Introduction: o Location : Victoria is located at the southern tip of Vancouver Island. The Strait of Georgia separates Vancouver Island from Mainland British Columbia. Numerous other islands are located between these two land masses. The larger islands of this Gulf Island group are well populated and are accessible by ferry from Swartz Bay north of Victoria. Vancouver Island is 285 (460 km) long and up to 50 miles (80 km) wide. At 12,407 sq. miles (32,134 sq km), Vancouver Island is the largest Island on the West Coast of North America; Canada’s 11 th largest island; and the world’s 42 nd largest island. Vancouver Island is Canada’s second most populated Island after the Island of Montreal. An estimated 326,000 people live in the Greater Victoria region. o Climate : The climate of Victoria is classified as cool transitional Mediterranean, or sub-Mediterranean. Basically, this means that weather out here is wet during the winter and dry and warm during the summer. It is temperate and comfortable. According to Wikipedia, which is accurate 100% of the time 60% of the time, daily temperatures rise above 30°C (86°F) on average only twice per year. The highest recorded temperature in Victoria ever was 36.3°C (97.3°F) (on July 11, 2007). Summer temperatures generally range between 18°–32°C (65°-90°F). There is an average daytime high of 19.6°C (67°F) and low of 11.3°C (52°F). In my opinion, this last statistic is not viscerally accurate. On a cold and rainy summer day temperatures can reach as low as 10°C (50°F). This is, however, not representative of the average summer temperature. It is more common to experience a hot summer day with intense sun rays. It is most common to experience mild and comfortable days, warm to hot in the sun and cool in the shade. Evenings can get quite chilly. Think of fall weather. Haze and humidity are very rare. The only reason you notice either is because the views are so expansive. There is no smog. The air is pure and fresh straight off the Pacific Ocean. The ocean water is frigid year-round. Only polar bears go in there. Victoria BC: An Insider’s Guide
Transcript
Introduction:
o Location: Victoria is located at the southern tip of Vancouver Island. The Strait of Georgia separates Vancouver Island from
Mainland British Columbia. Numerous other islands are located between these two land masses. The larger islands of this Gulf Island group are well populated and are accessible by ferry from Swartz Bay north of Victoria.
Vancouver Island is 285 (460 km) long and up to 50 miles (80 km) wide.
At 12,407 sq. miles (32,134 sq km), Vancouver Island is the largest Island on the West Coast of North America; Canada’s 11th largest island; and the world’s 42nd largest island.
Vancouver Island is Canada’s second most populated Island after the Island of Montreal. An estimated 326,000 people live in the Greater Victoria region.
o Climate:
The climate of Victoria is classified as cool transitional Mediterranean, or sub-Mediterranean. Basically, this means that weather out here is wet during the winter and dry and warm during the summer. It is temperate and comfortable.
According to Wikipedia, which is accurate 100% of the time 60% of the time, daily temperatures rise above 30°C (86°F) on average only twice per year. The highest recorded temperature in Victoria ever was 36.3°C (97.3°F) (on July 11, 2007).
Summer temperatures generally range between 18°–32°C (65°-90°F). There is an average daytime high of 19.6°C (67°F) and low of 11.3°C (52°F).
In my opinion, this last statistic is not viscerally accurate. On a cold and rainy summer day temperatures can reach as low as 10°C (50°F). This is, however, not representative of the average summer temperature. It is more common to experience a hot summer day with intense sun rays. It is most common to experience mild and comfortable days, warm to hot in the sun and cool in the shade.
Evenings can get quite chilly. Think of fall weather. Haze and humidity are very rare. The only reason you
notice either is because the views are so expansive. There is no smog. The air is pure and fresh straight off the Pacific Ocean.
The ocean water is frigid year-round. Only polar bears go in there.
Victoria BC: An Insider’s Guide
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The weather is the most predictable I’ve ever seen. Either it rains or it doesn’t. Thundershowers are almost unheard of. It snows on average 1-3 times per year.
There is an almost constant offshore breeze which keeps the daytime temperature down and the nighttime temperature cool. On a warm day it can be quite comfortable, even cool in the shade.
The sea breeze also deters all biting bugs. Mosquitoes are rare and timid compared to their East Coast cousins. I’m writing in early August and I have been bit only about 4 times this year. There are no black flies, horseflies, or any other winged pests.
Victoria receives an average 2,183 – 2,223 hours of sunshine every year. The average annual rainfall of Victoria is 25". The average monthly rainfall of Victoria in the summer is less than 1". Compare this with Henderson Lake, on the west coast of Vancouver Island, which receives an annual rainfall as much as 260" (21 feet). Port Renfrew, only 80 km (50 mi) west of Victoria receives an average of 145" (12’) per year.
Victoria’s relatively dry climate is caused by the rain shadow effect. This metrological phenomenon can essentially be explained by the location of Victoria behind the mountains of the Olympic Peninsula. These mountains catch most of the rain clouds that blow into this area. The skies above Victoria are left with what many call a “blue bowl.”
o Flora / Fauna:
The rain shadow creates a distinct ecosystem that is often characterized by a species of native gnarled oak called Gary Oak. Today, about 98% of the Gary Oak ecosystems on the Island have been destroyed by development and logging. The few intact Gary Oak forests in the Victoria area are prime places to watch birds.
You will notice another peculiar tree around Victoria, called Arbutus. These trees, Canada’s only leafy evergreen, have a smooth, almost flesh-like bark. There are several mature specimens in the parking lot of the Interfaith Chapel at the University of Victoria.
Other trees native to this area include Douglas and Grand Firs, Western Red Cedar, and Sitka Spruce in the wetter areas of the west coast.
The sub-Mediterranean climate also permits the growth of exotic trees from similar climates worldwide. Several species of palm trees indigenous to the Mediterranean and Mexico have been planted throughout the city in public and residential spaces. A few species of banana trees also grow. You might also see the spiky Monkey Puzzle trees
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native to Argentina. Eucalyptus trees from Australia are rare, but they are around, spotted by their bluish bark.
Around the turn of the century, many Giant Sequoias were imported from California. Some of these trees have grown to enormous widths and heights. You will notice one in the lawn in front of the Parliament Buildings. Another can be found across from the petting zoo in Beacon Hill Park. The most impressive is at a residential address on the corner of Moss St. and Richardson in Fairfield, just east of the downtown core.
Five species of wild salmon inhabit the streams, rivers, and straits, and open ocean surrounding Vancouver Island. These include spring, coho, sockeye, chinook, and chum. Chinook grow to be as much as 70 pounds. After they reach 35 pounds, they are referred to as Tyee, meaning “chief” in Coast Salish. Many say the best to eat are sockeye and coho. I personally like sockeye because of its butter-like texture, deep red hue, and full flavor.
Pods of Orcas (killer whales) live in the straits between Vancouver Island and the Mainland. These pods generally follow the seasonal migration routes of salmon toward the Fraser River on the Mainland.
Grey and humpback whales make seasonal visits to the west coast of the Island.
Grizzly bears don’t live on the Island, but there are large numbers of black bears.
Vancouver Island is home to the largest population of cougars anywhere in North America.
Bald eagles and great blue herons are a usual site in Beacon Hill Park.
o First Nations:
In the pre-contact era, the Pacific Northwest supported one of the largest populations of Indigenous people anywhere in North America.
Villages were generally established on productive salmon-bearing rivers that supplied several varieties of salmon throughout the spring through the fall. Other sea-based subsistence activities included halibut fishing, clamming, gathering of sea weed, sea urchins, and bird eggs. Waterfowl were trapped using nets. Land-based activities included hunting and gathering wild berries, wild onions, and a multitude of other edible and medicinal plants, roots, and fruits.
There are two First Nations in the Victoria area, both of which have reserves just west of the city. These groups are the Songhees and the Esquimalt. Before the establishment of Fort Victoria as an Hudson’s Bay Company fur trading post in 1842, members of what is now generally known as
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the Songhees First Nation had settlements throughout the Victoria area. Hunting and fishing artifacts can still be found on many of Victoria’s beaches.
Four First Nations inhabit the Saanich Peninsula north of Victoria, where the ferries and airport are located. These include the Tsawout, Tseycum, Tsartlip, and Pauquachin. All of these groups, including the Songhees, traveled throughout the neighboring Gulf Islands during seasonal hunting and fishing rounds.
The abovementioned First Nations are part of a larger linguistic and cultural grouping known as Coast Salish. The Coast Salish inhabit the east side of Vancouver Island as far north as Comox/Courtney and as far west as Sooke. Two additional groups, the Kwakiutl and the Nuu-chahl-nuth respectively occupy the northern and western regions of the Island.
You will notice an impressive array of First Nations artwork throughout the city. One of the best places to view historic totem poles is at the Royal British Columbia Museum. Totem poles were not traditionally used by First Nations in this area. Many of these were taken from Northern Vancouver Island and from Haida Gwaii (the Queen Charlotte Islands.)
Local First Nations sell their artwork on the waterfront of the Inner Harbor directly down from the Parliament Buildings. Here, you will mainly find jewelry and small relief carvings of various animals with symbolic value to the Coast Salish.
Finally, if you are flying into Vancouver International Airport and if you have the time, take a look around at some of the artwork. I read somewhere that the airport has the largest private collection of Pacific Northwest First Nations artwork anywhere. One noteworthy piece is Bill Reid’s The Spirit of Haida Gwaii, the Jade Canoe. A picture of this large bronze sculpture is printed on the back of the new twenty dollar bill. This sculpture is located in the international departure terminal on the second floor.
How to Get Here:
o By plane: Most flights to Victoria connect either in Seattle or Vancouver. On a clear day, the flight from Seattle is a bit more scenic with the Olympic Mountains on the left and the American San Juan Islands all around. The route into town is clearly marked and the Victoria airport is small, clean, and easy to navigate. Basically, what you want to do is exit the airport to the left, follow the signs for Rt. 17 and follow this road straight into town.
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N.B.: Rt. 17 changes names to Blanchard Street once you reach the downtown area.
o By Ferry from Vancouver:
The ferry from Vancouver to Victoria (Tsawwassen – Swartz Bay) takes about 1 hr 35 min and costs about $11.15 per adult and up to $40.00 per car one-way. Barring strikes, bomb threats, mechanical difficulties, and the like, it is a pleasant ride through the many islands in the Gulf of Georgia between Mainland British Columbia and Vancouver Island. (I don’t mean to scare you with this last comment. All of these things have occurred fairly recently, but on the whole, the ferry system is efficient and on schedule.) There are several ways to make the voyage to and from the ferry. Speed of travel, convenience, and price are all closely correlated. Hopefully, you will find a method of travel below that best suits your personality.
Slow, patient, and on a shoestring. Take a city bus from the airport to the ferry terminal. If you are interested in this option, I suggest you check out the bus situation when you arrive. There should be an information kiosk in the airport. There are two connections and the price is several dollars. Unless you catch a rare express bus, the city buses on the Victoria side into town take forever. I don’t suggest this option.
Medium paced with half the hassle. Take Pacific Coach
Lines (PCL) directly from the airport to the ferry and back off again into Victoria. Bus terminal is downtown behind the Empress Hotel. I think this option is about $25.00 one-way, including ferry fare. Although the trip is mostly non-stop, it still seems to take a while, partly because the coach has to be first in line. They check your luggage for you and you drive right onto the ferry while on the coach. When you reach the airport ask someone to direct you to the PCL desk. I’ve noticed sometimes, especially when the bus is about to leave, that the PCL desk is left unstaffed. If this is the case, check outside and slightly to the right for the PCL terminal. If you are trying to get on at the last minute, you can buy a ticket outside by the bus. Bring Cash.
Get me there now I should have flown. If you want a little more independence, rent a car. There are car lots directly outside of the airport.
o By Ferry from Seattle:
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The Clipper Ferry from Seattle takes about 2 ½ hours, costs about $130 roundtrip and drops you off directly downtown in the Inner Harbor.
o Getting around Victoria by Bus:
You can pretty much get anywhere in Victoria even if you are not planning on renting a car – It just takes a little (sometimes a lot) of patience. Fares are now up to $2.25 including transfer. It costs a bit more to get to the ferries from downtown. For more, see the maps below and check out the Victoria Regional Transit System website.
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DOWNTOWN VICTORIA – Inner Harbor: o The British Columbia Parliament Buildings:
Completed in 1898, these magnificent buildings overlook the Inner Harbor and downtown Victoria. Admission is free and there are guided tours every hour or so. Self-guided tours are also available. The guided tours kind of annoy me so what I usually do is go in by myself and then meet up with the tour a few times in different areas of the building that I’d like to know more about. I highly recommend taking a walk around the perimeter of the buildings. Very few tourists take the time to see the back of the buildings, which is also quite impressive. There is a rose garden on the western side of the buildings. (See Plates 1, 2, & 3 below).
o The Empress Hotel:
This Edwardian Château-style hotel was completed in 1908. It was designed by Francis Rattenbury, the same architect that designed the Parliament Buildings and several other prominent buildings around town. Feel free to take a walk though the hotel. I especially like doing this in the evening when the crowds have died down and I have enough drinks in me to pretend that I actually have money. There are some very expensive restaurants and shops inside that are best just to look at. Another tourist trap at the Empress is high tea. For some reason, many tourists feel as though their Victoria experience would not be complete without spending $45.00 on dirty water and cucumber sandwiches. What I suggest is to go to Starbucks or some place like that, get a tea to go, and then walk around the Empress. (See Plates 4, & 5 below).
o The Inner Harbor:
The land locked Inner Harbor is located directly in front of the Empress and Parliament Buildings. As such, this is one of the touristiest places in town. Don’t let this deter you. During the summer, there are a lot of street performers and venders on the lower causeway both during the day and at night. I especially like the guy that plays five instruments at once. He’s down there in the evening around the center of the causeway. A small water taxi leaves from the inner harbor and bounces around other areas in the harbor. I have not tried it, but I think it’s only a few bucks. It might be a good way to get a different perspective on the city. Another way is to walk out from the Inner Harbor along the water. If you stay next to the water you will eventually reach Laurel Point, recognized by the terraced hotel set back behind a small manmade pond. This vantage point offers some views of the Inner Harbor. Keep walking and you’ll eventually end up at Fisherman’s Wharf (See Plate 7 below).
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o Beacon Hill Park: This historic park boasts the world’s tallest totem pole, a petting zoo, a cricket pitch, and many paths through beautiful cultivated and natural gardens. Check out the hill on the southern limit of the park for a great view of the Olympic Mountains on a clear day. Located in the western limits of Fairfield, this park is a short walk from the Inner Harbor and connects to Dallas Road. This circuit makes for a healthy jaunt. (See Plate 8 below).
o Dallas Road.
You can access Dallas Road through Beacon Hill Park or you can drive or walk through the residential community of James Bay, located directly south of the Parliament Buildings. If you take the latter route, you will notice a large breakwater jutting out toward the entrance of the mouth of Victoria Harbor. You can walk along this structure and get a warm drink at the café (cafeteria) at the entrance to the breakwater. The portion of Dallas Road directly in front of Beacon Hill Park is a prime spot to view the Olympic Mountains on a clear day (see Plate 9 below). There are many access points to the beach and several small landings that look out over the coastline. One of these is a local secret. It is located behind a “secret” bush, which is actually kind of obvious if you know what to look for. This area of Dallas Road is about as close as the scenery of Victoria gets to coastal Northern California, apart from all of the foreign Giant Sequoias of course. (See Plate 10 below) If you have a car, or if you rent a bicycle or moped, you can follow Dallas Road (which changes name to Crescent Road in Fairfield) all the way to Oak Bay on the eastern side of the southern tip of Vancouver Island. (See Plate 11 below for an aerial view of Gonzales Beach taken from Gonzales Hill.
o Other Attractions in the Inner Harbor (these are the attractions that
all of the tourists seem to know about, but the locals have never visited):
- Royal London Wax Museum. I’ve never been here, so I can’t tell you what its like. Lots of dead looking queens and stuff. Located at 470 Belleville St. 1-877-WAX-FACT
- Undersea Gardens. This is a small building in the
Inner Harbor with a glass basement. I have not had the chance to go here yet, but I imagine it’s a good place to check out some of the local sea life, purple
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starfishes and the like. Located at 490 Belleville St in front of the wax museum. 382-5717.
- Miniature World. With “over 80 exciting miniature
dioramas.” Located on the first floor of the Empress Hotel, 649 Humboltd St. 385-9731.
- Victoria Bug Zoo. Another good one for the kids. Not
something you see everyday unless you live in the Amazon. Located at 631 Courtney St. 384-2847.
- Crystal Gardens. This Brick building with a glass
ceiling originally housed a saltwater pool in the early 20th century. Last time I was up there, they had an exotic arboretum complete with lemurs. I’ve since heard that they have done something else with it. I’m not sure what.
DOWNTOWN VICTORIA – Northern Section:
Many of Victoria’s buildings were built in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Although some of these have fallen into disrepair and have been replaced in the last half-century (by parking garages no less), many streets retain their original frontier town charm. Listed below are the best spots. To fully experience downtown Victoria, I suggest walking throughout the area bounded by Herald St. to the north, Douglas St. to the east, Superior St. to the south, and Wharf St. to the west. The below sites are arranged from north to south. If you are starting your walk from the Inner Harbor, I suggest walking all the way up Government St. to Fisgard where Chinatown is located. From here you can make your way back to the Inner Harbor, hitting some of the more hidden sites that you might miss if just wandering around.
o Chinatown:
Chinese immigrants have long played a role in the economy and social diversity of Vancouver Island. Victoria’s Chinatown is small, but worth a look. Chinatown is mainly limited to Fisgard St. between Douglas and Wharf Streets. The beating heart is on Fisgard between Government and Wharf, but most of the noteworthy architecture is on Fisgard between Government and Douglas. The architecture in this part of town is a fusion of traditional Chinese and 19th century British. Be sure to check out Fan Tan Alley as long as you’re not claustrophobic. (See Plates 13-15).
o Market Square: This is one of Victoria’s two main historical squares. Located between Johnson, Pandora, Government, and Wharf Streets, It’s
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close to Chinatown and a logical next stop on your southward tour. In fact, Fan Tan Ally is across the street from the northern side of Market Square. Market square is totally boxed-in. There are many shops and some restaurants inside. (See Plate 16 below). Note. It is somewhat difficult to find you way into the square if you attempt to enter on the north side. If you’re having a really hard time, access the square from the south side on Johnson Street. There is a large sign here.
o Lower Johnson Street:
If you exit Market Square to the south, you will spill out directly onto Lower Johnson Street. Lower Johnson is the section west of Government Street (toward the harbor). Of all of the historic areas of town, this is perhaps the most flamboyant in terms of recent rejuvenation of original façade color schemes. (See Plate 17 below).
o Bastion Square:
Once the site of Fort Victoria, this square is now home to several restaurants and pubs. The original outline of one of the bastions of the fort is outlined in bricks at the intersection of the square and Government Street, right outside Irish Times pub. The bricks are inscribed with the names of the white guys inside and the Indians outside. Many historic buildings face the Square, including one that houses the British Columbia Maritime Museum (quite interesting if you have the time). Many times you will find street vendors set up in front of this building. Bastion Square is located between Yates, Fort, Government, and Wharf Streets, several blocks south of Market Square. There is a large sign at the entrance of the Square on Government St. It can also be accessed via Wharf Street. (See Plate 18 below).
o Getting back to the Inner Harbor from Bastion Square:
You can either walk along Wharf St or Government St. Take Wharf St. for a view of the water. Take Government if you like a bit more action, i.e. shops and eateries.
o Christchurch Cathedral:
If you feel like a detour on the way back to the Inner Harbor, I suggest making the walk to Christchurch Cathedral. There are several impressive churches in town, but as a primarily British settlement, this Anglican Church, one of the largest in Canada, is certainly the most impressive religious structure in town. For a good view of the church, drive or walk up Courtney Street. You’ll
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run right into it. Once there, go inside to see the brick vaulted ceilings and other ecclesiastical accoutrements like the brand new organ pipes. I also suggest walking around the perimeter of the building. The labyrinth on the south side of the building is always a fun way to relax. (See Plate 19 below).
- Located at the corner of Courtney and Quadra Streets.
o Movie Theatres: There are several centrally located theatres. The first two listed below show current movies at about $10.00 per ticket. The third shows movies that are in between the big screens and home video. This one is located just out of town and is $5.00 for two back-to-back movies.
- Odeon Theatre. 636 Yates St (Corner of Blanchard) 385-3327
- Capitol 6 Theatre. 780 Yates St (across Blanchard from Odeon Theatre. 384-6811.
- Roxy Theatre. 2657 Quadra St. in Quadra St. Village. 382-3370.
Fairfield and Rockland:
o Craigdaroch Castle: This is a Victorian-era mansion, built in the 1890s by wealthy BC coal baron Robert Dunsmuir. At 20,000 sq. feet, this residence is the largest in town. Adult admission is $11.75; admission for children is $3.75. (See Plate 20 below).
- 1050 Joan Cresent. 592-5323.
o Gonzales Hill / Beach: My favorite beach in town. The hill overlooks a very nice beach (Gonzales Bay) and the rest of Fairfield.
Saanich Peninsula: Unless you come to Victoria on the Clipper
ferry from Seattle, you will be arriving to the Island by way of the Saanich Peninsula north of Victoria.
o Butchart Gardens. This is one of Victoria’s most popular
tourist attractions, some one million people visit each year. These sunken gardens were first planted in an abandoned limestone quarry in 1904. The gardens are located next to the seaside village of Brentwood Bay on the Saanich Peninsula, about 20 minutes north of Victoria. If you decide to make the trip out here, plan on spending the better part of the day when its all said and done. Check their website for a map. 652-4422. (See Plate 21 below).
For a View: Victoria is for the most part flat, but there are several
sizable hills that afford views of downtown, the straits, and mountains. The following hills and mountains are located throughout town.
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o Mount Douglas. Located north of Town close to the University. You will pass the road that leads up to the top of this mountain on your way from the ceremony at UVic to the reception in Cordova Bay. This is the largest mountain in town and affords 360 views.
o Mt. Tolmie. More centrally located, but also very close to UVic. Good views of downtown and the Olympic Mountains. You can drive up.
o Gonzales Hill. See above. o Chirstmas Hill. This is the smallest one listed. It is difficult to
find, but offers the best views of the area north of the city. Where to Eat:
I recently read somewhere that Victoria has the second most restaurants per capita anywhere in all of North America. This list includes only a select few of the many fine eateries within walking distance of the downtown core. Approximate prices are shown on a 5-point dollar sign scale. One dollar sign equals about $10 or less per dinner plate. Five dollar signs equal $30 or more per plate. Also, this list was compiled with dinner in mind. Many of these places also serve lunch. There are countless other sandwich shops and such throughout the city, many of which are pretty good. I’m not going to say that you can’t get a bad meal, but there is some competition here.
o Greek: Millos. This whitewashed windmill in the middle of downtown
serves up a good rack of lamb. Sometimes they have traditional dancers, which can be interesting ($$$ - $$$$). - Located on Humbolt St. between Douglas and Blanchard.
Passero’s. I’ve never actually been here, but I’ve heard really good things about their Greek food. They also serve Italian. This restaurant is located slightly outside of the downtown core ($$$). Located at 1002 Yates St. 384-6474.
o Italian:
Pagliacci’s. This place is pretty authentic and usually packed around dinnertime so you might want to make prior arrangements. Sometimes they have a three-piece jazz band ($$ - $$$). - Located at 1011 Broad Street between Fort and Broughton. (250) 386-1662.
Il Terrazo. This is Victoria’s premier Italian restaurant in my opinion ($$$$) - Located in Waddington Alley just up from Wharf Street, between Johnson and Yates. 361-0028.
o North American:
The Keg: Really good steak. ($$$-$$$$) - Located at 500 Fort Street just up from Wharf St. 386-7789.
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o Seafood: There are a lot of good sea food restaurants in town, mostly centered around Wharf St in the Bastion Square area. Everything is fresh and right off the boat. Ferris’ Oyster Bar: This is a good place to get a good portion
of really good relatively inexpensive food. It also has a nice cozy ambiance. I recommend a plate of raw local oysters. These come with six different types of dipping sauce. They also do a mix of sweet potato and regular fries that are really good. I’ve heard people say that they prefer Ferris’ for lunch over dinner due to the limited selection, cost etc. I can see where they are coming from, but I still think it’s a good joint after dark ($$-$$$). - Located at 536 Yates Street just up from Wharf St. 360-1824.
Nautical Nellie’s: I’ve never been here, but everybody raves about it. It’s a bit too much for my wallet. ($$$$). - Located at the corner of Wharf and Broughton Streets. 380-2260.
Fish and Chips: Victoria is known for fish and chips. In my opinion, the best places are just outside of the downtown core in residential areas. I suppose they have to “hook” potential regulars (that was just bad). One of the most famous (and best) places is located at Fisherman’s wharf, about ten to fifteen minutes walk from the parliament buildings toward James Bay. “Barb’s” prides itself on being a floating fish and chips shack. As a side note, some tourists are disappointed by Fisherman’s Wharf probably because they base their expectations on San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf. It’s not big, but then there’s no misnomer. It’s a wharf; that’s all. ($) - Located at Fisherman’s Wharf, Erie St. 384-6515. Another good spot is Fairfield Fish and Chips on the corner of Fairfield Road and Moss Street in central Fairfield. This is a bit of a walk from town. ($).
o Spanish:
The Tapa Bar Restaurant. Very good tapas menu I’ve been told. ($$$$) - Located at 620 Trounce Alley, just up from Government St. in between Fort and Yates.
o German: The Rathskellar. Awesome German food, mind you, you
have to be prepared to eat meat covered in meat. I always have a great time here. - Located at 1205 Quadra St at the corner of View St. 386-9348.
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o Chinese: I’m actually not a big fan of Chinese food, but Victoria has a
good size Chinese population and I’m sure that if this is really what you want, you’ll find something in Chinatown. I think Don Mees in Chinatown is a pretty good one. - Located at 538 Fisgard St in Central Chinatown. 383-1032.
o Thai:
o There are a lot of Thai restaurants in town, all of which are pretty good. Around the downtown area, I like My Thai Restaurant ($$). - Located just outside of the downtown core at 1020 Cook St. between Meares St. and Rockland Ave. 472-7574.
o Vietnamese:
There aren’t too many Vietnamese restaurants that I know of in town. We usually go to one on the corner of Pandora and Cook beside a convenience store – I can’t think of the name. It’s not much to look at but the food is good, especially the peanut sauce ($$).
Kim's Vietnamese Restaurant located at 748 Johnson Street is also supposed to be quite good. 385-0455.
o Nepalese:
The Mint. Although this is not exclusively a Nepalese restaurant, the menu offers a multitude of traditional Nepalese dishes, which is kind of interesting. ($$) Located at 1414 Douglas St. in between Pandora and Johnson. 388-6077.
o Caribbean:
The Reef. Jerk specialties. I especially like the hot Johnny Cakes. They’re delicious. ($$) Located at 533 Yates just up from Wharf Street. 388-5375.
o Mexican:
Cafe Mexico. Your basic Mexican food, but good. Located in Market Square. You can get a table out back and look over the Square, which is kind of fun. ($$)
o Ethiopian:
Mesob. The food here is really good and cheap. This little café is located in a small cafeteria that also houses sushi, Thai, and coffee joints. This is a neat spot close to Beacon Hill Park and Dallas Road. Located in a residential area, it’s a bit difficult to find. ($)
o Vegetarian:
Rebar. I’ve heard good things about this restaurant. ($$)
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- Located at 50 Bastion Square 361-9223.
o Pizza: Ali Baba’s. By the slice or by the pie, this pizza was just
voted the Island’s best for good reason. - Located at 775 Fort St. between View and Broughton. 385- 6668.
Second Slice Pizza. This is our local 99-cent per slice pizza joint. I don’t recommend eating here unless you’re really hungry late at night. With that said, I go here almost every weekend. - 1302 Douglas St between Johnson and Yates. 380-0866.
o Breakfast: Victoria’s a good town for gourmet breakfast. Listed
below are just a few suggestions for failsafe kitchens. Floyd’s Diner. BIG portions of delicious food. You can
usually get away with splitting a plate with someone. Try out their large selection eggs benny. - 866 Yates St. between Blanchard and Quadra. 381-5114.
The Blue Fox. Slightly gourmet. This place is usually packed on the weekends so bring a granola bar to hold yourself over while waiting in line.
- 919 Fort St. just up between Quadra and Cook. 380-1683
John’s Place. Good ol’ breakfast. - Located at 723 Pandora Ave between Cormorant and Johnson.
Where to Drink:
o For a View: Vista 18. Located on the 18th floor of a downtown building,
this restaurant / bar offers 360º views of Victoria, including Fairfield and Mount Baker to the east, the Olympic Mountains to the south, the backside of the Empress hotel to the west and Mount Douglas to the north. I’ve been told that the food is poor and expensive, but the appies aren’t too bad and are sort of tapas-style. Best probably to stick with the cocktails that’s what I do. - Located at the top of the Château Victoria Hotel, 740 Burdett Ave. between Blanchard and Douglas Street.
o For some live music: Irish Times: Live Celtic music every night. This new
restaurant / pub is located in the historical Bank of Montreal Building. It offers numerous beers from throughout Great Britain and Ireland on tap; however, it’s best to limit you consumption here as a pint of beer will run you about $7.50. Generally, I like to go to the much more reasonably priced Garrick’s Head pub across the street, also in Bastian Square and maybe make it over to the Times for one beer.
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- Located at the entrance of Bastion Square, 1200 Government Street. 383-7775.
o For a game The Game Room at the Sticky Wicket. The game room has
lots of pool tables and dartboards. It connects to the Strathcona Lounge and the Sticky Wicket Club. 919 Douglas Street on the corner of Courtney Street.
o For a laugh Big Bad John’s. This is an old fashion peanut shells on the
floor, bras of satisfied customers on the wall, Johnny Cash playing establishment. Just watch out. Big bad Johnny has an intricate network of cables attached to various rubber spiders and snakes that he drops down on people when they least expect it. - 919 Douglas Street on the corner of Coutney Street (in the Sticky Wicket complex).
o For a Local Brew: Hugo’s. This place has a good mix of the younger and older
crowd and its somewhere between a large bar and a small club (depending on the time of the day). They serve a variety of house brewed beers including Super G, which contains Ginseng extract for those who need a little extra blood flow to the brain (or elsewhere) after a long night.
Spinnakers. This is one of my old haunts for a few reasons. This loft-style restaurant / pub has a great view of the Inner Harbor from the balcony Free darts and free pool (if you play on the broken pool table) and good food.
Canoe Club. Located in a converted brick warehouse, this bar / restaurant has the largest outdoor patio I can think of. Good food, good beer, and a great atmosphere. - Located at 450 Swift St. 361-1940.
o For a Boot of Beer: The Rathskellar. Serves German beer in one and two liter
glass boots. Make sure you drink the boot with the toe towards you; otherwise, you’ll get kicked in the face with a beer roundhouse (see above for contact information).
o For a Game of Volleyball: The Rooftop of the Sticky Wicket. There are two sand
volleyball courts and a bar on the roof of the Sticky Wicket complex (see above for contact information).
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MAPS: These should help you get around town.
Inner Harbor
Laurel Point
Towards James Bay
Wax museum / undersea gardens
Parliament Buildings
Royal BC Museum (highlighted)
Empress Hotel
Crystal Gardens
Causeway
Government Street Towards Downtown
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Totem Pole (Not shown on map)
Although not shown on this map, Beacon Hill Park connects with Dallas Road and the ocean
Breakwater
Fisherman’s Wharf
Chinatown Market Sq. / Lower Johnson St.
Giant Sequoia in residential area
Cathedral
Cricket Pitch Petting Zoo
Bastion Sq.
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Figures 1 – 3: Various views of the British Columbia Parliament Buildings.
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Plates 4 – 5: Perspectives of the Empress Hotel and Inner Harbor.
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Plate 7 View of Inner Harbor from in front of the Parliament Buildings.
Plate 8: The World’s largest totem pole, Beacon Hill Park.
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Plate 9: The Olympic Mountains
This picture was taken somewhere on Dallas Road in Victoria looking south to the Olympic Range on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington. The large mountain shown here is Mt. Olympus. It rises 7,963 feet pretty much directly out of the water and supports large glaciers due to the great amount of precipitation in the Olympic Mountains. Plate 10: The Bluffs down from Dallas Road.
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Plate 11: View of Fairfield looking west toward Dallas Road from Gonzales Hill.
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Plate 13: Gate into Chinatown at the corner of Fisgard and Government Plate 14: Fan Tan Alley
Plate 15: Fusion of East and West architecture. This building is located on Fisgard between Douglas and Government.
