© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson
Ciao Bella Size 1-12
View A View B
Fabric Requirements (in yards)
*Fabric requirements based on 44/45” wide fabric.
Suggested fabrics: Designed for both wovens (such as cotton, voile, lawn, eyelet, plisse, batiste, and broadcloth) and stretch knits with 25% stretch across the grain (such as jersey, interlock, matte jersey, double knit) Notions: Universal or Ball-point needle, Polyester thread, 1 package of ¼” wide elastic, 1 package of ½” wide elastic OPTIONAL: Wooly Nylon or Maxilock Stretch Thread if using knits.
Web: www.ellieinspired.com [email protected]
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Qu
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Mea
sure
View A View B
Size 1 2 3 4 5 6
View A 1 1 5/8 1 5/8 1 7/8 2 2 1/4
View B 3/4 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 1/2 1 1/2 1 3/4
Size 7 8 9 10 11 12
View A 2 1/4 2 1/2 2 5/8 3 2 7/8 3 1/4
View B 1 3/4 2 2 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 1/2
Ciao Bella is written for wovens and stretch knits . View A has an optional overskirt of overlapping ruffles. View B has a ruffle attached to the bottom. Both have elasticized neckline, sleeves, and waistband. This pattern is suitable for beginner sewers.
Girls love this comfortable easy-to-wear top.
© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 3
FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS
*includes ease
**from shoulder to hem.
Ciao Bella by Laura Johnson
Please read through all directions before beginning.
Size 1 2 3 4
Chest* 20” 21” 22” 23”
Length** 12” 13 ½” 15” 16 ½”
Size 5 6 7 8
Chest* 24” 25” 26” 27”
Length** 18” 19 ½” 21” 22 ½”
Size 9 10 11 12
Chest* 28” 29” 30” 31”
Length** 24” 25 ½” 27” 28 ½”
GLOSSARY
Finishing seam edges – There are three ways to achieve a
professional seam inside your garment with this pattern:
1. Use a serger when stitching the seams.
2. Use an overlock stitch or a zig-zag stitch on your sewing
machine when stitching the seam.
3. Use French seams to enclose raw edges.
Shaded areas in diagram – In all of the diagrams in this
pattern, the shaded areas are the wrong side of the
garment.
Armscye – Armhole opening.
NOTE: If French seams are going to be used, cut out pattern
pieces with an additional seam allowance of ¼”.
All seam allowances are ¼” unless otherwise stated.
• Cut out BOTH the front and back bodice pieces according
to the measurements.
Size 1 2 3 4
(length x width)
10” x 14 ½”
11 ½” x 15”
13” x 15 ½”
14 ½” x 16”
Size 5 6 7 8
(length x width)
16” x 16 ½”
17 ½” x 17”
19” x 17 ½”
20 ½” x 18”
Size 9 10 11 12
(length x width)
22” x 18 ½”
23 ½” x 19”
25” x 19 ½”
26 ½” x 20”
• Cut out TWO sleeves according to these measurements:
Size 1 2 3 4
(length x width)
7” x 14” 7 ½” x 14 ½”
8” x 14 ½”
8 ½” x 15”
Size 5 6 7 8
(length x width)
9” x 15 ½”
9 ½” x 15 ½”
10” x 16”
10 ½” x 16 ½”
Size 9 10 11 12
(length x width)
11” x 16 ½”
11 ½” x 17”
12” x 17 ½”
12 ½” x 17 ½”
• Cut out armsyce of the bodices and sleeves.
To cut out the armscye, fold each bodice piece and each sleeve piece in half widthwise so that raw edges are even. Place the arm curve along the raw edges
and cut along outer curve for armscye. See the diagram and pattern pieces on the following page.
© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 4
Designed by Laura Johnson Copyright © August 2012
www.ellieinspired.com
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11 1”
“Ciao Bella” ELLIE INSPIRED Armscye Curve
Use to cut each side of sleeve,
front bodice, and back bodice
“Ciao Bella” ELLIE INSPIRED Armscye Curve
Use to cut each side of sleeve,
front bodice, and back bodice
FOLD
TOP TOP
TOP
SIDE
SIDE
SIDE
© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 5
• Cut out TWO of the ruffle (called the third tier below).
• 1st and 2nd tiers are an optional overskirt shown in View A. Cut TWO of these as well.
• Cut out waistband 2 1/2” wide by the following length:
Size 1 2 3 4 5 6
1st Tier 4 ¼” x 20” 4 ¾” x 23” 5 ¼” x 26” 6”x 29” 6 ½”x 31” 7 ¾”x34”
2nd Tier 4 ¼” x 20” 4 ¾” x 23” 5 ¼” x 26” 6”x 29” 6 ½”x 31” 7 ¾”x34”
3rd Tier 3 ½” x 20” 3 ½” x 23” 4” x 26” 4” x 29” 4 ½” x 31” 5” x 34”
Size 7 8 9 10 11 12
1st Tier 8 ¼”x 37” 9”x40” 9 ½”x 43” 10 ¼”x45” 10 ¾”x45” 11 ½”x45”
2nd Tier 8 ¼”x 37” 9”x40” 9 ½”x 43” 10 ¼”x45” 10 ¾”x45” 11 ½”x45”
3rd Tier 5” x 37” 5 ½ x 40” 5 ½” x 43” 6” x 45” 6” x 45” 6 ½ x 45”
Size 1 2 3 4 5 6
Length 29” 30” 31” 32” 33” 34”
Size 7 8 9 10 11 12
Length 35” 36” 37” 38” 39” 40”
© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 6
SEWING THE TOP
Bodice Construction:
1. Complete embroidery on
shirt front, if desired.
2. Place one sleeve on top
of the shirt front with right
sides together. Stitch
along angled side with
a finished seam edge.
3. Place shirt back to the
sleeve with right sides
together. Stitch along
other angled side with
a finished seam edge.
4. Repeat with other sleeve so that the shirt is
joined in a circle.
© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 7
Stitching the Side Seams:
1. Fold the shirt in half, right sides together, at the
arms and match front arm seams with back
arm seams. Make sure sleeve opening edges
and bottom of shirt pieces match.
2. Stitch from sleeve opening
under the arm and down the
sides of the shirt with a finished
seam edge.
2. Stitch in place, close the folded edge and leave
a small opening at the center back to insert the
elastic.
3. Cut a length of ¼” elastic the measurement
below and thread through the opening. (Use a
safety pin to feed the elastic through the casing.
Use another safety pin to prevent the other end
from slipping through.
Finishing the Neckline:
1. Press the top of the neckline to the inside ¼”.
Press again ½” to the inside of the garment.
Size 1 2 3 4 5 6
Elastic 15 ½” 16” 16 ½” 17” 17 ½” 18”
Size 7 8 9 10 11 12
Elastic 18 ½” 19” 19 ½” 20” 20 ½” 21”
© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 8
4. Join the ends of elastic securely by stitching
several rows with a zig-zag stitch. Trim any
extra. Stitch the opening at the center back
closed.
3. Join the ends of elastic securely by stitching
several rows with a zig-zag stitch. Trim any extra.
Stitch the opening closed.
Size 1 2 3 4 5 6
Elastic 6 ¾” 7” 7 ¼” 7 ½” 7 ¾” 8”
Size 7 8 9 10 11 12
Elastic 8 ¼” 8 ½” 8 ¾” 9” 9 ¼” 9 ½”
2. Cut a length of ¼” elastic the measurement
below and thread through the opening. (Use a
safety pin as before.)
Finishing the Sleeves:
1. Hem the bottom of each sleeve by pressing up
¼” and again another ¼”, enclosing the raw
edge. Stitch close to folded edge, leaving an
opening to insert the elastic.
© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 9
Attaching the Bottom Ruffle: Hemming the Ruffles:
NOTE: If using knit fabric, it may need to be stabilized
to reduce stretching the hem out of shape. To do
this: stabilize the hem with strips of fusible interfacing,
which also anchor the hem during stitching.
Traditional Hem:
1. Join the strips of fabric by placing right sides
together and stitching the short sides.
2. Press the bottom of the strip of fabric up ¼” and
again ¼”, enclosing the raw edge or serge the
edge and press the hem up ¼”.
2. If using a knit that is very stretchy or prone to roll, a
little spray starch may be necessary before
pressing.
1. Stitch two rows of gathering threads ¼” apart
all the way around the top of the ruffle.
2. Pull the ends of the gathering threads to gather
the top of the tier.
3. Place the tier over the
bottom of the shirt,
right sides together
and matching side
seams. Adjust gathers
to fit.
4. Stitch ruffle to bodice,
slightly to the inside of
the gathering threads.
Press seam up and top-stitch in place,
if desired.
© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 10
Attaching the Optional Skirt Tiers (View A):
1. Measure from the bottom of the armscye 2” and
mark a line straight across. This line can
be pressed with an iron or drawn with a
washaway pen. This will mark the top of the first
ruffle.
2. Measure again from that line down according to
the chart below and mark or press another line.
2”
according to chart
Size 1 2 3 4 5 6
2 ¼” 2 ¾” 3 ¼” 4” 4 ½” 5 ¾”
Size 7 8 9 10 11 12
6 ¼” 7” 7 ½” 8 ¼” 8 ¾” 9 ½”
© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 11
8. Place the tier on the top marked line with the
wrong side to the right side of the bodice.
Adjust gathers to fit.
9. Stitch tier to bodice, slightly to the
inside of the gathering threads.
3. Stitch two rows of gathering threads ¼” apart
all the way around the top of the skirt tiers.
4. Pull the ends of the gathering threads to gather
the top of the tier.
5. Place the tier on the bottom one of the
previously marked lines, right sides together
and matching side seams. Adjust gathers to fit.
6. Stitch tier to bodice, slightly to the inside of the
gathering threads. Fold tier down and
top-stitch in place.
7. Repeat steps #1-2 with remaining skirt tier.
© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 12
Attaching the Waistband:
1. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, right
sides together. Stitch long edge (fig A.) Turn
right side and press (fig. B).
2. Placing the waistband:
a. FOR VIEW A: Place waistband over the seam
used to attach the top skirt tier.
b. FOR VIEW B: Measure 1 ½” down from the
bottom of the armscye. Press a line around
the bodice to mark placement of the
waistband.
4. The ends should overlap under one of the
sleeves. Stitch in place close to each edge,
leaving each end free.
5. Thread 1/2” elastic the following measurement
through the waistband.
6. Stitch to secure each elastic end inside the
waistband.
7. Overlap the ends of the waistband and fold in
the raw edges. Stitch the finished ends of the
waistband to the top.
A. B.
Size 1 2 3 4 5 6
Elastic 20” 21” 22” 23” 24” 25”
Size 7 8 9 10 11 12
Elastic 26” 27” 28” 29” 30” 31”
View A View B
© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 13
TIPS FOR SEWING WITH KNITS
Types of Knits:
1. Stable Knits – Knits with 18-25% stretch ratio. Example:
polar fleece and sweat fabrics.
2. Moderate Knits - Knits with 26-50% stretch ratio.
Example: T-shirt fabric, interlocks, jerseys, double-knits.
3. Stretchy Knits - Knits with 51-75% stretch ratio.
Example: velour, stretch terry, some T-shirt fabrics.
4. Super-Stretch Knits - Knits with 76-100% stretch ratio.
Example: spandex, nylon spandex, cotton spandex,
jumbo spandex.
5. Rib Knits - Knits with up to 100% stretch ratio. Rib knits
are created by alternating vertical stripes of
stockinette stitch with vertical stripes of reverse
stockinette stitch. 1x1 Ribs stretch more than 2x2 or
3x3 ribs. Example: cuff ribbing, waistband ribbing,
crew neck collars.
6. Sweater Knits - Knits with 18-50% stretch ratio.
Example: sweaters and sweater dresses.
7. Stretch Wovens - Knits with less than 18% stretch ratio.
Stretch wovens are created by weaving lycra within
fabric.
Pressing Knits: It is not necessary to press knits while
constructing the garment since they do not take a
sharp crease. However, the garment can be blocked
when finished to shape it, make the hems lie flat, and
relax stitching and elastic.
Interfacing: Interfacing should be used very sparingly
with knits because it will prevent the knit from
stretching. If interfacing must be used, use tricot
interfacing which has a cross-wise stretch. It will not
bubble or pucker like Pellon or woven fusing. Stabilizers
such as twill tape, seam binding, or a piece of woven
selvage can be used to reinforce shoulder seams and
prevent the garment from stretching out of shape.
Machine Stitches:
1. Stretch Stitch – The stretch stitch looks like a lightning
bolt on the sewing machine. It is a great choice to
cut down on skipped and broken stitches.
2. Zig-Zag Stitch: A stitch that goes one
way (zig), then the other (zag), which
gives the fabric more room to stretch.
© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 14
Notions:
1. Ball-point needles – Sharp needles pierce the fabric
and cut the fibers. Ballpoint needles have rounded
tips and are designed to glide through the loops
instead so that the fabric is not harmed.
2. Polyester thread - Polyester thread has more elasticity
and can stretch a little with the fabric. Use polyester
thread in the needle to create stable seams.
3. Wooly Nylon or Maxilock Stretch thread – These
threads create seams that recover after being
stretched, which is a great benefit when sewing knit
fabrics. Use this thread in the upper looper of the
serger and in the bobbin of the sewing machine. It
also offers great coverage when stitching rolled hems.
Fold-Over Elastic, Bindings, and Ribbed Finishes:
1. Fold-Over Elastic: This can be used to bind edges. It
is a stretchy trim with a knitted-in foldline. It
stretches, comes in different widths, shiny, matte, or
picot-edged.
2. Self-Fabric Bindings: Use a knit with a high stretch
ratio.
3. Ribbed Finishes: When cutting rib knit for cuffs or
neckline, stretch the fabric when cutting.
3. Three-Step Zig-Zag Stitch: A variation of the traditional
zig-zag stitch which works better with tightly knitted
fabrics to prevent skipped stitches and bunching under
the needle.
4. Twin-Needle Stitching - A twin needle will sew two
parallel lines of stitches on the top of a piece of fabric,
and a single zig-zag stitch underneath, making the
seam decorative and stretchy.
4. Walking Foot - A walking foot is optional but it will
help greatly in diminishing puckering in the seams. It
helps to grip the top of fabric so that the top and
bottom pass through under the needle evenly.
© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 15
By Laura Johnson. For personal use only. All rights reserved. Copyright © September 2012. No part of this pattern may be reproduced or copied without permission in writing from the author. To see more patterns by Laura Johnson go to www.ellieinspired.com.
For questions on sewing patterns by Ellie Inspired, visit the
discussion forums on our website: www.ellieinspired.com
Fair use of this pattern are subject to the following conditions:
“Ciao Bella” is a special thank-you gift for my amazing customers and is available for
FREE! It is only available on my website: www.ellieinspired.com. Please do NOT re-
post this pattern in its entirety. A link may be provided back to my site.
If you sell garments made using this pattern, in consideration of the many hours spent
on the design, please always give credit to Ellie Inspired as the designer (i.e. “Ciao
Bella” pattern by Ellie Inspired, www.ellieinspired.com). No mass production is
permitted using this pattern.
Ciao Bella by Laura Johnson
© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 16