Violin Online Fingering Chart BLUE fingering numbers = play these notes on the G string GOLD fingering numbers = play these notes on the D string GREEN fingering numbers = play these notes on the A string PURPLE fingering numbers = play these notes on the E string 0 = open string; 1 = 1st finger; 2 = 2nd finger; 3 = 3rd finger; 4 = 4th finger Click on each note to hear its pitch. FIRST POSITION E String A String D String G string Click here for help with violin fingering placement & tape
Transcript
Violin Online Fingering Chart
BLUE fingering numbers = play these notes on the G stringGOLD fingering numbers = play these notes on the D stringGREEN fingering numbers = play these notes on the A stringPURPLE fingering numbers = play these notes on the E string
BLUE fingering numbers = play these notes on the G stringGOLD fingering numbers = play these notes on the D stringGREEN fingering numbers = play these notes on the A stringPURPLE fingering numbers = play these notes on the E string
To assist beginning violinists, some violin teachers use thin strips of colored tape (e.g. 1/8" graphic chart tape or pinstripe auto detailing tape) to mark where students should place their fingers on the violin fingerboard. Other varieties of tapes used include commercial musical instrument tape, circle sticker dots, or masking, painting, vinyl or electrical tape (cut to the desired thickness). Once beginners know where to place their fingers, the tape is removed. If a sticky residue is left, an instrument cleaner may be used to clean the fingerboard. If the residue is difficult to remove, isopropyl alcohol can be used to clean the fingerboard (do not let the alcohol touch the instrument varnish or it can cause significant damage).
The tape is often used to mark a regular 1st finger (such as the note B on the A string), high 2nd finger (e.g. C# on the A string), third finger (e.g. the note D on the A string), and 4th finger (e.g. the note E on the A string -- sounds the same as open E).
Rather than use precise measurements to place fingering tape, it's best to place the tape by ear (after placing each piece of tape, press your finger down on the tape and listen carefully to determine whether or not the note sounds in tune). This is due to the fact that variations in the width and shape of each person's finger may affect where each tape should be placed. It's also important to remember that although fingering tape can provide beginners with an approximate location of where they should place their fingers, playing in tune requires the violinist to listen carefully to make sure they are playing the correct pitch. Fingering tape should be used as a temporary aid, not as a long term solution.
Visit our Music Store - Rosin & Accessories for a sampling of fingerboard tape
VIOLIN FINGERBOARD CHART:
A chart of the violin fingerboard is provided in the image at the top right of this page. Fingering for notes played in the 1st position can be found to the right of the fingerboard. Most violin music for beginners uses only the 1st position.
Fingering for notes played in the 3rd position can be found to the left of the fingerboard. These notes require the violinist to "shift" the position of their hand to a higher position on the keyboard in order to play these notes. For an explanation of shifting, visit the Shifting & Positions page.
The fingerboard chart shows many instances of two musical letters being placed on the same space. This indicates those two notes are enharmonic, meaning, even though they are named or "spelled" differently, they sound the same pitch. For example, in the first position on the A string, D# and Eb have the same sound (and are enharmonic notes). This note could be fingered using either a high 3rd finger, or a low 4th finger. The pitch would be the same.
All variations of notes and fingerings in higher positions were not labeled and shown (the entire length of the fingerboard can be used to finger and play notes).
When violin music is written in "1st position" or "3rd position," this refers to where the hand is located when fingers are placed on the violin fingerboard. Visit the Finger Placement page for interactive finger placement assistance.
Shifting refers to the hand smoothly moving up or down the fingerboard in order to play notes with the hand in a different position on the fingerboard.
The concept of positions and shifting is somewhat similar to an elevator traveling to different floors in a building. Most music for violin beginners is written with the hand in 1st position, where the hand remains closer to the scroll of the violin. Using the elevator analogy, music for beginning violinists generally requires the hand to remain on the 1st floor in 1st position to finger all of the musical notes.
For some of the higher notes in intermediate and advanced violin music, it's necessary to move the hand up to a higher position on the fingerboard to play them. This requires the hand to shift to a higher hand position such as the 3rd position. Using the elevator analogy again, it’s similar to the hand moving up in an elevator to the 3rd floor.
Although 1st and 3rd positions are the two most commonly used positions in beginning and intermediate violin music, there are seven regular positions utilized in violin playing, and for very advanced violin music, 8th and higher positions (note: advanced violinists are usually less concerned with positions, and more focused on selecting fingering that works well with particular passages of music). To view a chart of 1st - 7th positions, visit our Advanced Positions Fingering Chart.
Wondering how to take care of your violin? The following tips provide guidelines for the proper care and maintenance of your violin.
Tighten your violin bow before playing by gently turning the tension screw. Avoid making the bow hairs too taut---the separation between the bow stick and hair should be about the width of a pencil.
Whenever you handle your violin bow, try not to touch the bow hairs with your fingers or hand. The natural oils on your skin will impact the ability of the bow to grip the string.
Put a small amount of rosin on your bow before playing. Hold the rosin in your left hand, place the bow hairs flat on the rosin and slowly move the bow back and forth on the rosin. Rosin provides the bow hair with friction in order to produce a sound when the bow is pulled across the violin strings.
If you do not have enough rosin on your bow, your bow will slide across the strings and produce very little or no sound. Too much rosin can produce a raspy, scratching sound, and can result in rosin caking the strings. Visit our rosin & sound page for directions on how to apply rosin
After playing the violin, gently clean it with a soft, clean, lint-free cloth to remove rosin build-up on the strings and any dust, oil or sweat on your instrument, including the chinrest.
Polish is rarely needed, and when necessary, only a commercial violin polish should be used. Cleaning the violin with furniture polish or water could damage the varnish and acoustics of the violin (water could also cause the violin seams to open).
When you are not using your violin and bow, always place them in your case. They can easily fall and become damaged if you leave them on a chair or another surface, even temporarily.
If you use a shoulder rest or shoulder pad, always remove it from your violin before putting your violin back in its case.
Loosen the hair on your bow before putting it back in the case. Make sure you have securely closed your instrument case with any zippers and latches before picking
up your instrument case. Do not store your violin in extreme hot or cold locations, and never leave your instrument in direct
sunlight or in the trunk of your car on a warm day (the heat could melt the varnish). If you live in a dry climate, you may want to consider using a humidifier made for violins (excessive
dryness can cause cracking or the seams of your violin to open). If your violin ever has cracks or the seams begin to open, take it to a music store, violin maker or luthier
to be professionally repaired. Never use commercial glue to repair cracks on your violin. Instrument makers use a special glue for violin seams and repairs.
If your violin bridge ever needs to be adjusted, it is important to note that the violin bridge is held in place by pressure and proper placement, not glue (tension from the violin strings holds it in place). Visit our violin bridge adjustment section for more information.
Sticking or Loose Violin Pegs
Humidity or temperature changes can sometimes cause wood pegs to stick or to have difficulty turning. If you experience this, you may want to try an inexpensive product called peg compound(also called “peg dope”). Peg compound will not only lubricate the peg, but it will also provide enough friction so the
peg will not slip. When using peg compound or any other product to help with sticking or loose pegs, use it sparingly because a residue can build up over time (some violinists avoid these products).
To apply peg compound, remove the string from the peg, and slide the peg out of the pegbox. Apply a small amount of peg compound to the part of the peg that contacts the pegbox and reinsert the peg. Turn the peg a few times to make sure it turns smoothly. Wipe off any excess peg compound before restringing the peg.
If your pegs are too loose and keep slipping, try pushing the peg in securely while turning the peg firmly. If this doesn’t work, some violinists use either peg compound or another product called peg drops to stop pegs from slipping (peg drops, also known as peg grip are used solely for slipping pegs).
To apply peg drops, remove the string from the peg, slide the peg out of the pegbox, and apply one or two drops to the part of the peg that contacts the pegbox. Reinsert the peg and try turning it to make sure the peg sticks before restringing the peg.
If you need a temporary quick fix for slipping or tight pegs, some violin teachers use these tips: for sticking pegs, pull the peg partially out, and rub pencil graphite on the sticking part of the peg. For loose pegs, pull the peg partially out, and rub birthday candle wax on the peg to help it stick (some teachers recommend chalk or rosin to help pegs stick, but these substances can be abrasive).
Using too much force with stuck or swollen pegs can cause the pegs or peg box to crack. If you’re still having problems with your pegs, you may need to take your violin to a violin maker or instrument repair person to reshape or replace the pegs.
Bow Bugs
Has it been a while since you’ve played your violin? If you open your violin case and notice that many of your violin bow hairs are falling off and look like they have been cut, you might have bow bugs.
Bow bugs, also known as bow mites or museum beetles, come from the dermestidae family of beetles. They thrive in dark, dry places such as closed violin cases, and feed on substances such as bow hair.
If you think you have bow bugs, remove your violin and bow from the violin case, thoroughly vacuum the case (especially the cracks and crevices), and leave the case open in indirect sunlight for a few days (leave your violin and bow out of the case during this process). Some individuals have found it helpful to put a small bag of moth balls or a cotton ball with rosemary oil or camphor oil in their violin case compartment to help eradicate the bow bugs.
If your bow hairs are heavily damaged, you should have your bow rehaired, and if your case seems heavily infested, you may need to buy a new violin case.
The easiest way to avoid bow bugs, is to play your violin often. If you know you won’t be playing your violin for an extended period of time, another way to avoid bow bugs is to periodically open your violin case and expose your violin bow and case to indirect sunlight for brief periods of time (never leave your violin in direct sunlight or extreme heat or the varnish could melt).
SharpA sharp set before a note raises the pitch of the note a half-step, and remains in effect for the rest of the measure.
FlatA flat set before a note lowers the pitch of the note a half-step, and remains in effect for the rest of the measure.
NaturalA natural set before a note restores the natural pitch of a note, and is often used after a flat or sharp.
EnharmonicNotes
Enharmonic notes are two notes that sound the same, but are spelled differently (e.g. A# and Bb).
Key Signatures
Sharps or flats placed at the beginning of each staff are called key signatures. This key signature with an F# indicates that all F notes in this piece should be played as F#.
This key signature with a B and E flat indicates that all B's and E's should be played as B flat and E flat.
Keys are used to organize a piece of music. For example, music written in the key of C would center around the tone of C, and would use notes from the C scale (no sharps or flats).
There are 15 Major & Minor Key Signatures. As illustrated below, each major key signature has a corresponding minor key signature (e.g. both C Major and a minor do not have any sharps or flats).
C Major G Major D Major A Major E Major B Major F# Major
a minor e minor b minor f# minor c# minor g# minor d# minor
F Major Bb Major Eb Major Ab Major Db Major Gb Major
d minor g minor c minor f minor Bb minor Eb minor
Circle of Fifths
A circle of fifths is an arrangement of keys by ascending fifths. It displays how many sharps or flats are in each key. Major keys are noted in capital letters and are found on the outer part of the circle (C,G etc.), and minor keys are in lower case letters on the inner part of the circle (a, e etc.).
