Every dollar helps!

These manuals are the culmination of more then 10 years of designand publication and formally sold for $10.00 each. With 54 different

manuals available, that’s a $540.00 value.

Now, due to the worldwide economic collapse, they are my gift to you.My hope is that you will enjoy these great little airplanes as much as I

have enjoyed designing them for you.

You may build as many planes as you like.Sell your planes, or give them away.

Tell ALL your airplane loving friends to come to the site and get asmany of the manuals as they like.

If you enjoy these planes, please help to ensure this site stays on-lineand these airplane manuals remain available for all to enjoy. Any

amount you donate is greatly appreciated.

May God bless you and keep you safe.

Thank You & Enjoy!Wayne

https://www.paypal.com/donate/?token=VRnp-lhMKsIzH8i8L-olCwdxIZyxTExQpmXI9tsDnUToCZpgGaQLaR5xvcqp17f-H1o_1W&country.x=US&locale.x=US

www.bcair.comCopyright © 2007 B. C. Air Originals

TOP SEC

RET

Step By Step Construction Plans.30 Pages With Over 100 Full Color Photos showing how to build the

Can be made frommost 16oz Beverage Cans.

Wingspan: 28”Length: 20”Height: 6”

Lockheed P-38

Lightning

Welcome to the B. C. Air Originals Squadron.

This booklet contains complete step by step instructions for building the B. C. AirOriginals Lockheed P-38 Lighnting . Before you start building your first plane itis suggested that you review the entire set of plan directions. Once you have pre-viewed the construction steps you should start collecting the cans that you want touse to make your first plane. These plans are designed to be used with any 16 oz.beverage can. Always use clean, unscratched and undented cans for the best lookingplanes.

Since the building of these planes requires the cutting of cans and the use of sharptools, CHILDREN SHOULD NEVER ATTEMPT THE CONSTRUCTION OFTHESE PLANES WITHOUT ADULT SUPERVISION AND GUIDANCE.CONSUMER ACCEPTS ALL RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY INJURY IN-CURRED IN THE BUILDING OF THESE PLANES.

It is not necessary to follow all the building steps in the order presented. Such as, ifyou want to make the Engine, or the Wheels first, you can do that and then set themaside until you need them. However, until you understand the construction of theseplanes, it may be easier to follow the steps in the order listed. Your very first stepshould be to make a copy of all the templates. All templates are drawn to scale.Using a sheet of mylar (Clear Plastic) will enable you to re-use your templates againand again. There is no limit to the number of planes you can build with these plans.

We, at B. C. Air Originals, will make every effort to assist you in answering anyquestions you may have about the construction of these planes. Please feel free tocontact us ANY TIME at command@bcairoriginals.com.

Thank you for your interest in the B. C. Air Originals and have FUN!

D. P. (Wayne) Mathis

When you print your manuals be sure that your printer is set on it’s MAXprinting area to ensure that all the templates print out to the correct size.The standard 12 oz Can, here in the US, measures 2 1/2" in diameter. If theCans you’re using to make your plane are smaller or larger, then here’swhat you do..... Measure the diameter of your Can and find what percent-age of 2 1/2" it is.... I.e. If your Can measures only 2 1/4" (in diameter)then 2 1/4" is = to 90% of 2 1/2" so you would print out all the templatesat 90% instead of at 100%. If your Can measures 3" (in diameter) then 3"is = to 120% of 2 1/2" so you would print out all of the templates at 120%.etc.Some of these models were originally designed in 1984. Since then thebuilding techniques of these planes has changed over time. I.e. many of theplanes no longer require the use of the wooden former “F-1 & F-2”. Wesimply glue the “B-2’s” onto the BACK (BOTTOM) of the Can “B-1” oruse corrugated cardboard in place of the wood. (See http://www.bcair.com/BT/nwf1.htm and http://www.bcair.com/BT/nf1.htm )Once you’ve reviewed your manual and you’re ready to start your firstplane, go here > http://www.bcair.com/BT/ < and look over the Builder’sTips. These are building tips sent in from builders all over the world. Theywill help you to make these planes easier and faster. Bookmark this page asit is NOT accessible from the main web site.You can obtain the plastic props used on these planes from yourlocal Hobby Shop or here’s where I get my props on-line > http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0091p?&C=QBC&V=MAS http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0097p?FVSEARCH=PROPELLERS+++&CATEGORY=QB&MANUFACTURER=TOP&submit=Submit+AdvancedSearch<Any 5-7" prop, with any pitch, will work on these planes.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0097p?FVSEARCH=PROPELLERS+++&CATEGORY=QB&MANUFACTURER=TOP&submit=Submit+AdvancedSearch

The following is a list of tools and materials I use to build these planes.You may find that you do not need all of the tools that I use.Use whatever works best for you.

Small hammer of some kind.Pliers.Flat head screw driver.Hand stapler.Snap (carpet) stapler.Push Pin.Hot glue gun.Awl (old screw driver sharpened to a point).Wire cutter.X-acto knife (hobby knife) (box opener).Scissors & Can Opener.Ruler (straight edge).Felt tip pen (any color).Needle nose pliers.Open end wrench (to fitwhatever size nuts you’ll use).Hand drill (1/4” works fine).Hole saw (2 different sizes - 2 3/4” & 1 5/8”).

Materials -

Aluminum Cans (beer, pop, soda, juice, etc) any 12 oz. size will work.Bottle caps.Corrugated Cardboard. Tape (any kind) & Glue (2-Part Epoxy works best).Mylar (Clear plastic).Copper Coated Welding Rod, Music Wire or any other straight wire .

(2 sizes - 1/16” & 3/32”)Hazel Nuts (Acorn Nuts, Cap Nuts, Toothpaste Caps).Screws, Nuts and Bolts.Wire clip (speed nut).

2

Using two hole saws (the larger one is 2 3/4” and the smaller one is 1 5/8”) cut twocircles from any kind of wood that is 3/4” thick. Soft Pine like that used to makewooden pallets works best. These two wooden circles will now become F-1 & F-2.

F-1 F-1F-2 F-2

Using a wood rasp (or similar tool) taper both F-1 & F-2 as shown above. The“Perfect” F-1 and F-2 would have the dimensions shown at right. But they don’thave to be perfect as long as F-1 DOES NOT EXCEED 2 1/2” in diameter. WorkF-1 down to a size (approx. a little less than 2 1/2” in diameter) that will allow it(once wrapped with can B-3 Step # 6 & # 7) to fit inside Can B-2 (Step # 13).

NOTE: You can also use a jigsaw or any other method at your disposalto obtain F-1 & F-2 as long as you end up with the same dimensions.

Cutting Cans

The building of these planes requires that both the Tops and/or Bottoms of beverage cansbe cut off. While you can decide for yourself which method you use to accomplish this,most builders use a Dremal® Tool in a fashion similar to that shown above. TheDremal® is secured to a board with the use of a hose clamp. Two guide rails are used tocradle the can. A cutting wheel is used to cut the Bottom of the can off first, and then theTop is cut off. Again, you can use any other method at your disposal to remove the Topsand Bottoms of the cans. Use whatever means you feel most comfortable with.

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The Taper is at 10°

Cutting CansThe building of these planes requires that the Tops and/or Bottoms of beverage cans becut off. While you can decide for yourself which method you use to accomplish this,most builders use a Dremal® Tool in a fashion similar to that shown below.

SEE ALL THE BUILDERS TIPS ON-LINE AT > www.bcair.com/BT

What I’ve done here is taken a piece ofboard wood (aprox 12” x 15” x 3/4”) and toit I’ve attached (screw or glue) Two Blocksof wood (2” x 2” x 5”) and Two Rails ofwood (1” x 1” x 10”)

Using a Hose Clamp, I’ve secured myDremal® Tool to the board. The twoguide rails are used to cradle the can.

A cutting wheel is used to cut theBottom and the Top off the Cans.

Again, you can use any other method at your disposal to remove the Tops and Bottoms ofthe cans. Use whatever means you feel most comfortable with.ALWAYS USE PROTECTIVE HAND & EYE GEAR WHEN CUTTING CANS!

In ALL cases, cutthe Bottom off theCan FIRST, thencut the Top off.Get as much of theCan as possible.

Another Way Of Cutting Cans

Once you’ve selected which Cans your plane will be made out of, take one Can and hold it firmly atit’s bottom. Using your wire snips, cut through the ring at the top of the Can.

Now grab the ring with your wire snips and PULL the top off the Can. The top will normally tare offright where the Can begins to taper inward to the ring.

Continue PULLING until the top of the Can comes off. Then cut down the side of the Can with yourscissors. Next use a smaller scissor to cut the bottom off the Can.

Use a straight edge, or a papercutter to trim the edges smooth.

Trim Can to 3 5/8” x 8 1/4”

SEE ALL THE BUILDERS TIPS ON-LINE AT > www.bcair.com/BT

Remove the Pull Tabs fromEighteen (18) Cans you’re goingto use to make your plane andcut the tops and bottoms off asshown here. Then using yourscissors, open them up bycutting the sides as shown here.

Take another Two (2) Cans and cut them 3 1/2” downfrom the top of the Can as shown here. These Two Canswill each become Engine Cowlings (EC). B-2’s

Using a Can opener, cut the topout of both Engine Cowlings(EC) B-2 AND Can B-1.

Take one of the Cans you’ve openedup, in Step # 1, and using Template # 1(next page) cut the pattern for B-4 outas shown here.

BE SURE TO MARK POINT “B” ONTHE CAN.

3 1/2”

STEP # 1

STEP # 2

STEP # 3

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Set these three Cans aside fornow, they will be used later.

B

A

B-4

EC

B-15”

Take another Can andcut it 5” down from thetop of the Can as shownhere. This Can willbecome B-1.

B-2

STEP # 4

B A

TEMPLATE # 1

B-4

F-2

F-2

F-2

B-4

B-4

Staple

Staple

Match up A & B

Match up A & B

Staple F-2 to theFront of B-4 asshown.

Wrap B-4around F-2 andstaple as shown.

STEP # 5

Use a strip of cleartapeto hold cone inshape.

B-4

B-4

TopView

TopView

Bottom View

Bottom View

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TEM

PLAT

E #

2

B-3

B-3

B-3

F-1

F-1

Bottom View

Top ViewSTEP # 6

Cut Template # 2 from one of the Cans that you opened up inStep # 1 and staple F-1 to the Front of B-3 as shown here.

STAPLE

STEP # 7 Wrap B-3 around F-2 (Attached to B-4) AND F-1 and staple as shown below.

B-3 B-4

B-4

F-1 Staple

Use a strip of clear tapeto hold cone in shape.

B-3

STEP # 8

.TEMPLATE # 3

. .

.. ..

Cut TWO VS Patterns (Template # 3) from oneof the Cans that you opened up in Step # 1.BE SURE TO TURN TEMPLATE OVER TOGET CORRESPONDING PATTERNS.Cut ONE VSCB Pattern (Template # 4) from apiece of corrugated cardboard.

VS

VSCB

VS VSVSCB

TEMPLATE # 4

Score LinesDO NOT CUT

C D E

Holes C, D, & Eare 3/32”

Bottom View

Top View

STEP # 9

. .

. .

Take a piece of 3/32” Rod 18” long and put a “Hook” at one end. This will become theProp Shaft (PS). Insert the “Hook” through Hole “E” in the VSCB and then insert the rodthrough the back end of the VS as shown.

VSCBE

VS

VS

VS

Shape the Tail Cone portion of theVS along the Two Score lines asshown. Then match up the Two VSPatterns and Staple in the TWOFORWARD places shown.

Tail Cone

Staple

Staples

Staples

StaplesStaple

STEP # 10

VS

F-1

B-3 B-4

B-4

B-3

Draw the VSCB into the Two VS Patterns and staple as shown below.

Insert the PS into the back end of B-4, through the PilotHole in F-2, and out through the Pilot Hole in F-1.

PS

PS

PS

F-1

Draw VS up over the Back of B-4 and hold the Tail Cone Shapein place by wrapping a piece of Clear Tape around it.

Hold VS in place, against B-4, byplacing a “Wire Clip” (WC) on thePS and drawing it tight up against F-1as shown.

VS

B-4

WC

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STEP # 11

Take Eight (8) Bottle Capsand put a 3/32” hole in thecenter of each as shown.

Then epoxy the eight capstogether as shown. Besure that the holes line upand are un-obstructed.

Next stack and epoxy Six (6) Pull Tabs on top of each other,holding them in place with a thin strip of tape until the epoxydries. Make SIX Stacks of SIX Pull Tabs.

This will become the EngineCrank Case (ECC)

These will become theEngine Cylinders (EC).

Next epoxy Three Stacks of EC on each side of theECC as shown. This is your completed Engine.

Make TWO Engines.

STEP # 12

Using your Needle Nose Pliers, hold the PS where theWC meets F-1 and using your fingers, bend the PSstraight up as shown.

Still using yourNeedle Nose Pliers,again hold the PSat the point whereyou just made thebend and againusing your fingers, bend the PS back to the Horizontalposition as shown to the left.

The PS should looklike this when done.

F-1

F-1

F-1

WCNow slide the Engineonto the PS.

STEP # 13 Take Can B-2 (EC) from Step # 2 and using your fingers, shape it into an ovalby pulling at two opposite ends as shown.

Slide B-2 (EC) overthe engine and secureit to B-3 with THREEStaples into F-1.

B-2

B-3Staple

Staples

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STEP # 14 REPEAT STEPS 3 THROUGH 13.You will need TWO Engine Booms for this plane.

STEP # 15 On EACH Engine Boom, draw a line down the TOP Center as shown here.

STEP # 16 Make 3/32” Holes A & B on each boom where indicated below.

Right Boom Left Boom

. . . .

. . . .

3” 3” 3 1/8”3 1/8”

6 1/2” 6 1/2”6 3/8” 6 3/8”1”

3/4”3/4”

1” 1” 1”

3/4”3/4”

INSIDE HOLE “A” INSIDE HOLE “A”

INSIDE HOLE “B” INSIDE HOLE “B”OUTSIDE HOLE “B” OUTSIDE HOLE “B”

OUTSIDEHOLE “A”

OUTSIDEHOLE “A”

B-2 B-3F-1

.Outside Hole “A” is just Forward of F-1

B-2B-2

B-3 B-3

B-2B-3

F-1

.

Outside Hole “A” is just Forward of F-1 Note: Make Outside Hole“A” FIRST. If the 3 1/8”mark hits F-1 then movethe hole position FOR-WARD to a point whereit will clear F-1. MoveALL other hole positionsFORWARD the SAMEamount that you movedOutside Hole “A”.

B-2 B-3 B-4 VS

STEP # 17 Take ONE pieces of 3/32” Rod 24” long and bend it as shown below.

2”This will become the Leading Edge Wing Spar (LEWS)

Take ANOTHER pieces of 3/32” Rod 24” long and bend it as shown below.

3”This will become the Trailing Edge Wing Spar (TEWS)

12”12”

STEP # 18

Inside Hole “A”

Inside Hole “B”

Outside Hole “A”

Outside Hole “B”Outside Hole “B”

Outside Hole “A”

TEWS

LEWSB-2 B-2

B-3 B-3

B-4 B-4

Right Boom Left Boom

Insert the LEWS through Holes “A” in BOTH Booms as shown below.

Insert the TEWS through Holes “B” in BOTH Booms as shown below.

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STEP # 19

FRONT

FRONT

B-2 B-2

B-3 B-3

TEMPLATE # 5

MWCB

MWCB

SCO

RE L

INE

- DO

NO

T CU

T

LEWS

TEWS

Cut Template # 5 (MWCB) from one of the Cans that you opened up inStep # 1 and tape it the the LEWS and TEWS as shown below.

Glue or Tape a piece of cardboard 7” long by 1 1/2” tothe TOP of OWCB as shown here. This will be theOuter Wing Air Foil (OWAF). REPEAT ON LEFT SIDE OF PLANE.

STEP # 20

TEM

PLAT

E #

6O

WC

B

OWCB

OWCB

MWCB

MWAF MWAF

OWAF

Tape or glue TWO piecesof cardboard 1 1/2” x 3”onto the Leading Edge ofMWCB as shown. Thesewill be the Mid Wing AirFoils (MWAF).

STEP # 21Cut Template # 6 from a piece of cardboard and tape it to theOUTSIDE of LEWSand TEWS as shownhere. REPEAT ON LEFT SIDE OF PLANE.

LEWS

TEWS

TEWS

LEWS

STEP # 22

Your Plane should now look similar to this.

MWAF MWAF

MWCB OWCBOWCBOWAFOWAF

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STEP # 23

UNDER SIDE MWCBPlace THREE strips of Double Sided Tapeon the UNDER SIDE of MWCB as shown.

STEP # 24

Cover the UNDER SIDE of MWCB with Cans that youopened up in Step # 1. (You can use ONE or TWO Cansto accomplish this). If you use TWO Cans you can marrythem together like this.

CanCellophane TapeDouble-Sided Tape

Place TWO strips of Double Sided Tapeon the TOP SIDE of MWAF as shown.

MWAF MWAF

Cover the TOP SIDE of MWCB & MWAF with Cansthat you opened up in Step # 1. (You can use ONE orTWO Cans to accomplish this). If you use TWO Cansyou can marry them together as you did in Step # 22.

MWAF

MWCB

MWCB

STAPLESSTAPLES

LEWS

TOP CANS

BOTTOMCANS

NOTE: TOPCans OVERLAPBottom Cans byapprox 1/4”

STEP # 25

STEP # 26

STEP # 27

STEP # 28

OWCB

OWCBOWAF

LEWS

LEWS

TEWS

TEWS

Trim the Outer ends of OWCB as shown and place TWOstrips of Double-Sided Tapeon the UNDERSIDE as shown to the Left.

(Underside of Outer Wing Right Side)

(Topside of Outer Wing Right Side)

Stick one of the Cans that you opened up in Step # 1 tothe UNDERSIDE of the wing as shown.

Place ONE strip of Double-Sided Tapeon TOP of OWAF as shown.

Cover the TOP of the wing with one Can, wrapping theleading edge around the LEWS by 1/4” and staple asshown. REPEAT ON OUTER SIDE OF LEFT WING.Trim entire wing to desired shape.

STAPLES STAPLESSTAPLES

LEWS

TOP CAN

NOTE: TOP CanOVERLAP BottomCan by approx 1/4”

BOTTOM CAN

HSCB

HSLES

HSTES

Take ONE piece of 1/16” Rod (HSLES) 10”long and insert it through Holes “C” in VS.Tape a 2” x 8 1/4” piece of cardboard(HSCB) to it as shown. Take ANOTHERpiece of 1/16” Rod (HSTES) 10” long andinsert it through Holes “D” in VS ANDTHROUGH HSCB as shown.

Hole CHole C

HSLES

HSTES

VSVS Hole D Hole D

HSCBVS Insert a piece of cardboard 1/2” wide by 2” long to

the outer ends of HSTES and tape it to the HSLESas shown.

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STEP # 29

wrap HSCB with One Can from Step # 1 asshown here. Use Can pieces to cover theOuter Ends of HSCB and staple whereshown.

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HSCB12345678123456781234567812345678123456781234567812345678

HSLES HSTES

NOTE: TOP of Can OVERLAPSBottom of Can by approx 1/4”

Put Double-sided tape on BOTH sides ofHSCB (including the OUTER ENDS) and

STAPLE STAPLE

ONE CAN

Trim to desired shape.

STEP # 30

CPCB

CPCB

CPCB

CPF1

CPF2

CPF3

CPF4

Cut CPCB, CPF1, CPF2, CPF3, & CPF4 (NEXTPAGE) from corrugated cardboard.

Center CPCB in positionon the Mid Wing asshown.

STEP # 31

STEP # 32

To anchor CPCB in place, takea piece of 3/32” Rod and insertit through CPCB and the MidWing as shown. Cut off excess Rod.

Cut Off

Cut Off

STEP # 33

CPCB

CPCB

CPF1

CPF2

CPF3

CPF4 CPF4

CPF2

CPF1

Epoxy CPF1, CPF2,CPF3 & CPF4 intotheir perspectivepositions as shownhere.

Some trimmingmay be required.

CPF1

CPC

B<---

Cor

ruga

tion

Run

s --->

CPF2

CPF3

CPF4

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STEP # 34

RC

RC

RC

RC

RC

Cut TWO RC Patterns fromCans you opened up in Step # 1.Epoxy One RC into position on

the UNDERSIDE ofthe Mid-Wingas shown.

TRIM TO FIT.

STEP # 35Cut TWO MC Patterns

from Cans you opened up inStep # 1. Epoxy One MC MC

MC

MC

into position on the UNDERSIDEof the Mid-Wing as shown.

UNDERSIDE OF WING

TOPSIDE OF WING

STEP # 36

Epoxy One RC into it’sposition on the TOPSIDEof the Mid-Wing as shown.

TRIM TO FIT.

TRIM TO FIT.

STEP # 37

Epoxy One MC into it’sposition on the TOPSIDEof the Mid-Wing as shown.

TRIM TO FIT.

NOTE: Be sure to tuenthis MC over so that theINSIDE of the Can isfacing UP as shown.

STEP # 38

CPCB Take a piece of corrugated cardboard1 1/2” x 4 1/2” and epoxy it to theBottom of CPCB as shown.

STEP # 39

Take Can B-1 (From Step # 2) and shapeit as shown here.

1 1/2”

STEP # 40

Slide Can B-1 onto CPCB and apply epoxy onthe INSIDE of B-1 where CPCB and Can B-1touch.

B-1Epoxy

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STEP # 41

TRIM TO FIT.

TRIM TO FIT.

FWS

RWS

FWS

RWS

MC

MC

RC

STEP # 42

STEP # 43

Cut FWS from one of theCans from Step # 1 andepoxy it into place asshown.

Cut RWS from one of the Cansfrom Step # 1 and epoxy it intoplace as shown.

Use Duct Tape or Plastic Tapeto close the seams betweenRC, RWS, MC, and FWS asshown.

Also use tape to outline thewindow frames.

STEP # 44

Use tape to close any exposed seems onthe wing and body as shown here.

STEP # 45

OCSC

OCSC

Cut FOUR OCSC from one of the Cans you opened up in Step # 1.Score (on Blue Lines), shape, and tape (on the INSIDE) as shown here.

STEP # 46

1/2” 1/2”

OCSC OCSC

Epoxy One OCSC on both sides of B-4 1/2”back from the back end of B-3 as shown.

B-4

B-3

NOTE: Making Two holes, approx 1/4”, oneither side of B-4 where you’ll attach theOCSC’s will help anchor them in place.

Tape

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STEP # 47

STEP # 48

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Cut a 1 1/8” Hole in BOTH B-3’s whereshown here. (An X-Acto Knife workswell for doing this). These will be theEngine Super Charger Holes (ESCH). B-3

B-4

B-3

WORKING ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE PLANE.

Make a 3/32” hole on the Bottom Center Line ,of B-1, 3” from where B-1 & MC meet. ThisHole will go UP INTO the Center of CPCBapprox 2” and will be the Nose Wheel Hole.

Make a 3/32” hole Mid-Way between the Lead-ing Edge and Trailing Edge of the wing INBOTH B-3’s as shown. These will be the MainLanding Gear Holes (MLGH).

B-1

MC

CPCB

B-1

NOTE: If you’re going to display your plane with the LandingGear Up (No Landing Gear), go directly to Step # 55.

B-2

3”

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Hole is atapprox 15degree angle.

STEP # 49(NWH)

STEP # 50

MLG

NLG

PS

TEWS

MLG MLG

MLG MLG

ESCH in B-3(Step # 46)

Take TWO pieces of 3/32” Rod 4 1/2” long and bend themas shown for MLG.

Take ONE piece of 3/32” Rod 5 1/2” long and bend it asshown for NLG.

1” 1”

1”

1/4”

3 1/2” 3 1/2”4”

2” 2”

Take SIX Bottle Caps and put a 3/32” Hole in the centerof each cap. Glue Two Caps together to make OneWheel. (Add detailing to wheels if desired).

Bend MLG at right angles as shown. Add wheels to MLG andhold wheels in place with an Acorn Nut.

B-3

B-3

B-2

Insert MLG into the MLGH in the underside of B-3 andworking through the ESCH, epoxy the MLG to the INSIDEBottom of B-3.

MLGH

MLGH

Mixing a little saw dust into the epoxy will give it more body.

STEP # 51

STEP # 52

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STEP # 53

Mount Nose Wheel onto NLG and hold in place with an Acorn nut.Put some epoxy onto the NLG and insert it into the NWH in B-1.

B-1

NLGMLG

STEP # 54

Score Lines Score Line

Cut TWO Main Landing Gear Doors,(MLGD), from a piece of Can, score, fold,and epoxy in place as shown.

MLGD

MLGD

Cut ONE Nose Wheel Landing GearDoors, (NWLGD), from a piece ofCan, score, fold, and epoxy in placeas shown.

NWLGD

NWLGD

B-3 B-1

STEP # 55

STEP # 56

B-3

Take TWO Bottle Caps and put a Flat Notch in one sideas shown above.

Take TWO pieces of Can, approx 1/2” x 3”, trim,shape, and glue them into the Bottle Cap as shown.(You can spray paint them silver if desired).These are the Engine Super Chargers (ESC).

Epoxy the ESC into the ESCH in B-3 as shown here.

ESCH

ESC

Trim and spray paint the Nose Cone whatever color you desire.

Glue/Epoxy the Nose Cone to the front of B-1.

B-1

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WE DO NOT HAVE NOSE CONES. USE PLASTIC EASTEREGGS OR WHATEVER WORKS FOR YOU.

STEP # 57

Pull your Engines as far forward, inside B-2,as possable and epoxy them in place.B-2

Epoxy ONE additional Bottle Cap to theFront on the Engine.

STEP # 58

Add a nut onto thePS, as a spacer, sothat the Prop does notrub against the frontof B-2.

PS

B-2

STEP # 59

Install Prop, cut offexcess PS, and holdin place with an AcornNut.

(Paint the Prop tips is desired).

You may find that the hole in the Propyou’re using is larger then the 3/32” PS.You can reduce this hole by glueing a 3/32”anchor bolt into the back of the Prop.

Flatten the little spikes before inserting into the prop hole.

On this plane I used a prop from Tower Hobbies(www.towerhobbies.com). Prop # LXFTE7

STEP # 60

Add Victory Flags if desired.

Cut Prop Spinner (S) from a Can and forminto a cone. Tab goes on the INSIDE. Placea piece of tape on the OUTSIDE, where “A”& “B” meet, to hold in place. Spread glue/epoxy on the INSIDE, over the Tab, to bondthe Spinner together. When the glue/epoxy isdry, remove the tape on the Outside of thespinner. Spray paint the Spinner whatevercolor you desire.

Attach the finished Spinner to the Prop.S

S

SA

BTab

www.bcair.com

STEP # 61

Your B. C. Air Originals Lockheed P-38 Lighting is now complete.

Rig the Radio Antenna Wire by, using heavy black thread or fishing line,running it from the top of both VS’s to the top/back of MC as shown.

VS

VS

MC