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GUESTBOOK ® where MILWAUKEE
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MILWAUKEE
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Welcome to milWaukee
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Contents
10 first lookhot attraCtionsFrom the Pabst Theater to the Milwaukee Museum of Art.
16 City by the lakea watery pastHistorian John Gurda on the city’s ties to Lake Michigan.
20 aMazing graCegraCe weber Q&aThe Milwaukee native and ris-ing star singer-songwriter opens up about her new album.by erin engstroM
22 Child’s playfirst stage turns 25An ode to one of the city’s most long-standing theater companies. by dan Murphy
MilWaUKEE ESSEncE 26 down by the bay
a seriously hip ’hoodTake a stroll through the shops and restaurants of one of the city’s hottest districts: Bay View. by liz grossMan
30 neighborhoodsMilwaukee’s must-see areas, from the Historic Third Ward to Washington Heights.
32 shoppingA curated selection of the city’s top shops and boutiques.
34 arts & entertainMentThe city’s top tours, attractions, museums and more.
e2 “ein prosit!” to old world diningfave gerMan eatsMilwaukee’s German heritage comes to delicious life at these beloved restaurants. by Manya kaCzkowski
e8 Milwaukee aCCentsvoCal about loCalGet the scoop on Walker’s Point hot spot INdustri Cafe, where everything from fish to greens is sourced from Wisconsin producers. by jeanette hurt
oNTHECoVER“the Calling,” sculpture by william disuvero ©peter diantoni
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contRIBUtoRS
JEAnEttE HURt
Milwaukee Accents, page E8Jeanette Hurt is the award-winning author of “The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine and Food Pairing,” “The Cheeses of Wisconsin: A Culinary Travel Guide,” and the March 2012 release “The Compete Idiot’s Guide to Sausage Making.” The cheese correspondent for WUWM’s “Lake Effect” show, she lives in Milwaukee with her husband and son.
MAnYA KAcZKoWSKI
Ein Prosit! to Old World Dining, page E2Freelance writer Manya Kaczkowski dined and pho-tographed her way through Italy for the past year, but she recently came home to her favorite city, Milwaukee. Manya has contributed to Midwest Living, American Road, Wild Blue Yonder and other magazines. Visit www.stylusedit.com or www.stylusedit.wordpress.com.
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JoHn GURDA
City by the Lake, page 16Milwaukee-born writer and historian is the author of 20 books, including histories of Milwaukee-area neighborhoods, industries, and places of worship. “The Making of Milwaukee,” Gurda’s most ambitious effort, is the first full-length history of the community published since 1948. Gurda is also a lecturer, tour guide, and local history columnist for the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel and is an eight-time winner of the Wisconsin Historical Society’s Award of Merit.
LIZ GRoSSMAn
Down by the Bay, page 26Chicago resident Liz Grossman loved heading up to her hometown of Milwaukee to hang out in Bay View for her story on the hot neighborhood. She is the managing editor of Plate magazine and founder of food blog elizabites.com, and has contributed to Daily Candy Chicago, Veranda, playboy.com and Newsweek. She‘d happily return to Bay View for a biscuit fix at Honeypie Café.
DAn MURPHY
Child’s Play, page 22Dan Murphy is a freelance writer who splits time between Chicago and Milwaukee. He is a regular contributor at both Milwaukee Magazine and the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel, and he has penned articles for Wisconsin Trails Magazine, Major League Baseball, ESPN.com and many others.s s
PEtER DiAntonI
Down by the Bay, page 26, and Ein Prosit! to Old World Dining, page E2In pursuing his two main passions, bicycling and photography, Peter has helped create the niche cycling publication COG. Through this venture he has established relationships around the world and travels on assign-ments regularly. He’s a proud resident of Milwaukee’s Riverwest neighborhood with his wife and daughter.
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EdiTORial
EDITOR J.P. Anderson
assOcIaTE EDITOR Erin Engstrom
assOcIaTE aRT DIREcTOR Veronica Montesdeoca
cOnTRIbuTIng WRITERs Liz Grossman, John Gurda, Jeanette Hurt,
Manya Kaczkowski, Dan Murphy
cOnTRIbuTIng phOTOgRaphER Peter DiAntoni
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READY TO EXPLORE BREW CITY?
FROM A WORLD-CLAss MusEuM
TO A sTunnIng sPORTs vEnuE,
THEsE sEvEn ATTRACTIOns ARE THE
PERFECT PLACEs TO sTART.
Discovery World Just south of the Milwaukee Art Museum along the
lakefront, this museum attracts visitors with its high-tech,
hands-on exhibits, salt-water and freshwater aquariums,
and touch tanks and digital theaters. Experience the thrill
of a flight simulator, lie on a bed of nails and see the inside
of a nuclear reactor. Or check out the S/V Denis Sullivan,
the world’s only re-creation of an 1880s-era three-masted
Great Lakes schooner, docked just outside and offering
summertime lake cruises and deck tours.
500 N. Harbor Dr., 414.765.9966, www.discoveryworld.org
firstlook
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first look
Harley-Davidson Museum Housed in a trio of shiny glass-and-steel structures as sleek
as any Hog, this museum is dedicated to the history and
heritage of Milwaukee’s famous motorcycle. It features
130,000 square feet of two-wheeling treasures like Serial
Number One (the earliest known Harley-Davidson model);
Elvis Presley’s 1956 KH; and “King Kong,” a 13-foot-long
customized bike with two engines and four fishtail straight
exhaust pipes.
400 W. Canal St., 877.HD.MUSEUM,
www.h-dmuseum.com
Milwaukee Art Museum Acclaimed for Santiago Calatrava’s sleek, contemporary
design, this museum’s Quadracci Pavilion is the gem of the
Milwaukee lakefront. At noon each day, a pair of white steel
“wings” atop Windhover Hall fold and unfold. Known as
the Burke Brise Soleil, this 90-ton sun screen spreads 217
feet at its widest point and is a Milwaukee must-see. That’s
not all that’s worth eyeballing: With an impressive collection
of 30,000 artworks ranging from the Old Masters to Andy
Warhol, the museum is a serious draw all on its own.
700 N. Art Museum Dr., 414.224.3200, www.mam.org
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Milwaukee Public Market Located where the Third Ward meets downtown at St. Paul
Avenue, this bright, airy indoor market opened in 2005
and is one of the city’s hottest spots for local foodies, who
stock up on everything from cooking spices to chocolate,
soup stocks to locally made artisanal cheeses. Any trip here
is heightened by the aromas of baking bread, fresh seafood
and roasting coffee. Cooking classes are held periodically
inside the Madame Kuony Kitchen, a demonstration space
on the upper level.
400 N. Water St., 414.336.1111,
www.milwaukeepublicmarket.org
FIRST LOOK
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Pabst Theater A popular venue for blues, folk and alternative rock acts, this
1895 National Historic Landmark theater was built by beer
baron Captain Frederick Pabst. The elegant Baroque interior
includes an Austrian crystal chandelier and a staircase of white
Italian Carrera marble. Acts to have graced the stage range
from Willie Nelson and Gregg Allman to Sharon Jones and the
Dap-Kings and Goo Goo Dolls.
144 E. Wells St., 414.286.3205, www.pabsttheater.org
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first look
Mitchell Park ConservatoryA family favorite and one of Milwaukee’s most recognizable
landmarks, “the Domes” were originally constructed in 1898
as a single greenhouse. They became a trio in 1955 and now
feature arid plants, tropical gardens and a seasonally changing
flora exhibit.
524 S. Layton Blvd., 414.649.9800,
www.milwaukeedomes.org
Miller Park Home to Major League Baseball’s Milwaukee Brewers,
Miller Park is the largest construction project in Wisconsin
history. Completed in 2001, the park features North
America’s only fan-shaped convertible roof, which can
open and close in less than 10 minutes, promising good
conditions for fans no matter what the weather. Wage a
friendly bet with your companions on who will win the
traditional “sausage race,” featuring five folks dressed in
Klement’s Sausage costumes running around the field’s
warning track prior to the seventh inning. Tours of the park
are offered most days April through September.
I-94 and Miller Park Way, 414.902.4000,
www.milwaukee.brewers.mlb.com
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City Lake
Milwaukee Grew Up at the Water’s Edge
by the
by John gurda
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Other Milwaukeeans report the same experience, and it’s hardly surprising. The city’s collective compass has been pointing east for its entire history. Lake Michigan is a majestic natural resource that frames Milwaukee’s views, alters its weather, provides it with an endless supply of drinking water, and offers a wealth of recreational choices. But the big lake is something even more. Its influence has been so profound and so pervasive for so long that Lake Michigan has molded the subconscious of the entire community. It lies at the level of dreams—a constant presence even when our thoughts are focused elsewhere.
The lake, after all, is why Milwaukee exists. At a time when everyone and everything traveled by water, the future belonged to settlements with superior harbors. Milwaukee was the best potential port on the western shore of the lake, Chicago not excepted. Its broad bay and deep river promised safe anchorage for the fleet of schooners that plied the Great Lakes, and hopeful settlers poured into the infant metropolis by the thou-sands.
Whether they were coming from the East Coast or, increasingly, from Europe, the pioneers typically made their way to Albany, crossed upstate New York on the Erie Canal, and then boarded a schooner at Buffalo for the all-water journey into the American heartland: down Lake Erie, up the Detroit River, across Lake Huron, through the Straits of Mackinac, and finally into Lake Michigan. Chicago, at the very foot of the lake, was 90 miles farther from the East Coast than Milwaukee—a marginal disadvantage, to be sure, but one that kept the two cities at parity in the race for settlers. For nearly 15 years—from the first public land sale in 1835 until mid-century—Milwaukee and Chicago were locked in a virtual dead heat. The race ended in 1852, when the first railroad chugged into Chicago from the east. Once again the influence of Lake Michigan was formative. Chicago was a dead end in the Age of Sail, but it became a natural hub in the Age of Rail. Overland traffic was forced to the foot of the lake, and Chicago was ideally positioned to become a transfer point for every railroad line that crossed the northern United States. As
the community took on a new role as “Freight Handler to the Nation,” the Windy City’s population grew to twice the size of Milwaukee’s by 1860, four times by 1870.
Although it was eclipsed by its neighbor to the south, Milwaukee refused to wither in the deep shade of Chicago, and its lake connec-tion remained crucial. Improving its own harbor and growing its own railroad network, the city became a primary outlet for the agricultural bounty of Wisconsin and its neighboring states. By the early 1860s, in fact, Milwaukee was the largest shipper of wheat on earth. Its riverbanks were lined with grain elevators that filled the holds of lake schooners to capacity, and the Grain Exchange—a gracious emporium
fully restored in 1983—was among the most important commodities markets in the country.
The grain trade gave Milwaukee its first critical mass. From that solid eco-nomic base, the city developed a host of processing industries—brewing, tanning, meatpacking and flour-milling among them—and then shifted into even higher gear as a stronghold of manufacturing. Needless to say, lake transport was vital to virtually every local industry.
The lake supported another indus-try even more directly: commer-cial fishing. From the 1870s through the 1920s, the broad sand spit at the Milwaukee River’s mouth was the home
of a picturesque fishing village called Jones Island. Actually a pen-insula, the “Island” housed nearly 1,600 residents at the turn of the 20th century, most of them immigrants from the Baltic coast of Poland. The Kaszubs, as they were known, hauled in close to two million pounds of fish in a typical year, including trout, whitefish, perch, herring and sturgeon. Until it was cleared for port develop-ment in the 1920s, Jones Island was one of the most distinctive urban villages in America.
There is no question that this hard-working city was hard on its lake. Industrial discharges fouled the harbor well into the 20th century, and there was a time when the city actually towed its garbage out onto the lake
t happens every time I’m on the West Coast for more than a day or two. I begin to feel a subtle sense of disorientation, a vague geographic unease, as if the standard compass points no longer apply. I find myself wanting to turn right when the direction is left, sensing afternoon light when it’s only mid-morning. Then it dawns on me: The big water is on the wrong side. As a lifelong Milwaukeean, my compass is permanently set to the east, toward Lake Michigan, and the location of the Pacific Ocean feels precisely backward.I
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and unceremoniously dumped it. Raw sewage was a particularly pressing problem until 1925, when a pioneering treatment plant was built—on the site of the Jones Island fishing village.
There was, at the same time, an awareness that Lake Michigan was a priceless resource whose shoreline belonged to everyone. That viewpoint gained strength under the Socialists who guided Milwaukee’s destiny between 1910 and 1960. They included urban planner Charles Whitnall, whose master plan, unveiled in 1923, called for a necklace of parks along the lakeshore. In broad outline, Whitnall’s plan became a leafy reality; today more than half of Milwaukee County’s shoreline is in the public domain. The necklace contains nearly fourteen miles of parkland, includ-ing such pearls as Lake Park, Grant Park, and Lincoln Memorial Drive, a gorgeous stretch of shoreline that has been delighting both residents and visitors since 1929.
The lakefront parks are punctuated with beaches that draw sun-worshipers and the hardiest swimmers (water temperatures rarely climb past 70). The lake itself supports a warm-weather navy of sailboats, pow-erboats, and fishing boats; salmon and trout, some in the 20-pound range, are the prized sport species. The pleasure craft share the open water with
cargo ships that bring road salt and cement into the Port of Milwaukee and take corn and machinery away; the lake remains a channel of com-merce even in the age of semi-trailers and super-highways.
Lake Michigan has been shaping life in Milwaukee since Milwaukee began—as a geographic presence, an economic mainspring, and a rec-reational magnet, not to mention a community compass point. But the lake’s most valuable contribution may be something less tangible. Tame and tempestuous by turns, generating fairy-tale snows in winter and sky-filling rainbows after summer storms, the “sweetwater sea” gives Milwaukee a day-and-night connection with a world beyond the human. Strolling through a lakefront park, you can witness the splash of salmon spawning in fall and the flash of red mergansers returning in spring. Looking east to the soft arc of the open horizon, you have the same experi-ence of infinity that envelops you at any seashore.
Lake Michigan, in other words, is a liquid wilderness. It confers a special character on the cities that share its shores, a dual identity that generations of residents have found enriching. For the last 175 years, Milwaukee has grown and changed as a city by the lake—at home on the green border between the vibrantly human and the forever wild.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: AERIAL VIEW OF MIDSUMMER FESTIVAL, 1939; A VIEW DOWN THE MILWAUKEE
RIVER FROM CLINTON STREET; FISHING SHANTIES AND BOATS ON JONES ISLAND; MEN IN FRONT OF
JOHN FOGG’S SALOON ON JONES ISLAND CIRCA 1900; DRAWING OF SHIPS AT GRAIN ELEVATOR A
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Q&A
What was your reaction when
your debut album, “Hope &
Heart,” opened at No. 8 on iTunes?
That was such a fun day. I wasn’t even expecting it to chart. I had a friend who was working at a music label, and he texted me when the album was at number 70 and sent me a screenshot, and I thought that was awesome. And then it kept climbing, and I was shocked when it cracked the top 10. To be up there with albums like “James Taylor: Greatest Hits,” it was crazy.
What had your recording
experience been prior to “Hope
& Heart?”
I’ve been singing pretty much my whole life. In college I was in a band called Grace and Julian with my piano player, Julian Pollack. He’s helping me with my solo proj-ect while he’s pursing his career as a jazz pianist.
I read that you wrote 30-40
songs for your first album. Is it
hard to narrow it down to 12?
It was and it wasn’t. Some songs we recorded and when we went back and listened to them it was
like, ‘Oh, that’s not going to work.’ ... I’d recorded an EP earlier and we knew that “Sparrows” and “Leave the Light On” we going to be on [the abum]. With the songs we were on the fence about, my manager and producer were help-ful in whittling those down and shaping the album’s sound.
You studied at NYU. What was
it like to balance school with the
pursuit of your music career?
I was actually able to create my own major through the Gallatin School. I called it Music Performance and Marketing. ... I studied things like social media, and graphic design so I can create my own album covers. Everything was relevant to my career. When I was in high school people advised me to learn about the business end of the music industry. I’ve loved always learning and going to school, so going to college was important to me.
You’re selling some of your
paintings on your website, which
is kind of unusual. Is painting
something you do frequently?
I actually sold my paintings as I was trying to raise funds to record my album. Fans asked me about them, so I put a few for sale online. I’m not a professional artist by any means, but it’s always been a great creative outlet for me. When I’m feeling uninspired with my song-writing, sometimes I’ll paint and that will give me some inspiration. I’ve been so busy recently that I haven’t painted for months.
You’ve shared the stage with
some pretty big names, including
Ben Lee and Fountains of Wayne.
Who have been your favorite
musicians to perform with?
Fountains of Wayne’s guitarist, Jody [Porter], was a total goofball and so much fun to perform with. At the end of the show we all got together and performed “Love Potion Number Nine.” It’s still sur-prising to me that I’m sharing the stage with people like that. Once we perform I feel like I belong there, but it’s still kind of hard for me to accept that I’m on the same level sometimes. In 2006 I performed at the ELLA Awards with people like Frank Sinatra Jr., Dionne Warwick, Burt Bacharach and Patti Austin in honor of Johnny Mathis. That was an incredible experience. I mean, Frank Sinatra Jr. was giving me advice in the green room! And Whitney Houston was actually in the audience. She talked to me
after the performance and she was so kind and encouraging. She was amazingly talented and definitely a big inspiration to me growing up.
How often do you make it
back to Milwaukee?
I make it back pretty frequently, because I’ve been touring a lot in the Midwest. All of my family is still there. My sister and her hus-band recently had a baby and they just moved back, so I’m excited I get to see them more often. I love coming back to Milwaukee. Whenever I start to feel worn down in New York, I usually have a trip coming up to Milwaukee before too long, and I know I’ll be able to recharge there.
What are some of your favorite
music venues in Milwaukee?
The sound at Turner Hall is incred-ible. I feel like in Milwaukee, Turner Hall, the Pabst and the Riverside are the ultimate venues, and it’s amazing to have the oppor-tunity to play them.
Are there any restaurants you
make a point to hit when
you’re in Milwaukee?
I really like eating out in Wauwatosa Village, especially at Le Rêve. And Gilles is my absolute favorite. I ate their chocolate cus-tard every day in high school. It was like my comfort food. I wish I had the same metabolism today.
20 WHERE GUESTBOOK
Amazing GraceBy erin engstrom
Musician Grace Weber defies definition. Jazz chanteuse, indie singer-songwriter, soulful popster—all of these monikers could apply to the 24-year-old Milwaukee native, who released her debut album, “Hope & Heart,”
in 2011. Named a Billboard “Artist to Watch,” Weber moved to Brooklyn after graduating from New York University in 2010, but her touring schedule brings her back to Brew City often.
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By Dan Murphy
Child’sPlay
Nationally renowned theater company First Stage celebrates 25 years
of putting kids in the spotlight
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For 90 minutes, the age-appropriate cast of the play takes the sold-out audience on a journey through the universe to the fictitious planet Camazotz and back. Such a trip could require intricate sets and special effects. But at Milwaukee’s First Stage children’s theater, it’s done with minimal but effective set design, ample sound effects and frequent lighting changes, all on a thrust stage that has Meg and her five-year-old brother Charles Wallace rescuing their dad just a few feet away from the rapt audience.
It takes some imagination to follow Meg and Charles as they search for their dad. But at the end of the play, when the house lights go up and a wide-eyed audience ranging in age from five to 85 applauds, it’s clear that First Stage, celebrating its 25th season, is pretty darn good at what it does.
First Stage began in 1987 when the Milwaukee Performing Arts Center (now the Marcus Center for the Performing Arts) board decided to develop children’s theater, charging Rob Goodman with the task. “In 1987, when I started the company, I had no idea where it was going to go,” says Goodman, First Stage’s managing director. “I built a five-year plan of growth development. And in that first year, we did three plays and 40,000 people came. So, we were an instant success in the community. To me it said, ‘There is a need for this, young people are looking for this.’”
Attendance at First Stage performances now totals 145,000 a year. The group is the second largest theater company in Milwaukee and one of the largest children’s theater groups in the country. In its 25 years, First Stage has staged more than 150 productions—including “Of Mice and Men,” “To Kill a Mockingbird,” “Romeo and Juliet,” and the 2008 world premiere of Harry Connick Jr.’s “The Happy Elf”—and has drawn some 2.5 million audience members.
But there’s much more to a First Stage performance than what people see onstage at the Wehr Theater, and there’s more to the organization than how many people walk through the turnstiles. The theater has become a big part of the Milwaukee community that exists outside of the Wehr.
“We are really not about art for art’s sake,” says Goodman. “We’re about using our art in order to have a positive impact on young people’s lives. We stopped trying to grow it in terms of adding plays. Now our growth is really about how we are able to touch more children with the positive things we’ve already developed.”
Shortly after house lights fade in downtown Milwaukee’s cozy 500-seat Todd Wehr Theater, Meg Murry (played with impressive ease by 15-year-old Katherine Pollnow) appears perched on top of what a looks like a large circular jungle gym. Murry sits on her metal half dome and begins to tell the story of Madeleine L’Engle’s classic, “A Wrinkle in Time.”
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The First Stage Theater Academy has taught stage and life skills to 30,000 young people since it was founded in 1992. Professional actors oversee classes like Musical Theater, Parent-Child Drama, Creative Drama, and Clowning. The academy is available to kids of all abilities from age three to 18. The academy motto is simple: “’I can’t’ is not in my vocabulary! I take risks! I conquer my fears! I am not afraid to lead!” It clearly is a mantra that applies to much more than just acting.
Christine Bestor began attending First Stage classes in 1991, when she was seven years old. She spent seven years in the group and performed onstage in “The Phantom Tollbooth” and “The Best Christmas Pageant Ever.”
“First Stage was a place where I was accepted and cared about,” says Bestor, now a Chicago attorney. “It gave me confidence in myself and helped me grow as a person. It helped me cultivate a talent. It gave me adult role models who were interested in my growth as an actress and as a human being, and friends who wanted me to succeed. It taught me responsibility for my work, myself, and my colleagues.”
First Stage touches the lives of even more Milwaukee children
through its Theater in Education program, reaching some 20,000 stu-dents in local schools every year. First Stage professionals visit classrooms and guide kids through a myriad of interactive workshops. Children who may have never seen live theater before can take field trips to the Wehr, and follow up the performance with a post-show discussion. Simply by filling a seat in the Wehr during a play, kids benefit from First Stage’s programming.
Says Goodman, “You can do theater for entertainment, which we do. You can do theater for enlightenment, which we do. You can do theater for social change, which we do. You can do theater for all kinds of reasons.” He adds, “Years ago I discovered the impact that live theater has on children. And that’s what I try to do here, have a really powerful theatrical experience that is entertaining and enlightening, but touches them in a way that helps them grow as individual people.”
opening spread: 2007 production “12 days—a milwaukee christmas.”
opposite: 2011’s “don’t tell me i can’t fly.” above, clockwise from
top left: the marcus center; first stage theater academy; manag-
ing director rob goodman; “seussical,” 2011; “a wrinkle in time,” 2012
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students every year.
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DOWN
Discover the homey vibe and one-of-a-kind finds
of up-and-coming Bay ViewBY LIZ GROSSMAN
PHOTOGRAPHY BY PETER DIANTONI
BAYby the
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In 1872, Bay View resident Beulah Brinton opened her Victorian Gothic home at 2590 S. Superior St. to European immigrants—mostly masons, builders, mill workers and artisans who were looking for work, English lessons, recreation, a fully stocked library and a sense of community. Just a few blocks away, the main, winding artery of Kinnickinnic Avenue from Becher Street to Holt Avenue was also thriving with newcomers and small businesses, and just seven years later Bay View became incorporated as Milwaukee’s first suburb. Today, the Brinton residence houses the Bay View Historical Society, and artisans and entrepre-neurs continue to flock to “KK,” setting up their cafés, galleries, salons and shops not on the ground floor of cookie-cutter developments, but among the endless rows of well-preserved two-story storefronts that remain intact from the early 19th century.
“It was a five-and-dime and a florist,” says Becky Heck of her seven-year-old store Luv Unlimited, which is stocked with vintage apparel, records, silk-screened tees and custom accessories. “People [on KK] put money into their façades; they want to preserve them,” she says.
At around the same time (and right across the street), Heck’s boyfriend, Sage Schwarm, opened Hi-Fi Café, now popular for its strong coffee, local artwork, jukebox and vegetarian breakfast burritos. “We wanted to bring Bay View things we see in New York and San Francisco, but offer them [for less],” says Heck.
The area was sparse when Heck and Schwarm were
setting up shop, but other arrivals like three-year-old Honeypie Café have helped the block blossom. A pig donning a satisfied grin and a bib welcomes diners, while house-made cupcakes and cream pies fill the bakery case, and chef/co-owner Justin Lucks’ Midwestern comfort food eats (from chicken biscuit pies to mac and cheese) dot the brunch, lunch and dinner menus. “We wanted to expand our bakery offerings and do made-from-scratch food,” says co-owner and baker Val Lucks. “I’ve also lived in the neighborhood for more than seven years. I’ve seen more and more younger families buying homes, more adults who want to be a part of the neighborhood and they are looking for more,” she says. “Plus the neigh-borhood needed another place for good, old-fashioned breakfast, lunch and dinner.”
Anodyne Coffee founder Matt McClutchy was also looking to expand when he chose to move his 12-year-old East Side-based java company to Bay View in 2004. The location was closer to his family’s home, and he was able to double his space to 2,500-square-feet—enough for a 40-seat café worth a visit for a cup of joe. “Bay View is a bit like Mayberry,” says McClutchy. “It’s a pocket of small town-ness, but in a big city. I enjoy caf-feinating the neighborhood.”
And once your desire for caffeine and vegetarian lunchtime bites is sated, stick around the ’hood at night to visit the eclectic mix of low-key beer bars and small, retro cocktail lounges. Bay View night owls flock here for the more than 70 Wisconsin beers served up at three-
Previous, from left: luv
unlimited’s funky façade;
earrings from sParrow.
above: kinnickinnic avenue;
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at honeyPie; colorful
duds at sParrow; beulah
brinton house; more
goodies from sParrow
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year-old Blackbird, the collection of random kitsch at Burnhearts (located just off KK on Howell Avenue), the shuffleboard and pool at the ultra-retro Lee’s Luxury Lounge, and the spiked milkshakes and dark milieu of time-warp 1960s gem At Random.
Another big draw is the culture and cocktails of two-year-old BYO Studio Lounge. Kerry Yandall and her hus-band Ken restored the space in a solid Cream City-brick building from 1902 that once housed Milwaukee’s first motion picture theater. Today, BYO serves up art exhibits and salsa lessons with handcrafted cocktails like cucum-ber mojitos and jalapeño margaritas. Says Yandall, “Our customers tell us they feel at home [here], like they’re hanging out in our kitchen.”
This homeyness spreads to other Bay View pioneers like Café LuLu, where sandwiches like the KK Philly (flank steak with provolone and vegetables on a French baguette), salads and local libations like Sprecher gourmet sodas and Rishi Tea have been served up since 2001. Sunday brunch is a great time to go for bourbon almond French toast, blue cornmeal hot cakes and Brew City sangria (local lager with pear purée, triple sec and lemon juice) served up amid supper club-style chairs and retro lamps.
Just down the street from LuLu, a few retro antique furnishings and home accessories can be yours to schlep or ship home from Tip Top Atomic, a vintage boutique with everything from Eames-era furnishings to rockabilly wear. More modern perusing can be done
at Sparrow Collective, an Etsy-lover’s dream come true with handmade wallets, postcards, jewelry and other gift items from designers based in Milwaukee and through-out the Midwest. Pluck one of Sparrow co-owner Lisa Wierzbinski’s screened-printed Bay View T-shirts under her label Moshi Moshi, kitschy cards from Crack Designs, and handmade plush toys from local designer Christina Ward.
But head up the street towards Holt, where quaint homes seem to outnumber the businesses on KK, and you’ll find a more peaceful pocket of the bustling avenue. “That appealed to me because I knew it would be qui-eter,” says chef Mike Engle, whose 48-seat Pastiche Bistro & Wine Bar has been packed since it opened in this residential nook two years ago. “The people in the neigh-borhood are savvy about food and wine, and I wanted to do a restaurant that was affordable, simple French bistro fare,” says the chef, who frequents the South Shore farmer’s market in the summer to keep his menu local. Engle whips up steak frites, French onion soup and the occasional ossobucco special all out of a tiny built-out kitchen in a 100-year-old building—and he wouldn’t have it any other way. “I love being in Bay View. I like it here because of the people,” says Engle, who shares a quiet block (and often customers) with Palm Tavern and Blackbird bar. “They love it; they get the best of both worlds. That’s what I like about down here, the busi-nesses around us, everyone knows each other, we all help each other out.” Beulah Brinton herself would be proud.
ESSENTIALS
Anodyne2920 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.414.276.8081www.anodynecoffee.com
At Random2501 S. Delaware Ave.414.481.8030
Blackbird3007 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.414.486.1344 www.facebook.com/blackbird.bar
Burnhearts2599 S. Logan Ave.414.294.0490
BYO Studio Lounge2246 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. 414.489.7474www.byostudio.com
Café LuLu2265 S. Howell Ave. 414.294.5858www.lulubayview.com
Hi-Fi Café2640 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.414.486.0504www.hificafe.com
Honeypie2643 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.414.489.7437www.honeypiecafe.com
Lee’s Luxury Lounge2988 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.414.744.5960
LUV Unlimited2649 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.414.744.2540www.luvunlimited.com
Palm Tavern2989 S. Kinnickinnic Ave, 414.744.0393
Pastiche3001 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. 414.482.1446www.pastichebistro.com
Sparrow Collective2224 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.414.747.9229www.facebook.com/sparrowcollective
Tip Top Atomic2343 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.414.486.1951www.tip-top-atomic.com
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from brady street to shorewood, these seven distriCts are just waiting to be disCovered.
neighborhoods
historiC third ward Once mostly a destination for theater and gallery events, this vibrant turn-of-the-century ware-house district just south of St. Paul Street now attracts visitors to hip restaurants, boutiques and more. Start the day with coffee at a local roaster like Cedarburg Coffee Roastery, then explore the must-see Milwaukee Public Market, where food vendors from around the state come together to sell everything from wine and choco-late to spices, organic produce and fresh breads. Be sure to browse some of the neighborhood’s many outstanding art galleries. In the evening, head to a performance at the Skylight Opera Theatre complex, where a mix of musicals, dramas and children’s theater are presented on a handful of stages. www.historicthirdward.org
washington heights In the center of Milwaukee, bor-dered by Highway 41, North Avenue, 27th Street and Vliet Street, the winding avenues of this pleasant residential neighborhood are home to blocks of charming early 20th-century bungalows and Arts and Crafts-style homes. On the neighborhood’s far western edge, the village of Wauwatosa bustles with young families, but Vliet Street is where the real action is. This commercial strip buzzes with bakeries, galleries and quirky cinemas. Washington Park is a delightful green space; one of the city’s largest public parks, it was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted (famous for designing New York’s Central Park) during the late 1890s. www.whna.net
east side With a pulsing nightlife scene and plenty of neighborhood nooks for ethnic dining, this is Milwaukee’s top social center. Immediately north of downtown, the area is known for the 175-foot-tall North Point Water Tower at the corner of North and Terrace avenues, built in 1873 with Niagara lime-stone at the top of a twisting hill. Follow the slope (either by foot or by car) down to sandy Lake Michigan beaches; or join the throngs of inline skaters, joggers, bicyclists and walkers during the warmer months along nearby Lincoln Memorial Drive. Other scenic sights include the gardens, sculptures, and fine and decora-tive arts from the 15th-18th cen-turies at Villa Terrace Decorative Arts Museum, and 19th-century French and American paintings and furnishings at the Charles Allis Art Museum on Prospect Avenue. www.theeastside.org
shorewoodA culturally diverse pocket of the city, friendly Shorewood teems with independent boutiques and lovely lakeside homes. Oakland Avenue is the main shopping strip here, with hometown retailers like Stone Creek Coffee and women’s fashion haven Goldi’s, whose shoe collection has fans all around the city. Shorewood also boasts one of the finest beaches in the Milwaukee area, Atwater Beach (at Capitol and Lake drives). Follow a staircase down to the sand from the carefully tended gardens and park benches at street level and dip your toes into Lake Michigan. The neighborhood’s homes are an eclectic mix of historic Tudor, Mediterranean, and Arts and Crafts homes, perfect for viewing during a spin along scenic Lake Drive. www.villageofshorewood.org
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brady street A nine-block nexus that links the Milwaukee River and Lake Michigan and boasts one of the densest concentrations of indepen-dently owned shops, restaurants and bars in the city, Brady is an utterly walkable street with a rich history and bright future. At the turn of the 20th century, it was an enclave for Italian immigrants. In the ’60s, it became a gathering place for Milwaukee’s counter-cultural movement. Today, Brady Street reveals remnants of both eras, but it has now emerged as one of the city’s hippest ’hoods. It is the place to find that stunning floor-length gown for a charity benefit, pick up a loaf of freshly baked bread, or purchase that so-cool birthday present for your 11-year-old nephew. Aside from
shopping, the dining is divine, as is the music, with venues for live acts in abundance. Plus, nowhere else in the city do you see so many shop-pers with dogs—almost all stores allow well-behaved pooches inside, and even those that don’t still have water bowls outside. “You can literally spend all day here,” says Bryce Clark, owner of local Mexican spot Cempazuchi. “You can start out with coffee at 7 am, spend all day shopping and eat-ing, and end up closing out one of the bars.” Echoes Mimma Megna, owner of Mimma’s Cafe, “You can hear people speaking in different languages, and people are always walking along the street. In the summertime, when I sit outside, I feel like I’m in some kind of piazza. It’s got that kind of flair.” www.bradyst.com
bay viewLess than 15 minutes south of downtown via the Hoan Bridge, Bay View has evolved over the past decade into a popular place to live and play. Often termed “the new East Side”—the headquar-ters for cool since the 1960s—for its young homeowners and hip attitude, the neighborhood boasts plenty of art galleries and cafes. Kinnickinnic Avenue (“KK” to locals) is the main drag, where you’ll find punk-inspired hip-sters as well as artists discuss-ing their next show. Also in the mix? Vintage boutiques like Luv Unlimited and Tip Top Atomic Shop. For dining, delve into mid-century kitsch at Palomino, a twist on the Wisconsin supper club with a Southern-cuisine menu featuring vegan options; hopping Café Centraal, which boasts one of Milwaukee’s best beer selec-tions; or Lee’s Luxury Lounge, a throwback with wood paneling and beehive-shaped lamps. www.bayviewneighborhood.org
walker’s pointNew restaurants and condo devel-opments have revived this chang-ing neighborhood south of down-town, separated from the Historic Third Ward by the Milwaukee River. Behemoth warehouses constructed from local Cream City brick now house restaurants, shops, galleries and condos, all within a stone’s throw of the 1962 Allen-Bradley Tower, said to be the world’s largest four-sided clock. The area is also home to many of the city’s LGBT hangouts as well as the Milwaukee Gay Arts Center, which hosts theater productions and art exhibits. Rounding out the offerings is a selection of Mexican restaurants run by chefs and owners who live in the ’hood; La Fuente and La Perla are the most vibrant, both with bustling out-door patios. www.milwaukee.org
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Rug Individualism
shopping
H STaRREd liSTinGS aRE fEaTUREd GUESTBOOK advERTiSERS.
Whether your decorating style is traditional or mod, there’s a floor covering to fit at Shabahang & Sons Oriental Rugs. Every item has been handpicked from markets and artisans around the world. Sometimes years in the making, the rugs are func-tional art that can be enjoyed for generations. 601 E. Ogden Ave., 414-347-1300; 160 Kossow Rd., 262-717-1111, Waukesha; www.shabahangandsons.com
shops and spas
H 3rd Ward JeWelryCL0000025624
Browse hand-crafted necklaces, bracelets and other bling by more than 75 artists at this hip Historic Third Ward jewelry store. Popular designs include Barbara Heinrich's 18k gold stacking rings and Elise Moran's sterling silver floral designs.241 N. Broadway, 414-289-0886 www.3rdwardjewelry.com
H bayshore toWn centerCL0000025613
This mall north of downtown boasts shopping options from the Apple Store and Banana Republic to Vic-toria’s Secret and Williams-Sonoma, and is one of the Milwaukee area’s most popular retail destinations. 5800 N. Bayshore Dr., Glendale, 414-963-8780 www.bayshoretowncenter.com
H hot popCL0000047018
The wide range of products featured here reflect its urban setting with merchandise like hip sneakers; chic home goods; and accessories from Fred housewares, Alex and Chloe and LeSportsac. 213 N. Broadway, 414-273-1301 www.hotpopshop.com
H roger stevens
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This fashionable men’s shop inside the historic Pfister Hotel is all about good taste, with racks filled with ev-erything from sportswear to suits, including items from Samuelsohn, Zanella and Allen Edmonds. 428 E. Wisconsin Ave., 414-277-9010 www.rogerstevens.com
H shabahang & sons
oriental rugsCL0000054831
Carpet industry veterans for more than 100 years, the Shabahang fam-ily offers finely made new, semi-an-tique and antique rugs in a combined 16,500 feet of showroom space. 601 E. Ogden Ave., 414-347-1300 160 Kossow Rd., Waukesha, 262-717-1111 www.shabahangandsons.com
H (shoo)CL0000025616
Camper, Jeffrey Campbell and Pikoli-nos are just a few of the labels that make footwear fans drool at this trendy Third Ward shop, which also features stylish belts and bags. 241 N. Broadway, 877-765-SHOO (7466) www.shoostore.com
sparroW collectiveCL0000047014
A boutique, gallery and workshop studio designed to promote the work of more than 50 local fashion design-ers, Sparrow Collective carries hand-made, fashion-forward clothing, accessories and jewelry for women, men and children. The art on the walls changes monthly to feature lo-cal talent. 2224 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., 414-747-9229
H Well spa+Janice salonCL0000018604
In the luxurious Pfister Hotel down-town, this is Milwaukee’s only pri-vate-suite spa and salon. Specialty services include four kinds of facials; massages featuring hot stones and body scrubs; plus manicures, pedi-cures, waxing, makeup application, and hair coloring.424 E. Wisconsin Ave., 414-277-9207 www.pfisterwellspa.com
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SpEcial advERTiSinG SEcTiOn
Look book
3rd Ward Jewelry is one of the premier art jewelry galleries in the Midwest. We are open Monday-Saturday 10-6 and Sunday 12-4. Image: 18k Gold necklace by barbara Heinrich. Contact: Liz Hayes, owner. 241 N. broadway, 414.289.0886, www.3rdwardjewelry.com.
(shoo) is the definition of footwear: unusual, hand-crafted, well-made, funky footwear for men & women. (shoo) carries brands from all around the world like: Cydwoq, Fiorentini & baker, Trippen, John Fluevog, Camper & many more. 241 N. broadway, 414-765-2355, www.shoostore.com.
Hot*Pop, a locally-owned gallery and art boutique in Milwaukee’s historic Third Ward! Find the perfect quirky gift or browse their ever-growing selection of housewares, designer toys, and art-themed books. They also fully support their fellow locals, and have a nice stash of Milwaukee
produced items! Don’t forget to check out the gallery featuring artists from the Midwest area! open 11-7 Tu-Sa, 12-5 Su. 213 N. broadway St., 414.273.1301, hotpop.tumblr.com
HOT POP
3RD WARD JEWELRY
(SHOO)
Milwaukee’s shopping scene is vibrant and diverse, whether you’re on the hunt for upscale gifts or cuttingedge local designer fashions. This section highlights some of the city’s premier shops, plus gorgeous goods you’ll want to take home.
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Milwaukee from the Water
arts and entertainment
tours and attractions
H edelweiss boatsCL0000025684
Take in the sights of Milwaukee from the comfort of the Edelweiss I and II pleasure crafts. From sophisticated dinner cruises and Sunday brunch trips to custom-designed adventures aboard a private charter, there’s an offering for just about every taste and budget. Or break from the pack and captain your own boat with an Edelweiss pontoon rental. Terminal at Milwaukee River and 205 W. Highland Ave., 414-276-SHIP(7447) www.edelweissboats.com
H Jelly belly
Factory toursCL0000054826
Hop aboard the Jelly Belly Express for a 30-minute tour of the warehouse
and distribution center for the gour-met jelly beans, complete with free samples of the company’s candies. 10100 Jelly Belly Lane, Pleasant Prairie, 866-TOUR-JBC(8687-522) www.jellybelly.com
H milwaukee art museum
The soaring white “wings” of the Santiago Calatrava addition to this museum put Milwaukee and its art squarely on the international map. Equally stunning are the institution’s 20,000 works of art, including one of the largest collections of folk art in the country.700 N. Art Museum Dr., 414-224-3200 www.mam.org
milwaukee county ZooCL0000018639
Go wild at one of the top zoos in the country, whose lush grounds are home to more than 2,200 animals, from leopard sharks and sea lions
to two-toed sloths and penguins. Tour the grounds on the Safari Train or enjoy one of the birds of prey shows.10001 W. Bluemound Rd., 414-256-5412 www.milwaukeezoo.org
H Potawatomi bingo
and casino
Try to beat the odds at the state’s biggest tourist attraction. Poker, bingo and more than 3,100 slot machines await your dollars. Also enjoy excellent fine dining at Dream Dance Steak, plus concerts from the likes of B.B. King and Rick Springfield in the 500-seat Northern Lights Theater. 1721 W. Canal St., 800-PAYS-BIG(7297-244) www.paysbig.com
H STaRREd liSTinGS aRE fEaTUREd GUESTBOOK advERTiSERS.
Get a different perspective of Brew City with a tour on Edelweiss Boats, which have been cruising the waters of the Milwaukee River and Lake Michigan since 1988. From happy hour and dinner jaunts to the family-friendly, 80-minute Historic Milwaukee Boat Tour, there's a trip for every taste. Departures from West Highland Avenue at Milwaukee River, 414.276.7447, www.edelweissboats.com
MarcusCenterforthePerformingArts. located on the scenic milwaukee river in the heart of the downtown theater district, the marcus center is home to broadway and off-broadway shows, First stage children’s theater, the Florentine opera, the milwaukee ballet, the milwaukee symphony and the milwaukee youth symphony. 929 north water street, milwaukee, box office: 414.273.7206, www.marcuscenter.org
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Where guides show you the best ways
to enjoy your stay. From the best
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The Ultimate Guide to Food+Nightlife from the Publishers of ® Milwaukee
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The Ultimate Guide to Food+Nightlife from the Publishers of® Milwaukee
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DINING & NIGHTLIFEE-IFC Bacchus
925 E. Wells St.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.765.1166www.bacchusmke.com
E-IFC Bartolotta’s Lake Park Bistro 3133 E. Newberry Blvd.Milwaukee, WI 53211414.962.6300www.lakeparkbistro.com
E14 Butch’s Old Casino Steak House 555 N. James Lovell St.Milwaukee, WI 53233414.271.8111www.butchssteakhouse.com
E16 China Gourmet 117 E. Wells St.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.272.1688www.china-gourmet.com
EBC Dream Dance Steak Potawatomi Bingo Casino1721 W. Canal St.Milwaukee, WI 53233414.847.7883, www.paysbig.com
E-IFC Harbor House 550 N. Harbor Dr.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.3954900www.harborhousemke.com
E7 Kil@wat 139 E. Kilbourn Ave.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.291.4793www.kilawatcuisine.com
E13 Louise’s801 N. Jefferson St.Milwaukee, WI 53202 414.273.4224275 Regency Ct.Brookfield, WI 53045262.784.4275www.louiseswisconsin.com
E5 Mason Street Grill425 E. Mason St.Milwaukee, WI 53204414.298.3131www.masonstreetgrill.com
E10 McGillycuddy’s Bar and Grill1135 N. Water St.Milwaukee, WI 53202414-278-8888www.mcgillycuddysmilwaukee.com
E16 Milwaukee Brat House 1013 N. Old World Third St.Milwaukee, WI 53203414.273.8709www.milwaukeebrathouse.com
E1 Milwaukee Chophouse 633 N. 5th St.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.390.4562www.milwaukeechophouse.com
E-IFC Mr. B’s–A Bartolotta Steakhouse 17700 W. Capitol Dr.Brookfield, WI 53045262.790.7005www.mrbssteakhouse.com
E11 Pizza Shuttle 1827 N. Farwell Ave.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.289.9993www.pizzashuttle.com
E-IBC Port of Call Bistro & Beer Garden 106 W. Wells St.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.273.PORT(7678)www. portofcallmilwaukee.com
E10 Red Rock Saloon 1227 N. Water St.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.431.0467www.redrockmilwaukee.com
E-IFC Ristorante Bartolotta 7616 W. State St.Wauwatosa, WI 53213414-771-7910www.bartolottaristorante.com
E12 Rudy’s 1122 N. Edison St.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.223.1122www.rudysmexican.com
E-IFC Rumpus Room 1030 N. Water St.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.292.0100www.rumpusroommke.com
E15 Rustico 223 N. Water St.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.220.9933www.rusticopizzeria.com
E13 Trinity Three Irish Pubs 125 E. Juneau Ave.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.278.7033www.trinitythreeirishpubs.com
E12 Water Street Brewery1101 N. Water St.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.272.11953191 Golf Rd., Delafield, WI 53018262.646.7878www.waterstreetbrewery.com
E15 Zarletti741 N. Milwaukee St.Milwaukee, WI 53202
414.225.0000, www.zarletti.net
SHOPS & SPAS33 3rd Ward Jewelry
241 N. BroadwayMilwaukee, WI 53202414.289.0886www.3rdwardjewelry.com
9 Bayshore Town Center5900 N. Port Washington Rd. Milwaukee, WI 53217414.332.8136www.bayshoretowncenter.com
33 Hot Pop213 N. BroadwayMilwaukee, WI 53202414.273.1301, www.hotpopshop.com
3 Roger Stevens428 E. Wisconsin Ave.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.277.9010www.rogerstevens.com
35 Shabahang & Sons Oriental Rugs 601 E. Ogden Ave.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.347.1300160 Kossow Rd.Waukesha, WI 53186262.717.1111www.shabahangandsons.com
33 Shoo 241 N. BroadwayMilwaukee, WI 53202877.765.7466www.shoostore.com
IBC Well Spa + Janice Salon 424 E. Wisconsin Ave.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.277.9207
www.pfisterwellspa.com
TOURS & ATTRACTIONS8 Brady Street BID
1224 E. Brady St.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.BRADYST(272.3978)www.bradyst.org
E-IBC Edelweiss Boats 205 W. Highland Ave.Milwaukee, WI 53203414.276.SHIP(7447)www.edelweissboats.com
7 Great Lakes Distillery616 W. Virginia St.Milwaukee, WI 53204414.431.8683www.greatlakesdistillery.com
8 Jelly Belly Factory Tours 10100 Jelly Belly Ln.Pleasant Prairie, WI 53158866.TOUR.JBC(868.7522)www.jellybelly.com
34 Marcus Center for the Performing Arts929 N. Water St.Milwaukee, WI 53202414.273.7121www.marcuscenter.org
5 Milwaukee Art Museum700 N. Art Museum Dr.Milwaukee, WI414.224.3831, www.mam.org
ADVERTISER INDEX
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