Gear

Once upon a time, before things got complicated, waterproofs were only that – waterproof and nothing else. You avoided putting them on for as long as

possible, because as you flogged your way uphill the condensation inevitably built up inside and you began to overheat. Neither had anywhere to escape to, so you began to stew in your own juice like a boil-in-the-bag meal. Then along came W.L. Gore with his fabric developed for astronauts and things started to change. Yes, these first-generation breathables were bug-ridden – an inability to handle our dirty, sweaty, whiney, money-back bodies was an obvious flaw, but things have moved on to the point where even first-time novices now begin hillwalking with some form of breathable rainwear.Firstly let’s debunk the biggest breathable myth; these fabrics can’t stop you from sweating, which is the body’s natural reaction to exertion, intended to cool the body. The layering system that we talk about is meant to progressively move the sweat (moisture) away from the skin, keeping you dry(ish!) and comfortable. This can only happen if you use wicking fabrics; any cotton-based garment will simply hold the sweat and render all your high-tech clothing useless. Obviously this process is impeded by things like rucksacks which will cause large damp patches – not the fabric’s fault at all.Next up – these fabrics don’t ‘breathe’. They transfer body moisture between their surfaces by means of pressure gradient. As you exercise, temperature and humidity build inside the jacket, driving the moisture through the fabric’s pores to the cooler outside surface where it evaporates. This evaporation is affected by various things, such as how clean the garment is, (always follow the care label), or if the outer face is soaking wet. The major factor which affects moisture transmission is HUMIDITY. If it’s warm and humid outside the jacket, this reduces the pressure gradient and the force which drives vapour to the outside. Moisture then starts to gather in the wicking layers and you feel damp or wet if the sweat can’t be moved fast enough. When this happens you need to stop, ventilate and drop

a layer.So what makes a breathable fabric waterproof? Well, that depends on what you actually consider waterproof. It’s possible to make a fabric with a weave tight enough to keep water out in all but the worst conditions; this can be improved by using chemical water repellents, so you can also reproof it when required. This is how garments such as Paramo, Furtech and Buffalo work, and because they’re simple and easy to care for, they can be recommended, their only drawback being they’re warmer and heavier than equivalent garments from other manufacturers. Truly breathable fabrics use either hydrophilic (water-loving) or microporous materials, either as a coating (i.e. Triplepoint) or a laminated film (i.e. Scantex). Bi-component materials are a combination of both (i.e. Gore-Tex). An explanation of how these fabrics work would fill the magazine, bore you to tears and leave you none the wiser. And where manufacturer’s performance claims are concerned, Disraeli’s dismissive ”Lies, damn lies and statistics” comes to mind. What do they all mean? Not much, since most figures quoted by manufacturers are the results of different tests and obviously enough each will quote the figures that show their fabric in the best possible light. But here’s my ‘Noddy’s Guide’ to the most common tests used. MVTR Moisture Vapour Transformation Rate measures how quickly the fabric moves moisture from the inner to outer surface – can be tested by different methods which obviously gives different results.

Hydrostatic Head Imagine a column of water measured in millimetres sitting on top of a swatch of fabric. The figure given is the largest amount of water the fabric will withstand. This gives a good measurement of waterproofing in a static situation such as sitting on a wet surface.

Waterproofs? Don’t Sweat It…..Staying dry is the easy part, says Andy Callan

RET A test developed by the Hohenstein Institute, a proving ground used by many of the big names in the fabric industry, the fabric is placed above a porous metal plate, this is then heated and water is channelled into it to simulate perspiration. The plate is kept at a constant temperature; as water vapour passes through both plate and fabric, it causes Evaporative Heat Loss and more energy is needed to keep the plate at the same temperature. RET is the measurement of the resistance to evaporative heat loss. The lower the RET value, the less resistance to moisture transfer and the higher the fabrics breathability. Sounds good so far, but Hohenstein also added a ‘real time’ side to their test by getting people to wear clothing with varying RET values and then work out on a treadmill. They gathered their comments, matched these to the RET values of the fabrics and came up with the Comfort Rating System below.

Range Performance0-6 Very good or extremely breathable. Comfortable at high activity rates.6-13 Good or breathable. Comfortable at moderate activity rates.13-20 Satisfactory or breathable. Uncomfortable at high activity rate.20-30 Unsatisfactory/slightly breathable. Moderate comfort at low activity rate.30+ Unsatisfactory/not breathable. Uncomfortable and short tolerance time.

Testers couldn’t notice differences between garments made with different fabrics within these ranges, so one made of a 13 RET fabric felt no different to another made of a 19 RET fabric. As such, this seems the best measure of breathability and it’s the one you should pay most heed to when checking out your next jacket. Have a look at the figures for a range of breathable fabrics at the following web address, www.shelby.fi/tips/breathability.pdf ; it makes very interesting reading……

Jacket FeaturesOnce you’ve made a decision regarding your preferred fabric it’s time to get down to the nitty gritty of what you need in your jacket. Here’s a quick guide to what to look for.

Hood: A proper mountain hood is essential; make sure it completely covers your head and can be closed over your throat and chin. If it’s oversized this won’t be a problem – that’s what the volume adjuster at the rear of the hood is for! My preference is to go for a hood that fits over a helmet if possible, not just from a mountaineering viewpoint - it also allows you use it for cycling etc.

Pockets: It goes without saying that pockets which are obscured by your sack’s hipbelt are at the very least annoying, so look for a minimum of 2 map-compatible pockets placed clear of this area. Inside pockets are handy for keeping gloves etc. dry and close to hand. Get into the habit of keeping car keys in the same place, whether in your rucksack or jacket; it saves loads of confusion and stress at the end of a long day.

Cut: Your jacket should be big enough to accommodate an extra layer underneath without being too baggy. In winter I always carry some form of insulated clothing (usually Primaloft); this can be pulled on over my waterproof if stopped for any length of time, saving the hassle and inevitable heat loss involved in removing the hard shell to put on an extra layer beneath. The jacket must also be long enough to reach the top of the thighs at very least.

Sleeves: These must allow for plenty of movement including reaching overhead, cuffs should be adjustable for ventilation or waterproofing depending on conditions.

Venting: At its simplest this can be just a matter of opening the main zip. But in inclement weather underarm ‘pit zips’ let heat escape without letting in too much rain or snow. Some jackets use mesh pockets to achieve the same result; this works well, but might allow water in at the vulnerable chest area.

Gear

Rab Latok 340/£275Designed with winter mountaineering in mind Rab’s Latok jacket is slightly shorter than some of the others tested so it won’t bunch up under a harness, but still long enough to cover your bum. It has 4 chest mounted external pockets and another 2 internal ones, these are ideal for stashing gloves or smaller items such as a mobile phone. The 4 outside pockets all have water resistant zips and are placed in the optimum position for access. None of these pockets are mesh lined so despite the fact that their zips don’t have storm flaps any water that does seep in through the zippers can’t get through to your inner layers. The pockets are all big enough to hold maps or guide books and the 2 “napoleon” pockets also house the waist drawcords. This is a clever idea which keeps the Latok’s front flat and neat so it doesn’t obscure your view of either what’s on your harness or more importantly, your feet! Made from 3-layer eVent fabric the Latok is both extremely waterproof and breathable, on top of which it’s also durable enough to take all the abuse that winter mountaineering entails. Why am I so sure? I’ve owned one of these for 2 years; a friend has his for the same length of time and both of us swear by these jackets. Yet another friend – a renowned cheapskate – went looking for one online but couldn’t find one so he ended up with the Latok Alpine jacket instead. This is made from the same fabric but a lighter jacket with only 2 outer pockets. Getting back to the Latok, some may quibble about its weight (648g men’s L) or slightly shorter cut, but they don’t understand what it’s aimed at. In focussing on the needs of the winter climber Rab have developed a brilliant jacket that really does it all, right across the broad mountaineering spectrum and now available in a women’s model.

Jacket Tests

Rab Drilium 200/£175Made from the same 3-layer Event fabric as its big brother the Latok, Rab’s Drilium is more of a multi-activity jacket weighing 375g for a men’s Large. A decent wire peaked and volume adjusting hood rolls away neatly into the collar but unlike some of the jackets tested it’s otherwise permanently attached so there are no weak spots. The Drilium has 2 map sized chest pockets with another smaller zipped pocket inside. All the Drilium’s zips are water resistant but have no external stormflap. This is common across the Rab range, they’ve obviously decided that easy access is more important than enhanced waterproofing and I agree with their approach, especially where “solid” rather than mesh-lined pockets are concerned. The eVent fabric is fairly bombproof and in my opinion probably the best available in terms of combining performance, user comfort and more importantly price! In summary, Rab’s Drilium jacket is an excellent option for somebody who doesn’t need the weight penalty that goes with a heavy” winter-ready” jacket but still wants a performance fabric and all the right features.

Berghaus Mera Peak 330/£240Those of us who’ve been around “a while” will recognise the name Mera Peak which was originally a 2-layer version of Berghaus’ Trango Extreme, a benchmark 3 layer Gore-tex mountaineering jacket from the nineties. Well the Mera Peak has returned, now the fabric is Performance Shell (previously known as XCR). Other features include 4 external pockets (2 chest, 2 hem), roll-away hood and pit zips for venting. It weighs 752g (men’s L) which is a bit of a drawback, probably due to the mesh liner common to all 2-layer garments. The hood is good, it can be worn over a helmet but its peak is stiffened rather than wired and the roll-away arrangement is a bit of a faff. Moving on to the pockets, both the “Napoleon” chest pockets are well placed but a bit tight for a folded map, the lower ones are just about out of the hipbelt line and are only for hand warming due to their vertical zips. The original Mera Peak had a fully waterproof double stormflap over the main zip; this has been replaced with a new-fangled water resistant zip and an internal flap, a neater but not as weatherproof combo. In summary the Mera Peak is a decent jacket with plenty of good features, but it’s relatively expensive for a 2-layer model.

Berghaus Cornice IA 215/£160Also available in a women’s version the Glissade, this is another 2-layer Gore-tex performance shell jacket but in a longer, walking style. As usual with 2-layer garments it has a mesh liner, this makes the Cornice more comfy but also adds some weight (730g, men’s L). The hood is reasonable, with a large slightly stiffened peak which can be rolled into the collar. It doesn’t move well with your head however and the chin guards tend to flap about if not secured properly. These faults are directly due to its roll-away design, something I’ve never really seen the need for it in the first place. This is a real shame because the Cornice is a classic design for hillwalking, its mid-thigh length means the 2 lower pockets stay hipbelt free and there’s a massive map-pocket under the stormflap at chest level. The newer Gore Pro Shell fabric would provide better performance than the Performance Shell used here but I think the Cornice’s price makes that a moot point, given it’s aimed at hillwalkers rather than mountaineers. By the way the IA in its name refers to the Cornices Inter Active zip, allowing you to use any compatibly zipped fleece as a liner in cold weather – handy for walking the dog but not great in the hills since it leaves a cold spot down your front. Apart from my concerns re its hood the Cornice/Glissade is a solid hillwalkers jacket and well worth it at this price.

Gear

Craghoppers Kiwi 210/£160.00Made from Gore-Tex 2-layer Performance Shell fabric, Craghoppers Kiwi jacket has a slightly longer (mid-thigh) cut than most of those tested. The Kiwi is primarily aimed at low level walkers who would stick to the valleys, taking in the odd hill now and then. Indeed if it weren’t for the subdued Gore-tex branding you could easily confuse it with a plethora of “everyday” jackets. It has a roll-away hood, 2 hip and one map pocket. The hood is fairly good with a wired peak and unlike some others tested, the chin guards are easily secured when not required. Again the longer cut means the 2 lower pockets aren’t restricted by a hipbelt, these pockets have microfleece linings so they’re a bit cosier too. This jacket is quite a loose fit so luckily Crags have added a waist drawcord to help control some of the excess fabric, which goes some way to explaining why it weighs a hefty 772g (men’s L). Again price is the Kiwis major plus point given that it’s a Gore-tex fabric, so it’s great value provided you’re not looking for an uber-technical jacket. I should also mention that the same is available in Craghoppers Aquadry fabric which is substantially cheaper but with a bit less performance.

Sprayway Nyx 240/£170Weighing in at a lightweight 576g (men’s L) Sprayway’s Nyx is a short-cut 2 layer Gore-tex performance shell jacket. Its hood has a wired peak and folds away neatly and quickly if desired, not something that can be said of many of the tuck-away designs tested. This hood is very good at its real job too; it provides plenty of protection and moves as you turn your head. The Nyx has 2 large waist level pockets and a similar inner pocket. These waist pockets will easily accommodate an OS map but are obscured by a hipbelt, you can still get your hands in but it’s a real nuisance. This is also quite a short jacket which makes it less than ideal for hillwalking purposes. Both of these points detract from its excellent hood and decent price.

Sprayway Kenmore 190/£130A very traditional jacket in appearance due to its canvas-like outer fabric, Sprayway’s Kenmore is again made from 2-layer Gore performance shell. The first thing you’ll notice when you put on the Kenmore is its weight, a hefty 952g (men’s L). Added to this is its bulk, it takes up a fair bit of space in a rucksack so this is obviously not aimed at hillwalkers but would excel as a dog walkers jacket. The zip-off hood is reasonable and it has 4 pockets – 2 waist, 1 map and 1 inner. Because of its length the outer pockets are well clear of the hipbelt zone. Overall, the Kenmore jacket is built to last but best suited to more sedentary pursuits.

Golite Tumalo 125/£125Described by Golite as “our lightest waterproof/breathable shell combines pack ability and fit with a durable 100% nylon face”, the Tumalo weighs a mere 288g (men’s L) and it’s made of Pertex Shield, a very breathable and waterproof fabric. You can scrunch it down into a very small ball that’ll fit neatly into either of its pockets. However these pockets are placed right in the hipbelt zone, which is annoying to say the least. Another gripe is the very basic hood; it’s a bit on the small side and doesn’t have any stiffening in the peak. Being so light, I’d have thought Golite might have tried to market the Tumalo as an Alpine shell, something that the poor hood and pockets firmly exclude.

Mammut Kiruna 266/£225Slightly longer in the body which is always a good start for a walker’s jacket, Mammut’s Kiruna is a 2-layer Gore Performance Shell jacket with masses of pockets 6 in total – 2 hip, 1 outer chest, 1 inner chest and 2 inner “stash” pockets. The hood is good but needs a wired peak and the left side hood drawcord finishes up under the main zip’s flap – exactly why escapes me. There is a volume adjuster tab on the back of the hood; this appears to be an afterthought as it does nothing and you adjust the hood’s volume via the aforementioned chin drawcords. The Kiruna is quite heavy at 772g for a man’s large size and the lower pockets lie right under a hipbelt which makes it less than ideal as a hillwalkers jacket.

Mammut Adrenaline 450/£380A super-tough mountaineering jacket made from 3-layer Gore Pro shell, the Adrenaline sports rubberised patches at the shoulders where most wear occurs. Thankfully the 2 main chest pockets are well out of the way of hipbelts and harnesses plus there are another 2 stash pockets and a zipped pocket inside. The main pockets are mesh lined; this is good for venting but might let some water in if you’re not careful enough. A helmet friendly hood can be easily cinched down and it moves with you as you turn your head. The main zip is of the water-resistant type and has small inner flap rather than a true stormflap but I didn’t find this a problem. The underarm pit zips have nice positive zip pullers, a good idea since these can be awkward to reach when wearing a rucksack. These features all combine to make the Adrenaline a top notch mountaineering jacket, expensive but well designed and hard wearing.

Golite Badlands Trinity 200/£160Made from Golite’s own 100% recycled Trinity fabric which has excellent test results for both breathability and waterproofing, the Badlands has 2 large hip pockets and 1 small chest pocket. It also has 2 long pit zips, these come up towards the chest area which makes them very easy to open/close and also helps you remember whether you’ve inadvertently left them open! The Trinity fabric is impressive with good performance figures and it also stretches for improved movement. I have a few gripes though, the pockets are in the wrong place vis–a-vis hipbelts and the hood has no wired peak (a common fault in American designs), both of which detract from an otherwise excellent jacket.

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Gear

Lowe Alpine Flash ?250/£200Having decided to return to Triplepoint Dynamic as their fabric of choice for their top jackets back in 2009, Lowe Alpine were on a safe bet since Triple point always had a loyal following. Many users reckoned it actually performed better than some of the other more expensive fabrics, especially in our typically wet conditions. The Flash is a technical mountaineering model, hence its short length and 2 large chest pockets. Lowe Alpine have always been good on hood design and this no exception, it moves with your head and is helmet compatible, it can also be rolled away when not needed. Unusually the main zip isn’t a water resistant type, traditionalists will be glad to see a double stormflap and this also applies to the pockets. Like I said the chest pockets are always easily accessible and they’re mesh lined for better ventilation, this may let some water in unlike other “solid” pockets. Lowe Alpine have taken to placing their pit zips on the back of the upper arm, it makes them easier to open but also easier to forget too! The Flash is a bit shorter than some other jackets tested so you may need to wear over trousers more often but that’s the only niggle I can find. Otherwise it’s a solid technical jacket which would be suited to most mountain activities and its brilliant value.

Outdoor Research Foray 190/£145This jacket uses Gore-Tex Paclite, the lightest of Gore’s fabrics, weighing only 574g for a men’s L. I have to say I’m not a Paclite fan, yes it’s light but it does show condensation on the inside face because it hasn’t got a scrim layer. Carrying a Paclite garment is always a bit of a dilemma - I’m always left thinking that I’ve got to carry it but hope to God I won’t have to wear it. Anyway back to the Foray, it has 2 large front pockets, a chest pocket and 2 inner pockets. The main pockets are hipbelt friendly and will take an OS map, while the front zip is water resistant with an inner flap. An unusual feature of the Foray is its full-length pit zips extending from waist to armpit, a great idea considering my earlier remarks re Paclite. The hood is well designed but really needs a proper wired peak. This flaw seems endemic to all US designs, when I enquired I was told that it’s due to their fondness for baseball caps…. If you can get over this glitch and reckon the weight advantage outweighs (no pun intended!) the breathability question then the Foray could be the jacket for you.

Outdoor Research Rampart 85/£65.00Made from their own Barrier fabric, the Outdoor Research Rampart is a no fuss minimalist design. When they say minimalist take them at their word, 2 hand pockets, waist-to-armpit pit zips and 1 small chest pocket and that’s your lot. The Barrier fabric scores well for waterproofing but it’s not great as regards breathability so the pit zips were used frequently. Again the hood is fairly basic but has no wired peak; it also has an air vent at the top which is unique to say the least. Having said all that the Rampart weighs only 380g (men’s L) and the price is ridiculous, once you’re not expecting too much as regards performance.

Regatta Descend II/Adrianna 100/£90Again made from an own-brand breathable fabric Regattas Descend II (ladies is Adrianna) scores well on the breathable/waterproof tests with its Isotex 10,000 fabric rated very breathable and very waterproof. It has a long list of features – pit zips, 5 pockets, 2 large chest, 2 inner, 1 map and a removable roll-away hood. There’s also a ski-pass type pocket on the left arm and the Descend is lined throughout. This lining does impose a weight penalty though; the Descend weighs 708g (size L). Last time I reviewed a Regatta waterproof I commented on the silly

map pocket placed low on the right hand side underneath the one-way main zip. Guess what? It’s the same here, makes you wonder what the designer was thinking. On top of that the hood doesn’t move well with the head and it has no wire stiffener. This is a shame because it mars what could be a good jacket for those on a tight budget.

Target Dry Pioneer 99/£85Famous for their Mac-in-a-sac line of cheap and cheerful waterproofs, Target Dry have made steady inroads into developing more technical waterproofs but with a constant eye on the price point. The pioneer is part of their extreme series, a classic length walker’s jacket with 2 large chest pockets, 1 inner pocket and volume adjustable hood. The fabric is rated as waterproof and breathable, slightly less than most of the others tested but still sufficient for most conditions. I especially liked the chest pockets Microfibre lining, really comfy and warm on cold days. These pockets are very long, extending downwards below the waist drawcord and straying into the hipbelt zone, but you can still access the upper parts easily. At this price you expect some faults; none of the drawcords can be adjusted with one hand and the hood needs a wired peak, small things that could be easily corrected. Another good idea would be to investigate some way of reducing its weight, maybe by changing the liner? Having said that the Pioneer ticks most of the boxes for a walker’s jacket and would make an ideal first buy for someone taking up walking or for those on a tight budget.

Prices are for guidance only

Regatta Lilyanna 65/£60Made with a lighter weight version of their Isotex fabric the Lilyanna is cut slightly longer to cover “vital areas”. Again it has a good list of features – 2 lower pockets, 1 zipped chest pocket, pit zips and most importantly the fabric has stretchy panels for improved movement and fit. The hood is similar to that of the Descend 11/Adrianna so the same comments apply but here the pockets also lie under the hipbelt zone. This firmly places the Lilyanna in the casual jacket category and best suited to low-level walks.