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Abby Tegnelia Entertainment+Travel Editor, NiC Magazine | NowItCounts.com 

A Fantastic Voyage To Northern California's Wine Country Posted: 01/29/2015 6:25 pm EST Updated: 2 hours ago 

Livermore Vineyard in Tri-Valley, CA

When I lived in New York City after college, "wine country" seemed like an exotic,

intimidating locale that I would never have the opportunity to explore. My impression

couldn't have been more off! Many years later, I live so close to Napa and Sonoma that I go

about twice a month -- and have explored wineries and tasting rooms all over California. What

I love about it is that it offers something for everyone. Whether you're a newbie wine

connoisseur or an aficionado looking for new places to explore, I bet this wine country

extravaganza has something for you.

Let's start with Napa; since as the most famous name of California wine country, it's a great

place to begin our adventure. There's much rivalry between those who love Napa and those

who swing Sonoma. I'm here to tell you that you can like both. And with all the talk of getting

off the beaten path (we'll get there), I thought it'd be fun to start with the classics. First-time

visitors to the area should start with a leisurely drive up Highway 29. Most of the wineries

along that stretch don't require reservations, and all the big names are there: Robert Mondavi,

Domaine Chandon, Cakebread and Beringer. Just drive from Napa all the way to its

northernmost town of Calistoga (you'll know you're there when you spot the castle, Castello di

Amarosa -- you can't miss it), jumping out for tastings and tours as you see fit.

Castello Di Amorosa, Calistoga, CA

After you've gotten the lay of the

land, you're ready for some

additional don't-miss classics. Start

with Napa's PlumpJack, known for

its complex cabernet sauvignon. The

popular spot dates back to the 1800s

and sits squarely in the famous

Oakville Appelation (home to Opus One, Screaming Eagle and Joseph Phelps). Other famous

names include Caymus, in Rutherford, Charles Krug in St. Helena and Chateau Montelena,

which famously beat French wines in the competition made famous in the movie Bottle Shock.

It's way north in Calistoga, so save some time for the drive. (Reservations are recommended

for all of these properties.) Finally, driving the Silverado Trail is a must -- head for Stag's Leap

Wine Cellars and go from there.

One important movement in wine

country is the rise in eco-friendly

practices and sustainability. Benziger

Family Winery (three generations of

Benziger run the biz), in Sonoma, was a

pioneer and still leads in organic and

biodynamic farming. Its tours focus on

the land, getting visitors out into the

vineyards to learn about the soil and

growing practices before hitting the

tasting room. Also in Sonoma: Hamel Family Wines, a new destination winery organically

farmed by two generations of the Hamel family. Activities include touring the caves, private

dining and taking in the spectacular views of Sonoma Valley. Other popular wineries

committed to sustainability include Napa's Cade Estate, which boasts stunning views of the

valley and Clif Family Farm, which uses organically grown grapes, recycled materials and a

lighter glass. It runs an awesome tasting room called Velo in St. Helena. Some of Napa's

luxury properties are green as well. Yountville's intimate Bardessono is considered by many as

the ultimate eco-friendly resort and is one of only 3 LEED-certified platinum hotels in the

country. Farther north, in rural Calistoga, Calistoga Ranch, whose general manager is

nicknamed "Mother Nature," is built into the trees and recycles all of its water.

Newton Vineyards, St. Helena, CA

People often ask me about drinking and

driving in wine country. Livermore, in

theTri-Valley east of San Francisco, is the only

wine region that is reachable by train from the

city, so it's a great day trip for those who don't

want to deal with a car--guests often have a limo waiting at the train station. Wente Vineyards

is the biggest and most famous--make time for lunch at its gorgeous restaurant (and don't skip

its famous lamb pastrami). Another favorite is McGrail Vineyards--it has a stunning patio on

which to savor your vino. I've also taken a few really cool small group tastings in a luxury van

or limo with Beau Wine Tours, which offers both boutique and name brand all-day options.

(On a recent boutique winery tour, I had an amazing day with a young honeymooning couple

and two sassy sisters from Texas.) Napa also has an active über presence now, and I've always

wanted to hop onboard the Wine Train, which I've heard is excellent for beginners--plus, there

are often specials associated with the downtown hotels. Staying in downtown Napa, which has

exploded in recent years, is actually strategic for many reasons. First, there are loads (two

dozen, give or take) of tasting room options. Getaway Adventures bike tours offers a lovely

excursion to the beautiful and inviting Luna Vineyards, one of my very favorites, just outside

of town. I love to bring its Italian wines home, when I can drag myself away from the gorgeous

Tuscan patio. The Embassy Suites offers roomy accommodations and are just a ten-minute

walk to the closest tasting rooms. Or stay at River Terrace Inn or the spectacular Westin

Verasa, where an enormous salt-water hot tub awaits to help you sweat out any

over-indulgence. In addition to the tasting rooms, it's also a quick walk to yummy restaurants

such as locals' favorites ABC Bakery and Norman Rose Tavern, family-friendly Azzurro

Pizzeria, Oenotri's sinful Italian and Turkish hot spot Tarla Grill. No designated driver

needed! And don't get me started on Oxbow Market. I go every single time I'm in Napa, even if

it's only a day trip. Hog Island oysters, C Casa's delicious Latin fare (I'm partial to its

breakfast), Ca Momi's sinfully delicious pizzas and cheese plates from Oxbow Cheese & Wine

Merchant, all under the same roof? Who can resist?

Speaking of food, it's no secret that some

of the best in the country is now served

in Napa and Sonoma. Yountville

especially has become the most famous

foodie hot spot. The French Laundry is

every bit as special as you've read--many

people swear that a dinner at Thomas

Keller's institution is the best meal of

their life. He also owns the more casual

Ad Hoc (so good), Bouchon and

Bouchon Bakery. Needless to say, Chef Keller is revered in that neck of the woods. You also

can't go wrong at Jeanty (I love sitting at the bustling bar) or Redd, which has a delicious

brunch. One of my favorite meals this year was at Michael Chiarello'sBottega. The antipasti

was out of this world, and included house-cured prosciutto Tuscan salumi and

melt-in-your-mouth cheeses.

I also still dream about the grilled acorn-fed pork shoulder loin, ricotta gnocchi "pillows" with

old hen salsa and a potato ravioli filled with spinach ricotta, farm yard egg yolk and truffle

sage brown butter. Trust me -- go now.

Speaking of good eats, a few wineries offer unbelievable food and wine pairings. One fun

option is the Royal Tasting at Castello di Amorosa, with the high-energy Mary Davidek. She

takes you on a tour of the eccentric castle before settling in at a magnificent Tuscan table for a

delicious and fun tasting of cheeses, homemade Italian fare and loads of wine. Also big is B

Cellars, which this year moved from Calistoga to Oakville. The new digs include an interactive

demonstration kitchen, and an incredible food and wine pairing is on offer.

Silverado Resort and Spa, Napa

A favorite indulgence of mine is staying in one of the quaint cottages that are sprinkled

throughout Napa. Silverado Resort & Spa is somewhat of an institution, and is great for

couples. The well-known classic golf course just hosted the Frys.com Open on the PGA Tour;

Relax afterwards at the spa, which offers both hard-core sports massage and a golf ball

massage that uses the ball to work on knots. Nearby, The Cottages of Napa deliver a breakfast

basket of Bouchon Bakery treats. And up in Calistoga, the Cottages of Grove Inn are so close to

the town's geyser you can see the steam when it goes off

Now that you're basking in your own little cottage, and you've made your way through some

tasting rooms and classic wineries, let's push the envelope. Not that any of these wouldn't be

fabulous for beginners, but they're usually not a first-timer's immediate choice. I recently went

to Newton Vineyard, which blew me away. It's on a private estate whose neighbors limit tours

to once a day, so it's a real treat to go. The gardens are spectacular, like Alice In Wonderland,

and we did a tasting on top of Spring Mountain. The stunning Pine Ridge Vineyards has a

fabulous tasting at a glittery table in its caves, and there's also a gorgeous patio for private

tastings. The nearbyRobinson Family Vineyards, is a charming small-lot, family-run winery

that allows just one tasting at a time (make a reservation). One of my favorite varietals from

California is pinot noir--specifically those from Russian River Valley of Sonoma. Healdsburg,

home to that valley and Dry Creek and Alexander, is centered on a 19th Century plaza that's

absolutely adorable. Head to Jordan Winery, in Alexander Valley, which is simply stunning.

Focused on Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, the winery's estate boasts a spectacular

chateau with unforgettable views of the vineyards and gardens. Take a tour and then relax

over a wine and cheese pairing.

Who's coming with me?