In this issue Imants Udris shows how to make wood toy cars using a common router and plans from toymakingplans.com. He also shows how to use common craft paints to paint the toy cars with a glossy and durable finish. The accompanying 42 minute video explains the entire process.
In this Wood Toy News and accompanying video Imants Udris “Udie” demonstrates the steps he took when building the Freaky Ford Coupe from the ToymakingPlans.com Fat Fendered Freaky Fords plan set.
Udie demonstrates how he crafted a group of templates for quick and easy manufacturing of multiples of each of the toy parts. This is grass roots mass production at a level we all can understand. Then he walks us through applying finishes to each Freaky Ford Coupe using paints and varnishes.
Udie proudly shows his prototypes of the Fat Fendered Ford Coupes. Production of the three coupes was made easily with his wisely applied techniques for using a router for making multiple toy parts.
How to Router and Paint Wood Toys
Master Toymaker Imants Udris shows us how to router and paint the Freaky Fords.
WOOD TOY NEWS
Freaky Ford Coupe made with cedar.
Watch the companion video by copying and pasting this URL in your browser: http://ow.ly/xcBmk
Imants Udris is the Contributing Editor and Photographer for this issue of Wood Toy News.
Hi, Udie here! In this article I will demonstrate how I use a set of templates for quick and easy manufacturing of multiple parts using router bits and the router table. I will also demonstrate how I use a 1/2” shaft, 4-Flute with 2” cutting capacity router bit.
I will be using common MDF, Pine and Cedar and will introduce the use of Sanding Drums and what they offer as a must-have shop tool.
As a side note, in an upcoming Wood Toy News issue I will include the dimensional instructions on
how to build your own Sanding Drum Jig.
Please Note: There is no requirement for templates to be made for any of the ToymakingPlans.com plan sets. Each plan set can be completed by attaching the paper patterns to stock materials, cutting them out and repeating the process for additional builds.
That being said, there is an advantage to building simple templates using materials such as 1/8” hardboard and/or 1/4” hardboard, MDF and plywood.
If you plan on making multiple builds of the same project, templates will allow you to eliminate the repeated step of printing the paper pattern and mounting the paper patterns to your stock materials.
All you will need to do is trace the template on your stock material and go straight to cutting out your traced object.
Your templates can be easily stored in labelled food zip lock storage bags, ready to be used on the next build.
1/2” shaft,4-Flute with 2” cutting capacity router bit.
Udie highlighted the Freaky Ford Coupe by using a white paper background and bright lights when shooting this pro photograph.
A high quality toy like this Fat Fendered Ford Coupe starts with a careful selection of materials and detailed planning. Udie used a quality piece of Cedar to create this masterpiece. The finish he applied is fully explained later in this article.
Watch the companion video by copying and pasting this URL in your browser: http://ow.ly/xcBmk
Step 1: Template Fabrication: The necessity for templates of the various components was driven by the quantity of cars which I will be manufacturing at this time and in the very near future.The templates will be made from 1/2” plywood. See the Feb 14, 2014 issue of Wood Toy News – How to Quickly Make Multiple Toy Parts Using Router Bits”.
Step 1a: The paper patterns were attached to a prepared piece of plywood, which was first covered with a layer of clear packing tape.I find that the packing tape acts as a lubricant for the scroll saw blades.
Step 1b: Next, the patterns were cut close to the outlines, but not as accurately as if you were scroll sawing a finished piece. The reason for this is that I will be sanding the final profiles using a Sanding Drum Jig and Sanding Drum Kit which I will introduce to you shortly. In the video
Step 2: I will be using a Sanding Drum Kit above to sand the templates to their final profile. This type of kit is available at many hardware stores, home improvement centers and online suppliers. It’s a perfect solution for speeding up your sanding operations.
Step 2a: This jig is designed to prevent tipping your work piece into the sanding drum. You have complete control of the amount of materials being removed allowing you to sand quite comfortably to the profile lines/pattern. I will show you in detail how to build this jig in a future Wood Toy News article.
Here is a brief outline of the Steps I will be discussing: 1. Template Fabrication 2. Brief Introduction to Sanding Drums and shop built Sanding Drum Jigs 3. Preparing Stock Materials 4. Tracing Templates 5. Band Saw – Rough Cutting 6. Band Saw Template Tracing Tip 7. Routing 3/4” MDF Body and Fender 8. Bearing Blow Out and Saving the Template 9. Routing 1-1/2” MDF, Pine and Cedar 10. Make a Window Another Way 11. Pre-Sealing/Priming Dry Fit 12. Sealing/Priming Car 13. Painting MDF and Pine Car 14. Review Painted Fenders and Wheels 15. Cedar Car Review 16. Final Product Review
Step 2b: The curve does not meet paper profile where windshield meets hood on the template. I used a 3/4” diameter sanding drum which was too big. To match the template profile, use a 1/2” diameter sanding drum to match the paper pattern. Both fenders were sanded to profile with no difficulty using the Sanding Drum Jig.5/64” holes are drilled for the axles and windows. After routering parts to shape use long finishing nails in holes to mark hole locations to be drilled in parts.
IMPORTANT Step 3: When using MDF stock glue up 2 pieces of 3/4” MDF for 1-1/2” thickness. Let dry then use a large router bit for shaping. Or, use 2 pieces 3/4” MDF and router separately then glue together. Routering makes identical parts and no sanding will be required. The pine and cedar in this article are standard 1-1/2” thickness.
Step 3a: Two pieces of 3/4” MDF were laminated for 1-1/2” stock. Rough cutting will be quite effortless when using the Band Saw. The routering will be more complex so you must use caution. Beginners should not attempt this and seasoned router woodworkers must apply extreme caution during the routering process to prevent injury.
Step 3b: The above photos show the 1-1/2” thick common 2 x 4 framing lumber used for the Pine prototype. Rough cutting on the Band Saw will be easy with this material. Follow the same precautions when routering Pine framing lumber as you would routering MDF. Framing lumber is about the most inexpensive lumber available and makes great toys.
Step 3c: A piece of 2 x 4 dressed Cedar is displayed here which also has a thickness of 1-1/2”. Rough cutting on the Band Saw will be effortless. Follow the same precautions when routering cedar lumber as you would routering MDF. Cedar makes a beautiful toy but Cedar can splinter on sharp edges. Be careful to round all edges to a soft radius to prevent splintering.
Step 3d: 3/4” MDF shown above will be glued together after routering using the template. A standard Flush Trim Router Bit will be used with the template to make these parts. Beginners should be cautious when routering and should review the Feb 4, 2014 issue of the Wood Toy News and also watch the accompanying video on How to Quickly Make Multiple Toy Parts Using Router Bits.
The Freaky Ford Coupe requires 3 templates.
The above templates were sanded to finished shape.
Step 5a: I was able to rough cut these parts on a band saw in only 30 minutes:Qty 5 of MDF, 3/4" thick for glue-ups.Qty 2 from common framing lumber 2” x 8”.Qty 2 from a piece of 2” x 4” dressed Cedar.Qty 2 from MDF 1-1/2” thick (glue-up).Qty 20 from 3/4" MDF for the fenders.
Watch the companion video by copying and pasting this URL in your browser: http://ow.ly/xcBmk
ROUGH CUT - Step 5: To rough cut is to saw generously outside the line of a traced pattern or template to allow for routering or sanding. I rough cut all the parts shown above in 30 minutes.Now I am ready to router the rough cut pieces to their final profile using the templates and router table with a 1/2” Bearing Mounted Flush Trim router bit.
Step 4: Front and rear fenders were easily traced on these 3/4” pieces of scrap MDF and are ready for rough cutting. Again, the same router warnings apply here. The suggestion to read the Feb 4, 2014 Wood Toy News (WTN) and watch the video are merited. And with routing small pieces, the section in this WTN should be studied carefully and understood.
Step 5b: To rough cut the traced templates I recommend a Hobby Band Saw rather than using one like my industrial size Band Saw. I used a 9” Hobby Band Saw years before I purchased an industrial saw and this project can be done just as well with this hobby grade saw. This type of Band Saw is not to be laughed at and you will really enjoy it capabilities, results achieved and the low budget price.
Step 6 - Tracing Tip: In this view you see the Part 2 fender router pattern. I used the pattern to trace the actual size line drawing onto the stock. This will be the finished size of the fender. I like to cut out a part a little larger than it’s finished size and let the router do the work. In the next step I will show you how to easily make an additional line for rough cutting the parts.
Step 6a: Here’s a trick for drawing a line for the rough-cut 1/8” outside the router-line made with the template.Use a washer with outside edge of washer to inside edge at approximately 1/8”. Insert pencil in middle of washer template. This creates a rough-cut outline 1/8” larger than the template
Watch the companion video by copying and pasting this URL in your browser: http://ow.ly/xcBmk
Step 6b: In this photo you can see both lines. The inner line is the actual accurate and finished shape of the toy part that the routering step will create. The outer line is the line that is used to make the rough cut with a band or scroll saw prior to the routering step. You can also see in the photo that the thickness of the washer determines the space between the lines.
Step 6c: You can also use a larger washer that has about 1/4” wide band to make a larger rough cut pattern if you aren’t comfortable using the smaller rough cut pattern on your band or scroll saw. Either method works very well and speeds up the sawing of the rough cut parts. Again, making rough-cut parts in this way speeds completion when routering.
Step 6d: The above photograph shows washers used to trace the template creating 2 rough cut lines to choose from. You may prefer to cut in-between the 2 lines. By using larger washers you can increase the size of any part or template. It’s also a great method to make larger patterns from laser cut-outs purchased at hobby shops and craft stores.
Step 7: First I mounted the Freaky Ford body template to a rough cut blank of 3/4” MDF. I then adjusted the height of the router bit so that the bearing of the Flush-Trim Bit has a sufficient amount of template edge to follow. At this point the 1/2” Flush Trim Bit height was adjusted for routing 3/4” MDF using the 1/2” thick Freaky Ford template.
Step 7a: Remove the template and you can see it is a perfect copy of the template profile. I then marked drilling locations for axle holes and window detail holes. The hole locations were made using a tiny 5/64” drill hole. I then used a finish nail through the holes to make an indent. The indent was used as a marker for the final drilling of the required part holes.
Step 7b: As you can see, the routered pieces are exact copies of the template. This will be an easy glue up of the 2 pieces of 3/4” MDF to yield the final width of 1-1/2”. A little sanding will be necessary after gluing the pieces together. This can be done very quickly and easily with an Extended Sand Drum in the Drill Press. You can also use a sanding block and sand by hand.
Before I discuss routing the smaller fender components, I would like to bring to your attention that these components should not be done using the toy part router template only. Attaching the router template to the rough cut blank is not enough. There is not sufficient material to physically handle and control these pieces and the router safely.
Do not attempt to router small parts without the Plexiglas holder.I explain in detail in the Feb 4, 2014 Wood Toy News and Video how to make a Plexiglas holder.
Step 7c: As you will see, a generous amount of double sided tape is used to hold the part to be routered to the Plexiglas holder. The part must not move during routering. If you are unsure about the method and a bit apprehensive you can always use the Band Saw or Scroll Saw to cut these pieces. This will require more sanding that a routered part but is safer if you are not comfortable using a router.
Step 7d: This photo shows the 1/2” thick router pattern screwed to the Plexiglas. Attached under it is the 3/4” thick rough-cut fender blank that has been generously double-sided taped directly onto the router template. Everything was checked to ensure all components were secure. We are ready to start the router and use the pattern to router the part to a perfect shape.
Step 7e: You can see in the above photo that all of the MDF fenders have been routered to shape. They each match the profile of the fender router pattern exactly. The Plexiglas frame with the green tape edges made the routering very easy and safe to execute. Remember to hold the toy part flat against the router table while routerimg. It makes a perfect part when you don’t rock the pattern.
A Little Problem - Step 8: A little secret - I heard a strange noise and felt something while routing. It was the router bearing blow out. The bearing on the top of the router bit disintegrated while routing allowing the ball bearings to pop out. It may have overheated, drying out the internal lubricant. Whatever the reason, the bearing burned into the template and scorched it. This does not happen frequently, but does happen.
A Little Solution - Step 8a: The damaged bit burned the template. I salvaged the template by modifying the template profile a little bit by sanding off the burned areas. Above you can difference between the sanding-repaired template and original part size. The difference is minimal and does not affect any mating components. I routered the remaining rough cut blanks using the repaired template.
Routering Thick Stock - Step 9: Routering the 1-1/2” stock is serious business. All of the safety precautions I have mentioned earlier and warnings are now multiplied in importance. Let me explain . This thickness requires a 1/2” diameter, 4 flutes (blades) with 2” cutting edges, and a 1/2” mounting shaft on a Flush Trim Router Bit. This is a large and serious router bit. It must be treated with respect at all times.
Plexiglas Holder
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Step 9a: Here the 1-1/2” piece of MDF has been mounted to the template with 2-sided tape. Notice the amount of the router bit’s cutting edge that is exposed. This is not for a novice. The routering is slower than the thinner routered components because twice the amount of material is being removed. The Plexiglas holder allows safe handling of the part at all times.
Modifying Window Step 10: I decided to make the window opening on the Freaky Ford Coupe using the drill press and a long sanding drum, rather than using the scroll saw. This is to demonstrate to you that there are many ways to make a cut-out in project pieces and also to show you how easy a drum sands inside cuts and for cleans up difficult to reach curves.
Step 10a: The position of the 3/4” hole (front of window) is acceptable, but the position of the 5/8” hole (back of the window) is unacceptable. I did not like the back of the window sloping up. But, it does show you that you can produce a nice clean hole/opening with the drilling and sanding drum method shown in the next steps. Let’s get into the details of this.
Step 10b: I have repositioned the center of the 5/8” hole closer and lower more toward the front of the vehicle. After repositioning the rear 5/8” hole the result looked more appealing to me. This is what the Freaky Ford needed. These test drills were done on the 3/4” thick MDF pieces I template routed. Then the new window was created in the 1-1/2” thick MDF piece.
Step 10c: The front window hole used a 3/4” Forstner bit. The depth stop was set so that the Forstner bit barely pierces the bottom of the MDF. This leaves an indent mark on the other side for line-up when drilling from that side. Drilling from both sides eliminates tear out. The indent holes help the bit center itself before drilling. This makes a clean hole.
Step 10d: The rear window profile is made using a 5/8” Forstner bit. Drill down to the depth stop leaving an indent hole, flip the work piece over, let the bit center itself and continue from the other side. Using the same bit, clean up the points where the two holes overlap. This method and the drum sander makes a window quicker than with a scroll saw.
I marked & drilled a 3/4” hole and a 5/8” hole for my window.
Watch the companion video by copying and pasting this URL in your browser: http://ow.ly/xcBmk
Step 10e: Lower the sanding drum thru the opening with the bottom of sanding drum below the surface of sanding drum jig. Sand the opening to its final profile. First remove the material between the two holes on the lower portion and top portion. Raise the sanding drum, flip your work piece over and sand the opposite inside of the window.
Step 10f: It is an advantage to use a Crepe Block to clean the sanding drum before use. Clean off the sanding dust and gum by pressing the crepe block against the drum. The pressure heats up the crepe making it sticky. The sticky crepe attaches to the debris cleaning it. It works like magic. I’ve also used an old rubber hammer head with the same good results.
Step 10g: Above is the result after sanding the window profile. Close inspection shows me that a little more sanding is required where the two holes overlapped to eliminate that little bump we see. Other than that, it is a nice clean window profile. And with the use of the Forstner bits and sanding drum, it was very quick and easy to complete.
Step 11: All my projects are sealed or primed before the painting process. Before I open the container for sealing/priming I do a test fit of all the pieces. I first line up each of the components with set-up pieces, such as the rough cut wheels and axles. I position the components on the main body and when they are lined up I trace their outline for future assembly.
Step 11a: Why bother tracing the fender outline? When using different colors I glue parts together after all the pieces have been painted separately. I need to trace the location of the fenders so that I do not apply sealer/primer in these areas where I will be applying glue. I want the maximum adhesion of wood to wood. I prefer not to glue parts to painted surfaces.
Step 12: When using spray paint simple masking is done with painter’s tape. The outline is seen thru the tape. Position the fender on the tape and trace. Xacto cut tape about 1/8 of an inch inside fender outline. Remove the outside tape leaving the masked portion inside fender outlined area. Glue will be applied here at assembly. After spraying remove tape and continue assembly.
Step 12a: Now it is time to apply the sealer. I like the Delta Ceramcoat sealer available at most hobby and craft stores. I apply a minimum of two coats of sealer. I smooth out each coat with light sanding in-between coats with 320 grit sand paper. The more coats you apply, the smoother and more glossy your final finish will become. I often use 3 or 4 coats.
Step 12b: I do not wish to paint the Cedar - that would just be wrong. These Cedar test pieces are made from scrap. One piece is coated with Cynthia’s Non-Toxic Paste and another piece with 2 coats sealer plus two coats varnish. It is best to use scrap pieces identical to the wood of the final product. That way you’re sure of the results before applying final finishes.
Step 13: MDF does not have grain, but the sawn surfaces act like end grain and will soak up a lot sealer. You will quickly experience how the sealer is being absorbed by the MDF. Multiple coats may be required with sanding between each coat with 320 grit sand paper. I am not concerned with bubbles. These will be sanded off when dry.
Step 13a: Hurrying caused sealer to drip off of the fender. I am usually more careful when applying sealer and apologize for being so sloppy. Using my trick of hot-melt gluing a nail to the unpainted side of the fenders, I have made handle for the fender for easy application of the sealer. After painting the work piece, use the nail to place the piece to dry in the drying rack.
Step 13b: I use common craft paints, which dry quite quickly in an hour, lightly sanded and a second coat of paint applied. Glue areas are clear of paint for wood to wood gluing surfaces. Using a wide fine tipped brush, saturate the brush with paint and apply as you would normally do. Apply one coat, let it dry, lightly sand, apply a second coat. Apply additional coats if desired.
Step 13c: Make the necessary repairs after routing and continue painting. I use common wood filler. Applying paint to the Pine Freaky Ford is exactly the same as with painting the first coat on the MDF Freaky Ford. A thick first coat will fill in the little dimples in the wood and once sanded the second coat will go on much smoother.
wood filler was applieddue to tear out when routered.
Watch the companion video by copying and pasting this URL in your browser: http://ow.ly/xcBmk
Step 13d: Pine sometimes requires more than one to two coats of sealer to make an opaque finish. There are white opaque sealer/primers also available at craft stores. The opaque white surface sands easily when dry and makes a perfect base for transparent colors like red or yellow.
Step 13e: The fenders were not glued to the Freaky Ford bodies because I elected to paint them another shade of red. It is easier to paint them off the vehicle rather than on the vehicle. Before painting, each fender was hot melt glued to a 2 inch nail to make a handle to hold while rotating and painting the 3 painted surfaces. The glue surfaces were not painted.
Step 14: This photo also shows the 3 stages of final finishing prior to assembly:Bottom left – sealed fender 2 coats.Bottom middle – painted fender 3 coats.Bottom right – gloss varnish applied, 2 coats.
Once the remaining 2 fenders are painted they will all be ready for the final assembly.
Step 14a: The wheels are finished the same as the fenders but with the backs of the wheels also painted black and varnished. The axle hole diameter is slightly smaller than the head of the nails used as drying stands. By inserting the nail head at an angle into the axle hole and straightening the nail, the wheel is held to it by pressure fit. That securely mounts the wheel for painting and for applying the varnish.
Step 15: Cedar samples: Left - untreated, natural Cedar. Middle -Treated with Cynthia’s Non-Toxic Bee’s Wax giving more life to the grain. Right - 2 coats of sealer sanding between coats, then 2 coats of Craft Gloss Varnish sanding between coats with 320 grit sand paper, then treated with 1 coat of Bee’s Wax paste. This treatment brought life to the grain and gave a warm wood tone to the toy.
Step 16: It’s time for a workshop confession. You may be wondering why the treated fenders appear to be different in tone when compared the body of the car. Our dog loves chomping on Cedar pieces of wood. I left the fender pieces on a low table in the workshop and she helped herself when I was away from the workshop. I had to substitute another piece of similar toned Cedar!
I hope you have enjoyed this issue of Wood Toy News as much as I have enjoyed creating it. Stay tuned for more great toymaking tips in future issues!
Imants Udris “Udie”
Be sure to watch Udie’s companion video by copying and pasting this URL in your browser: http://ow.ly/xcBmkOR visit the Wood Toy Workshop section of our website
