Woodwork Joints 1917

8/13/2019 Woodwork Joints 1917

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THE MODELLIBRRY

No 12Price 25 c ts .

Woodwork ointsOWT MK ANDWHI;RI;T USI;TttI;M

CONTAINING

ull tnstructions for making Motiise and Tenon, Lap, Dovetail,Scarfing, and Glue Jo in ts, with a Chapter onGircularWoodwork

2009 The Toolemera Press - www.toolemera.com


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Copyright at Washington D. C., 1905.By SPON C -1AM lEIlLAIN.

CAMELOT PRIiSS 226.223 WILLIAM ST . NBW YORK U. S. A.

Before printing a,notheJ edition of this work ithas been deemed advisable to revise and enlargeit. To this end more than thirty new illustrationshave been added including some Angle Joints,Halving Joints, Mortice Joints, Dovetail ' Joints,Scarfing Joints and Joints fol' lengthening timbers,etc,This pook forms. one Qf L se.ries o pop1,1.lar and

pt'1J.ctiGa.l halJ,o,l?Qo;s,. It d ~ s c r i b e ~ c l ~ a r l y tJw cQnstructi(?11 of theprillcipa) j q i p . t ~ 1J,sed ip. ca.rpentry alld o n ~ r y andshows. not only bow t s ~ t them out, Put indicatesfor wha.t purpQse they are best suited.The irJ,struotiorJ,s given are by q practical joinerof many yean;' ex;perience, and are worded in assimple a fashion as possible, consistent with theuse of proper shop terms and phrases, which, however, are duly explained.It is hoped that this little book will ,be of especialvalue to amateur woodworkers, as well as to tradeapprentices and improvers, while it is possible

that even the more advanced workman will findsome wrinkles of value in its pages .The publishers will be pleased to receive anysuggestions that may prove of value for a futureedition.



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C()NTSNTS.PA-G B

M ORTISEAN D TENON JO INTS '.. 1.. 41";L AP" JOINTS .. ,.DOVEAIL 53GLUE JOINTS. ' . 64SCARFINGJO INTS, AND JO INTS LENGTHEN -

79NG TIMBERS . CIRCULAR WORK 92

.. ; ... . : \, .' ' . .. . G H P T R ' '. .. , ..

. ' .... - :: : '- ; : .. ' MoRJ' rsE ' AND T q : .. ' : --.' ., .. . ; _ . . . : - - .. ' :- , . . . .:, There : is no', ' t1lat the pointoftbe

;-,,: .' t jo inerlies:in- theJil.Ulty way in:which he .makes his joint s. . Nomatterwha,t he is doin g, orhoweverwell it mayloqkat fit:st . glance,a close'e xam ination will:t,1sually- reveal , faulty jo in ts , : and ; consequently ,defective Now ' -th e.reason for 'this sta te n'ot,somuch'th e 'want of ability ,'in the :use.of -nools . :nor the absence,of constructiveas t4t\ 'wantof. theproperof..ma,king vadousj9intsincommonandthewantof .guid ance indeCidingthemostjoin t fo r thejo-1: inhand .. . -It ismy .purpose,in- thepresen t volume,to 'en:to.heip the ..byil lustrating and desc ri bing tbe whole serie s ofjo in ts used .in common . carpentry and joinery ,towhat theycanpro-p erly beappli ed,and ex pla ining.the names of ea chandevery ' in ' simple ,a manner:. as possib1e. Iwouldadviseeveryoneofm y re aders ' whowishe stoneable to pro t bymy inftruc tiOriS ; 't.omakea smallmodele feach.withits . p roper. technieal 'canthen be

7



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8 WOODWORK . JOINTS.kept fo r reference, and , m ade care fu ll y , theywillformexeelli nipra dtic e,and11servethesamepurpose in car p'e fitry 'a s fhe totitirtu i: il p ractice ofthe scales in le arn ingm:tlsic, '

Beforecotllm encii1g expla tia tion of the jointsshown in thepresen tchapterj.shduldllketoim press upon evefyOne that, iii woothV brkirtg, it isof fir st im portance to prepare tIl e wdbd properly . _That is, itmust first be'plarie'd s tra Igh t, andoutof tw is t on one sid e, whiCh should in nearly al1case s be the bes t sidE of th wood. A rte rthis isdone, make a ': ' (as showri 6U manypieces hi. the p'feseht draw it 'i g s) t 'dwards bestedge , This Hitter musiihertbeplaned s t ra igh t ,also to a right- lin gle ,with the flite , testingitbymeansofasdtia re: ' isr6nithese 1;*0sidesthatall m a rks squareddndgatl ged, artd itwill bereadil y seen th at i these a re not true thework will be sure to twist ahd turn in all dire ctio ns;t is ev iden t if itis necessary fo r theexperienced

woodworkerto prepare h is materialpro perly , i tis muchmore so with the amateur.InFig . 1 tw o pieces of wood are shown, jo ined

at r igh t angle s bymeans of a m ortise andtenonjo in t, o r as a carpenterwould say, "tenoned"together. A is woodwithmort ise , B woodwithtenon. This ii l a very easy joint to make, themethodbeing as follows: To set out themortise take the piece marked A and square across on the ' fa ce" the tw o m arks C, shown in Fig. 2,the distance be tw een the tw o marks being the

MORTISE AND TENON ]01NTS. 9w id th or -the piece B These m arks C must be

across the tw o ed ges, ,where they giv eof the morti ses in length . For the

wIdth ofmort is e , a mortise gauge to about athirdof the th ickness of thewood, andmake the

tw o harksD takingcare tousc thegauge fro mthe face sid e. . ; ,To m ake themortise , remove thewood' exac tly

to the ,m arks , but not beyond. This is donem uch.easier holes .of su it ab lesize arebo redfirst.Both,m bo rm g iind usin g the chIsel, haH should j.Je done: from either;'side, arid , if done p roperly ,



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10 WOODWORK JOINTS.the mortise should be straight through when. fin:-ished, both at the sides and end. I t. is very, un -likely that it will be so at the first a t t . ~ p t , butthis should be t h ~ aim of everyone, as l,t IS really -very easy to make it so. . t iTo set out the tenon, square across the mark Eon the face side, continue on the fac1 edge, as

c

Io A

FIG. 2.shown, 'and then again a c r o ~ s the other side notthe edge; then gauge 'with the mortise ' gauge inthe same way as before' oli. the two edges, als.athe end; as shown . lit cutting th e teiJ.on (WhlChlSdone with a saw), the GUt is made,jusVoufside fthe gauge lines, so that the tenon is left full size',

and will just fit the mortise" likewise-'in: ' cuttingthe shoulde;s', ~ a w e fin; t ~ 6 t h e d ~ o n e ' should'be usedJ. mu'st ~ u t upt the'm:a:rksE, l'rat-onthem. 'ShouICferm:arks:,' as shouid c u t witka' knife'or h ~ s e l , 'not marke'a: with 'a pencl)), as: this ensures'. . - . .

: ; - ' " ... . ,;

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~ . . . ; - - - , - , , ~

a Cleaner .shoulcle.f,: and.:' conse.quentIY .a 'better'fitting j b i n t ~ .- , .. .. . . . , ..The joint shOwn in Fig: 3'( Ba'refaced '': tenon

joint complete) is used incases when one pi'eceto be joiried is l e s ~ in thjCkness than ' the other'the mortise . s then made' in themi.ddle. orneatl ;



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12 WOODWORK JO INTS .SO, as shown in ,Fig. 4, and the tenon formed witl1,a shoulder at one side only...-:t:his is called a barefaced ten011 and is usually found in tables andsimilar w6rk: , The only difference, in settirtg out,is that i n s t ~ d of the tenon being gauged with amortise gauge an ordinary marking gauge is set

to ttle thiclrness of the required tenon, and thisis used to gauge ,*ith. F, mortise for .barefacedtenon; G shoulder mark for ditto.It is often necessary to join pieces at rightangles, as shown in Fig. 5. This is done by , curtailing the mortise in length, and the tenon in

: :

- _FIG 5.



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16 w o o ) w Q ~ j \ . JOINT::?be entirely absGnt if tpe tenons ~ e r e inserted thefull width 'of the bra


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t ~ t e 9 : : pr:v:iouly .wilL apply .tc . his ;therefQre itwoutd .be ~ e e d l e s s repetition., Fig: -9 shows a double tenon which is oftenused in framing together wide timber. It requiresno 'description, being simply two ordinary tenonsinstead of one. The only point to rememberabout it is when setting out both the tenons andthe mortises to gauge from the face edge only,

FIG 10

as if the tenons are gauged one from i t h ~ sideof w o o d which seems at first sight the properway difficulties will be encountered. whe.n puttingthe framing together unless each p1ece S exactlythe same width; and this is seldom what we findto be the case.. In Fig. 10 is shown another form of doubletenon. This is used in the middle rail of paneldoors, when mortise locks have to be inserted

MORTISE AND TENON JOINTS. 9as, if the ordinary single tenons are used, the mor-tise made for the lock cuts away all the strengthof the door. What I said in reference to Fig . 9

FIG 11

applies with still more force to Fig. 10, thereforegauge both tenons from the face side of the rail.

Fig. shows a method of forming a longitu-dinal joint in upright timbers where a vertical

FIG. 12.

p r e s ~ u r e only is to be borne. It is a species ofvertlcal scarfing on the principle of mortise andtenon. . The joints are kept short as the ma.in



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22 WOODWORK JOINTS.Fig. 15 shows two pieces of timber to be p i ~ n e d

to ge cher A being mortised (see dotted hnes) ,and having the t enon. First bore the hole forthe pin, as at C, nearest the side w h i ~ h has to fitto the shoulder, as shown; then dnve the twopieces together, and with the point of the boring-bit mark the centre of the hole on the t enon.Now withdraw the latter from its mortise, and bore

\,\.

FIG. 15.the hole througil; but instead of placing the pointof the bit in th e hole, as marked, it must beplaced about an eighth of an inch n ~ a r e r the shoul-der. Thus, in the drawing, D is the point asmarked, and E the place for the point in boringthe hole.Now, on putting the two timbers together, theholes will be as shown in section in Fig. 16, andit is evident that on dr iving a properly fitting pin

MORTISE AND T ENON JO I NTS.

through them, the shoulders will be drawn up t oa tight fit , and held there securely.

In Fig. 17 is shown another kind of drawboring. F has a slot mortise in the end, andG a t e n ~ n to fi.t. The pinhole is bored th roughthe mortIse, as m the preceding example, and th eposition of the hole marked on the tenon in thesame way; but in this case we have not only todraw up the shoulders tightly, but also the tenonup to the end of the mortise. To manage thisthe point of bit is inserted nearer the shoulder,

FIG. 16 .before, but farther away from the edge of thet e ~ o n as at H and I which are respectively thepomt as marked, and the point to be used.Simple the operation of draw-boring appearson paper, It has many pitfalls for the novicew ? i c ~ will be as well to guard him against b e f o r ~dlsmlssmg the subject. Perhaps the most com- ~ n error is. in allowing too much draught . Hethmks that If an eighth of an inch is alloweda ~ d draws the joint fairly tight, double this a m o u n ~: 111 naturally draw it up so much tighter. ThisIS a great mistake . With the smaller amount of



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24 WOODWORK JOINTS.draught the pin will pass through the holes comfortably, and will answer all purposes; but withmore, the pin cannot pass through. Therefore, aportion only goes through the remainder goingas a rule along the surface of the tenon, and ap-pearing at the shoulder, thus preventing a c ose-fitting joint, instead of causing one. Therefore,allow a moderate amount of draught only.

F

oFIG 17

Another common error is to allow the draughtthe wrong way causing the pin to push the jointoff instead of drawing it up. This is easily

g u ~ r d e d g i ~ s t by remembering that the holein the tenon must be bored loser to the shoulderthan is marked; while to push the tenon up tightlyas in Fig. 17, the draught must be allowed thereverse way.

MORTISE AND TENON JOINTS. 25Fig . 18 is another method of securing this joint

by using two pins instead of one.For s u e s s ~ u l draw-boring it is necessary to

make the pins properly. We often see them madeas in Fig. 19 K); and then the makers wonderwhy they will not act properly . Now, if the pinsare made as at L they will draw in easily at first,and gradually tighten up filling the holes at bothsides, and no danger of splitting the wood.

oo

t ~

FIG 18

. ~ n ~ t be persuaded that cramping up andpmmng 1S as good as d r a w b ~ i n g ; it is not. Thelatter makes a much stronger job, and really takesscarcely any more time if set about in the properm a ~ n e r . I suppose I scarcely need say thatstralght gramed wood only is ?uitable for pins .

We now come to the method of wedging m o r t i ~and tenon joints. When this method of fixing is



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WOODWORK JOINTS.

and a comparison .of the two shapes will soonprove that this is so.In Fig. 22, at U are shown two faults whichoften show themselves in wedging up tenons. Onthe right the wedge penetrates through to theface side, owing to the tenon being too small forthe mortise, and accelerated by the use of toosmall a wedge; while on the left is shown a partof the face driven out by the use of a wedge ofthe same pattern as shown at S Fig. 19. Theremedy for each of these faults is obvious.

FIG. 22.At V and Ware shown two methods of what

is called fox wedging - that is, wedging tenonswhich go only partly through the wood. Themortises have to be made larger inside than out, .and the wedges sloped to the same extent, and afairly strong job is the result. V shows thewedges at the sides of the tenon, .and ~ h o : sthe tenon split and the wedges mserted m 1tThe latter makes the stronger job; but it is rathera difficult matter to make a satisfactory job, and,t.aken on the whole, such tenons are better fixedwith pins.

MORTISE AND TENON JOINTS. 29Fig. 3 shows how t6 cut'the wedges from thewaste wood in the haunchings in such work aspanel doors, sashes, etc., thus economizing both

time and material.Wedges must only be used abutting against end

grain; if against side grain, the work will cehainlysplit and be ruined; they must be the same thick-ness as the tenons-if thicker they will split thewood, and if thinner will turn round when driven,with the same result.

FIG. 23.I have before shown only simple tenons, inwhich both shoulders are of equal length; Ibut I

will now proceed to show some more c o m p l ~ c t e djoints, in which, owing to the framing having beadsand mouldings worked on it, the shoulders require

mitring and scribing to make them fit.In Fig. 24 is shown one of the most simple of this kind of tenons, and in Fig. 5 is shown thecorresponding mortise. As will be seen, a 'small



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3 WOODWORKJOINTS ... bead is stuckontheedge of theframingat A.And thismakesit necessary to thesfloulderonthat sid e thesame d is tance longer thanthe

FIG . 24 . .FIG.25.otherasthewidthof the beadst.uck on. Ferin stance, if a quarte rinchbead 1S used, one

F1G.26. FIG . 27.

shou lder mustbe one-quarter inchlonger thanthe th This extra length of shou lder allowso er. h' hmaterialsuff icient tomakethemitres.at B w 1C ,

MORTISE AND TENON JOINTS. 3when the f ram e is put together, intersectwitheachother,andmake a joint, as showninFig. 2GInorder to show more cle arly my m eaning , Ihaveshow n inFig, 27a sec tion of theframingnow descri bed.'InFigs. 28 and29 is shown another sim ple fo rm of f ram ing, which requires unequal tothetenons . No m ou lding of anykindis workedonth is , but it is rebated(as a door framefor in -

FIG . 28 . FI G. 29.

stance),andtheone shou lder must be depthof therebate longerthantheother;it is s im p ly sawn off square , nomit rebeing requiredinth iscase . A sec tion of thefram e is show n inF ig . 30.Figs. 31 and 32 show the tenon andm ortise respective ly o f whatmaybecalled a combinationof the fo rm er two joints , the fram e be ing bothrebatedandbeaded. t consequen tly requires thedepthof therebate,p lus th esize of beadallowed



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3 WOODWORK JOINTS.on one shoulder more than the other. Thus, withone-half inch rebate and one-quarter inch beadwe require the long shoulder three-quarters inch

DO ]FIG. 30. FIG. 33. FIG. 36.longer than the other; and, what requires thinkingof, the bead as f.hown in Fig. 31) must not bemitred close to the mortise, but the depth of the

FIG .31. FIG. 32.rebate away from it, as at D A section of thisframe is shown in Fig. 33,We have in Figs. 34 and 35 yet another form ofwhat may be called compound tenon and mortise.

MORTISE AND TENON JOINTS. 33I t is such as is used in some parts for door frameswhere the sills are bevelled through the greate;part of the width, as in Fig. 36, and it followsthat the shoulders must be beveled to fit. Insuch door frames the rebate is inside and the beveloutside, so that the shoulder at the ~ e b t e sideis cut square, and the other one longer, to fit 0nthe bevel of sill. The point to be careful of insetting out is to strike the beveled shoulder on

FIG. 34. FIG. 35.

the tenon from the same point of the width as thebevel starts from on the sill. In the drawingsthis is at the rebate line, which is a good place tobring it to if possible; but it cannot always bemanaged.In Fig. 37 is sMwn the section of a joint in which

both shoulders are of equal length, although thef:-aming is rebated. This is, however, balanced bythe chamfer on the opposite edge at E both shoulders, therefore, require cutting so much longer



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34 WOODWORK JOINTS.than when the framing was square in' section,the one sawn in square to fit the rebate, and theother on the bevel as shown to fit the chamfer.This latter is one of the simplest forms of a scribedjoint. .Another specimen of a scribed joint is shownin Fig. 38; in this case an ovalo is run on the opposite edge to the rebate. Thus the shoulders arcboth required the same length, as in Fig. 37, butthey must both be sawn off square. The ovalois then mitred, and the spare wood cut out with

,FIG. 38. FIG. 37.

chisel and gouge at right angles to the edge ofthe frame, so that it will fit as shown in the drawing. t is not usual to scribe the mouldingthrough the whole thickness, but about half way,the moulding being cut away from the mor-tise,where it will not show in the finished joint.Fig. 39 shows a section' in which the shoulderat the moulded side would have to be longerthan at the rebated side, according to the widt hof the ovolo.Otherwise it is the same as Fig. 33,and must be scribed in the same way. Fig. 40

MORTISE AND TENON JOINTS. ;35shows a bead of the same size as the depth of therebate, worked on the opposite edge, thus necessitating shoulders of the same length, but the onewill be mitred, and in Fig. ,4 the same is shown,but the r e b t e is a wide one, so that the mortisewill c o ~ e in it. Therefore the mortise is affectedand must be kept the depth of the rebate narrower:or if a slot mortise , it must be kept so much towardsthe end, and in mitring th e ' head, t,his must bedone exactly the reverse to what is shown in Fig. 32.So far, I have given no reason why in some cases

mitres. are used, and others scribing, and it0-- . . J. . ____ _ _ .FIG. 39. FIG. 41. FIG. 40.

may perhaps be as well if I do so. ' Any mouldingwhich finishes with a square member should bescribed at the angles; while such as finish with afeather edge, or die off to nothing, must be mitred,for the simple reason that it is difficult to scribethem. A glance at Figs. 42 to 45 will show mymeaning. Fig. 42 is an ovalo, and as it has asquare at F it is easy to scribe to it, as in Fig. 38,which is the same moulding, though of slightlydifferent section. ' Fig. 43 is an agee moulding.This can be scribed, but is far better mitred, not



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WOODWORK JOINTS,. F 44havinga 'well-defi ne dedg e to ,fi t upto, beis a lamb's-tongue m ould m g, and ,, , . k goo dworkbemg prac-mitred scnbmgtorna e . , h mf r 'b 'l 't F'g 45 lS a ceica l ly an.im possl 11 y, 1

' r - - \ JP D D,-- . .I .......( . . ... ....- . L J . ~ .. .......... ...-.- 42 . FIG 43 FIG. 44. FIG.45,-FIG '. . a. can be scrib ed direct with them ouldm g, an . h h ' IWhentheshould ersare cut, orWit a c isesa w, f dafter-the ' fo rm ermethodpreer:e .h t of a piece ofnFig, 46 is show n t e 10n

FIG,46. . FIG. 47,. . .. , .' h d e' thisis do tted forfra m in g rebatedoneac e g . , '11. ' . . nd the outside shoulder WIdouble 'm ortls es, ' thn. ' t b thpdepthof therebates lo nger ar :::qUlre 0 e . h f the' t G while one oroter 0 ,hemneronea, '

MORTISE AND T EN ON J OINTS. 37edge s ' were mould ed, that one w ould 'require:tobesomuchlongersti ll, toal lo w forthenecessary mitreorscrib in g, JInFig , 47 is show na taper ten on . Th iswasvery extensively used inolden tim es ; but isnow n ea rly obso le te , t is show nh ere m ore as whattoavoidthanasanexampletobefollowed . The

' sett ing outmust ei therbedonefr o: n thecentre,r twom ortis e gaugesuse d, andgreatcare

FIG. 48,quire d or thewood is sp lit w h en driv in g it together, Its hold in g po w er is w eak, owing toitswedge-l ike sh ape, so thataltogether it cannotberecom m endedItwill ben oti cedth at inthewholeof't hedraw ings thesi de of thet enonisbroughtto theedgeof therebate ,where thereisone,andwhere'are bothrebateandm ould ing , as inFigs, 33, 42to 45, the centr esquare should give the th ickn ess



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38 WOODWORK JOINTS.of tenon . f this is always done the work willcome together much better a:nd easier and mistakes are less liable to be made. t is not alwayspossible to arrange matters in this way; but as arule it can be done and in such c a ~ e s it alwaysshould be so.Another important point to remember is if amoulding of any kind is worked on framing itshould be on the face side or edge so that there

FiG. 49.

will be no difficulty in making it intersect; and ifboth sides or edges are moulded or even rebatedthe stuff should be gauged to width .or thicknessor both if necessary. f this is not done it isimpossible to make the joints fit and this is oftenthe reason why bad work is turned out. No timeis saved in omitting the gauging to width as whatis gained in that way is usually thrown away inbotching up the joints in the endeavor to makethem fit which is then an impossibility.

MORTISE AND TENON JOINTS. 39When a bead or moulding is worked on framingof any kind do not take the size for granted as a

quarter inch bead often works to five-sixteenthsinch and so on with other sizes. The correct wayis to work the bead or moulding as the case maybe on a waste piece of wood and then measurecorrectly and set out accordingly; the shoulderwill then come up properly.Fig. 48 illustrates a plain mitred mortise andtenon joint.

01:i

FIG. 50.

Fig . shows a mitred secret mortise and ten; Djoint.Fig. 50 .gives two views of an angle lap jointhalf mortIsed two ways and secured with twopins. It requires a little extra attention in fit.

ting but makes a good strong holding joint.All mitres should be made by the aid of a tem- .plate the ends of which are cut to an angle of45 degrees. A brass one is the best but wood willanswer the purpose.



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40 WOODWORK ]OIN''l 'S .There aremanymore shapes of tenon Icould. glve,butI haveshownenoughto giv eone the correct id eas to fol low, so th at a httle thought should enao'lemyread.ers tomakeandcorrec tl y anyform of tri s jointthey maycome mcon tac t with .

\. ,."

1

CHAPTERH, LA''' JOINTS.

Inthep resen tchapterI .ambringin g mya serie s of joints of an en ti re ly :n :lt u refrom th osealready desc ri bed, althugp.theyareusedforasim il arpurp6se,viz ;, jOinin;gti'm bersatvariousangles. ,Thesemethodsof Jo in tipg aremuchm'ore sim ple than tho se in volv ingandtenon . Theyrequire less care linsettingou t,less skillinwbrkmanship , and a assort -mentof toolsto carrythemoutsuccessf ully , and ,as maybeimagin ed , from a constructive pointofview , the resu lt is no t qu ite so satisfactory . ;Nevert hele ss, la p jointsa re veryuse ful in 'cer ta in 'kinds of work , especially where cheapness is a 'consid erati on . .In Fig. 51, herew ith , is shown two pieces ofscantl ing jo ined to a third atone A) at the ex. treme end , the ot'her one B)away from the end s: .In Fig. thepiece C, withthe,n o tches cut ready,toreceive the" lap s" on A andB. In se tt ing out lap jointstheno tchesmustbesquaredacr ossattherequired d istance, and the deptp . marked with il 'gauge,whic h shou ld as nearly beset tohalf the .th ickness of the timb.er. All gaugin g should41 .' .



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44 WOODWORKJOINTS.h . F'g 56 andunlessth isscan tling .is sup- ownn 1 , . ported ind ependen tly , as in ground floor JOist,th is method is a faulty one. A bette r p lan ,

FIG. 55.

F IG .5S FIG. 59.

1FIG.56. FIG. 57 '

whichhas the sam eappearancewhenfinish ed , . sto'notchthenar row piec e, as in Fig. 57, anda double lapontheotherscantling , as shown

LAP ]OIN 'I 'S . . 45Fig . 58. Th is gives strengthtotheonewithoutweaken ingthe . The notchinFig. 57issometim es used fo r flu sh fram ing , the lap beingas in.F ig : 59. This is caHe


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46 WOODWORK JOINTS.shape of notch is indicated at (Fig. 61), andthe corresponding lap in Fig. 63. In setting outboth of the foregoing joints, the laps should becut first, and then laid on to the timber to benotched, in their proper positions. The shape ofthe dovetail is then marked, and the notches cut,a tight fit being ensured by sawing a trifle insidethe marks.Although I have shown the haunched lap (/)in a finished state, some spare wood. must, in all

FIG. 62. FIG. 64. FIG. 63.

cases, be left on at the end of the notched pieceuntil the joint is fixed together. Otherwise thehaunching P will stand a good chance of beingsplit when driving in the lap. The joint has thesame appearance as the nQgging H), but it

is made far different. t is called a ship lap,and the notch is shown at 0 (Fig. 61), the lapbeing at Fig. 64 The method of setting out isobvious. The occasions in which this joint shouldbe used are few, as, owing to the wedged shapeof the lap, there is a tendency when fixing to

LAP JOINTS. 47drive the lapped -timber off the shoulders. Therefore, this joint should only be used when framing-inscantlings at right angles between two others,and even then only when the latter are firmly fixed,so that it is impossible to drive them apart. Anexample for which ship lap joints are suitableis when the sides of a farm building have to beboarded uprightly, and when two or more railshave to be fixed to the existing posts to receivethe board. These rails can better be fixed by

FIG 65

ship lapping than by any other method, asthe posts will be found unyielding.In Figs. 65-66 is shown another method bywhich the ends of timbers are firmly attached to

beams or wall-plates on which they rest. Theupper surfaces are shown as cut for the receptionof an upper timber to further bind them together.This method though a little more complicated, hasthe advantages of bracing and holding togethereach timber, more firmly than . in Fig. 60.

Fig. 67 shows scantlings framed together diag-



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p WOODWORK JOINTS.works, being still more weakened by the cuttingaway of the pieces at the sides.Fig. 74 shows the method of halving when the

FIG. 71. FIG. 72.timbers cross each other at any angle, and Fig. 75is a separate view of one of the parts. .

FIG. 73.Fig. 76 is a method by which one timber is

notched on to another. This is it good joint forthe upper timber holdes as it were by a hook,

LAP JOINrs. 5which acts against a s h ~ u d e r in the lower. Theupper timber is thus pt.evented from being drawninward by weight placed upon it, and the lower

FIG. 74. FIG. 75.

is strengthened against any pressure which mighttend to force it outward.The joints which I have shown, so far, in this

FIG. 76.

series, have nearly all applied to carpenter s workonly. In ~ next chapter I propose to change,and deal WIth dovet ail joints, so that those who



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52 W JOINTS.. d t d to)'oiner's ,workmaY by t4 ese are eva . " . ' "

. . 1. But 1 shall revert la ter,on to omtsexampes. , . . . h . ber.more especially for carpenters:WhlC , m num ,a re not by anymeansyet exnaus te d .

,\ . '

j/

. '

.

CHAPTERIll .DOVET AIL JOINTS.

I supposeitis needless for m e todesc ribewhata doveta il joint is like. They are seen, in oneform or another , so f requen tl y by everypersonthat they are univ ersally recognized; but owingprobablytotheveryfam ilia r form ,which.no doubtin some respects breeds contempt, doveta ili ng ina greatmany cases proves a p itf a llfo r theama-teu r , ando ften forthebuddingprqfessional jo ine r.There is, however, no piece ofworkinthe: tradewhich is sim plerwhen it is .setabout intherightway.A doveta i l jo in t, if madeproperly , requir es nonail s to ho ld it togethe r, or to bring the partsdown to a proper jo int;but in o rde r to atta in

perfection therea re oneor twopoin ts whichmustbe attended towhen making th is k ind of jo in t.F irst , the stuffmustbe faced upproperly , usingthe trying plane on the fla t surface. Inpassin gI will just men tion that in doveta ili ng , whetherboxes, drawers , 'or whatever is ' be ing m ade , thefac e sid e is always the in s id e and the face edge is thebottomedge.Another po in t which is o fte n neglecte d is to utin plenty of pins or doveta ils . A very

5



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54 woopwo:u< J ) I 0:TS .gqod for o d ~ D , a : r rvOIl(. il s,o: t .yQQd is to

p a G ~ tlwm not less t h ~ n . } in or m O [ f ~ t h ~ n2t in. from centre to centre; for hard wood, or forsmall work in thiB. wood, they should be spacedcloser still.In setting out the pins, or rather the mortisesin which the pins have to fit, a half dovetail shouldbe placed at both top and :'ottom, as shown in

FIG. 77.

Fig. 77, and the intermediate tails should bebrought to an extreme point, as shown at inthe drawings-that is, if neatness is an object;but if this has to give way to strength, thentails of the shape shown at C (Fig. 78) shouldbe used.The bevels of the tails should be as shownin the drawings, and in no case should they 'be

DOVETAIL JOINTS .shaped as at 'D (Fig. 78) , I f done in this way,there is great danger of the sides sp1ittirtg off atE and although thi's shape at first sight would appear to be s t t b n g than the other, . it is really. .

0 D B B d e FIG 78

not so in practice. Also i f one, two, or three, oreven more artiCles of the same size are being made,the dovetails need oi ly be set out on one piece.The whole should : l e n be placed together in

FIG. 79.palrs, as in Fig. 79, and the marks squared over,then screwed in the vice together, and all cut atonce with a finely set tenon saw, first of all sawingall the pieces off to exactly the same l c n ,



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56'To ;m:ark th e ' piris, scfew One of theen&f{siip

posihg"thosealready 'cut ' tobe 'tlle 'sides)upnghtin' b e r r c h vice,\vith the ,top end 'about half aniiich above , heberrch top, as F ' (Fig. '80) ; takingcare to keep the f


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58 WOODWORK JOINTSthan at the point, which is a good fau1t--thereis no fear of splitting, and unless overdone, a goodfitting joint will result. is cut out of parallel,which is the worst fault of all and must on noaccoun be done., All the pins being cut, the spare wood must becut out, using very thin sharp chisels. Someworkers use a bow saw to remove the spare woodbetween the pins, but I do not consider itadvantage the chisel has to be used after, andit is quicker to remove all the wood with thechisel at one time.

FlO. 81.I must not forget to emphasize -the tact that itis necessary in setting out to use knife or chiselfor all cross lines, both on the sides and ends.Pencil will not do at a1\, i good work is expected.Before putting together, each pin u ~ t be slightlypointed on all three sides, as shown in Fig. 82, so

that they w ll enter freely, without bruising thewood.When putting together, the pins should be wellglued, and the sides driven oi). at once, using a

DOVETAIL JOINTS . 59block which is long e n o u ~ h to reach quite across,as 0 in Fig. 83; if this is omitted, splitting is aptto result. I have not referred to any fitting together, as I do not consider it necessary, becausewhen dovetails and pins are cut properly, they

FIG

will be found to go together without any preliminary fitting; at least, this has always been myexperience.In Fig. 84 is shown a side view of dovetailing, which is familiar to all as being used in

making drawers. The method is the same asthat described already as regards the sides, butthe ends of the front are gauged on a certaindistance, which should, if possible, be the same asthe thicktfess of the sides, and the dovetails are



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GO WOODWORK JOINTS.stopped- at ' the< gauge ' mark. The method ' ofmarking is the sariie M befbn3, and the -only d i f ~ference:is-in 'cutting :thepin;v.ihich has to be done

,- FIG. 84. ' ',largely with the chisel, as the saw can ()Illy beused to start fhem w i t h ~

ThEr p e a : ~ a n c e o f the pins when cut is s h o ~ n

, FIG: 86i

in Fig. 85; and those :wllo 'can :0.0 the ordinarydovetailing wi1l :have rio difficulty In: tnakirig itilelap j dovetaiL '

01In Fig; 86 -is' showrlwhat 'is sometimes callcdsecret,' btit ' t s really double lap-dovetailing.

One part is done as shown in the 'figure, makingthe mortises the same size as t h e p i ~ s ~ -and cutting

FIG. 88. . FIG 87.them ,as shown. The corresponding ,member is

~ o r k e d as in Fig. 85, the necessary marking b ~ i n gdone by placing -the one on the other; d e s c r i b ~ din Fig. 80, and m ~ i n round with a marking. ...... .. --

\.

[FIG. 89. -FIG. 90.point, then cutting them out with saw and chisel.The side appearance ' of this when done is shownin Fig. 87, ahd the top edges show as Fig. ' 88,and as will ' be readily ,uilderstood,verY' careful



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CHAPTER IV." GLUE JOINTS.

In the present chapter I intend to show how tomake what are, in technical phraseology, called" glue joints; that is, they are used in makingup a-wide board from two or more narrow ones.t is often stated that a properly made glue

joint is stronger than the :wood itself, and this is,to a certain extent, quite tr ue ; but to make it so,the joint must be a good one, and the two piecesof wood must be in contact at every point, sothat practically no glue whatever is left in it ,except what is forced into th e pores of the wood.f such a joint as this be broken forcibly, it will

be found that the wood is torn in many places,instead of the two boards coming apart intact,thus proving that the glue really is stronger thanthe wood itself.

There is no doubt that the jointing up of boardsis the weak point of all amateur, and also of agood proportion of professional worJe Failure isvery often due to the bad order in whi h planesare' kept; in many cases it is simply carelessness,and to the mistaken idea t h a t the glue willfill up where the wood does not touch. This

64

.. GLUE " . .JOINTS , : 65must' be dispelled -at once,as good joints canrtotpossibly be made while this opinion is entertained.

Glue joiflts are of va-rious kinds, according tothe job in hand. Thl s, in Fig. 95 are shownthe square joint A, th e mat ched join1 B and thetongued joint C. The :first is sufficien{ for mostcommon work, such as shelves, etc: ; -and as thefirst stage of Band C is identicai with A I willdescribe the latter at length.

Boards up to three-quarters of an inch thickare usually jointed on the shooting board, thisbeing the more convenient method, and they

cFIG. 95.

.. are bound to come upright is an expressionoften heard and seen in print; consequently, whenone tries his hand, and finds that the two boardsdo not come upright, he loses faith in his instruction, whether verbal or printed. Now, if theplane is quite true, as well as the shooting board,it will be all right; but this is very seldom thecase. f in jointing, one board is laid on .theshooting board face upwards, and the other facedownwards, they will come right. This is shownclearly in Fig. 96, where D shows the two boardsplaned as they should be, one face up and theother. face down, while E S:lO W S th e effect when



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WOODWORK JOINTSoth are planed face ~ t p w a r d s Fig. 97 shows

the position of the board to be jointed F), andthe plane, as in the act of jointing G), on the shoot

~ n g board H).When jointing thicker boards than mentioned

above, ~ e y must be fixed in the bench vice at a convenient height, so that the plane can be handledeasily, and be kept well under control. usualmethod is to plane one edge straight and square

f i t s t an(i then plane the other until it fits closelyon it. This way cannot be improved upon; butto be completely successful, the first board must

FIG. 96. FIG. 97be made quite square and straight. And however easily this may be accomplished, by the experienced joiner, it is by no means a simple matterfor the tyro and therefore it is excusable for thelatter to make use of square and straight-edgeuntil he is able to do without them.

The trying plane must be set very fine forjointing and the iron should be sharpened as nearstraight across as possible, only just round, soas to prevent the corners from projecting. Thedifficulty as a rule is to sharpen so that it is nottoo round; there is no fear of getting it to:) straight

GLUE JOINT3. 67across. Now, supposing the edge of the boardto be jointed is square across but not straightthen the high parts must be removed by theplane in the position on the board indicated inFig. 98, when a shaving of para1lel thicknesswill be removed, so as to alter the edge in relationto the length of the board only. On the otherhand supposing that on trying the two boardstogether, the joint fits closely, but the top boardleans over towards you, thus showing that the

FIG. 100. FIG. 98. FIG .99.bottom board requires more taking off at the back.To do this, a shaving should be taken off for thewhole length of the board ,with the plane in theposition shown in Fig. 99. When required offthe front, the plane should be used as in Fig. 100.It is quite easy to guide the plane in any of thesepositIons by means of the fingers of the left handwhich slide along the face of the board under theplane.

f the joint is twisting (or winding), then commence. the shaving at the back end, with th e -plane



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72 WOODWORK JOINTS.for tongued joints, as, i not made parallel withthe sides of the boards, the result is as shown inFig. lOS-the joint refuses to come together atone side, owing to the tongue being bound by theimperfectly made groove.

FIG. 109.

FIG. 110. FIG 111.When three or more boards have to be glued

up at one time, the steel cramp shown in Fig. 109is a very handy appliance; it pulls joints tightlytogether, and holds them stiify. The method ofusing is shown in Fig. 110 at L The clampshown in use in the same figure is also useful, es-

GLUE JOINTS.pecially when glueing up long, narrow boards,which have a tendency to spring or twist.

After glueing up, the boards should be stoodcarefully on edge in a slanting direction, as inFig. 111, placing one or more strips of wood between them, according to the length. In thefigure the shaded I=ortions represent the jointedboards, and the open portions the strips betweenthem.

Insteadof tongues, dowels are sometimes used

FIG. 112.to strengthen lue joints, and a very good jobthey make. The joints are first made in the usualway, .and the boards are then laid on top of eachother, the position of the dowels being squareddown across the edges 'and also squared acrossand down on the opposite edges, so that all willintersect. Gauge marks are then made on theedges of each board, crossing the squared acrossmarks, as shown in Fig. 112, and the dowel holf'sare bored at the point where the two marks cross.



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74 WOODWORK JOINTS.The dowels should be placed 6 or 8 inches apart,according t the strength required.

Eech ' hole should be slightly countersunk, asshown in Fig. 113 anp"in section in Fig. 114. Dowelrods of birch should be cut off to the lengthwanted (from, two to two and a half inches) andthe ends pointei}, as in Fig. 117.

The diaI 1eterof the dowel is (as the thicknessof tongues) regulated by the thickness of woodin use. Neither should exceed one third of thefinished thickness; thus for one inch boards

FIG. 113. FIG. 114.

(finishing seven-eighths) 0l1e-quarter inch shouldbe used, and so on in proportion.' Dowelled joints cannqt ;be rubbed together, butmust be tightly cram ied , up after glueing; thedowels must be well g l u ~ d a s well as the joints.Fig. 115 shows the' two prepared halves of adrawing board, l a ~ o n top of each other and mortised for three t 6 n ~ u ~ s . The ' figure shows only acentre ' cross gauge mark for each mortise but thereshould be three marks for each mortise (centreand width). In addition to these three marks

" GLUE JOINTS. 75a gauge line should be made in the centre of theedge of each board from end to end. Fit thetongues and glue up, placing the board in clampsto dry. When thoroughly dry, the ends of the

FIG. 115.

board should be marked out and cut, as in Fig. 2 B.The two cross pieces grooved to the proper widthand . depth with a matching plane, and fitted.

\.':'

FIG. 116.Glue up and place in clamps to dry . The finishedbo.ard is shown in Fig. 116.

In ' sqme cases double tonguing is resorted to(see Fig. 118). t is suitable for very thick wood,



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76 WOODWORK JOINTS.being stronger than one thick tongue. The pro-cedure is the same as before described, but it isnecessary to plough both grooves from the sameside of the board or if owing to the possession

FIG. 120.

FIG. 119. FIG. 118. FIG. 117.of a match plane only, this is not practicable, theboards must be gauged accurately, to the samethickness, or the result will be (as shown in sec-tion in Fig. 119) the grooves riot coming together

GLUE JOINTS. 77will make it impossible for the joint to comeup when the tongues are inserted, however goodit may be before.

In Fig. 120 is shown an angle joint dowelled


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80 WOODWORK JOINTS.pieces apart endways, which it does effectuallywhen firmly nailed together, and the weight of aroof is upon it. Failing this, it is very little, ifiny, stronger than Fig. 126.

In Fig. 128 we have the ordinary splay joint

FIG. 127.which is used for splicing purlins, etc.; also inrepairs, such as door-posts, etc.; where, on accountof the frame being in position, the splay is theeasiest joint to make. This joint is fairly strongwhen used in suitable positions, such as t hose mentioned; but must not be used where it will be

F I ~ 128.subject to great stress or strain either verticallyor horizontally, or it will give way.One of the most useful joints found in carpentryis that shown in Fig. 129, one only of the partsbeing shown in Fig. 130. Both pieces are exactly

SCARFING JOINTS . 81alike, each having both a mortise and tenon, andit is fixed together by draw boring. This jointcannot be used on timber less than 4 in. in thickness,but is suitable for any sizes above this. The complete joint must not be less than 18 inches long

from end to end, and for stout timber t canwith advantage be made much longer than this. tis sometimes made so that the tenons are vertical,and at others so that they lie horizontal w h ~ m

FIG 130.fixed. Which is most suitable must be decided bycircumstances; but the width of the tenons shouldalways run the narrow way of the wood-thus ifthe latter is placed edgeways the tenons will behorizontal, and if fiatways they should be vertical.



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82 WOODWORK JOINTS .A variation of the above joint is given in Fig.131; the only difference in the two is the lug Awhich is left on the one piece, as in Fig . 132, acorresponding recess bein ma de in th e otherpiece for the lug to fit into. t will be noticed in

FIG. 131Fig. 131 that the recess is made longer than thelug. This is done to admit of a pair of foldingwedges being used to tighten up the joint edgeways, as at B These wedges assist the pins,

FIG. 132.both in tiglitening up the joint and holding itin position when finished.

Both of the foregoing joints are extensively us dto splice timbers which are supported at intervalsonly, such as open-fronted farm buildings, or workshops with open stores under etc.

SCARFING JOINTS . 83Figs. 133 and 134 are simple methods for length-ening timbers, such as wall plates r joists whe.l

supported by columns or walls.

FIG. 133. FIG. 134..Fig. 135 is slightly different, the joint being heldfirmly together by the square hardwood pin whichshould fit tight when driven in.

FIG. 135.Fig. 136 shows another form of joint for the samepurpose. The points given to the corresponding

ends of the two joists are to resist lateral pressure.

FIG. 136.This joint is also tightened up by driving in asquare hardwood pin.

Fig. 137 is another method of lengthening awall plate, making a joint that will not pull out.



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.

84 WOODWORK JOINTS.Figs. 138 and 139 are joints more suitable for

heavy timbers. The joints being secured withlong iron bolts and nuts.Fig. 140 is a joint effested by a tenon in the onepart fitting into a mortise of similar width in the

FIG. 137.other. This is considered a very good joint whenthe beam so joined is supported by a columnunderneath the joint. In such case it rriaY -beplaced on its narrow side, so t4at the width oft ~ t o n g u e verticaL The P QiJl.t.eq part

FIG. 138. I . 139.

then strengthens the beam against lateral strain.This method too, is found very effective whenused vertically, there being no possibility of theparts slipping over each other. In this case thesally at the end must be formed by a very obtuseangle, and the edge of the points, and of the parts

SCARFING JOINTS. 85which receive them must be worked very trueo r t h r ~ will be a chance of the wood being l i ~by vertIcal pressure. As an additional safeguardtwo bolts and nu.ts are used.

Fig. 141 shows two pieces of timber butt-j ointedand keyed together while one part of th e jointmade r e ~ y fqr fitting is given in Fig. 142, andthe key IS shown in Fig. 143,. This should beused for l r g ~ timbers only, where they are subject to a stretchmg stress. . They will, to a certainextent withstand side strain but are liable to

/ ~ o 0 ,FIG. 140.

give way sooner or la ter, u it. It will be~ o t i c e ~ that the h ~ d s of key fit loosely endwaysm theIr mortises,; this gives room for wedges atE which draw the joint up very tightly endways,a.nd also allow it to be tightened up again at anytime.

Fig. 144 shows how to splice an Upright post.It is, of course, likely to be useful in repairs morethan in new work; but th e writer has used it inthe latter on some occasior:.s with success. t canonly be put together by driving one part on theother sideways, and is fixed with pins



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86 WOODWORKJOINTS.The jointshown in sec ti on inFig. 145 be

qu ite unknow n tomany ca rpenters ; but is . avery fam il ia r one to th ose whose work hes mrural district s andwho are used to farm andestate work . is the top end of a teazlepost such as is u sed to support the p la te s in

open-fron ted buil dings. It is tenoned intoG andalso intothet ie H one tenon

atright an gle s tothe o th er as sh own.tinctlyinF ig. 146. This is ra ther. a .t ick l: sh Jobfor a novice; butwhen once the prmclp le is mastered it will be pla in en ough to unders tand .

FIG .142. FIG. 143.

Briefly speaking the shoulders of thelongertenonI mustbetheth ic knessof the plateG longer thanthose of the tenonK less the depthwhic h thetieen te rs theplate . This brings us toFig. 147

hic h shows thedoveta il in theplatetore ce iv e~ e tie ; whi le Fig. 148 show s theti e cut tofit in

SCARFING JO INTS . 8the doveta il . This lat ter is ca ll ed a corkingjo in t andis se t outthesame as anyotherdovetail; that is thet ie is first cutto shape-shownin Fig . 148-th en la id on in posi ti on and theplatemarkedtorec eive i t.

FIG. 145. FIG. 147.

FIG. 144. FIG. 146 . FIG. 148.W hen thet ie is corked intothep late and

the latter-as well as the tie-t ig htl ypin ned to th e teazle post we have one of thes tronges tjointswhic h can be found in thetrade.



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88 WOODWOR K JO I NTS .

FIG. 149.

FIG. 150 FIG. 151.

. .. FIG. 152.

Flo; 153.t tFIG. 154.

FIG. 155.

SCARFING JOINTS. . 89Fig. 149 shows a th ree step scarfing joint bored,to be secured with 4 iron bolts.Figs. 150 and 151 are simple scarfing joints se-cured with one bolt.

FLO i56.Fig. 152 shows another form of scarfing jointsecured w i t two bolts.Fig. 153, scarfing joint with three bolts.

FIG. 157.Fig. 154, scarfing joint with eigqt bolts .Fig. 155, scarfing joint with two bolts and two

straps.

FIG. 158. FLO . 150Figs. 156 to 161 show the joints used in .theconstruction t water-tight bulkheads, cassions,

and cofferdams. For deep excavations, the laying



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90 WOODWORKJOINTS.of fou tJ-dations for brid gepiersandsu ch likew here watertightjo in ts are necessary.

Inse t t in g outsuch as thefore go in g, oranyothe rs,w hen thetimberis used dir ec t from

FIG, 160.

FIG. 162.

the saw , it is not conven ien t to use the gaugefo r the th ic kness of m ortis es and te nons. Abetterplanis touse their o nor' s te el square , asshow nin Fig . 162, as theline s aremuchstrai'ghterthana gaugeline onro ug h, ti m ber--. :c onsequentl y, '

SCARFINGJOINTS. 9Jthejo intsfit better. Thesq ua red across lines Cin F ig . 16 2 show these tt in g-ou t of the m ortis esandte non s in 12 9and131andthelin essh ow the th ic kness of sam e. Thew id e part of

, thesq ua re bein gusedin thefig ure , giv es thewidthofthetimber atsix inches; if thelatte r wer e fo urin ches only,'the armof s'qua're w ould havetobeused. W hile if thetimberw ere 'five- in ch es,a 'I i- in. sq u a rew ould be suitab le ;or theshou ld ercould bemade one in ch only, the ten o ns bein gI inches.

/ ,



47/53

CHAPTER VICIRCULAR WORK.

We propose in the present chapter to deal with .circular work of various kinds, 'and as this often ,forms a puzzle for both. amateur and professional. ;

FIG. 163.we trust that the information given will prcweuseful to both.In Fig. 163 is shown a circular frame made upin two thicknesses, the segments be.ing screwed

92

CIRCULAR ; WORK. - 93to each other and the joints crossed in the twolayers. This is a very strong method, and hasbeen used by the writer for making circular framesand curbs from two feet to 30 feet in diameter,and from one inch to four inches finished thickness. t is thus applicable for a great varieJ;y ofwork.

The segments can be either short or long, theonly important condition b/eing that they mustbe struck to the proper radius, and cut out truly.

164.

Each will then fi nd its own position, as it is screwedto its fellow{ until the whole circle is complete.Fig. 164 shows a board marked out into segmentsfor this kind of work. The longer the ' o ~ r d s arethe better they will cut up, as it gives more opportunities of cutting one out of the other, as at AFig. 165 shows one of the segments cut out,and Fig, 166 shows how to begin to put the circletogether. To continue this, fit another. segment.to Band C, and screw them D and E r e s p e c tively , ,Then ' turn the whole over, and fit th e>



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9 WOODWORK JOINTS.next two segments to the ends and G screwingthem again and so on until the circle is finished;when if the segments have been cut out truly,and kept level with each other in screwing them

. ~-..::=.::::=:---- ---.

FIG. 165.

together the circle will be as true as though struckout and cut in one piece.

When screwing the segments together do notforget the old maxim, fasten the ends securelyand the middle will .not move far away. That

FIG. 166.

is keep the screws near the ends of each segmentand the space between will take care of itself.Whereas i the ends are not screwed the wood isapt to curl up and spoil the work.

-CIRCULAR WORK. 95

Fig. 167 shows a circular rim . or curb made. upof segments halved together. This method issuitable for heavy work where the timbers areof considerable size no matter if the circle is smallor large. The method of building up the circleis somewhat similar to the former one; the halv:-

FIG. 167.

ings are cut on the ends of the segments to anyshape or bevel each one being marked so as tofit its fellow thus making no waste wood. Thehalvings should be screwed together from both. sides and the result is a strong curb althoughnot so strong as Fig. 163 owing to the grain ofthe wood not being crossed in so many places.



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98 WOODWORK JOINTS.In Fig. 173 we have another method of building

up the circular head of a door frame. This isdone in three th icknesses, which are arranged tosuit the rebate, square, and moulding respectively,as in section Fig. 174. The method of fixingtogether is the same as for the circle in Fig. 163in segments, the grain crossing in each case.

The joints K run up straight, so that the twooutside segments fix to them at the springing;but as the end of the middle segIll:ent would runoff to a feather edge if the joints ran up the fullthickness, they should be cut back as in Fig. 175,thus allowing: a good thickness at the springing.

FIG. 172.One disadvantage of this method of forming acircular head is the necessity of the screw heads

showing, otherwise it is a stronger and easiermethod than the former one ; thus this should betaken into consideration when deciding uponwhich method to adopt.Fig. 176 is, a small circular head formed iri segments, mortised and tenoned together, and fixedby , draw-boring. The mortises are of courseslotted, and this method is only admissible insmall work-that is, when the radius of the circleis small. The larger the timber is in section, the

CIRCULAR WORK. 99~ t r o g e r the ~ o r k . A variatiori of ~ h i s las,t methodto . dovetaIl the segments together, instead of.mortIse and tenon; but this requires' carefui work

. F IG. 173.to get a fit, and theJ.e i . i i r e ~ r of splittingoff the 'corners. /_ . - ' , :- '

177. the f ~ ~ i r c ; ; : r ~ e a d door,bull tup ,In' th ree ,.thicknesses ' of a r ~ l in seg- : , . , .

.. ., .

' FIG. 174.ment s; the middle board, of ~ h e th ree .is keptna rr?w, to form the groove f or ihe pane1 '(see dotted hne) also in section> ) 78 . .',

, , : '

; . . , ..



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100 WOODWORK JOINTSThe top inside segment is cut a.way to form amortise for the door mounting and the stiles can be

run up in a similar manner to those in Fig. 173,to fix the outside segments to, or the 1atter canbe ha1ved on to the stiles below the springing.This method of forming a Circular head paneldoor is open to the same objection as the framein Fig. 173, that is, screws are necessary for

FICl 116. FIG. 175.fixing it tdgether j otherwise it is a very convenientand ready method. _

f the screws ,are objected to in this connection,door heads can be put together in the same way asthe frame head in Fig. 169, using thin keys, anddispensing with the dowels, which ~ i l l not be re-\ lired, as the keys can be allowed to go through.[ preferred, dovetail keys can be used instead

CIRCULAR W O:l.K. 10]of those shown but if they are, do not makethem too tight, or the sides of the door will besplit, and all ho iding power will be d ~ s t r o y e dWe think that enough has now been describedin connection with joints to enable anyone to

FIG. 177. FIG. 178.know how to proceed in any branch he wishes,althdugh the subject S not exhausted. t would,however, be somewhat compiicated to carry itfurther, and probably not of general interest.



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L E ~ TO DO TH INGS ,Model Library SeriesOFCOPYRIGHTEDBOOKS1. TheStudy' ofElectricityforBeginners., 2 DryBatteries,HowtoMakt them.3 ElectricalCircuitsandDiagrams,Part1.4. ElectricBells,AnnunciatorsandAlarn::s.5 ModernPrimaryBatteries.6 ExperimentingwithInductionCoils.7. .ElectricGas IgnitingApparatus.8 Small .Accumulators,HowtoMakeandUse9. ModelSteamEngineDesign.10. PracticalElectrics.11 Inventions,HowtoProtect-andSellthem.12. WoodworkJoints,HowtoMake andUse.13. TheFireman'sGuidetotheCareofBoilers14. TheSlideValveSimplyEXplained.15. TheMagnetoTelephone. .16. TheCorlissEngine andItsManagement.17. MakingVvirelessOutfits.18. WirelessTelephone Construction,19 . TheWimshurstMachine,HowtC MakeIt.20. SimpleExperimentsinStaticElec.tricity.21 Small' ElectricalMeasuringInstruments.22 ElectricalCircuitsandDiagrams,Part2 23 Inductio.n Coils,HowtoMakeThem,24 ModelVaudevilleTheatres, ,25 Alte,rnatingCurrents , SimplyExplained.

26. HowtO ,Builda 20 footBi-planeGlider.27 ABC oftheSteamEngine.28. SimpleSoldering.HardandSoft.29 TelegraphyforBeginners.30 . LowVoltage LightingwithStorageBatteries33 HouseWiringforElectricLight.34 . MagnetsandMagnetism.36 . SmailWindmillsandHowtoMakeThem,37. Collin'sWirelessPlans,Part1 . 38. Collin'sWirelessPlans,Part2 . 31. LieckfieldGasandOil Engines.

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Woodwork Joints 1917

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