C I R C A D I A ® 2020 Next Generation Vitamins in Topical Skincare Circadia by Dr. Pugliese Michael Q. Pugliese C I R C A D I A ® 2020 What makes something a Vitamin? A vitamin is an essential nutrient that the body cannot produce. Therefore it must be obtained from an outside source, normally from diet or a supplement. Many vitamins have key functions in the skin. C I R C A D I A ® 2020 Vitamin A 3 What is it? How does it work? How can we use it? C I R C A D I A ® 2020 What is Vitamin A Vitamin A is a substance that the body cannot make. It is also classified as a hormone. This is the alcohol, or natural form
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C I R C A D I A ® 2020
Next Generation Vitamins in Topical Skincare
Circadia by Dr. Pugliese
Michael Q. Pugliese
C I R C A D I A ® 2020
What makes something a Vitamin?
A vitamin is an essential nutrient that the body cannot produce. Therefore it must be obtained from an outside source, normally from diet or a supplement. Many vitamins have key functions in the skin.
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Vitamin A
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What is it?
How does it work?
How can we use it?
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What is Vitamin AVitamin A is a substance that the body cannot make. It is also classified as a hormone.
This is the alcohol, or natural form
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Chemistry of Vitamin A
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Vitamin A does not occur in plants. Only the precursor of vitamin A, beta carotene, is found in plants, Natural vitamin A does occur in most animals.
morphogenesis• Immune response • Growth-Skeletal• Fertility-Male and Female
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Vitamin A and Skin• Cell differentiation (plumps epidermis), compacts
stratum corneum
• Increases collagen and elastin
• Reduce collagenase
• Protects against ultraviolet damage
How Vitamin A Works• Vitamin A is a hormone that aids in cell transcription.• To function it has a receptor in the cell.• The receptor guides the vitamin A to DNA
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Retinol
Retinoic acid receptor
Retinoic acid receptor
Complex (RARC)_
RARC bond to DNA
Nucleus
Cell differentiation Protein synthesis
Many others
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Forms of Vitamin A
• Retinol - the natural form
• Retinyl acetate - an ester form
• Retinyl palmitate- an ester form
• Retinyl proprionate- an ester form
• Retinaldehyde- limited availability• Retenoic Acid- perscription only
Skin Type Indications: Aging skin, or skin requiring rejuvenation
Benefits: • Increase cell turnover• Wrinkle reduction• Increase firmness • Gel base
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Vitamin A Accelerator
• Self Neutralizing• Clients can expect mild to heavy peeling • These peels should not be combined with any other treatments or
services unless specified
Indications: Suitable for all skin types- aging, dry, fine lines, lightening of post-inflammatory pigmentation, photo damaged ContraindicationsVitamin A sensitivity, pregnant or nursing, open wounds or suspicious lesions, highly sensitive skin types. Retinol 2.5%- Promotes cell turnover, Increases collagen and elastin through fibroblast stimulation
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Vitamin C• What is Vitamin C?• How does it work?• What is it used for?• What forms are Available?
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Functions of C
• Vitamin C is a water soluble reducing agent, helps stabilize unstable molecules.• Assists in the formation of
collagen. •Works as a Tyrosinase inhibitor.
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Ascorbic Acid
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Review of Free radicals
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A free radical is an atom or molecule with one or more unpaired electrons and is capable of
come from?•What forms are available?• How do they work?• How can we use it?
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Vitamin E
Discovered in 1922 and found to be essential for reproduction by Herbert Evans.
Tocopherol is the most widely used form of vitamin E and comes from the greekwords for tokos meaning “childbirth” and pherein meaning “to carry”.
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Vitamin E in the Cell
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The Barrier
The skin is a delicate balance of both oil and water-soluble materials. One of our most important focuses in promoting skin health is the maintaining of the lipid barrier.
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Two Basic Types
Tocopherols
Tocotrienols
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Tocopherols
There are four types of tocopherols. Alpha, Beta, Gamma, and Delta. The name is given by the variation of the positioning of the methyl group on the molecule. There are many natural sources of tocopherols but the vast majority use in cosmetics are synthesized. Most of which is racemic alpha-tocopheryl acetate and also tocopheryl nicotinate and tocopheryllinoleate.
Similarly there are four forms of tocotrienols. They have a very flexible unsaturated carbon chain making them more easily incorporated into the cell membrane. However, there are currently no commercially availably sources other than in very expensive research quantities. The following is a list of natural oil sources containing tocotrienols.
• Palm oil contains alpha, beta, gamma and delta tocotrienols, highest in gamma• Rice bran oil contains alpha and gamma,
higher in gamma. • Wheat germ oil contains alpha and beta,
higher in beta.Barley oil contains alpha, beta and gamma, highest in alpha.• Oat oil contains alpha and gamma higher in
alpha.
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Role of Vitamin E and Skin
•Protection from UV light damage.•Maintenance of barrier function and cell membrane.• Treating hypertrophic scaring.
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Maintenance of barrier function
•Once UV produces the Ros and other photo products, the damage is in place and the skin cannot function properly. Accelerated water loss, bacterial invasion, protein and DNA damage run rampant, promoting premature signs of aging and skin cancers. However the process can be slowed by vitamin E.
Key Ingredients:Panthenol (provitamin B5) - Regenerative, soothingHibiscus Eco extract - antioxidants. Rich in polysaccharides that have moisturizing benefits.Sesame oil - An emollient that is an excellent source of Vitamin EVitamin E (Tocopheryl acetate) - Very powerful fat-soluble antioxidantSonneBorn Lilac® (C14-22 Alkane) - Emollient, D5 silicone alternative
EXSYMOL S.A.M. - 4 avenue Albert II - MC 98000 MONACOTél. : +377 92 05 66 77 - Fax : +377 92 05 25 02 - mail : [email protected] - www.exsymol.com
CHRONOCYCLIN® synchronizing activity
Our studies on reconstructed epidermis show that circadian genes such as CLOCK and PERIOD-1 are activated periodically following the biorhythm after initiation by UV radiation. The use of CHRONOCYCLIN® on reconstructed epidermis in dark environment demonstrated that our product is able to imitate the UV signal and to induce circadian genes expression.
CHRONOCYCLIN® stimulates the natural periodicity of expression of the circadian genes in order to have the best correlation between cutaneous cells physiological activities and the environmental constraints.
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Expression of gene CLOCK
Time (hours)
CHRONOCYCLIN®
Sun radiation
Stimuli
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Sun radiation
Expression of gene Per.1
Time (hours)
Stimuli
Mechanism
CHRONOCYCLIN® mimics the effects of sun exposure on circadian genes expression.
=> Effect of CHRONOCYCLIN® on expression of genes Per1 and CLOCK
Skin benefits
Daytime benefits:-optimized natural cells defenses (keratinocytes and fibroblastes)-optimized enzymatic expression for Vitamin D bio-transformation.
Nighttime benefits:-optimized cells renewal and regeneration (corneocytes and keratinocytes)-optimized microcirculation (detoxification and nutrient supply).
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EXSYMOL S.A.M. - 4 avenue Albert II - MC 98000 MONACOTél. : +377 92 05 66 77 - Fax : +377 92 05 25 02 - mail : [email protected] - www.exsymol.com
Expression of enzyme
Time (hours)00.5
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Sun radiation
Stimuli
CHRONOCYCLIN® anti-aging activity by circadian genes induction
Cellular proliferation and regenerationOur studies on reconstructed epidermis, placed in a dark environment demonstrated that CHRONOCYCLIN® induces an equivalent periodic keratinocytes renewal to the one that can be observed when placed under sun exposure.
Vitamin D photo-transformation activationCircadian genes express the enzyme involved in Vitamin D photo-transformation. CHRONOCYCLIN® is able to reproduce the sun exposure periodic enzyme expression on a reconstructed epidermis placed in a dark environment.
T = 1h30 T = 6h00
T = 14h00 T = 24h00
=> Effects of CHRONOCYCLIN® on Vitamin D enzyme expression
=> CHRONOCYCLIN® periodic induction of keratinocytes proliferation
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EXSYMOL S.A.M. - 4 avenue Albert II - MC 98000 MONACOTél. : +377 92 05 66 77 - Fax : +377 92 05 25 02 - mail : [email protected] - www.exsymol.com
CHRONOCYCLIN® – Anti-aging efficacy – In vivo testing SCIENTIFIC PUBLICATION_1081
The clinical evaluation is undertaken on 54 women for a period of 4 weeks.
The applied gel cream contains 0.2% CHRONOCYCLIN®.
Before
After
-30%
MMP1over
activation
Identified improvements at
any age
85%noticed
80%noticed
skin tonicity
wrinkle reduction
71 years old
47 years old
34 years old
After
After
After
Before
Before
Before
Wrinkles reduction
More than 85% of the volunteers, aged 40 years old and more felt an increase of their skin tonicity
80% of the volunteers aged 40 years old and more showed a decrease of their wrinkles.
MMP1 over activation inhibition After 4 weeks treatment, an average 30% decrease of the MMP-1 over activation was observed.
PRESERVATIVEALTERNATIVE
TOLERANCE STUDY
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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
ANALYTICAL COMPOSITION
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EXSYMOL S.A.M. - 4 avenue Albert II - MC 98000 MONACOTél. : +377 92 05 66 77 - Fax : +377 92 05 25 02 - mail : [email protected] - www.exsymol.com
CHRONOCYCLIN®
L-GLUTAMYLAMIDOETHYL IMIDAZOLE 1%
PRESERVATIVE SQ%
WATER SQF 100%
Colorless liquid.PH: approx 5.Density at 20°C: approx 1.0.Soluble in water, alcohol and glycols.
Different preservative systems are available in order to fit with your requirements. Among these versions, we try to develop as often as possible preservative free ingredients. Please contact us for details about the available versions.
CHRONOCYCLIN® does not show any toxicity . Tolerance studies were undertaken by in vitro alternative methods (cell culture and reconstructed epidermis) and on volunteers.Details on the tolerance studies can be found on the product MSDS.
CHRONOCYCLIN® is a stable solution.Use level: 0.2 to 1%Incompatibilities: no particular incompatibilities.
1, 5 and 30 kg
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Revita-Cyte Complex
Key Ingredients:Euk-134- Mitochondrial form of superoxide dismutaseMicroalgae extract (Pepha-ctive)- protects and stimulates mitochondria by increasing ATP levels; improves skin radiance Exo-T- Vitamin A alternative, increases cell turnover, stimulates desquamation, exfoliationMatryxyl sinth 6- evens out skin relief and smoothes wrinklesChronocyclin – enhances vitamin D expression by mimicking sun exposure
Skin Type Indications: Aging, damaged, sensitive to Vitamin A
Benefits: • Wrinkle reduction • Increase cell turnover • Peptides, stem cells, botanicals & vitamins • Increases ATP Energy
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Chrono-Peptide Booster for HydraFacial
• Chronocyclin Peptide- Circadian Rhythm Peptide that optimizes skin physiological activities of defense and cells repair.
• NeoDermyl- The “needle-free” collagen and elastin filler, pure source of bio-energy to recharge skin’s beauty, boosts skin density and overall firmness
• Matrixyl Morphomics Peptide- Influences cellular and dermal energy, reducing the appearance of vertical lines.
• Matrixyl Synthe’6 Peptide- Clinically proven to smooth wrinkles from the inside by rebuilding the skin, particularly on the forehead and crow's feet.
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Recharge Serum
Key Ingredients:• Snap 8 – Clinically proven to decrease wrinkle
depth caused by muscle contraction
• Neodermyl – The “needle-free” collagen and elastin filler, pure source of bio-energy to recharge skin’s beauty, boosts skin density and overall firmness
• Matrixyl morphemics Peptide- Influences cellular and dermal energy, reducing the appearance of vertical lines.
• Chronocyclin Peptide– Circadian Rhythm Peptide that optimizes skin physiological activities of defense and cells repair.
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Vitamin B NiacinamideMethyl Nicotinate
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Day Time Control
Key Ingredients:Niacinamide- Decreases post inflammatory pigmentationRegu-Seb- Decreases oil production Bodyfensine Peptide - natural immunity and lowers risk of possible infections from external agents GranActive Acne- antimicrobial peptides, effective against p. Acnes bacteriaCanadian Willowherb extract- inhibits p. Acnes, reduces free radical formation and reduces redness Lilac stem cell extract- strong anti-inflammatory activity and effectiveness against p. Acnes
Skin Type Indications: Oily, acne prone, dry acne, teenage
Benefits: • Anti-inflammatory• Anti-bacterial• Mattifying moisturizer• Controls oil production• Can be used day and night
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White Veil Brightener
Key Ingredients:Niacinamide- tyrosinase inhibitor, melanosome transfer inhibitorAlpha-Arbutin- tyrosinase inhibitorChromobright- BrighteningSepiWhite MSH- prevents the production of tyrosinase, regenerative, antioxidant, brighteningAminopropyl ascorbyl Phosphate- stabilized form of Vitamin C which stabilizes E and is an antioxidantB-White- to decrease constitutive and facultative pigmentation pathways.
Skin Type Indications: Damaged, pigmentation, aging
Benefits: • Brightens • Antioxidant• Evens out skin tone
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Firming and Shaping Gel
Key Ingredients:Theophyllisilane - increases utilization of fatty tissuesCaffeine- increases local metabolismHorse Chestnut- contains aescin beneficial to circulationButchersbroom extract- helps fat metabolismL-carnitine - helps metabolize fatMentha sp. (Wild Mint)- stimulatingMethyl nicotinate- activates circulation, Skin will get red/flushedLiporeductyl- activates lipolysis and microcirculation
Skin Type Indications: Lack of firmness, dimpled skin, cellulite
Benefits: • Scientifically proven to reduce the appearance of
cellulite on thighs and buttocks• Excellent companion product for treatment with
