Woodsmith No. 135moranet.org/ebanisteria/WoodSmith/media/pdf/135.pdf · 2020. 4. 13. · 2...

®

Vol. 23 / No. 135

www.woodsmith.com

Coffee Table • Wall Shelf • Storage Chest • Mitering Jig

Drop-Leaf

Coffee Table

Quick & Easy:Country Wall Shelf

With Optional DoorsStorage Chest You Can

Build in a Weekend

2 Woodsmith No. 135

No. 135 June, 2001

SAWDUST

EDITOR’SCOLUMN

Publisher Donald B. Peschke

Editor Terry J. StrohmanSenior Editor Jon Garbison

Assistant Editor Brian McCallumContrib. Editor Craig Ruegsegger

Art Director Todd LambirthSenior Illustrators David Kreyling

Dirk Ver SteegHarlan V. Clark

Graphic Intern Kara Blessing

CREATIVE RESOURCESCreative Director: Ted Kralicek • Project Developer: KenMunkel • Sr. Project Designer: Kent Welsh • ProjectDesigners: Chris Fitch, Craig Iseke • Shop Craftsmen: SteveCurtis, Steve Johnson • Sr. Photographer: Crayola England

SPECIAL PUBLICATIONSExecutive Editor: Douglas L. Hicks • Art Director: DougFlint • Senior Graphic Designer: Chris Glowacki• Assoc. Editor: Craig Ruegsegger• Assistant Editors: JoelA. Hess, Joseph E. Irwin • Graphic Designer: Vu Nguyen• Graphic Intern: Heather Boots

CIRCULATIONSubscriber Services Director: Sandy Baum • New BusinessManager: Wayde Klingbeil • Promotion Manager: Rick Junkins• Promotion Analyst: Patrick Walsh • Renewal Manager: PaigeRogers • Billing & Collections Manager: Rebecca Cunningham• Circ. Marketing Analyst: Kris Schlemmer • Assoc. Circ.Marketing Analyst: Paula M. DeMatteis • Sr. Graphic Designers:Mark Hayes, Robin Dowdell

CORPORATE SERVICESDirector of Finance: Mary R. Scheve • Controller: RobinHutchinson • Sr. Account.: Laura Thomas • Accts. Payable:Mary J. Schultz • Accts. Receivable: Margo Petrus •Production Dir.: George Chmielarz • Electronic PublishingDirector: Douglas M. Lidster • Network Administrator: CrisSchwanebeck • Pre-press Image Specialists: Troy A. Clark,Minniette Johnson • New Media Mgr.: Gordon C. Gaippe •Web Site Art Dir.: Gene Pedersen • Technology Analyst:Carol Schoeppler • Web Content Mgr.:David Briggs •Professional Development Dir.: Michal Sigel • H.R. Asst.:Kirsten Koele • Office Mgr.: Noelle Carroll • Receptionist:Jeanne Johnson • Mail Room/Delivery: Lou Webber

WOODSMITH MAIL ORDEROperations Director: Bob Baker • Customer Service Mgr.:Jennie Enos • Warehouse Supr.: Nancy Johnson • Buyer:Linda Jones • Tech. Service Rep.: Johnny Audette •Admin. Assist.: Nancy Downey • Cust. Serv. Reps.:Tammy Truckenbrod, Ed Arthur, Anna Cox, DeborahRich, April Revell, Valerie Riley, Linda Stepp • Warehouse:Sylvia Carey, Nancy Connelly, Mary Couch, Dustin Hess,Sheryl Knox, Mike Overby, Al Voigt

WOODSMITH STOREMgr.: Dave Larson • Asst. Manager: Tim Thelen • SalesStaff: Wendell Stone, Jim Barnett, Kathy Smith, Larry Morrison,Harold Cashman, Mark Johnson, Gregory Kauzlarich, JoeKucera • Office Mgr.: Vicki Edwards

Woodsmith® (ISSN 0164-4114) is published bimonthly (Feb., Apr.,June, Aug., Oct., Dec.) by August Home Publishing Company, 2200Grand, Des Moines, IA 50312. Woodsmith® is a registered trademark of August Home Publishing. Copyright© 2001 August Home Publishing Company. All rightsreserved.Subscriptions:Single copy: $4.95. One year subscription (6 issues),$24.95. (Canada/International add $10 per year, U.S. funds.)Periodicals Postage Paid at Des Moines, IA and at additionaloffices. USPS/Perry-Judd’s Heartland Division Automatable Poly.Postmaster: Send change of address to Woodsmith, Box 37112,Boone, IA 50037-2112.Subscription Questions? Write to Woodsmith, P.O. Box 842, DesMoines, IA 50304-9961 or call 1-800-333-5075, 8:00 am to 5:00 pm, CentralTime, weekdays. Or send an e-mail to: [email protected]: [email protected] World Wide Web: http://www.woodsmith.com

Printed in U.S.A.

Visit other Woodsmith subscribers’ workshops, and see photos ofthe projects they’ve built. It’s all online in the new Readers’Gallery on the Woodsmith web site: www.Woodsmith.comWe want you to be part of the Readers’ Gallery! Tosubmit photos of your favorite Woodsmith projectsor views of your shop, follow the instructions you’llfind at the gallery.

ne comment I hear quite often is,“That’s a great-looking project, but

I bet it took a long time to build.” Unfor-tunately for most of us, time — espe-cially shop time — is in short supply.

So for this issue, we’ve come upwith quite a few projects that won’ttake much more than a couple ofweekends to build, though you mightnot know it by looking at them.

PROJECTS. Take the Drop-Leaf CoffeeTable shown on the front cover, forexample. Instead of spending timeturning a set of four legs on the lathe,I purchased the legs already turnedand sanded. To complete them, all Ihad to do was cut a few mortises.

Or how about the Storage Chest onpage 20. It starts out as a basic ply-wood box. Then it’s dressed up withsome pre-made molding.

Finally, the Country Wall Shelf fea-tured on page 14 can be quickly builtusing dimensional lumber. And tomake the shelf back more interesting,we used pre-made beaded board.

Even though these projects can bebuilt quickly, there’s still plenty ofwoodworking involved. For instance,the coffee table provides an opportu-

nity to try your hand at making a drop-leaf or rule joint. The storage chestgives you a chance to work on cuttingmiters and edging plywood. And thecountry wall shelf is put together withrabbet and dado joinery.

With this issue we’ve added somethingnew that I’m excited about. It’s calledOn-line Extras, and it’s going to allow usto expand the amount of woodworkinginformation that we can provide.

For example, if you have a latheand want to make your own set of legsfor the drop-leaf coffee table, thereare dimensioned drawings availablefor you to view or download. Or per-haps, you want to try your hand atbuilding a matching sofa table. Theplans are available — all you have todo is “click.” If you don’t have internetaccess, you can send for the plans,see page 35 for more information.

NEW FACE. Brian McCallum is ournew assistant editor. Brian has spentthe past few years building furniturein New England, so he’s an “old”hand at working around the shop.

O

FeaturesDrop-Leaf Coffee Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

With its turned legs and drop-leaf tabletop, you may be surprisedto find that this project can be built in just a few days. The secret?A simple design and some ready-made legs. (Plus, we’ve included a matching sofa table on page 10.)

Drop-Leaf In Depth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12A drop leaf is a great way to extend a tabletop. And making itisn’t as complicated as you might think. All you need are a coupleof common router bits and a special hinge.

Country Wall Shelf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14To give this wall shelf a country look, we used knotty pine, simpleconstruction, and a beaded-board back. And if you want anattractive display cabinet, there are optional doors you can add tothe shelf. Either way, it’s a quick, easy-to-build project.

Clamping & Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Gluing up a project may be the most nerve-racking part of wood-working. Once the glue is on, you only have minutes to get thingstogether — and get it together right. These tips from our shop willhelp things go smoothly, no matter what the assembly.

Storage Chest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Lift the lid of this chest, and you’ll find plenty of room for storage.What you won’t find is any hint that it’s built from plywood andready-made moldings. Just one trip to the home center will get youeverything that’s needed to build this handsome chest.

DepartmentsTips & Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Shop Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Reader’s Jig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32Talking Shop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34Sources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

A LOOKINSIDE

CONTENTS

Drop-Leaf Coffee Table page 6

Country Wall Shelf page 14

No. 135 Woodsmith 3

Storage Chest page 26

FROM FELLOWWOODWORKERS

TIPS & TECHNIQUES

When cutting delicate trimon my miter saw, it’s oftenthe small “waste” pieces Iwant to keep for makingreturn molding. But fre-quently these small pieceswill get trapped between

the blade and a stop block,and they kick back. Notonly is this dangerous, butmore often than not, I’m los-ing or damaging the pieces.

The solution is as closeas your shop vacuum. Byclamping the nozzle to thefence it acts as a stop formultiple cuts. Then, byturning on the vacuumbefore making a cut, thepieces will be sucked intothe hose, out of the way.

Of course, if you suckthe pieces into the vacu-um, they may get dam-aged tumbling throughthe hose or lost in a canis-ter full of sawdust. To pre-vent this, I took a net bag

(like the kind orangescome in) and inserted itinto the end of the nozzleto catch the pieces.

The bag can be securedwith some rubber bands,but make sure to leaveenough slack in the bag toallow for multiple piecesto fit. (This will depend on

the size and shape of themolding you're cutting.)

I can now make severalcuts before having to stopto retrieve the pieces. Thisis a safer method forcatching the pieces, andit’s a dust collector, too.

Jim VasiWilliamsville, New York

Miter saw

Net bagCutoffs

Vacuum nozzle

Sectionview ofnozzle.

Trapping Small Cutoffs

NOTE: Use shimsto adjust heightof roller for usewith differentmachines.

Roller

Knob

Dowel

Shims

Mainboard

Sawhorse

#8 x !/2"Panheadscrews

FREEOOnnlliinnee TTiippss

If you’d like evenmore woodwork-ing tips, the solu-tion is simple.Just visit us at ourweb site and signup to receive afree tip via emailevery week.www.woodsmith.com

4 Woodsmith No. 135

I was shopping for anadjustable roller stand anddecided I could make myown for less. My rollerstand makes use of a saw-horse, and the only invest-ments you’ll need to makeare a roller and a pair ofwood knobs.

Start by screwing theroller to a piece of wood.Next, I cut a series ofshims in different thick-ness stock, so I can set the

roller at the right heightfor a variety of machines.To connect everything, Idrilled holes at both endsof all the pieces.

Dowels are used to lockthem together. And knobsattached to the ends of thedowels make for easyremoval when the saw-horses are needed else-where in the shop.

Bruce H. BarberAnnandale, Virginia

Adjustable Sawhorse Roller Stand

SUBMIT YOUR TIPS

If you have an original shop tip, wewould like to hear from you and con-sider publishing your tip in one ormore of our publications. Just writedown your tip and mail it to:Woodsmith, Tips and Techniques,2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines,Iowa 50312. Please include your name,address, and daytime phone numberin case we have any questions. If youwould like, FAX it to us at 515-282-6741or send us an email message at: [email protected]. We will pay upto $200 if we publish your tip.

No. 135 Woodsmith 5

QUICK TIPS

Flat File for CurvesWhen using a drum sanderto smooth curved profiles,the sander can’t get to theinside corners. I often usea fine metalworking file toleave a smooth finish. ButI modified the file to prevent the edges from digging into the workpiece.What I did was lightly grinddown the outer edges of thefile. You don’t have to do

much grinding here. Justenough to remove theteeth, as in detail ‘a.’

Note: When grinding,make sure you have abucket of water to coolyour file. Quenching thetool frequently will helpreduce the possibility of itlosing its temper.

Gene AndrewsDothan, Alabama

On a recent project, Iwanted a 30° chamfer onan edge. However, all I hadwas a 45° chamfer bit. Notwanting to buy a new bit forwhat was likely to be a one-time use, I found a way tomake the 45° bit work.

The solution was a 15°wedge for the base of myrouter. To ensure a stablebase, the wedge has to be

wide enough to reach theoutside edges of therouter (see detail). Iremoved the base plateand used it as a templatewhen drilling the mount-ing holes. To ensure aneven chamfer, make sureto keep the wedge parallelto the edge when routing

Michael StaufferTower City, Pennsylvania

Bevels of Another DegreeThe box fan filter idea hasbeen around for years. Myidea is a refinement to thisclassic shop tip. I cameacross some vinyl siding J-channel at my local homecenter. Its normal use is fortrimming around doors andwindows. I found it couldbe used for mounting fur-nace filters to box fans.

I attached the channelto three edges of the inletside of the fan by firstremoving the plastic grill.Then using narrow woodbacking stips, I screwedthe channel to the backingstrips, with the grill sandwiched in between.Finally, replace the grillback on the fan.

The advantage to thisdesign is that it firmly

holds the 20" x 20" fur-nace filter, yet it allows foreasy and quick removal ofthe filter for cleaning orreplacement.

These filters work greaton a hot summer day. Youcan clean your shop air aswell as keep cool.

Phil GiordanoSterling, Virginia

Clear the Air

CONTACT CEMENT SMEARSWhen I use contact cement, it seemslike there is always a drip where I didnot want one or excess cement alongthe edge of a laminate top. Trying torub these off by hand was making myfingers raw, but using a tool to scrapeit off risked scratching the top.

An easier way is to use the abrasivecleaner stick for my belt sander. Afterthe adhesive has had a chance to dry,rub off the unwanted cement withoutdamaging any surfaces.

David HumphreyCannelton, Indiana

GET A GRIPWith my mild arthritis, getting a goodgrip on my “F-clamps” can be a pain.By using thin rubber bicycle innertubes, you can get a better grip onthose smooth clamp handles.

Cut the tube to the length needed,and with some WD-40 for lubrication,slide the tube over the handle. TheWD-40 will dry in a short time, leavingthe rubber securely in place. Therubber-covered handles require lesseffort to grip and tighten.

Dave ZakenBerkeley Springs, West Virginia

Use filewith groundedges facing up

15° wedge

45° chamfer bit

30°bevel

Before After

b.

Ground filegets into tightcorners easilywithout marringadjacent surface

a.

Wedge extendsbeyond router base

a.

Standard vinyl J-channel is available at most

} home centers.

6 Woodsmith No. 135

FEATUREPROJECT

DROP-LEAF COFFEE TABLEHomework, board games, casual dinners — there are times whena coffee table has to hold a lot more than just a cup of coffee.

dding drop leaves to a coffee tablegives you the best of both worlds.

With the leaves down, the table issmall, so it won’t take up too muchspace. And when you need a largertable, you can nearly double the sizeof the top by quickly lifting the leavesand pulling out the supports, asshown in the inset photo at right.

Drop leaves are more than just apractical solution — they’re alsointeresting to build. The profiles arecreated with two common routerbits. And the key to a smooth fit isgetting the drop-leaf hinges posi-tioned correctly. But don’t worry, itisn’t hard to end up with a smoothfit. Everything here has been kept

as basic as possible. So if you’venever built a drop-leaf table before,then this is a great project to learnwith. There’s even a step-by-steparticle about the drop-leaf joint thatstarts on page 12.

There’s another reason why thisproject is a great one for learning tomake a drop-leaf joint — the table isso simple. For instance, I purchasedthe pine legs already turned. Theonly thing left to do to them was cutthe mortises. And the rest of thebase isn’t any more difficult. To con-nect the legs, there are just four railsto make, each with a small piece ofbead molding, as you can see in theexploded view on the next page.

The turned legs made this such aquick project that we came up withan interesting modification. With afew dimension changes (and longerlegs), you can easily build a sofatable that matches the coffee table.(To see this table, turn to page 10.)

{ Each leaf is kept level with a singlesupport piece. A notched profilecreates a handy finger grip.

A

No. 135 Woodsmith 7

NOTE: For more on makinga drop-leaf (rule)joint, see page 12

LEAF

LEAFSUPPORT

END RAIL& BEAD

SIDEBEAD

TOP

Legs and railsjoined with mortise

and tenon joints

Groove forZ-shaped tabletop

fasteners

Supports havefinger pull profile

cut on endsNotch cut

for drop-leafhinge

clearance

3 "-square turnedlegs purchased frommail order source,

see page 8

!/4

NOTE: For sofa tableversion of this project,see page 10

SIDE SECTION VIEW

Dimensionsfor turning your

own legs areavailable, see

page 35

Drop leafjoint requires" cove bit and" round-over

bit

!/2!/2

1x6 - 8' No. 2 Ponderosa Pine




FF B

FF B

GG H

C CGG

E

D

CUTTING DIAGRAM

OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 36”L x 21!/4”W x 16”H (Leaves Down)36”L x 36”W x 16”H (Leaves Up)

If you want toturn your ownlegs for this

coffee table, you can down-load dimensioned drawingsfrom our website. Also thereare shop drawings of the sofatable, as shown on page 10.

MATERIALSA Legs (4)* 3!/4 x 3!/4 - 15!/4B End Rails (2) #/4 x 3!/8 - 14!/2C Side Rails (2) #/4 x 3!/8 - 29!/2D End Bead (2) #/8 x 1 - 12!/2E Side Bead (2) #/8 x 1 - 27!/2F Top (1) #/4 x 21 - 36G Leaves (2) #/4 x 8 - 36H Leaf Supports (2) #/4 x 1%/8 - 18!/4

SUPPLIES• (8) Z-shaped Fasteners w/Screws• (2 pr.) Drop-leaf Hinges w/Screws• (2) #8 x 1!/4" Rh Woodscrews• (2) #8 Flat Washers * Note: See page 35 for sources of turned legs or for more information on turning your own legs

8 Woodsmith No. 135

!/4"-dia.Forstner bit

NOTE: Mortisesdrilled 1 deep!/1 6"

LEGA

%/8"

!/4"

!/2"

2!/8"

2

TOP VIEW

Clearance notchesfor drop-leaf hinges

Side rail notchesend up offset

Trimmedcorner

%/8"

1 "!/2

1#/4"

12 "!/2

27 "!/2

a.

Cleanand square

mortise endswith chisel

a.

Getting ready to build this coffee tablewas a bit unusual. Typically, I startwith a stack of boards that have to besorted through. But having pur-chased the legs already turned (seethe box below), I already had fourpieces sitting on my bench that lookednearly complete. They had even beenfinish sanded (though there’s still a lit-tle work to do on them).

That’s not to say you can’t turnthese legs yourself. All you’ll needare some 31/4"-square blanks. As forthe dimensions, you can find adetailed drawing of the leg profile

on our website. (For more details onthis and for a couple sources ofturned legs, take a look at page 35.)

LEGS. Because the legs (A) werealready turned, the only work left todo was cut a few mortises. As youcan see in Fig. 1 above, one cornerof each leg has been relieved toallow for some bracket hardwarethat’s often used to assemble a table.This hardware won’t work with thiscoffee table design. (I wanted theaprons set closer to the outsidefaces of the legs.) But you’ll want tolay out the mortises so this trimmedcorner ends up as the inside corner.

After the mortises have been laidout, they can be roughed out on thedrill press, as shown in Fig. 2. I liketo use a Forstner bit here because itallows you to drill overlapping holes.This way, even though the walls and

ends of the mortise will still need tobe cleaned up with a chisel (Fig. 2a),it’ll take a lot less time.

RAILS. Now that the legs are com-plete, it’s time to work on the shortend rails (B) and the longer siderails (C), as shown in Fig. 1.

After cutting these pieces to size,the first thing to do is create thetenons that fit with the mortises onthe legs. Here, you can use a tenon-ing jig if you have one. I like to laythe pieces down on the table sawand push them over a dado blade,using the rip fence as a stop (Fig. 3).Note that after cutting the cheeks ofthe tenon (Fig. 3a), you’ll need toraise the blade to cut the shouldersat the top and bottom (Fig. 3b).

NOTCHES. With the tenons cut, theshorter end rails can be set asidewhile you cut two different sets of

1

C

E

ENDRAIL

Notch forleaf support

NOTE:Bead cut

from -thick,oversized blanks

#/8"

B

B

D

D

ENDBEAD

SIDERAIL

SIDEBEAD

Notch for thedrop-leaf hinge

Groove for Z-shapedtabletop fasteners

NOTE: Dimensions forturning legs are

available, see page 35

14 "!/2

27 "!/2

3 "!/829 "!/2

LEGA

12 "!/2

Base

MAIL-ORDER LEGS

Even though the legs on this project areturned, you don’t need a lathe to build it —I purchased the legs from a mail-ordersource. (See page 35.) Mine happened tobe 151/4"-long, “butcher-block” style, pinelegs. But with the variety of woods, stylesand sizes available, you can easily modifythe table in any number of ways. (For oneexample of this, see page 10.)

7

ENDBEAD

Cut beadto fit

betweenlegs

E D

Clamp beadflush with insideedge of rail

E

D

SIDEBEAD

No. 135 Woodsmith 9

notches in the top edges of the twoside rails, as illustrated in Fig. 4.

The first set of notches is cut nearthe center of the rail and creates theopenings that the leaf supports willslide through, refer to Fig. 9 on page11. These notches will end up offset(Fig. 1a), but you can notch bothrails at the same time, as indicatedin Fig. 4. After laying out the posi-tion of the notches on one rail, setthem both together and remove thewaste in a series of passes over adado blade, using the rip fence toposition the pieces.

There are two more notches tocut near the ends of each side rail.These create clearance for the drop-leaf hinges later. The nice thing is,you’ll be able to use the same basicprocedure. Just lower the blade andreposition the rip fence (Fig. 4).

GROOVES & ASSEMBLY. Before assem-bling the base, you’ll need to cutgrooves for the table-top fasteners inthe four rails (Fig. 5). But since thegrooves have to be cut on the insidefaces of the rails, the long side railsfirst need to be oriented so the cen-ter notches are offset from eachother, as indicated in Fig. 1a. Thenafter the grooves have been cut, youcan glue the legs and rails together.

BEAD. To complete the base, allthat’s left is to add 3/8"-thick beadmolding to the bottom of each rail.

To make the end bead (D) and sidebead (E) safely, I started with 21/2"-wide blanks, rounding over bothedges at the router table, as shownin Fig. 6. Then the molding can beripped to width (1") so it’ll stand

proud of the rails (Fig. 7a). Butwhen attaching the bead to thebase, go easy on the glue and besure to clean it up carefully.Otherwise, you may end up with alight spot after the stain is applied.

RAILB C

Dadoblade

Aux. fence

3END VIEW

B C!/4"

1"

a.ENDVIEW

B C

!/2"

1"

b.

NOTE: Cut grooveon inside faces

of all rails

5END VIEW

B C#/8" !/8"

!/4"

a.

E

Waste

Blank forbead

D

#/16" round-over bit

6END VIEW

Blank forbead

#/16" round-over bit

#/8"

WasteFence

1"

a. SECTION VIEW

BEADED

Insideedgesflush

a.

SIDE RAILC

NOTE: One rail will beflipped to offset centernotches, refer to Fig. 1a

Dadoblade

Hingenotch

Hingenotch

Leaf supportnotch ge

tch

4

SIDE RAIL%/8"

C1 "!/2

#/4"

1#/4"

!/16"

END VIEW

13 "#/4

a.

Now that the base is complete, youcan begin work on the top. Unlikemany tables, there’s more to this topthan just gluing up a large panel. Butyou’ll find that adding the two leavesisn’t all that difficult.

GLUE UP PANELS. The first thing to dois glue up panels for the top (F) andleaves (G). The final dimensions arelisted in Fig. 8 above. But let mepass on a couple tips that might saveyou some headaches.

First, when selecting and arrang-ing the individual boards, work onall three panels at the same time,setting them side by side. This way,

you can make sure the grain patternon the leaves matches the top.

Also, with the top panel so wide, itwill be easier to keep the facesaligned if it’s tackled in steps. Thisway, you only have to clamp up twoboards at a time. To do this, firstglue up two 11"-wide panels. Thenwhen these panels are flat, you canglue them together to make thewide top panel. (If a pair of boardsjust won’t “cooperate,” you mightwant to use biscuits or splines tohelp keep the faces aligned.)

One more thing. As you’re sand-ing or planing the top and leaves,

make sure their edges end up thesame thickness. It’ll pay off whenit’s time to make the drop-leaf joint.

When the top and leaves aresmooth, they can be cut to final size(Fig. 8). Ripping the pieces to widthis no problem. But when crosscut-ting, you’ll want to add a long auxil-iary fence to the miter gauge or, bet-ter yet, use a crosscutting sled.

ROUND CORNERS. Before making thedrop-leaf joint, the outside cornersof the leaves need to be rounded, asshown in Fig. 8. I cut each 1" radiuswith a band saw and then sandedthe curves smooth.

10 Woodsmith No. 135

SOFA TABLE OPTION

Since purchased legs are available ina variety of woods, styles, and sizes,this project can be quickly modified.This matching sofa table is just oneexample of this — and it’s even eas-ier to build than the coffee table.

Most of the modifications hereare fairly obvious. The table has dif-ferent proportions. (It’s taller, nar-rower, and longer.) And there aren’tany drop leaves because the table istoo narrow for the supports. Theone change you might miss is thatthe rails are slightly wider.

10 "!/2

27"

17"

NOTE: Detailedshop drawingsand sources forsofa table legsare available,see page 35

55"

42 "(44 with

tenons)

!/2!/2"

NOTE: All railsare 4 " widewithout bead

!/4

Top, Leaves, & Supports

LEAFG

LEAFG

!/2" roundoveron all four edges

!/2"round-over onthree

outsideedges

1" radiusat corners

NOTE:For step-by-step

instructionson drop-leaf joint,

see page 12

!/2"cove

TOPF

1" radius

8"

21"

36"

SECTION VIEW

Pocketfor

hingeknuckleNotch

for hingeclearance

a.BOTTOM VIEW

CL

Pocket forhinge knuckle

!/2"

#/8"

TOP(Bottom Face)

F

5"1 "!/4

b.

8The profiles of a drop-leaf joint can be createdquickly withtwo commonrouter bits: a1/2" roundover

} and a 1/2" cove.

Detailed drawingsof the sofa table(including the legprofile) can bedownloaded fromour website. Formore information,see page 35.

DROP-LEAF JOINT. At this point, theleaves can be attached to the topwith a drop-leaf joint. There are twosteps to this. First the profiles arerouted. Then a pocket is cut for theknuckle of the drop-leaf hinge (Fig.8a and 8b). But I’ll go through thisprocess step-by-step on page 12.

ATTACH TOP. When the leavesare hinged to the top panel, thetop can be attached to the base ofthe table with some Z-shaped fasten-ers, as you can see in Fig. 9. This isdone with the assembly upsidedown, which makes it easy to keepthe base centered on the top panel.

SUPPORTS. To hold up the leaves ofthe table, I added two leaf supports(H), as shown in Fig. 9. These slidein and out of the base through thenotches in the side rails. So the firstthing I did was create a “finger pull”profile on one end of each (Fig. 10).

SLOT. Next, to allow the supportsto slide, you’ll need to cut a slot ineach. I did this at the router table,using a 1/4"-dia. straight bit. Simplydraw a couple of layout lines on thefence, as shown in Fig. 11. Then linethe piece up with the first layout lineand carefully lower it onto the spin-ning bit. Push the piece to the nextline and turn off the router. Keep inmind that it’s safest to cut the slot inmultiple passes, never removingmore than 1/4" with each pass.

Now the leaf supports can beattached to the top panel. I did thisby sliding them in place and making

sure they were square to the base.Then the supports can be securedwith a single roundhead screw (anda washer). Finally before adding thefinish (see box below), it’s a goodidea to make sure each support is

doing its job. To do this, just lift theleaf and extend the support. If theleaves of the table sag, you’ll want toadd a small wedge to the undersideof each leaf. But I’ll cover that inmore detail on page 21. W

LEAFSUPPORT

H

NOTE:Screws centeredin base opening

Drop-leafhinge

(See page 12)

Finger pullprofile

#8 x 1Rh screw

with washer

!/4"

Z-shapedfastener

18 "!/4

1 "%/8

9

G

F

BOTTOMVIEW

TOP

LEAF

1"

1"

c.

F

SECTION VIEW

#8 x 1Rh screw

!/4"

#/4"H

b.

H

SECOND:Drillholes

FIRST: Roundcorners

THIRD:Cut waste andsand smooth

SUPPORT

10

H

%/8" #/8"

!/4"radius

Fingerpullprofile

!/8"radius

%/16"

1%/8"

a.

LEAFSUPPORT

H

2!/4"6!/2"

NOTE: Rout slotin multiple passes

Layoutlines

11

!/4"LEAF SUPPORT H

2!/4" 6!/2 "

a.

FINISHING PINE

F

SECTION VIEW

TOP

Z-shapedfastener

#8 xRh screw

%/8"

a.

{ To fill the voids around a knot, an “instant” glue settles betterthan epoxy. When it’s dry, simply sand away any excess.

No. 135 Woodsmith 11

The coffee table and country wallshelf (page 14) are finished with theexact same “recipe.” (GeneralFinishes’ Honey Maple for the stainand Hope’s tung oil varnish for thetop coat.) It’s not complicated, but fin-ishing pine does have its problems.

KNOTS. If there are any knots in thepine, it’s a good idea to fill the voidswith super glue so the knots won’tfall out as they dry. (See photo.)

STAINING. Also, to get an even colorwhen staining, I first apply a coat ofwood conditioner (like Minwax).

ou already know the idea behind adrop-leaf table. Most of the time,

the leaves hang at the sides of thetable. Then when you need a largertabletop, it’s a simple matter to lift theleaves and extend the supports.

But for me, how a drop-leaf joint(or rule joint) works is more inter-esting than what it does. The joint

combines two matching pro-files: a roundover on thetabletop and a cove on theleaf. When the leaf is raised,its cove wraps around andrests on the tabletop’sroundover. This way, theweight is distributed evenlyalong the entire edge of thetop — not just on the hinges.

To create these two pro-files, you’ll need a pair ofrouter bits. And even thoughmatching sets are available,there’s nothing special about

these bits. If you have a 1/2" round-over bit and a 1/2" cove bit, then theonly thing to buy are some inexpen-sive drop-leaf hinges, as shown inthe upper margin photo on page 13.

Now, if you’re wondering whatthe “catch” is, you can relax.There aren’t any surprises withthis drop-leaf joint. There’s no dif-ficult handwork or even a jig tobuild. It’s a straightforward proce-dure, involving only a few steps.

The first step is to get your table-top and leaves glued up and ready.Then the profiles can be routed onthe panels. And the last step is to

attach the leaves to the tabletop with the drop-leaf hinges.

PREPARE PANELS. There really isn’tanything out of the ordinary aboutpreparing the top and leaf panels fora drop-leaf joint. But there are a cou-ple pointers that will ensure yourtabletop looks good.

First, when choosing the boardsfor the panels, it helps to think of thetabletop as a single panel — notthree separate pieces. This way,when the leaves are raised to extendthe tabletop, the grain pattern willbe consistent across the panels.

The other thing to mention is thatall the panels have to be the samethickness. The hinges are going tokeep the bottom faces of the panelsflush. So if the thicknesses are dif-ferent, you’ll end up with a notice-able shoulder on top of the table.

ROUT PROFILES. Once the panels areready, the profiles can be routedaround the edges. You can do thiseither with a hand-held router or atthe router table. The top of the cof-fee table (page 6) was small enoughthat I did this at the router table.

Y


WOODWORKINGTECHNIQUE

DROP LEAF IN DEPTHFunctional, elegant, and easy-to-build — a drop-leaf joint is all three.

{ A drop-leaf joint uses twocommon profiles to createa strong table extension.

NOTE:Make sure grainand color areconsistent acrossall three panels

Roundoverrouted onall edges oftop and out-side edgesof leaves

Panels mustbe samethicknessat jointline

Cove profilerouted oninside edgesof leaves

ENDVIEW

!/8"

!/2" round-over bit

a.ENDVIEW

!/8"

!/2" covebit

b.

1

When routing the profiles, you’llwant to start with the roundover, asshown in Fig. 1a. It’s routed on allfour edges of the top and on thethree outside edges of the leaves.And at this point, there’s nothingcritical about the setup. Just set thebit to leave a 1/8" shoulder.

The next step is to rout the coveon the inside edge of each leaf panel(Fig. 1b). There’s really nothingtricky about this either. But you dowant to set up the height of the bitcarefully. I used a scrap piece forthis and checked its fit by settingthe cove against the roundover onthe table. Adjust the setup until thetwo profiles match perfectly. Thenrout the cove on each leaf.

ATTACH LEAVES. Now that the pro-files have been routed, it’s time toattach the leaves with the hinges.The shorter half of a drop-leaf hingeis screwed to the top panel (Fig. 3a).But first, you’ll need to create shal-low pockets to hold the knuckles ofthe hinges (Figs. 2 and 2a).

In positioning the hinge, there’senough geometry to make yourhead spin. But you don’t need toknow it to build a smooth-fittingdrop-leaf joint. The key is to makesure the knuckle lines up with theshoulder of the roundover, as indi-cated in Fig. 2a. Of course, measur-ing across a roundover is a littletricky, but you can get an accuratemeasurement by butting the panelagainst a fence and then measuringfrom the fence to the shoulder.

This dimension is the centerlinefor the hinge knuckle (Fig. 2b). Andfrom it, you can lay out the pocket.But don’t worry about getting a

tight fit. You want to be able to shiftthe hinge a little when attaching it.

Since this 3/8"-wide pocket is shortand shallow, I routed it freehandwith a 1/4"-dia. straight bit set 1/4"deep, as shown in Fig. 2. Then it canbe cleaned up with a chisel. Butagain, don’t get too fussy about this.

MOUNT HINGES. With all four pock-ets cut, the leaves are ready to beattached (Fig. 3). Since the pocketsin the top panel position the hinges,you’ll want to start here. Just makesure that each hinge is square to theedge of the table and that the centerof the knuckle lines up with the cen-terline you laid out for the pocket.

Now it’s time to attach the leaf. Iclamped it lightly to the top panel soI wouldn’t have to hold it while add-ing the screws. But instead of trying

for a tight fit, I built in a slight gap byslipping a thin spacer (an ordinaryplaying card) between the table andleaf, as shown in Fig. 3.

When screwing the hinge to theleaf, it’s best to put only one screw ineach hinge to begin with. This way,you can see how well the leaf pivots.It shouldn’t bind or rub at all. But ifit does, you can get it to pivot freelyby loosening the screws and using aslightly thicker spacer or sandingthe roundover. Then you can addthe remaining screws.

At this point, the top can beattached to the base. But here Ishould mention one morething. Since the hingeshave been surface mount-ed, the aprons in the basewill need shallow notchesfor clearance, as shown inthe photo below. W

Playingcard spacer

Put one screwin leaf hinge,then test joint

3


Routerwith "-dia.straight bit

!/45"

NOTE:Pockets routedfreehand, thencleaned with

chisel

2

SECTION VIEW

Jointshouldmove

withoutbindingNotch

for hingeclearance

a.

SECTION VIEW

Drop-leafhinge

Hinge knuckleshould align

with shoulderof profile

a.

#/8"

!/2"


CL

1 "!/4b. { Drop-leaf hinges

have one leaf that’sslightly longer thanthe other. Thisgives the leaf pan-els on the tableenough clearancewhen being raisedand lowered.

When the top is addedto the base, the leaves

fit into shallow notchescut into the aprons. >



COUNTRY WALL SHELFYou decide how you

want it to look.We’ll show you how

to build it.

WEEKENDPROJECT

uilding this project won’t be a prob-lem. All you’ll need is a weekend,

a few boards, and a handful of hard-ware. The trick may be deciding howto build it. That’s because with a fewsimple modifications, you can reallychange the look of the project.

The wall shelf here has a countryfeel to it because it was built withknotty pine and has beaded-boardslats for the back. But this projectwould look just as good built out ofmaple or cherry with a plywoodpanel for the back. Another optionwould be to put a coat or two of painton it instead of the stain and top coatwe used (see page 11).

Or if you’d like more of a displaycabinet than a decorative shelf, thenall you need to do is add a couple ofdoors to the front, as shown in theinset photo at left. This will increasethe overall building time a little. Butthese doors will really “dress up”the appearance of the project. Andsince they’re just basic frames with

By adding a pair of doors, youcan transform this decorative wallshelf into a display cabinet. Plans

for the doors begin on page 18.

>

MATERIALS, SUPPLIES & CUTTING DIAGRAM

A Sides (2) #/4 x 7!/2 - 31%/8B Filler Strips (2) #/8 x #/8 - 4#/4

C Btm. Shelf (1) #/4 x 7!/8 - 25!/4D Adj. Shelves (2) #/4 x 7 - 24!/4

E Back Rail (1) #/4 x 2!/2 - 25!/4F Top (1) #/4 x 9!/2 - 27!/2G Cap (1) #/4 x 10!/4 - 29#/4H Front Rail (1) #/4 x 1!/2 - 24!/2

• (2) Keyhole Hangers w/Screws• (8) Spoon-style Shelf Supports• (1 pkg.) Beaded Board• (24) #4 x !/2" Fh Woodscrews• (4) #8 x 1!/2" Fh Woodscrews

B

H


1x6 - 8' No. 2 Ponderosa Pine (Two Boards Needed)


A A

A

D DC

FG

E

B


glass panels, there’s nothing compli-cated about them. (Plans for thesedoors begin on page 18.)

SIDESRegardless of how you build thisshelf, it’s best to start with thesides (A), as shown in Fig. 1. At71/2" wide, I thought it best to glueup these pieces (as well as all theother pieces over 6" wide). Sure,this takes a little more time, butit helps minimize any cupping.

After cutting these pieces tofinished size, the first thing I didwas cut the dado for the bottomshelf that connects the two sidesat the bottom (Fig. 2). You canset your dado blade to the exactthickness of the stock as I did, oryou can make it a bit smaller andsneak up on the final width of thedadoes in multiple passes.

With the dadoes cut, the nextthing to do is rabbet the sides for theback slats (Fig. 3). What you want toend up with is a stopped rabbet. ButI began by rabbeting the entire backedge of the sides and then added asmall filler strip (B) at the bottom ofeach. (These should end up flush withthe bottom of the dado, as in Fig. 1b.)

CURVED PROFILE. Next, I worked onthe curved profile at the bottom ofeach side piece. Laying out thesecurves isn’t difficult. A 31/2"-radiustemplate will take care of both partsof the curve, as you can see in Fig. 4.

Once the curve is laid out, the pro-file can be cut with a band saw (orsabre saw). When making the cut, Ilike to stay on the waste side and thensand up to the line with a drum sander(Fig. 5). This way, I end up with asmooth curve and no ridges.

Now all that’s left is to drill a fewholes for the two adjustable shelves(Fig. 1a). You could make a quicktemplate for this. Or simply lay outand drill each hole individually.

You probably haven’t thoughtmuch about the doors yet, but if youplan to add them to the shelf, nowwould be a good time to cut the mor-tises for the hinges, as shown below.

3 "!/45"

3"

Lay outfirst arc

3 -radiustemplate!/2"

4

Drumsander

Sandto line

Cleancorner withsandpaper

or file

Dado forbottom shelf

Aux.fence

SIDEA

#/4"dado blade

A

SIDE

Aux.fence

Dadoblade

5

15!/4"2"

2"

6!/2"

-dia.shelf pin

holes,deep

!/4"

#/8"

7!/2"

5!/8"1"

2"

2"

#/8"

SIDE VIEW

SIDEA

a.

FILLER STRIP 3radius

!/2"

SIDEVIEW

#/8" #/8x "rabbet

#/4"#/8

dado," deep

Waste

( x ")#/8" #/8B

SIDEA

#/8"

#/8"

END VIEWa.

HINGE MORTISES

SIDEA

Mortisefor hinge

Auxiliaryfence

If you’re addingthe two doors,the hinge mor-tises can be cutnow. These aresized to matchthe thickness ofthe hinge barrel.

#/8"

#/4"

A

END VIEWa.

B

FILLERSTRIP

NOTE: Cut mortisesfor hinges only ifadding doors,see page 18 formortise locations

IDEA

SIDEA

Curvedprofile

Mortise forhinge

NOTE: Shelf andback rail added later,see page 16

#/4"

4#/4"

31%/8"

7!/2"

,

1

b.

2 3

Shelves & Back RailWith the side pieces complete, it’stime to add the shelves and back rail,as shown in Fig. 6. The bottom shelfand the rail are the two pieceshere that actually connect thesides. (The other two shelvesare adjustable.)

SHELVES. Like the sides, Iglued up the bottom shelf(C) and adjustable shelves(D) from two pieces (Fig.6). The bottom piece can becut to size right away, butit’s better to size the adjust-able shelves after the otherpieces are assembled.

BACK RAIL. Since there isn’tanything more to do withthe bottom shelf, I movedon to the back rail (E) next.This narrow piece at the top,back corner of the sides willhold the keyhole hangersthat I used when it was time tomount the project on the wall.

The back rail will fit into the rab-bets in the back of the sides. (It’s thesame length as the bottom shelf.)But before the piece will fit, you’llneed to create some tongues. Thisis done by cutting rabbets acrossthe ends of the rail (Fig. 7).

The back rail will also help holdthe beaded-board back slats later.Again, all you need to do is cutanother rabbet — this time alongthe back, bottom edge (Fig. 8).

Before assembling the shelf, Idecided to get the back rail readyfor the keyhole hangers. Often forthese hangers, I have to cut steppedmortises. Not this time. All you’llneed to do is cut a dado and drillaccess holes for each. But I’lldescribe this process on page 20.

ASSEMBLY. With the back rail com-plete, the shelf is ready to be assem-bled. I started by gluing the bottomshelf between the two sides. Thenadding the back rail flush with thetop. Since the rail holds the sides

only at the back, you may want tocut a temporary spacer to fitbetween the sides at the front.

ADJUSTABLE SHELVES. When the glueis dry, you can cut the adjustableshelves to fit. There’s no need for atight fit here. I allowed for an 1/8" gapat the ends and ripped the shelf towidth so it would set back 1/8" fromthe front edge, as shown in Fig. 6b.

TOP & BACKNow that the assembly is complete,the top and back of the shelf can beadded. I started with the top so thestaining and finishing could be com-pleted before adding the back.

TOP & CAP. As you can see in Fig. 9above right, there are actually threelayers at the top of the shelf: a toppanel, a cap panel, plus a narrow railthat’s glued under the top. After glu-ing up two blanks, I began by cut-ting the top (F) and cap (G) to size.

Both the top and cap have a pro-file routed along the front edge andboth ends. In each case, I used therouter table to create the profile,pushing the workpiece with asquare block to back up the cut (sothere’s no chipout).

The top gets a cove profile that’srouted with a 1/2" cove bit (Fig. 9a).The cap gets what I call a bullnose


Aux.fence

EAuxiliary

fence

Dadoblade

BACK RAIL

7

E

BACK RAILAuxiliary

fence

Insideface

Dado blade

8

SHELF

SIDE SECTION

BOTTOMSHELF

C

D

NOTE: Adj. shelvesset back " from

front edge!/8

#/8"

END VIEW

#/8"E

#/8"

E

BACKRAIL

Aux.fence

a.

#/8"

!/2"

END VIEW

EBACK RAIL

a.

Keyholehanger

Dado forkeyholehangers, seepage 20

SIDE SECTION

BACKRAIL

E

Rabbet forback panel

SIDEA

S

BOTTOM SHELF

NOTE: For more onkeyhole hangers,see page 20

Keyholehanger

C

SHELF

Spoon-styleshelf pins

#8 xFh woodscrew

%/8"

#/4"

#/4"

2 "!/2

BACK RAILE

25!/4"

24 "!/4

25!/4"

D

7 "!/8

7"

D

a.

b.

6


profile, but you don’t need a “bull-nose” bit. To create the profile, I usea 1/2"-rad. round-over bit raised 3/8"above the table (Fig. 9b).

ASSEMBLY. At this point, the topand cap pieces can be attached tothe shelf. Both pieces are flushwith the back and are centeredside-to-side. However, the topis screwed to the sides of theshelf (Fig. 9d), while the cap is sim-ply glued in place.

FRONT RAIL. While the glue on thecap was drying, I cut a front rail(H) to fit between the shelf sides(Fig. 9). This piece is glued to thebottom face of the top and, if you’readding the doors, it will serve as thestop. So if you do intend to build thedoors, it’d be easier to add the mag-netic catches to this rail before glu-ing it in place, see box below.

FINISH. Before installing the bead-ed boards at the back, it’s a goodidea to add a finish to the shelf. (Ifyou’re building the doors, theyshould be completed first.) I usedthe same finish that’s on the drop-leaf coffee table. And there’s moreabout this in the box on page 11.

BACK. To complete the shelf, allthat’s left to do is add the back, as inFig. 10. If you want to use beadedboards as I did, there are a coupleproducts to choose from: solid pineor primed MDF, as shown in the

margin photo at right. If you plan onstaining the back, you’ll want to usethe pine slats. But if you plan onpainting the beaded boards anyway,the primed MDF will save you somework. (See page 35 for more.)

Regardless of the material youchoose, the procedure will be the

same. I like the spacing of the beadsto end up the same at each side. So Istart with the center slat, lining upone of its beads with the center ofthe shelf. Then I work out towardsthe edges. Usually, the last piece oneach end will need to be trimmedbefore you can screw it in place.

{ Beaded-board slatsare available insolid pine orprimed MDF,depending on thetype of finish youplan to use on theshelf back.

cove bit!/2"

Backerboard

!/4"

ENDVIEW

F

round-over bit!/2"

Backerboard

#/8"

ENDVIEW

G

GFRONT SECTION

1 "!/8

1 "!/8

#8 x 1Fh wood-

screw

!/2"

F

MAGNETIC CATCHES

FRONTRAIL

F

1"1"

Centermagnetic catches on

thickness of stock

holes for

If you are planning to add thedoors to the wall shelf, it’s agood idea to install the twomagnetic catches in the frontrail before this rail is glued tothe top (Fig. 9 above).

First board iscentered on back.

Beadedboard

NOTE: Forsources of

beaded board,see page 35

Trim offwaste

Trim offwaste

NOTE:Beadedboards

attachedwith #4

screws, seedetail 'a'

#4 xFh wood-

screw

!/2"

a.10

SIDESECTION

#/8"beadedboard #4 x

Fh wood-screw

!/2"

C

b.

HFRONTRAIL

#/8"bull-nose

Installmagnetic catches

only if adding doors

!/2" cove1"

1!/2"

24!/2"

TOP

27!/2"9!/2"

10 "!/4

CAP

29 "#/4

G

F

6"

9

E2" HFRONT RAIL

BACK RAIL

TOP

CAP G

F

SIDE SECTIONc. d.

b.

a.


As soon as the doors had been addedto the wall shelf, I just couldn’t call ita “shelf” any more — it had becomea display “cabinet.” I don’t know ifadding doors is enough to change thename of a project, but they certainlydo change the overall appearance.

The nice thing is, adding doorsdoesn’t complicate the shelf proce-dure all that much. To make thingseasier, I did cut the hinge mortisesin the side pieces before assembly(as shown in the box on page 15),and I also added the magnetic catch-es to the front rail before attachingthe rail to the top piece (page 17).Otherwise, everything is the same.

SIZING THE DOORS. The two doorsare designed to be mounted to thefront of the shelf with a 1/8" gap atthe top of the doors (Fig. 4a). Andthe door stiles (A) are sized sothey’re flush with the square shoul-der just below the bottom shelf, asindicated in Fig. 1 below.

As always, the length of the rails(B) requires a little math. To makethis as easy as possible, the tenons

are an even 1" long, and the rails aresized so the doors will fit with nogap between them. (They’ll betrimmed to create the gap later.)

MORTISES & TENONS. With the doorpieces cut to size, the next step is towork on the mortise and tenonjoints that hold the frames together.

I mentioned that the tenons werean even 1" long, but the mortisesare slightly deeper (11/16") to make alittle room for excess glue (Fig. 1a).To create the mortises, I drilledoverlapping holes with a Forstnerbit and then cleaned up the sidesand squared the ends with a chisel.

The tenons are also straightfor-ward (Fig. 1b). I cut mine with adado blade, using an auxiliary mitergauge fence to support the rails.

ASSEMBLY. After you’re sure thetenons fit the mortises, you can glueup the frames. (For some clampingand assembly tips, check out thearticle that starts on page 22.)

RABBET FOR GLASS. Before mountingthe doors to the shelf, you’ll need tocreate an opening for the glass. This

OPTIONAL DOORS

CGLASSSTOP

( x )#/8" #/8"

NOTE: " gap at topand between doors

!/8

B

11"

2"

2 "!/2

2"

2"

2"

2"

STILEA

RAILB

27"

A

1

NOTE:Mortiseisdeeperthan tenonfor excessglue

!/16"

STILEA

!/4"

#/8"

1!/16 "

1!/4"

a.

!/4"

#/8"

#/8"

1"RAIL

B

1!/4"

2"

b.


is done by rabbeting the insideedges of the door, as shown in Fig.2. To allow clearance for the bearingon the bit, you’ll need to set theframes on spacers (Fig. 2a). Andsince a round bit can’t cut a squarecorner, you’ll need to complete thecorners with a chisel (Fig. 2b).

HANG DOORS. When you’re ready tohang the doors, the first step is toset them in place and mark theamount to trim off each center stile.The goal here is for the gap betweenthe doors to match the gap at thetop of the doors. Then you canscrew the hinges into the mortisesin the sides of the shelf (Fig. 4).

With the hinges mounted to theshelf, the trick now is to attach thedoor to the hinges. For this I usedcarpet tape. To keep the hinge fromfolding in, you can slip a temporaryshim between the hinge leaves.Then position the door over theshelf and press it against the tape.Now you’ll be able to carefully openthe door and mark the screw holelocations on the door.

GLASS & STOP. At this point, the 1/8"-thick glass can be ordered andinstalled (which means the doorswill need to be removed). The glassI ordered was 1/8" smaller than theopening (in both directions). And tosecure the glass, I made the glassstop (C) shown in Fig. 3. But beforetacking the stop in place with brads,

you’ll want to stain and finish theproject. Then you can install theglass. Now’s also the time to add thedoor knobs and the strikes for themagnetic catches you’ve installed inthe front rail (Figs. 4a and 4b).

When the doors have been putback on the shelf, the project can behung on the wall using the keyholehangers. Just make sure that ifyou’re not screwing into wall studsthat you use a sturdy anchor. W

NOTE: Scrapblocks used toraise door for

bearingclearance

Move routerclockwise

Rabbetfor glass

NOTE:Rout rabbetin multiple

passes

2

!/8"-thick glass

C GLASSSTOP

( x )#/8" #/8"

3

NOTE: Knob iscentered on stile

1 woodknob

!/4"

2" x 1 "hinge

#/8

END SECTION

STILE A

Rabbet bit set" deep!/2

Scrap block

a.

END SECTION

A

#/4"-long brad

C

a.

C

A

SIDE SECTION

Magneticcatch andstrike

!/8"gap

B

C

a.

1 woodknob

!/4"

SIDE SECTIONA

SIDESECTION

b.

Square cornerswith chisel

b.

4

CUTTING DIAGRAM

MATERIALSA Door Stiles (4) #/4 x 2 - 27B Door Rails (4) #/4 x 2 - 11C Glass Stop (1) #/8 x #/8 - 48 rgh.

SUPPLIES• (2) !/8" Glass Panes (9%/8" x 23%/8")• (1 pkg.) Wire Brads (#/4" long)• (2) 1!/4"-dia. Wood Knobs w/Screws• (2 pr.) 2" x 1#/8" Ant. Br. Hinges w/Screws• (2) (/16"-dia. Barrel-Style Magnetic Catches


AA

BB

CC

To allow the wall cabinet onpage 14 to sit tight againstthe wall, I used keyholehangers recessed into thetop rail. As you can see inthe margin photo, thesehangers have an openingthat’s wider at the bottomand narrower at the top.This allows the hanger tocapture the head of a screw.

Ideally, the hangersshould be 16" apart so youcan hang the cabinet onwall studs. (If you can’thang the cabinet on studs,

use hollow wall hangers.)After determining the

location of the hangers, adado is cut in the top rail,as shown in Fig. 1. Cut thedado just deep enoughthat the hanger sits flushwith the surface of therail. Then to provide clear-ance for the screw head,use a 1/2" Forstner bit todrill a couple of shallowholes in the dado, asshown in Fig. 2.

LOCATING NAILS. Once thehangers are in place, the

real challenge is position-ing the screws (or hollowwall hangers) in the wallso that they align with thekeyhole hangers. What Ido is drive a brad into theopening in each hanger,

like you see in Fig. 3.Then snip off the top ofthe brad. When you pressthe cabinet against thewall, the brads will leavemarks showing where todrive the screws. W


TIPS FROMOUR SHOP

Fasten straight pieceof scrap alonglayout line

BasepieceCarpet tape

NOTE: Curved portions of profilecompleted with drum sander

Fasten straight pieceof scrap alonglayout line

BasepieceCarpet tape

NOTE: Curved portions of profilecompleted with drum sander

1

Aux.fence

Rail

1

Flushtrim bit

Square upcorners with chisel

Routingdirection2

Keyholehanger

Rail

Cabinetback

2%/16"

#/4"

!/2"

!/2

!/8

"-dia.holes," deep

a.Drive bradinto hanger,then snipoff head

3Stud

BradNOTE:After markingwall, removebrad and drivescrew into wall

SIDEVIEW

Wall

a.

SHOP NOTESNine times out of ten, it’seasier (and less work) tocut a straight line than acurved profile. The base ofthe plywood chest shownon page 26 is an exception.The curved profiles thatform the sturdy-looking“feet” at the corners are rel-atively easy. There’s a tem-

plate to follow, and thecurves are fairly simple.

The trick here is creat-ing the straight lines thatconnect the feet. And try-ing to sand a straight linewith a round sander isnext to impossible.

ROUTER TABLE. So what Idid was use a flush trim bit

in the router table. Thetrick is to fasten a straightlength of scrap to the basepiece with carpet tape, likeyou see in Fig. 1. Justmake sure the edge of thescrap aligns with the lay-out line. Now all you haveto do is adjust the heightof the flush trim bit so that

the bearing rides on thescrap, as shown in Fig. 2.

CORNERS. As you rout,you’ll need to stop short ofeach end since the routerbit won’t reach into thecorners. To complete theprofile, chisel along thelayout lines to square upthese corners. W

%/8"

!/8"

Aux. fence

Rail

END VIEWa.

Routing Straight Profiles

Keyhole Hangers

{ Hangersrecessed intothe rail of thecabinet let itsit flushagainst thewall.

When I was mitering thedoor casing to make theface moldings for the ply-wood chest on page 26, Idiscovered that some of thecorners didn’t meet prop-erly. One piece of moldingsat higher than the matingpiece, as you can see in thephoto. The problem wasthat the thickness of themolding varied slightlyalong its length.

TWO METHODS. There area couple of ways you canbring the pieces to thesame thickness. When

there is a lot of material toremove, it’s quickest tostart by shaving the backface with a block plane, asshown in Fig. 1. Planetowards the point of themiter, taking light cutsand stopping to checkyour progress frequently.When the faces of themoldings are close toaligning, switch to the sec-ond method to finish up.

This involves placing apiece of adhesive-backedsandpaper on a flat sur-face, like you see in Fig. 2.

(I used my table saw.)Then sand the back faceuntil the faces of the mold-ings meet perfectly.

Depending on thedirection of the grain, youmay not be able to planethe molding without get-

ting some tearout. Inthese cases, you’ll have touse the sanding method.To save some work, startwith a coarse grit, thenswitch to a finer grit as thepiece gets closer to fin-ished thickness. W


NOTE: Plane back facelightly, working towards

point of miter

Doorcasing

Low-angleblock plane

1

NOTE:Use sandpaperon flat surface

to finish up

Table sawtop

Self-adhesivesandpaper

2

< A long metalstraightedge willhelp you seewhen the wingis level with thetabletop.

The drop leaves on the cof-fee table on page 6 let youhave a bigger table quicklywhen you need one, with-out taking up a lot of floorspace. But the leaves dopose a problem — gettingthem to sit level with thetabletop when they’reraised. Even with the sup-ports fully extended underthe leaves, the leaves maystill sag slightly. The curefor this is to give each leafa little boost by using awedge between the leaf andthe support.

CUT FROM EDGE. To createa durable wedge withgood gluing suface, it’sbest to cut it from the edgeof a scrap piece, as shownin Fig. 1b. (This can bedone quickly with either aband saw or hand saw.)

POSITION. Once you’vegot the wedges cut, lift theleaf on the table and pullout the support. To helpme see when everythingis level, I like to set astraightedge on the table-top. Now the wedge canbe slipped between the

leaf and the support (Fig.1). When you’ve got itpositioned to where youwant it, you can mark its

outline on the leaf, asshown in Fig. 1a. Then flipthe table over and glue thewedge in place. W

< Variations inthickness maycause one pieceof molding tostand proud ofthe other.

Matching Miters

Leaf Wedges

Straightedge

NOTE: Insert wedgeuntil leaf is levelwith table top

1

Marklocation

of sides andend of wedge

BOTTOM VIEW

a.

Cut wedge fromedge of boardto get a bettergluing surface

b.

WOODWORKINGTECHNIQUE

CLAMPING & ASSEMBLYThe secrets to goof-proof glue-ups are found in what you do after the pieces are cut and before the glue goes on.

efore reaching for the glue bottle,I always pause and take a deep

breath. Once the glue is applied,there’s no turning back. It will start toset in just a few minutes, so thingshave to go right the first time.

It doesn’t matter what size orshape the assembly is — an edge-to-edge panel or flat frame, simpledrawer or large carcase, thin edgingstrips or a large tabletop lamination.Each has its own challenges — andsolutions (which I’ll get to in aminute). But there are still somebasic steps that I always try to takewith every assembly.

ASSEMBLY SURFACE. The first thingneeded is a flat work surface. If it’snot, you’ll have to work that muchharder to get your assembly flat andsquare. (Or you may not notice aproblem before it’s too late.)

A workbench is a natural assem-bly table, but for smaller projects, atable saw is another good choice.(Be sure to protect the top surfacewith paper.) And for large projects, Ilay down a solid-core door to evenout the bumps in my shop floor.

LABEL PARTS. Another ingredient fora smooth assembly is organization.The time to figure out top from bot-tom and left from right is before the

glue goes on. For a flat panel, likethe one in Fig. 1, a “carpenter’s tri-angle” drawn across the boards willhelp you get them back in the sameorientation quickly. And by writinglabels on mating pieces of frame andcase assemblies (Fig. 2), it’ll takejust a glance to tell which pieces gotogether and in what orientation.

DRY ASSEMBLE. But I find the mostimportant part of a successful glue-up (and the easiest to shortchange)is the dry assembly. Clamping up

the project without glue can helpyou find problems, so you can solvethem without getting frantic. Forexample, you may discover thatpieces need to go together in a par-ticular order. Or that you don’t haveenough hands to get parts togetherin the time it would take before theglue cures. It’s best to know thisbefore the glue goes on so you cancall in a helper if needed.

FLAT ASSEMBLIESGluing up panels from two or moreboards is one of the most commonglue-ups you’re going to face. Anotheris putting simple frames together.Both assemblies must end up flat withstrong, tight joints.

CLAMP COVERAGE. One thing to thinkabout (especially when gluing uppanels) is the number of clampsyou’ll need to pull the joints tight.The reason has to do with howclamping pressure is distributed.

As you can see in Fig. 1, clampingpressure extends out at about 45°

B

NOTE: Position clampsto get even pressurealong entire joint line

Pressure extendsat 45° angles from

clamp heads

Carpenter'striangle

NOTE: Alternate clampsto help keep panel flat1


With narrowerboards, clampsmust be closertogether

a.


angles from the head (and foot) of aclamp. With a wider board, a clampcovers a wider area. The idea is touse enough clamps to apply pres-sure along the full length of the jointlines. This means when workingwith narrower boards, you’ll need tohave a few more clamps on hand topull everything tight (Fig. 1a).

CENTERING PRESSURE. Besides havingenough clamps, you also want tomake sure the pressure is centeredon the thickness of the pieces. Andsince boards resting on the pipes orbars of the clamps often sit belowthe screws of the clamp, the pres-sure is applied down as well as intothe joint. The result is an assemblythat tends to buckle and joint linesthat refuse to close up.

With panels, a simple solution isto alternate the clamps above andbelow the panel, as shown in Fig. 1.But even here, the boards may shiftup or down at a joint line, causing a“bump” in the surface. At the endsof the workpieces, you can use themethod shown in the margin atright. In the center of the panel, Ifind a good blow with a “no-mar”mallet is the quickest way to get aworkpiece back “in line.”

Centering the pressure on thethickness of the workpieces is a lit-

tle different with a frame assembly.In these cases, just one clamp isused at each end, like you see in Fig.2. Here, to center the pressure, Ilike to use clamping blocks withrounded edges that are the samethickness as the workpieces. Theseblocks are slipped between theclamps and the workpieces, like yousee in Figs. 2 and 2a.

SQUARE FRAMES. With frames, thereis the additional concern of endingup with an assembly that’s square.Checking if it’s square is easy —just measure the diagonals, asshown in Fig. 2. If these dimensionsare the same, the panel is square. Ifnot, you can shift the clamps slightlytoward the longer diagonal andretighten them (Fig. 2b).

APPLYING GLUE & CLAMPING

It seems there are two glue-up ques-tions that I hear a lot: “How muchglue should I use?” and “How muchclamping pressure is enough?”There’s no simple answer to eitherquestion. It takes some experience

to determine what each joint needs.One thing I can tell you is that inboth cases, more is not better.

Applying too much glue justgives you a lot of squeeze-out toclean up later (creating other prob-

lems). What you need is a thin, evencoat, as shown in the first photo.

Besides applying too much glue,another common mistake is to tryto make up for a poor fit by increas-ing clamping pressure. Even the

strength of Herculeswon’t make a joint anystronger. Once thepieces have madecontact or the jointhas closed, apply justenough additionalpressure to hold thepieces in position. Athin bead of glueshould appear alongthe joint line, as in thesecond photo.

{ How much glue? A strong joint needsa thin, even layer of glue. Spread theglue with a brush or piece of scrap.

{ How much pressure? Apply clampingpressure until an even bead of glueforms along the joint line.

{ Tightening a clampacross the end of ajoint line draws thesurfaces of theboards flush.

NOTE:Panel is squarewhen diagonalsare equal

Label matingpieces

Tapemeasure

2

END VIEW

NOTE: Rounded clamping blockprotects edge and centers pressureon thickness of workpiece

a. TOP VIEW

NOTE: If door is out ofsquare, move clampstoward longest diagonal

Clamppullingframeout ofsquare

Shiftingclamp

pulls framesquare

positionslightly

b.


{ These assemblyblocks help holdparts of a caseuntil the clampscan be positioned.Just cut a pair ofintersecting dadoesin pieces of scrap.

Case AssembliesWith panels and frames, you want toend up with flat assemblies. Whengluing up a box-type assembly (like adrawer or cabinet case) the goal is toclamp up assemblies that are square.

A back that’s set into rabbets willmake this job a lot easier. It can beset in place (at least temporarily) tohelp square up the pieces (Fig. 1).

And if the case doesn’t have aback, then a simple squaring formdoes the same thing (Fig. 1a). Apiece of hardboard or plywood sizedto fit inside the case is all you need.And by clipping the corners, youdon’t have to worry that it’ll becomea permanent part of your assembly.

SEQUENCE. Open, four-sided boxesare fairly straightforward to assem-ble. Add a divider or some fixedshelves, as in Fig. 2, and you’ll needto do a bit more planning.

While my initial inclination is toclamp up the sides first, it’s ofteneasier to work from the inside out,as you can see in Fig. 2. And manytimes, a large case is best tackled intwo stages. (Taking a little extratime when dry assembling will helpyou find the best procedure.)

Large assemblies are also hard tohold together while you’re gettingthe clamps in place. But you canquickly cut a couple of extra “hands”

to help you temporarily hold thepieces, as shown in the left margin.

CAULS. Wide boxes and cases pres-ent an additional challenge — get-ting the pieces pulled tight acrossthe entire width of the joint. Sinceclamps put pressure only on the out-

side edges of the joint, you’re oftenleft with a gap at the center. Thesolution here is a caul — a scrappiece with a slightly curved edge(Fig. 2a). This curve extends the“reach” of the clamp heads so thecenter of the joint is pulled tight.

SQUARING GAUGE

NOTE: Whendiagonals areequal, box issquare

A common way to check an assem-bly for square is to measure the diag-onals. When the measurements areequal, you’ve got a square assembly.

GAUGE. While a tape measure willwork for this, I often use a simplesquaring gauge. This way, I don’thave to remember dimensions thatchange as the assembly is adjusted.

If you look at the detail in thedrawing at right, you’ll see that thisgauge is just a couple of narrowpieces of scrap that slide againsteach other. One piece has a slotthat accepts a bolt and a dowel thatserves as a guide. Tightening awing nut locks the gauge at a spe-cific length. And one end of each

piece is tapered to fit tightly intothe corners of the assembly.

USING GAUGE. To use the gauge,just loosen the wing nut andextend the ends of the gauge intoopposite corners of the box, asshown in the drawing. Snug thewing nut just enough to keep thegauge from sliding. (This makes iteasier to adjust the gauge as youcheck the diagonals.)

Now position the gauge acrossthe other diagonal. If one diagonalis longer, squeeze those two cor-ners toward each other and adjustthe clamps. Check the diagonalsagain and repeat the process untilthe diagonals are of equal length.

Cut bevelon ends

!/4"carriagebolt

"slot

!/4

Wing nut& washer

Guide pin( " dowel)!/4

Back

Case

NOTE: Backhelps keepcase square

1

FIRST: Glue up insidesub-assembly

SECOND: Addouter portionsto inside assembly

Curvedcaul

Spacers provideclearance for clamps

2

Squaringform

Corners cut soform isn't gluedinto case

a.

Slight curve onedge of caul

a.

a.


Face to Face

{ To hidethe edges of theplywood, the lidof the storagechest (see page26) is wrappedwith hardwoodedging.

Wideclamping blockspreads pressureover wider area

1

Packingtape

Tape clampsedging to

shelf

3Anchor block clamped inmiddle of panel allowsuse of shorter clamps

Spacer block

Clampingblock

Edging

2

Brad with headsnipped off "bites"into mating pieceto prevent slipping

Glue

Screwsprovide clamping

pressure

1 Sand or plane slight curveto direct clamping pressure

to middle of panel

Caul

HardboardPlywood

base

2

I’ve found the biggest challengeswhen gluing workpieces face to faceare keeping the pieces in place andclamping them securely.

To fasten two large, flat surfacestogether, I’ll usually use contactcement. It bonds the pieces in placeinstantly. But there have been timeswhen I need to be able to makesome slight adjustments as thepieces are brought together, or I

need a stronger bond than contactcement provides. In these cases, I’lluse yellow glue. The problem is thatwhen the pieces are pressed togeth-er, they tend to slide around, likethey’ve been greased.

BRADS & SCREWS. One way to getaround this is to drive a couple ofbrads into one workpiece and snipoff the heads, as shown in Fig. 1.When the two pieces are pressed

together, the brads “bite” into themating piece and keep it in position.And since it can be tough to getclamps to the middle of the work-pieces, screws will help secure thepieces while the glue dries.

CAULS. For larger areas, cauls (likethose used for case assemblies)come in handy. The curved edgeputs pressure in the middle of thepanel, as shown in Fig. 2. W

EdgingWhen plywood is used in a project,you have to consider how to hide theplies on any exposed edges. One wayto do this is by applying hardwoodedging. The photo at right shows anexample — the lid of the plywoodchest shown on page 26.

CLAMPING BLOCK. Getting even pres-sure across a narrow edging stripwould require lots of clamps posi-tioned close together. The solutionshown in Fig. 1 is to use a wideclamping block. Like clampingwider boards in a panel, this spreadsout the pressure from each clamp.

To keep the clamping pressurecentered on the edging, two thingscan be done. First, elevating the ply-wood on a spacer strip aligns thecenter of the panel with the head ofthe clamp (Fig. 1a). And second, theedge of the clamping block is round-ed to direct the pressure to the cen-ter of the edging.

EXTENDING CLAMPS. When gluingedging on a long piece of plywood,you may not have clamps longenough to reach the length of thepanel. Fig. 2 shows a way to get thejob done with shorter clamps. All

you have to dois clamp an anchorblock across the panel andthen run your edging clamps tothe anchor block.

TAPING. There are some projectswhere the edging isn’t applied untilafter the case is assembled. If theback of the case is already in place,there’s no way to get clamps ontothe edging. A little trick I use inthese situations is shown in Fig. 3. Afew strips of packing tape can beused to hold the edging in placewhile the glue dries.

!/4" spacer Rounded edgecenters pressure

a.

PLYWOODPROJECT

STORAGE CHESTWhat’s the secret to building this storage chest in a weekend? Ready-made moldings and a single sheet of plywood.

very time I walk through a homecenter or hardware store, I find

myself wandering down aisles, look-ing at things I never came in for. Onone of these side trips, my eye wasdrawn to the display of door, window,and floor moldings. It seemed likethere should be a way to put some ofthese nicely milled moldings to usedressing up a project. That’s wherethe idea for this chest was born.

Anyone looking at this projectwould be hard pressed to tell that itwas built from one sheet of plywood,some of that ready-made molding,and a few board feet of hardwood.But that’s exactly what this is.

BUTT JOINT BOX. The chest is a ply-wood box with a plywood lid andbottom. There’s no fancy joinery —-just butt joints and miters. The pre-milled moldings (door casings) areapplied to the plywood and give it aframe and panel look.

BASE OR FEET. This project offers acouple of options for the bottom. Asshown in the main photo, you canbuild a hardwood base with a profilecut in it. Or as you can see in thesmall photo, a set of turned legs canbe used. You can turn these yourselfor do what I did and order themfrom a catalog. (See page 28 formore details about both options.)

E

{ Bun feet give the storage chest adifferent look. Try your hand atturning them on the lathe or orderthem ready-made from a catalog.


LID

TOP CAP

BOTTOM CAP

No-mortise hinges arequick and easy to install

FRONT

SIDE

MOLDING

BASEQUARTER ROUND

BOTTOM

Hardwood edging hidesplywood edge

All panels can becut from one sheet

of plywood

Pre-milled door casingand quarter round

purchased from home center

Door casingapplied to panelsforms a "frame"

Cap moldinghas cove profile

Simple "foot" profilecut with pattern,see page 31

Panels joined atcorners with

butt joints

NOTE: Casing"frame" appliedafter chest isassembled

Glue blocksreinforce base


Tongue and groove alignsmolding on plywood panel

Quarter roundgives cornersa finishedappearance

Butt jointedplywood

panels

ALSO NEEDED: One 4x8 sheet of " oak plywoodFive pieces of 7' oak door casing6' of " x " oak quarter round

#/4

#/4 #/4

¾"x 5 " - 72" Oak (2.75 Bd. Ft.)!/2

#/4 !/2" x 4 " - 72" Oak (2.25 Bd. Ft.)

#/4 !/2" x 5 " - 72" Oak (Two Boards @ 2.75 Bd. Ft. Each)

L M

CC

CC

DD

D

K

D

J J

K

OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 22!/2”H x 32!/2”W x 21”D

MATERIALS & SUPPLIESA Front/Back Panels (2) #/4 ply. - 16 x 30B Side Panels (2) #/4 ply. - 16 x 17C Fr./Bk. Cap Molding (4) #/4 x 1#/4 - 32D Side Cap Molding (4) #/4 x 1#/4 - 20!/2E Horiz. Front/Back Mldg. (4) Profile x 30F Horiz. Side Molding (4) Profile x 18!/2G Vert. Panel Molding (8) Profile x 15!/2

H Quarter Round (4) #/8 x #/8 - 15!/2I Lid/Btm. Panels (2) #/4 ply. - 18!/2 x 30J Lid Frt./Bk. Mldg. (2) #/4 x 1!/4 - 32!/2K Lid Side Molding (2) #/4 x 1!/4 - 21L Base Front/Back (2) #/4 x 4 - 31!/2M Base Side (2) #/4 x 4 - 20

• (12) #8 x 1!/4" Fh Woodscrews• (8) 4d Finish Nails• (1 pair) 2!/2" x !%/16" No-Mortise Hinges

w/ Screws• 16" Lightweight Chain (Black)• (2) #6 x !/2" Rh Woodscrews• (2) !/2"-dia. Felt Dots

CUTTING DIAGRAM

CaseThe case is really quite simple. It’sjust a plywood box with butt joints.

PANELS. Start by cutting to sizethe front/back panels (A) and theside panels (B), as in Fig. 1.

The top and bottom edges ofthe panels will be covered by mold-ing. To help align the molding, atongue is cut on the top and bot-tom edge of each panel. As Fig.1b shows, this tongue will fit intoa groove in the molding.

To make sure the tongues andgrooves fit snugly, I made a testgauge by cutting a groove in apiece of scrap, as shown in themargin. There are two key points tokeep in mind as you make the gauge.First, if you use a 1/4" dado blade, youcan easily duplicate the groove later.And second, make sure the distancefrom one edge of the scrap to the farside of the groove equals the thick-ness of a panel (Fig. 1b).

With the gauge done, you can putit to use as you make the tongues.This is done by cutting rabbets onthe long edges of the panels, like yousee in Fig. 2. (Save the test gauge.It’ll come in handy again later.)

ASSEMBLY. After the tongues havebeen cut, the case is ready to be gluedup. As you see in Fig. 1a, a few nailsin each butt joint help keep the casealigned while the clamps are applied.

MOLDING. The molding on the topand bottom edges of the case hidesthe plywood edges. It also providessolid surfaces for attaching the bottompanel and the hinges for the lid later.

To make the molding, rip fourfront/back cap moldings (C) and fourside cap moldings (D) to finishedwidth and cut them to rough length.

GROOVE & COVE. The next step is tocut the groove in each molding piece.This requires the same setup youused when cutting the test gauge.Setting up the 1/4" dado blade is sim-ple enough. Positioning the rip fenceis easy, too. Just place the test gaugeover the blade, and slide the fenceagainst the gauge. Then adjust the

blade until it just grazes the bottom ofthe groove. Now you’re ready to cutthe groove in each cap molding piece,just like you see in Fig. 3.

After the grooves are completed,a 3/8" cove is routed on the outsideedge of each piece (Fig. 4).

MITERS. Once the cove is done, thecap moldings can be mitered to fit


{ A test gaugeallows you tocheck for a perfectfit as you sneak upon the thickness ofthe tongue.

DC

!/4" dado blade

Cap molding1 "#/4

NOTE: Use test gaugeto set up fenceand blade

3

#/8" cove bit

DC

4

END VIEW

DC

!/4"

!/4"

Plywoodthickness a. END VIEW

DC

#/8"covebit

Leave "shoulder

#/8a.

D

C

BA

A

30"

16"

20 "!/2

17"

16"

32"

FRONTPANEL

BACK CAPMOLDING

SIDE CAPMOLDING

BACKPANEL

SIDEPANEL

NOTE: Panels are" plywood,

cap moldings are"-thick hardwood

#/4

#/4

1

Auxiliaryfence

Dado blade

B

(Outside face)A B

NOTE: Use test gaugeas you sneak up onthickness of tongue

2

END VIEW!/4"

!/4" BA

Aux.Fencea.

A

B

4d finishnail

a.

D

Plywoodthickness

#/8" cove

!/4"#/4"

1#/4"

BA

C

b.

TOP VIEW

A

D

B

Alignwithinsidecorner

C

c.


around the case. (See the box belowfor a tip on making perfect miters.)

To cut the molding to finishedlength, make a miter cut on one end.Now, position the piece on the casewith the inside corner aligned withthe inside corner of the case, asshown in Fig. 1c. Then mark on themolding the location of the otherinside corner of the case.

Sneak up on the molding’s finishedlength until the distance from shortpoint to short point equals the insidewidth of the case. Now just repeat thisprocedure for the other pieces.

CLAMPING. Gluing the cap moldingto the case was easy enough. Insteadof fumbling with clamps, I just held

each piece in place for the few minutesit took for the glue to “grab.”

CASE MOLDING. The sides of thechest appear to be frame and panelconstruction with a fancy profile onthe frames. The “frame” is actuallydoor casing glued to each face of thechest (see margin photo at right).

The first pieces to cut from thedoor casing are the horizontal mold-ings (E, F). As you miter thesepieces, the distance from long pointto long point should match the lengthand width of the case. Use clamps (noglue yet) to hold these pieces tightagainst the cap moldings while theeight pieces of vertical panel mold-ing (G) are cut to fit between them.

While dry fitting the moldings, Ifound that sometimes the surface ofone piece stood proud of the adjoin-ing piece (Fig. 5a). Some fixes for thisproblem are on page 21.

Once all the corners fit, the mold-ings are glued in place. The horizon-tal pieces are easy to clamp. But Ifound that tightening clamps acrossthe case to hold the vertical moldingcaused the inside edge of the mold-ing to lift off the case. So as Fig. 5shows, I again just held the pieces inplace until the glue grabbed.

QUARTER-ROUND. To fill in the cor-ners, lengths of pre-made 3/8" quarterround (H) are glued into the recessesbetween the panel moldings.

{ The moldings onthe sides of thechest are cut fromdoor casing, a pre-milled moldingpurchased at ahome center.

H

NOTE: Hold quarter roundin place until glue grabs

Cut quarterround to fitbetweencap moldings

QUARTERROUND

6

G

F

F

HORIZONTAL FRONTMOLDING

VERTICAL SIDEMOLDING

E

E

FIRST: Dry clamphorizontal moldingsin place

SECOND: Cut verticalmoldings to fitbetween horizontalpieces

NOTE: When gluing, clamp horizontalmoldings. Hold vertical moldings inplace by hand until glue "grabs."

HORIZONTAL SIDEMOLDING

5

E

G

See page 21for surfaces thatdon't match

a.

PERFECT 45° MITERS

Flip cutoffand placeagainst scrap

There’s an easy way to check thatyour miter gauge is set to a perfect45° angle. All you need is a straightpiece of scrap and a square.

With the miter gauge set to 45°,push the scrap through the blade,leaving a short (3" or so) cutoff.Then flip the cutoff over and placethe two mitered ends against eachother, like you see in the drawing.

Now check the corner carefullywith a try square.

If the corner is exactly 90°, thenyou’re ready to cut perfect miters.If there’s a gap between thesquare and the workpieces, or agap in the miter joint, make veryslight adjustments to the mitergauge until the test provides aprecise 90° corner.

Lid & Bottom PanelNow that the case is built and themoldings have been applied, it’s timeto add a lid and a bottom.

PLYWOOD PANELS. If you take a lookat Fig. 7, you’ll see that the lid andbottom panels (I) are plywood andstart out the exact same size.

After these panels are cut to size,the bottom can be fastened to thecase. Just center it on the bottom ofthe case and drill shank and pilotholes along each edge, like you see inFigs. 7 and 7a. The screws keep thepanel from sliding around as it’s gluedin place. Don’t worry about the ply-wood edges showing. They’ll be cov-ered later when you add the base.

Now you can turn your attentionto the lid panel. This piece is wrappedwith hardwood molding (J, K). Themolding is mitered to fit around thepanel. To help position it, I like to usea short, mitered piece of molding, asyou can see in the margin photo.When gluing the molding on, try toget both faces flush with the surfaceof the plywood. But you can count onhaving to do a little touch-up sanding.

The last thing to do is to ease thetop and bottom edges of the lid byrouting 1/8" roundovers on them. Youcan see this in Fig. 7b.

APRON BASE. At this point, you canbegin work on the apron base thatwraps around the bottom of the chest.(The chest can also be built with a

set of bun feet. The box below hasdetails about doing this.)

The base front/back (L) and thebase sides (M) are cut to finishedwidth and to rough length (Fig. 8).The joints at each corner are miters,but this time instead of pivoting thehead of the miter gauge, the blade istilted to 45° as shown in Fig. 9.

As you miter the base pieces tolength, you want to end up with aframe that fits snug around the bottompanel. But remember that it’s betterto have the pieces a hair long thantoo short. Long pieces will still meetat the corners, while pieces that aretoo short will end up with two cor-ners that have gaps.


BUN FEET OPTION

{ For a more “open” look, you can add bunfeet and some quarter-round base molding.

NOTE:Drill holes in

bottom paneland top of footto accept dowel

#/4" quarterround

!/4" dowel

If you prefer the look of the bun feet, you’llneed to add trim around the bottom panelto hide the plywood edges. The trim is3/4" quarter round (also called base shoe),mitered to fit around the panel.

The feet were mail-ordered, althoughyou could turn them yourself. (See page35 for sources and pattern information).

Since the top of each foot is end grain,I wanted a solid glue bond. So I choseepoxy to secure the feet. To keep the feetin place while the epoxy cured, I drilleda shallow hole in the top of the foot andalso into each corner of the bottom panel.Then, as shown at right, a dowel helpshold the foot in place while the glue dries.

{ To help align thelid molding at thecorners, clamp amitered piece ofmolding in placeand butt the work-piece against it.

J J

I LID PANEL

LID SIDEMOLDING

LID FRONTMOLDING

LID BACK MOLDING

30"

18 "!/2

21"

32 "!/2

30"

18 "!/2

BOTTOM PANEL

KNOTE: Screwshold bottompanel whileglue dries,see detail 'a'

NOTE: Top andbottom panelsare " plywood, moldingis "-thick hardwood

#/4#/4

I

7

I

#8 x 1 "Fh screw

!/4

CROSS SECTION

a.

CROSS SECTION

I

1!/4"

KJ

Sand flushif necessary

!/8" roundover

b.

If you want to turnyour own bun feet,detailed drawingsof the profile canbe downloadedfrom our website,For more informa-tion, see page 35.

PROFILE. Now that the base piecesare the right width and length, it’stime to shape the profile on each one.The first thing to do is to lay out eachprofile using the pattern shownbelow. When you look at Fig. 10, you’llsee that the profile can be roughedout on the band saw (or use a jig saw).

The arcs at each end are easilybrought to final shape with a drumsander in the drill press. The straightprofile between them was cleaned upwith a flush trim bit in the router table.(Details about this are on page 20.)

With the profile completed, thebase can be glued to the cap mold-ing around the bottom panel of thecase. And to reinforce each corner, aglue block is added behind each joint.This is just a piece of 3/4"-square scrapthat you can see in Fig. 8a.

HARDWARE. Once the base is com-plete, the lid can be attached with theno-mortise hinges. To do this, justscrew the hinges to the lid. Then havesomeone help hold the lid in positionon the case and screw the hinges tothe cap molding.

The last bit of hardware to add isa chain that keeps the lid from falling

backward as it’s opened. This isattached with a couple of screws tothe inside of the lid and the inside ofthe chest (Fig. 11). And to keep thelid from banging, a couple of felt dotsare added to the front corners the lid.

FINISH. The finish on this chest wasa blend of four different stains. Theexact mixture can be found in Sourceson page 35. For more about mixingyour own custom stains, see TalkingShop on page 34. W

ML

Auxiliary fence9

ML

FIRST: Rough outprofile on band saw

SECOND: Sand androut to finished profile,see page 20

Waste

10

9"

9"

#6 x "screw

!/2

4"

Drill "-dia.pilot holefor screw

#/32

16" blackchain

1 "!/4

2 "no-mortise

hinge

!/2

M

LBASEFRONT

No-mortisehinge

Glue block( " x ")#/4 #/4

Felt dot

Lid assembly

BASE SIDE

NOTE: Base piecesare "-thickhardwood

#/4NOTE: Cut base piecesto rough length, thenmiter to wrap aroundbottom panel (I)

31!/2"

20"

4"

8

11

5"

4"

1 "#/4

1 " radius#/4

1 square = 1"

BASE PROFILE PATTERN

ENDVIEW

ML

Aux.Fence

45°

a.

LI

#/4"

CROSS SECTION

Glue baseto bottompanel andcap molding

Glue block

M

a.

< The no-mortisehinges allow the lidto open far enoughto be out of the way.A short section ofchain keeps the lidfrom opening too far.


READER’SJIG

MITERING JIG

he challenge with miters is that onesetup is never enough. After you’ve

mitered one end of a frame piece, theother end still needs an opposing 45°miter. This means moving to the oppo-site side of the blade and adjustingthe angle of the miter gauge.

That’s why I like the mitering jigsent in by Henry Tong of Riverside,CA. There’s practically no set-uptime at all — no matter which side ofthe blade you’re on, as shown in thedrawings below. That’s because hisjig is a sliding base with a pivotingfence and two preset stops. Oncethe jig is set up, there’s no morefussing with any microadjustmentstrying to end up with a perfect fit.Plus, cutting to a layout line is easy.All you have to do is align the markwith the edge of the base.

Note: I built this mitering jigentirely out of 3/4" plywood becauseit won’t expand and contract likehardwood. This means there’s lesschance the fence will warp andthrow off the accuracy of the jig.

SIZE BASE. To make the jig, the firststep is to size the base to fit your

table saw. You want the base over-sized to begin with so it can betrimmed to exact width after therunner has been added (Fig. 1).

I should note that the dimensionsshown here are for the Delta con-tractor’s model table saw. But it’seasy figure to out how big to makeyour base. Find the miter gauge slotthat’s furthest from the saw blade(usually the one on the right side)and measure from the blade to thefar side of this slot. The base should

be at least double this measure-ment. (I made mine an even 12".)

ADD RUNNER. With the base cut torough size, the next step is to addthe runner. Size this piece to ridesmoothly in the miter gauge slot.But make sure the fit isn’t sloppy. Ifyou have a loose-fitting runner, itwill affect the accuracy of the jig.

With the runner cut to size, youcan cut a dado in the base to hold it.Because the miter gauge slots on atable saw aren’t the same distancefrom the blade, this runner won’t becentered on the base. Like the sizeof the base, the exact position of thisrunner will depend on your particu-lar table saw model.

There’s nothing tricky about this.Since the base is oversized, justposition the runner so that one edgewill be trimmed 1/4" or so. Thisshould leave plenty of “extra” fortrimming the opposite edge.

ADD RUNNER. Now the runner canbe glued to the base, and the edgesof the base can be trimmed to finalsize, as in Fig. 1. Then to complete

T

Jig moved toopposite side of blade

Fencepivoted againstsecond stop


Simple base with fence. This jig is just a slid-ing base with a fence that’s automatically set at45°, so there’s almost no set-up time.

Pivoting fence. The pivoting fence rests againstpreset stops, so the jig can be quickly switchedfrom one side of the blade to the other.

Base

Runner

Fence Stop

With this jig, you can be ready to cut perfect miters in seconds. And withits pivoting fence, the jig will work on both sides of the saw blade.

the base, you need to drill a 1/4"-dia.hole with a shallow counterborethat’s centered on the width of therunner (Fig. 1a). This will hold thecarriage bolt that secures the fence.

FENCE. At this point, it’s time towork on the pivoting fence that willsupport the workpieces. Like thebase, this plywood piece starts outoversized, as shown in Fig. 2.

The fence will be trimmed tolength later, so for now, all you needto do is drill a 1/4"-dia. hole that’s cen-tered on the width of the fence.Then the fence can be mounted tothe base with a carriage bolt, wash-er, and a plastic knob (Fig. 2).

STOPS. All that’s left to do is to addthe stops. The size of these smallpieces isn’t critical, but their posi-tion on the jig is. So to make it easyto adjust the stops, I drilled threeholes in each, as shown in Fig. 3a.The center hole is oversized so thestops can be adjusted slightly. Theoutside two holes will be used tolock the pieces in place after theyhave been positioned correctly.

To position the stops initially, Iused a large, plastic 45° triangle, asin Fig. 3. Set the triangle flush withthe edge of the base and tightagainst the fence. Then with thestop flush against the fence, screwthe stop to the base, using a round-head screw (and washer) in theoversized center hole (Fig. 3a).

TEST SETUP. With the stops screwedto the base, you’re ready to checkthe angle of the fence and the posi-tion of each stop (Fig. 4). (I workedon one at a time here.) In the box onpage 29, there’s a quick tip for doingthis that requires just a scrap piece

and a square. And if you need tomake any adjustments, loosen thescrew and nudge the stop slightly.

After the stop is just where youwant it, it can be “locked” in placewith two flathead screws (Fig. 5). Ididn’t want to take the chance of thescrews shifting the stops any, sobefore adding the screws, I clampedthe fence and stop together andthen clamped the fence to the base.

Now that one stop is set, you can

repeat this procedure to “fine tune”the position of the other stop. Theonly difference is that this timeyou’re going to be working on theopposite side of the saw blade.

One more thing. Even though thefence will work in two positions oneach side of the blade, I like to havethe workpiece face the blade when-ever possible, as in the photo at left.This way, the fence will back up thecut completely. W


Waste

Waste

15"

12"

6"

!/4"-dia. holecentered onrunner

Runner

NOTE: Jig isbuilt with

" plywood#/4

1

!/4"-20 x 3"carriage bolt

!/4" (i.d.)fenderwasher

!/4"-dia.hole

Waste

Waste

16"9"

1 "#/4

Base andrunner

!/4"-20threadedknob

Pivotingfence

2

Scrap testpiece

4

Clamp stop and"lock" in place

with screws

Spacersstabilize base

5

45° plastictriangle

StopNOTE:To begin,add centerscrew only

Stop

33!/2"

1#/4"

#/4"

#/8"-dia.through hole

SECTION VIEW

#8 x 1 " Rh screwand washer

!/4

Stop

a.

FRONT SECTION

Counterborefor head ofcarriage bolt

CL

#/8"Base

Runner

!/4"-dia. holea.

FEATURE YOUR JIGIf you’ve designed and built an originalwoodworking jig and would like to see it fea-tured on this page, send your idea toWoodsmith, Reader’s Jig, 2200 GrandAvenue, Des Moines, IA 50312.

If we publish your jig, we will send you$100, plus a full set of Woodsmith backissues with binders. Include a sketch (orphoto), an explanation of how it’s used, andplease include a daytime phone number.


COMMENTS &QUESTIONS

TALKING SHOP

When it came time tochoose a stain for the ply-wood chest on page 26, Iknew exactly what color Iwanted. The problem wasthat it wasn’t available in anof f-the-shelf stain. So Idecided to mix it up myself.(You can read more aboutit on the opposite page.)

It’s really not as trickyas it might sound. That’sbecause over the years,I’ve made my own ver-sions of the stain sampleboards you see hanging atthe hardware store (seeleft photo below).

CUSTOM BLENDS. Whenyou need a color that isn’tcommercially available,the place to start is withthe sample boards. Justfind a stain that’s closestto the color you want.Then try to determinewhat color needs to beadded to it to get theshade you’d like. Find thestain on the sample boardclosest to that secondcolor and start mixing andexperimenting.

A few tips here.First, you’ll findit’s easier to makea light stain dark-er than to make adark stain lighter.Also, as the sayinggoes (sort of), oil-based stains andwater-based stainsdon’t mix. You’llalso get betterresults if you onlymix similar stainsof the same brand.

SAMPLES. You’lllikely need a num-ber of attempts to get thecolor just right. To speedthings along, I’ll mix upseveral samples in a row,each building on the lastone. For example, afterbrushing the first sampleon the test piece, I’ll meas-ure out and add more ofthe darker stain to themixture. If the color isn’tquite right, just repeat theprocess. You can see theresults in the photo above.

Remember, all you needis a little bit of stain for a

sample. A set of measur-ing spoons is perfect fordipping up small amountsin the right proportions.

TOP COATS. There isanother thing to consideras you choose a color.Applying a top coat, suchas a varnish or shellac,will alter the color of thestain slightly. So brush thetop coat onto a stain sam-ple to see what the colorwill actually look like.

LIGHTING. As you choosea color, keep in mind that

different types of lightingaffect how it will look.What looks right in thelight of your shop maylook noticeably differentin daylight. So make sureyou check your sample inthe room in which theproject will actually sit.

KEEP A RECORD. After find-ing the stain and the topcoat that you like, it’s agood idea to write it down.This makes it much easierto duplicate the finish incase you have to repair anick or if you want to builda matching project.

One way to do this is towrite the information onthe project in an out of theway spot, like the back ofa drawer or under a tabletop. But if you give theproject away, your infor-mation goes with it. Soyou may also want to keepa “recipe file” with thename of each project andthe finish you used on it(see second photo). W

Sample Boards. Pieces rescued from thescrap pile allow you to see how the samestain looks on different species of wood.

File. Regular 3x5 file cards in a lidded boxare a perfect way to keep a record of whatstain and top coat was used on each project.

Custom Stain Mixing


WOODSMITH PROJECT SUPPLIESTo order a hardware kit from Woodsmith ProjectSupplies, please use our Toll Free order line, see below.It’s open Monday through Friday, from 8 AM to 5 PMCentral Time. Before calling, please have your VISA,MasterCard, or Discover card ready.

If you want to mail in your order, call the numberbelow for more information concerning shippingcharges as well as any applicable sales tax.

1-800-444-7527When ordering, please use Key W135

Note: Prices subject to change after August 2001.

• “On-line Extras” - Plans, Patterns, & More• Over 100 Woodworking Tips Online• Visit Our Readers’ Project Photo Gallery • Project Plans You Can Download• Catalog of Project Kits, Tools, Jigs & Plans• Forums for Woodworking, Tools & Classifieds• Links to Other Woodworking Sites• Order Woodsmith/ShopNotes Back Issues

www.woodsmith.comwww.woodsmith.com

on the webon the web

Most of the hardware andsupplies needed to build theprojects in this issue areavailable from local hard-ware stores, home centers,woodworking stores, orfrom the mail order sourceslisted at right. The materi-als list with each article willtell you exactly what youneed to build the project.

COFFEE TABLEThere isn’t much hardwareneeded for the coffee tableon page 6. You may be ableto find the Z-shaped fas-teners locally. If not, theycan be ordered along withthe drop-leaf hinges fromone of the sources at right.

ON-LINE EXTRAS. As shownon page 10, with just a fewchanges, you can build amatching sofa table. Ifyou’d like measured shopdrawings for this project,visit our website (seebelow) and click on the“On-line Extras” button.

If you’d like to try yourhand at turning the legsfor either table, the dimen-sions for this are alsoavailable on our website.

READY-MADE LEGS. We pur-chased our turned legsfrom Grand River Wood

Products. The style weused is “Butcher BlockPine.” Other leg styles indifferent types of woodare available from some ofthe sources in the margin.

WALL SHELFBuilding the basic versionof the cabinet shown onpage 14 doesn’t take muchhardware. The keyholehangers, shelf supports,screws, and brads shouldbe available at most hard-ware stores. Or check withthe sources at right.

There are a couple ofoptions for the beadedboard used for the back. Ifyou’ll be painting it, checkat a home center to see ifthey carry beaded boardmade from MDF andalready primed. If you’reapplying a finish, look forreal wood beaded board.

DOORS. Adding the doorsto the cabinet adds somemore hardware. Hereagain, you can probablyfind the wood knobs,hinges, and magneticcatches at a local store, ortry the sources at right.

The glass should beordered from a local glassshop after the doors are

built. Just measure theinside of the doorsbetween the rabbets andsubtract 1/8" for clearance.

STORAGE CHESTYou can probably pick upall the materials needed forthe storage chest on page26 at your local home cen-ter. The only hardwareneeded is a few screws andbrads, a pair of no-mortisehinges, and a length ofchain to keep the lid fromfalling back. If you can’t findthe hinges, check with thesources at right.

The molding used onthe faces is door casing.Different lumber yardsmay carry different pro-files, so look around untilyou find one you like.

BUN FEET. The bun feetcan be ordered pre-made,or you can turn themyourself. The feet we usedcame from Grand River(see margin). They’reonly available in ash, butash is a close match tooak, which is what weused to build the chest.

TURNING DIAGRAM. If youwant to turn the bun feet,you can download the pat-tern from our website

(see below). Look for the“On-line Extras” buttonwhen you get there.

FINISH. Getting just theright color for the chestwas a challenge, to say theleast. I ended up mixingtogether four stains fromGeneral Finishes for thefirst coat. This consistedof three parts of RedMahogany, two parts ofWalnut, and one part eachof Honey Maple andAntique Cherry. After thishad dried, I brushed on asecond coat of just theRed Mahogany.

For the top coat, I wipedon three coats of Hope’stung oil varnish.

ON-LINE EXTRAS BY MAIL

If you’d rather order any ofour On-line Extras by mail,send a self-addressed,stamped, #10 businessenvelope to:

WoodsmithP. O. Box 842Des Moines, IA 50304

• On the envelope, pleasespecify which of the fol-lowing you would like:

Bun Foot PatternCoffee Table LegSofa Table Drawings W

Online Customer ServiceClick on Subscriber Services at

www.woodsmith.com• Access your account status• Change your mailing or email address• Pay your bill• Renew your subscription• Tell us if you’ve missed an issue• Find out if your payment has been received

MAILORDER

SOURCESSimilar project

supplies andhardware maybe ordered from

the followingcompanies:

Adams Wood Products423-587-2942

www.adamswoodproducts.com

Bun feet, Turned legs

Grand River Wood800-475-4001www.grandriver

wood.comBun feet (Stock no.

BF44A), Turned legs(Stock no. BB15P orBB29P), Wood knobs

Lee Valley 800-871-8158

www.leevalley.comCoffee table hardware,Wall shelf & cabinet

hardware, No-mortisehinges

Rockler Woodworking800-279-4441

www.rockler.comCoffee table hardware,Wall shelf & cabinethardware, Bun feet, No-mortise hinges

Woodcraft800-225-1153

www.woodcraft.comCoffee table hardware,Wall shelf & cabinet


Woodworker’s Supply800-645-9292

Coffee table hardware,Wall shelf & cabinet


SOURCES

A LASTLOOK

FINAL DETAILS

{ Storage Chest. Perfectly sized to hold bed linens, pillows, or keepsakes,this chest can be made in a weekend from one sheet of plywood and someready-made moldings from the home center. Turn to page 26 for details.

{ Country Wall Shelf. This country project with its beaded-board back, can either be built as an open shelf or with theglass doors shown here. Instructions begin on page 14.

c{ Drop-Leaf Coffee Table. Need a tabletop that will expandwhen you need it to? Drop leaves look great and are easy tomake with just two common router bits and a pair of hinges, asdescribed on page 12. Plans for the table start on page 6.

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