8/14/2019 Winch Ester Model 94 Dis Assembly

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The Brownells site offers a free, clear, exploded view diagram they call a "Schematic." Click the"Schematic" tab at the top of the main page, then follow directions. I used "94 Top Eject- S/N Above2,700,000 Schematic ID# 351." The Numrich site offers exploded view diagrams but with a 99download fee. So if Brownells doesn't sell a part or has it on backorder, I open the Brownellsschematic in one browser window and the Numrich parts-listing page in another window.

You'll need your rifle's serial number in order to see the proper schematic. Note: both of these sitesand other sites I checked use the same Winchester terminology for each part. In other words,although each company might have a different part number for a "Finger Lever Link Pin," that namegets you the same part from each company.

For the purpose of this tutorial I have listed the Brownells retail price for each part, when available. Idid that easily because I saved the proper Brownells schematic web page to my computer's desktop.Offline, I can open the page and there's the schematic and the parts listing. You should do the same.An exploded view is handy when trying to put something back together. Hint hint.

In Internet Explorer, in the upper left-hand corner of the window click "File." When the tab opens,click "Save As. . . ." and save the web page to your desktop or wherever. (Don't worry. The onlything actually on your desktop will be a little clickable icon.)

The Model 94 shown here is circa 1976 with SN 4,537,XXX. I call it my "woods/heart attack rifle."You can read much more about ithere.

Click photos for full size popup versions.

We start with removal of the magazine tube and forearm.Here we see my finger pushing down the "Magazine Plug"($10.42) and a screwdriver removing the "Magazine PlugScrew" ($1.79).

I'm pushing the plug down because the "Magazine Spring"($7.31) is under tension. If you don't hold the plug down,

parts will fly everywhere when the spring pops out.

See what I mean there, Vern?

That's the "Magazine Spring" sticking out of the "Magazine Tube"($24.30) and that's the plug and screw in my hand. Remove the spring,then point the end of the tube down and the "Magazine Follower"($5.35) should fall out. It's a thimble-like device which rides up anddown the Magazine Tube on top of the last cartridge in themagazine. If the follower doesn't fall out, open the bolt, stickyour finger in the action, then give the end of the follower a little

push.

Now we loosen the "FrontBand" ($15.50) by removing the "Band Screw, Front"($1.79).

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Magazine Spring

Magazine Follower

Magazine Plug

Magazine Plug Screw Front Band

Band Screw, Front

Rear Band

Band Screw, Rear

Magazine Tube

Forearm

Woods Rifle's barrel leaning against my bench.

If your Model 94 is a few years or more old, I suggest you remove the Magazine Tube and clean itand also check the condition of the Magazine Spring. My tube was full of crud and the spring wasrusty.

Let's start taking the action apart.

We begin by removing the "Tang Screw" ($5.03) and thenremoving the stock. The screw out, wiggle the stock and pullrearward at the same time. You might have to give it a knockwith your knuckles. You might even have to wiggle, pull,knock, and twist. But it should come off without muchtrouble.

The Tang Screw is the only screw holding it.

Here we see the stock (It's a Ram-Line) pulled backward andabout to fall off.

Take note of the coil mainspring trigger/tang assembly onthis rifle SN 4,537,XXX. All the Model 94 parts lists I'veread clearly state that flat mainspring trigger/tang assembliesare used on rifles SN 4,580,000 and below. Here we see moreevidence of the shadetree gunsmith who once worked on this

rifle. He probably had the coil mainspring assembly on ajunker rifle and put it on this rifleat the new price, I wouldbet.

This close up of a portion of the above photo shows theside of the receiver. The 4 screws we will remove arenumbered in the order in which we will remove them. Theyare:

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1. "Link/Hammer Screw" ($1.80)

2. "Finger Lever Pin Stop Screw" ($2.61)

3. "Link/Hammer Screw" ($1.80) [same screw as above]

4. "Carrier Screw" ($2.59)

The 3 scope mounting holes you see in the close up photo are misaligned and partially stripped,probably by the gunsmith mentioned above. While I had the receiver apart, I cleaned the threadswith a tap and installed new plug screws. Both Brownells and Numrich sell taps and plug screws, butI ordered mine from Williams Gunsight Company. I like to spread the wealthand get the latestcataloges.

Williams #1853: 8-40 x .125" Plug Screw @ .55 each (I sell them now. Click here.)

Williams #1759: 8-40 Carbon Tap @ $5.05

Put the hammer at half-cock. Then out comes the

"Link/Hammer Screw." Known here as #1 or the hammerscrew.

With the screw outand the hammer stillon half-cock, wigglethe trigger/tang assembly while pulling down. It's atight fit against the walls of the receiver, but it willeventually come out. When it does, set it aside.

Now we remove the "Finger Lever Pin Stop Screw." Knownhere as #2 or the finger lever pin stop screw. Be careful. It's ashort little fellow and easy to lose.

Here we see a close

up of the "FingerLever Pin StopScrew" hole with thescrew removed. (And with stripped scope mounting holes oneach side.) In the center of the hole you can see one endof the "Finger Lever Pin" ($2.60). This short pin holds thelever in the bolt and also holds the firing pin in the bolt. It'simportant. But it's easy to remove ifyou pay attention tothe following instructions:

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The link/lever and locking bolt assemblies out of therifle, pull the "Carrier" C down.

Now grasp the "Breech Bolt" and pull it rearward and

out of the rifle.

Turn the "Breech Bolt" upside down, and out falls thefiring pin"Firing Pin" ($18.00)

The last screw#4, the "Carrier Screw" ($2.59).

Here it is. The"Carrier" onthe left, the"CarrierScrew" on theright.

If you'll notice in the full size photo, this "Carrier

Screw" is worn. It's on my replace list.

We're finished. From left to right and with a penny forscale, here's the removed screws and pin:

"Tang Screw"

"Carrier Screw"

"Link/Hammer Screw"

"Link/Hammer Screw"

"FingerLever Pin Stop Screw" with the

"FingerLever Pin" beneath it.

If you'll notice, one of the link/hammer screws isworn. It's also on my replace list.

Here we see the parts and assemblies spread acrossmy work bench. There's still a few parts insidethe receiver, including leaf springs, but I'm stopping

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the tutorial here. We've disassembled a Model 94 plenty far enough to make minor repairs orperform major cleaning. If the reader needs to replace those few parts I've left inside thereceiver of my woods rifle, he or she should be able to do it with the aid of the Brownellsexploded view. Or with the aid of a good gunsmith.

If you take your older Model 94 down as far as I took mine for this tutorial, you will

probably discover, as I did, lots of crud and some worn but easily replaceable parts. Mywoods rifle's trigger had creep and seemed to operate in stages. I did notdisassemble thetrigger/tang assembly, but I didgive it a thorough cleaning with oil, rags, and Q-tips. Result= good trigger now.

But if you take a rifle apart, you've got to put it back together. You don't want to walk into agunsmith's shop and hand him a sack of parts and say, "Would you please put this Model 94back together for me?"

To put it back together, we reverse the take it apart process:

Re-install the carrier using screw #4.

Put the firing pin in the proper position inside the bolt and slide the bolt into the

receiver.

Thread the lever through the slot in the carrier. Then thread the lever through the slotin the bolt and through the slot in the firing pin. That's much easier said than done.You'll have to do some wiggling with parts and maybe some cursing with words."You dirty $%#@!)*&^%" usually works for me.

Start the locking bolt into the receiver, then hook it into its slot in the rear of the link.

Re-install the link using screw #3.

Close the lever. Note that the rear of the link

doesn't close all the way.

With your thumb, as you see in the photo,push the link up into the receiver. That forcesthe locking bolt up against the breech bolt,closing the breech bolt. Remember that holefor screw #2 and the Finger Lever Pin? Well,it's centered again.

Align screw hole #2 with the hole in the lever,then drop the Finger Lever Pin in the hole and push it down and home.

Cover the hole with screw #2.

Wiggle the trigger/tang assembly back in place. Re-install it with screw #1.

Slide the stock back in place. You will probably need to tap it on the butt to get it toseat all the way forward.

Re-install the Tang Screw. We're finishedand no parts left over.

Cycle the action a few times to make sure everything is working ok. If you just gave yourrifle its first major cleaning, you'll notice a smoother action.

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