Watch Journal May 2015

All That’s Good in Time

The Design Issue

Volume 18, N 4 May 2015

Watch Journal

05>

$10

USD

Featuring: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept RD#1

Also: The Future of Watch Design. Diamonds: How to Choose Like an Expert. The History of Creating Timepieces for Women.

Top Design Watches. A Legendary American Purveyor.

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One adjustment every 100 years. the kind Of cOmplicatiOn that makes life easier.

yOu deserve a real Watch.

Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985.

the mechanical programming of the perpetual calendar means this watch will not require any adjustment until the next turn of the century! to ensure its accuracy, jaeger-lecoultre has equipped this model with a flying tourbillon featuring a cylindrical balance-spring. a feat achieved thanks to the 180 skills united within the manufacture. the oscillating weight is finely engraved with a gold medal received in 1889 – a symbol of the pioneering spirit that has been driving jaeger-lecoultre since 1833.

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One adjustment every 100 years. the kind Of cOmplicatiOn that makes life easier.

yOu deserve a real Watch.

Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985.

the mechanical programming of the perpetual calendar means this watch will not require any adjustment until the next turn of the century! to ensure its accuracy, jaeger-lecoultre has equipped this model with a flying tourbillon featuring a cylindrical balance-spring. a feat achieved thanks to the 180 skills united within the manufacture. the oscillating weight is finely engraved with a gold medal received in 1889 – a symbol of the pioneering spirit that has been driving jaeger-lecoultre since 1833.

WatchJournal_JLC14071_MGTTCQP.indd 1 4/13/15 11:19 AM184_ADS.indd 3 16/04/2015 12:54

TOKIO - GINZA01.45 P.M.

MIRAGE

· 22 TIME MOVER® (8 of them in the safe)· German high-security safe · Fine Timepiece with German 8-day spring- driven movement· Storage drawer for jewellery and watches·· Viewing window made of two-way mirror spy glass· State-of-the-art LED lighting· Integrated thermometer and hygrometer displays· Swiss security lock· Height-adjustable stainless steel feet on a pedestal· Optional German HiFi system with Bluetooth and iPhone/iPod docking station· Fin· Finest German craftsmanship

www.buben-zorweg.com

UNIQUE OBJECTS OF TIME® FOR LOVERS OF FINE TIMEPIECES - FOR THE ARTISTIC ENCHANCEMENT OF AN EXCLUSIVE LIVING AMBIENCE

T:18.5 ”

T:11.75”

B:19.0 ”

B:12.25”

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MIRAGE





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MIRAGE




T:18.5 ”T:11.75”

B:19.0 ”B:12.25”

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United States and Canada - FitzHenry Consulting at (561) 212-6812International - Louis Moinet, Switzerland at +41 32 753 68 14, [email protected] w

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United States and Canada - FitzHenry Consulting at (561) 212-6812International - Louis Moinet, Switzerland at +41 32 753 68 14, [email protected] w

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THE VALLÉE DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH,

UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE

HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE

BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE

SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE

YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH

THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL

TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO

CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF

FINE WATCHMAKING.

TO BREAK THE RULES,YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM.

ROYAL OAKCHRONOGRAPH IN PINK GOLD.

AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES. 646.375.0807NEW YORK: 65 EAST 57TH STREET, NY. 888.214.6858BAL HARBOUR: BAL HARBOUR SHOPS, FL. 866.595.9700AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM


184_ADS.indd 8 15/04/2015 18:07

THE VALLÉE DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH,

UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE

HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE

BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE

SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE

YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH

THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL

TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO

CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF

FINE WATCHMAKING.

TO BREAK THE RULES,YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM.


AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES. 646.375.0807NEW YORK: 65 EAST 57TH STREET, NY. 888.214.6858BAL HARBOUR: BAL HARBOUR SHOPS, FL. 866.595.9700AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM


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DEPARTMENTS

14 Masthead

16 Editor’s Letter

18 Publisher’s Letter

20 Chart

22 Intelligence

42 Happenings

54 Profile

Fawaz Gruosi, Felix Baumgartner, Richard Paige

62 Collector

Tommy Hilfiger, Ian Callum, Marc Conselman

68 Play

Le Baron, Shanghai

69 Stay

The Norman, Tel Aviv

70 Getaway

The Villa Collection, Mustique

72 Necessities

Contents

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Contents

FEATURES

88 Audemars Piguet

A New Concept Watch Sets a New Bar for Acoustics.

96 To Infinity and Beyond

Talking the Future of Watch Design With Today’s Pioneers.

102 Ladies First

A Century of Women’s Watch Design

108 Style

Supernatural: Iconic Watch Designs

118 Substance

A Space Rock on Your Wrist.

122 Manufacture

Diamonds are a Watch’s Best Friend.

130 Legacy

American History: Tiffany & Co.

135 Guide

Top Retailers In The Country, Watch Terminology, Horological Humor.

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Portugieser Annual Calendar. Ref. 5035:

It took Portugal’s ocean-going heroes centuries to

become legends; IWC’s Por tugieser took just

75 years. For it is that long since the appearance

of the first IWC Portugieser with a pocket watch

movement marked the beginning of a new legend-

ary era. And that revolutionary step forward is still

mirrored today in the IWC-manufactured 52850

calibre. The fact that innovative new technology

no longer needs an eternity to achieve legendary

status can be seen in the annual calendar, where

the month, date and day can be read of f at a

glance. iwc. engineered for men.

Mechanical movement, Pellaton automatic winding,

IWC-manufactured 52850 calibre, 7-day power

reserve, Power reserve display, Annual calendar with

displays for the month, date and day, Sapphire

glass, See-through sapphire-glass back, Water-resistant

3 bar, Diameter 44.2 mm

IWC PortugIeser. the legend among ICons.

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SALES AND MARKETINGPublisher

John ClarkinAdvertising Directors

Adriana Gelves Laurel Nuzzo

Marketing Manager Hayley Merrill

Events Coordinator Simon Swig

OPERATIONS

Controller Miles Bingham

Executive Coordinator Laurie Sadove

WATCH JOURNAL LLC

Board of Directors Adam Sandow & Eric Crown

Chief Executive Officer Marc Lotenberg

ADVERTISING & EDITORIAL OFFICE

Watch Journal, LLC 601 W. 26th Street, Suite 1507

New York, NY 10001 [email protected]

EDITORIALEditor in Chief

Hyla BauerCreative Direction Noë & Associates

International Editor Keith W. Strandberg

Assistant Editors Roxy Kirshenbaum Hally Wolhandler

Editorial Coordinator Kay Hodgdon

Contributing Writer Carol Besler

Editor at Large Spencer Bailey

Contributing Editor Justin Min

Digital Imaging Chelsie Craig

Editorial Interns Zoë Bodzas

Julia Lu Emily Manchester

Christopher Malone Max Rovo

Chief Executive OfficerMarc Lotenberg

Watch Journal publishes nine issues a year. Watch Journal is a registered trademark of Watch Journal, LLC. Copyright 2014, Watch Journal. All rights reserved. Reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. Opinions expressed in Watch Journal are not necessarily those of the publisher. Watch Journal, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and publisher accept no responsibility for

inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisement contained herein. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised or promoted in Watch Journal. The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, expressed or implied, as to the information, services, contents, trademarks, patents, materials or products included in this magazine. Advertisers and their agencies

assume all liability for advertising content. All images reproduced in Watch Journal have been accepted by the publisher on the condition that such images are reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the photographer and/or other creator and the subject. As such, the publisher is not responsible for any infringement of the copyright or otherwise arising from any publication in Watch Journal.

Printed in the USA. To subscribe, visit us online at watchjournal.com/subscribe. Email: [email protected].

Watch Journal

Founding Publisher Glen B. Bowen

ONLINE

#watchjournal www.watchjournal.com Twitter: @watchjournal Instagram: @watchjournal

Facebook: facebook.com/watchjournal

SUBSCRIPTIONSTo subscribe, visit us online at: watchjournal.com/subscribe

One-Year Print and Digital: US: $60 / International: $110 Single issue shipped: US: $15/ International: $30

Digital Only: iPad: $14.99, Digital back issues: $6.99

ISSN N 2325-4130

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Editor’s Letter

Design for All Time

Since the First Cave Drawings, Humans have Pursued Accurate Timekeeping.

During planning discussions about the subject of this issue, focused on watch design, the history of the methods of timekeeping and the recording of time were logical starting points for the conversation.

As we further refined the story ideas, my thoughts traveled to design as a larger subject, and how design surrounds us in every aspect of our daily lives. For better or worse, our coffee cups are designed, our clothes are designed, our cars are designed, our smartphones and apps are designed.

The first designs came from nature. From the first ribozymes containing the basics of RNA as we know it today, mother nature has had her own ideas for the design of living creatures. Fossils of trilobites dating from 500 mil-lion years ago grace the pages in our photographic essay, “Supernatural”. A present-day living creature, the common corn snake, his skin ‘s pattern also a product of nature’s design, makes an appearance in the “Supernatural” pages.

Timekeeping has made monumental advances since the early days of homo sapiens. Early humans kept track of days with simple marks on a cave wall in the Paleolithic period, The Mayan Long Count calendar system pre-vailed in pre-Columbian Mesomerica. Chinese water clocks were created and refined in the years of 200—1300 AD.

Today, we have globally consistent calendars and clocks, and our time is marked much more accurately, in much smaller increments, using much smaller and more precise instruments. In the feature “Ladies First”, we explore the last century of timepiece design for women. You’ve come a long way, baby.

What will the future hold for timepiece design? We’ve asked the maverick brain trusts in the field: Keith Strandberg explored the subject with forward-thinking, cutting-edge watch designers. In his piece “Back to the Future” they offer their predictions and educated opinions.

There’s no doubt that mechanical watches will continue to be refined to be more precise, giving us timing to 100th of a second and less, accuracy to less than a few seconds per week, perpetual calendars accurate to beyond 100 years, with longer power reserves to keep it all going. Design innovation will continue to thrive as long as humans stay curious and hold a desire to create a better future.

Here’s to your future, dear reader! Live long and prosper.

— Hyla BauerEditor in Chief

“Timekeeping has made monumental advances since the early days of homo

sapiens. Today, we have globally consistent calendars and clocks, and our time is

marked much more accurately, in much smaller increments.”

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DIOR VIII GRAND BAL “PLISSÉ SOLEIL” 36MM.STEEL, DIAMONDS AND MOTHER-OF-PEARL.

EXCLUSIVE “DIOR INVERSÉ 11 1/2” AUTOMATICCALIBRE, 42-HOUR POWER RESERVE.

LIMITED EDITION OF 888 PIECES.

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1-86

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Founding Publisher’s Letter

Calling All Luxury Consumers

Changing with the Times: Executives Nimbly Navigate the Worldwide Shifts in Demand for Luxury Timepieces

In 2014, watch executives faced receding tides of demand from Hong Kong to Mainland China, largely due to laws prohibiting high-end gift giving and outright bans on advertising luxury goods. Meanwhile, Russians stayed home and were not buying internationally at previous levels. Sales in Japan and the United States grew at a slower rate than predicted, reaching far below their potential levels.

Already anchored in troubled waters, the Swiss Franc’s value became a tidal wave against all other currencies. Despite these challenges, the majority of luxury watch brands remain optimistic for the remainder of 2015, and have crafted strategies to weather the passing economic storm.

95 percent of Swiss luxury timepieces are exported from Switzerland. Brand executives have identified their most important growth markets and have grand plans for optimal ways to compete for new customers in highly competitive markets.

During the past several years, many have tried surfing the Internet for potential buyers. Some were cautious, yet some went headlong into social media such as blogs and forums. Unfortunately, too many executives and agen-cies turned their focus to digital marketing as the new panacea for increased sales.

Many brand executives needed to realize that wealthy consumers have been relentlessly pursued in the digital arena through Facebook, email mar-keting, and the like to the point of exhaustion. Top luxury consumers are drowning in a sea of digital information delivering cleverly programmed com-munication through mathematical logarithms. Potential watch buyers have become numb to this constant bombardment and are opting out, unsubscrib-ing, going off line and seeking ways of getting off the Internet of Everything.

Savvy executives understand that optimization of their sales channels is the number one priority because luxury purchases are just as much about the experience as they are about the acquisition.

The act of buying luxury products is a personal experience, a one-on-one engagement, and usually requires ongoing conversations with clients. It is this kind of partnerships with brands that leads to the acquisition of must-have luxury products. This engagement is more of a whisper between two people than a shout from a megaphone. For real sales growth, brands must have an educated, well-trained team of in-store sales associates adept at personalizing the luxury buying experience for high-end watch buyers.

Empowered by success through legitimate human dialogue, brand execu-tives can and have built stronger relationships with their customers. Bonding with customers on a personal level leads to real partnerships that will drive the luxury buying experience—unlike thousands of impersonal digital messages. Get off line, and make it personal.

—Glen B. BowenFounding Publisher

“The majority of luxury watch brands remain optimistic for the remainder of 2015, and have crafted strategies to weather the

passing economic storm.’’

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SPECIAL SKELETONIZATION

There will be only 300 pieces of Officine Panerai’s Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso made; if you’re hoping to obtain one, you’d better move fast. The special edition timepiece has a cushion case that’s 47 mm in diameter and is constructed in 5nPt red gold and a small amount of platinum. Surrounding the brown dial is a polished red gold bezel with a satine soleil finish. The treatment allows for the catching of light, which enhances its characteristic minimalist design that includes a dial formed by two superimposed discs. To reveal the impressive finish of the movement, the back of the case is left open. It is a P.3001/10 caliber, hand-wound with a power reserve of three days, with an indicator of the remaining reserve on its back. The two barrels are skeletonized, with one of the springs directly connected to the indicator. The bridges are also skeletonized, and have a brushed finish. Water-resistant to a depth of about 50 meters, the watch comes with a brown alligator strap secured by a red gold buckle.panerai.com

ABOVE: The crown of the Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso

RIGHT: The back of the watch

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A NEW TWIST FOR

THE YACHT-MASTER

Developed and patented by Rolex, the new Yacht-Master comes in two sizes: 40 mm and 37 mm diameters. The timepiece boasts an Oyster case in 18-karat Everose gold and a 60-minute graduated rotatable bezel, fitted with polished raised numerals on a matte black background. The sporty rubber strap— as opposed to the traditional metal bracelet—provides additional comfort and flexibility and is equipped with a patented longitudinal cushioning system. Water-resis-tant to a depth of 100 meters, the watch’s fluted caseback and winding crown are con-structed with a Triplock triple waterproof feature. A crown guard and crystal made of scratchproof sapphire add to the durabil-ity of this water-sports timepiece. In keep-ing with all Rolex Perpetual movements, the 3135 and 2236 have passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute tests, and are certified Swiss chronometers.

rolex.comOPPOSITE AND ABOVE: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master

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TOP: The Clé de Cartier 40 mm

BOTTOM: The Clé de Cartier 31 mm

A KEY TO HISTORY

The new Clé de Cartier collection was for-mulated around the idea of a perfect circle: The collection is all smooth lines, featuring rounded bezels and tapered horns. “Clé” is the French word for key, and in a Clé time-piece, the crown resembles one—a continua-tion of Cartier’s history of designing watches with distinctive crowns. The watches feature a new indexed winding mechanism created for ease of use. In addition to its distinctive, soon-to-be-iconic design, the shape of the crown also provides a steady grip for setting the time. The collection also features a new Swiss-made movement, the 1847 MC, named for Cartier’s founding year. The date indica-tor is semi-instantaneous, and the watches all have a power reserve of 42 hours. The timepieces come in 40 mm case sizes in 18-karat white gold or pink-gold versions; a 31 mm edition features brilliant-cut diamonds and a 18-karat pink gold case.

cartier.com

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CLIENT:JOB NO.:

SPACE UNIT:PUBLICATIONS:

CONTACT:

DE GRISOGONODEGR-20150401-00FULL PAGE 4CB (B: 9.75” W x 12.25” H, T: 9.25” W x 11.75” H, L: 8.75” W x 11.25” H)WATCH JOURNAL MAGAZINE - MAY 2015ZACHARY GOULKO - (201) 363-0692 X 113 - [email protected]

PDF CREATED BY ZGOULKOPRINT OPTIMIZED FILE

PDF X1A

520 MAIN ST, STE 202FORT LEE, NJ 07024( 2 0 1 ) 3 6 3 - 0 6 9 2

APPROVED DATETRAFFIC/PROOF READERPRODUCTION SUPERVISORDIRECTOR PRINT SERVICESART DIRECTORCOPYWRITERACCOUNT EXECUTIVEACCOUNT SUPERVISORMANAGEMENT SUPERVISORCREATIVE DIRECTORCLIENT

80 70 70 10010.2 7.4 7.4 100 100 100100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 100 60 100 100 100 10070 70 30 30 100 100 60 70 70 4070 70 30 30 100 40 100 40 40 100 10 40 40 20 70 70 3.1 2.2 2.270 40 40 75 66 6650 40 4025 19 19B 0 0 0 0

100 70 30 100 10 25 50 75 90 100100 60 100 70 30 100 60 40 70 4070 30 100 40 40 100 40 100 40 70 40 70 40 40 340 70 40 70 40 40100 60A

3%ISO 12647-7 Digital Control Strip 2009

Instrumento N°Uno

www•degrisogono•com

A B U D H A B I • B A L H A R B O U R • C O U R C H E V E L • D U B A I • G E N E VA • G S TA A D • K U WA I T • L O N D O N • M O S C O WN E W Y O R K • P A R I S • P O R T O C E R V O • R O M E • S T B A R T H E L E M Y • S T M O R I T Z

N E W Y O R K B O U T I Q U E , 8 2 4 M A D I S O N AV E N U E , N E W Y O R K , N Y, ( 2 1 2 ) 4 3 9 - 4 2 2 0

BAL HARBOUR BOUTIQUE, 9700 COLL INS AVENUE, BAL HARBOUR, FL , (305) 865 -8765

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UNLOCKING TIME

The Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas watch was first designed and created in 1935, and it remains one of the haute joaillerie brand's most iconic and identifying timepieces. The watch name, meaning padlock in French, re-fers to its distinctive clasp, which gives the timepiece the look of a bracelet—a perfect match of high style and practicality. The original Cadenas is rumored to have been created with Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, in mind. This year, the brand is re-leasing a new line of Cadenas watches. The nine-piece collection features enlarged dials and sturdier clasps, which are enforced by two small ceramic beads that provide extra security. Some models are set with white di-amonds in both princess and brilliant cuts, and all are powered by low-maintenance quartz movements.

vancleefarpels.com

Two versions of the Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas Sertie watch

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Timepiece No. 1 | www.porsche-design.com/timepieces

FIRST IN BLACK.THE NEW ORIGINAL.

porsche designTimepieces

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ESCALE WORLDTIME

MINUTE REPEATER

The new Louis Vuitton Escale Repetition Minutes Worldtime watch was designed exclusively for the style-savvy globetrot-ter. Featuring two elegant complications, the Repetition Minutes and Worldtime, the timepiece includes a pink-gold case and a ti-tanium middle case. With a small trunk con-taining a rare movement and a case inspired by the history of the brand, the watch fully encompasses the art of travel as interpreted by Louis Vuitton. The Escale Repetition boasts a diameter of 44 mm and is 11.75 mm thick, with a slender bezel that provides op-timal legibility of the time in 24 time zones. A sapphire crystal on the back of the time-piece reveals a mechanically manufactured hand-wound caliber that was developed and assembled by watchmakers at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in Geneva.

louisvuitton.com

The Louis Vuitton Escale Minute Repeater Worldtime

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For men who don’t need GPS

to know where they stand.

It’s our rough edges that testify real character. The Saxon One with its bold, timeless design lends this conviction

a new form: elegant, dynamic, distinctive. And created with exactly that perfection which has made the predicate “Made in Glashütte” into

a world-famous promise of quality. Saxon One · sweep minute stop chronograph · 6420-04 · US $6,700

MADE FOR THOSE WHO DO.

Saxon One · sweep minute stop chronograph · 6420-04 · US $6,700

MADE FOR THOSE WHO DO.

Watch Journal - Saxon Bold - May 2015 REV 4/10/15

TO OBTAIN FURTHER INFORMATION IN NORTH AMERICA, PLEASE CONTACTTutima USA, Inc. • 1-TUTIMA-USA-1 • [email protected] • www.tutima.com

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ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT:

The Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969

Cedric Laroche

SPRINGING FORWARD

Zenith welcomes a new brand director to America: Cedric Laroche. At his new posi-tion in the North American market, Mr. La-roche will be responsible for Zenith’s sales and marketing activities and the brand’s US subsidiary. Laroche has enjoyed years of success in the Zenith family: He has been the Northern Europe brand director since 2012. While at Zenith in his previous position, La-roche played a pivotal role in raising brand awareness and prestige, while significantly increasing business, and is poised to make the same strides in his new home. He earned a master’s degree in marketing management from the EDC Business School in Paris and counts a decade of experience in the luxury watch industry.

zenith-watches.com

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CALIBER RM 63-01DIZZY HANDS

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RIGHT: The Porsche Design Timepiece No. 1

BELOW: Roland Heiler

PORSCHE-STYLE ACCELERATION

Since 2004, Roland Heiler has been at the helm of the Porsche Design Studio in Zell am See, Austria, and has served as well since 2007 as a member if the management team of Porsche Design Group. Porsche Design are optimistic about the future development of the Design Group and its three branches: Porsche Design, Porsche Driver’s Selection and the Porsche Design Studio.

Mr. Heller was pivotal in the development of the brand’s first fully in-house movement, housed in the Timepiece No. 1, a tachymeter chronograph. In true Porsche Design style, the watch’s exterior shows the same level of commitment to aesthetics with its sleek lines and eye-pleasing proportions, not to mention the exceptional materials employed in the construction of the watch. The auto-matic chronograph has a titanium case with a matte black coating, and will run in a lim-ited edition of 500.

porsche-design.com

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DIVINE PROPORTION

To celebrate nearly two centuries in the business—185 years, to be exact—Baume et Mercier is releasing a timepiece in a limited edition of 185 watches. The Clifton 8-Day Power Reserve features a 45.5 mm 18-karat red-gold case with a satin finish and domed dial. The watch has a mechanical manual-winding movement with an eight-day power reserve, with a subtle power reserve indi-cator on the dial that displays the winding level. The watch features a sapphire crystal caseback, revealing a movement equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism for extremely accurate time-setting; the plate is decorated with a circular-grained finish and the bridge is engraved with the Greek letter Phi—the brand’s logo, as well as the emblem of the mathematical golden ratio.

baume-et-mercier.com

BELOW: Baume et Mercier Clifton 8-Day Power Reserve

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Orville Wright taking first flight with brother Wilbur runningalongside at Kitty Hawk, North Carolina, 17 December 1903.

Image credit: WSU/planepix.com

A feW SeleCt peOple HAve beeN gIveN pArt Of tHe WOrlD’S fIrSt AIrCrAft. preSIDeNtS, AStrONAUtS

AND ANyONe WItH A bremONt WrIgHt flyer.

the bremont Wright flyer is a tribute to the Wright brothers’ famous aircraft. It’s remarkable to look at. but what makes it even more remarkable is that it features actual material from that very first aircraft. the watch also features another first: our first proprietary movement, the bWC/01. the Wright flyer is available now in a limited edition. but it’s unlikely to be available for long.

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IN IT TO WIN IT

Phillips has announced its inaugural fine collector’s watch auction, to be held on May 9 and 10 at the Hotel La Reserve, Geneva. The auction will take place over two days, with each day dedicated to a specific genre of fine timepieces. In the past year, Phillips has retained the services of some of the fin-est watch experts in the world, including Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo, as well as Inter-national Strategy Advisor and head of New York, Paul Boutros.

May 9 will feature 60 examples of impor-tant Rolex Day-Date watches including, those from royal provenance and unique pieces hand-selected by Phillips, in partnership with renowned Rolex scholar Pucci Papaleo. Highlights include a very fine and rare pink gold Day-Date with center seconds, 24 hour two tone dial, rice grain bracelet and origi-nal box, and the reference 1831, an extremely heavy and rare platinum piece made for the Shah of Iran. The Day-Date will be celebrat-ing its 60th anniversary in 2016.

May 10 brings an offer of approximately 160 pieces of exceptional rarity and capti-vating histories. Included in the day’s offer-ings will be an extremely rare stainless steel Patek Philippe doctor’s single button chro-nograph wristwatch, one of two ever made. For those seeking a celebrity provenance, a Panerai Mare Nostrum “Slytech” from 1996, created for Sylvester Stallone before Panerai joined the Vendôme Group (now known as Richemont).

Notably, all watch photography is taken by Mr. Boutros, offering a collector’s perspec-tive on intricate details of the watches. No retouching is permitted at Phillips, so the photos are accurate depictions of the exact quality and condition of the timepiece.

For those not in Geneva on May 9 and 10, the auction can be followed on Phillips’ new microsite phillipswatches.com, and @phillipswatches will be offered across social channels.

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OPPOSITE:: A rare Patek Philippe Reference 1526 in 18-karat yellow gold

BELOW: A Panerai Mare Nostrum limited edition Slytech from 1996

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OPPOSITE: A Rolex reference 3525 in 18-karat yellow gold from 1945

BELOW: Dial detail of the Rolex reference 3525

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TOURNEAU KNOWS BRYANT PARK

On March 16, Tourneau celebrated the opening of its new location adjacent to Bryant Park in New York City as part of the brand’s 115th Anniversary celebration. CEO Ira Melnitsky, SVP of retail Larry Barkley, and Tony Award–winner Jefferson Mays participated in the ceremonial ribbon-cutting among leaders in the watch industry and representatives from neighboring Bryant Park businesses. The 3,300-square-foot space marks the corner of of 42nd Street and Sixth Avenue, which attracts more than 6 million visitors annually. The store houses nearly 20 luxury brands, from Rolex to Glashütte to Cartier to Breitling, as well as Tourneau’s own TNY brand, and its certified pre-owned timepiece collection. Because of the store’s proximity to Broadway, Tourneau celebrates its opening by offering customers who purchase more than $3,000 worth of items two tickets to the show “A Gentleman’s Guide to Love and Murder,” for a limited time.

tourneau.com

LEFT, TOP TO BOTTOM: Exterior and interior views of the Bryant Park store

Kenneth Park Architects partnered with Tourneau to design the interior

ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Gregory Kraff, Peter Nicholson, Laura Petit and Mark Goldberg with Tourneau CEO Ira Melnitsky

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STRENGTH MEETS BEAUTY

TAG Heuer recently announced that com-pany CEO Jean-Claude Biver had added an exciting new face to its roster of ambassa-dors: model and global It girl Cara Delev-ingne. In welcoming Delevingne, the brand designed a special edition Carrera timepiece in her honor. The watch features faceted lugs, an easy-to-read dial and a treated black titanium 41 mm case. Rose-gold plated hands and appliqués add a feminine element, and a diamond-studded bezel version is also avail-able. The back of the case is stamped with a lion head, for Leo, Delevingne’s astrologi-cal sign. The model’s signature is stamped in rose gold on the inside of the watch strap. The timepiece is water-resistant to 100 me-ters, living up to the strength of the lion.

tagheuer.com

THIS PAGE, TOP TO BOTTOM: Cara Delevingne

The entrance to the event

OPPOSITE: The TAG Heuer Carrera Cara Delevingne

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GOLDEN YEARS

On March 30, the film Woman in Gold, star-ring Helen Mirren, Ryan Reynolds, and Katie Holmes, premiered at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City. The movie is based upon the true story of Adele Bloch-Bauer’s niece, Maria Altmann, recovers five Gustav Klimt paintings seized by by the Nazis from the Bloch-Bauer family home in Vienna during World War II.

The Neue Galerie in New York City has opened an intimate exhibition focusing on Klimt’s work with Adele Bloch-Bauer. A. Lange & Sohne is the sponsor of the res-toration of the masterpiece and the sponsor of the exhibition. “Gustav Klimt and Adele Bloch-Bauer: The Woman in Gold”, will be on view until September 7.

neuegalerie.orgwomaningoldmovie.orgalange-soehne.com

TOP: The A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Automatik in 18K rose gold

OPPOSITE: Dame Helen Mirren with Klimt's Woman in Gold at the Neue Galerie

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PIAGET CELEBRATES GOLD

CUP IN PALM BEACH

In March, Piaget hosted two important events in Palm Beach: the annual Piaget Gold Cup at the International Polo Club and a special introductory party for its new Mediterranean Garden high jewelry collection. Brand CEO Philippe Leopold-Metzger and Piaget North America president Larry Boland, along with James R. Borynack, CEO of Wally Findlay Galleries, hosted an exclusive cocktail party at the Worth Avenue Gallery to showcase its new collection. Attendees included top polo players from the Ellerstina Piaget team, Facundo Pieres, Gonzalo Pieres and Nico Pieres. Helga Piaget and interior designer Geoffrey Bradfield were also in attendance.

piaget.com

LEFT: On the field

BELOW: Larry Boland and Gonzalo Pieres

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Dwyane Wade greets one of the evening's special guests

PHILANTHROPIC TENDENCIES

On March 10, Miami Heat’s Dwyane Wade, a brand ambassador for Hublot, presented 15 unsuspecting foster children with cus-tomized “Black Tie” Heat jerseys for Prom. Wade and Jean-Francois Sberro, managing director of Hublot of America, followed up with Hublot Atelier timepieces for the boys during an on-court presentation at Ameri-can Airlines Arena, where the Heat played the Cleveland Cavaliers. The boys were first invited to the arena for a VIP tour, which ended in the Heat locker room where Wade appeared in his own Black Tie suit. Wade spoke to the boys on the importance of self-presentation, and again on March 16 at the game. Calyann Barnett, Wade’s personal stylist, advised the boys on dressing for suc-cess with one-on-one fashion advice.

hublot.com

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Stéphane Linder, will.i.am and Marco Bizzarri

GUCCI TIMEPIECES

SMARTBAND ANNOUNCEMENT

AT BASELWORLD

At the recent Baselworld fair Gucci Time-pieces announced its plan to develop a smartband in collaboration with i.am+, created by the musician will.i.am. Moder-ating the panel discussion was Watch Jour-nal international editor, Keith Strandberg. The partnership aims to create a wearable technology that comes with a personal assis-tant that embodies the functionality of a smartphone with voice recognition. i.am+ was founded by will.i.am to optimize inte-grated lifestyles through new media with pop culture insights and research. Gucci has been making watches since the 1970s, and this collaboration embodies what Gucci Timepieces CEO Stéphane Linder and will.i.am have coined “fashionoligy,” or the fusion between fashion and technology.

gucciwatches.comiamplus.com

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A NEW MASTER

During March’s Baselworld fair, Omega hosted a private celebration, unveiling the new Globemaster, the world’s first Master Chronometer at the von Bartha art gal-lery, The watch is the first timepiece to ex-ceed the standards of the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronométres (COSC). It has also passed the certification tests from the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS). Omega worked closely with METAS in late 2014 to master the eight criteria the watch had to pass in order to achieve the title of Master Chronometer. “Now we have finalized that whole process and to make it really meaningful we have a watch that we

decided to launch which will be the flagship of the Omega brand in the future,” Omega president Stephen Urquhart said. Following the presentation of the new Globemaster, guests at the event were able to view exhib-its that showcased the full Globemaster col-lection, the eight criteria that determined its status as Master Chronometer and inter-active stations demonstrating the strength of the magnetic fields in objects like cell phones, tablets and cameras. The Globe-master represents the first of a new genera-tion of watches sharing both certifications.

omegawatches.com

ABOVE: Omega president Stephen Urquhart

LEFT: The Omega Globemaster

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THE AMERICAN MAGAZINE OF GLOBAL CONTEMPORARY DESIGN.

SUBSCRIBE VIASURFACEMAG.COM AND

GET THE APP FOR FREE

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FAWAZ GRUOSI

By Hyla Bauer

The Master Jeweler on His Untraditional Approach.

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“[My career] is like a movie in the sense that I had to start working when I was barely 18 because my girlfriend was preg-nant, and we decided to get married. My family told me I was crazy because I was 18, and in Italy no one could get married until the age of 21. So I said if you don’t sign the paper allowing me to be married, I will never see you again.

And so I ran around the city to find a job and I saw a jewelry store, looking for a salesperson. They hired me, and that’s how I started. Actually when I was young, my friends would make fun of me because selling jewelry was not for a man. After a few years I went to London and I worked seven years as a manager. And then Harry Winston made me an offer to go to Saudi Arabia as a general manager to represent the brand. 1978 was the boom of oil, and money was coming out from the sky, so my worst day was half a million dollar sales and my best day was 8 million.

I left Saudi Arabia, and Bulgari hired me, and they gave me the role of taking care of VIP clients, which I did for seven

years. One day I said, ‘I can’t do this any-more.’ I was no longer happy with what I was seeing. I had about 16,000 Swiss Francs, which is $60,000 today. I opened a

little shop and I was selling jewelry that I obtained from other jewelers. I started car-rying jewelry and objets d’art. And slowly, slowly, slowly, I came out with drawing the design—I never designed before in my life. You know, I was 43 years old then.

It was very difficult because they were

looking at the window and they were say-ing ‘well, this is crazy, this is too show off, this is for the nouveau riche.’ At the same time I started working with black dia-monds, which had never been used before. And I was criticized especially for the black diamonds—I was going to other jewelers, thinking what is this black diamond, and they were saying forget it, this guy is just crazy. He’s cheating people with his terri-ble dirty diamonds. They say it is bad luck, or whatever. Then I wrote a book about black diamonds because I was frustrated. Because I wanted to defend the black stone.

Most of the jewelry stores in this genera-tion had a father, or a grandfather or some-one in the family in the business; I had no one in the business. I think it’s a miracle because after five or six years we already had four shops and now we have 16 shops in 21 years. And we are able to put a lot of people in the company. I never thought at all when I started that I would have some-thing like this.”

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for a man.” —Fawaz Gruosi

LEFT: Fawaz Gruosi

ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT:

The de Grisogono Uno Tourbillon N01 in polished 18-karat white gold

The de Grisogono Grappoli 208, a women’s watch in white gold set with Briolette-cut tanzanite and brilliant-cut white diamonds and blue sapphires

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FELIX BAUMGARTNER

By Keith W. Strandberg

Beat the Speed of Sound in a Free Fall to Earth.

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In 2012, Felix Baumgartner jumped out of a space capsule and free fell to earth a re-cord-breaking 127,852 feet. The only thing between himself and certain death was a thin parachute. Baumgartner is an ambas-sador for Zenith timepieces, and wore a special-edition Stratos chronograph during his freefall.

“I’ve always done whatever I’ve wanted and makes me happy—like base jumping, sky diving, driving rally cars, having fun with the electric scooter and enjoying the simple things in everyday life,” Baumgartner says. “Right now I’m more into becoming a rescue helicopter pilot, competing in some cool rally races and working around the world for the brands associated with my image and for my fans.”

Challenge drives Baumgartner, and it is the reason he partnered with Zenith. “The idea of being the first in the world or the best in something is on a lot of people’s minds, but not everyone is committed to follow-ing their dreams,” he says. “I am. I’ve never stopped dreaming since I was a child. I’ve put hard work and courage into everything, but also I have dared to push my limits.”

Baumgartner isn’t immune to fear, though. “You can’t risk your life in any attempt with-out knowing the whole picture of the dan-gers,” he says. “I am a human being, so fear is always there, with joy, excitement, sadness or love. I have a different relationship with fear; we are kind of buddies and fear helps me stay alive. My biggest fear so far was about my limits during the training for Stra-tos jump—I was afraid that I would never get rid of that claustrophobic feeling in that suit and capsule, because I was used to wearing jeans and a T-shirt while flying or jumping.”

Baumgartner is a big fan of watches in general and Zenith in particular. “I don’t

look for quantity, but for one-of-a-kind pieces. I definitely choose the quality and the perfect match with my taste and my per-sonality.

“I feel like watches and the human body have a lot in common—they are complicated mechanisms, but once you learn how to use them and how to take care of them, they will give you exactly what you need,” he says.

Baumgartner has had some incredible ex-periences in his life, but the Red Bull Stratos project was his favorite. “I was the first man on this planet beating the speed of sound in free fall, without any machinery,” he says. “It is not just a great personal achievement, but

also a great scientific opportunity to study all the aspects of a human body during such an experience. “All the data collected by the scientists is going toward finding the best ways to survive in emergency escapes for astronauts.”

Baumgartner is getting used to the spot-light, but he still prefers the quiet of his home: Switzerland. “I live in many places—I travel a lot, I work everywhere on this planet, but I will always live in quiet places,” he says. “At the end of the day, after all the attention and excited crowds, I need some silence, with awesome landscapes.”

LEFT: Felix Baumgartner

RIGHT: Baumgartner about to jump

BELOW, TOP TO BOTTOM: The Zenith El Primero Sport The Zenith Elite 6150

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“I have a different relationship with fear; we are kind of buddies

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—Felix Baumgartner

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The Fourth Generation Watchmaker Keeps on Ticking.

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Richard Paige knows watches: The former owner of TimeZone.com is also a fourth-generation watchmaker. “My dad decided when I was 12 that it was a good time to learn about watchmaking,” he says. “He taught me to fix most kinds of mechanical watches, and by the age of 16, I was doing most of his repair work.”

Nearly 40 years later, Paige still loves timepieces. “I love the idea that you can have a miniature machine on your wrist, and yet it’s still, visually, a piece of mascu-line jewelry,” he explains.

Paige opened his own watch repair shop in Mill Valley California after graduating from college, then opened an antique watch and jewelry store, growing his business to several stores in the San Francisco Bay Area and Hawaii.

The proximity to Silicon Valley inspired him to start working online. “I was an early adopter of personal computers, and as the technology evolved, the next big thing was the Internet,” he remembers. “I discovered TimeZone.com in 1997, and at the time, it was a blog only, based in Sin-gapore. I bought the domain name in 1997, and then began the process of changing the direction and content of the site. I added brand-centric forums, an online watch re-pair school, articles by myself and other journalists, an encyclopedia of watch defi-nitions, reviews of watches, limited edition watches sold through TimeZone and most of all—entertainment.”

After selling TimeZone to Ashford.com, Paige decided to move to Hawaii perma-nently.

He retired from the watch and Internet worlds and began doing real-estate devel-opment. But like many watch people, time-pieces still had their hooks in Paige. “It wasn’t until two years ago that I decided

that I would resurrect a watch design con-cept that I came up with in the late 1980s. I had created a wristwatch from an old gold pocket watch. I loved the watch, but every-one who saw me wearing it poked fun at the size of it, which was around 44 mm, now considered a normal size for a wristwatch, so I felt that the time was right to manufac-ture my own watch.”

Paige had already developed five other limited edition watches for TimeZone. “They all sold out,” he says. “My only con-cern was I couldn’t bear to use a common movement. This eliminated most of the movements from ETA, and since the great watch houses don’t sell their movements to other manufacturers, I was forced to look elsewhere. Where could I get a top tier movement that was obtainable and worthy? The answer came to me: The greatest pro-duction movements of all time come from vintage American pocket watches,” he says. So, Paige hired a team of cousins, also fourth-generation watchmakers, who re-work and refurbish the vintage movements.

His Rpaige watches range in price from $2,800 to $3,500, including unique pieces and very limited edition series. Paige sells them on rpaigewatches.com, and he recently opened up a retail store in Ho-nolulu, which carries Rpaige watches as well as other brands. Paige also does be-spoke work, such as taking a pocket watch movement a customer has and reworking it into a new watch. “I love to work with a client who wants me to create a watch that is unique to them—a collaboration of de-signer and wearer,” he says.

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“I was an early adopter of personal computers, and as the technology

evolved, the next big thing was the Internet.” —Richard Paige

LEFT: Richard Paige

RIGHT: The Rpaige Wrocket Carousel

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“My father was a watchmaker and jewelry repairman, so my siblings and I grew up learning about watches…I was always fascinated by the mechanisms and rotors, and how all the small

elements came together to make a watch tick.”

TOMMY HILFIGERFashion Designer,

Founder of Tommy Hilfiger Corporation

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The name Tommy Hilfiger has been synonymous with American sportswear since he launched his brand in 1985. He began his career at the age of 18, going to New York City from his hometown of Elmira, NY, to buy jeans and pants that he then customized and resold at a hometown store.

Hilfiger then opened his own store, called the People’s Place, in Elmira, where he started to design clothing. In 1995 he was named Menswear Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

“Since I founded my company in 1985, it has grown into a global lifestyle brand with over 1,400 stores worldwide,” Hilfiger says. “Our success has come from staying true to our vision of classic American cool, com-bined with hard work and determination. It’s important to never stop believing in yourself.”

As a child, jewelry and watches surrounded Hilfiger. “My father was a watchmaker and jewelry repairman, so my siblings and I grew up learning about watches,” he recalls. “I was always fascinated by the mechanisms and rotors, and how all the small elements came together to make a watch tick.”

“Our brand has always been rooted in innovation, and we see every new collection as an opportunity to create products that excite our consumers and exceed their ex-pectations,” Hilfiger says. “When designing watches, we always look for the latest developments in materials, styles and fits, then elevate the pieces with details that reflect our classic American cool DNA. I look forward to the challenge of bringing something fresh to our custom-ers each season.”

The first watch that Hilfiger bought with his own money was a Timex. “When I was young I got my first job mowing lawns in our neighborhood,” he says. “I loved earning my own money and being able to buy what I wanted, including that first Timex. Today, I am wearing a stainless steel Tommy Hilfiger watch with a blue dial, one of my go-to watches for every day. For a daytime look, I like something with a brown or black leather strap; for evening events I like styles that are sleek. I prefer leather straps or metal bracelets for day-to-day, and rubber for when we’re doing something more sporty; my family and I love to sail in summer and ski in winter. The one vintage watch I wish I had is a Rolex Daytona.”

Hilfiger feels fortunate to be where he is and looks forward to every day. “My family is my biggest joy, my in-spiration and the best thing in my life,” he says. “The big-gest priority in my life is spending time with my family. My days are very hectic, but I always plan my schedule around maximizing my time with my wife and children. I’m also lucky to love my job.” —As told to Keith W. Strandberg

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OPPOSITE: Tommy Hilfiger courtesy Richard Phibbs

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A trio of Tommy Hilfiger Blue Marine watches, introduced at Baselworld 2015

BELOW: A look from the Tommy Hilfiger fall 2015 collection

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“For Jaguar, what I am looking for is visual drama that other cars don’t have. I am looking

to use the shape of the car to its maximum effect.”

IAN CALLUM Design Director,

Jaguar Cars

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At the age of 14, Ian Callum saw the Jaguar XJ6 and sent some design sketches to the brand’s then chief engineer Bill Haynes. Haynes encouraged the young man to con-tinue his endeavors, and the rest is history. At a recent event hosted by Bremont I sat down with Callum, who has been working with the timepiece brand on Jaguar watches.

“Like any design, watch design is all about detail,” Cal-lum says. “I’ve never been a great watch collector—I love buying watches because I like the look of them, the design and the articulation. I have never bought watches because of the brand.

“For men, watches are a form of jewelry, and I think they say something about you as a person,” he continues.

“Some people can get quite intrigued by brands, but I am intrigued by the designs that people decide to put on their wrists.”

Callum’s preferred aesthetic for watches is simple and mechanical. “I like minimalist watches,” he says. “and watches that are very slim as well. I also love the mechan-ics. That’s also why I love older cars, because they are much more purely mechanical.”

Watches are a natural progression for Callum because he and his team design every bit of the car, including the gauges. “We design a lot of digital stuff, a lot of analog graphics for our cars—the rev counters, the speedometers and more—so we are used to doing these graphics,” he explains. “We like them to be like jewels and artistic. It’s

about detail, depth and clarity. Design to me has to have a sense of clarity. When you look at the dial of a car or a watch, you see the big picture, you understand the story and then you look at the layers and the details.”

That doesn’t mean the Bremont project didn’t pres-ent new challenges. “We were capturing and replicating something from the past, very deliberately,” he says. “In some ways it’s a story that’s already been told. All we are doing is reflecting that story.”

He adds that, “Part of my job is to determine what is more important than others. If the objective of the watch was to make it a glamorous piece of dress wear and have a lot of detail, it would have been very different than the watch we did.”

As the gatekeeper of Jaguar design, Callum is very clear about what he has to achieve. “For Jaguar, what I am look-ing for is visual drama that other cars don’t have,” he says.

“I am looking to use the shape of the car to its maximum ef-fect. We put as much form and shape across the width of the car as we have across the length of the car. We really push every millimeter we can to make it effective and I think we push it a little more than others. It’s all about the proportions. Quite frequently, we come up with some-thing that I think is great, but it’s not a Jaguar.” —As told to Keith W. Strandberg

jaguar.combremont.com

OPPOSITE: Ian Callum

ABOVE: Three views of the Bremont Jaguar MKI

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MARC CONSELMAN Owner and CEO,

Texas Boot Company

“The tradition in my family was that my grandparents gave each of their

grandchildren watches for school graduation, and I received a Seiko at mine.”

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“For me, watches are about what they represent. I like the feel of the watch on my arm, and I am reminded of the sentiment I felt when I got it. We have a tradition in my family that watches are given as gifts for life milestones. My wife gave me a watch for our very first Christmas to-gether, a Breitling Aerospace, so that sentiment is tan-gible.

The further along the road I get as a CEO of a company, there are so many things I still want to do, and I realize that the most precious resource is time. A watch reminds me that we don’t have an infinite amount of time. The tra-dition in my family was that my grandparents gave each of their grandchildren watches for school graduation, and I received a Seiko at mine. I am not a collector, but the watches that I do have are meaningful and mark special occasions, and therefore hold great sentiment.

Watches indirectly helped me found my business, the Texas Boot Company. As a graduate business student, I had the great fortune to go to Schaffhausen, Switzer-land, to visit the International Watch Company as part of a tour of European businesses that our program offered. On that trip, I was inspired to follow my entrepreneurial dreams, and was very impressed with the quality of the IWC craftsmen. I was struck by the fact that if you made a quality product, you did not have to be in a big city—you could create your own reputation, and folks would find you. I thought of that trip often when I was charting the

business and that's kind of what we have done here in our little town of Bastrop, Texas.

Watches and boots are not so dissimilar, as they both help their owners display personality and character. We even have people who collect boots. One of my great memories of my childhood is going to my uncle’s boot stores and smelling the leather and seeing the exotic boots.

Now that I am designing boots, I have an extreme ap-preciation for how they are made, and what they repre-sent. It’s nostalgia and respect for a different time. In addition to that, boots are just cool.

My favorite boot is the Nile Crocodile boot that we de-signed. I like anything that we design that sells really well, but it’s more than money, it’s the recognition that we cre-ated something that others appreciate. We really value the customer experience. I like the ‘Wow’ effect. We love it when people come to our store and tell us that they can find things here that they can’t find anywhere else.

I wear my favorite boots three times a week. At the next milestone, I am looking for another watch. I will look for something that is more unique. I was very impressed with my trip to IWC, so that brand is definitely on my radar for my next purchase.” —As told to Keith W. Strandberg

texasbootcompany.com

OPPOSITE: Marc Conselman

ABOVE: LEFT TO RIGHT

The Breitling Jet Team American Tour Chronomat 44

The IWC Portugieser Chronograph in stainless steel

The Seiko Prospex Solar Chronograph Flight Computer

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LE BARON SHANGHAI

A seductive club designed by Storeage Amsterdam and artist André Saraiva.

By Max Rovo

For the latest addition to the global chain of Le Baron night-clubs—the first opened in Paris in 2004—design firm Storeage Amsterdam collaborated with French graffiti artist André Saraiva (an owner of the club) to create a Shanghai location in an old office building in the city’s French Concession neigh-borhood. The design for the space was inspired by the close quarters of a French apartment, as well as Saraiva’s artwork and the rich sensuality of the pairing of red and black.

Storeage used a series of designs by Saraiva as a starting point, interpreting the artist’s drawings onto floor and wall coverings for the club in red, purple and black, and referenc-ing not only the artist but the playful aesthetic of the 1980s Memphis Group. Three diamond-shaped infinity mirrors reflect the design of Le Baron’s many locations, and furni-ture is arranged so that guests will run into each other—thus forcing them to meet. Leather and velvet combine to make Le Baron an undeniably sensual atmosphere, with a seductive vibe that is only enhanced by the sly placement of furniture.

lebaronshanghai.com

BELOW AND RIGHT: Views of the new Le Baron in Shanghai

LE BARON 20 Donghu Lu 7/F Shanghai 200040

Photos by Colin Jones, Shenzhen

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RIGHT: An outdoor dining space at The Norman

BELOW: A suite at the hotel

THE NORMAN Nachmani Street 23-25 Tel Aviv, Israel

THE NORMAN

A Worldly Hotel that Centers on Tel Aviv.

By Julia Lu

With summer on the way and adventures in the works, travelers destined for Tel Aviv will find sophisticated grandeur at The Norman. Located by Rothschild Boule-vard in the historic city, the hotel was converted from two buildings from the 1920s and pristinely restored by Yoav Messer Architects with interior design by David d’Almada of firm Sagrada. D’Almada decorated the hotel to mimic an art gallery, with original Israeli oil paintings, unique sculptures and one-of-a-kind prints throughout the public spaces and in guest rooms and suites. A resi-dent curator is available to offer insight into the pieces around the hotel; the curator also leads bespoke tours of local galleries and artists’ studios.

In addition to two restaurants (one serving Mediterra-nean fare and the other Japanese tapas), The Norman has the Library Bar, a quintessential hotel bar that is styled like an English lounge, and the Conservatory, a private

lounge overlooking an atrium that is exclusively available to hotel guests.

A wellness center features a state-of-the-art fitness room as well as a spa that offers a range of treatments—all of which can be enjoyed on a balcony overlooking Tel Aviv or in-room. The hotel’s rooftop sundeck features an unobstructed panoramic view of the city and includes an infinity pool. Together, they combine to provide a calming retreat from the city’s bustling life.

thenorman.com

Photos courtesy The Norman


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Views of the Mustique Villa Collection

MUSTIQUE VILLA COLLECTION Av. Tomàs Blanes Tolosa, 4 07015, Calvià Spain

MUSTIQUE VILLA COLLECTION

Mustique Offers 75 Unique Villas in a Caribbean Paradise.

By Zoë Bodzas

Mustique, an island nestled in St. Vincent and the Grena-dines, boasts tropical climes, hills and palm beaches. This idyllic Caribbean spot also offers a selection of more than 75 luxury villas. The Mustique Villa Collection com-prises a variety of homes whose architecture and interior design reflect their owners’ personalities and interests. Collectively, the villas offer a range of hospitality op-tions in a variety of sizes, from small cottages for cozy honeymoons to 10-room private estates—perfect for multigenerational vacations. Each villa staffs a chef, gardener and maid for ultimate convenience. For par-ents seeking even more relaxation, some choice villas include “kids only” game rooms and serene Japanese Zen gardens, with childcare and babysitting also available by request. For sportier vacationers, many of the larger es-tates include private tennis courts, swimming pools and putting greens, plus water sports like scuba diving, sail-ing and fishing. To preserve the island's natural beauty for years to come, many homes now incorporate greener technologies.

mustique-island.com

Photos courtesy The Mustique Company


212.463.8898WWW.CVSTOS.COM

CHALLENGE

SEA-LINER

CVSTOS NEW SEA LINER CORP WATCH JOURNAL.indd 1 5/27/14 4:33 PM184_ADS.indd 37 15/04/2015 18:08

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MASERATI

$140,500

(877) 696-2737

maserati.com

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FRESH STYLEMaserati’s new Quattroporte—the sixth version of the model—has four doors but rivals the speed of most two-door supercars, and it's larger yet lighter than the previous Quattroporte models.

SAFETY FIRSTA fifty-fifty weight distribution utilizing double-wishbone front suspension and five-link rear suspension gives the car unrivaled handling in any driving condition. Engineered with the most advanced protection of its passengers in mind, it is deceptively rugged in any kind of weather.

SPEED-OMETER The Quattroporte can reach a speed of 100 kilometers per hour in under five seconds, and a maximum speed of 307 kilometers per hour—making it the fastest four-door Maserati ever built.

CAR WITH A CONSCIOUSMaserati didn’t build the new Quattroporte without the environment in mind. Compared to the previous model, this version of the Quattroporte has 20 percent lower fuel consumption and 20 percent reduced emissions.


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IN THE BRIEF (CASE) The structured, sleek Absolute leather attaché case from Boss is roomy enough to carry all workplace necessities in a style fit for any boardroom.

LUXURIOUS LEATHERThe bag’s features include a detachable 28-inch shoul-der strap as well as a sturdy top handle. Made from smooth calfskin leather, it has an easy-access zip pocket on the exterior back. Manufactured in Germany, the versatile bag is available in black or dark brown.

INTERIOR DESIGNERWith a multicompartmental design, it's easy to stay organized for any meeting or a quick business trip. The attaché’s interior includes two large slip pockets, one zip pocket and four pen slips within the fabric lining. Not only will it be difficult to lose a smartphone and writing utensils, but laptops will also be protected in a padded, built-in sleeve.

BOSS

$645

(800) HUGO BOSS

hugoboss.com


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ALL-WEATHER GEAR Canada Goose’s Timber Shell men’s jacket is made with the brand’s exclusive Tri-Durance Hard Shell material, an all-weather proof fabric with a comfortable four-way stretch. Reflective strips for visibility makes it safe for all kinds of sporting activities in varying light conditions, and an adjustable draw cord and zippered armpits add to the versatility of the jacket.

HOME GROWNThe brand has produced all of its products in Canada since its founding in Toronto in 1957. Since then, Canada Goose has focused on being in the forefront of designing clothing and outerwear for extreme weather conditions. STORAGE SIMPLIFIEDIdeal for any type of outdoor adventuring, the Timber Shell jacket features pockets with water-repellent lock-ing zippers. It is available in five bold colors.

CANADA GOOSE

$675

(416) 780-9850

canada-goose.com


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HAPPY ANNIVERSARYThis year marks a huge milestone for Stetson hats: It’s the brand’s 150th anniversary. To commemorate the momentous occasion, the company is launching a collec-tion of new and revived products, including the Icon 50x, which is made of fur felt and comes in silver belly or black versions.

DIGITAL DETAILSTo celebrate the anniversary, Stetson has created an interactive digital platform that celebrates its past by connecting it to the present. Their digital microsite

(150.stetson.com) interactively explores the brand, allowing users to explore Stetson's history, discover how the hats are made and browse travel destinations with a Stetson-curated city guide.

A CENTURY AND A HALF The anniversary collection will include hats, footwear, clothing, belt buckles and fragrances, all adorned with a 150th anniversary commemorative pin or stamp.

STETSON

$690

(866) 271-7077

stetson.com


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TO COIN A PHRASE History buffs and fashionable men alike will be attracted to Jorge Adeler’s Gods and Heroes cufflink collection. A selection of styles are available at Bergdorf Goodman, including the Antoninus Pius pair, made of certified authentic coins that date to the reign of the eponymous emperor.

ANCIENT CRAFTSMANSHIPAdeler is so passionate about his pieces, he travels the globe in search of gems and coins for them—from the emerald mines of Colombia to the diamond bourses in

Israel. Each Antoninus Pius cufflink features a genuine ancient Roman silver denarius coin, and comes with a certificate of authenticity from the American Numismatic Association.

HISTORY ON YOUR WRISTAdeler’s goal with the Gods and Heroes collection is to connect the wearer with great moments in ancient his-tory. Antoninus Pius was a great thinker of his time, a law-yer by training, he introduced the ideas of presumption of innocence and fair trial venue. The Antoninus cufflinks are a perfect accessory for attorneys and judges.

JORGE ADELER

$5,985

(703) 759-4076

adelerjewelers.com


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I’VE GOT A SECRET The Secret Wonder ring by Harry Winston is a shining example of its latest high jewelry collection, Secrets by Harry Winston. DOUBLE DUTY The top side of the Secret Wonder ring features an exquisite medallion design, meticulously set with a starburst of round and pear-shaped diamonds. The medallion can be flipped to the reverse side, revealing of sapphires, diamonds, and aquamarines artfully set in the white gold.

FIFTH AVENUE FANCY Harry Winston opened his doors in 1932, with an offer-ing of diamonds and precious stones set in surprising, innovative, and unique jewelry. He donated the Hope Diamond to the Smithsonian Institute in November of 1958, and the remarkable blue stone is a star attraction to this day.

HARRY WINSTON

PRICE UPON REQUEST

(212) 399-1000

harrywinston.com


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PINK PARADISEDavid Yurman’s Reverse Set Hot Pink Spinel and Diamond Earrings offer a shining example of the creativity and in-novation that have been the standard of David Yurman’s designs since he founded his company in 1980.

UNIQUELY YOURSThe one-of-a-kind pair was hand-crafted using more than 89 carats of rare hot-pink spinels, in a unique reverse set-ting. A princess-cut diamond serves as a sparkly accent on the hinge of each earring between the top round setting and the drop.

ON THE MOVEThe earrings are designed to swing subtly with move-ment, and the facets of the spinels and diamonds are perfectly poised to reflect a warm sparkling light onto the lucky owner.

QUALITY CONTROLDavid Yurman uses only the finest stones in the high-jewelry collection. The earrings’ princess-cut diamonds are rated GH/VS, and the spinels were hand selected to match in color and clarity.

DAVID YURMAN

$60,000

(888) 398-7626

davidyurman.com

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FINE CRAFTSMANSHIPDavidoff’s lacquered Grand Dome Humidor features a burl walnut finish and a varnished okoume interior, which keeps it from absorbing humidity. Skilled craftsmen in France make all Davidoff humidors, and the Grand Dome, which holds up to 100 cigars and comes with a push-button hidden compartment hidden for other accessories, is no exception.

TOTAL CONTROLDesigned to maintain a relative humidity of 70 percent, Davidoff Humidors correct fluctuations to preserve the

highest integrity of flavors in the cigars, so they taste the way they were meant to taste. Two regulators come with every humidor for total power over humidity levels.

HERITAGEZino Davidoff is widely credited with inventing the first humidor in the 1940s for preserving Cuban cigars. Born in 1906 into a family of tobacconists in Kiev, Davidoff traveled throughout South America and Cuba in the 1920s to learn how different cigars were made before returning to Switzerland to take over his parents’ business.

DAVIDOFF

$13,750

(727) 824-5400

davidoff.com


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SOUND AND SUSTENANCE Newcomer Thomas & Darden’s Kube is a portable audio system/food cooler designed for indoor and outdoor use. Weighing about 20 pounds, Kube is built to last; it is water-resistant and can hold a single charge for up to 20 hours. The Kube’s Bluetooth range is 50 feet, and it delivers sound from 3 to 100 decibels.

FUN IN THE SUNKube acts as a cooler to store food and beverages, making it perfect for park hangouts and beach picnics. Handles on both sides make for easy transportation of this cooler-

sound-system, a must-have accessory for outdoor gatherings.

DESIGNED FOR STYLEWith dimensions of 17 by 23 inches, Kube isn’t technically a cube, but its design is sleek and contemporary. The audio system features two marine-certified lattice speaker grills by Polk Audio. The system is finished in matte gray. Covered USBs for water-resistance and five simple button controls round out the exterior.

KUBE

$1,099

(855) YOU-KUBE

kubesound.com

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FLY INNOVATIONL.L. Bean's Apex Four-Piece Fly Rod Outfit promises the brand's lightest, fastest fly fishing performance. The agile rod, the product of 100 years of testing and innovation from the brand, features nanotechnology for added strength and sensitivity, with multidirectional scrim and graphite. This additional durability ensures a rod sturdy enough to endure tough fishing, bushwhack-ing and traveling.

BOLD LOOK, HIGH PERFORMANCEIn addition to its technical prowess, the Apex Outfit is

available in bright orange for a standout contemporary look. Crafted in sleek T6061 aluminum with an anodized finish, this rugged high-performance rod resists corro-sion. The Apex also offers cork grips for added comfort.

RUGGED FE ATURESThe rod includes a G10 reel seat spacer, which is resis-tant to corrosion and water, as well as a Scientific An-glers floating fly line, leader and backing installed with the reel. For convenience, the rod easily switches from left- to right- hand retrieve and travels smoothly in an aluminum rod tube with a screw-off cap.

L.L. BEAN

$750

(800) 441-5713

llbean.com


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OUTDOOR ENTHUSIASTVictorinox Swiss Army’s Ranger Grip Boatsman is a per-fect multipurpose tool for a variety of activities in the great outdoors. The knife, which comes in a protective and convenient nylon pouch, is an easy-to-spot bright yellow color. One of the nine varieties of the Ranger Grip collection, the Boatsman houses eight implements with a total of 19 functions.

GET A GRIPThe knife’s ergonomic handle grips easily, and is made from organic polished cellidor and rubber inlays. At 130

millimeters long and with a weight of 9.4 ounces, this Swiss Army knife is sturdy and hefty, with lock blades for added security. A lifetime warranty on manufacturing malfunctions covers the entire piece.

WINE AND DINEAdditional features include a corkscrew, key ring, can opener, a small screwdriver, cap lifter with screwdriver and wire stripper, needle nose pliers, wire cutters and a nut wrench. The Ranger Grip Boatsman's main knife is a 3.9 inch one-hand serrated locking blade.

VICTORINOX

$203

(800) 442-2706

swissarmy.com


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DOUBLE DUT YVitra’s home furniture collection welcomes the Plano-phore, a bookshelf and room divider in one. Designed by British duo Edward Barber and Jay Osgerby, the book-shelf is available in two heights and two widths, two wood finishes and two aluminum finishes.

IN PL ANE SIGHTThe Planophore draws inspiration from the 1871 Plano-phore model airplane that is powered by twisted rubber bands. Its solid wood shelves appear to float on slim aluminum panels that can be rotated to frame neighbor-

ing objects. The axis on which the panels rotate is offset to allow for a myriad of arrangements as well as struc-tural stability.

BARBER AND OSGERBY Swiss company Vitra was founded in 1950 and is dedi-cated to improving places through design. The Plano-phore bookshelf belongs to a collection of products designed by Barber and Osgerby for Vitra that includes the Mariposa sofa and the Zeb stool.

VITRA

Price Available in June

(212) 463-5750

vitra.com

Photo by Marc Eggimann


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THE LION’S DEN Westley Richards & Co.’s just-introduced Lion Rifle sets a new gold standard for marksmanship. Crafted from the finest Turkish walnut and adorned with gold lettering and detailed engravings of lions in various fighting poses, the Lion Rifle is as beautiful as it is functional.

“AS GOOD AS A GUN CAN BE MADE”Westley Richards & Co. has spent more than 200 years perfecting its trade of handmade shotguns and rifles, each one custom-built by a team of highly skilled crafts-men in the English Midlands. Westley Richards also

makes equipment and leather accessories with the same precision and history, offering a seamless experience for sportsmen.

THE WORKSThe Lion features some of the best components a rifle can have. It is a sidelock double rifle action with two trig-gers, .470 nitro express caliber 24 inch chopper lump barrels, a leather covered recoil pad, and a number of other decorative and practical pieces. Weighing in at 10.5 pounds, this gun is meant for use by only the most expe-rienced marksman.

WESTLEY RICHARDS & CO.

$225,000

+44 121 333 1900

westleyrichards.com


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184_FEATURES ALT.indd 86 23/04/2015 15:51

LeCoultre ladies pendant watch circa 1931

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Audemars Piguet’s Concept Watch Redefines What Is Possible in a Minute Repeater and Sets a New Bar for Acoustics.

History Repeating Itself


OPPOSITE: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept RD#1

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Sound has always been a challenge for watchmakers. Making the gongs loud enough to be heard was easier when the timepiece was a large pocket watch, because the volume of the case allowed for the resonance of the sound. Old pocket watches were not water resistant, so there were no accompanying gas-kets to muffle chimes.

Today’s wristwatches are much smaller in diameter and height than pocket watches, and are naturally muffled when they are on the wrist. Modern-day water resistance further dampens the sound, so watchmakers have challenged themselves to explore new designs, new materials and new ways of creating the perfect six tones.

Audemars Piguet has been making minute repeaters since the company was founded in 1848. Its effort to re-establish the minute repeater as a legiti-mate timepiece with modern relevance includes a concept watch project begun eight years ago to refine and create the perfect sound.

This year, in January, Audemars Piguet introduced the fruits of its labor with the Royal Oak Concept RD#1.

FINDING A NEW WAY

The RD#1 study considered the entire timepiece—including the hammers, gongs and case—to be a musical instrument; the movement was the musician and the watchmaker the conductor.

“Generally, when we did minute repeaters, we always built the case in a very traditional way,” explains Claudio Cavaliere, a global brand ambassador for Audemars Piguet who formerly worked in product development for the company. “One person worked on the case, someone else worked on the movement, then we assembled it and tuned the chiming, and we got a good level of performance. For the Concept, we did it the other way around. We decided to approach it as a stringed musical instrument that would produce tones that would be well-received by the brain. We built a watch that transmitted the sound like a stringed instrument—the string vibrates and makes the whole case vibrate, and that’s the idea behind our project.”

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Historically, minute repeaters were developed to mimic the sounds of the church clocks that

chimed the time all across Europe. Having time on demand came in handy in the middle of the

night, in a time when there was no electricity to light lamps and candles were snuffed at bedtime.

A minute repeater timepiece was a true status symbol, not to mention an amazing feat of

mechanical engineering.


Detail of the crown of the Concept RD#1

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“We decided to approach the RD#1 as a stringed musical instrument that would produce tones that

would be well-received by the brain.” —Claudio Cavaliere

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The Concept RD#1 project was done in cooperation with the EPFL (Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne), the leading polytechnical school in Swit-zerland. One of the key targets was to find a way to objectify the sound, to ensure that the sound of the minute repeater was the most beautiful and har-monious every time. In the past—and still in many companies today—one expert was the sole arbiter of whether the sound was perfect. Audemars Piguet was determined to take the guesswork out of it.

“100 years ago, people were making such beautiful sounds with minute repeaters, but they were not able to measure what objectively was pleasant for the brain,” says Cavaliere. “We wanted to understand the factors that make the sound well perceived by humans. As a result of our research, we can now set these targets and we can test the sound objectively. We can give a tool now to our watchmakers who are tuning the minute repeater to meet those targets. We wanted to get back to the beautiful sound of minute repeaters from 100 years ago, but in today’s conditions. Our targets were the purity of the sound, the pitch, harmony, the tone; the volume and intensity of the sound was not the main target.”

The Royal Oak Concept RD#1 that was introduced in January of this year had two working prototypes and the sound was glorious—easily 10 times louder than modern minute repeaters, and evocative of the best minute repeaters of all time.

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The new RD#1 reimagines the traditional minute repeater

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NOT FOR SALE

As it is a pure concept watch, the Royal Oak Concept RD#1 is not in the Aude-mars Piguet collection—yet. The idea was to succeed first, and succeed they did, with two beautiful-sounding prototypes presented at the 2015 SIHH. Now comes the challenge of integrating what they have learned and discovered during the project into the collection.

“Minute repeaters are a key part of the DNA and tradition of the brand,” says Tim Sayler, the brand’s chief marketing officer. “The majority of our early watches were minute repeaters, and we have never stopped making minute re-peaters. We took this very traditional field of minute repeaters and know how, but really pushed it forward. Striking mechanisms are really only for the highest few manufactures, so it was important for us to work hard and long to come up with something that is truly innovative.”

The Concept RD#1 underscores Audemars Piguet’s combination of tradi-tional watchmaking and emphasis on innovation, a mixture that helps the brand stand out in high watchmaking.

“The Concept RD#1 helps us in the broader strategy because our brand has been working on its consistency for the last five years, and now we are focusing on product development,” says Xavier Nolot, the CEO of Audemars Piguet North America. “The Royal Oak Concept RD#1 watch helps us deliver a message about innovation that is still attached to our roots and tradition.”

“We do everything today based on our craftsmanship from 140 years ago, but at the same time we want to be innovative and forward thinking,” he contin-ues. “A new minute repeater respects the tradition of watchmaking, but at the same time coming up with a concept that chimes so loud and with such purity, speaks to our innovative spirit.”

Audemars Piguet’s new Royal Oak Concept RD#1 is the message bearer, aimed at watch lovers all over the world, and the message is that the brand offers the best of both worlds—high watchmaking and high technology.

Message received.Clear as a bell.

audemarspiguet.com


To Infinityand Beyond


Talking the Future of Watch Design with Today’s Pioneers.

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OPPOSITE: The Devon Tread 1 Exoskeleton


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The MB&F Legacy Machine No. 1

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MAX BUSSER, FOUNDER, MB&F

I actually do not know my inspiration when I create. Often only when the piece is com-pletely designed do I understand where it came from. MB&F is as much my autobi-ography as my psychotherapy.

I have an idea, and I sketch till I am happy with the concept and general look. Then we sit down with Serge Kriknoff, my partner in the company who is in charge of technology and production, and with Eric Giroud, the super-talented indepen-dent designer I have worked with since the beginning. We transform the concept sketch into a beautiful 3-D reality. Only then do we approach the engineers and developers to find a way to make it come to life. This is followed by 12 to 18 months of R&D and engineering, then prototyping and pre-series. The first production piece will usually be delivered three to four years after the sketch. I’m not a very patient person, but it is a very long process.

JASON WILBUR, WILBUR CO. (DESIGNER OF THE ORIGINAL

DEVON AND OTHERS)

I have always viewed my work with watches (as I do the world around me) as a fresh

opportunity for artistic expression, emo-tional value, a new chance to challenge myself creatively and to challenge conven-tion. My creations are sculpture and the subject just happens to be time. Just like with a blank canvas, I am only confined by the canvas itself and the limits of my own creativity.

My inspiration comes to me in dreams a lot. I’m often not aware of the source of things that come to me.

I like to avoid taking pen to paper too early in the process, as you can box your-self in. I sometimes spend months with an idea or two swirling around in my head until the concept starts to take shape. I stress about the concept and I talk about it a lot—it becomes all encompassing. Then, I spend a lot of time sketching and trying to stay as true to the concept as possible. I purposely do not think about manufac-turing feasibility or anything too technical at this point. I then take my sketches and create 3-D CAD—computer aided design—models of the concept watch. If I am told it is impossible, then I know I am heading in the right direction and we continue.

I think you will see a great variety of watches in 2025. Some will be pure modern art and sculpture pieces, and some will still be based in traditional methods and

execution. Overall, I think you will see more pure expression and extreme inter-pretations of watches.

STEPHEN FORSEY, CO-FOUNDER, GREUBEL FORSEY

Finalizing each new creation to completely satisfy our ideas, and living up to the Greu-bel Forsey standards, while at the same time maintaining and developing the right team for our adventure, is a challenge. We believe it is extremely important to safe-guard and preserve traditional watchmak-ing skills for future generations and raise awareness, or risk losing them forever. We are addressing this through our project

“Naissance d’une Montre.”In our first 10 years, we have created

seven fundamental inventions and have brought to life 17 separate developments of original calibers for our timepieces. We are constantly innovating, allowing our creativity to soar and placing no limits to it.

Robert Greubel and I are driven by our passion for excellence, always looking to reach unprecedented levels in creation, architecture, reliability, finishing and time-keeping precision. Our passion for fine watchmaking and our creative spirit is a

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Watches have changed dramatically over the centuries, evolving from tools that tell time into statements of personality and precious

style on the wrist. At the leading edge of watch design are a group of free-thinkers willing to push timepieces to their limits.

I spoke with the industry’s avant garde to discover their inspirations and their thoughts on what the watch of the future will look like.

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Detail of the back of the Greubel Forsey Quantième Perpetual à Equation

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source that leads us to explore new and uncharted territory. We constantly want to push beyond the boundaries of what is thought to be possible.

The creation process is particularly unique at Greubel Forsey, as our time-pieces are a means of expression. We seek to share and transmit a message or idea—beginning with initial sketches—and then allow this creative spirit free reign through-out the process to bring the finished time-piece to exactly where we want it to be.

In the development of our timepieces we spend between three to eight years in R&D before bringing a creation to life, so even though 2025 might seem far away we keep one eye in the future, taking steps forward to bring something new and dif-ferent to the watch industry.

GUILLAUME TETU, CO-FOUNDER, HAUTLENCE

Designing watches for us is about creating a special display, linking architecture and design standards on your wrist. So we look around with open eyes, to enjoy the world

as it is built, so we can see how we want to play in three dimensions with our time-keepers.

We always start with a brainstorming session on the way we want to display the time. From the beginning, it’s engineers, watchmakers and me, with sketches and drawings. After that we start to build the movement in 3-D, with CAD, and simulate everything. When we have the movement working, we will make prototypes and start to design the case. A watch is small, and for me the most important thing is that it be ergonomic, wearable and comfortable.

For traditional watches, we will con-tinue to invent mechanical poetry, respect-ing a long tradition of craftsmanship.

SCOTT DEVON, OWNER, DEVON WORKS

Inspiration can be found everywhere and in everything. The initial Tread 1 was in-spired by the use of conveyor belts from the industrial revolution, and our limited edition Steampunk by the cult design sub-genre of science fiction and fantasy. The

Exoskeleton was from an idea I had to re-verse the skeleton design of watches—and I was also inspired by how the contrasting ideas of the internal skeleton (endoskele-ton) of a human and the armor (exoskele-ton) of a crab or lobster.

I love it when our collectors tell us stories of their experiences with our watches. Most revolve around how they start a conversation—and by that I mean they constantly get stopped and asked to demonstrate how the Devon watch works. People are genuinely excited when they see the belts spin and move, and eventually land on the correct time.

I believe that one day there will be tech-nology that allows us to take a computer rendering and produce it with 3-D printing or something akin to that, in days not years. So the limitations on creativity will be solved and watch brands like Devon will lead the way in innovation, technology and design without the limitations of engineer-ing time and production. Truly an exciting future—and I don’t believe it will even take ten years!

BELOW: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor

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Ladies FirstBy Hyla Bauer

OPPOSITE: An Audemars Piguet Tutti Frutti high jewelry watch decorated with hand-carved gemstones, circa 1927

A Century of Iconic Timepiece Designs for the Fairer Sex.

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1910Vacheron Constantin pendant watch on a platinum chain features transparent and opaque enamels layered over a guilloche gold case with diamonds and cabochon em-erald accents.

1911Patek Philippe delicate wristwatch in gold with an art deco floral bezel and bracelet accented with diamonds.

1920Baume & Mercier “bagnoire” bracelet watch in white gold with flexible fine gold bracelet, diamond bezel and blue sapphire crown.

Vacheron Constantin jeweled watch set with diamonds and sapphires on a qua-druple strand pearl bracelet.

1925 – 1932Jaeger Duoplan watch, one of the first to feature diamonds set in steel, its movement’s parts were arranged on split levels for enhanced reliability and precision.

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1940Vacheron Constantin 1940s lady’s wristwatch 18k yellow gold, white gold, brilliant-cut diamonds, gilt dial, claw set diamonds.

1950sVacheron Constantin lady’s wristwatch 18K yellow gold, brilliant-cut rubies, brilliant-cut diamonds, 8/8 cut diamonds.

Vacheron Constantin high jewelry watch in yellow gold set with brilliant-cut dia-monds and hand-carved emeralds

1960sVacheron Constantinady’s wristwatch with rectangular dial and hand woven gold brace-let 18K yellow gold, gilt dial

1962Jaeger-LeCoultre ring watch in platinum, the dial lies under a cover of diamonds and sapphires.

1964Jaeger-LeCoultre Joaillerie 101 watch in white gold fully set with diamonds featuring the Calibre 101, the world’s smallest mechanical movement.

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1970Audemars Piguet Haute Couture watch, designed by Gerald Genta, features hand-carved green jade and diamond-set segments. The green jade dial and diamond-set hands helped propel this piece to win the Golden Rose award in 1971.

1970sLadys wristwatch in yellow gold with gilt dial. Made for the Swiss watch and Jewelry Exhibition of 1970.

1973Baume & Mercier Galaxie watch in white gold and diamonds – winner of the Golden Rose award in 1972.

1987Patek Philippe Flamme watch in rose gold, the first modern ladies collection by the brand, features a bracelet constructed of hand-crafted gold rings woven together to create a flame pattern.

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1990Vacheron Constantin Lady Kalla high jewelry watch features 108 emerald-cut diamonds set in white gold, its petite dial is accented with dauphine hands.

1994Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duetto watch with two dials indicating two time zones, with local time set to the front, and traveler reference time on the back.

2005Patek Philippe’s Annual Calendar for ladies marks a new era for complicated ladies wristwatches.

2015Audemars Piguet Diamond Punk one of a kind high jewelry cuff watch inspired by the punk era, with diamond and onyx set pyramid studs. Set with over 5,600 diamonds.

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SupernaturalPhotography by Jens Mortensen

Styled by Hyla Bauer

Mother Nature is the Only Rival for Modern Timepiece Design.


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Dior Huit Grand Bal Plisse watch in Stainless Steel (973) 376-7450, dior.com

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Bell & Ross BR 03-94 limited edition watch (786) 454-9739, bellross.com

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Hamilton Ventura Stainless steel watch (866) 382-2473 hamiltonwatch.com

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Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra watch in 18K gold and diamonds (212) 223-2693, vancleefarpels.com

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Vacheron Constantin 1972 Prestige watch in 18K gold (877) 701-1755, vacheron-constantin.com

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Ralph Lauren Stirrup Petite-Link steel watch with diamonds (888) 475-7674, ralphlauren.com

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de Grisogono Allegra watch in 18K gold (212) 439-4220, degrisogono.com

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Bulgari Serpenti watch in 18K gold, diamonds and enamel (800) 285-4274, bulgari.com


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OtherworldlyBy Keith W. Strandberg

A Space Rock on Your Wrist.

OPPOSITE: The 24-hour planetarium of the Astralis collectionBELOW: The Parmigiani Tonda Special Edition Meteorite

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ABOVE: The Louis Moinet Tourbillon Rosetta Stone BELOW: The Louis Moinet Astralis in midnight blue

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Louis Moinet is one of these companies, and the brand has been featuring the ce-lestial material for many years now. “We decided to use meteorite in our watches because of the historical link Louis Moinet had with astronomy: He was a member of the Astronomy Society in Paris and the inspiration for developing the first chrono-graph was astronomical observation,” says Jean-Marie Schaller, president of Louis Moinet. “We also use it because it is a nat-ural element enriching the design of our timepieces, as we use it in our Treasures of the World collection.”

SOURCING METEORITES

Meteorites are extremely rare. Only about 50 authenticated Mars meteorites and 100 moon meteorites have been found to-date. Meteorites are all very different from one another, and from any other material found on Earth—because they are truly out of this world.

Louis Moinet works with meteorite hunt-ers, always looking for the rarest and most

beautiful pieces to use in its watches. The most popular meteorites are those from the moon, perhaps because the moon is some-thing that people live with every day.

“For me, it was really emotional when I held this little piece of moon rock in my hand for the first time,” remembers Schaller. “I went outside, looked at the moon in the starry sky and thought, ‘Wow, this piece of the moon traveled 380,000 kilometers to reach my hand. It escaped the moon’s grav-ity, wandered in space and then became a shooting star and fell to Earth, ending up in a Louis Moinet tourbillon watch!”

WORKING WITH METEORITES

Creating a dial using meteorite is a very challenging process, made almost impos-sible by the material. According to Schaller, it all depends on the texture of the stone. “It can break or even crumble when it’s being cut,” he says. “All the work is done by one of the very few craftsmen who pos-sess the skills to cut the stone very slowly so it doesn’t crack. Then, the slices have to

be cut again into the final form, and then these are polished. Until the piece is fin-ished, the meteorite can break.”

Louis Moinet has used many meteorites in its watches, including the Rosetta Stone meteorite, considered the oldest fragment ever found, with an age of about 4.5 billion years (its official name is Sahara 99555).

Meteorites are quite expensive, currently costing more than the prices of gold, plati-num and diamond combined. “It could be the most expensive material on earth,” Schaller says. “I like the connection mete-orites have with the infinite world. They show us how small we really are in the uni-verse. Also, I love the mystery. Some carry inside them natural treasures—for instance, the Enstatite H3 contains nanodiamonds.”

Watches that use meteorites are not only visually stunning: They offer an opportunity to wear a space treasure on your wrist every day. Now that’s unique.

Meteorite has been used in watchmaking since the 1980s. It’s difficult to pin down when exactly the material was first used,

but today there are a handful of companies making limited edition timepieces with

meteorite dials.

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Diamonds are a Watch’s Best

FriendBy Keith W. Strandberg

OPPOSITE: The Harry Winston Premier Hypnotic Star Automatic 36 mmFOLLOWING PAGE: The Cartier Ballon Bleu Serti Vibrant

A Primer for Purchasing Diamond Timepieces.

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DIAMONDS ON WATCHES

Diamond watches are not just a trend anymore, but a category all unto themselves. Some watch companies have been doing diamond and jeweled watches for most of their history, while many others are new to the diamond game. Women’s watches with diamonds sell faster and better than the same watches without diamonds.

Men’s timepieces, too, are starting to be offered more often with diamond enhancements, though a men’s watch completely covered in diamonds is still the exception rather than the norm.

DIAMOND GRADING

If you are in the market for a diamond watch, here’s what you need to know in order to understand the kind of diamond you are buying.

There is an internationally accepted grading system for diamonds. Jerry Ehrenwald, G.G., A.S.A., president and CEO of the International Gemological Institute (IGI) explains: “Since the evolution and acceptance of the diamond industry of one internationally accepted system for diamond grading, there is a means for everyone to understand the quality of the diamond they are considering purchasing,” he says. “In order to know where a particular diamond is on this system, a certificate from an independent laboratory like IGI is required. Here at the Institute, we certify a diamond by issuing a document called the Diamond Grading Report.

Ehrenwald explains that there are four C’s of diamonds: the carat weight (objective measure), the cut (the shape, proportion, etc., which are somewhat subjective in evaluation), color (D, E and F mean the diamond is colorless) and clarity. “The grades for clarify are: FL is flawless, IF is internally flawless, VVS1 and 2 are very very small inclusions, not visible to the naked eye, VS1 and 2 are very small inclusions, again not visible to the naked eye, SI1, slight inclusions, not visible to the naked eye, and SI2, slight inclusions sometimes visible to the naked eye, depending on the cut, I1, I2 and I3 for imperfect, visible to the naked eye,” he continues.

Diamond grades are something reputable retailrs should know. “A retailer who is selling a diamond watch is should be able to to tell you the diamond’s grade. If he does not or is not able to declare the quality, then you can request an independent grading report from a credible laboratory. Any reputable dealer should be able to tell you specifics about the diamonds on the watch, using the four C’s,” Ehrenwald says.

IF. VVS 2. Melee. The Four Cs. D, E, F, G.

What do the above have in common? They’re all diamond terms. Buying diamonds with confidence includes asking informed questions, so let us take you through a crash

course in Diamond 101, dedicated to arming you with enough intel to make a good choice.

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DIAMOND GRADINGThe four C’s of diamonds:

CARATThe measure of weight of the diamond, not size. One Carat equals 0.2 grams or 0.007 ounce. The weight of the diamond and the price per carat determines the price of a diamond.

CUTMany gemologists consider this to be the most important characteristic of a diamond. Even if the diamond is huge and of high quality, if it is cut poorly it will have reduced brilliance.

COLORDiamonds with no color (D, E and F) are very rare and more expensive.

CLARITYHow few natural imperfections a diamond has.

FL: flawless.

IF: internally flawless.

VVS1: very very small inclusions, not visible to the naked eye.

VVS2: very very small inclusions, more or larger than VVS1, not visible to the naked eye.

VS1: very small inclusions, not visible to the naked eye.

VS2: very small inclusions, more or larger than VS1, not visible to the naked eye.

SI1: slight inclusions, not visible to the naked eye.

SI2: slight inclusions sometimes visible to the naked eye, depending on the cut.

I1, I2 and I3: imperfect, inclusions visible to the naked

eye to larger degrees ascending from 1 to 3.

BELOW: The Chopard Joaillerie L’Heure du DiamantOPPOSITE: The Richard Mille RM 51-02 Tourbillon Diamond Twister

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MELEE (PAVÉ) DIAMONDS

Many diamonds used on watches, however, are quite small in carat weight. Those that weigh .18 carats or less are called melee diamonds; these are often used in a pavé setting, and are often simply referred to as pavé stones. Like other diamonds, melee diamonds can either be full cut (58 facets) or single cut (16 facets), and the quality of the stones can vary widely. “If you are going to buy quality, ask for full cut, VS, F or G and say that you want matched, calibrated diamonds,” says Fred Cuellar, the president and CEO of Diamond Cutters International. Matched means that all the little diamonds have the exact same diameter.”

The selection and setting of the diamonds contributes greatly to the end cost of the watch. When the best companies create a diamond watch, much time is spent selecting the right sized diamonds that match in color; it may take many months to get enough matching diamonds to make the watch. Then, pieces are hand-set by skilled artisans, making each piece a work of art.

THE BOTTOM LINE

If you want the highest quality diamonds, be prepared to pay more. “Better quality diamonds are going to cost more money,” says Ehrenwald. “Anything in the SI1 quality or better is good for a watch, because the consumer can’t see the quality imperfections with his eyes.” Many brands, of course, set much higher quality standards than SI1—in fact, the top brands usually don’t go below VVS2, and some are even more stringent.

You shouldn’t, however, look at buying a diamond watch as a diamond investment. A diamond watch is an emotional purchase, not a hedge against the second coming of the Great Depression. Choose a diamond watch that will fit your taste and your budget, keeping the quality of diamonds in mind.

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@watchjournalFollow Watch Journal on Instagram and Facebook

follow_watch_journal.indd 1 21/04/2015 16:52

Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas watch

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Founded in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has a legendary history as a watchmaker and jeweler. The original jewelry store was opened by Mr. Charles Lewis Tiffany on lower Broadway in Manhattan, and by 1844 he started offering timepieces. Tiffany & Co. became the first Patek Philippe dealer in the United States (it is one of the brand’s top retailers to this day), and has a dedicated Patek Philippe boutique on the mezzanine level of its Fifth Avenue flagship.

Charles Lewis Tiffany became much more than a retailer, however, making his mark on watchmaking by producing (and selling) pocket watches in Geneva, Switzerland. Tif-fany & Co. even prompted the coining of the the phrase “New York minute” by unveiling the its large exterior clock held in the arms of Atlas above the store at 550 Broadway in 1853, which New Yorkers came to depend on for the correct time as they passed by.

This year, on April 2, Tiffany unveiled its new watch collection, including the CT60 honoring founder Charles Lewis Tiffany, heralding the brand’s return to the serious watch-making arena.

tiffany.com

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BELOW: The newly-completed 57th Street flagship in 1940

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1837Charles Lewis Tiffany opens the Tiffany & Co. retail store on

lower Broadway in Manhattan.

1844Tiffany & Co. begins selling watches.

1847Tiffany builds a four-story, state-of-the-art manufacture at

Geneva’s Place de Cornavin. Here, Tiffany met the increasing demand for gold pocket watches by creating advanced

movements that chimed the hour and quarter-hour; and produced diamond-encrusted lapel watches and timepieces

embellished with pastoral scenes in enamel, along with mythic figures, floral motifs and fine scrolls engraved in gold.

1853Tiffany unveils its famous Atlas clock, helping to coin the

phrase “New York minute,” above the store at 550 Broadway. The clock now graces the entrance of the company’s Fifth

Avenue flagship store.

1854Tiffany signs an agreement with watchmaker Patek Philippe to

become the brand’s first retailer in the United States. Tiffany & Co. remains a Patek Philippe retailer today at its

Fifth Avenue flagship.

1868The Tiffany Timer, a stopwatch, is introduced.

It is used for engineering and scientific purposes, as well as for sporting events.

1875Tiffany & Co. receives its first patent for watch improvements.

In later years, the company receives patents for advances in watch movements and hand settings. Renowned Tiffany gemologist George Kunz eventually patents a luminescent

green paint for numerals and hands.

1883With the advent of Standard Time in 1883, Tiffany performs the weekly regulation of over 400 clocks in the homes of its customers. This cements the company’s stellar reputation

for customer service.

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1876Tiffany is honored for its jeweled watches at the Philadelphia World’s Fair, beginning a series of honors at various World’s Fairs. A centerpiece of its winning exhibit at the 1889 Paris

World’s Fair is the American Wild Rose Lapel watch, a diamond and enamel creation by chief designer Paulding

Farnham. Tiffany also receives medals for watch cases and astronomical clocks at the 1893 Chicago Fair. Tiffany’s exhibit

at the 1939 New York World’s Fair features an astonishing array of elegant diamond and platinum cocktail watches, as well as timepieces in the striking “cocktail style” such as the Trapezoid wristwatch with tinted gold, geometric styling and ruby highlights. Interestingly, a Tiffany purse watch from the

period influenced the new Tiffany East West timepiece.

1920sInfluenced by Art Deco, Tiffany streamlines the wristwatch,

creating the ultimate accessory for flapper fashions.

1945US President Franklin Delano Roosevelt is given a

Tiffany & Co. watch as a birthday gift, which he then wears to the famous Yalta conference. The inscription on the caseback reads, “Franklin Delano Roosevelt, with loyalty, respect and affection.” The new CT60 collection is inspired by this watch.

1974Tiffany introduces an ultra-thin watch called “the thinnest

skeleton watch in existence.”

1983The Atlas watch is introduced as a tribute to Tiffany’s

great public clock. The watch is distinguished by its three-dimensional, diamond-cut Roman numerals.

1993The Streamerica watch is introduced, reflecting the gleaming forms and metallic surfaces of the 1930s American industrial

design movement.

2015Tiffany pays tribute to founder Charles Tiffany by introducing

the Tiffany CT60, a new pillar collection equipped with all Swiss-made movements. And its history comes full circle.

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Chapter

4

Guide

The Baume & Mercier Clifton automatic watch

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TH

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THE LIST Top Watch Retailers Across the Country

ARIZONA

E.D. MARSHALL JEWELERS

10261 N. Scottsdale Road

Scottsdale, AZ 85253

(480) 922-1968

Brands: Blancpain, Bremont,

Franck Muller, Louis Moinet,

Maurice Lacroix, Piaget.

TOURNEAU

7014 E. Camelback Road,

#1055

Scottsdale, AZ 85251

(480) 429-2304

Brands: Bell & Ross,

Bremont, Tudor.

CALIFORNIA

DAVID ORGELL

262 N. Rodeo Drive

Beverly Hills, CA 90210

(310) 273-6660

Brands: Baume & Mercier,

Girard-Perregaux, Jean-

Richard, Maurice Lacroix,

Perrelet, Ulysse Nardin.

GEARY'S

360 N. Rodeo Drive


(310) 887-4250

Brands: Patek Philippe,

Rolex.

WESTIME

254 N. Rodeo Drive


(310) 271-0000

8569 Sunset Boulevard


(310) 289-0808

Brands: Audemars Piguet,

Devon, Dior, Franck Muller,

Hermès, Ulysse Nardin.

TOPPER FINE JEWELERS

1315 Burlingame Avenue

Burlingame, CA 94010

(650) 347-2221

Brands: Ball, Ernst Benz,

Glashütte Original, Longines,

Omega, Zenith.

POLACHECK’S

JEWELERS

4719 Commons Way, #E

Calabasas, CA 91302

(818) 225-0600

Brands: Cartier, Chanel,

Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai,

Patek Philippe, Tudor.

CHATEL & CO JEWELERS

Lincoln Street between

Ocean & 7th Avenue

Carmel, CA 93921

(888) 524-2835

Brands: Bell & Ross, Hermès,


Richard Mille,

Zenith.

TOURNEAU

3333 S. Bristol Street,

#2603

Costa Mesa, CA 92626

(714) 966-1204


Devon, Frédérique Constant,

Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek

Philippe, Tudor.

BEN BRIDGE

1177 Glendale Galleria

Glendale, CA 91210

(818) 637-2511


Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier,

Panerai, Patek Philippe.

C.J. CHARLES

1135 Prospect St.

La Jolla, CA 92037

(858) 454-5390

Brands: A. Lange & Söhne,

Breguet, Cartier, IWC,

Jaeger-LeCoultre

WESTIME

1227 Prospect Street

La Jolla, CA 92037

(858) 459-2222


Devon, Girard-Perregaux,

Greubel Forsey, Louis

Moinet, Zenith.

FELDMAR WATCH CO.

9000 W. Pico

Boulevard

Los Angeles, CA 90035

(310) 274-8016

Brands: Blancpain, Breguet,

Bremont, Carl F. Bucherer,

Hermès, Omega.

MILANO BIJOU

928 S. Western Avenue,

#211


(213) 382-1700

Brands: Vacheron

Constantin, Jaeger-Le

Coultre, Franck Muller, IWC

TOURNEAU

Century City Shopping

Center.

10250 Santa Monica

Boulevard, #103


(310) 553-8463

Brand: Panerai.

TOURNEAU

Westfield Century City,

10250 Santa Monica

Boulevard, #103


(310) 553-8463

Brands: IWC, Baume &

Mercier.

WESTIME

3832 Cross Creek Road

Malibu, CA 90265

(310) 456-2555


Devon, Girard-Perregaux,

Greubel Forsey, Louis

Moinet, Zenith.

TRADITIONAL JEWELERS

817 Newport Center Drive

Newport Beach, CA 92660

(949) 721-9010


Baume & Mercier, Cartier,

Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek

Philippe, Rolex.

SHREVE & CO.

329 Stanford Shopping

Center

Palo Alto, CA 94304

(650) 327-2211

Brands: Corum, IWC,

Omega, Panerai, Patek

Philippe, Rolex.

BEN BRIDGE

7007 Friars Road #543

San Diego, CA 92108

(619) 291-7572

4505 La Jolla

Village Drive, #C-19

San Diego, CA 92122

(858) 453-9996



Panerai, Patek Philippe,.

TOURNEAU

7007 Friars Road, #358A

San Diego, CA 92108

(619) 296-8463

Brands: Cartier, Franck

Muller, Jaeger-LeCoultre,

Longines, Montblanc,

Panerai.

SHREVE & CO

200 Post Street

San Francisco, CA 94108

(415) 421-2600



Patek Philippe, Piaget,

Vacheron Constantin.

TOURNEAU

845 Market Street, #129

San Francisco, CA 94103

(415) 974-1846


Breitling, Cartier, Jaeger-

LeCoultre, TAG Heuer, Tudor

BRYANT & SONS

812 State Street

Santa Barbara, CA 93101

(805) 966-9187


Breitling, Cartier, Patek

Philippe

BEN BRIDGE

395 Santa Monica Place,

#132

Santa Monica, CA 90401

(310) 458-4550




COLORADO

HYDE PARK

3000 E. 1st Avenue, #243

Denver, CO 80206

(303) 333-4446



IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre.

OSTER JEWELERS

251 Steele Street, Cherry

Creek North

Denver, CO 80206

(303) 572-1111


Bell & Ross, Bremont, Carl

F. Bucherer, Dior, Ulysse

Nardin.

BETTERIDGE JEWELERS

141 E. Meadow Drive

Vail, CO 81657

(970) 790-6560

Brands: Bell & Ross, IWC,

Panerai, Patek Philippe,

Rolex, Tudor.

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CONNECTICUT

LUX BOND & GREEN

140 Glastonbury Boulevard

Glastonbury, CT 06033

(860) 659-8510

169 Greenwich Avenue

Greenwich, CT 06830

(203) 629-0900

Brands: Raymond Weil,

Rolex, TAG Heuer,

Victorinox Swiss Army.

BETTERIDGE JEWELERS


Greenwich, CT 06830

(203) 869-0124


Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre,


Ralph Lauren.

MANFREDI JEWELS


Greenwich, CT 06830

(203) 622-1414


Breguet, F.P.Journe, Franck

Muller, Richard Mille,


SHREVE, CRUMP & LOW


Greenwich, CT 06830

(800) 225-7088

Brands: Bremont, Nomos,

Piaget, TAG Heuer.

LUX BOND & GREEN

1 Mohegan Sun Boulevard

Uncasville, CT 06382

(860) 862-9900

Brands: Breitling, Cellini,

Montblanc, Rolex, TAG

Heuer.

LUX BOND & GREEN

46 La Salle Road

West Hartford, CT 06880

(860) 521-3015

136 Main Street

Westport, CT 06107

(203) 227-1300


Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer,

Tudor.

FLORIDA

KING JEWELERS

18265 Biscayne Boulevard

Aventura, FL 33160

(305) 935-4900

Brands: Bell & Ross, Breguet,

Carl F. Bucherer, Devon,

Jaeger-LeCoultre, Roger

Dubuis.

ALTIER JEWELERS

701 S. Federal Highway

Boca Raton, FL 33432

(561) 395-3462

Brands: Cartier, Linde

Werdelin, Patek Philippe.

LES BIJOUX

306 Plaza Real


(561) 361-2311



Roger Dubuis, Vacheron

Constantin, Van Cleef &

Arpels.

MAYOR'S JEWELERS

6000 Glades Road, #1119


(561) 368-6022

342 San Lorenzo Avenue,

#1000

Coral Gables, FL 33146

(305) 446-1233


Breitling, Dior, Patek

Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer.

7457 N. Kendall Drive

Miami, FL 33156

(305) 667-7517


Breitling, Panerai, Patek

Philippe, Rolex, Tudor.

4200 Conroy Road, #180

Orlando, FL 33431

(407) 363-5740

Brands: Frédérique Constant,

IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre,

Panerai, TAG Heuer, Tudor.

8001 S. Orange Blossom

Trail, #484

Orlando, FL 32809

(407) 859-3116

Brands: Breitling, Bulgari,

Cartier, Rolex, TAG Heuer,

Tudor.

140 University Town

Center Drive

Sarasota, FL 34243

(941) 893-1124

Brands: Breitling, Rolex,

TAG Heuer.

2223 N. West Shore

Boulevard, #165

Tampa, FL 33607

(813) 354-8080

Brands: Breitling, Bvlgari,

Cartier, Frédérique Constant,

IWC, Panerai, Tudor.

LEVINSON & CO. INC.

888 E. Las Olas Boulevard

Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301

(954) 462-8880

Brands: Bulgari, Franck

Muller, Hermès, Jaeger-

LeCoultre, Panerai, Roger

Dubuis.

YAMRON

5555 Tamiami Trail North,

Suite 11

Naples, FL 34108

(239) 592-7707

Brands: Breitling, Bugari,

Harry Winston, IWC, Patek

Philippe, Ulysse Nardin.

HAMILTON JEWELERS

215 Worth Avenue

Palm Beach, FL 33480

(561) 659-6788

Brands: Breguet, Bulgari,

Patek Philippe, Ralph Lauren

The Gardens Mall, 3101 PGA

Boulevard

Palm Beach Gardens,

FL 33410

(561) 775-3600


Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-

LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek

Philippe.

TOURNEAU

5494 Tamiami Trail North

Naples, FL 34108

(239) 591-1342


Frédérique Constant,

Longines, Rolex, TAG Heuer,

Tourneau.

320 San Lorenzo Avenue,

#1225

Coral Gables, FL 33146

(305) 448-6878


Bell & Ross, Cartier, Devon,

Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai.

19575 Biscayne Boulevard,

#567

Aventura, FL 33180

(305) 792-2298


Bell & Ross, Tudor.

9700 Collins

Avenue, #210

Bal Harbour, FL 33154

(305) 866-4312

Brands: Franck Muller,

Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor.

175 Worth Avenue

Palm Beach, FL 33480

(561) 832-8812

Brands: Breitling, Cartier,

Devon, Longines, Patek

Philippe, Rolex.

3111 PGA Boulevard

Palm Beach Gardens,

FL 33410

(561) 694-6028

Brands: Ball, Baume &

Mercier, Omega, TAG Heuer,

Tissot, Victorinox Swiss Army.

WESTON JEWELERS

1728 Main Street

Weston, FL 33326

(954) 389-7990


Cartier, Chopard, Dior,

Hublot, Montblanc.

GEORGIA

TOURNEAU

3393 Peachtree Road NE,

#3082

Atlanta, GA 30326

(404) 760-1883


Blancpain, Chopard,

IWC, Panerai, Vacheron

Constantin.

HAWAII

BEN BRIDGE JEWELER

1450 Ala Moana Boulevard,

#2212B

Honolulu, HI 96814

(808) 955-0177




TOURNEAU

2301 Kalakaua Avenue,

#101

Honolulu, HI 96815

(808) 922-4111

Brands: Blancpain, Devon,


Roger Dubuis, Vacheron

Constantin.

ILLINOIS

TOURNEAU

835 N. Michigan Avenue,

3rd Floor

Chicago, IL 60611

(312) 266-7600




TAG Heuer.

TRABERT & HOEFFER

111 E. Oak Street

Chicago, IL 60611

(312) 787-1654

Brands: Breguet, Cartier,

Franck Muller, Jaeger-

LeCoultre, Piaget, Vacheron

Constantin.

C. D. PEACOCK

Northbrook Court

Northbrook, IL 60062

(847) 564-8030

Oakbrook Center

Oakbrook, IL 60523

(630) 571-5355

Woodfield Mall

Schaumburg, IL 60173

(847) 619-6560

Old Orchard Center

Skokie, IL 60077

(847) 679-1837

Brands: Cartier, IWC, Panerai,

Patek Philippe, Rolex,

TAG Heuer.

KANSAS

TIVOL

4721 W. 119th Street

Overland Park,

KS 66209

(913) 345-0200


Cartier, David Yurman,


Rolex.

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MARYLAND

RADCLIFFE JEWELERS

1848 Reisterstown Road

Pikesville,

MD 21208

(410) 484-2900

Brands: Cartier, Chanel, IWC,



825 Dulaney

Valley Road, #196

Baltimore, MD 21204

(410) 321-6590


Hermès, IWC, TAG Heuer,

Tudor.

LILJENQUIST &

BECKSTEAD

7101 Democracy Boulevard,

#2325

Bethesda, MD 20817

(800) 719-1190



Omega, Patek Philippe.

MASSACHUSETTS

ROYAL JEWELERS

58 Main Street

Andover, MA 01810

(978) 475-3330


David Yurman, Panerai,

Piaget, TAG Heuer.

SHREVE,

CRUMP & LOW

39 Newbury Street

Boston, MA 02116

(617) 267-9100


Audemars Piguet, Blancpain,



232 Boylston Street

Chestnut Hill,

MA 02467

(800) 225-7088


Bell & Ross, IWC.

TOURNEAU

Copley Plaza, 100

Huntington Avenue, #D-13

Boston, MA 02116

(617) 267-8463

Burlington Mall, 75

Middlesex Turnpike, #1205

Burlington, MA 01803

(781) 272-8463



TAG Heuer, Tudor.

LUX BOND & GREEN

416 Boylston Street

Boston, MA 02116

(617) 266-4747

Brands: Cellini, Patek

Philippe, Rolex, Shinola, TAG

Heuer, Tudor.

60 Central Street

Wellesley, MA 02482

(781) 235-9119

Brands: Raymond Weil,

Rolex, Victorinox Swiss

Army.

MICHIGAN

DARAKJIAN JEWELERS

101 Willits Street

Birmingham, MI 48009

(888) 843-6659


Carl F. Bucherer, Devon,

Maurice Lacroix, Montblanc,

Ulysse Nardin.

TAPPER'S

27716 Novi Road

Novi, MI 48377

(248) 465-1800

6337 Orchard Lake Road

W. Bloomfield, MI 48322

(248) 932-7700

Brands: David Yurman,

Omega, Raymond Weil,

Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer.

2800 W. Big Beaver Road

Troy, MI 48084

(248) 649-2000

Brands: Breitling, IWC,

Panerai, Rolex, Shinola, TAG

Heuer.

MINNESOTA

BEN BRIDGE

136 West Market

Bloomington, MN 55425

(952) 814-9356




WIXON JEWELERS

9955 Lyndale Avenue South

Bloomington, MN 55420

(952) 881-8862



Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor.

MISSOURI

CLARKSON JEWELERS

1306-C Clarkson Clayton

Center

Ellisville, MO 63011

(636) 227-2006

Brands: Carl F. Bucherer,

Frédérique Constant, Patek

Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer,

Tudor.

TIVOL

220 Nicols Road

Kansas City, MO 64112

(816) 531-5800

Brands: Cartier, David

Yurman, Panerai, Patek

Philippe, TAG Heuer, Tudor.

NEVADA

BEN BRIDGE

1300 W. Sunset Road,

Space 2621

Henderson, NV 89014

(702) 456-8807




BELLUSSO

AT THE PALAZZO

3325 Las Vegas Boulevard

S., #1702

Las Vegas, NV 89109

(702) 650-2988


Blancpain, Breguet, Cartier,

IWC, Vacheron Constantin.

BEN BRIDGE

3200 S. Las Vegas Boulevard

#1490

Las Vegas, NV 89109

(702) 733-0003




HOROLOGIO

FINE WATCHES

3377 S. Las Vegas

Boulevard, #2265

Las Vegas, NV 89109

(702) 733-0016


Blancpain, Breitling, Franck

Muller, Omega, Ulysse

Nardin.

ROMAN TIMES JEWELERS

3500 Las Vegas Boulevard,

#D10A

Las Vegas, NV 89109

(702) 733-8687


Franck Muller, IWC, Jaeger-

LeCoultre, Roger Dubuis,

Ulysse Nardin.

TOURNEAU TIME DOME


#F-07

Las Vegas, NV 89109

(702) 732-8463

Brands: Bremont, Jaeger-

LeCoultre, Panerai, TAG

Heuer, Tudor, Vacheron

Constantin.

WYNN LAS VEGAS


Las Vegas, NV 89109

(702) 770-3520

Brands: Bovet, Breguet,

Carl F. Bucherer, Panerai,

Patek Philippe, Vacheron

Constantin.

NEW JERSEY

THE TIMEPIECE

COLLECTION

58 East Palisade Avenue

Englewood, NJ 07631

(201) 894-1825


Girard-Perregaux, Harry

Winston, Hermès, Omega,

TAG Heuer.

HAMILTON JEWELERS

92 Nassau Street

Princeton, NJ 08542

(609) 683-4200



Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer.

NEW YORK

LONDON JEWELERS

2 Main Street

East Hampton, NY 11937

(631) 329-3939



Franck Muller, Tudor.

TOURNEAU

630 Old Country Road,

#1100

Garden City,

NY 11530

(516) 873-0209


Cartier, Omega, Rolex, TAG

Heuer, Tudor.

LONDON JEWELERS

28 School Street

Glen Cove,

NY 11542

(516) 671-3154




180 Wheatley Plaza

Greenvale, NY 11548

(516) 621-8844




2046 Northern Boulevard

Manhasset, NY 10030

(516) 627-7475




CELLINI

509 Madison Avenue

New York, NY 10022

(212) 888-0505

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The Waldorf Astoria, 301

Park Avenue

New York, NY 10022

(212) 751-9824


Audemars Piguet, Bell &

Ross, Franck Muller, Girard-

Perregaux, Greubel Forsey,


Piaget, Ulysse Nardin,


TOURNEAU

The Walt Whitman Mall,

160 Walt Whitman Road,

#1055D

Huntington Station,

NY 11746

(631) 427-2649


Cartier, Omega, Rolex,

TAG Heuer, Tudor.

510 Madison Avenue

New York, NY 10022

(212) 758-5830


Bell & Ross, Franck Muller,

Tudor.

125 Westchester Avenue,

#2340A

White Plains,

NY 10601

(914) 397-2301

Brands: Ball, Breitling,

Cartier, Dior, Frédérique

Constant, Hamilton, Rolex,

TAG Heuer, Tissot, Tudor.

TOURNEAU

TIMEMACHINE

12 E. 57th Street

New York, NY 10022

(212) 758-7300


Mercier, Bell & Ross,

Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling,

Cartier, Devon, IWC, Jaeger-

LeCoultre, Patek Philippe,

Piaget, Rolex, Tudor,


WEMPE

700 Fifth Avenue

New York, NY 10019

(212) 397-9000


Audemars Piguet, Baume &

Mercier, Breguet, Breitling,

Cartier, Chopard, Glashütte

Original, IWC, Jaeger-

LeCoultre, Longines,

Montblanc, Panerai, Patek

Philippe, Roger Dubuis,

Rolex, TAG Heuer,


LONDON JEWELERS

47 Main Street

South Hampton, NY 11968

(631) 287-4499

Brands: Panerai.

NORTH CAROLINA

WINDSOR JEWELERS

6809-D Phillips Place Court

Charlotte, NC 28210

(704) 556-7747

Brands: Bell & Ross, Panerai,

Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG

Heuer, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin.

526 S. Stratford Road

Winston-Salem, NC 27103

(336) 721-1768

Brands: Bell & Ross, Panerai,

Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer,

Tudor, Ulysse Nardin.

OHIO

MANN, INC.

26300 Cedar Road

Beachwood, OH 44122

(216) 831-1119


Breguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre,

Panerai.

OREGON

BEN BRIDGE

Washington Square, 9518

SW Washington Square

Portland, OR 97223

(503) 603-1285




SHREVE & CO.

640 Southwest Broadway

Portland, OR 97205

(971) 295-5555



Longines, Panerai, Patek

Philippe.

PENNSYLVANIA

GOVBERG JEWELERS

65 St. James Place

Ardmore, PA 19003

(610) 664-1715


Baume & Mercier, Dior,

Panerai, Parmigiani, Patek

Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer,


1521 Walnut Street

Philadelphia,

PA 19102

(215) 546-6505


Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre,

Panerai, Patek Philippe, Piaget,


TOURNEAU

160 N. Gulph Road, #1078

King of Prussia, PA 19406

(610) 491-8801

Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier,

Blancpain, Jaeger-LeCoultre,

Panerai, Tudor.

TENNESSEE

KING JEWELERS

4121 Hillsboro Pike

Nashville, TN 37215

(615) 724-5464


IWC, Jaquet Droz, Rolex,

TAG Heuer.

TEXAS

TOURNEAU

Pentagon City, Fashion

Centre at Pentagon City,

1100 S. Hayes Street,

H03A Virginia, Arlington,

VA 22202

(703) 414-8463

Brands: TAG Heuer.

13350 N. Dallas Parkway,

#1205

Dallas, TX 75240

(972) 661-1503


Mercier, Bell & Ross, Bremont,

Devon, Frédérique Constant,

Hamilton.

5015 Westheimer Road,

#2310

(713) 871-8282

Houston, TX 77056



Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer,


15900 La Cantera Parkway,

#2275

San Antonio, TX 78256

(210) 694-5654

Brands: Cartier, Christian Dior,

Frédérique Constant, Maurice

Lacroix, Panerai, Tudor.

BEN BRIDGE

Barton Creek Square Mall,

2901 S. Capitol of TX

Highway, #J10A

Austin, TX 78746

(512) 329-9066




The Domain, 3401 Esperanza

Crossing, #106

Austin, TX 78758

(512) 491-8014




8687 N. Central Express,

#1456

Dallas, TX 75225

(214) 369-2277




7040 N. Mesa Street

El Paso, TX 79912

(915) 584-4700




303 Memorial City Mall, #708

Houston, TX 77024

(713) 935-9499




1096 Willowbrook Mall

Houston, TX 77070

(281) 894-5799




5135 W. Alabama street,

#7130 Houston, TX 77056

(713) 960-1998




ZADOK JEWELERS

1749 Post Oak Boulevard

Houston, TX 77056

(713) 960-8950

Brands: Breguet, Jaeger-

LeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget,

TAG Heuer, Vacheron

Constantin.

BACHENDORF'S

8400 Preston Road

Dallas, TX 75225

(214) 692-8400

Brands: Chanel, Chopard,

IWC, Montblanc, Omega,

TAG Heuer.

EISEMAN JEWELERS

8687 N. Central Express,

#514

Dallas, TX 75225

(214) 369-6100


Baume & Mercier, Cartier,

Hermès, Jaeger-LeCoultre,


VIRGINIA

LILJENQUIST

& BECKSTEAD JEWELERS

Tysons Galleria, 2001

International Drive

McLean, VA 22102

(703) 448-6731


Breguet, Cartier, Jaeger-

LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek

Philippe.

WASHINGTON

BEN BRIDGE

143 Bellevue Square

Bellevue, WA 98004

(425) 454-9927




1432 4th Avenue

Seattle, WA 98101

(206) 628-6800




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140

WATCH JOURNALB

IG (

GR

AN

D)

DA

TE

HO

RO

LO

GY

TE

RM

INO

LO

GY

AlarmAutomatic Movement

ChronographRattrapante Chronograph

Dual TimeEquation of Time

Flyback ChronographGMT

Annual CalendarPerpetual Calendar

Simple CalendarMinute RepeaterGrande Sonnerie

TourbillonMoon Phase

Power ReserveGrand Complication

Jumping HourWorld TimeEscapement

Balance WheelGear TrainTachymeterTelemeter

PulsometerBig Date

Retrograde DisplayRotor

Unidirectional Bezel

184_HOROLOGY.indd 140 23/04/2015 11:15

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WATCH JOURNALB

IG (G

RA

ND

) DA

TE

HO

RO

LO

GY

TE

RM

INO

LO

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Big (Grand) Date[\'big\] [\'dāt\]

A complication that allows for greater readability of the date at a glance. The oversized date display has been the hallmark of A. Lange & Sohne timepieces since its revival, and was present in the Lange 1 model that was introduced in 1994 to mark the return of the Saxon manufacture. The now-iconic display was inspired by the Five-Minute Clock in the Semper House in Dresden, Germany. The A. Lange & Sohne Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase also features a moonphase display and a power reserve indicator to keep track of the 72 hours between windings.

alange-soehne.com(646) 828-3150

184_HOROLOGY.indd 141 28/04/2015 18:22

“If you would just let me chime in here for a second—”

“That’s enough, Bob, you’re repeating yourself again.”

142

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184_HUMOR.indd 142 24/04/2015 15:58

184_ADS.indd 39 22/04/2015 14:23

THE HYPERSONIC CHRONOGRAPHThe BR-X1 is the perfect synthesis of Bell & Ross’s expertise in the world of aviation watches and master watchmaking: an instrument with an innovative design, produced in a limited edition

of only 250 pieces. Lightweight and resistant, the grade 5 titanium case of the BR-X1 is protected by a high-tech ceramic bezel with a rubber strap. Ergonomic and innovative, the push buttons allow the chronograph functions to be used easily and efficiently. Sophisticated and reliable, the skeleton chronograph movement of the BR-X1 is truly exceptional and combines haute horlogerie finishes with extreme lightness. Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 | www.bellross.com | Download the BR SCAN app to reveal exclusive content

BR-X1

AC-3687-BellRoss-WatchJournal-Spread-BRX1-Jan-2015.indd 1 22/01/2015 15:19:31 AC-3687-BellRoss-WatchJournal-Spread-BRX1-Jan-2015.indd 2 22/01/2015 15:20:30184_ADS.indd 38 15/04/2015 18:08

THE HYPERSONIC CHRONOGRAPHThe BR-X1 is the perfect synthesis of Bell & Ross’s expertise in the world of aviation watches and master watchmaking: an instrument with an innovative design, produced in a limited edition

of only 250 pieces. Lightweight and resistant, the grade 5 titanium case of the BR-X1 is protected by a high-tech ceramic bezel with a rubber strap. Ergonomic and innovative, the push buttons allow the chronograph functions to be used easily and efficiently. Sophisticated and reliable, the skeleton chronograph movement of the BR-X1 is truly exceptional and combines haute horlogerie finishes with extreme lightness. Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 | www.bellross.com | Download the BR SCAN app to reveal exclusive content

BR-X1

AC-3687-BellRoss-WatchJournal-Spread-BRX1-Jan-2015.indd 1 22/01/2015 15:19:31 AC-3687-BellRoss-WatchJournal-Spread-BRX1-Jan-2015.indd 2 22/01/2015 15:20:30184_ADS.indd 39 13/04/2015 19:38

Breguet, the innovator.Invention of the Breguet balance spring, 1795

The balance spring gives time rhythm and sets its rate – the key to a watch’s precision. With its many patented innovations, the Tradition 7047PT with fusee tourbillon pushes the limits of precision time-keeping by combining the accuracy of the Breguet balance-spring’s terminal curve, conceived in 1795, and the anti-magnetic properties of silicon. History is still being written ...

B R E G U E T B O U T I Q U E S – N E W Y O R K 6 4 6 6 9 2 - 6 4 6 9 – B E V E R L Y H I L L S 3 10 8 6 0 - 9 9 11

B A L H A R B O U R 3 0 5 8 6 6 - 10 6 1 – L A S V E G A S 7 0 2 7 3 3 - 74 3 5 – T O L L F R E E 8 7 7 - 4 0 3 - 8 1 6 2 – W W W. B R E G U E T . C O M

TSIL-WatchJournal_234x298.indd 4 06.03.15 16:12184_ADS.indd 41 13/04/2015 16:38

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Watch Journal May 2015

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