We do!How wedded are the royals to ethical nosh?
spring 2011
issue 31
FreemagazineTop of the pop-ups
Fruit carts roll out in London
Food growing universities ❋ Hot cross buns ❋ Turn on to tap
London's magazine for ethical eating
CALLING
THE EMPIRE
London Calling the empire at home and overseas. This is Camden Town and at long last we are free to say words of our own. Stop drinking rubbish and begin drinking quality craft beer from your own towns brewery, Camden Town Brewery. Keep up to date with what’s going on at the brewery, and with our latest beer news on offer by signing up on the website or by getting in touchwww.camdentownbrewery.com
Camden Town Brewery55-59 Wilkin Street MewsLondonNW5 3NN
Telephone: 020 7485 1671
19_CAMDEN AD 270 x 210_6.indd 1 11/01/2011 09:32
CALLING
THE EMPIRE
London Calling the empire at home and overseas. This is Camden Town and at long last we are free to say words of our own. Stop drinking rubbish and begin drinking quality craft beer from your own towns brewery, Camden Town Brewery. Keep up to date with what’s going on at the brewery, and with our latest beer news on offer by signing up on the website or by getting in touchwww.camdentownbrewery.com
Camden Town Brewery55-59 Wilkin Street MewsLondonNW5 3NN
Telephone: 020 7485 1671
19_CAMDEN AD 270 x 210_6.indd 1 11/01/2011 09:32
Tuck in!4 Bulletin
6 Around Town
7 Shop WindowEl'sKitchen
8 To Market QueensPark8 What’s in season
11FeatureFruitcarts12Feature RoyalWarrantholders14 Local to LondonRonnyLiu15On the Menu Popupprinciples?16 Taste of LondonHotcrossbuns17 Star StockistMyCoffeeStop19Capital Growth
19Growing Calendar
20Reader’s KitchenElizaFlanagan
21 London Food LinkCaféCrema22What’s on
TheJellied Eel isaquarterlymagazinepublishedbyLondonFoodLinkandBIGMedia.Ithasacirculationof20,000andisdistributedtoallLondonFoodLinkmembers,aswellasfoodretailers,restaurantsandentertainmentvenues.Disclaimer:inclusionofinformationintheJellied EeldoesnotimplytheproductorserviceisendorsedbyLondonFoodLinkorSustain.Wedonotcondonetheconsumptionofjelliedeels,asmanyeelstocksarecurrentlyverylow.
EditorBenReynoldsDeputyEditorKellyParsonsBIGMediaDirectorJamieFordArtdirectionanddesignBeckyJoyntContributorsMattAtkinson,MichaelDees,AnnaFenton,AnnaFrancis,ClareHill,BenjaminHunt,GeorgieKnight,TomMoggachandAnnaSbuttoniCoverJulianWinslowEditorialenquiriesben@sustainweb.orgor02078371228www.londonfoodlink.orgDistributionenquiriestostocktheJelliedEelthejelliedeel@sustainweb.orgor02078371228Advertisingandsponsorshipenquiriesjamie@thejelliedeel.orgorphone07900496979
PrintedbyStonesthePrinters
AstheendofLentdrawsnear,andthetimeforritualgorgingcomesuponuswithEaster,sparea
thoughtforthelessthanchocolateyhotcrossbun.Although,sadly,nowwidelyavailableallyearround(yes,Idothinkbakedgoodsshouldbeaddedtoallseasonalitycalendars!),thehotcrossbun,forthoseofuswhocanremember,wasoncelinkedwithEaster(thattherebeingacrossonthetop,guv’nor)!Onp16youcanreadaboutwhyoneLondonpubhassuchastronghistorywiththeaforementionedbun.Forthoseofyoualittlesloweroff
thestartingblockswithpickingupacopyofthisissueoftheJellied Eel,it’sprobablyasgoodassummerbynow.Nodoubtyou’llbeoverwhelmedbyaplethoraofchoicesofhotnewpop-upcafestogoto,orrather,shouldIsayeventcaterers!WhileI’mmoreexcitedthanmostwhenaderelictshopgetsturnedoverforaweekortwointosomenewconceptindining(seep15)–Ithinkthetermisusedalittleliberallywhenappliedasanadd-ontoevents.Isthisyear’sGlastonburyfestivalgoingtoberebrandedastheUKslargestpop-uptown?Moreconcerningare“pop-up”
principles.Nowyouseethem,nowyoudon’t.SadlyitseemsrathertoomanyofLondon’srestaurants(ashocking18percentof'local'claimsareundoubtedlyfalsebutnotjustinrestaurants)lietocustomers,overstatingtheethicaloriginsofthefoodtheyserve.CheckoutourOnTheMenureportatwww.thejelliedeel.orgformoredetails.But,fortunatelyforLondoners,onethingthatdoesseemtobeimprovingisthefishonoffer.FollowingthedrumbeatingofHughandJamie,thelikesofGreenpeaceandtheSustainableFishCitycampaignhavebeenmakinghugeleapswithsupplierslikePrinces,catererslikeSodexo,andrestaurantsincluding
Carlucciosbanning'redlist'fish.WitheventheDisneystoresigninguptoSustainableFishCity(well,actually,Vacherinwhodothecateringinoneoftheirbuildings),itwouldseemthisissueisonaroll(orevenwave!).Seewww.sustainablefishcity.netforwhatyoucandonexttohelpouroceans.Asyoucanseebytheicononthe
bulletinpages–we’reontwitter.TheproblemisI’mnotsurethatI’mfollowingtherightpeople!I’mkeentotellyouaboutallthewonderfulethicalfoodgoingsonaroundtown,soletmeknowifyou’reontwittersoIcanstartfollowingyou.Bythetimethenextissuecomes
out,we’llbekickingoffwhatwehopewillbeahugebeecampaign(that’snotacampaignforbiggerbees!-it’sabigcampaigntohelpsupportbee-friendlybehaviour)withsomeveryhigh-profilepartners.We’realsogoingtobelookingintothefoodonofferatthecapital’stoptouristattractions.Letusknowifyou’vehadanyhideousorpleasantlysurprisingexperiencesatLondon’slandmarks.Ohandtheroyalwedding.What
royalwedding?I’vebeentoobusyworryingaboutmyownwedding.Comeon,crackopenthatBabycham…
BenEditor
Say hello to theJellied Eel
Photo: Pamela Troni
Grow your own omeletteThisisn’tsomebizarrescienceexperiment,ratherachanceforschoolstowinawonderful,chicken-friendlyprizebyenteringahome-madeomeletteintoacompetition.Therulesarethattheomelettewillhavetostartwitheggsfromtheschool’shensandcanincludeanything-aslongasithasbeengrownbytheschoolandisinseasonandreadytoharvestinMay.However,saltandpepperisallowed!ThefinalomeletteswillbejudgedattheRealFoodFestivalon5May.www.schoolfoodmatters.
photo: Sch
oo
l Foo
d M
atte
rs
Real Food Book
We have two copies of the Real Food Festival’s wonderful new book to be won. The
Real Food Book was launched at the start of April and features loads of great recipes
from producers and people linked with the events the festival organisers run. To enter
this prize draw, please send in a picture of yourself reading the Jellied Eel in one of our
stockists – see www.sustainweb.org/jelliedeel/stockists. If they’ve run out let us (and
the shop) know. Send your entries by the end of May to [email protected]
BulletinAspreadofthelatestsustaina
blefoodnews
Aerial gardeningAnewbookchartingoneLondoner'sattemptstotransformherselfintoanaerial,ediblegardenerisoutinJune.‘MyGarden,theCityandMe:RooftopAdventuresintheWildsofLondon’,byHelenBabbsisapersonalportraitofarooftopgardenandofacity.Findoutmoreatwww.aerialediblegardening.co.ukandreadHelen’sarticleaboutherexperiencesatwww.thejelliedeel.org.
Rating the coffee chains According to the latest investigation by Ethical Consumer magazine, the next best place to buy your coffee, if there's no independent coffee shop nearby, is AMT, which uses 100 per cent Fairtrade coffee and 100 per cent organic milk, making it streets ahead of the other chains. For more information visit www.ethicalconsumer.org.
4 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org
Knead to Know: the Real Bread starterKnead to KnowfromtheRealBreadCampaignistheonlybookdedicatedtohelpingyousucceedinbringingRealBreadbacktotheheartofyourlocalcommunity.Whetherbakingathomeonceamonthforalocalproducers’market,joiningtogetherwithneighbourstosetupaCommunitySupportedBakery,orinatraditionalhighstreetbakery,thispracticalguidewillinformandinspirebothstart-upandexistingbakers.This140pagehandbookcontainsnotonlycornerstonerecipes,butalsoinformationonbusinessmodels,legislation,moneymatters,equipment,ingredients,techniques,marketing,mediarelations,courses,suppliers,andmuchmore.KneadtoKnowisavailableasalimitededitionbookorPDFdownloadfromwww.realbreadcampaign.org
photo: Sch
oo
l Foo
d M
atte
rs
Tap water springs in LondonWe’reveryluckytoliveinacountrywherewehavedrinkingwateravailableontap.Butwithdrinkingfountainsinshortsupplyit’snotalwayseasytogetholdoffreeh2owhenoutandabout.NowTapwater–anorganisationthatencouragespeopletochoosetapwateroveritsbottledcounterpart–issigningupcafés,shopsandpubstoberefillingstations,whereanyonecanpopinwithare-useablecontainerandfillupwithfreetapwater.Over500stationscanbeidentifiedbyatapwaterrefillingstickerinthewindow,andTapwaterhasalsodevelopedamapwhichshowsalltheparticipatingbusinessesonit,andanappforyoursmartphone.www.tapwater.org
The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 5
Camden Town BreweryItisalmostoneyearsinceJasperCuppaidgeestablishedtheCamdenTownBrewery.Today,hehasfourcorebeers:CamdenHellsLager,CamdenPaleAle,CamdenWheatBeerandCamdenBitter,andhiseco-friendlybusinessnowsuppliestoover50barsandpubsinLondon.TheBritishbitteriskepttraditional,soeverythinginthebeerisnative.www.camdentownbrewery.com
Roots and WingsFollowingonfromtheirfirstforayswithjamsandbiscuits,thisneworganiccompanyisnowlaunchingarangeofchocolateleaves.Thesecomeinmilkchocolate(witharomaticspanishorangeoil),bittersweetdarkchocolate,andpeppermintdarkchocolate.Ifyou'reinterestedinfindingsomeofthesegoodies(evenafterEasterindulgences),theyareavailableinarangeofLondonindependentsorthroughitsonlineshop.Checkonlinefordistribution.www.rootsandwingsorganic.com
Jamie does...independentsJamieOliverhasdevelopedanewfoodrangeforindependentfoodstores.Theproducts,whichincludejams,dressings,condimentsandbiscuits,aremadebyartisanproducerslikeYorkshire'sSteenbergsOrganicherbsandspices,organicchocolatiersCocoaLocofromWestSussex,andCumbriapudding-makersCartmel,andwillbe
officiallylaunchedatthisyear'sRealFoodFestivalinMay.It'searlydays,butLondonstockistsalreadyonboardincludeUnionFoodMarketinFulham.www.jamieoliver.com
Shoppingbasket
Farm AcademyFarmers’ markets may be coming to a school near you, as part of the Farm Academy project. London schools have the opportunity to get involved in food and farming, as well as hosting their own markets. The schools will first go on residential visits to organic farms where they will take part in a variety of farming activities. On returning to school they will be able to set up school farmers markets, at which they can sell their own school-grown produce. The markets will also support small, local producers, as well as enabling members of the school and wider community to buy local, fresh and seasonal produce and meet the farmers. [email protected]
Aspreadofthelatestsustainablefood
news Followu
sonTwitter
twitter.com/
thejelliedeel1
around townGet into what’s happening in your area
From the Ground up Kt3 From the Ground Up, the fortnightly organic fruit and veg box scheme is celebrating its one year anniversary. Based in Kingston-upon-Thames it is marking the occasion by running a series of speaker events. Founded in March 2010 by members of the Transition Town Kingston Food Group, the group aims to make fresh organic food more affordable and available to the community. All fresh food is bought from certified organic suppliers, produce is sold at or near wholesale prices and is seasonal and ‘local when possible’, and preference is given to UK suppliers. Additional offerings include organic bread from one of London’s few organic bakeries, plus jams, cheese and dry goods from Suma.
www.ttkingston.org/groups-and-projects/ground-up/
ramble your way to dinner w1The Ethical Eats ‘Restaurant Ramble’ 2011 is a foodie crawl to three veggie restaurants, equalling one spectacular dinner. Stops will inclue veggie institution Mildreds, and two other venues to be revealed nearer the time. There will be two sittings of 12 people during the course of the evening, so 24 in total, and Ethical Eats is asking veggies who come along to bring a meat-eater with them so they can experience the great meat-free dining options available in London. The date is likely to be 26 May and tickets, at around £40 each, will go on sale in the next few weeks. Go to www.ethicaleats.org for more details or email [email protected].
www.ethicaleats.org
6 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org
Get your hands dirty nw1, w12, w6, n16, se15Ever fancied learning from the pros how to turn your unloved patch into an urban paradise? Capital Growth has teamed up with a number of local organisations to extend the training it ran successfully over the last year in Regents Park. As well as the Regents Park (NW1) site, training will also be run in: West London, at Hammersmith Community Gardens Association Phoneix Farm W12 & Ravenscourt Park Greenhouses W6; East London, at Growing Communities, Allen Gardens, N16; and South London, at The London Wildlife Trust - Centre for Wildlife Gardening in Peckham SE15. Discounts available for London Food Link members.
www.capitalgrowth.org/training
The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 7
wine oF the times se1Borough Market will be hosting the UK’s first Natural Wine Fair on Sunday 15 May. Natural wines are made with little or no sulphur and no pesticides – the aim being to produce wine in a way that doesn’t abuse the soil or the environment. The fair is the highlight of Natural Wine Fortnight, from 9-22 May, and will bring together producers from all over Europe, as well as a small selection from the New World. It will feature wine tasting classes, and a chance to sample a variety of wines and meet the producers.
www.thenaturalwinefair.com
into the wild wd6Chris Herald started Wild Forest Foods on a half-acre patch of rented land near Mill Hill in North West London, and since 2007 has been supplying small quantities of vegetable and salad crops to local restaurants and shops in the capital. Faced with increasing demand, Chris has now moved to a new, larger site near Borehamwood, a couple of miles outside the M25. Besides the usual European crops he plans to grow Japanese, Thai and other oriental produce to supply the Far East communities and restaurants in London.
www.wildforestfoods.co.uk
windowSHOp
say Goodbye to suspect meats se1A food revolution is underway: greasy sausages and dubious burgers are being replaced by cheap, delicious and fresh alternatives. The Real Food Festival team is bringing together a new generation of street vendors to Southbank Centre for the first Real Street Food Festival. Taking place over the weekend of the Royal Wedding (29 April), visitors will be able to taste a wide variety of foods from specially selected vendors. The Royal Wedding will be shown on a big screen too, so there’s no excuse not to head along. Their regular market at the Southbank centre is also now going weekly, so no excuses for not making it part of your regular shop. And the main festival at Olympia is on 5th – 8th May. Be there!
www.realfoodfestival.co.uk
ClareHilldiscoversathrivinglocalgrocerystorethat’sbuckingallthetrends.ThehighstreetinLadywellisunremarkableandshort–littlemorethanacoupleofhairdressers,offlicencesandafewkebabshops.Soacornerstorepaintedtoptotoeinburgundy,withcratesoffruitandvegetablesoutthefront,sticksoutliketheproverbial.Alsonoticeableisthestreamofcustomerscominginandoutoftheshop–unusualforSundaymid-morninginasuburbanpocketofsoutheastLondon.El’sKitchenisrunbyEleanorThompson,along-term
Ladywelllocal,whoopenedtheshopsimplybecauseshe“justgotfrustratedwithnotbeingabletobuydecentfood.”Theshopisadelicatesseninthetruesenseoftheword,withbowlsofself-serveolives,nearly30kindsofcheese(muchofitBritish),salamis,homemadedips,freshbread,andasmallselectionofcakesandpastries.There’sanencyclopaedicrangeoflarderingredients,somequiteniche,likeShiptonMillchestnutflourandjarsofasparaguspâté.Butyoucanalsopickupessentialslikemilk,eggsandbutter.Oh,andwine.Allcrammedintoaspacethesizeofanaveragelivingroom.Eleanor’sapproachistosellqualityfoodsnotcarriedin
nearbysupermarketsorconveniencestores,withprioritygiventosmall,independent,local,seasonal,fairlytradedandorganic.ShegetsbaconfromDring’sButchersandthebreadfromPaulRhodesBakery–bothhigh-endGreenwich-basedbusinesses.Theemphasisisonfinefood,whichmeansthatalotoftheitems,whilenodoubtdelicious,arepricey.HoweverEleanorcountersthiswithreasonablypricedbasicssuchassixfreerangeeggsfor£1.40,andalitreofRachel’sOrganicmilkfor£1.15.AlthoughtheshophasonlybeenopensinceNovember
lastyear,it’snocaseofovernightsuccess,asEleanordevotedfiveyearsofmeticulousplanningtoensurethebusiness’viability.Sheputhermarketingbackgroundtogooduse–surveyingpeopleinthestreettofindoutwhattheywanted.Theywantedfreshfruitandvegetables:“We’reprettymuchtheonlyfreshfruitandvegselleraroundhere.”shesays.Eleanorhasalsofine-tunedtradinghours,sotheshopisopen
from8amto8pmTuesdaytoFriday(and8amto6pmSaturdays).ThismeanshungrycommutersreturningfromZone1canpickupsomethingtocookfortheeveningmealwhentheyarriveatLadywellstationacrosstheroad.Andopeningat9am–4pmonSundays–that’sararityinLondonanddevotionindeed.
El’sKitchen,71LadywellRoadSE137JAwww.elskitchen.co.uk
Pho
to: M
oham
ed A
ly
To market what’s in APRILPurple Sprouting Broccoli Early crops were wiped out by our freezing winter. Enjoy these fresh supplies, lightly steamed with butter or hollandaise sauce. Or stir fry the steamed florets with red chilli, finishing with a sprinkle of lemon juice.Wild Garlic Found a patch? Wild garlic is free to the forager; rare and pricey in the shops. The fragrant leaves thrive in damp woodland, just follow their garlicky scent. Stir through pasta, yoghurt, egg dishes or stir fries, or whizz into a pesto.Jersey Royal Potatoes These classy spuds are the first of the year, famous for their creamy texture. Don’t peel - just wash under the tap, boil and serve as simply as possible. Also in season morel mushrooms, radishes, rhubarb (outdoor), spinach, spring onions.
MAYAsparagus Gorge while you can – our season is swift; imports best avoided. Look for freshly-cut, firm spears with tight buds. For a twist, try shaving into salads or roasting until crispy on the barbecue. Sorrel A gift for the cook, with its refreshing acidity. Toss small leaves into salads, wilt into risottos, or rustle up a tart sauce to complement fish. Also in season artichokes,early carrots, courgettes, fennel, samphire, strawberries.
JUNECherries Cherry orchards used to liven up our landscape; now we import nearly 95 per cent of the fruit that we eat. So support our remaining growers - farmers’ markets are your best bet to buy their fruit. National Cherry Day is celebrated on 16 July.
Gooseberries A quintessential British crop. Preserve as a
relish, simmer for a sauce or add to a classic sponge pudding. Look out for red and dessert varieties, sweet enough to be eaten out of your hand. Also in season aubergine, broad beans,
damsons, elderflower, peas, watercress.
Tom Moggach
Queens Park farmers’ market
seasonSalusburyRoadLondonNW66RGEverySunday10am–2pmwww.lfm.org.uk/markets/queens-park
W alkingintoQueensParkfarmers’market,youareimmediatelystruckbytherangeofproduceavailable.
Onecustomersummeditupnicelyasoffering‘everydayfood,withsomethingfortheweekendtoo’.Whileitmayappearalittlerougharound
theedges,that’sprobablybecauseQueen’sParkconcentratesmoreongoodqualitylocalproducethanthefancycakesandcoffeeswhichfeaturestronglyatsomemarkets.ItisrunbyLondonFarmers’Markets,
whichmeans-amongotherthings-thateachstallisrundirectlybytheproducerandthattheproducersarelocal,allhavingtravelledlessthan100miles.Thisalsomeansknowledgeablesellers,whoaregenuinelyinterestedintheirproducts.Seeingasparkleintheireyewhenyouaskhowtogetthebestfromtheiringredientsiswhatitisallabout.DavidEmmettofRockwellEndFarm
Shop,fromHambleden,Oxfordshire,isagoodexample.Davidclearlyknowshisonions,orratherhispotatoes,whicharegrownonhisfarminHenley-on-Thames.Onofferwhenwevisitedweresomefinepotatoes,suchasFranceline,asaladvariety
whicharedelicioussimplyboiledandfinishedoffwithsalt,pepperandbutter.Healsostocksfree-rangeeggsandothervegetableswheninseason,suchassweetcorn,tomatoes,peppers,andasparagus.ThegrowingdemandforreallyfreshandseasonalfoodiswhatinspiresDavidtobringhisproducetourbanmarketssuchasthisone.Hesellsatanumberofdifferentmarkets,butstickstonorthand
westLondontokeepfoodmileslow.Andthestallsarenotallrawingredients
either.AterrificsoupstallrunbyTheMouthfullFoodCompany,sellshome-cooked,organicsoupintubstotakehome.
❋ Featured stallholderWild Country Organics.co.ukOwnedbyAdrianIzzard,WildCountryOrganicsoffersawiderangeoforganically-grownsaladsandvegetables.‘Alovelysalad’shoutedacustomertome,whentheynoticedmeexaminingtheproduce.Ileftwithsomedeliciouscavolonero,whichmadealovely,warmingTuscan-style‘Ribollita’soupwhenIgothome.Excitingvarietiessuchaskomatsunaandlandcressaregrownallyearroundinmorethanfiveacresofglasshouses,heatednaturallybythesun.Thevibrant,greenleavesmakearefreshingcontrasttothepackagedorsometimeswiltedofferingsofsupermarketsaladshelves.
ByBenjaminHunt
Food markets around London
8 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org
www.hubbub.co.uk
Your local shops delivered
www.hubbub.co.uk
Who do we deliver from in your area?La Fromagerie * Frank Godfrey Family Butcher Earth Natural Foods * The Barnsbury Grocer Saponara Italian Delicatessen * Fin & FlounderPaul A Young Fine Chocolates * Ottolenghi
Wouldn’t it be great if the best local shops delivered?Well now they do. At www.hubbub.co.uk you can shop online at the finest independent shops at no extra cost and receive your order all in one delivery. Visit our website, use the postcode-checker to see if we deliver in your area yet, then start shopping.
Hubbub helps you get hold of, and cook with, the very best quality seasonal fruit and veg, meat, bread, fish, and more. Plus you’ll save time, avoid over-enthusiastic traffic wardens and support independent shops without even leaving your home. You can’t shop much more local than that.
We’ll also give you FREE DELIVERY on your first order when you quote ‘the Jellied Eel’. Order before midday and we can deliver to you the same day.
Bring your own bags!
season
www.hubbub.co.uk
Your local shops delivered
www.hubbub.co.uk
Who do we deliver from in your area?La Fromagerie * Frank Godfrey Family Butcher Earth Natural Foods * The Barnsbury Grocer Saponara Italian Delicatessen * Fin & FlounderPaul A Young Fine Chocolates * Ottolenghi
Wouldn’t it be great if the best local shops delivered?Well now they do. At www.hubbub.co.uk you can shop online at the finest independent shops at no extra cost and receive your order all in one delivery. Visit our website, use the postcode-checker to see if we deliver in your area yet, then start shopping.
Hubbub helps you get hold of, and cook with, the very best quality seasonal fruit and veg, meat, bread, fish, and more. Plus you’ll save time, avoid over-enthusiastic traffic wardens and support independent shops without even leaving your home. You can’t shop much more local than that.
We’ll also give you FREE DELIVERY on your first order when you quote ‘the Jellied Eel’. Order before midday and we can deliver to you the same day.
rude health rantsThe proudly outspoken Rude Health gang are
passionate about real food, the way it should be.
Rude Health take their Rants on the road to food
festivals across the country, where they’re joined
by producers, celebrated chefs and food writers
as they too step up to the microphone to rant.
Listen to the Rude Health Rants on their website,
including...
Steve of Hook & Sons on raw milk
Jane Mason of Virtuous Bread on real loaves
Paul A. Young, chocolatier, on Orangutans
Come and hear the Rude Health Rants live at Foodies Festival in Battersea Park on 29th-31st July 2011.
www.rudehealth.com
Rant CompetitionRude Health are giving away 20 packs of their
new healthy organic snacks. Answer the question
below and send with your name and address to:
Q: Who is Rude Health’s Chief ranter?
AnnaFentonuncoversanewschemehopingtorevolutionisethewayLondonersbuytheirfruitandveg.
The street vendor
strikes back
P aulSmithisasecond-generationfruitandvegetablewholesaler.Despiteashortstintinthecity“tradingpeople’sfutures”,fruitandvegiswhatheknows.Histwopartnersarethird
generationgreengrocersand,together,theyaimtochangethewayyougetyourgreens.StartinginKensington,andthen–literally!–rollingoutto
therestofLondon,FreshCartsisaninnovativeprojectwhichwillsupplyfresh,sustainableproducefrommobilestreetcarts.ItallbeganwhenPaulheardabouttheGreenCartsproject
inNewYork.GreenCartswasintroducedasapartofacitystrategytoputfreshlocalfruitsandvegetablesonstreetcorners.Theaimwastomakehealthyfoodaccessibletotheestimated750,000NewYorkerswholiveinfooddeserts.PaulSmithsawagreatopportunityforourowncapital
city,andsohoppedstraightonaplanetoNewYorkonafact-findingmissionwithhisbusinesspartners:“WhatwefoundoutinNewYorkwasthattheschemehastobecentralised.There’snopointingivingoutindividuallicensestostallholdersbecausethere’snotverymuchprofitinfruitandveg,”hesays.FreshCartsisabusiness,andthereforeprofitisobviously
important.However,Paulsays,thisdoesn’thavetobeadirtyword.TheethosbehindFreshCartsblendsbusinessandsustainability,profitwithsocialconscience,anditseemstobeaneasymarriage.Fromtheproduce,tothetransport,thepackaging,tothecartitself,FreshCartshasloftyambitionsofbeing“goodforyou–betterforeveryone”.Aswellasprovidingconvenientaccesstohealthyproduce,theprojectaimstoprovidebenefitstotheproducer,tolocalcommunitiesandtothegreaterenvironment.Sohowexactlydoeshehopetoachieveallofthis,leastof
allrollingout200cartstotheGreaterLondonAreainthreeyears?Carefulplanning,consultationandpartnershipshaveplayedakeypartingettingtheball(andcart!)rolling.AswellashisinvolvementwiththeNationalFarmersUnion,whichhelpstocreateanetworkbetweensellersandlocalgrowers,FreshCartsisalsoenteringaworkingpartnershipwiththegovernment’sChange4Lifeproject.ItseemslikeanaturalunionforPaul:“Weallwantpeopletoeatasproperlyaspossible,anddoaslittledamageaspossible-it’snotrocketscience.Peoplehavegottoeat,andifwecanfindagoodwayforthemtodothat,thenthat’sgreatnewsforustoo.”FreshCarts’mainapproachtosustainabilityisto
focusonlocalproduce.“Withinayearwewant22percentofproduceonthekioskslocallysourced-withina50mileradius.It’scheapertobuyapplesfromKent
thanfromFrance,andpeopleliketobuylocally.”Eventhekiosksthemselvesarebeingmadewithin50
milesofLondon,explainsPaul,andthepackagingisgoingtobemadepredominantlyfrombamboo.“Ican’tfinditanygreener,”hesays.“Althoughitdoeshavetobeimported,itisbiodegradable,andIamusingaLondonbasedcompany.”Theproduceitselfwillbeboughtona‘grow-to-ripe’
basis,negatingtheneedforexpensiveandenergy–intensivepreservationprocesses.Whereproduceisfromoutsidethe50-milearea,FreshCartswillonlybuyfromsupplierswhomeetstrictproductioncriteria.Makingfresh,ripe,sustainablefruitandvegetables
readilyavailableonthestreetsincommunitiescouldstrikeablowatthecontrolsupermarketshaveoverourbuyinghabits,somethingthatPaulfeelspassionatelyabout.“Thesupermarketshavesuchagripinourcountry.Wewanttogivepeopletheconfidencetobuyfromstreetsellersagain.”IfFreshCartsgoestoplan,itwilldemonstratethat
beingsustainableandmakingaprofitdonothavetobemutuallyexclusive.“There’ssuchanincentivetobegreenandsustainable,”Paulsays.“Itmakesgoodbusinesssensetofillyourlorriesasfullaspossible,andgetyourproducelocally,asyouhavetopaylessfordelivery.Buttheotherbenefitsreallymakeitpayoff.”
Formoreinformationcontactneilw@freshcarts.co.ukwww.freshcarts.co.uk
The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 11
Theroyalfamilyhasbeencriticisedforgivingitsregalstampofapprovaltosomeratherdubiousproductsovertheyears,butanewemphasisonmoreenvironmentallyandsociallyresponsiblepracticesisabouttospreadacrossalltheroyalwarrants.ByKellyParsons.
T here'sbeenmuchspeculationinrecentmonthsaboutwhatWilliamandKatemightbeeatingfortheirweddingbreakfast.Certainlyiftheirfather(inlaw)hadanythingtodowithit,thefoodwould
belikelytoscoreprettyhighlyinthesustainabilitystakes.Afterall,thegreencredentialsofHRHPrinceofWalescan'tbedisputed.Whenhe’snotfoundingapioneeringorganicfoodandfarmingcompany,he’sattackingclimatechangesceptics,ordeclaringthatorganicallotmentscansavetheenvironment.Butdothosesameprinciplesstretchtothesustainabilityofthefoodcompaniesheandhisownparentsendorsewitharoyalwarrant?Therearenowover850warrantsinuse,issuedeitherbythe
Queen,PrincePhiliporPrinceCharlesasamarkofrecognitionforregularlysupplyinggoodsorservicestothemforatleastfiveyears.Around80oftheseareheldbyfoodcompanies,rangingfromthelikesofglobalgiantsUnilever,Kellogg’sandNestlé,tospecialistorlocalsupplierssuchas200year-oldStJames’scheesemakerPaxton&Whitfield,orspecialitymilleroforganicflourShiptonMill,inGloucestershire.ThepresenceofNestléonthelistofroyally-approved
suppliershas,unsurprisingly,raisedafeweyebrowsovertheyears.Backin2008,campaigninggrouptheFoodCommissioncalledontheQueentouseherwarrantmoreselectively.Itspresenceonhigh-sugarbreakfastcereals,mayonnaise,sugarysoftdrinkssuchasRobinson’sFruitShoots,andonthepackagingofTate&LyleandBritishSugar,thecampaignersargued,wascompletelyatoddswithgovernmentnutritionadvice.
Elevated ethicsThreeyearson,andoverattheroyalhouseholdsthere’schangeintheair,assustainabilityislikelytotakeamoreprominentroleinwhoreceives-andpotentiallywholoses-thewarrantinthe
12 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org
What’s the sustainable
deal... WIT
H T
HE ROYAL SEAL? ***
future.Andthe Jellied Eel’sinvestigationsintosomeoftheLondon-basedroyally-appointedfoodcompanieshaverevealedthat,foreveryNestlé,there’sawarrantholderwithethicalprinciplesclosertoitsheart.Companiessuchastheroyalfamily’s
localsupermarketFortnum&Mason,wherelocalsuppliersareapriority.Nearly90percentofsuppliersarefromtheUK,theclosestbeingthebeesonitsPiccadillyroof.Itisalsooftenthesoleremainingstockistofaproducer,andclaimstodoitsutmosttokeeplocaltraditionsaliveandprofitable,andusesbicyclesandelectricvehiclesforLondondeliveries(thoughitlosessomeofthosebrowniepointsforsellingfoiegras).
Know your plaiceWholesaleandretailfishmongerJamesKnightofMayfair,meanwhile,hasjustsigneduptotheSustainableFishCitycampaign.Itsfishpurchasepolicyaimstobuyallwild-captureandfarmedfishfromonlysustainablyandresponsibly-managedsources.Italsousesfishboxesmadefromrecycledcompostablecard,andLPG-poweredvans.Thefishmongerholdswarrantsto
supplyboththeQueenandthePrinceofWales.“It’sclearfromthereviewsthatsupplieradherencetoethical,sustainable,andenvironmentally-friendlypoliciesisofparamountimportance,”saysthefishmonger’ssalesdirectorNatalieHudd.Inadditiontothestrictqualifying
criteriaforachieving‘royalappointment’,since1990,applicantsforPrinceCharles’warranthavebeenrequiredtomeetadditionalandincreasinglystringentcriteriacoveringgoodenvironmentalpractice.Thecriteria,whichcomedirectfromthePrinceofWales’office,coverelevenmainissues:climatechange;animalwelfareandendangeredspecies;sustainablefishing;GMOsandchemicals;organic;localsourcing;peatuse;timberandrainforests;genericwastemanagement;humanrights;andlabourstandards.Applicantsarerequiredtoprovideastatementontheirenvironmentalandsocialpolicy,withasupportingstatementonwhatactiontheyaretakingorhowtheyaretacklingrelationshipswithsuppliers.TheyarethenrequiredtosettargetsandannuallyupdatetheRoyalWarrantAssociationonprogress.“Beingaroyalwarrantholderhas
encouragedustoensureweareattheforefrontofpromotingtheimportanceoftradingsustainably,”confirms
Natalie.“Ourwarrantholderstatushascertainlyinfluencedourlevelofcommitmentintermsofensuringwearealwaysthemostuptodatewithanydevelopmentsinthefield.”“Theroyalsealisn’tsomethingyou
canjuststickabovethedoor,”echoesPaulMoore,headofmarketingatdriedfruit,nutandseedimporterCommunityFoods,“especiallywiththeHRHPrinceCharleswarrant,whichwehold.It’snoteasymaintainingit–thereviewprocessisstricterthanthoseoftheotherhouses,andyouareexpectedtoprovidehardevidenceofyourethicalpolicy–sowefindthewarrantdefinitelyhasapositiveinfluenceontheethicsofthebusiness.Itleadstomoreinternalreviews,moresearchingquestions.”LikethePrincehimself,CommunityFoodswasoneofthepioneersoforganicfoodinthe1980s.It’salsobeenalongstandingsupporteroffairtrading,anditsbrand,CrazyJackOrganic,wasresponsibleforlaunchingthefirstFairtradeHimalayanbasmatiriceintheUKin2005.
The royal auditMariaGrayworksforBusinessintheCommunity(BITC),thenot-for-profitorganisationthathasbeenenvironmentallyauditingroyalwarrant-holdingbusinessesforthepastfifteenyears.SheexplainsthatwhiletherearerequirementsthePrincehasalwaysbeenverypassionateabout-likesustainablefishing,animalwelfareandrainforestdestruction-thecriteriahasexpandedsignificantlyoverthepastfewyears,andisabouttobeextendedfurther.“Wearenowworkingwiththe
Associationtoaligntheapproachesoftheroyalhouseholds,andapplythePrinceofWales’environmentalandethicalcriteriaacrossallthewarrants,”saysMaria.“Itwasfeltthatconsumersviewingthewarrantshouldbeabletoassumecertainstandards,andthatasthePrinceofWaleshasbeenconcernedaboutanumberofissuesforsometimetheyshouldberolledouttoalltheroyalhouses.”While,todate,nowarrantshave
beenreversedasadirectresultoftheenvironmentalandethicalaudit,thereisalwaysthepossibilitythatcompaniesnotsatisfyingthecriteriawillfindtheirwarrantisnotextendedonreapplication,whichhappensonaverageeveryfiveyears.Between20and40warrantsarethoughttobelosteachyear,mostoftenbecausethequalityisnotuptothemark,theproductisnolongerrequired,orthehousesarerationalisingsuppliers.
“Inacoupleofcaseswherewefeltcompaniesweren’tpushinghardenoughwehaveextendedthewarrantforonlyaoneyearperiod,ratherthanthetypicalfiveyears,andmonitoredprogressandprovidedadditionalsupportoverthattime,”saysMaria,addingthatsomeoftheQueen’snewwarrantswilllikelyneedmoresupportintheearlystages,whenthenewcriteriacomesintoeffectnextyear.RichardPeck,secretaryoftheRoyalWarrantAssociation,saysthatcompaniesonlygivenashortextensionperiodforthewarrantshouldviewthisasa‘warningshot’toaddressanyissues.Withtheroyalwarrantprovidingclear
marketingbenefitsforcompanies,it’sunsurprisingthatthepossibilityoffailingtheauditcanhaveapowerfulinfluence.Thewarrantseemstoensuresustainabilityissupportedbyallstakeholdersinthebusiness,evencommercialdepartments,whichmaynottraditionallyhavehadadirectinterest,andsupplierstoo.“Somecompanies,particularly
smallerones,maynothavetimetoconsideralltheethicalissues,sohavingthesupportofthePrinceofWales’officebehindthemcanmakeinternalconversationseasier,andprovideanextraleverif,forexample,theyarelookingtochangesuppliers,”saysMaria.PaulfromCommunityFoodsconfirms
herassessment.“Myjobistokeeptheethicalpolicygoing,buttherearelotsofdifferentpeoplewithdifferingprioritiesinthebusiness,andtheymightnotbethesameasthePrinceofWales’.Ifweholdthewarranteveryoneknowstheyhavetosignuptothoseenvironmentalandsocialprinciples.”
haverinG
Some royal warrant holding food companies, based in the capitalJamesKnightofMayfair–FishmongerFortnum&Mason–FoodEmporiumPaxton&Whitfield–CheesemongerCharbonneletWalker–ChocolatierCommunityFoods–DriedFruit,NutandSeedimporterPrestat–ChocolatierSelfridges&Co–DepartmentStoreJeroboams-CheesemongerDailyBread-Caterer
The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 13
WIT
H T
HE ROYAL SEAL? ***
14 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org
R onnyLiuisaresponsibleman.TheownerofNewSpitalfieldsMarket-basedSunnyfieldVegandCook’sDelight,heworksbehindthescenesofindependent
restaurantsandretailerstoprovidefreshfruitandvegetablesalongsideingredientsthatyoumightnothaveevenheardof.Redbulletchillies,bananaflowersandholy
basilarejustsomeoftheunusuallinesonofferathisbusyspotinEastLondon’stwilightfoodhub,whichfeedsthecapital’sbusyoutlets.Butbeneaththewhirlwindofeveryday
trading,Liuisonalong-standingmissiontogivesomethingbacktothecommunity.HehasneverlostsightofthefactthathissonwasbornwithaheartconditionthatwastreatedatGreatOrmondStreetHospital.Eighteenyearson,Christopheris“veryhealthyandveryhandsome”,saysLiu,butthescaremadeitaprioritytosupportbothchildrenandtheelderlyinanywayhecould.Hislatestprojecthasseenhimteamupwiththird-
generationHerefordshireapplegrowerJamesManningtosupplyJonagoldapplesandtheirjuice,aspartofadealthatwillsee50pfromeveryboxsolddonatedtotheLordMayor’sAppeal.ManningsJonagoldapplejuiceisnowavailableinChineserestaurantsacrossLondon,specialistsupermarketsincludingWingYip,andwilllaunchinSparstoresnationwideinMarch.Thisyear’sappeal,launchedbyLordMayor
MichaelBearandnamedBearNecessities–BuildingBetterLives,hasthesimultaneousaimstogivechildreninLondonbetteropportunitiesandtosupportinternationaldisasterrelief.TheprojectunitesCoram,theUK’sfirsteverchildren’scharity,withRedR,whichtrainsandprovidesengineersandreliefworkerstorespondtoworldwideemergencies.Ronnyhassofarraisednearly£1,000forthecausethroughhispartnershipwithManningsalone.And
hehasalsosupportedanumberoffund-raisingeventsforGreatOrmondStreetHospital,theIslingtonChineseAssociationandtherebuildingoftheSichuanearthquakeregiontonameafew.“Wearealwaysmotivatedbycharityand
tohelptheelderlyandchildreninparticular–ifwecandosomethingtogivebacktothecommunity,wewill,”saysLiu.“Atthesametime,ifwecandogoodforthefruitandvegetableindustry,it’swin-winforeveryone.”
www.sunnyfield328.comwww.mannings-juice.co.uk
AdamandEvewouldn’thavegotintothebadbooksforabiteofanappleorasipofitsjuice,ifNewSpitalfieldsMarkettraderRonnyLiuhadanythingtodowithit.AnnaSbuttonitalkstothemanwhoisbringingHerefordshire-grownapplesandtheirpremiumjuicetotheChinesecommunityinthecapital,andraisingmoneyintheprocess.
local to london
Photo: Adela Nistora
One good apple…
Thephenomenonofthesuppercluborpop-upembodiesausteritychicandiseasytograsp:amateurchefscan
‘haveago’withoutcommittingtoafullscalebusinessanddinersgetarelativelyaffordablemealwithameasureofurbanandculinaryadventurethrownin.Butasthescenematures,isn’tit
timetoaskhowsustainablethefoodis?Someprogresshasbeenmadewithmainstreamrestaurantsandevenfast-foodchainsservingupfree-rangeeggs,reducingfoodwasteandcuttingfoodmiles.Butare‘guerillarestaurants’–virtuallyunregulatedandrunonashoestring–morepushedtocutcornersandsogiveprioritytocheapproduceratherthanenvironmentalcredentials?It’shardtomakeanygeneralisations
aboutthe80-oddsupperclubsandpop-upsinLondon.Someareallabouttheatricalityandnovelty,whileafewothersobsessoverproducefreshnessandprovenance.However,ifwefocusjustonsupperclubsforthemoment,whicharetinyandhome-based,aren’ttheywell-placedtobemoresustainable?Withthenumberofdinersknowninadvanceandafixedmenu,anexactquantityoffoodcanbebought,soalmostthereshouldbealmostzerowaste–providedtheresultingdishisnotsoavant-gardethateveryonereturnsithalf-eaten!Sometimesexperimentationand
sustainabilitycanhappilycoalesce.MsMarmiteLover,veritablegodmotheroftheLondonsupperclubscene,declares:“Eco-extremismisboring…there’stoomuchguilt-trippingaboutsustainability.”Butshehasjustputona‘jarmeal’atherUndergroundRestaurant–amenuofpickledandpotteddelicacies.“Canningisquiteenergyefficient,”she
explains,“youcanstorefoodwithoutrefrigerationandstockupseasonalglutstouseatothertimesoftheyear.”MsMarmiteLover’srestaurantalso
eschewsmeat(butnotfish),forethicalandenvironmentalreasons.TheVeganPeasant,asthenamesuggests,leavesoutdairyandeggstoo.StartedbyDianaPinkettandchefAdrianSmithlatelastyear,thesupperclubservesaseven-courseplant-basedmenuinaHackneylivingroomforsixpeople.Themenuhasanaturallylowerenvironmentalimpact,anditmaybetheonlyregularvegansupperclubintheUK.Fruitandvegisboughtfromanall-
organicfarmers’market.“Weuseasmuchorganicaspossible,butyoucan’tdoitwitheverything,”explainsDiana,“we’rehavinganotherCaribbean-inspiredmenusoon,buttheplantainswon’tbeorganic.”Likemostsupperclubs,theVeganPeasantrunsontightmargins,butDianabelieves
withthesourcesshecurrentlybuysfrom,organicproduceneedn’tcostmuchmore.TheUndergroundRestaurantand
othersareembracingalternativesupplychains,utilisingfreelancebuyerswhoknowtheproducerswellandcandoallthelegwork.Anotherwell-knownsupperclub,theRamblingRestaurant,buysitsfruitandvegfromthePeople’sSupermarket,thehigh-profileco-operativeshopthataimstoformsupplyrelationshipswithfarmerswhoseproducefailstheperfectiontestofthebigsupermarkets.Thegeneralapproachinthisnewworld
ofguerrillachefsandguerrillabuyersseemspragmaticaboveall:buyingproducethatisasseasonal,British,andsustainablycaughtorreared‘aspossible’.It’sagoodplacetostart.Forsomesupperclubs,itwillbeanadditionalchallengetoensuretheatricalityandexperimentationworkwith,andnotagainst,sustainability.
Barelyaweekgoesbywithouthearingofyetanotherintriguingnewsuppercluborpop-uprestaurantconceptinLondon.But,ClareHillasks,aretheseunregulatedeateriesalsocuttingcornerswiththeirfoodethics?
Pop upPrinciples?
Tofindouthowtobookattableatoneofourfeaturedsupperclubssee:http://marmitelover.blogspot.comhttp://veganpeasantcatering.comhttp://ramblingrestaurant.com
Anddon’tforgetthatsustainabilitycanbeapriorityforotherkindsofforpop-ups,notjustsupperclubs-seeourarticleonStreetKitchenatwww.sustainweb.org/jelliedeel/articles/142/
The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 15
on the menu
‘Rambling HQ’ prepares to open its doors for another secret supper. Photo: Rambling Restaurant
16 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org
a taste of london
T hesedeliciousEasterbunshaveacolourfulhistoryofreligiousandsuperstitioustales,butnonearemoreheartbreakingthanthe
storyofTheWidow’sSon.Legendhasitthatduringtheearly19thCentury,awidowlivedinacottagewithheronlysononwhatisnowDevonsRoadintheEastLondonareaofBow.HersailorsonleftfortheseabutpromisedtobebackontheGoodFridayof1824.Awaitinghisreturn,hismotherbakedhimahotcrossbun,butheneverarrived.EveryyearuntilherdeathshebakedabunonGoodFriday,hopingtowelcomehersonhome,butsheneversawhimagain.Inthe1840s,apubreplacedthecottageand
hasbeennamedTheWidow’sSoneversince.ThepubholdsaserviceeveryEasterforthelostmariner,whereamemberoftheRoyalNavalpresentsahotcrossbuntobehungatthebar.There’snothinglikeahotcrossbunwith
meltedbutterandacupoftea,sowhetheryou’recommemoratingthewidow’sson,areligiouseventorjustfancyatastytreat,whynotuseourgoodold-fashionedrecipewithafewmodern,sustainableupdates.
Recipe (makes 16 buns)Mixuptheferment12-18hoursbeforeyouwanttomakethehotcrossbuns.Heatthewateruntilitfeelslukewarmtothetouchthenstirintothefreshyeastuntilitissmoothlyblended.Mixthisliquidintotheflour,coverthebowlwithclingfilmandleaveinacoolplacetoriseanddropagain.Forthedough,mixtogethertheflours,salt,
sugarandspice.Meltthebutter,pouritontothedryingredientstogetherwiththebeateneggandmilk.Stirtheliquidwithyourhand,graduallydrawinginsomeofflourmixture.Whenthecentreisnolongerliquidaddthefermentfromthedaybeforeandmixtogether.Coverthedoughandletitrestfor30
minutesorsobeforekneadinginearnest.Whilstthedoughisresting,chopthepeel.Kneadthedoughuntilitissmoothand
elasticthenstretchoutintoarectangularshapewithouttearing.Scatterthechoppedpeelover
thedoughandthenfoldthebottomthirdover,followedbythetopthird.Givethedoughaquarterturnandstretchitoutagain.Thistimescatterwiththe
sultanasandrepeatthefoldingprocess.Putthedoughintoalargebowl,coverwith
clingfilmandleaveinawarmplace,suchasanairingcupboard,untilthedoughhasdoubledinsize.Thiswilltakeabouttwohours.Brieflykneadthedoughtoknockout
theairandthendivideitintofourpieces,thendivideeachquarterintofourandshapeeachpieceintoaball.Placetheseontogreasedbakingsheetsallowingagapapproximatelythesamesizeaseachballbetweenthemforthedoughtorise.Coverandputbackinawarmplacefor
thedoughtoriseagain-about45minutes.Meanwhile,mixtogethertheingredients
tomakethecrosses.Putthemixtureintoapipingbagfittedwithabroadplainnozzle.Pre-heattheovento210ºC(190ºCinafanoven)/gasmark5.Pipeacrossovereachbun.Putthebuns
intotheovenandturntheheatupto220ºC(200ºCinafanoven)/gasmark6.Bakefor12-15minutesuntillightlygoldenincolour.Whilstthebunsarebakingmixtogethertheingredientsfortheglazeandbrushoverthebunsassoonastheyareremovedfromtheoven.Enjoy!By Gaby De Sena
RecipekindlysubmittedbySuzanneWynnforTheRealBreadCampaign.Fortipsaboutthisandotherrecipes,moreinformationonRealBreadortojointheCampaign,pleasevisitwww.realbreadcampaign.org
Ingredients
Theferment:140gstrongwhiteflour20gfreshyeast(or10gdried activeyeast)150mlwater
Thedough:310gstonegroundstrong whiteflour1tspsalt3tspmixedspice55glightmuscovadosugar55gbutter,melted1egg,beaten125mlmilk85ghandchoppedcandied lemonpeel85gsultanas
Thecrosses:50gplainwhitehousehold flourPinchofbakingpowder40-50mlwater1tspvegetableoil
Theglaze:1egg2tbspsugar2tbspboilingwater140gbutter140gcastersugar28gyeastcreamedwith1tsp ofsugar4eggs½cuptepidmilk1tspmixedspice1cupcurrantsPinchofsaltSyrupforglazing:¼cupof sugarboiledwith2tbspwater
Seewww.thejelliedeel.orgfordetailsofwheretoshopethicallyfortheseingredients.
Hot Cross BunsHot cross buns! Hot cross buns! One a penny, two a penny, hot cross buns!
Hot cross buns on display in The Widdow's Son pub, East London. Photo: Adela Nistora
Food Safari gives you behind-the-scenes access to some of Suffolk’s best loved food and drink producers. We specialise in Field to Fork days: farm walks, fishing trips, and wild food forays; cookery and butchery workshops; and fabulous feasts.
Gourmet experiences from field to fork
www.foodsafari.co.uk
01728 621380
I nLondon,findingyourlocalcoffeeshopisapopularpursuit.Acoffeeshopgoodenoughforpeopletocalltheirownobviouslyhastosellgreatcoffeeandhaveagoodvibe.Itneedstobecomfortable,butalso‘cool’.AndforusattheJellied Eelthatmeansitdefinitelyhastobesociallyawareandupholdethicalbusinesspractices!Soundabitidealistic?WellMyCoffee
Stopfitsthebillonallcounts.AlthoughsituatedonPlatformOneofEnfieldChase
station,thiscafeisnotonlypopularwithcommuters-the
area’sinformedcoffeeshop-hunterscomeherespecially.HeadbaristaGunther,achampionofFairtrade,hasbeendescribedbydevotedcustomersasa‘coffeegenius’.Acharitybookswapschememeansthat,forasmall
donation,visitorscansupportthenearbyChickenshedtheatrewhileenjoyingaconstantsupplyoflow-costanddiverseliterature.AndthisisjustoneexampleofhowownersKarenandGuntherarededicatedtotheirlocalcommunity.TheyalsoenthusiasticallyencourageotherbusinessestosupportFairtrade,andeventookituponthemselvestocompileaFairtradedirectoryforthearea.By Matt Atkinson
TheJellied EelwouldliketothankMyCoffeeStopanditsstafffortheircontinuedsupport.www.mycoffeestop.co.uk
star jellied eel stockistMy Coffee Stop An 'ethicool'
coffee joint...
Areyouashop,restaurant,café,traderorcommunitycentrewithsustainablefoodatitsheartthatwantstohelpusinspreadingthewordaroundLondon?Thengetintouchwiththejelliedeel@sustainweb.orgaboutstockingtheJellied Eel.
We do!How wedded are the
royals to ethical nosh?
SPRING 2011
ISSUE 32
Freemagazine
Top of the pop-upsFruit carts roll out in LondonFood growing universities ❋ Hot cross buns ❋ Turn on to tap
London's magazine for ethical eating
0845 519 2415www.farm-direct.com
Order fresh, seasonal produce direct from local farmers and growers.
Collect your order from our Islington depot at 11 Ronalds Road N5 1XL or have it delivered to your door.
Wonderful mix of organic and free range produce. A range of meat, fish, dairy and veggies that you just don’t get through most high street shops.
40 participating local farmers and food producers, ensuring low food miles, and sustainably produced food.
No obligatory boxes, no commitments, no minimum order value: what you want, when you want!
You can now buy all your fresh food straight from local farms
An alternative to the supermarket for North Londoners:
Reader Offer!10% off your Christmas TurkeyEnter coupon code: JellTurkey
The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 19
APRIL❋ Sowingseasonisnowinfullswing.Mostcanbedoneoutdoors,butstartmoretendercropsindoors-squashes,courgettesandcucumbers.❋ Itcanbeawiseinvestmenttobuyseedlingplantsofcropssuchastomatoesandchillies,astheyarebeststartedoffearlyandrequireextraheattogerminate.❋ Ifyoustartplantsoffindoors,brushthemwithyourhandwheneveryoupass–thishelpsto‘hardenthemoff’,mimickingtheactionofthewind.
MAY❋ Prepareforplantingoutyoursquashesandcourgettes.Ideallyaddwell-rottedmanureorcompost.❋ Don’tforgettheedibleflowers,especiallythewonderfulnasturtium.Itthrivesonneglectandyoucaneatboththeleavesandflowers.❋ Forbushyplants,pinchoutthegrowingtips.Thisworkswellforbasilandchillies.
JUNE❋ Takeyourtimewhenwatering–adeepsoak,lessoften,isfarbetterthanregularrushedsprinklings.❋ Ifsaladorherbcropsarestartingtoflower,pinchthemofftoprolongtheiruse-ablelife.❋ Applynettingoverripeningsoftfruits.Abarrierwilldeterbirdsfromfeastingonforbiddenfruit!Pickfruittoeatfresh,orforjuicing,jelliesandjams.
TomMoggachofCityLeaf*
GROWING CALENDAR
Nowsupportingover850spaces
capital growth
*CityLeafprovidesfood-growingtrainingtogroupsandschools.Formoreinformation,call02074859262orseewww.cityleaf.co.uk
ABSeedsLearning your
T heSchoolofOrientalandAfricanStudieswasoneofthefirstUniversitiestojointheCapitalGrowthcampaigntocreate2012newfoodgrowingspacesby2012.ItsGoodFood
Societyaimstointroducestudentstosustainablefood,raiseawarenessofwherefoodcomesfrom,howitisproducedandhowitisused,andfoodgrowingisoneofthemainactivities.In2008,agroupofstudentsgotpermissiontoturna
litteredandovergrownpieceoflandintoanediblegarden.AgrantfromCapitalGrowthfundedtopsoil,seeds,plantsandtools,andopendaysonSaturdayswereheldforvolunteerstohelpoutinreturnforashareoftheharvest.Theynowintendtoexpandthegrowingspacetoincludeasmallforestgarden,asoftfruitcageandon-sitewaterharvesting.SOASisjustoneofanumberofuniversitiesthathave
takenupthespadeinthepastfewyears,withotherfood-growingspacesatRoehampton,Birkbeck,LSE,Westminster,CityandUCL.Nowschools,nurseries,collegesanduniversitiescouldwinarangeofprizesincludingtools,raisedbeds,fruittrees,seedsandgiftcardsaspartofCapitalGrowth’sABSeedcompetition.Thereiseventheopportunityfortwopeoplefrom
secondaryschoolsoruniversitiestospendadayshadowingtopchefsatFifteenLondon,therestaurantfoundedbyJamieOlivertoinstilinstaffandapprenticesapassionforgreatfoodandarespectfortheenvironment.Oneofthewinnersoflastyear’scompetition,which
wasopentoprimaryschools,wasSouthHaringeyInfantSchoolwherepupilscreatedabughoteltoencourageinsects.“Thisprojecthasdemonstratedhowmuchcanbeachievedinagardenandprovidesanengagingandhealthyenvironmentforpupilswhomaynothaveaccesstotheoutdoorsathome,”saysheadteacherRajRotbcha.“Theyalsogottotastethedeliciousproduce,withenoughpotatoesbeingharvestedtofeedallofthe180pupils.”
Toregisterforthecompetition,visitwww.capitalgrowth.org/abseedorcontactPaolaGuzmanatpaola@sustainweb.orgorat02078371228.Thedeadlinetoregisteris3June2011.CapitalGrowthissupportedbytheMayorofLondonandtheBigLottery’sLocalFoodFund.
Universitiesarecatchingthefoodgrowingbug,withmoreandmoreediblegardensappearingoncampuses.NowtheABSeedcompetitionisofferingthemyetanotherincentivetogetgrowing,explainsMichaelDees.
20 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org
lizaFlanaganjogsacrossthecourtyardinbarefeettogreetmeandwhisksmeupthehessiancoveredstairstohermezzanineapartment.Aswedrinkteaandtalk,apotofrainbowchardandchivesswaysinthebreeze
onthewindowsill.SheexplainshowafteraroadtriparoundAmerica,
wheresheexperiencedfirsthandthe‘farmtofork’movement-takingindinnerpartiesinfields,mobilefarmersmarkets,andcaféscelebratinglocalproduce–shereturnedinspiredanddeterminedtointegratethisphilosophyintoherkitchenandherwork.“Irealisedawhileagothatoneofthegreatest
powerswehaveisthroughourwallets,soItrytobeasconsciousaspossibleaboutthethingsIpurchase.Ibuymostofmyfoodfromfarmers'marketsandlocalshops;eventhenearbyofflicencehasstartedtoseethepotentialandisbuyinginorganicproduce”sheadds.Nowshe’sgoingonestepfurther,andsettingupalocal
pizzarestaurant,because,shesays,“it’safoodeveryoneloves”.Alongwitharangeof‘red,whiteandgreenpizzas’,therestaurantwillalsoservequalitycharcuteries,fromsmallproducersintheUK,includingmangalitzapork,ararebreedonlyreintroducedintoBritainafewyearsago.However,herambitionsdon’tstopthere.Inthelongtermsheplanstostartcuringin-houseandmakingherownricotta.“Foodandhospitalityhavealwaysbeeninmyblood,”she
says.“InAustraliamyparentsranrestaurantsandmydadstillownsavineyardthere.”HewasdisappointedwhenElizatoldhimshecouldn’tsellhiswineinhernewrestaurant.DuetoopeninHackneyinSeptember,Lardo–namedaftertheItaliancoldcut–willspecialiseinproducewherethemajorityhascomefromtheUK,andnothingfrombeyondEurope.
“InbothmykitchenandtherestaurantIwanttoeatasseasonallyaspossible,”shesays.InsteadofbuyingimportedpeppersandchilliesoverthewinterElizaplanstopicklethem.Agleamingjarofpreservedlemonsonthesideinherkitchentestifiestotheseambitions.Sheevenconsideredreplacingimportedcaperswithlocalgeraniumbudsbutdecidedthatmightbeasteptoofar.Withallthisemphasisonlocalorganicfood,theremust
besomeguiltysecrets?“Well,Idoloveeatingout-whichcanmeanit’shardertoknowwherethefoodhascomefrom,althoughmoreandmorerestaurantsarestartingtocelebratetheprovenanceofthefoodtheyserve;andIdohaveasoftspotforfreshherbs,sometimesmorethanIcanuse.”AsIgetreadytoleave,Elizabeginschoppingonionsinthe
kitchen.‘Sowhat’sfordinnertonight?’Iask:“Whitewine,barleyandbeefstew”–organicandlocalofcourse...!www.lardo.co.uk
ElizagetsafreegoodybagfromthesplendidladiesatHappyKitchenasathankyouforlettingusthroughherdoor.Ifyouwouldlikeustoconsiderputtingyourkitchenunderourmicroscope,[email protected]
Reader’s kitchen
AnnaFrancisvisitsareaderwhohasbeeninspiredtotakeherculinaryambitionstoanewlevel
e
to
Lardo
Fromlarder
Photos: Anna Francis
The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 21
London food linkKiriLewinhasbeenrunningCaféCremaintheheartofNewCrossforsixyears,togetherwithherpartnerChrisBoddington.Thecafé,withitsBurfordBrownhensinthegarden,sells
Fairtradeteaandcoffee,hotfoodandhomemadecakes.Themostlyorganicvegetablesandfree-rangeeggsaresuppliedbyaLincolnshirefarmer,foodwasteiscomposted,packagingrecycled,andthecaféisstartingtogrowsomeofitsownproduce.Kirihasalwayslovedorchards.Asayoungchildsheaccidentally
plantedawhitepeachtree,justbythrowingawayastoneinthegarden.Inhertwenties,latesummerswerespentfruit-pickinginKent.Today,twothirdsoftheUK’straditionalorchardshavebeenlost,soKiriisstartingaprojectcalledTheSecretOrchard;asmallurbanorchardofmainlyheritagemaidentrees,includingpears,applesandquinces.Itwillbeplannedandplantedbyvolunteers.KiriattendedtheCo-operative’s‘PlanBee’urbanbeekeeping
schemeatCamleyStreet,gainingexperienceandherownhiveofCarniolanhoneybees.ThehiveisinPeckham,inacommunityapiaryclosetothecafé.Sheplanstoselltheirandotherlocalbeekeepers’honeyaspartofasocialenterprise,puttingfundsbackintobeekeepingtrainingandplantingabee-friendlygarden.CaféCremahostsmanyevents,includinganannualsummer
benefitfestival(lastyear’sraised£500forHopenotHate),filmnightsand‘makedoandmend’knittingandsewingclasses.Twosewingmachinesareavailabletouseonadrop-inbasis.Forcaféandeventdetailspleasevisitwww.cafecremaevents.co.uk
Featured London Food Link memberCafé Crema
Love the Jellied Eel?JoinLondonFoodLinkandhaveacopydeliveredtoyourdooreveryquarter.LondonFoodLinkisanetworkoforganisationsandindividuals:farmersandfoodwriters,caterersandcommunityfoodprojects,restaurantsandreviewers.WeworkonincreasingtheavailabilityofsustainablefoodinLondonthroughtraining,adviceandcampaigning.TheJellied EelisafreemagazinewepublishtoraiseawarenessofethicalfoodissuesinLondonandLondon’sgrowinglocalandsustainablefoodmovement.Weareacharity.
Member benefits❋ getourmagazinetheJellied EelwithLondonnewsandarticlesdeliveredtoyourdoor❋ makeusefulLondonfoodcontacts❋ findoutwhat’sgoingonaroundLondonwithourregularemailupdatesincludinglocalfoodnewsandfundinginfo❋ invitesanddiscountedentrytoourregularLondonFoodLinksoiréesandaffiliatedtraining/events–greatfornetworkingandaccessingexpertise
How to joinOnline:Gotowww.sustainweb.org/londonfoodlink/membership,[email protected],thenclickthe‘makeapayment’link.Post:Completethisformandsenditwithachequemadepayableto‘Sustain’,to94WhiteLionStreet,LondonN19PF.
Membership form London Food Link
Name
Business/organisation
Address
Postcode
Tel
Yourwebsite/Facebook/Twitteraddress
Pleasewriteabriefsummaryofwhoyouare/yourinterestinlocalfood
£20–individualornot-for-profitcommunityproject £40–charity,socialenterpriseorcompanywithlessthan£100,000annualturnover £70–publicbody,orcompanywith£100,000–£1,000,000annualturnover £100–companywithmorethan£1,000,000annualturnover
RateIfthefeeisnot,forwhateverreason,afairreflectionofyourabilitytopaymembership,thenpleasegetintouch.Ifyouareacommunityproject,foodbusinessorlocalauthority,contactgeorgie@sustainweb.orgformoreinformationonhowyoucanbeinvolvedwithLondonFoodLink.
London Food LinkJoin us!
what’s onFarmers’ market plant fairsFrom April onwards London widePlantfairsatmostfarmers’marketsaroundLondonsellingunusualperennials,vegetableplants,herbs,fruittreesandmuchmore.www.lfm.org.uk
Pruning workshop10 April Dukes Meadows West LondonWorkshopforpruningstonefruittrees.Contactforplaces.www.abundancelondon.comPlant sale, open day and drop-in event16 April – 10-1pm Hammersmith Community GardensFreeentry,RavenscourtParkGreenhouses.Forfullprogrammeoftrainingandeventsatthissiteseewww.capitalgrowth.org/training
Wildlife friendly food growing17 April – 10:30-1:30pm PeckhamHeldatLondonWildlifeTrust’sCentreforWildlifeGardening,thisworkshopisanintroductionongrowingfruitandvegwhilsthelpingwildlife.£20(£10forLFLmembers).Forfullprogrammeoftrainingandeventsatthissiteseewww.capitalgrowth.org/training
Melvita bee event22 AprilStMartin’sCourtyard,Covent GardenOrganiccompanyMelvitaisorganisingabeeawarenessevent,includingfreehoneytastings,beeadviceandmuchmore.www.Melvita.co.uk
Real Street Food Festival 29 April – 2 MaySouthbank CentreSeep7.www.realfoodfestival.co.ukReal Food Festival 5 – 8 MayEarls CourtThe4thRealFoodFestivalwillshowcaseahugevarietyofthetalent,skillandinitiativefromtheworldof‘extraordinary’food.DemonstrationsliketheAllen’sOfMayfairButcheryTheatre,foodfromRealFoodproducersandthebeststreetfoodvendors.www.realfoodfestival.co.ukIntroductory bee keeping training course7 May Hackney City FarmThisone-dayintroductorycourseisdesignedtogiveageneralunderstandingoftheroleofbeesinsupportingwildlifeandagriculturalproductionandatasterofwhatitwouldbeliketolookafterbees.www.lowimpact.org/hackney_course_outline_beekeeping.htmGrowing in Small Spaces7 May – 10-1pm Hammersmith Community GardensRavenscourtParkGreenhouses.£20(£10forLFLmembers).Forfullprogrammeoftrainingandeventsatthissiteseewww.capitalgrowth.org/training
Soil: how to work with the life under our feet11 May – 6-9pmGrowing Communities - Allens GardensDiscoverthelifeinthesoilwewalkon,andhowwecanworkmosteffectivelywithittoproducehealthyvegetables.£20(£10forLFLmembers).Forfullprogrammeoftrainingandeventsatthissiteseewww.capitalgrowth.org/training
22 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org
Jellied Eel.indd 1 24/3/11 14:48:49
The Natural Wine Fair 15 May Borough MarketAnopportunitytotasteandbuynaturallyproducedwine,aswellasattendtastingclassesandmeetthesuppliers.ThefairispartofNaturalWineFortnight,whichrunsfrom9-22May.Seep7.www.thenaturalwinefair.com
How to start and run a supper club 21 MaySeveralofthemostcelebratedsupperclubhostswillbeholdingaconferenceonhowtorunagoodclub.SuchleadinglightsasMsMarmiteLoverfromtheUndergroundRestaurant,LynnoftheSecretTeaRoomandJamesfromTheSecretLarderwillbesharingtheirsecrets.http://marmitelover.blogspot.com
Restaurant Ramble 26 May JointhisramblearoundthebestvegetarianrestaurantsintownonThursday26May.Seep6.www.ethicaleats.orgABSeed competition3 JuneDeadlineforregistrationforfood-growingcompetition,opentonurseriesthroughtohigher/furthereducation.Seep19.www.capitalgrowth.org/schools/abseed
London Green Fair4 – 5 JuneRegents ParkBuildingonthesuccessandpopularityoftheCamdenGreenFair,thiseventinRegent’sPark‘willbeaninteractivesmorgasbordofbothseriousandsuggestivetakesontheenvironmentalissuesthataffectLondoners’.www.londongreenfair.org
Big Lunch 5 June NationwideTheBigLunchwillbekickingoffonhundreds,maybethousands,ofstreetsaroundthecountry.TheEdenProjectinitiatedthisannualeventtwoyearsagotobringneighbourhoodstogether.Findyourneareststreetpartyhere,orsetupyourown!www.thebiglunch.com
Open Garden Squares Weekend 11 – 12 JuneThisyeartherewillbelotsoffoodgrowing-spacesopeningtheirdoorstothepublic,including21CapitalGrowthspaces,mostofwhichhaven’tbeenpartofthisannualeventbefore.www.opensquares.org
Organic pest and disease control18 June – 10.30-1pm (or Wednesday 22 June 5.30-8pm) Regents ParkLearnaboutwhatthecommondiseasesandpeststhatattackyourfruitandvegetables,andlookatalternativesandnaturalmethodsfordealingwiththem.£20(£10forLFLmembers).Forfullprogrammeoftrainingandeventsatthissite,seewww.capitalgrowth.org/training
Formoreeventsgotowww.sustainweb.org/londonfoodlink/events_calendar/
Jellied Eel.indd 1 24/3/11 14:48:49
is not about making big profits for shareholders but creating value for its members.
is not about making big profits for shareholders but creating value for its members.
