In this sense, foods and beverages acquired at a given destination can be considered souvenirs, and included in the category of “gastronomic souvenirs,” the subject of the present study.
Given the need to understand the importance of these kinds of products for tourist destinations, fieldwork was undertaken in the city of Curitiba, the capital of the State of Paraná in the south of Brazil, with the aim of identifying and analyzing the offerings of gastronomic souvenirs.
For purposes of this study, five key categories were proposed as guides for data collection and later analysis, namely: foods and beverages; identification; identity; packaging; and transport. Taking into account these elements, this study began with the following problematic: do the gastronomic souvenirs of Curitiba take into account these appropriate characteristics for their commercialization?
For the fieldwork, a spatial section was delineated by the circuit of the Linha Turismo, a public transportation service which includes twenty-four stops comprising the principal tourist sites of the municipality. In this way, the range of foods and beverages sold as souvenirs in and around these tourist attractions could be identified and analyzed on site. From this, it was determined that out of the twenty four stops of the Tourism Line, fourteen offered gastronomic souvenirs, of various types, for sale, and whose particularities allowed an analysis regarding tourist experiences and questions of cultural identity for this geographic area.
In this way, the article begins with a theoretical discussion regarding the concept of souvenirs, leading toward a deeper exploration of gastronomic souvenirs and surrounding questions, from the perspectives of geography, marketing, and tourism. This is followed by a description of the tourist destination under study, as well as the spatial insertion of the municipality and the sample area adopted for this particular study. In the section on methodology, we explain in detail the criteria for the identification and analysis of the research objects, the gastronomic souvenirs. And finally, the analysis of the results is presented, pointing toward future research on the theme.
Gastronomic Souvenirs
In this section we explore the concept of souvenirs, food products as souvenirs, and the necessary categories for distinguishing gastronomic souvenirs, specifically: identification, packaging, transport and identity.
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The concept of souvenir
Evident in the greater part of tourist destinations around the world, the market for souvenirs encompasses a significant range of objects directly related to the geographic space where they are sold or, often, originating in other regions or even countries—but which, for various reasons, attract the attention of the tourists who buy them. Foods and drinks are commonly offered and bought as souvenirs at tourist destinations, inviting various possible interpretive approaches to the concept of gastronomic souvenirs in terms of tourist experience (demand) and local identity (supply). Nonetheless, it is essential to begin this discussion with the concept of souvenir.
Despite the term’s seeming familiarity, several authors (Zulaikha and Brereton, 2011; Nyffenegger, 2010; Machado and Siqueira, 2008; Gordon, 1986) emphasize that a souvenir is an object endowed with countless meanings related to identity and the touristic image for a given destination. The choice to buy a souvenir arises, many times, from the perception the tourist holds for a given attraction or geographic space, as well as from lived experiences during travel (Machado and Siqueira, 2008).
In this context, it can be seen that studies of the universe of souvenirs adopt various approaches, among which stand out those focusing on aspects tied to the sociocultural identity of these products (Shen, 2011; Nunes, 2008 ; Reis, 2008; Machado and Siqueira, 2008; Peach, 2007; Medeiros and Castro, 2007; Horodyski, 2006; Norrild, 2004; Ruschmann, 1999); the representation of the souvenirs within a geographic space (Swanson, 2004); the relationship between the supply of souvenirs and marketing (Wicks et al, 2004; Schlütter, 1998); the motivations for the purchase of souvenirs (Swanson and Horridge, 2004; Oh et al, 2004; Kim and Littrell, 1999); the classification of souvenirs (Gordon, 1986) and the experiential relationship with these types of products (Chunxiao and Tingyue, 2010; Mitchell and Orwig, 2002; WANG, 1999; Love and Sheldon, 1998).
From the investigations carried out by the authors cited above, it can be stated that a souvenir is an object that can “materialize” the experience of a visit, thereby extending the lived sensations of individuals following their return from touristic journeys. Given the breadth of the concept of souvenir, considering the great quantity of items which form this market, Gordon (1986) proposed a typology based on objective characteristics, represented in the following graphic:
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Figure 1. Typology of Souvenirs Source : Elaborated by the authors, based on Gordon (1986).
Looking at the above diagram, it is evident that that a wide range of objects are sold to tourists as souvenirs of the places they have visited, opening innumerable possibilities for discussions around a product, which, in principal, is not limited to articles with the inscription “souvenir of,” but an extensive “industry of memories” (Schlütter, 1998), with objects produced specifically, or not, for the tourist market, and where, beyond their clear economic impact, they are worth studying in terms of their meanings.
In this sense, Love and Sheldon (1998) showed that there exists a distinction between experienced and less-experienced tourists with regard to the buying of souvenirs. The former are concerned with having authentic experiences, and during these moments may acquire a given product, which many times is not sold in souvenir shop or tourist market, and which may not have been produced for this purpose (Love and Sheldon,1998).
Analyzing Gordon’s typologies (1986), one can suppose that such tourists tend to buy those objects found in the category “local products.” On the other hand, tourists with less experience traveling principally seek objects with the mark of the place visited, and whose concern is with proving that the visit occurred. In this sense, consumption can be linked to the object in itself, and not to its meanings, some examples being visual depictions, replicas and icons, in addition to brand-name goods, and objects of the kind “piece of the rock” (Gordon, 1986; Love and Sheldon, 1998).
From emphases on supply (Gordon,1986) and demand (Love and Sheldon,1998) it was possible to appreciate the range of objects which enter the concept of a souvenir, as well as the likely characteristics of the consumers of the products inserted in the categories presented. One of these categories, included within the category of “Local Products,” is that of food products, which is the subject of the following section.
Food Products as souvenirs
The term “gastronomic souvenir,” adopted for the present study, was proposed from the expression “food souvenir,” used by various investigators such as Lee and Huang
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(2008); Morgan and Pritchard (2005), Swanson (2004): Norrild (2004); Mitchell and Orwig (2002); and Kim and Littrell (2001). Along the same lines, some authors treating the subject have also used the expression “local food” for food and beverages which are produced in the region and offered as souvenirs of tourist destinations (Shen, 2011; Swanson and Horridge, 2004; Norrild, 2004; Lehto, Cai, O'Leary and Huan, 2004; Swanson, 2004).
As such, this study starts with the conception that a gastronomic souvenir is a product derived from foods or beverages, with a distinct identity, indication of origin, appropriate packaging, and ready transportability, such that it can not only materialize the experience of the visit and prolong the lived sensations of people following their return from travel, but also allow the sharing of these souvenirs with other individuals, motivating new trips.
This doesn’t mean, however, that all buyers of gastronomic souvenirs are motivated by the local gastronomy, or by cultural aspects that surround the sector; after all, there are consumers who want the products as markers of the destination, or other factors as discussed by Gordon (1986), with the food or drink merely being items demonstrating that the trip occurred. For this reason, Shen (2011) classifies buyers of souvenirs as cultural and commercial, regarding that some tourists understand and value local culture, though not everyone shares this same concern (Love and Sheldon, 1998), and thus the consumption of products external to local identity needn’t be deemed a negative attitude.
In this sense, it is understood that the analysis of the concept of gastronomic souvenir cannot be limited to questions of authenticity, in that the variety of available products in the souvenir market shows that tourists have diverse longings in relation to the souvenirs they wish to bring home from the places they have visited, possibly related to their particular experience as tourists, including their expectations for the trip, their engagement with a particular geographic space, and the return home and the recollections of the visited destination (Garcia-Mas and Garcia-Mas, 2005).
Regarding these questions, we deem that the study of gastronomic souvenirs should consider five elements which form their principal characteristics, taking as a foundation aspects of supply (Gordon, 1986) and demand (Love and Sheldon, 1998), and drawing on the conceptual contributions of diverse authors who have addressed this topic (Shen, 2011; Lee and Huang, 2008; Morgan and Pritchard, 2005; Swanson and Horridge, 2004; Lehto, Cai, O'Leary and Huan, 2004; Swanson, 2004; Norrild, 2004; Mitchell and Orwig, 2002; Kim and Littrell, 2001). The five elements are: Foods and Beverages, Identification, Packaging, Identity, and Transport, as depicted in the following figure:
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Figure 2. Constituent elements of gastronomic souvenir Source: Elaboraded by authors (2012).
It must be emphasized that the five elements presented in the above figure contribute to an understanding and analysis of gastronomic souvenirs; nonetheless, they are not necessarily interdependent, depending on the different characteristics of the souvenirs and their consumers (Love and Sheldon, 1998; Gordon, 1986). In order to discuss these questions further it is necessary to understand each of the proposed elements. Below, the variables of identification, packaging, transport (portability), and identity will be discussed. The variable “foods and beverages” will be treated afterwards, by way of the empirical research, allowing an analysis of the relation between the conceptual issues and the reality of the market in gastronomic souvenirs in Curitiba.
Identification
The variable “identification” refers to the labeling and branding of foods and drinks, which transmit a variety of information and make possible the identification of the product with the territorial and touristic image of the destination where the product is sold as a souvenir.
The image of a tourist destination arises from its total net offering and the ensemble of communicative acts regarding the destination. This image is derived from received information plus the actual experiences of tourists at the destination (Gândara, 2008), which comprise an array of knowledge acquired during the trip, as well as personal impressions and sensations of the locale (Schlütter, 1998; Ejarque, 2005). Communication in tourist destinations entails an organized and collective practice of constructing a distinct identity, projecting the image of the destination, and transmitting those experiences that make the tourist option stand out (Valls, 2004; Bigné, Font, Andreu, 2000). Communication serving to brand the tourist destination toward The tourist image may be further materialized through branding One of the
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ways of materializing a touristic image and generating demand is through branding (Azeglio, 2005), which can be associated with a gastronomic souvenir.
A souvenir, in this sense, can function as a channel for communication, and foods and beverages, especially, reinforce the brand through the sensations continue to evoke after the trip, as much by what they offer in taste, as in the diverse meanings they carry (Gândara, Gimenes and Mascarenhas, 2009). Such meanings are linked to the identity of the product (which will be addressed ahead) and the information communicated through its label.
The role of the label is to provide information that allows the consumer to chose a given product, as well as to prepare and consume it correctly (Machado, Santos, Albinati and Santos, 2006). The authors note that, in Brazil, the proper label information for foods and beverages is regulated by the Consumer Defense Code (Código de Defesa do Consumidor, 1990), which guides the provision of information about the net content, place of origin, lot, expiration date, instructions for preparation and use, company name, and identification of the importer, when indicated.
In the case of gastronomic souvenirs, the compliance with the regulations of each country regarding food labeling is considered fundamental. Yet, it is believed that tourists want, beyond the basic information about the food or beverage, an appropriate indication identifying the geographic space where the product was made and sold. The name of the destination can thought of as a meaningful touristic brand, as can other kinds of symbolic representations (Rabassa, 2012; Fandinõ and Xaime, 2002) which, when present on the label, can add value to the product. Drawing from Guadalupe (2000), it is thought that such information can contribute to forming the identity of a food or beverage, making it stand out in the market.
Among the strategies used to give distinction to foods and beverages in the market are the Protected Designation of Origin (Souza, 2006; Ribeiro, Matos and Fernandes, 2008; Cabrales and Gonzalez, 1974) and Protected Geographical Identification (Luna, Giesbrecht and Lima, 2007). These refer to an initiative that began among European rural producers, and expanded throughout the world, as a way to add value to and recognize the quality of the production of a given territory, through an identification of origin, which allows the recognition of the geographic space where the production occurs and the know-how of a community, protecting the natural and cultural landscape. Among many examples, we note the wines Champagne and Bordeaux (France) and Colombian coffee.
In these cases and many others, the integrated connection (Valls, 2004; Bigné, Font, and Andreu, 2000) between territory and producers provides the impetus for the consumption of these goods, bought in many cases as souvenirs by tourists who visit the regions where they are produced, and which, in many cases, give the tourist destination its identity. In the same way, the products promote the region, and the cultural identity of the territory in which it is inserted, by way of the communication function of the label, which can be a decisive factor for the purchase of the product (Guadalupe, 2000).
Packaging
From the perspective of marketing, the package of a product is itself a means of communication. In this section, we approach the issue of packaging through its
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essential functions, that is, the basic role of containing and/or grouping together a product, as well as facilitating its transport, while protecting the product physically (Pereira, 2006; Guadalupe, 2000).
Kotler (1998) asserts that packaging is a combination of design and fabrication of a receptacle or wrapping for a product, whose main ends can be summarized as consumption (sale or display), physical division, transport, export, and storage. Furthermore, the author believes that packaging has become a powerful tool of marketing, and if well planned, can create convenience for the consumer and promotional benefits for the manufacturer.
Faria and Souza (2008) point to the need to take into account the costs related to packages, considering both consumer needs and the final price of the product. In general, packaging is made of glass, paper, plastic, metal, wood or fabrics, and the social and environmental aspects of packaging have become a growing concern among consumers. For this reason, the authors underline the degree to which technologies have been developed for providing socially and environmentally appropriate packaging, even as a way to communicate a positive image of the packaged product.
In the case of gastronomic souvenirs, it is worth emphasizing that their buyers need packaging that will reliably protect the food or beverage during the displacements of travel by various means of transport, particularly when these products have to checked in with baggage on airlines. Not only should such packaging be strong, it should be easy to carry, be light, and as compact as possible. The range of package sizes found in stores selling Tortas de Santiago of Galicia, and the Ensaimadas of Majorca, are examples. Furthermore, it falls to the makers of gastronomic souvenirs to offer extra packaging, when needed, that is also aesthetically pleasing, since many of these items will be given as presents when they arrive back in the city of origin of the tourist (Hjalager, Corigliano, 2000).
Transport
A gastronomic souvenir is a product normally carried while traveling, which entails the movement of foods and beverages between regions and countries. For this study, we look at Brazilian norms and legislation, recognizing that there are specific norms regulating the entry of foods and beverages for every country (Hjalager, Corigliano, 2000). In Brazil, the entity charged with enforcing the rules guiding the entry and exit of foods and beverages is the Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária, or ANVISA (The National Agency for Health Surveillance), with support from the Serviço de Vigilância Agropecuária International, or VIGIAGRO (Service for International Agricultural Surveillance). It is responsible for inspecting the bags of passengers entering the county (ANVISA, 2012), with the relevant directives being: Portaria SVS/MS 326, of July 30,1997, along with the ANVISA Resolution 275, of October 21, 2002 .
Based on these entities, the foods and drinks which require a sanitary certificate in order to enter the country are: fresh fruits and vegetables; seeds; all meat, regardless of the animal species -- be it in its natural state or processed (sausages, ham, salted and canned meats); milk and milk products; bee products (honey, wax, propolis); eggs and egg derivatives; fish and fish derivatives. These products must be controlled, since they require special storage conditions so as to avoid health risks (ANAC, 2012), principally due to the imminent danger of bacterial, fungal, and viral
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contamination that could endanger public health (ANFFA SINDICAL, 2012). In these cases, the National Civil Aviation Agency (Agência Nacional da Aviação, ANAC) suggests that products of these kinds be acquired in free shops in the tourist’s country of origin, in order that such products not be contaminated. If merchandise has to be brought into the country, it is essential to present health and importation certifications (ANAC, 2012).
Some plant-based food products with a greater amount of processing are exempted, such as as oils, alcohols, compotes, chocolate, toasted and ground coffee, jellies, juices, colorants, precooked fruits and vegetables, vinegars, pickles, preserves, rice, flour, and industrial processed maté leaves (ANAC, 2012). Regarding alcoholic beverages, it should be pointed out that wines have a limit of 12 bottles of the same brand, or 18 bottles when coming from distinct manufacturers, and have to be sent with checked bags. Perishable foods must be contained in leak-proof, odorless packages which can not open accidently, and shouldn’t weigh more than 5 kilos (Brasil, 2012).
It is worth highlighting that Health Surveillance decreed (No. 26.048/86) that: it is forbidden to transport people or animals together with foods; in transporting foods, the words “Transport of foods” plus the name, address and phone number of the company, as well as “Perishable Product” (when applicable), should appear on the right and left sides, clearly visible, within a rectangle 30 cm high by 60 cm wide; the materials used for the protection and joining of the foods (cords, waxes, plastics and others) should not constitute sources of contamination or damage to the product; the packing and unpacking of the material shouldn’t pose risks of contamination or damage; the joint transport of raw materials or raw food products with foods ready for consumption is not permitted; the joint transport of two or more food products, if one presents a risk of contamination to the others, is forbidden (PORTARIA N. CVS – 15, 1991). It need be emphasized that though the aspects highlighted here come from Brazil, in other countries laws regulating the transport of foods differ only slightly.
Hjalager and Corigliano (2000) emphasize that food policies can determine the role of foods in tourist activities, principally when considering the transport of gastronomic souvenirs, since standing restrictions on some kinds of foods, often those considered cultural “symbols” of the destinations, and therefore having potential as gastronomic souvenirs (such as Parma ham, from Italy, or Pata Negra, from Spain, among others), may make their transport problematic. Both the countries of origin of the gastronomic souvenir and those of the tourists who consume them need be attentive to these questions, in order that there be agreement regarding their transport.
Identity
For Hjalager and Corigliano (2000), food is an important factor for the image of destinations and is increasingly becoming a touristic product. It can be said that identities distinguish themselves by evoking an origin in a distant past with which they continue to maintain a certain resemblance. And in this sense, the identification is established through the recognition of some kind of common origin, or by way of characteristics which are shared with other groups or people, or even arising from a common ideal (HALL, 2000). The social-cultural identity of souvenirs have been discussed by Shen (2011); Nunes (2008); Reis (2008); Machado and Siqueira (2008);
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Peach (2007); Medeiros and Castro (2007); Horodyski (2006); Norrild (2004); and Ruschmann (1999).
Pollak (1992) interprets the construction of identity as a phenomenon that occurs with reference to “others,” by way of standards of what is acceptable, allowable, and believable, and which occurs through direct interaction with “others.” This view converges with that of Cuche (2002), who treats identity as a construction elaborated in a relationship that opposes groups to others with whom they are in contact, generating symbolic oppositions upon which norms of belonging are based, which individuals are acutely aware of.
Right away it can be said that the very concept of identity entails distinctions in principals, values and features that mark it as different from other cultures, peoples, or communities (Santos, 2004). Furthermore, it is pertinent to state that identity relates, in its essence, to a feeling of belonging. More than “to be”, it is a matter of “to feel to be” (Cuche, 2002). From this perspective, if to identify means to differentiate, by way of imputing a characteristic identity on someone, identification alludes to the action in which someone become similar or different from others by way of comparisons. On this theme, Haesbaert (1999) asserts that in the social-human sphere to identify is always to identify oneself; that is, a reflexive process, and therefore a process of identifying oneself with; a relational, dialogic process, inserted within a social relationship.
It is important to analyze the feeling of identity from a geographic perspective. Following Knafou et al (2008), a geographic approach is appropriate to the development of individuals, referring to an essential dimension in human societies. Furthermore, identity can be considered a strategic concept, as Hall (2002) asserts, and, as Haesbaert (2002) suggests, can absolutely be established around territories, making it even more important to weigh the spatial dimension to fully appreciate differences and identities.
In this context, it can be considered that territorial identity is grounded in the emblematic valorization of the territory by individuals, given that any territory is a vital space, an area of identity and attachment, and a space where values are represented and communicated (Tuan, 1990; Anton Clavé, 2010). On this question, Haesbaert (1999) asserts that all territorial identities end up being the result of a social identity essentially determined through territory. This leads, consequentially, to the interpretation of territorial identity as a social result of the territorialization of the everyday-actions taking place in the territory (Bonnemaison, 2002). This last dimension would be both the foundation for and result of actions by social actors, who, in the process of spatial assimilation, determine meanings linked to identity, whose limits follow those of the territory (Haesbaert, 2005).
From this perspective, it is worth emphasizing that the construction of identities can arise at different geographic scales, from local, regional, national, even global (Azevedo, 2011). In many cases, there can be instances of identity appropriation, in different geographic contexts, as related to processes of national identity construction. The Brazilian case stands out notably for the phenomenon of appropriating the particular cultural manifestations of certain social groups by the rest of the society, and, in this way, they are transformed into national symbols. Such is the case with feijoada (black-bean stew) and churrasco (barbecued meat), among others. Similarly, Tequila, in Mexico, and Cachaça, in Brazil, are examples of
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gastronomic souvenirs tied to national identity. In the next section we will explore aspects of identity in Curitiba, drawing on our empirical research.
Characterization of Curitiba as a Tourist Destination
Curitiba, the capital of the state of Paraná, is an urban tourist destination, within the Rotas do Pinhão (Routes of the Araucaria Pine) tourist region —Curitiba and Metropolitan Area (MTUR, 2012; SETU, 2012). It has 1,751,907 inhabitants and forms part of the Curitiba Metropolitan Region, with twenty six municipalities and a population of 3,223,836 persons (IBGE 2010). In 2010, it received an estimated 3,410,836 tourists (IMT, 2011) who spent, on average 91.15 dollars per person per day in the city.
According to a study of the Municipal Tourism Institute (2010), tourist demand in Curitiba comes foremost from Paraná state itself (36.8%), followed by the southeastern region of Brazil (32.8%), and in third place, the southern region of the country (18.5%). The principal reasons identified for visiting the city are “pleasure, recreation, and rest” (36.0%), “business and professional motives” (26.3%), and “visits to relatives and friends” (23.5%).
The image of the city is tied to its urban planning, which makes it unusual and attractive in several ways, principally in relation to public transportation and the presence of thirty-eight green areas, including parks, gardens, and woods, which are considered the most expressive tourist attractions for visitors. Furthermore, another relevant aspect of the city is its historical and cultural development, strongly marked by the presence of diverse ethnic groups which influence and distinguish its urban landscape, making it all the more attractive (Riberio and Silva 2006).
Still with reference to the touristic appeal of the city, it should be stated that since the 1990s, the administration of Curitiba has developed various projects dedicated to tourist transportation circulating between the principal sites of the city. Over the years, various routes have been proposed, as well as improvements and upgrades in the buses utilized (Silva, 2012; Hildebrand, Graça, and Milano, 2001; Hardt and Hardt, 2010; Gândara, Albach, and Vieira, 2008; Custódio, 2006; Kaick, Hardt and Oba, 2006).
The current model for tourist transportation is called the Linha Turismo (Tourism Line), administered by Urbanização de Curitiba S.A. (URBS, 2011). A double-decker bus is used, with information offered in three languages. Since 2008 the route has encompassed twenty-four sites, each with its own stop, tracing a circuit of 45 kilometers.
In this way, the itinerary of the Tourism Line gives the visitor a circuit that can be made in a day, while orienting passengers to excursion possibiities that could be realized on other days during their stay, considering that the ticket covers the trip plus four stop-offs along the way (URBS, 2012), to be chosen by the passenger in accord with his or her interests and preferences.
The breadth and diversity of attractions making up the route helps elevate visitation from the various sectors of tourists, supporting the establishment of a system of tourist transport integrating the various sites, which in turn stimulates visitation and
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increasing the movement of tourists in these spaces, which can be seen in the following figure:
Figure 3. Spatial distribution of Souvenir Commerce in Curitiba
Source: Horodyski e Gândara (2012).
Figure 3 show the locations of souvenir commerce in Curitiba in relation to the tourist sites along the Linha Turismo, showing its link to tourism at these destinations. The following section addresses the research methodology used to structure this study.
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Research Methodology
With the goal of exploring the question of gastronomic souvenirs, our investigation was developed around a case study of the municipality of Curitiba, Paraná state, southern Brazil, aiming to identify and analyze the range of foods and beverages sold at shops and stands selling souvenirs. As a way to operationalize the field work, a spatial sample delineated by the route of the Linha Turismo was adopted, comprising the twenty-four sites forming the principal tourist attractions of the city.
All of the stops along the Linha Tourismo were studied, identifying the establishments selling souvenirs, which could be either stores or open markets, so long as they were located in or around the tourist attraction, at a distance that could be visited within thirty minutes, the time available until the following bus departs for the next stop. As determining factors in selecting a given establishment for research, the study applied the criterion that somewhere on the window or sign of the store, or some other element of a stand, there should be the term(s) “souvenir” (souvenir, or lembrança), “craftwork” (artesanato), or “traditional products” (produtos típicos).
Based on this selection, all the products for sale fitting the category of foods or were identified and categorized according to: type of product, identification, packaging, transport, and identity. The results of this research were analyzed and validated for comparison with prior studies and discussions touching on these same questions.
Results
The following table presents the gathered data, identifying the foods and beverages on sale at souvenir establishments found around the stops of the Linha Turismo, and indicating whether the products took into consideration the four dimensions explicated above as relevant to the marketing of gastronomic souvenirs (N, no; P, partially; and C, completely). Of the twenty four stops studied, fourteen offered gastronomic souvenirs for sale, and the results are organized by site:
The field study proved relevant toward appreciating the sale of gastronomic souvenirs in Curitiba, confirming the breadth of items for sale, evident in Table 01. Here we explore some themes that emergeed from an empirical and theoretical analysis of the results, drawing on the contributions of the many authors forming a foundation for the present study.
It was found that, among food and beverage souvenirs, there are various items displaying local brands (Gordon, 1986), including designs evoking symbols of cultural identity in Curitiba (Pollak, 1992 ; Cuche, 2002), such as the fruit of the araucaria pine, a characteristic tree of Paraná state, or emblems linked to the principal historical or cultural heritage of the municipality. This was especially true for chocolates, some of which highlighted the name Curitiba, reflecting the impact of the name for some tourists (Rabassa, 2012 ; Fandinõ and Xaime, 2002).
The chocolates made specifically for the tourist market in Curitiba are sold at various stops along the Linha Turismo, such as the Ópera de Arame, Santa Felicidade, the Setor Histórico, and the Mercado Municipal. This last site notably had a broad range of herbs, fruits, vegetables, grains, animal products, flowers, and sweets, among other things, for sale. Given the breadth of the market, the study maintained its selection criteria among these establishments, focusing only on stores and stands that displayed references to the sale of souvenirs. It is for this reason, in applying a consistent methodology, that only the chocolates featuring the name of Curitiba are listed, found in two different stores.
Also featuring the brand of Curitiba were wines, beers and liquors which highlight the name of the city on the label (Rabassa, 2012; Fandinõ and Xaime, 2002), as occurred similarly with the name of the traditional neighborhood of Santa Felicidade, whose cultural identity (Santos, 2004; Hall, 2002; Haesbaert, 1999), inherited from Italian immigrants, influenced the production of wines and other products. In this case, the label can communicate specific aspects of Curitiba’s cultural identity (Machado, Santos, Albinati and Santos, 2006 ; Guadalupe, 2000), being a marketing tool (Guadalupe, 2000; Valls, 2004; Bigné, Font, Andreu, 2000) for tourism to a neighborhood that is considered the gastronomic hub of the city.
Again touching on Curitiba’s cultural identity, there also stand out products bearing the influence of other ethnic groups which settled the region, and which characterize Curitiba as a multicultural city. For example, biscuits, cakes, and strudels with German influence are sold in the Bosque Alemão (German Woods) and, similarly, Polish tarts are sold in the Bosque do Papa (The Pope’s Grove), which pays homage to Polish immigrants and the visit of Pope John-Paul II to Curitiba. In these two cases, it was noted that the “German” products are more likely to be purchased as souvenirs, as their packaging is more adequate for being transported (ANVISA, 2012), and their labels bear information about the product and the logo of the bakery (Machado, Santos, Albinati and Santos, 2006). Some of the pastries served at the locale can be carried out, and the company offers plastic containers, as was the case with the Polish pastries at the other site. It is believed that the tourists interested in these kinds of products form part of the group of individuals who look to purchase authentic items at tourist destinations, without so much concern about branding (Love and Sheldon, 1998).
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In other regards, a range of products with the label “organic” were identified, attesting to sustainable production free of agrochemicals, which could be attractive to tourists with more travel experience or greater interest in having contact with another’s culture (Love and Sheldon, 1998). The organic designation isn’t directly associated with the tourist image of Curitiba, but may lend a positive impression of the visited geographic space. Such products were identified in a market for organic foods at the Passeio Público, where one can find everything from fruits and vegetables to crackers, pastries, focaccia, sweets, compotes, preserves, juices, cereals, cultured milk, and honey, among other items. While we acknowledge that not all these products have the characteristics of a souvenir, appealing rather to consumption on site (the cultured milk, for example). Nonetheless, those items which are wrapped and labeled appropriately could be turned into gastronomic souvenirs for the tourists who value organic products.
The organic products referred to above are produced in the Curitiba metropolitan area, highlighting the importance of an approach centering on territorial identity of Curitiba and its surrounding municipalities. (Tuan, 1990; Anton Clavé, 2010, Hasbaert, 1999 ; Bonnemaison, 2002 ; Haesbaert 2005, Azevedo, 2011). In the ambit of tourism, some of the foods and beverages that are produced at important regional tourist sites that complement those of Curitiba are also found at several stops along the Linha Turismo. Among these are: ginger candies; banana de Antonina sweets; banana and manioc chips; and cachaça made from sugarcane, banana or honey from the city of Morretes—all items considered typical of the Paraná coast.
Enlarging the geographic scale, various elements related to the identity of the southern region of Brazil are found as gastronomic souvenirs in Curitiba. These include maté, chimia (a German jam), wines, cheeses, salamis, and grape juices. From the point of view of tourists, these products form part of the identity of Curitiba, given its identification with the region within which it is inserted, which includes three states: Paraná, Santa Catarina, and Rio Grande do Sul.
At the national level, a great variety of products are found as tourist souvenirs, including those with the brand “Brazil”. Standing out are cachaça, guava paste, doce de leite, and coconut sweets. The majority of these have origins in the state of Minas Gerais, located in the southeastern region of Brazil and known for the quality of its foods, significantly influencing the market for gastronomic souvenirs.
Meanwhile, we also found a number of foods and beverages which apparently are unrelated to local identity, such as fois gras and Argentinian alfajores. Given the proximity of Paraná to Argentina, as well as the presence of French immigrants in Paraná (though fewer than others, such as Germans or Poles), there may have been an influence of these peoples on the offer of gastronomic souvenirs. It must be acknowledged as well that many of these shops and markets are frequented by the residents of Curitiba, which gives the enterprises a broader base for their offerings.
The fieldwork that was realized is not without limitations. The most significant owes to the limited sample chosen for data collection, which was necessary given the size of the municipality of Curitiba. In selecting just one part of the urban space, a large part of the commercial and gastronomic establishments offering diverse kinds of foods and beverages to tourists was excluded, including pastry shops, bakeries, chocolate shops, ethnic and regional restaurants, not to mention the characteristic products of the region commonly encountered in supermarkets, such as barreado (a
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meat stew cooked in a clay pot) and pierogue (a Polish pastry), consumed by the population and accessible to tourists.
Final Considerations
With this study it was possible to confirm the breadth and variety of foods and beverages offered at commercial establishments selling souvenirs in Curitiba. The research succeeded in shedding light on the question of whether gastronomic souvenirs in Curitiba take into account the appropriate elements needed to respond to tourist demand. Therefore, it can be state that the objectives were reached, keeping in mind that the present work sough to identify and analyze the gastronomic souvenirs of Curitiba, Brazil. With regard to methodology, it was considered appropriate to establish a spatial sample for the field work, so as to be able visit each commercial establishment on site, and to be able to evaluate the products directly in order to analyze packaging, labels, suitability for transport, and whether the products were identified with Curitiba and the region, in accord with the theoretical framework established beforehand.
In this way, it was evident that the study of gastronomic souvenirs is quite broad and amenable to various analyses around the five variables presented here, and could be deepened and expanded. The study of gastronomic souvenirs is interdisciplinary, and the discussion here drew from theoretical references coming principally from the fields of geography, tourism, gastronomy and marketing. At the same time, this study was relevant for understanding the essential elements for marketing gastronomic souvenirs, from the perspective of what tourist demand considers relevant, that is: identification, packaging, transportability and identity.
Finally, it must be restated that there is a lack of studies on the theme, and understood that this article is the result of an initial approach, opening various possibilities for further investigation, contributing toward several areas of research. In the same way, the study was limited to the portion of the urban space where the Linha Turismo circulates, requiring new studies that would take into account other areas of the city of Curitiba, which may present innumerable particularities regarding the availability of foods and beverages, often attractive to the consumer-tourist.
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Translation Portuguese > English:
Daniel Hoffman PhD in Social-Cultural Anthropology, UC Berkeley
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