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  • ~I"'I:LI








    At(tInQ. COpUof ffl\\(le _1M!

    pu))l~}:f('~to fillllJ; filw,$0",. _$0.''''

    A\'t!1'lp QO. f:1IP1(-.I!IIch~dunDK

    I)ft.\l-.",bng12 lllOIl~

    seeuon in this issue; an index to the con-tents of the first 24 issues of IVoodsmith,plus a page of sources for mail-order wood-workh)g catalogs.The indexshoutd help locate articles and

    projects in past issues. We'll up-date itagain next year ill the January issue.The list of catalogs includes almost all of

    the mail-order sourees we've used for thep)'ojects shown in past issues of lVood-~mith. This list is by no means 1I completeac.PHO'I'OCRAPIIS. There's something different about the photographs in this issue.We've been experimentingwith a new pho-tographic process. In past issues, all of thephOtOgl.phs were printed ill a processknown as a duo-tone. This is basitaUy ablack-and-white photo that's printed intwo colors (brown and black in our ease).The photos ill this issue are still printed

    in only two colors (which is \\'h,' !(reenleaves look brown ill the photo on thecover), but we've changed the way lhephotographs are processed so rhey nave alittle more life in them.

    We're still ill the experimental stages.with this new approach, but 1 think it'skind pf exciting. It should improve thequality of the photos so ,.ou get a muchbetter picture of what the project' reallylook like.

    lNI>&X.We're including a ~pecial.j-Ilage

    A. T(ol;llM._l"'9itJI Imnlcd (IIIltp~ r".lI'I) ~.B. PAId ()n-u)"don

    I~Sal.tnn;o$(lI dt-A1o;""and Q.Trit."lI. M~t "I!OOQrlt.!!d tOu-."fUlt #Al('li .

    2. MnU .tublkod'ptloft'f ~ .C. l'.otAIpaid d.n:tiliItlOn (Slun (l( lOBI 1M! IOSZ> .. ~.~ (.D. ~I.\ ~;rl b)' (Mit. ditor. aM1I~~t'dttor; Pu,Mi~l)qt:DGtlilkJB.1~~~ktt,U)12(: .. ~ A nUII.I)f.so)loiltot>t,. !~''''";l6((il)9.Ecijlor.~_Pllb!~hN}. "' 11&dlwt(noM). 7. ()-.I.'!Wr. DntlOlldS. Pttlthkt'. l&l2(;r.lt\d 1\\ De.- "'OUIt'll, 1(J..... ij(GZI. .8.Known 1:xmdho:.1(1ft,I7JOnS!U~I)(!t.~(llhtt~rit>"holrI8'liOWmhf l PIlI"(Clllflfmoreo.(t01.I,ItMllnt oI't.,lIll. fllMt~QrQlltel'lII!('l;,;tic: :\!)nIt. 9, (~,lC)t ilP'JlQ') 1(1.&x.toM.-u:.'lIl nAIU,1"f\of dl"C\llatlc:ln:

    SawdustJan.lFeb., 1983Number 25



    It you'd like 10 sIlare a woodworking lip wilh olhe,readers 01 Woodsmilh. send your Ides 10:WoodSmilh. TIps & Techniqu8S, 1912 GrandAv&.,Des Moines, Iowa50309.W.pay a mlnimuln9t$10 lorlips. and SIS or

    more for special lecl1nlques-(Ihal ere accepledtorpublica lion).Please givea comple!eexplana-tion 01you, Idea. If a skelcl1 is needed, send italong; we'll draw a new one.


    in the corners between the pins. What I'vedone to eliminate this aggravation is pur-chase lWO inexpensive V( chisels andregrind ~hem at a skew (one has a 15right-handed skew. and the other has 0 15left-handed skew).The long point of t.he skewed chtsels

    really helps to !1et into the tight cornersbetween the pins when it comes time toclean everything up.

    Joh,. R. l,[ot."tjoyTVj"slon-Sale1Il,North Carotin(f


    I'd like to make 8 suggestion to the readersofl'l'ooosmitil that J find to be very helpfulwhen hand-cutting lap dovetails.

    I've found that the hardest, part 'in cut-Linglap dovetails is cleaning out the waste


    Ihave a suggestion fo" quick and accuratesetLing orlhe miter gauge on the table saw.For common angles (30, 45', 00', 90"), Iuse good 12"-14"drafting triangles (avail-able at art supply stores) to set the mitergauge. They're extremely accurate, andyou get the same angle every time.

    Bruce WaldvogeLMa.nteno, Illinois

    S. IV. !1athawaySudb",'y, ,llassaciUlsetts

    ing fixtures, but it does take a little timeand patience. The end result is three abso-lutely flat surfacea.

    Paul /nutl14l1sonMOlstillts, nUnois


    I use a piece of Masonite peg board as amarking gauge to drill evenly spaced holesin cabtnerstdes, etc. The advantage of pegboard is (hat you can cut it to the size of thepiece being drilled, and then just hold itagainst the side of the cabinet. It's easy tokeep everything flush and square, and theholes are evenly spaced every time.



    I've fount! that whenever ('m using ear-"iage bolts in wood, the square shoulder(that's supposed to hold the bolt securely)has a tendency to slip when I'm tl'ying toremove a nut on the other end.

    What l've done to counter this effect isto cut a slot into the end or the bolt with ahack saw. Then 8SI'm removing the bolt, Ican insert a screw driver in t.,heend of thebolt to keep it from turning.This bas been particularly helpful when

    working with woods Lhat have deter-iorated frorn age, or when the nuts oncarr-iage bolts have to be removedfrequently.

    router and a trammel point on the backside of the blank.Then I position the jig on the router

    table SOthat the bit is only h"Lkinga lightcut when the blank is held against the sidesof the "V". After the jig is clamped illposition the blanks are "outed in acounter-clockwise direction, keeping pres-sure against both sides of the jig, andagainst the surface of the table.

    Bria.1!SmithKey_s',., West VilyiniCL


    In WoOds-mitk No. 23, you described atechnique to flatten the bottom of a handplane using two surfaces. '1:0 be honest,you must have gotten lucky because the t----------------ionly way to get a tnlely Oat surface is byusing three surfaces, not two. t-----------------lStart by marking the surfaces 1, 2, anda. Then rub SUI-faces 1 and 2 together

    (using the silicon carbide slurryas an abra-sive) until they show good contact all over.Theil rub surfaces 2 and 3 togethel" andfinally surfaces 3 and 1. By using finer andfiner grades of silicon carbide slurries, youcan get any degree of polish you want,'fhis method doesn't take any fancy hold-

    that have no pilot bearings (since the jigilselflimits the width of cut the bit makes).And finally, when it come& lime to rout

    the edge on the finish side ofaround blank,I can do it accurately wttheut, ha\'ing tomar the face of the blank with a trammelpoint (which requires "tilling a hole On therace sides of 8 blank for the trammel pointto ride in.)To make the jig. I used a piece of 0/,"

    plywood approximately 12' x 30". Then Imade bl'Q cuts for the opening as shown inthe diagtaln. (Iuied to keep the two sidesof the "V" at a 45angle from the f"ontsideor the jig). Then where the two "ides orthe"V" meet, I cut a 3" square opening forclearance around the routei- bit.

    Next, Iattached a hinged bit guard tothe back side of the 3"'square opening. Thisway, the guard can be flipped up out orlheway when not in use.To use the jig, I've found the key thing to

    watch fo,' is that the round blanks are cutout as cleanly all possible. And the bestmethod I've Iound to do this is to use the



    In addition to being multiples of eachother, the dimensions of these drawersallow you to cut all the pieces from stan-dard construction lumber (t.4's and Ix6'5)with very tittle waste (see CULting Dia-gram on page 1).

    One last thing, these drawers are de-signed to take full advantage of multipJe-culting techniques. Once you make a set-ting for one drawer, it's Ihe same on alldrawers (no matter what size they are).


    In normal construction proeedures, youwould decide on the size of the cabinet lir.tand then build the drawers to ti~the cabi-net. But since there are so many drawers,J wanted to simplify the drawer eon-struction as much as possible.

    I finally decided to build this Shop StOI"age Cabinet. lb takas up less than 2 squarereeL of Ooor space, yet there's almost 13square feet of storage "rea.


    The cabinet shown here has 12 d...awers:six small, five medium, and one largedrawer. However, the size and number ofIhe drawe ." can be sltered to suit yourneeds. Each drawer is a multiple of theothers: A medium-size drawer takes upexactly twice the space of two smalldrawers. And the large drawer equals onemedium and one small drawer. (If I W!1l"building another cabinet, I'd skip the largedrawer and replace it with three smalldrawers. These small drawers are reallyhandy for all sorts of things.)

    "Where am 1going to put all this stuff? I'venm out of baby-rood ja'')S and littl'l plasticdrawers; and I need a place to put all theaescrews, brads, sandpaper, bolts, nuts. anda dozen little tools.

    "HoW about j' caPine~? Something aboutthe &ize of R three-drawer file cabinet thatdoesn't take up much flool' space. Thatshould work. And it should have a lot ofshallow drawers ... and the drawersshould have 'medular' divide..,>,that can bearranged any way I want them."

    I had these thoughts one Saturday as Iwas going through my monthly "cleaneverything in the shop" routine. ( wasgetting frustrated with little plasticdrawers tllat don't hold enough, and bigworkbench drawers tbat force you to piletool. on top of tools.

    __ S_h_o~Sto~e CabinetA PLACE FOR EVERYTHING

  • "." MASONITE" 6.ACKo


    fiGURE 3 /..

    /g- ~~~~NO'1A1l'RONT~ 7: :NER JOINI

    J/.. EOGING STRIP'..... ,

    ~ ,,_~,~~.~.~/~

    NAil SA2K IN 'tACt

    ._. RA&8Ef Ie 'IJ~DEEP ON SIDES


    1/. JlAflGET 1('!I Dn"

    --j1-' ------16lA

    ~~ ~_'LL~~



    1~__====_~V.~ have a lot of

    grooves for the drawer runners (see J)ig,1), and I wanted to make sure these.grooves lined up perfetU)' 00 both side~.

    To do this, 1cut a piecegfplywood to tbef;It1:ltom edgeof the workpiece against the fence, Note:There's no need for a 1"'00\'. (01'a runner)for the bottom drawer,

    RII'1'O \\'10'1'11.Aftel' the gI"OOV.' are cutin the double-wide workpiece. rip the twosides to final width to match the lop andbottom. Then eut a rabbet on the back edgeof both pieces for the cabinet's back.

    ASSb:lIBLY. Before the top, bottom andsides are assembled, I cut lhe \1



    G~=====~~~_w w w_~=======~~v..OiVIDER.10P VIEW TONGuE

    r-r ~ 0" '''OSlIdO(Ibeyond the drawer's back. As thedrawer is pulled out, you naturally stopwhen you see the drawer back. But ifyoupull a little too far on these drawers,(her~8 still enough left on the drawer Sidesso they don't fall out of the cabinet.


    NllW the fun be~n$. I spent the better partof a day cutting all the pieces fQr the 12drawers. To speed thing>


    PLYWOOD 48'" x 48" '1....MASONITE 48")( 96"

    A C 0 C C E

    A C C C e0

    a c c c e0/,(' 'x 5'06" _ 96"

    ~ j -I ! t-Itt !-! ~ ~ !

    L N 0

    'I'" X 3V," . 96"p p p p p .1 pp ~ p p 0 0

    0 o o A R A

    R r, S s 5 I s


    D Ma.onift Cale 80cle (') V.. X 34'/, . 16V.E Mosonlte Dividers cut to fitF SmQIISid., (12) "Iit. x 1"lro ... 15'/"G SmoU Fron', (6) V.x 1"/1.~14Y"H Small Bo,k. (6) 'I. x I'l/III ~14'1.1 Small DIviders (6) 1/.1x IV. 14V.J Runners {24} V.xYttSK Handl (12) 1,1, xV; lS'/.l Largo Sides (2) :v.. x S~,. t5v..M Largo Front (1) 'f,J )t 5'11 '.'/.1N lorge B.,k (I) '/ ...x 5'/10 - 14.t0 lorg. Divider (1) 0/., x 4'4 ~ 14'1.P Medium Sidos (10) 'I. )r 37/, IS'V'"Q Modium ',ont. (S) 0/.. )t 3Y',


    sides so it can be divided into halvas.)Although some corrections can be made

    on these sub-assemblies, it's rather im-portant tc got as close as possible whencutting the bevels. (Por eight-sided as-sembly the blade angle is set to 22110.)

    SP.'M'IKGTIIES,\WlJIAI>~. The most aceu-rate method I've found to set the bevel oflite blade is to use an adjustable triangle.(Adjustable triangles thaI can be set to anydegree between ifand 90'. Sec IVood$),lithNo. 20 fo,' more Oil these triangles.)Set the angle on the adjustable triangle

    and hOldit against the body of the blade (soit doesn't touch any otthe teeth). To checkthis setting, go ahead and cut a pi'ICCofscrap wood, and thell check thel)evel oihcaclll~,1cut. (The best way to do this, is toduplicate the angle on a sliding bevelgauge.)If the angle is off, adjust the blade and

    make another test cut until you get as closeas possible, (Sligh~ errors can be com-pensated fOI' later.)


    Once Lhebevel is set, Icut eight strips tothe widths needed for all of the cylinders.(See p8g~10 fo)' the widths of each stavefor the four dirfel'~nt size eanisters.) Justto be on [he safe side, ( cut one ext ra slaveper cylinder.

    After all of the staves are bevel-rippedto width. cut them to length. ero com-pensate for some Joss dUling the turningprocess. cut the staves about 2" longerthan their finished lengths.)

    LA vour AN 0 111;.\RKJ N(; Trl ST-A,rES.When the staves have been cut, la)' theeight staves side by 'Sideand arrange themto get a nice grain pattern. Then to keepeve"ylhing in order, number aU of thestaves to maintain theil' sequence duringthe ~Iuing process,


    It's possible at this point to glue all eightstaves together at once to form a cylinder.But whenever i I,), this, I wind up withfrayed nerves and an expanded vocab-ulary. Instead, I glue the staves into setsOf two, then into sets of four, and tinallyinto the completed cylinder. The first twosteps of this gluing procedure are donewith hand pressure only.

    Hand pressure only? Does that "eallywork without using Clamps?

    Ie's surprising what you can do with alittle pre ss ure and the right glue. I useTitebond glue, which is a tnst-setling glueth makes it possible to "clamp" the

    Any error in the angle of the bevel ismultiplied by 16- a \/,' error in the bevelsetting' adds up to 4' e""OI' when theassembly is glued together. That's morethan enough to create some unsightlygaps.

    SOI,t,J'rtON. The best way I've found toget around this problem i. to make twosub-assemblies for the cylinder. Each sub-assembly consists of one-half the totalnumber of sides.The. advantage of two half-cylinders is

    that they can be sanded to mate pe,'fectly(which we'll get to Inter). (This also meansthe cylinder must have an even number of


    The best \\Jily to determine the "right"number of sides for the size cylinder youwant is to draw it out on paper fir,t. For allfour canisters shown in the next article, Iknew ( wanted Itwall thiekness of 0/,. plusat least Vi' for "'aslo (when t,ruing up thecylinder walls),Since the largest canister presented the

    most problems, I started with it. Idrew acircle wtth a radius o( 3,),'('(for a diamete"of 60)(0, see Fig. 1. Then r drew anotherone inside it with a radius of 2JI.. ' (which isenough for the %" wall thickness, plus theW' for waste).It turned out that using ~/4 .stock 1'01'

    an eight-sided assembly worker! [(U' thelargest canister, and it also worked well onall the smaller sized canisters.


    Once I decided on eight sides, l had tobevel-rip the sides to make the cylinder.The angle of the blade for tbese cuts isc"itical - even a slight.error can lead to bill'headaches. In the case of an eight-sideda~sembly tot' example, there are eightjoints. BuLeachjoint consistsof two sides.So, there are 16 cuts involved.

    Almos; every tUllling project begin. bygluing' up enough wood to work with. Thisusually means laminating several smallpieces to get One big chunk of wood.If the shape you're wO"king with is a

    cylinder, the size (and weight) of thatchunk of wood can quickly get oul of hand... unless you use stave construction.This method of laminating isjust a vari-

    ation on a mitered fI-amc. The only differ-ence is that the miters (or bevels in thiscase) are cut on the sides of each board,rather than on the ends.'l'hen lhese boards are glued together to

    form a six, eight, ten or twelve-sided"cylinder." It's just like building a barrel(or a hot tub, for tbose of you under 40).The result ofthis method oflamination is

    a woodtumer's dream come true. Staveconstruction eliminates the nagging P"ob-lem of end t,...ain on ~he perimeter of thecylinder.'fhe,biggestadvantage, however, is cost

    savings. stave construction uses veryIitt.ie lumber because (he whole point is tocreate an almost round surrace to beginwith. This, of course, also speeds up theturning prOCO$$.


    The fu'SLstep in stave construction is tochoose the lumber. From a visual stand-point, certain types of wood work betterfor this type of assembly. In fact, if thelight type of wood is used, the joint linesare almost invislble. (Thus. the cylinderdoesn't look like a bunch of SCI'llPS gluedlogether.)The best woods are the open-grained

    species: oak, ash, butternut, walnut andmahogany. a used butternut for on thecanisters shown in the follo\\'ing article,and kotl for the bowl on page 24.)There's one other factol' in choosing [he

    wood. If the lumber is warped, twisted, orbowed, i~s almost impossible to cut thestaves cOrleetly. And the joints will neve,'be Light. The solunon is to use only Oat,straight (expensive) wood.


    Once the wood has been selected, the nexthurdle is deciding the number of sides forthe cylinder. This sounds simple enoug\l,but it takes some planning.The ultimate goal is to tum a cylinder (a


  • 9WOODSMl'fH

    6 Cla"IP 'h. cyli'ldtrr t~th plywo04disc !Isiy'g a Kf-P CYlINDE8CENY$IftI

    wHEN ClAMPING f';:: .....:::;;;:::;~

    3To con'eel, a"y .11'01' i'l u be-vels,sand rJw assemblies 011v.jlaJ.l""face,Occ(),iO'lUllll/ rolaw Ihe aS$embly e1ll1fo)'eltd to preve'lt rounding OW,,. Ihe edge.,

    5 To mD',,!!(tn cyliru~1' 0)1 the lathe,prepare. a plywood disc by draJving Itcircl "'InaIto tit" ))U!1I:UIlU'''' diameieofthe C'ytilldel', Cellltrr cylinder Oll tllis If.,

    / HA"CYUI'.'Y

    l11 $i1'






    ,-\c )I


  • 1 1WOODS},{jTli

    6 Use the w.


    12Wlw>! the ou4ide rbn i.done, jorllltlie neck oj'tlte knob ami Ihe IwIlO'ItarOllnd the n.ck with a rOIt/ld-nosedM''per. l'Jlenfi,,;sh tUT1Ii?>.g/1

  • AnglesCornpounclI6:10-l'IFor Mile!'s 12:14

    Bell Rail Fasteners 21:2:3Bench Hold-Down 23:3Branding Irons to-3Bullet catches 19:12Cabinet ScrapeJ'l1 14:2, 14:12-1''Inttening 20:13Jap3l1~SC'V~te,'Stones 2$:18-19.24:4-6Oil Stones 20:I-G,21):10.20:12-1:!

    Silicon Carbide Slul1'y ~:6. 2,1:23'('able Legs, Const"uction ExamplesCnte Leg 20:14-16Pedestal 11:6Straight 14:10, 1;;:4Tapered 11:4. 11:8. 14:4, 23:12. 2H:2


    Box JOint 17:16-19Dado 6:4, 6:5, 1:8-9, 12:6, 13:6, 22:20DadQI'l'ongue (RabbetJDado) 6:6-7, 9:5,9:U. 10:8, 18:7,21:7,22:14,24:10,24:22,24:24

    DovetailLap (Flalf-Blind) 11..4, 12:7. 22:14Through 19:14-15, 19:19, 19:20-22, 19:24Tongue and Groove 9:6-7, 11:6-7,

    20,26-21, 20:24


    Box Joint 2:4, 17:12-1aDadorrongue (al~o taU~d Rabbet/Dado I6:8. 10:9. 1$:2021

    DovetailLap (Hair-Blind), Hand-cut 22:4-6Lap (Half-Blind), M"Qhinc-cut 22:(;.9'through 19:6-11Throngh Rabbeted 21:$Tongue and Groove 9:7, 20:22

    Dowel. Blind 12;9D''01l Leaf (Rule) lillO, 1~:8F,dge-LQ-Edge 15:6-7, 16:12-15. 17:6-9.

    18:111-19~'ingel' Joint 17:12-13(rl'OOI'C, Stopped 2:5, 15:4Half Lap. l\1itered 2:! IMite.,Cross 12:9. 21:8-9. 21:17Locked 9:10~lalhem.li cs 12:14RipiBevel 7:11, 9:9. 16:11

    ~Io''lise AIld TenonHaunehed (for Groove) 8:3-6, 13:10-11,

    18:8,9Molded Edge 24;12-13Open (Mite.'ed) 16:16-17, 16:18Open ('fh.'ough) 24:18-19Staggered Shoulder 13:10-11'l\dn Tcnoll* 8:5, 12:12'''edged 15:12

    RabuetlDaclo 6:8. 10:9, 18:20Splines

    Edge-to-Edge 1;;:4,23:22~til:The artielea listed in this section refer Loprojects that use a particulru' joiot. Thesereferenees may be-helpful in deciding whenand how ~ joint can bo used,



    All of the smaller pl'ojecls ana projects forlhe llhOp are listed ill this section.

    Boxes, SmallEnd Grain 'rop 1;;;1:1Jewelry 9:5Music Box 6:6Recipe Box 10:8Routed, Pree Form 18:12Slide-Top 17:14Spice Box, Six-Drawer 6:;)

    FramesElall Mirl'o" 21:16Octagonal 12:8Oval 5:9Note Board 18:24Round Min' ' 12:10

    SI\OI>PI'OjectsBow Saw 5:5Diamond Point Holder 20:7Drin Bit Storage 4:9Improved 'fOol Rest 20:7Leather Slt'Opping Pad 20:7Marking Gauge 19:13Nul and seu Storage 4:5, 15:J~Pencil and Card Holde" 2:12Revolving Tool Holde" 4:9Routar Case 4:3Rouler Table 5:6-8. 20:18Router Table Stand 22:16Sharpening Slone Box 20:7ShOI) Cart 1~:1'1Shop Stool ,1:11'fool Holder 4:12Trammel Point 20: 13Wedge Clamps 5::~

    Small ProjectsBelt Buckle 10:6Bindel' 7:4Book Rack 7:12Bread Beard 1:1, 20;24Candle Sconce 6:5Chrlstmss Ornaments 6:1Coin Holder 10:6Coin Sorter 16:9Compass 7:3CooHng Rack 1:2Cookbook Rack 6:4Knife H.olcler 10:7Letter Opener 10:7Pencil and Card Holder 2:12Rack> Shaker Peg 2:3ServingTI-ay 19:19Spice Box 6:3Spinning Server 21:10'ric Rack 1:2Ti'ivel21:24Waste Basket 7:0

    BenchesGarden 3:8'rl'estl~ 23:2


    ,"-.t\glc CuttingHexagon 12:11, 16:8. 18:3Mite,' 12:14, 21:8.21:17Octagon 12;9Tapered Bevel 16:11

    Beads, Cutting 14:11, 16:3Cabinet Scraper 14:12-13, 17:8Carpenter's Triangte 15:16CircleCutting 19:3Routing 20:13, 20:17, 21: lO11Sanding 11:12

    ClampingFinger 1:6Hexagonal Frame 12:11Octagonal Frame 12:9Table 1'01):; 15:7. 11:3Wedge 3:3

    CleaningOil Stones 20:13Saw Blades 2J:23

    Cove, Cutting 12:16. 20;23Curves, Drawing 21:23


    The arucles listed in this section .giveinlin'mation and detail. fol' speciJi~ wood-wo,'king techniques and procedures (ex.cept for joiner)'),

    Jigs (conlinued)Radial Arm Cut-OCf 17:3Radial Arm Moruse 16:18Rnised Panel 2:10, 20:3ReSOWing6:9Tambours, Gluing 17:5Taper CutLing 1:6, ,:;:4, U :3, 11:11'I'enon Cutting 24:18

    Laminating 10:9, 15: 13~Iarking Gauge so.is, 21::1MitersCutting 12:1~. 20:&-9Mathematics 12: 14

    Panels, Raised 2;10, 8:6, 1-5:12,18:10,20:3,2>1:21

    Plywood, Edging 22:3, 22:11, 22:22Radial Ann Saw

    CuI Off 17:3, 22;;3M.o,tise Jig 16:18Replacement Inserts 2tl:llRoutel' Jig 20:3

    Resawing 6:9, 17:5Rosa" Inserts 22:11. 2.1::)ROllting

    CiI:tleg 20:1$, 20:17, 21:1011, 24:9DJili Pres.< 10:J 1-}2Round Corners 17:5Router Table 7:10. 10:1l, 18:3, 22:16,24:3, 24:2$

    \Vith Template 4:'1. 13:~:lSanding

    Circles 11:12, l~:lJDowels 9:12Glass IS:3SmaU Areas 13:3, 15:3

    SharpeningCabinet Scrapers 1,1:1;!Chisels 20:81)Clearance Angles 20:8. 2.1:18Diamond Stone$ 23:18, 24:7Hollow Grinding 20:~, 2.~:ISJapanese \Vater StoJWs 24:,]6Lathe Tools 21:22, 22~23Mict'o-BeveIR 20:11, 2a:19Plane Irons 2;3:{~ 19Stropping 20:It

    Sharpening StonesCI~.ning20:13Flattening 20:4-6, 20:13

    SI)linosCulting 10:3, 21:9USC$ 16:10,21:(>,21:10,21:12,2:1:13

    Table Stl\\', Alignment 20::), 28:31'8ble TOI~qLeaf Sqppo)'I$ 11:8, 1


    One of the biggest headaches in WQOOC'llAP'!' SUPPL.Y "WORTH HAVING" KT"OClCl'rWoodworking is lryiltg to find ,11 Atlantic ,Avenue P.O. Box (529the tools, hardware and fin- P.O. Bo~ ')000 CATALOGS Laki! Geneva. Wisconsin 5alJ7ishes needed to build a project. lVobnrn, MaS$achusoll'l Ol81j8 The following catalogs tend to Tel: ('Il-l) 248-1~More and more we've come to Toll F"ee: (Soo) 22ij1J5.3 specialize ill certain areas. CaUllog: Free (48 pages)depend on mail-order CtIUlI()gs Catlllog; 82,50 (128 pages) Each one is certainly worth Good selection of quartzfor easy access to almost every Majrrr qmplta~i8:Quatity hand having, if you're interested ill (b"tteI'Y operated) clock move-woodworking product we tools for wood\~or!ring, turning its individual area, (Listed ments, (lnd also parts andneed. Hel'e'" a list of the eata- and carving; Hard-to-find alphaoolieally, l accessories.logs we use most


    dangerous, The problem is that you can'thold the workpiece square to the fence asyou feed it through the bit,

    '1'0 get around this problem I use asimple piece of plywood as a stabilizingguide, Just, hold the workpiece against theplywood to keep it square with the fence asyou move it th,'o.ugh the bit,

    f~nce, This il; ~impll' a matter of cutting'anothel' strip the same width 8$ the fence.

    Before adding this second strip, cut twosmall squares of \I.i" plywood. GlUe theplywood squares to the ends of the first.fence, and then add the top strip, This willform a II..' groove for a carri age bolt thatholds the wooden stop block to the fence,

    IISINGTH~JJ(~. To gel the best.Ieleanest)cuts when using this jig, [ use a three-cutprocedure. Pi,'St, cut all of the pieces to aI'ough length (about y," longer thanneeded), Then cut a clean end on one end ofeach rough piece,

    ~lnt'k the final length on one of the pieces(measu,ing from the clean end), an(\ adjustthe stop block so the cut is made on thismark, AU remaining pieces can be cut toidentical length using the block as a surestop for the !llllli length.


    '!'he second jig is used for ripping verynal'IOOW strip,', like the tambour strips fOl'the T, V, Cabinet shown in this issue, Thenormal procedure when cutting narrowstrips is t.o work otT the outside of the



    board. (If the cut is made so the all'ip isbetween ,he blade and the rip fence,there's a danger or klckback.)

    But this procedure is kind of a hasslebecause you have to re-set the fence fo,'each cut. To get around this problem, I usea push shoe that allows you to rip very1181'1'OW pieces with-a'llt re-setting' Lhefence,'fo make this shoe, ril) a piece ofplywood

    to a width of about 6", 11lell make asecond(Ilal'tial) cut about II," from the outsideedge of the shoe, Stop this cut 3" to 4 fromthe end of the plywood and cut.offthe looseedge with a hand saw. This will create asmall "heel" ($tOII)at the end of the shoe,To rip the tambour strips, hold the shoe

    firmly against the fence and measure thewidth ofcut you want (Yo.in this case) Iromtbe lert side of the shoe to the inside of theblade, Then use the shoe to push the work-piece through the blade,


    One last (very simple) jig, When I cham-fered the top edges ofthe table legs for theCoffee 'table, j wanted til use tbe routertable, BuLmaking any kind of cut on theend ora long-narrow workpiece (like a tableleg) is tlWkW81'd at best, and sometimes

    Temporarily tack the plywood to therunner with small brads, Then pick up thebase and turn it over to drill pilot holes anddrive SCI'e"'$ to secure the runnel' to Lhebase, Return this assembly to the saw andmount the outside runner so .it fits sl)uglyagainst the wooden sl,,;p on the end of theextensicn wing,

    Now Illim lhe working end of the basesquare l)y pushing it lhl'ough the sawbtade. (This way you know the end of thebase is exactly on the path of the blade,)TI)EPI!NCE,Finally, add the fence to the

    trailing edge of lhe base, Chamfer theinside edge of this fence to create It Saw-dust relief, Then use a large framingsquare to position the fence square withthe working edge (and the blade), and glueand nail it in place,

    Up LO this point the jig is the same as tbeone shown in Woocfflmit/I No, 18, But re-eently I added a moveable stOll to lile

    may wat to add a wooden strip to the edgeof the wing.)

    ASSEMBLY, To assemble the jig. placethe fit'St runner ill the miter gauge channeland spread a thin bead of glue along the topof it. Then position the plywood base over~he runnel' so the "working" end of theplywood extends into the path Mtlle blade.

    .,ble saws can do II lot of things, but.mctimes !.hey need atitt,le help, We used

    . ,'u llifferenl cutting jigs (0 make some of'

    . be "specialty" cuts needed for the projectsthis issue,


    The Iirst Jig is one we oliginally used to cut"Iued-up panels to size back in lVoQdsmilit:-;0, 18,Since then we've been using it tormore and more "specialty" cuts.

    Cl"l'TINO 1.0l!lCPANfllS, For instance, theplywood top of the Cortee Tuble in thisissue had tilbe cut to a length of 44 !&", Thisi.< a difficult cut to make because the Tiprence (on most saws) can't go beyond 24",and a miter gauge is too small to giveadequate support for a workpiece thislarge, Instead, Iused the panel-cuttingjigk. n giant miter gauge to sUpPO,'Ltheplywood while cross-cutting it. LO length,Cl'1'-(W~'rro. This same jig served an-

    other role when (cut the legs (01' the Cof-fee Table and the pieces fol' the drawers 6fthe Shop Storage Cabinet, In both cases, Iwanted to cut several pieces to identic,,1length, And I was able to use the panel-cutting jig as a cut-off jig bJr adding amoveable stop block,

    CONSTRUCTION, The basic jig i~ very"allY to make. CUt a piece of II, plywoodfor the base about 16" wide and longenough to extend 12 past the wing of thetable saw,The base is gl!ided with LWO runners.

    The first runner is cue to fit the mitergauge channel. The second runner ismounted to the outside edge of theplywood base so ill'ides sgatnst the ed!,'t!ofthe extension wing, (Some extensionwings have bolts along the edge.s, so you

    ___ S_b_o~NotesSOME TIPS FROM OUR SHOP


    rabbets on the ends Of each rail. makingsure the shoulder-to-shoulder distance be-tween the rabbets is IS", see Fig. 1-

    P[' YWOODrAN .. i.,Now, the frames (railsand stiles) can be dry-clamped togutha, toget measurements for the plywood panels(A). Icut these panels a bare V,." short ofthe groove-to-groove measurements of theframes to allow fo,' glue squeeze-out.

    Next, cut rabbets 011 the i"8'id~raceoiallfow' sides of tbe plywood panels. Thisshould leave:Y'( x%" tongues that fit in thegrooves in the frames. These rabbetsshould be cub so the inside face to theplywood panel is exactly flush with theinside face of the frame, see fig. 2,Finally, the frames and plywood panels

    can be glued and clamped together,

    514 oak. (514 stock is 1y,." thick.) The stiles(G, vertical pieces) are ripped to a width of2' and cut to length to the full height of thecabinet (48").THE RAILS. The rails (H, horizontal

    pieces) are also ripped to a width 0(2" and alength of HW,".

  • IS



    ~~~~~~~;~~~=t~~~~~~~~~~y-..Ll..........,'I.-a ROUTE COUNrtRClOCfCWlSE AROUND TEMPlAtE 2%:::"\\ tAMBOUR

    '\ "t +" nIo-t-GROOve@ ~..~~RPUTER-+- 0 USEv... ROUTER 8n OENTU!CURVE FORTAMBOURescAte+-----1I\

    fIOsmON- I"e I.~TMPLATTE-MPtATE1'1.-" fROM L.-llf."F--RONTEOGe r-'



    'I. CH.AMfER ON AllOUlSIO~

  • !\o,iI



    Once the cabinet's sides are completed, thetop (B). bottom (D) and &WOshelves (C andE) call be cut from the remaining o/.i" oakplywood (see Cutting Diagram on page19), Three or these pieces (the top, cheT.V. shelf, and the bottom) are ripped to awidth of 150/.0".'the second shelf (El i.ripped to a ,,'idtb of 14%', see Fig. 6.Then aU tour pieces are cut to. length of

    2S'Y". [('5 rather impcrtant that all fourpieces be eui to exactly the same length.To do this, Icut them a little long to beginwith and then trimmed them with thepanel cutting jig SbO\\1. on page 13.

    IUllBETS. Next, rabbets aloe cut on allrOUI' pieces in order LO form 0/,' x 'v.,"tcngues, see Fig. Ii,These rabbets are cut01'all foul'E!dgesof'three orthel?ieces (B, Dand C). However. the front edge of thebase 01' the sllding $heU' (E), iij )IQI rab-beted, see ~'ig.8,Shop Note: When cutting rabbets in

    plvwood, you get the cleanest cut with araUI.I', ~Ilt.her than a table saw blad., 1used the router tabltl (shown in l'{ood$>II#hNu. 20) to cut these rabbets,After the rabbets are cut, all foul' pieces

    can be glued and clamped into the groovesin the-side frames.


    The I'$\\' plywood edges ot these fou)'pieces are covered with solid 0111utofoS 'I stock to fit exactly between the cabinetside" rOnly seven pieces IU'e needed be-eause the ti'Ont edge of the "liding ahelfbase is eevered with a simple y., edging.lIip, see Pig. 8,)

    Xext, cut a ""'. x 0/,( groove on the edgeQf each edging strip to Iit On l he tongues Ofthe plywood. see Figs. 7 and 8, Once thesestrips are. cut Ihe;' elm be glued andelamped to the plywoOd tongues.)!OL01:;GSTRII'S, The top and bottom of

    the eabinet also have molded racing strips,see l-'ig. 7. Two of these strips (one on theihmt and one on the back of the top) areused to cover the curve of the tambour.The third molding strip (on the bottom)serves as a kiekboard,To make these strips, lip three boards

    2J1,,'wide and cut them to length to fiebetween the sides. Then cut a SO' beveJ onthe back of the L\\IO strips for the top, seedetail in rig. 8. Next, round over the topoutside corner of nil three pieces with a ,,"COrner round bit, (I did Lhis on the routertable.) And finally. cut a y.,N deep x 0/....wide rabbet opposite the rounded corners.

    , After these sttips are cut, they can beglued to the edglng strips.


    E16" L...:,(.:.======*I-i :~v.STOCKONI'" BACK EDGE

    c- l7'1i



    Df-- t1'~ -I

    WF;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;t! NO AP~ONONU I-f-BACK 'OG' Depending on what you plan to use this

    cabinet for, the sliding shell' may IIOL be

    17V,' "1r-

    1'"" v ~","RA8BET

    J I


    y,' COANeR r-1'''' -.,R~UN~ 77.Z~ "T.' ..-, a0!!.Q~

    I !I........W:-.' .:-:~~. jHELFo

    FIGURE 8 1-, -.J,~. CO$lNtJt I 1 V. - t/".~If ~'.!'RABBET AND GROOVEROUND, '>"/277;""201'7 I '~ "-'~~'. TO~SM."

    f':\.""~" , "-EOGING $lItIP

    """'1" .. !I(~.RABBEt2'h- K "_ MOt1)tNG STRIP~BEVEl EOGE f:Olt tAMBOUR CLfAJiANCE


    T J"'/"'~;.r. T.V.SM",1'1,.' t t~tt-~.~~ CL _-J.. EnGING STRIP

    ~ l'r. -t


    I-~!'I~.'RABBET ON. ...,ACK AND 'twO ENDS



    t_H!!_E PIE~ T()P SHELF,T."'. S~WaOnOM SHElf



    fiGURE 7


    28", .. 2:8

    If I~t-15- I



    AGURE 5

  • 17




    \.. VA~ J)tVWOOO


    '". ,,"'VQC.O---!





    MOlOING Sf$UP Ie

    FIGURE 11

    M .AtlT



    6 c,,! rabbets 01. both edge. of Ike /0.11\'bolt" to lea:V8 I/t-wide by 'Y,,thickttm{Jllesto fit tne I/;",vide gYOOlJ6S.

    3You'll also need a -l{,".lhick ",o"ntingstrip. I cut this from a pi(Jl;eof 511i8crap 10get 1Mfinal ,uidtlt of 11/,,,.

    \SlK130GOOD STRlps


    5Spread tlli:1Lla,YBrof gl1le over back oftambo",. Then lay can"as (qrde:nill~)in pillee atld roll down witl< a rolli1lQpill.



    2 Use a notJ:hed jig to ,tp tJUJ lam/)Qul'strips to a lilickmess oj' ";'". The'l re-Peat [IrOC6$8 untif, yo" have 40 strips.

    CUT on-. $T1UPS

    over the ends of'theetrips. ~J\1akeSUl'" thestrips are square with the hold-downbars.) Then tack the back cleat in place,push the strips tight against this cleat, andtack down the front cleat to bold them _IIin place.

    GLUEONC,,",WAS.Now the canvas back-iugcan be glued to the backs of the strips. Iused a light-weight artist's canvas that'savailable at art stores. However, denim(blue jean material) could also be used.Spread a thin layer of glue (I used Tite-

    bond) across all of the strips. Then lay thecanvas (or denim) over the tambour stripsand press it in place with a veneer roller 0"a rolling pin.Aftet about 1 hour, wry Cf),rejl,lly take

    the tambour out of the jig and "crack" thejoints. [f any glue has seeped through thecracks between the strips, you want tocrack them apart before the glue has achance to harden, As you crack the joint."roU the tambour into a loose cylinder.Stand this cylinder on end and le~ the gluecure overnight.

    RAllS!."!'. Since the strips of this tambourare 0/,. thick, the outside edges of thetambour need to be rabbeted to fit thev.r\\ide greaves in thecabinet. I cut theserabbets on a table SaW, see Fig. 6.Set the height of the blade to leave a

    'Y,"-~ick by VI'-Iong tongue. It's best tokind of sneak up on this cut, testing the fitin the tambour groove until the tambourslides easily (without binding) but doesn'trattle around too much.

    This strip is 'Yo" thick by 1"wide (see r'ig.3). I used the jig again to resaw it off apiece of 514 scrap.

    SllLECTION. After the sL"ips are cut. letthem sit for a day or two until they get allthe warping and twisting out of their S>'.-tern. Then the selection process begins:choose the best of the bunch, avoidingthose that are badly warped or twisted.'CLUING JiC. To hold .11 these strips

    together while gluingQIl the canvas, Iuseda.simplejig, see Fig. 4. This jig is just twoside bars with a %'-deep rabbet on oneedge, and front and back cleats.Lay the mounting strip and the SOtam-

    bour st.ipsface down on a piece of scrapplywood, and tack the rabbeted side bal'$

    4 Use a jig witl, ''(lbbeted side /)QTStohold tlte strips in pUu:s. ll1.oke slIreslrips are positilYl.ed square with bars.







    r-__--..,....'1iI1a1l8ET SAME-'MIOCNfSSHOLD AS Sf AlPSDOWN....R

    1Cut 51/.",.,ide boa-Id. to the finalwngtk of th talltboltr. Then: rot"uiouer /)Qlltedges witka 0/1'comer-TOllnd bU.

    .v. CORNERAOUNO all


    It just, doesn't seem fair that somethi.ng asInyltteMous as a tambour should be so easyto build. 'l'heseeret behind a tambour (roll-top) is a simple piece of canvas. The tam-bour strips are glued to a canvas backingthat's flexible enough to follow tile groovesin the cabinet. That's it. Easy enough, butit does require some work.The tambour I made for the T.V. cabinet

    is kind of a "roll-nod-pleat" design. Eachtambour strip is a "custom-made" half-round molding strip,You need 30 strips in all, but it's best to

    make at least 40 because there's bound tobe some waste. All of these strips are cutfrom 4/4 ('0/,," thick) boards. As shown in~he Cutting Diagram, I used (OUI' 51'?wide boards, cut to length to match thefinal width of the tambour. (This widthshould be 28%', which is ~. less than thedistance between the tambour grooves inthe cabinet.)

    ROIlNDEDGES. I used. router table andtable saw to make the half-round strips.First 1 rounded over both edges of eachboard with a %" comer-round bit (on therouter table), see Fig, 1. Then I used anotched jig to cut off 'Ys'-thickstrips on atable saw, see Fig. 2. (More

  • 19


    C E

    5/4 (1 Vi....) x 5'/,



    Now the banding strips ean be glued andclamped to the edges of the plywood top.

    thick. the grooves shoukl be Illightly olr-center (so t he top face ofthe banding strip,is llush with the top face er the plywood I.

    CGTTHf.GROO"f.S. Mark what will be thetoll face of each handing strip. Then [usedaYo" straight bit on the router table to CUlthe 0/,,' -deep grooves. Set lfte fenceexactly Yo' from the bit (see Fig. 3). anduse a reathel' clamp to force the markedlace of the strip against the fence, see Fig.2. When the groove is cut. it should leave IIv." shoulder 011 the top edge, then the v."groove in the middle, and finally a 0/,0"shoulder on the bottom, see Fig. 5.

    RAIlBt.'T.Each of these pieces .11\0 has a

    tongue and groove joints, refer to Fie, S. I I rabh.:t on th.. outside !lC1~.(This rabbet isfound it was best to cut the grooves in the u..~!at.!r tu mount the table top to thebanding stlips before cutting the ton~'1l'" Il.pTONGUES ON PLYWOOD


  • 21WOODSMITHwith. chamfer bit, sec fill', 9, II ~ACESIDE PDWN


    ~ A \ -,


    -:.:(?1i- iIWI /(!J./; C ./'i~ \ ........J /'


    fiGURE '0



    i.r ,~ DOWN

    Since there's a rabbet.on the outside edgesof all the banding SImps, iL helps to cut asmall filler strip so the clamp contacts afull-thickness edge, see Fig. 7,TRIM CORNERS. Once the glue is dry,

    trim the excess plywood from the openeornees of the top, see Fig. 10, F'inally, thesurface of the table top should be sanded toremove any variation between the bSI\dingstrips and the plywood,




    B aB . I RBIlV,t." II" s'"c,'" 72"


    II..' r-- 4/4 STOOC- t- I


    I bp


    hl--. AGAINST f,ENCE,G


    ftGUItE 6No matter how hard r t,'Y, r find it ve,'ydifficult to get the face of a plywood LOPtomatch porfectly with solid-wood bandingstrips, Even when I'm successful, the .Glidwood st"ip.o;and plywood top will expandand contract at different rates withseasonal changes in humidity - so there'sa1mo.,t aJway~some variation between lhe'w ",,"aces,'T ",,'I around this problem, I cut a smaU

    \'.I!' vc right at thejo;nt Iil)eofthe band-inl! !!tr." .md the 1>lywood,This V-groovemak .. " ".'T difficull tq see (or feel) anyvrui:,tl' n j..[, :h~two surfaces.

    r u,...., i \'-zroeve router bit on therouter \l.bl. '., make these cuts, see Fig. 8, I ~The point .,[ tbc bit should be right on lhe IFscant ~.. "'hf." routil\!l' this V-groove. Ieonunued iL out a! ng the end grain of the ' banding ~trip;;,.


    APAONCMMlFU- r- (!:)

    r- lEG "SQUARE

    -- ,..RGUJlE 16aprons, see Fig. 13. And then round over

    the top outside edge with a Vii' corner-round bit, see Fig. 14.

    ASSEMBLY AND FINISHINGNow the aprons and legs can be glued andclamped tgether. Before tight:.cning thedamps, set the top in place to hold every-thing square.

    AI)DTIlETOP. \Vhen the glue i~dry, thetop can be glued and clamped to theaprons, Since there isn't a good clampingsurface on the top, place a piece of scrapwood across the width of the table top touse as a surface fOl'the Cclamps.

    FllUSU1NG. I applied three coats ofHope's Tung' Oil Varnish to the table topand two coats to the legs. This finish isvery easy to apply and has just enoughvarnish in it to protect the top.






    fiGURE 14

    .L', ~

    MQR1'j5E: ..lOW




    flOU n _L Q ->Va" -:.: 4/4 srOCK VjJr.lj1"'1:c,""'-"--

    ~ , .~ _,.' J 2'.'-/; V/1 _V

    t '" AO';;O ov,~/I. _..~~NIESf "T T'(NON TO MATCI::! MORTISE-t'EN()t,I ON 5TOCIC

    THE lEGSIn order to get blanks big enough for the2"-'l(juare legs, I laminated three pieces of414 stock for each leg. First cut a total of 12pieces to a rough Iength of 1'1"and roughwidth of 2",.". Then glUe three piecestogether to fOl'meach leg.

    When the glue is d~y,lip the legs downto final size of 2" x 2", making two cuts inorder to keep the Joint lines an equal dis-tance from the outside faces ofthe legs, SeeFig. ll.

    MORTISES. The legs are joined to theaprons with mortise and tenon joints. (Seeloods"'ith 1'10. 18 for complete step-by-step instructions on making a mortise andtenon joint.)The mor~ises Oil these legs are cut- 0/,,,.

    noomthe outside edge, and 'YoN down fromthe top edge of tbe leg, see Fig. 11. (Thistop measurement allows enough room forthe top edge of the apron and the tongue ofthe banding strip, re fer to Fig. 16.)I arranged the legs in their final position

    and marked out the mortises so the facegrain of each leg would be on the long sideof the table, and the edge grain (with theglue lines) would beat the ends. Then Icutthe morti$es on a drill press by drilling aseries of holes with a 'Ys" bit.

    CHAMFJ;:R J;:OGES. After the mortiseswere cut. I chamfered all four corners andthe top and bottom edges of the legs on therouter table with a chamfer bit. (See page13 for more on this teehnique.)

    THE APRONSSince the table's top has already beenbuilt, the aprons must be cut to accept thedimensions of the top. Rip the four apronsto a width of 2\4". Then the aprons are cutto length so they're equal to the length ofthe banding strips on the table top, plusenough for the tenons on each end.

    I used the banding strips as a gauge tomark all' the sboulder-to-shoulder lengthof the apr-ons (the distance between theshoulders of the two tenons.) Then t added2" (for the two l"_IOngtenons).

    Wnen cutting the tenons, r set up thesaw to makea test cut on a piece of scrap tomake sure the outside face of the apronmet the chamfered edge of the legs, seeFig. l~. Once the outside face was cut, Imade a cut on the inside (ace to set thethickness of the tenon so it fit sml~ly in themortise. (This, in effect, is cuttillg tworabbets, leaving a tenon to fit the wialh ofthe mortise.)Then the shoulders on the top and bot-

    tom edge of the tenon are CUl to fit theheight or the mortise. Finally, round-overthe come rs of the tenon with a file soit fits therounded ends of the mortises, seeFig. 12.

    ROUT secss, The last step on the apronsis to cbamfer the two bottom edges of the

  • 23wooosscrn

    Rmpn01ul B, WallacePeoria,IUino~

    After reading ~{t'. Wallace's letter, (cheeked all of the planes in our shop to seeif ally had a cast iron Y-yoke. [ did find one:my grand rather's 90yearold wooden[ointer plane. The mere Lhollght of break-ing the Y-yoke, on that particular planemade me "c.ry nervous,Other than this one jointer plane, all the

    other planes in our shop (we have about adozen planes, some of them .'athe~ old),were equipped with a steel Yyoke whichcan be bent without breakage.

    Kelllwlh C. Ha"''>!IVisc01Will.Rctpids, lVisco1lsi'l

    However. I have to agree with Mr.Wallace that a warning should be made.Du."recommendation is that if your planehas either a cast iron Y-yoke, or if you'renot quite sure what type of metal it's madeof, don't try to crowbar the leg.s or theY-yoke with a screwdriver. After all, it's atot bette,' to live with a working plane thathas a slightly sloppy adjustment than tohave one with no adjustment at all.


    In the article on the Manlel Clock (Wood-smith No. 24, page 8), we described amethod of cutting glass to fit the odd shapeorthe clock door, We also mentioned howwe got lucky berOt.. we ran out of glass.\Vell, we spoke too soon. Soon aftru' theissue was sent to the printer.Dave noticeda small problem. The glass had a 6" hair-line fracture running t'ight across the faceor the dial.

    Undaunted, 1set out to try to cut theglass again. Unfortunately, this timel ranout of glass, twice, And in tbe process, 1else ran out of patience, But I was toostubborn to admit, defeat. , , there had tobe a way.

    I finally decided to try a piece of Plexi-glas, just to see how itwould work, And tobe honest, Iwas pleasantly surprised,The nicest thing about using Plexiglas is

    that it can be cut on a band saw, or with asabre saw, just like a piece of plywood,This eliminated having to rely on LadyLuck when it came time to cut the arch,After cutting out the arch in the Plexi-

    glas (on the first try, by the way), 1applieda coat of paste wax to both sides of my"unbreakable glass" to protect it fromscratches, Then I installed it in the doorframe of the clock,To unknowing eyes, it looks exactly like

    I got lucky again.SHIFTY MITERS

    I I"'jed (/1.6 l,ethOOof,u sillg sa.ulpaptl OILfllll 11~iW1'QQllI/e fence to Slap ttu piecesfrom creeping s dt,wiiHId illWoodsmithNo. ~.9.The only ,/'Ohlem I hod ,.'(I.~tha:the grit of the salldpap~ feU off, and.",'Olcked the tOPof my lable saw.

    I'w fowut R1lOt/z"" method. Ihut uorks'""u f01' ?)le. J 8;".pl1/ apply dOllble-Jlu;edlape to tile mite>l.nce, Then t prevent: tltestockfro1>' iHlcomi>(!} overly atLache


    WAU.~ ''''lCKAlBOnOM


    fiGURE 3


    ....... ARST CUT'i." 0iiPii88Ef


    """"L __ ./StCONOCUTA \lit. 'I."~88ET

    "GURE 2~2PCORNiA DEtAtl


    \-0 3)/." j LGlUt"N~ )- r: ...I~- ~ 2'';' ...



    SIDES SUGHJlY - 2" _,~ TA... eo ~ ".,- 1.s- aEvEl\' , ,/i~.~/

    CHAM{ER BonOMsn~GU'E3 cur TWEl ...E SlAves fDGE SUGHflY::':'"

    \r~/ SASe 414 STOCI( -'10'~

    fIGU~E 1

    The pop"'O"nbowl lid has a double rabbetl'llt on the rim. This double rabbet keep.the out$ideedge otthe lid 'I." above the limof the bowl, see Fig. 2. This gap \'isul1llyseparates the vertical grain of the bowlfrom the horizental grain on the lid,After tlje double rabbet is cut 011 the rim.

    I used a round-nosed scraper to form theneck aroun8 the knob.Then Icut a slight hollow on top of the

    knob, and a genlle curve on the main bodyofth.lid, Finally the lid is fini.hed sanded.and separated f1'01lI the faceplate.To finish Ihe popcorn bowl, I used three

    eeats Behlen's Salad Bowl Finish.

    slightly, I used a square-nosedscraper t.taper the walls to 14"thickness at the rim,TlIt: FI.OATINGIJAS&.The (ina! step 0"

    the bowl is to create R "Oo~ting" base, 'rodo thi:!. I simply used a parting teol toundercut the remaining part of the rabbetonthebase. ('rhisislheshaded area in Fij!.:).) The" the bottom corner of the cylinde)'waU is chamfered, and the bowl is finishsanded and removed from the lathe.

    THE liD

    There's really only one major differellcc:between the Ii(l for this popcorn bowl andthe lids used for tile canisters (pag