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Evening Standard PHOTOGRAPHER: DAVID ABRAHAMS. WATCH: AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK SELFWINDING WATCH IN ROSE GOLD, £36,800
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Evening Standard

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www.tagheuer.com

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For bone collectorsHeralding a daring new retail partnership with Scottish watch designer Fiona Kruger, Harrods has cut the ribbon on a bold exhibition in its Fine Watch Room, running to 27 April. Showcasing limited-edition timepieces from the designer’s iconic Skull Collection (from £12,600), Harrods will be presenting Kruger’s newest series as a retail exclusive, emphasising her highly artistic approach to high-end “Swiss Made” craftsmanship, in collaboration with carefully selected artisans. Through her new “Petit Skull” designs, Kruger refers back to her Fine Art roots, decorating her dials using the classic guilloché technique the way a sculptor would use a chisel, while framing enticing glimpses of the mechanics ticking beneath.

Hublot’s got the blues. AgainThere must be real chemistry between Hublot and London’s the Watch Gallery because this is the third time they’ve collaborated on a special edition.

This time around, the avant-garde watchmaker has given its more elegant models, Classic Fusion (£7,500) and Classic Fusion Chronograph

45mm (£9,500) the full Watch Gallery colour treatment, both gaining blue dials, as well as rubber or rubber-lined alligator straps in the luxury watch

retailer’s signature shade, perfectly complementing the satin-finish titanium case. The good news is they are great-looking watches for those wanting something rather more elegant than Hublot’s signature, chunky boldness; the bad news is they are limited to just 35 pieces each.

The watches go on sale today in Watch Gallery boutiques at Westfield, on Fulham Road, Selfridges’ Wonder Room and online

thewatchgallery.com■

THE WHOLE WORLD IS WATCHING Edited by Anish Patel Picture Editor Silvie Koanda

evening standard Thursday 21 april 2016 �

Audemars Piguet strikes gold in London townAn otherwise drab February weekday evening was rendered positively radiant thanks to Audemars Piguet’s glitzy Yellow Gold party, at Phillips auctioneers’ spectacular new Berkeley Square address.

Lion Babe’s DJ set rocked the joint as guests raised Ruinart-champagne and Belvedere-cocktail toasts to the newly launched Royal Oak Yellow Gold collection — an unabashed revival of the Eighties favourite luxury metal, in combination with a Seventies icon of watchmaking, its groundbreaking octagonal design still as fresh today as it was in 1972. VIP guests included Arizona Muse, Roxie Nafousi, Jesse Metcalfe and Labyrinth, while specially commissioned urban artists, Ed Hicks and Steve Jurado created a unique “live art installation” of paint and projected illustrations in the Phillips Lower Ground Floor gallery.

From the Fab Four to Formula One, times are changing. Alex Doak clocks the new season’s biggest stories

F1 o’clockThe 2016 Formula One season is well under way, and while there haven’t been nearly as many shake-ups on the grid as 2014, when the new V6 hybrid turbo technology came into effect, the watch-brand associations have never shifted so dramatically. After several decades of loyal sponsorship, TAG Heuer has left the underperforming McLaren team for recent four-times world champions Red Bull Racing. Interestingly, it has signed as official Performance Partner, with

the TAG badge replacing that of Renault on the engines themselves.

Meanwhile, Richard Mille, whose stripped-back, high-tech watches are veritable F1 cars for the wrist, has moved from Lotus to McLaren,

replacing TAG on the wrists of former champions Jenson Button, right, and Fernando Alonso. And with Lotus now bought by and rebranded as Renault Sport, fellow Frenchman

Bell & Ross makes its way from the cockpits of the

Aéronavale to those of Kevin Magnussen and Britain’s Jolyon Palmer. Simple!

London Craft Week welcomes the grande dame of GenevaFor a second year running, designer-makers are being placed centre stage across central London this May, with Craft Week kicking off at the V&A on Tuesday May 3 with Switzerland’s oldest watchmaker, Vacheron Constantin, in attendance from Wednesday May 4 to Saturday May 7.

Vacheron Constantin, as founding partner, might not be the first watch brand one thinks of in terms of our capital, but as the oldest horological brand in continuous production (260 years and counting) it knows plenty about handcraftsmanship.

Gamely playing along with London Craft Week’s exploratory programme of tucked-away ateliers around our city, Vacheron Constantin is welcoming curious souls down to the basement of its Bond Street boutique, where you can observe the in-house watchmaker Selynn Blanchet beavering away on all manner of vintage and current complications alongside an engraver from the Geneva factory. You can even have a go, if you dare.

Beatles (Raymond Weil) for saleRaymond Weil, Geneva’s youthful, family-run watchmaker, has forged a two-thumbs-up alliance with none other than Sir Paul McCartney, marking the Beatles’ 40th anniversary with a limited-edition horological tribute to the Fab Four — arguably the most high-profile partnership in Raymond Weil’s long history of musically inspired timepieces. All 13 Beatles’ album titles are written all around the dial

(the designers must have wished they’d stopped at Abbey Road), with “Help” at 4 o’clock replaced by the cover artwork’s iconic semaphore silhouette of the group.

The silver galvanic dial matches the polished steel bracelet (no leather-strap option on account of Macca’s strict vegetarianism) and features the official Beatles logo and a date window at 3 o’clock. Limited to 3,000 pieces, this is a blessedly stylish outcome from a rather arbitrary link-up.

Opening doors with Gwyneth It’s a match made in heaven for Switzerland’s pre-eminent, “affordable luxury” watchmakers, as Gwyneth Paltrow graces posters and charity events in the name of Frédérique Constant. The education projects of the brand’s new global Charity Ambassadress’s pet organisation, “DonorsChoose”, will benefit, with sales of a cocktail collection, Delight Automatic seeing $50 per watch going to support innovative, impactful and lasting charities around the world. It was big at Baselworld. Photography, as shot by Vogue Italia darling, Tom Munro.

VIP guests Arizona Muse, Jesse Metcalfe, Roxie Nafousi and Neelam Gil

Switzerland’s Vacheron Constantin will be attending London’s Craft Week

Fiona Kruger’s daring Skull Collection will feature in Harrods’ Fine Watch Room

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ONE MAN AND HIS WATCHYou can tell a lot about a person from his timepiece. Anish Patel makes the case for keeping it classic

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Ronde Croisiere de Cartier Watch in Steel and Leather£3,300, (cartier.co.uk)

Rose gold chronographPOA, Patek Philippe,

(patek.com)

Cellini Dual Time in 18ct gold£12,900, Rolex,(rolex.com)

1858 Tachymeter Chronograph Limited Edition 100£23,400, Montblanc,

(montblanc.com)

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Tinie TimeHe’s the rags to riches rapper who can’t stop shopping. Andrew Barker talks music, mentoring and making money with the Peckham boy who went platinum

Talking to Tinie Tempah, it’s easy to forget you’re in the presence of the Uk’s biggest rapper. Prince William crops up in conversation as often as

Pharrell Williams. His favourite subjects are “empowerment”, “youth culture” and “collaboration”, and he is refresh-ingly bold about what it all means for Tinie 2.0 — the entrepreneur, the dis-rupter, the philanthropist.

“in 15 years i want to be the beacon of a very extensive and diverse creative hub,” he tells me in the lobby of lock Studios off kingsland Road. “i want to write the next Family guy. i want to design my own clothing line. i want to have the next Tinie Tempah signed to our label. it’s a great time for people like myself who have a big scope, big vision, who want to be entrepreneurial and to empower young talent. Even if i can empower three people i’ll be happy.”

He already looks like a mogul: there’s a string of rose-gold, rosary beads around his neck each set with a white diamond, matching his solid rose gold watch, an audemars Piguet Royal Oak. He is wearing a brown woollen baseball cap and tinted sunglasses indoors.

Over a beige acne jumper is an Elevate cream denim jacket adorned with street-art style doodles and on his feet are peach-coloured custom made trainers. it’s a strong look for a Monday morning, but it works.

Six years on since Pass Out topped the charts, “T” as his team calls him, has never been bigger. last year he had two more number ones. not letting go and Turn the Music louder were the kind of instantly recognisable songs that make want to shout “choon” before remem-bering no one says that any more.

That takes the total to seven. They’re songs that stick around. They stay cur-rent. You can still play Pass Out and people are, like, “ayyyyy”. after winning two Brit awards, two MOBOs, supporting Jay-Z and Rihanna on tour, you might think it would be a good time to take a break. Maybe start a family. But the art-ist born Patrick Okogwu is only just get-ting started.

“The way people consume music is different now. as an artist, it’s my job to engage you. To keep things surprising.” indeed, whichever kind of brand you are in this day and age, be it a clothing or tech company, a model or a make-up artist, you need to understand millenni-

als (19- to 34-year-olds who grew up with the internet), whose insatiable appetite to like, follow and share is the lifeblood of social media. Tempah gets this gen-eration more than most: you sit still for too long, you get left behind.

“i like to keep my fans abreast of the work in progress right until the last point so they feel like they have been with you for the journey. My favourite artists will say, ‘in the studio, still mixing, still tweaking…’ Or kanye will say, ‘i’m going to re-release it with another track’. For me that’s more fun, more exciting for the fans.”

He’s just built a new studio in green-wich where he is working on his third album, due out later this year. it also serves as an incubator for the handful of artists and producers signed to his Dis-turbing london label and publishing company. it’s a smart move: the next generation can feed off his experience and wherewithal, and, in turn, they can help him keep his sound as relevant as the day he started. His top signing is Wizkid, the biggest selling artist in nigeria, who has just recorded a song with Drake.

“i meet these young producers and they’re more evolved than we are. They’re more advanced than we are. i say, Who’s singing? ‘Me’. Who mixed it? ‘Me’. Who done the video? ‘Me’. Who did the art? ‘Me’. Who’s doing the social? ‘Me’. You don’t just have to be known for one thing… anyone can be anything. More than ever there are opportunities. Six million people might watch X Factor, but you go on YouTube and one video from this little kid has got 40 million views.”

Tempah couldn’t resist the opportunity to meet one such “kid” in amsterdam recently, EDM’s 19-year-old Dutch wunderkind Martin garrix, whose YouTube views for his latest video For-bidden Voices number a staggering 65 million and counting. “This kid is living the life. He’s got three apartments; one for living; then you go up the stairs, there’s another for partying; and there’s one for guests and his studio. i’m like yes! You have to live your life. You have to enjoy it.”

Youth isn’t just an obsession, it’s a major preoccupation. On a few occa-sions he describes how determined he is to make the most of his own while he can. and, at 27, he is only three years shy of that milestone age when it’s all offi-

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evening standard Thursday 21 april 2016 �

1. Royal Oak, full rose goldi like yellow gold but i prefer rose gold. it’s kingly. it looks good on my skin. i took this girl to portugal a few years ago, i didn’t really know her, and we were chilling in this swanky place and this business guy walked by with an ap and a rose gold bezel. i said: “One day i’m going to get one of those and look like a boss.” she was like: “What is that?”

2. Royal Oak, leather strapWhen i was younger my older friends had rolexes, but their aspiration was to have an ap. This was the first one i bought when i went to Nigeria, which is quite ostentatious anyway. i bought it at

the airport with my card. i just wanted to know what that feeling would be like.

3. Rolex rose goldi usually buy a watch when something monumental happens. like a number one or selling out the O2, milestone moments. This is the first new watch i bought from Trotters in east london. Before that i had a secondhand submariner and i’m wearing it on the cover of Written in the stars.

4. AP white Royal Oak, rubber strapi did a performance for ap a year ago. They launched a 20mm stainless steel

with a rubber strap. i will wear it in ibiza with nice shorts, open shirt. We are hosting six dates at ushuaia this summer. i’m trying not to drink now. But when i’m there i like a strawberry mojito or dom pérignon.

5. Rolex, Stainless steel Daytona chronographit’s a very sentimental piece. i did my first arena tour, sold out and it was my birthday. in the middle of the show at the MEN arena in Manchester, my manager stopped the show and got the crowd to sing happy birthday and he gave me the box all wrapped up. i knew what it was immediately.

cially over. Thirty. The age he says he wants to have children. “Sometimes I’ll be talking to my girlfriend and I’ll say I’m going to get this car and she’ll say, ‘you can get it when you’re older’. But then I’ll be a dad. It won’t be the same. I want to have that feeling of being a hot boy, driving a fast car. You have to run so that when you slow down you’re so far ahead, it’s cool that you walk.”

He won’t reveal who the sig-nificant other is. However, he admits he bought her a Cartier Love bangle (he wears a matching one) and

he was dismayed when he saw it on the bedside table one night, because, as a token of love, it shouldn’t be removed. “I’m like ‘what the hell?’ She says she felt restricted.”

Tempah’s nigerian parents moved to Peckham, and then Plumstead, where he grew up with his three siblings. He has said in the past he was a well behaved and a good student at the Catholic schools he attended. The okogwus didn’t have much in the way of money or material posses-sions and he’s proud he has been able to provide for them since he signed a record deal with eMI in 2009.

“I bought my mum a Mercedes, I bought my dad a BMw. My mum is going to be 50 this year, I want to buy her a Rolex. I took the family skiing to Val-d’Isère at Christmas. They loved it.”

Disturbing London is a family affair. His cousin Dumi is his manager and was the recent subject of a GQ profile. His younger sister Kelly, having studied sociology at Brunel University, is his day-to-day man-ager. Another cousin, Moses, is art direc-tor. one of their latest initiatives is to provide internships across the business for those from less privileged back-grounds.

Tinie’s circles these days are a far cry

from the estates of south London. His friends and mentors include philanthro-pist Sir Roger De Haan; editor of GQ Dylan Jones; nigerian businessman Fred-die Achom who owns London nightclubs Jalouse and The Scotch; and Steve Ang-ello, the eDM godfather with whom he recorded Miami 2 Ibiza when Angello was still a member of Swedish House Mafia. “Anytime we get on his private jet he’s like, ‘hey, you want to see my watch collection?’ You try it on. everyone is happy looking, comparing. Steve’s got 40 Audemars Piguets.”

no wonder he has developed a taste for finery. His own watch collection consists of five Rolexes, four Audemars Piguets, and a Panerai. “I need to go to Patek [Philippe] levels next. I’m really good friends with [england footballer] Daniel Sturridge. He just got the white gold one with the blue face. Maybe for my 30th, god willing.”

on the morning we meet he has posted a picture to his 700,000 Instagram fol-lowers of his custom-built sneaker ward-robe in his flat in Shoreditch with the caption: “I’ve got so many clothes I keep some in my Aunts [sic] house.” He rejects the notion that flagrant exhibi-tions of his wealth are insensitive at a time when London is in the midst of a housing crisis, or that they give the impression that he is out of touch.

“I am owning my lifestyle,” he retorts. “I’ve worked hard for everything. I don’t come from a privileged background. My parents don’t have money. This is me

from the age of 13 until 27, working day and night. If me showing my lifestyle is going to make some people think I am vain, as opposed to inspiring people, that’s just where you’re head is at. You’re not rooting for me anyway. If you knew my story, you’d think: I am happy for you. If some 15-year-old black kid or someone from a challenged background is going to say, ‘wow, I remember when he lived on a council estate’, that’s who it’s for. I don’t care what anyone else thinks to be fair. I want to show my kids that when I was 25,26,27, I had so many trainers, I had this, I had that.”

In terms of his own style, Tinie is all about high-end streetwear. “Before you were either impeccably dressed, or you looked like a ruffian. now with youth culture, international blog culture, Insta-gram culture, people are a lot more accepting of streetwear. I feel I can really go for it and express myself.”

For inspiration he follows the @walf, @pause_online feeds, the Hype Beast and Highsnobiety blogs. For the latest watches he likes @watchanish and he shops on Mr Porter. “You have to turn up,” he concludes. Sorry?

“The best artists have a definitive mes-sage, a definitive style. Michael Jackson wore white socks and people probably thought it was crazy. He was turning up. I see myself as the same as everyone else, but when you project your image to the world as an artist, that’s when you have to stand out as an individual. I’m a young rapper from england. The most successful one. whoever you are and whatever’s your message, turn up in that respect. Be you.”

A fixture on the annual best-dressed lists, his red-carpet track record is pretty much peerless, in London at least. But is there anything he wouldn’t ever wear again? “A black diamond earring. Too old for it.” That’s a turn-up for the books.

‘I’m owning my lifestyle. I’ve worked hard for everything. I don’t come from a privileged background’

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SPACE TIME CONTINUUMIt took more than a rocket scientist to put a man on the Moon —there was a groundbreaking watch too, reports James Gurney

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The first astronauts NASA sent into orbit appear to have chosen their own watches, but once the Gemini and Apollo programmes got

under way in the early 1960s, nothing was left to chance. Just as with every other component of the millions used in putting man on the Moon, NASA set out what was needed and asked manufacturers to submit examples for testing.

As NASA wanted the watches to be used on spacewalks (eVAs) and on the surface of the Moon, it set some pretty tough standards, including resistance to temperature changes (-20 to +70 C), extreme decompression, impacts of more than 40 times earth’s gravity, vibration and strong magnetic fields.

Three months of brutal testing later and there was only one winner: Omega’s Speedmaster chronograph.

Once it became official NASA kit, the Speedmaster was at the heart of the adventure. Armstrong left his on-board the Lunar Lander (the clock inside had broken), so it was Buzz Aldrin’s model

that earned the Speedmaster the title Moonwatch. More dramatically, the watches enabled Apollo 13’s crew to time a critical engine burn that helped them return safely home after their craft’s near-fatal explosion on the way to the moon.

essentially, the same Speedmaster watches were worn by NASA astronauts on the post-Apollo Skylab missions and Shuttle missions in later years — Omega is still the only company to have watches certified for eVA. But it was only in the 1990s that NASA asked Omega to take a fresh look at what a space watch should be, the result being the X-33, a multi-function quartz watch with chronographs and an 80db alarm (the original Speedmaster was a hand-wound mechanical), which was first launched in 1998. Designed with the help of Thomas Stafford, one of the Apollo astronauts, together with mili-tary pilots and serving astronauts, the X-33 was immediately popular with professional users and a number of International Space Station crew wear them to this today, most notably the “singing astronaut”, Chris hadfield.

The latest version is the X-33 Sky-walker, which went through an even more rigorous testing at the european Space Agency’s labs in holland than NASA subjected the original watches to — this round included temperatures down –45 C, centrifuges and even more vibrations.

Ground-based space fans still prefer the original Speedmaster, however, and they’re not alone — a number of Cosmonauts wear Omega Speedmaster Professionals (as the watch became know after NASA’s certification).

Breitling has its own space history: Scott Carpenter wore a Breitling Navi-timer on the Aurora 7 Mission in May 1962, which was the first non-Russian wristwatch in space — Yuri Gagarin, the first man in orbit wore a Poljot. The watch had a 24-hour display, useful since an astronaut’s day sees the sun rising and setting every couple of hours.

But apart from working with Franco-Russian missions between 1996 and 2001, Breitling has kept its aerospace activities closer to the ground. But last year, Breitling launched the exospace B55 Connected New York last week. Connected rather than smart, it works with iOS and Android, but has its own technology inside, the B55 is a pilot’s companion that will track all the key times in any from “block-off” to the end of the flight. On hand at the launch was Breitling’s brand ambassador Mark Kelly, who has flown everything A6-Intruders to the Space Shuttles, Discov-ery and endeavour. he loved the way that the B55 has multiple chronographs and countdown functions that are quick to access, a real boon in navigation whether your keeping up a private pilot’s licence or riding a Soyuz craft up to the ISS, where Kelly’s twin brother is (an X-33 wearing) station commander.

TAG heuer’s space history started with John Glenn taking a stopwatch with him on Friendship 7, the Mercury project space craft in which he became the first US astronaut to successfully go into earth orbit. Some 50 years later, TAG heuer might be on its way back to space thanks to its partnership with elon Musk, the PayPal entrepreneur and pioneer behind Tesla cars and SpaceX.

As part of the partnership, TAG heuer created the Carrera Calibre 1887 Space X Chronograph. An updated version of the original Carrera design, it has 43mm stainless steel case and uses dial details taken from the John Glenn stop-watch. One of the watches went into orbit on board Dragon 9, the first com-mercial flight to be part of the ISS pro-gramme and was returned in full working order three weeks later, hav-ing stood up to the ultimate quality control test of rocketing into space at incredible speeds.

elon Musk is nothing if not ambitious and while the Dragon craft is currently cargo only, it was designed from the beginning to carry humans. SpaceX expects that Dragon’s first manned test flight will take place in two to three years. expect TAG heuer to be on board when it does.

Jack Swigert (left) wears his Apollo 13 Speedmaster on a velcro strap; Tim Peake (right) wears an Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X33

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evening standard Thursday 21 april 2016 �

Breitling Exospace B55, Connected (titanium case on rubber strap)£6,540(breitling.com, 020 7637 5167)

Speedmaster Skywalker X33POA, Omega(omega.com)

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Calibre 1887 Space X Chronograph£3,650, Tag Heuer(tagheuer.com)

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THE BIG BLUEWhether you’re a pro or a paddler, deep sea watches have never been so desirable. Alex Doak dives in

10 Thursday 21 april 2016eveningstandard

We all know that a finely engineered Swiss watch isn’t about telling the time — it’s an embodiment

of craftsmanship and status. But there’s one type that thrives on

over-engineered construction and statement looks: the perennially popular diving watch. There are only a few proper divers out there who will use their watch for its express purpose — and even then it’ll be an all-singing-all-dancing digital gizmo for a fraction of the price. But two of the top-selling models — invariably riding the Tube rather than the waves, complete with watertight gaskets, rotating timing bezel and luminous dials — are the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster (perhaps something to do with the fact Sean Connery, Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig have all worn them as Commander Bond).

Just as you buy a 200mph supercar to pop to the shops or impress girls, it’s the knowledge you “could” dive down to 200m, even if you only end up splashing about with the kids in the shallow end. It also helps that diving watches look dead cool, of course.

IWC Aquatimer AutomaticFor IWC, 2014 was the year of the Aquatimer — a diving-watch range going strong since 1967. Every Aquatimer now boasts the new external/internal rotating bezel, which combines the readability of an inner bezel with an easy-to-twiddle outer bezel via a sliding clutch interface. As with all diving watches, the internal bezel moves anticlockwise, ensuring that, even if you were to accidentally knock the bezel during a dive, your resurfacing time will come sooner, not be dangerously overshot. £4,250

Tudor Heritage Black Bay BronzeBronze diving watches are having a moment and it makes perfect sense; bronze speaks vividly of ancient mariners wielding chunky winches, battling the high seas. Watchmakers like using it as it oxidises, so every watch takes on a unique patina. Notable about this sailor is that it’s the first retro-reissue Black Bay model to house Tudor’s new in-house automatic movement. Rolex’s little bro is all grown up, it seems. £2,730

D E L U X EWA T C H E S

Maurice Mullen, Head of Fashion and Luxury [email protected] or 020 361 52329

Suzan Antonowicz, Head of International and [email protected] or 020 361 52248

To talk to us, please contact

NEXT ISSUE 3RD NOVEMBER

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1. White chronometer watchPOA, Ferdinand Berthold(williamandson.com)

2. Altiplano 38mm bracelet watch with 18k white gold face£20,800, Piaget, (Harrods Piaget Boutique :87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1. 0800 279 51 10)

3. Altiplano 40mm bracelet watch with 18k white gold set with diamonds £24,600, (Harrods Piaget Boutique :87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1, 0800 279 51 10)

4. Ultra-thin skeleton watch in titanium, 45mm, Hublot £12,600 (Hublot.com)

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A lighter touchThere’s more to wrist action than heavy-duty hardware as spring’s featherlight timepieces are sure to fly with the style set

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BREITLING.COM

WELCOME TO OUR WORLD

Breitling reinvents the connected watch firmly geared towards per-

formance. Every inch an instrument of the future, the Exospace B55

multifunction electronic chronograph pushes the boundaries of comfort,

ergonomics and efficiency. The titanium case of this compendium of

innovations houses an exclusive SuperQuartzTM caliber chronometer-

certified by the COSC and featuring a range of original functions tailor-

made for pilots and men of action. Welcome to the world of precision,

feats and high-tech sophistication. Welcome to the vanguard of

instruments for professionals.


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