473

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

ABBREVIATIONSAZ ArizonaCA CaliforniaCO ColoradoID IdahoMT MontanaNM New MexicoNV NevadaOR OregonUT UtahWA WashingtonWY Wyoming

AAbiquiu 397-8Absaroka Beartooth

Wilderness 297accommodations 450-2,

see also individual locations

Acoma Pueblo 390activities 26-9, 44-53,

see also individual activities

Adventuredome 318air travel 461-2, 463-4airlines 464airports 461-2Alabama Hills 176Alamogordo 405Albuquerque 384-9Alcatraz 135, 136-7altitude sickness 454Alvord Desert 236-7amusement parks

Adventuredome 318Disneyland 12, 90-2Disney’s California

Adventure 12, 91Knott’s Berry Farm 90Legoland 104Old Tucson Studios 359

San Francisco 131Santa Cruz 121Santa Monica Pier 78SeaWorld San Diego 98Soak City OC 90Universal Studios

Hollywood 74Anaheim 90-2Anderson Valley 158Angels Camp 166animals 288, 445-7, see also

individual speciesAntelope Canyon 356Anza-Borrego Desert State

Park 108-9Apache people 425Apache Trail 43aquariums 56

Los Angeles 79Monterey 119Newport 239San Diego 99Seattle 193

Arcata 162Arches National Park

377-8architecture 438-9Area 51 332area codes 21, 457Arizona 333-64art deco architecture 439art museums & galleries 24,

see also museumsColorado Springs Fine

Arts Center 271Denver Art Museum 247-8di Rosa Art + Nature

Preserve 154Emergency Arts 324Getty Center 76-7Hess Collection 154Los Angeles County

Museum of Art 74-5Museum of Contemporary

Art 69National Museum of

Wildlife Art 292

Phoenix Art Museum 335

Seattle Art Museum 187arts 427-8, 435-40, see also

individual artsarts-and-crafts architecture

439Ashland 232-4Aspen 267-9Aspen Music Festival 27, 268Astoria 237-8ATMs 455Atomic Age 419-20Auburn 165Avenue of the Giants 161Avila Beach 114Aztec Ruins National

Monument 401

BB&Bs 450Badwater 110Bandelier National

Monument 397baseball 334basketry 428beaches

California 62Orange County 92-3, 12San Diego 98San Francisco 133Santa Cruz 121

bears 288, 447Beartooth Highway 40-1Beat Generation 435beer 250, 433, see also

breweriesBellingham 204-5Bend 230-2Berkeley 152-4bicycle travel, see cycling,

mountain bikingBig Sur 117-18bighorn sheep 447Billings 297Billy the Kid Highway 43

birds 446bird-watching

Klamath Basin National Wildlife Refuge Complex 168

Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve 363

Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve 98

Bi-Rite 144Bisbee 363-4Bishop 175-6bison 288Bisti Badlands & De-Na-Zin

Wilderness 401Bluff 378-9boat travel 465Bob Marshall Wilderness

Complex 300Bodega Bay 159Boise 303-5Book of Mormon 369books 410, 435-6border crossings 462, 463Bosque del Apache

National Wildlife Refuge 403

Boulder (CO) 19, 255-9, 19Boulder (UT) 380Bozeman 294-6Breckenridge 263-5breweries 18, 433, 18

Aspen 269Boulder (CO) 258Colorado Springs 273Denver 253Eastern Sierra 177Estes Park 261Fort Bragg 160Fort Collins 258Pacific Northwest 181,

196, 197, 221, 222Reno 330San Diego 102

Bryce Canyon National Park 17, 381-2

budget 21

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

474

INDEX B

-E

Bureau of Land Management 451

Burning Man 328burritos 430bus travel 462, 465-6, 496business hours 21, 456butterflies 114, 119

CCactus League 27California 61-179, 64-5

climate 61food 61highlights 64-5internet resources 62itineraries 66national parks 62travel seasons 61travel to/within 62

California Adventure 12, 91Calistoga 154Cambria 116Cameron 356camping 44-6, 172, 450-1Cannon Beach 238-9canoeing & kayaking 50,

see also white-water rafting

Lake Tahoe 178Monterey 120Portland 217-18Santa Barbara 112Santa Cruz 121Seattle 192

Canyon de Chelly National Monument 19, 356

canyoneering 52-3Canyonlands National

Park 378Cape Flattery 203Cape Kiwanda 239Cape Lookout 239Cape Meares 239Cape Perpetua 240Capitan 406-7Capitol Reef National Park

379-80Capulin Volcano National

Monument 402car travel 462-3, 466-9,

467Carlsbad 408Carlsbad Caverns National

Park 407Carmel 118-19

Carson City 331casinos 272, 317-19, 328-9Cataract Canyon 378cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralsCedar Breaks National

Monument 383Cedar City 383cell phones 20, 457Central Coast 111-23Chaco Culture National

Historic Park 401-2Chama 402Chandler, Raymond 435Chapin Mesa 278Chelan 208Cheyenne 282-3children, travel with 54-6

Albuquerque 386Las Vegas 318Los Angeles 81Phoenix 340Salt Lake City 366San Francisco 139Seattle 193

Chiricahua National Monument 363

churches & cathedralsCathedral of Our Lady of

the Angels 69Cathedral of St Helena

298Grace Cathedral 130Mission Santa Barbara

111San Carlos Borroméo de

Carmelo Mission 118Cimarron 402cinema, see filmCivil Rights movement 419Clark, William 238, 415-16climate 20, 26-9, see also

individual locationsclimate change 411climbing, see rock

climbingCloudcroft 405-6Cody 284-5coffee 434Coloma 165Colorado 247-81Colorado Springs 270-3Columbia River Gorge 18,

228, 18condors 446consulates 453Cornville 342Cottonwood 342Cougar 211Coupeville 204

Crater Lake National Park 232

credit cards 455Crested Butte 273-4Cripple Creek 272cuisine 429-34culture 422-4, 425-8Cumbres & Toltec Scenic

Railroad 469currency 20Custer’s Last Stand 297customs regulations 452cycling 48-9, 464-5, 469,

see also mountain biking

Aspen 267Bellingham 205Bend 231Bighorn Mountains 293Boulder (CO) 255Colorado 263Crested Butte 273Durango 279Flagstaff 343Grand Canyon National

Park 351Lopez Island 207Missoula 299Monterey 120Phoenix 336Port Angeles 203Portland 217San Francisco 138Sandia Peak Ski Park

386Santa Barbara 112Seattle 192Steamboat Springs 262Sun Valley 305Telluride 277Vail 266Yellowstone National

Park 288

Ddangers, see safe travelDead Horse Point State

Park 378Death Valley National Park

109-11dehydration 454Denver 247-55, 248

accommodations 250-1activities 250climate 241drinking 252-3entertainment 253-4festivals & events 250food 251-2

shopping 254sights 247-9tourist information 254travel to/from 254travel within 254-5

Devil’s Tower National Monument 293

Dinosaur National Monument 374-5

dinosaurs 105disabilities, travelers with

458-9discount cards 452Disneyland 12, 90-2Disney’s California

Adventure 12, 91distilleries 123diving & snorkeling 52

Channel Islands National Park 112

La Jolla 98Monterey 119, 120

drinks 433-4driver’s licenses 466driving, see car traveldriving tours 35-43, see

also road trips, scenic drives

drought 411drugs 455Dry Creek Valley 158dude ranches 451Dunsmuir 167-8Durango 278-9Durango & Silverton

Narrow Gauge Railroad 279, 469

DVD regions 458

Eeagles 446earthquakes 441Eastern Sierra Scenic

Byway 43economy 411El Morro National

Monument 390El Santuario de Chimayo 396electricity 453elephant seals 117Elgin 363elk 292, 447Elko 332Ellensburg 212embassies 453emergencies 21Enterprise 236environmental hazards 454environmental issues

411, 448

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

475IN

DEX E-H Escalante 381Estes Park 260-1etiquette

food 430Native American people

426photography 456tipping 430, 456

Eugene 226-8Eureka 161-2events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 21

Ffarmers markets, see also

marketsArcata 162Olympia 200San Francisco 142San Luis Obispo 115Seattle 186

Farmington 401fauna 445-7Ferry Building 127, 142, 23festivals & events 26-9,

see also film, food, music, Native American people, individual locations

Fidalgo Island 204film 410, 437-8

festivals 138, 193, 275-6, 372, 437

filming locations 22-3, 73, 74, 359

studio tours 73, 74fire 411fishing

Missoula 299Montana 296Stanley 308

Flagstaff 343-5Flathead Lake 300floods 255, 411flora 442food 23, 429-34, 453, see

also individual locationsfestivals 218, 250

Forks 204Fort Bragg 160Four Corners Navajo Tribal

Park 357Freestone 158

GGallatin Valley 296-7galleries, see art museums

& galleries

Gallup 390Garberville 161gay marriage 424gay travelers 453

Los Angeles 85Portland 222San Francisco 146

geographical features 441-5

geology 22, 441, 444-5, 445

Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument 404

Gila National Forest 404Glacier National Park 19,

301-2, 19, 39Glacier Point 170Glass Mountain 169Glen Canyon National

Recreation Area 355-6Going-to-the-Sun Road 41,

42, 301gold rush 416-17Golden Gate Bridge 135Grand Canyon geology

444-5, 445Grand Canyon National

Park 11, 348-54, 350, 5, 11

Grand Canyon Railway 345, 469

Grand Canyon West 355Grand Coulee Dam 210Grand Staircase-Escalante

National Monument 380-1

Grand Teton National Park 290-2, 286

Grants Pass 234-5Grass Valley 165Great American Beer

Festival 29Great Basin 331-2Great Salt Lake 370Great Sand Dunes National

Park 281Green River 375Griffith Observatory 74grunge music 181Guadalupe 114Guerneville 157

HHalf Moon Bay 123Halloween Carnival 29Hammett, Dashiell 435Havasu Canyon 354-5Havasupai people 425-6Hayden Valley 288

Haystack Rock 238Healdsburg 158health 453-4Hearst, William Randolph

116Hearst Castle 116heat exhaustion 454Helena 297-8Hells Canyon 236Hemingway, Ernest 306Hetch Hetchy 170-1High Road to Taos 41-2Highway 12 41, 381Highway 89/89A 38, 356hiking 24, 46-8

Aramark Mesa Verde 278Boise 304Boulder (UT) 380California 61Chaco Culture National

Historic Park 402Cloudcroft 405Colorado 250, 276Colorado Springs 271Denver 250Echo Canyon Trail 363Ghost Ranch 398Glacier National Park

301Grand Canyon National

Park 349, 351Grand Teton National

Park 290Great Sand Dunes

National Park 281Humphreys Peak 343Kings Canyon National

Park 174Lake Powell 356Lake Quinault 202Los Angeles 80Lost Coast 161Marin Headlands 151Missoula 299Mt Hood 229Mt Ranier 211Mt St Helens 211Palm Springs 104-5Phoenix 336Quandary Peak 265Rocky Mountain National

Park 259Ruidoso 406Saguaro National Park

359Salt Lake City 367San Juan Hut Systems

276Sandia Crest National

Scenic Byway 386

Santa Fe 391-2Southwest 310Springdale 383Sun Valley 305Taos 399Telluride 277Vail 266Wallowa Mountains 236Yellowstone National

Park 285-8Yosemite National

Park 171Historic Columbia River

Highway 43historic sites 25history 412-21

Atomic Age 419-20Civil Rights movement

419Clark, William 415-16European arrival 414-15gold rush 416-17Great Depression 419Long Walk 417Meriwether, Lewis 415-16Native American people

413-14, 417technology industry 421water wars 418WWII 419-20

Hoh River Rainforest 202holidays 457Hollywood 73, 437-8, 75, 11Hood River 228Hoover Dam 327-8Hopi people 355, 426horseback riding 52

Kodachrome Basin State Park 381

Moab 376Phoenix 336-7Saguaro National Park

359Winter Park 263

Horseshoe Bend 356hostels 451hot springs, see also spas

North Umpqua River 235Oregon 226Ouray 274Paradise Valley 296Steamboat Springs 262Yellowstone National

Park 285hot-air ballooning 52hotels 451-2Hovenweep National

Monument 379Hualapai people 427

476

INDEX H

-M

Humphreys Peak 343Huntington Library 79-80Hurricane Ridge 201hypothermia 454

IIdaho 303-8Idaho Panhandle 308immigration 424, 460, 461Independence 268insurance

car 466-7health 453-4travel 454

internet access 454-5internet resources 21,

see also individual locations

itineraries 30-4, 30, 31, 33, 34, see also individual locations

JJackson 292-4Jacksonville 234Jenner 159Jerome 11, 342, 347-8, 11jewelry 428John Day Fossil Beds

National Monument 235

Joseph 236Joshua Tree National Park

106-8, 47

KKanab 382Kartchner Caverns State

Park 363kayaking, see canoeing &

kayakingKetchum 305-7Kingman 358Kings Canyon National

Park 173-5Kitt Peak National

Observatory 362Klamath Basin National

Wildlife Refuge Complex 168

Knott’s Berry Farm 90Kodachrome Basin State

Park 381

LLaguna Beach 93, 12Lake Chelan 208Lake City 274Lake Crescent 201Lake Havasu City 358Lake Mead 327Lake Powell 355-6Lake Quinault 202Lake Tahoe 177-9Lamar Valley 288Lander 283-4language 20Laramie 283-4Las Cruces 403-4Las Vegas (NM) 397Las Vegas (NV) 10, 314-27,

316, 10accommodations 320-2activities 320children, travel with 318drinking 324-5entertainment 325-6food 322-4history 314-15information 326shopping 326sights 315-20tourist information 326travel to/from 326-7travel within 326-7

Lassen Peak 169Lava Beds National

Monument 168Leavenworth 208legal matters 455Leggett 161Legoland 104lesbian travelers 453

Los Angeles 85Portland 222San Francisco 146

Lewis, Meriwether 238Lincoln 406-7Lincoln National Forest 407literature 410, 435-6lodges 452Lopez Island 207Los Alamos 397Los Angeles 11, 66-89,

68-9, 70-1, 75, 76-7, 79, 11

accommodations 81-2activities 80children, travel with 81climate 61drinking 85entertainment 86-7

festivals & events 80-1food 82-4internet resources 88itineraries 67shopping 87sights 67-80tourist information 87-8tours 73, 74, 80travel to/from 88travel within 88-9

Los Olivos 114

Mmagazines 458mammals 446-7margaritas 434Marin County 151-2Marin Headlands 151markets, see also farmers

marketsAuburn 166Los Angeles 87Portland 215Santa Fe 393, 395, 440Seattle 186

measures 458medical services 453-4Medicine Bow Mountains

293Medicine Lake 169Mendocino 159Meriwether, Lewis 415-16Mesa Verde National Park

277-8Methow Valley 208-9Meyer, Stephenie 204microbreweries, see

breweriesMillion Dollar Highway

38-40Missoula 298-9Moab 375-7mobile phones 20, 457Mojave National Preserve

109Mokelumne Hill 166money 20, 21, 455-6moneychangers 455Mono Lake 175Montana 294-302Monterey 119-21Monument Valley Navajo

Tribal Park 19, 357, 379, 19, 23

Mormonism 367Morro Bay 116motels 452motorcycle travel 462-3,

466-9

Mount Hood Railroad 469Mt Anderson 201Mt Baker 207Mt Hood 229-30Mt Rainier National Park

14, 210-11, 14Mt Shasta 167, 168Mt St Helens 211Mt Whitney 176mountain biking, see also

cyclingCloudcroft 405 Moab 376Santa Fe 391-2Sedona 347Springdale 383Taos 399

multiculturalism 424Murphys 166museums 24, see also art

museums & galleriesAmerican International

Rattlesnake Museum 385

Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum 359

Columbia River Maritime Museum 237

Exploratorium 131Georgia O’Keeffe

Museum 391Getty Villa 78Grammy Museum 72Griffith Observatory 74Heard Museum 334High Desert Museum

230Huntington Library 79-80Indian Pueblo Cultural

Center 385-6Klondike Gold Rush

National Historical Park 187

Maritime Museum, San Diego 95

Millicent Rogers Museum 398

Mob Museum 319Moraine Park Museum

259Museum of New Mexico

391, 17Natural History Museum

of Utah 366New Mexico Farm &

Ranch Heritage Museum 403

USS Midway Museum 95music 436-7

festivals 27, 138, 256, 268, 275

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

47 7IN

DEX N-P

NNapa 154Napa Valley 10, 154-6, 10National Elk Refuge 292national parks & parklands

24, 45, 62, 242, 310, 456, see also parks & gardens, state parks

Arches National Park 377-8

Bryce Canyon National Park 17, 381-2

California 62Canyonlands National

Park 378Capitol Reef National

Park 379-80Carlsbad Caverns

National Park 407Cathedral Gorge State

Park 332Channel Islands National

Park 112Coconino National

Forest 346Death Valley National

Park 109-11Devils Postpile National

Monument 175Flaming Gorge National

Recreation Area 375Glacier National Park 19,

301-2, 19, 39Grand Canyon National

Park 11, 348-54, 350, 5, 11

Grand Teton National Park 290-2, 286

Great Basin National Park 332

Great Sand Dunes National Park 281

Joshua Tree National Park 106-8, 47

Kings Canyon National Park 173-5

Lassen Volcanic National Park 169

Lewis and Clark National & State Historical Parks 238

Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument 297

Manzanar National Historic Site 176

Mesa Verde National Park 277-8

Modoc National Forest 169

Mojave National Preserve 109

Mt Rainier National Park 14, 210-11, 14

Muir Woods National Monument 152

North Cascades National Park 209

Olympic National Park 201

Petrified Forest National Park 357-8

Pinnacles National Park 115

Point Reyes National Seashore 152

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area 327

Redwood National Park 162

Rocky Mountain National Park 16, 259-60, 16

Saguaro National Park 359, 15

Sequoia National Park 173

Texas 181Uinta-Wasatch-Cache

National Forest 371Yellowstone National

Park 9, 285-90, 286, 8-9

Yosemite National Park 12, 169-73, 13, 47

Zion National Park 17, 382-3, 17

Native American people 425-8, 16

culture 16festivals 387history 417, 413-14museums 391sites 356, 356-7

Natural Bridges National Monument 379

Navajo Nation 356-7Navajo people 427, 16Neah Bay 203Nevada 311-32Nevada City 165New Mexico 384-408New Mexico art 440Newberry National Volcanic

Monument 232Newport 239-40Newspaper Rock

Recreation Area 378newspapers 458North Cascade Mountains

207-9North Umpqua River 235Northern California 154-69

OOccidental 157-8Ojo Caliente 398OK Corral 363Old Tuscon Studios 359Old West sites 11, 22, 11Olympia 200-1Olympic Peninsula 201-4O’Neill, Eugene 435opening hours 21, 456Orange County 12, 92-3, 12Orcas Island 206-7Oregon 213-40Oregon Cascades 228-32Oregon Caves National

Monument 235Oregon Dunes National

Recreation Area 240Organ Pipe Cactus National

Monument 362Ouray 274-5

PPacific Coast Highway

36-8, 15Pacific Northwest 180-240,

182-3accommodations 180climate 180food 180highlights 182-3history 184-5internet resources 181itineraries 184travel to/from 185travel within 185

Page 356Palm Springs 104-6Palm Springs & the

Deserts 104-11Paradise Valley 296-7Paramount Pictures 73Park City 371-4parks & gardens, see

also national parks & parkland, state parks

Alamo Square Park 134Audrey Headframe

Park 348Chautauqua Park 255Confluence Park 249Crissy Field 133Desert Botanical Garden

334-5Discovery Park 192Forest Park 215Garden of the Gods 271Grand Canyon Skywalk

355

Griffith Park 73San Francisco Botanical

Garden 135Tilden Regional Park 153Tom McCall Waterfront

Park 213-14passports 459, 461Patagonia 362-3Patagonia-Sonoita Creek

Preserve 363Pecos Wilderness 391-2Petrified Forest National

Park 357-8Phoenix 334-43, 336-7

accommodations 337-9activities 336-7children, travel with 340drinking 341entertainment 341festivals & events 337food 339-40shopping 341-2sights 334-6tourist information 342tours 337travel to/from 342-3travel within 342-3

phonecards 457photography 456, 457Pike Place Market 186Pikes Peak 270-1Pinnacles National Park 115Pioneertown 107Pismo Beach 114planning

budgeting 20-1calendar of events 26-9children, travel with 54-6internet resources 21itineraries 30-4, 30, 31,

33, 34travel seasons 20-1, 26-9Western USA basics 20-1Western USA’s regions

57-8plants 442Plymouth 166politics 410polygamy 367Ponderosa Pine Scenic

Byway 307population 411, 424Port Angeles 203Port Orford 240Port Townsend 202-3Portland 13, 213-25,

216, 13accommodations 218-19activities 217-18

478

INDEX P

-S

Portland continueddrinking & nightlife 221-2entertainment 222-3festivals & events 218food 219-21shopping 223-4sights 213-17tourist information 224tours 218travel to/from 224travel within 224-5

postal services 456-7postmodern architecture

439pottery 428Prescott 348pronghorn antelope 447public holidays 457Pueblo people 427

QQuandary Peak 265

RRachel 332radio 458rafting, see white-water

raftingRedding 167redwoods 161, 162religion 411, 424Reno 328-31resorts 25Rhyolite 110road distances chart 467road rules 468-9road trips 15, 35-43, see

also scenic drivesApache Trail 43Beartooth Highway

40-1, 290Big Sur 117-18Billy the Kid Highway 43Colorado 268, 274Eastern Sierra Scenic

Byway 43Going-to-the-Sun Road

41, 42, 301High Road to Taos 41-2Highway 12 41, 381Highway 89/89A 38, 356Historic Columbia River

Highway 43Million Dollar Highway

38-40

Pacific Coast Highway 36-8, 37, 15

Route 66 13, 35-6, 346, 37, 39

Turquoise Trail 43rock climbing 52-3

Bend 231Boulder (CO) 255-6Castle Rock 208Estes Park 261Grand Teton National

Park 290Ouray 274Yosemite National

Park 171Rocky Mountain National

Park 16, 259-60, 16Rocky Mountains 241-308,

244-5accommodations 241activities 242climate 241, 246food 241, 257highlights 244-5internet resources 242itineraries 243national parks 242travel seasons 241travel to/from 246travel within 246

rodeos 282Roswell 407-8Route 66 13, 35-6, 346,

37, 39Ruidoso 406Russian River Valley 10,

157-8

SSacramento 163-5safe travel

environmental hazards 454

Los Angeles 87Mexican border 463road conditions &

hazards 468Salem 226sales tax 455Salida 269-70Salmon River Scenic

Byway 307Salmon Ruin & Heritage

Park 401Salt Lake City 365-70

accommodations 367activities 365-7children, travel with 366drinking 368-9

entertainment 369food 367-8information 369-70shopping 369sights 365-7tours 367tourist information 370travel to/from 370travel within 370

Salton Sea 108Salvation Mountain 108San Diego 93-103, 94, 96-7

accommodations 99activities 99drinking 102entertainment 102-3food 100-2sights 93-9tourist information 103tours 99travel to/within 103

San Francisco 9, 124-51, 125, 126, 128-9, 9

accommodations 139-41activities 135, 138children, travel with 139drinking 145-7entertainment 147-9festivals & events 138-9food 141-5itineraries 124shopping 149sights 124-35tourist information

149-50tours 138travel to/from 150travel within 150-1walking tour 132, 132

San Francisco & the Bay Area 124-54

San Ildefonso Pueblo 396San Juan Islands 14,

205-7, 14San Juan Mountain Passes

274San Luis Obispo 115-16Sand Mountain Recreation

Area 332Sandia Crest National

Scenic Byway 386Sandia Man Cave 386Santa Barbara 111-13Santa Clara Pueblo 396-7Santa Cruz 121-3Santa Fe 17, 390-6,

392-3, 17Santa Fe National Forest

391-2

Sawtooth Scenic Byway 307

scenic drives 15, 43, 37, see also road trips

Arizona 335, 358, 363Grand Canyon National

Park 349, 351Idaho 307New Mexico 389Oregon 239Rockies 290San Juan mountain

passes 274Sierra Nevada 174Utah 371, 381, 382

scuba diving, see diving & snorkeling

seals 117Seattle 14, 186-200,

188-9, 14accommodations 193-4activities 192children, travel with 193drinking 196-7entertainment 197-8festivals & events 193food 194-6nightlife 196-7shopping 198sights 186-92tourist information 198-9tours 192-3travel to/from 199travel within 199-200

SeaWorld San Diego 98Sebastopol 157Sedona 345-7Sequoia National Park 173sequoias 170, 173Shakespeare, William 233Shasta Lake 167Shelter Cove 161Sheridan 293Shiprock 401shopping, see farmers

markets, markets, individual locations

Sierra Nevada 169-79Silver City 404-5Silverton 280-1Sisters 230skiing & snowboarding 50-1

Aspen 267, 268Bend 231Bozeman 294-5Breckenridge 264Colorado 263Crested Butte 273-4Durango 279

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

479IN

DEX S-U

Flagstaff 343Jackson 292Kings Canyon National

Park 174Lake Tahoe 178Mt Baker 207Mt Hood 229Ouray 274Park City 371-2Ruidoso 406Salt Lake City 371Sandia Peak Ski Park

386Santa Fe 392Steamboat Springs

261-2Sun Valley 305Taos 399Telluride 275Truckee 178Vail 266Winter Park 263Yosemite National

Park 171Skunk Train 469Slow Food movement 431snorkeling, see diving &

snorkelingsnowboarding, see skiing &

snowboardingsnowshoeing 51Snowy Range 293Solvang 114Sonoita 363Sonoma Valley 10, 156-7Sony Pictures Studios 73Southern California Coast

90-104Southwest 309-408,

312-13accommodations 309activities 310climate 309food 309highlights 312itineraries 314national parks 310tourist information 314travel seasons 309travel to/from 310

Southwestern art 440Spaceport America 403Spanish mission

architecture 438-9spas 25, 135, see also hot

springsSpokane 209-10sports 422Springdale 383St George 383-4

St Helena 154Stanley 307-8state parks, see also

national parks & parkland, parks & gardens

Andrew Molera State Park 118

Año Nuevo State Park 123

Antelope Island State Park 370

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park 108-9

Bodie State Historic Park 175

California 62Cape Blanco State Park

240Cape Lookout State

Park 239Cimarron Canyon State

Park 402City of Rocks State

Park 404Columbia State Historic

Park 166Dead Horse Point State

Park 378Deception Pass State

Park 204Del Norte Coast

Redwoods State Park 162

Donner Memorial State Park 178

Dosewallips State Park 201

Ecola State Park 238Emerald Bay State

Park 178Golden Gate Canyon

State Park 250Humboldt Redwoods

State Park 161Humbug Mountain State

Park 240Jack London State

Historic Park 156Jedediah Smith

Redwoods State Park 162

Jerome State Historic Park 348

Kartchner Caverns State Park 363

Kodachrome Basin State Park 381

La Purísima Mission State Historic Park 114

Lake Chelan State Park 208

Lake Cushman State Park 201

Lake Tahoe-Nevada State Park 178

Lime Kiln Point State Park 206

Living Desert State Park 408

Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park 165

Montaña de Oro State Park 116

Moran State Park 206Mt Tamalpais State Park

151-2Old Town State Historic

Park 98Patrick’s Point State

Park 162Pfeiffer Big Sur State

Park 118Point Lobos State

Natural Reserve 118Prairie Creek Redwoods

State Park 162Railtown 1897 State

Historic Park 166Salt Point State Park 159Slide Rock State Park

346Smokey Bear Historical

State Park 407Southwest region 310Staunton State Park 250Sutter’s Fort State

Historic Park 164Torrey Pines State

Natural Reserve 98Valley of Fire State

Park 327Van Damme State

Park 159Steamboat Springs

261-2Steens Mountain 236-7Stehekin 208Steinbeck, John 435subway travel 469Sun Valley 305-7Sundance Film Festival

26, 372Supai 355surfing 49

Bodega Bay 159Los Angeles 80Orange County 92San Diego 99Santa Cruz 121

Surprise Valley 169Sutter Creek 166

TTahoe City 178Taos 17, 398-401taxes 455taxi travel 469-70technology 411telephone services 20, 457television industry 438Telluride 263, 275-7theater

Boulder 258Los Angeles 86Portland 223Salt Lake City 369San Francisco 148-9Santa Fe 395

theme parks, see amusement parks

time 20, 458Tioga Pass 169tipping 456Tombstone 363Torrey 380tourist information 458,

see also individual locations

tours, see individual locations

train travel 463, 469, 470travel to Alaska 464-5travel to Hawaii 464-5travel to Mexico 463travel to/from Western

USA 461-3travel within Western USA

463-70traveler’s checks 456trekking, see hikingTrinidad 162Trinity Alps 167Truckee 178-9Truth or Consequences

403Tucson 358-62Tuolumne Meadows 170Turquoise Trail 43TV 458Twilight 204

UUkiah 161Universal Studios

Hollywood 74University of California,

Berkeley 152University of California,

Los Angeles 77Utah 364-84

480

INDEX V

-Z

Vvacations 457Vagabond Ranch 264Vail 265-7vegetarian travelers 434Vernal 374Very Large Array 404Virginia City 331visas 20, 459-60visual arts 439-40

Wwalking, see hikingwalking tours 132, 132Wallowa Mountains 236Warner Bros Studios 73Warner Mountains 169Wasatch Mountains 370-4Washington 186-213water conservation issues

448waterfalls 205

Multnomah 228Wapama 171Yosemite National

Park 170Wawona 170

weather 20, 26-9, see also individual locations

Weaverville 167weaving (Navajo) 428weights 458Wetherill Mesa 278whale-watching 51

Monterey 120San Juan Islands 205

Whidbey Island 204White Sands National

Monument 405Whitefish 300-1white-water rafting 50,

see also canoeing & kayaking

Arkansas River 270Bluff 378Colorado River 353Green River 375Moab 376Salida 269Santa Fe 392Stanley 307Steamboat Springs 262Taos 399Vernal 374

Yellowstone National Park 288

Wild Rogue Wilderness 234-5

wildfires 448wildlife 288, 445-7, see also

individual speciesWigwam Motel 13, 346, 13Willamette Valley 225-8Williams 345Windy Ridge 211wine 433-4wine regions 10, 23-4, 434

Arizona 342Healdsburg 158Napa Valley 10, 154-6, 10Paso Robles 116Russian River Valley 10,

157-8Santa Barbara 114Sonoma Valley 10, 156-7Verde Valley 342Walla Walla 212-13Willamette Valley 225Yakima Valley 212

Winnemucca 331-2Winslow 357

Winter Park 263winter sports 50-1wolves 288women travelers 460WWII 419-20Wyoming 281-94

YYachats 240Yakima 212Yellowstone National Park

9, 285-90, 286, 8-9Yosemite National Park 12,

169-73, 13, 47Yountville 154

ZZephyr Cove 177Zion National Park 17,

382-3, 17zoos

Los Angeles 74Palm Springs 104San Diego 96, 103-4Seattle 193

Zuni Pueblo 390

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

471471

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec-dotes: Erika Hellin, Georgina Pitts, Rudolf Rolelofsen, Stefan Zinte

AUTHOR THANKS Amy C BalfourBig thanks to my friends and experts in the Southwest, with special kudos to BLM maestro Chris Rose for his invaluable Nevada insights and Elvis knowledge. Thanks also to Justin Shepherd, Tracer Finn, Jim Christian, Alex Amato, Mike Roe, Catrien van Assendelft, Lewis Pipkin, Sara Benson, Dan Westermeyer and fellow adventurers Sandee McGlaun, Lisa McGlaun, Paul Hanstedt and Grand Canyon power walker Karen Schneider.

Sandra BaoThanks to my husband Ben Greensfelder, who kept our home (mostly) intact while I was off researching. Kudos to my top-notch coordinat-ing authors on the Pacific Northwest (whose information I adapted for this book), Celeste Brash and Brendan Sainsbury. A big hug to commissioning editor Suki Gear – thanks for the gig and best of luck in your coming life adventures. And finally, I could not have done

this book without the support of my parents and brother.

Michael BenavavBig thanks to Suki for convincing me to drive to all the little corners of this state that I love, and for her pitch-perfect blend of professionalism and humor. Also to Kelly and Luke, who always let me go, and always let me come back.

Greg BenchwickSpecial thanks to my friend and commission-ing editor Suki, my coordinating author and the rest of the Lonely Planet team.

Sara BensonThanks to Suki Gear, Sasha Baskett, Alison Lyall, Regis St Louis and everyone at Lonely Planet for making this book happen. I’m grate-ful to everyone I met on the road, from park rangers to beer geeks and foodies, who gener-ously shared their local expertise. Big thanks to my Golden State friends and family, especially the Picketts, Starbins and Boyles. Jonathan, you kept on driving, even when you didn’t know exactly where we’d end up – thank you.

Alison BingHeartfelt thanks to Lonely Planet guidebook mastermind Suki Gear, managing editor Sasha Baskett, and co-author and fellow adventurer John Vlahides; to intrepid research compan-ions Sahai Burrowes, Haemin Cho, Lisa Park,

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

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Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

472

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Yosh Han, Rebecca Bing, Tony Cockrell and Akua Parker; but above all to Marco Flavio Marinucci, who made a Muni bus ride into the trip of a lifetime.

Celeste BrashThanks to my family for helping me research beaches and mountains some days, and get-ting on at home without me on others. To old friends who I found scattered across Wash-ington: Oliver Irwin, Kati Halmos Jones, Dan Jones, the Forster family and Jackie Capalan-Auerbach. And to new friends I made: too many to mention!

Lisa DunfordSo many kindred spirits on the Utah road – thanks to all, including Karla Player for the beautiful craftsmanship. Karen and John, it was great having a chat. And I’m so glad I got to reconnect with my friend Trista Kelin Rayner; wishing her and daughter Mechelle all the best.

Carolyn McCarthyI’m indebted to the good people of the Rocky Mountains. Special thanks to Lance and his Ouray friends for the bed and BBQ, Melissa and Steve for the Billings grand tour, the amazing Jones in Steamboat and Jennifer in Crested Butte. Richard and Rachel were the best drivers and companions. Thanks to Coraline, for steadfast motoring, and the generous Conan Bliss. Virtual beers go out to Regis St Louis, Greg Benchwick and Chris Pitts for being great to work with.

Brendan SainsburyThanks to all the untold bus drivers, tourist info volunteers, restaurateurs, coffee baristas and indie punk rockers who helped me during my research. Special thanks to my wife Liz and seven-year-old son Kieran for their com-pany on the road.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633¬44.

Illustration pp136-7 by Michael Weldon.

Cover photograph: Monument Valley, Arizona–Utah, Alan Copson/AWL.

THIS BOOK This 2nd edition of Lonely Plan-et’s Western USA guidebook was researched and written by Amy C Balfour, Sandra Bao, Michael Benanav, Greg Bench-wick, Sara Benson, Alison Bing, Celeste Brash, Lisa Dunford, Carolyn McCarthy, Chris Pitts and Brendan Sainsbury. Amy, Michael, Sara, Alison, Lisa, Carolyn and Brendan also contributed to the previous edi-tion, along with Andrew Bender, Nate Cavalieri, Sarah Chandler, Bridget Gleeson, Beth Kohn,

Bradley Mayhew, Andrea Schulte-Peevers and John A Vlahides. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Oakland office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Suki GearCoordinating Editors Katie O’Connell, Martine PowerSenior Cartographer Alison LyallBook Designer Wendy WrightAssociate Product Directors Sasha Baskett, Angela Tinson

Senior Editors Catherine Naghten, Karyn NobleAssisting Editor Kate JamesAssisting Layout De-signer Virginia MorenoCover Research Naomi ParkerThanks to Brendan Demp-sey, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Briohny Hooper, Genesys India, Jouve India, Indra Kilfoyle, Chad Parkhill, Trent Paton, Alison Ridgway, Dianne Schallmeiner, Lyahna Spencer, John Taufa, Amanda William-son, Juan Winata

486

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot Baths/OnsenShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

Airport

Border crossingBART station

BusBoston T station

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/Muni station

Petrol stationSubway/SkyTrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’