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Way of the Roses

The Way of the Roses is exhilarating rather thanexhausting, from the valleys of Lancashire through theDales of Yorkshire to the lovely, but little-visited Wolds.

An instant hit from its launch in 2010, it’s an unbeatable way tosee the best of Northern countryside without needing to besuper-fit. Morecambe’s seafront, Ripon Cathedral and YorkMinster might attract the photographers, but the delight of thisroute is really in little towns like Pateley Bridge and Settle, thetearooms of Clapham and the pubs of Appletreewick.

The National Cycle Network has several Northern coast-to-coastroutes, but this is the most accessible. For most people, it’scloser to home than the C2C or Hadrian’s Cycleway, so there’sless hassle with booking long train journeys. The hills aren’t toosteep, and since it passes through well-known tourist areas likethe Yorkshire Dales, there’s plenty of accommodation. 

How long does it take?

At 170 miles, most people will take three to five days over it. (Ifyou only have two days, consider cycling from Morecambe toYork alone.) 

West to east, as ever, is the most popular direction: there areonly two taxing climbs this way, and walking up the first is almostde rigeur. 

What sort of bike?

The route is almost entirely on quiet roads and tarmaced paths.The worst section, the notorious cobbled lane outside Austwick,has just been replaced with a new roadside path. There’s a veryshort unsurfaced section just east of York.

So whether you have a hybrid, a road bike, or something morerugged, you shouldn’t encounter any issues.

Is it signposted?

Yes; you’ll see a white rose/red rose combination on thetrademark blue signs. Don’t expect to simply follow a number asyou would with other Sustrans routes, though. The Way of theRoses is pieced together from several different NCN routes, andactually follows eight different route numbers along its course.

How do I get there?

There are frequent trains to each end of the route. Morecambeis on a branch line from Lancaster, but the two are sufficientlyclose together that you might just get the train to Lancaster andcycle – though you’ll retrace your steps when you set off. At theother end, Bridlington has half-hourly services back towardsDoncaster and Sheffield (hourly on Sundays.)

Booking is recommended, particularly if your outward journeywill take you on a Virgin service to Lancaster.

There aren’t many options for joining the route along the way:there are stations at Settle and York, and Driffield shortly beforeBridlington.

Is it suitable for a first-timer?

Yes. The climb out of Settle is tough, and again atAppletreewick. Other than that, though, it’s best described as‘undulating’ terrain – enough to feel like an achievement, butnever too much.

Do take extreme care on Greenhow Hill, the descent intoPateley Bridge. This is steep, twisting, and often potholed, andhas been the scene of several accidents, some fatal. If you’reuncomfortable cycling down it, there’s no shame in pushing.

Are there any route options?

Not yet. The Way of the Roses was conceived as a main routeand an optional ‘southern braid’, but the latter is far fromfinished. You can explore some of the excellent new pathsaround Harrogate and Wetherby that will eventually form part ofthat, but you’ll need to use your own initiative (or cycle.travel’sroute-planner) to find your way there.

That said, the National Cycle Network’s tentacles extend intomany parts of Yorkshire and the North-West; so if you have timeto spare, it’s easy to plan a few off-route diversions. In particular,take a look at the new routes around the Yorkshire Wolds, alovely area of the country whose quiet roads are too seldomvisited.

Morecambe to Settle

The place to stay in Morecambe is undoubtedly the stunning artdeco Midland Hotel, an astonishing outpost of the Railway Ageon the seafront. But if, like us, your budget doesn’t quite stretchthat far, choose from one of the many guesthouses in thispleasantly weathered seaside resort, and eat at the excellentPalatine pub.

Take a photo by the Way of the Roses sign on the promenadebefore setting off. The first seven miles are all easy railway path,crossing the River Lune in Lancaster on a splendid new cyclebridge. Note the Lancaster Canal passing overhead on a sturdyaqueduct.

The friendly little café at Caton marks the start of the countrylanes that characterise this route, often unfenced through lushpasture. There’s a few climbs as you dodge along the side of theLune Valley, but nothing too steep; the gently undulating ride upthe Wenning Valley from Wray, long a favourite road withcyclists, is greatly enjoyable.

It might be called the Way of the Roses, but only 19 miles of this170-mile route is in Lancashire. Clapham is a pretty YorkshireDales village, and a good tea-and-cake stop. There was once anotorious cobbled lane here, all tunnels and rocks, but the routehas sensibly been rerouted along a new cyclepath beside thebusy A65; those with suspension might still like to try their skillsat the original route.

The valley of the infant Ribble leads to Settle, best known for itsrailway to Carlisle but in itself a friendly, not-too-touristy town.Local supermarket legends Booths (like Waitrose, but northern)have an outlet here. Accommodation in Settle is a little pricierthan you’ll pay elsewhere, but it’s a good first-night stop if you’retaking the route over four days.

Settle to Ripon

Any coast-to-coast route is going to involve some hills. The goodnews is that the Way of the Roses is much kinder than, say, theC2C. But it’s still no pussycat – and the climbs start here.

The climb out of Settle is crazily steep… and cobbled. It’s alsopretty short; the main action is over in half a mile, so there’s noshame in pushing. You’re rewarded with the surprisingly remotescenery at the top, followed by a string of little villages over thesucceeding miles. The tiny narrow road out of Cracoe isparticularly enjoyable.

Burnsall and Appletreewick are good places to overnight ifyou’re tackling the route in three days, and enjoyable stops atany rate. Burnsall thrives on its riverside tea rooms, whileAppletreewick has two excellent pubs, camping and a‘mountain bike livery’.

There’s another tough climb up from Appletreewick toGreenhow Hill, but it’s the following descent where you have totake more care. The B-road down to Pateley Bridge is twisty,steep and often potholed. Take it carefully, especially in wetweather; there have been serious cycling accidents here.Ridden sensibly, it’s very enjoyable.

Pateley Bridge itself is a pleasant Dales town, a good place torefuel for the next climb – pretty much the last one for 60 miles.It leads to Brimham Rocks, a National Trust-owned playgroundof “weird and wonderful” rock formations, and a genuinelysurreal area to cycle through.

The National Trust figures again five miles further on, atFountains Abbey. This World Heritage Site is a stunningassembly of history: the Cistercian abbey, the landscapegardens, the medieval deer park. Best of all, you can cyclethrough the grounds, in a remarkably forward-thinking move bythe Trust – one which other stately home owners would do wellto emulate (yes, we mean you, Blenheim Palace). It makes afittingly grand approach to the cathedral city of Ripon.

Ripon to York

Had enough hills for now? No problem. The route is almostentirely flat between Ripon and York, following the Ure andOuse valley (one of those rivers that changes its name). Neithercity needs an introduction from us. Both are tourist hotspots,best known for their cathedral and minster respectively; and bothhave plenty to distract the touring cyclist for an afternoon ormore.

The Way of the Roses meanders down the valley along quietrural lanes, stopping in at Boroughbridge – less well knownthan Ripon, certainly, but worth a brief stop. It crosses the Ouseon the rickety Aldwark Toll Bridge, which is free for cyclists;motorists are charged a sky-high 40p. From here the roads get alittle busier, but still very tolerable except, perhaps, at school runtimes.

The route enters York on a tarmac cycle path across themeadows, neatly avoiding the city traffic. Then, instead ofcontinuing along the riverside, it diverts past York Minster ontoanother traffic-free route, the Foss Islands path. It’s a good routeall told, but you’ll miss out much of York if you simply follow it; solock your bike up by the Minster, and go for a stroll around town.

York to Bridlington

The easy riding continues through the flatlands of EastYorkshire, passing Stamford Bridge – site of the other 1066battle. The journey there involves an unsurfaced bridleway, butit’s easily rideable and avoids the busy A road running parallel.

Pocklington is a real find, an unspoilt market town with anendearing mix of architectural styles. It marks the beginnings ofthe Yorkshire Wolds, a superb cycling area that has somehowescaped the attention of most riders. The next ten miles of ridingare among the best on the whole route, tiny lanes nestling innarrow dales. There’s a small amount of climbing to do – we’restarting from just above sea level, after all – but it’s worth it.

After descending into Tibthorpe, a roundabout route takes theWay of the Roses into the proudly old-fashioned town ofDriffield – perhaps best known for its annual agricultural show.

From here, it’s quiet lanes all the way to Bridlington, with a shortoff-road interlude after Harpham. This area, particularly theRoman Road of Woldgate, is a frequent source of inspiration forpainter and Bridlington resident David Hockney.

Bridlington’s cheerful promenade, busy harbour and acres ofsand make for a terrific end to the route. Arrive on a summer dayand it’s the quintessential seaside resort, still with a touch of the1950s about it; even on an autumn evening it has an undeniableappeal. But be warned – people have been known to stare outto sea and think “hmmm, maybe my next challenge should bethe 4,000-mile North Sea Cycle Route”…

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