18  NATIVE PEOPLES

» SPIRIT OF THE HARVEST | Food

WHEN THE PEOPLE OF THE ONEIDA

NATION of Wisconsin decided to modernize their community cannery where heirloom crops like Oneida white flint corn and other seasonal foods are processed and preserved, they applied for a grant from the First Nations Development Institute, located in Longmont, Colorado.

First Nations is one of the oldest and larg-est philanthropic organizations dedicated to improving the lives of Native Americans. It is also, according to First Nations President Mike Roberts, “a well-kept secret even among people in Indian Country.” The organiza-tion’s Native Agriculture and Food Systems Initiative works with tribes to strengthen food systems in their communities, improve health and nutrition, and build food security and eco-nomic prosperity.

NAFSI has helped fund projects of Tsyunhehkwa (Life Sustenance), the Oneida Tribe’s agricultural program, including the purchase of large modern gas kettles and other cooking equipment for the cannery, financial support for organic tribal gardens, and cooking classes for young people and adults that help preserve and pass on knowledge about the cul-tural and nutritional importance of traditional Oneida foods.

Oneida white flint corn is an ancient and nourishing variety. It can be traced back to the Oneida’s ancestral homeland in what is now New York State. It is grown today on tribal lands in upstate New York; at the Oneida Nation of Wisconsin, near Green Bay; and at the Oneida Nation of the Thames, Ontario, Canada. White flint ears have eight rows of large kernels instead of the 22 rows found on ears of standard field corn. The corn is high in protein: 18 percent, compared with 5 percent in sweet corn. The Oneida and their sacred corn played an impor-

tant role in the American Revolution. When George Washington’s troops were starving at Valley Forge in the harsh winter of 1777–78, corn supplied by Oneida Chief Shenendoah (a.k.a. Oskanondohna) is credited with help-ing them to survive and continue fighting the British.

From harvest to cooking, white corn is treated with great respect by the Oneida. During the fall harvest in October, the mature ears are picked and husked by hand and braided together before being hung to dry. When dried, the kernels are carefully removed and stored in bins until needed. The kernels are cooked with water and hardwood ash until they puff up and their tough outer skin loosens. After being thoroughly rinsed and picked over, the corn is made into canned corn soup or vacuum-sealed and sold as fresh hulled white corn for cooks who prefer to make their own soup. For corn-bread, the kernels are dehydrated and ground into flour.

Oneida cornbread is really more like a large unfilled tamale or firm polenta. To further boost the nutritional value of the bread, Oneida cooks mix cooked beans into their loaves.

My first attempt at making the bread was not a big success—the center of the loaf was dry and grainy, and the outside seemed too soft. To find out where I’d gone wrong, I called Vickie Cornelius and Tina Roskom at the Oneida community cannery for some expert advice. As they patiently explained, “The secret is to mix the corn flour thoroughly with rapidly boiling water,” as this step begins the cooking process. After the dough is mixed and formed into a round loaf, it is simmered slowly in very gently boiling water so that the dough does not dis-solve. Thanks to their help, my second attempt turned out fine!

Working Together to Preserve Oneida White CornBY BEVERLY COX AND MARTIN JACOBS

Traditional Oneida White CornbreadMAKES 1 LOAF (SERVES 4 TO 6)

Water

2 pairs disposable food-handling gloves   or disposable nitrile multipurpose gloves 

1 package (1 lb.) Oneida white corn flour*

1/2 cup cooked beans (kidney, red or pinto)

Pour 5 quarts of water into a wide-mouthed 6-quart pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Put on 2 pairs of gloves to protect your hands when mixing the hot corn dough. Place corn flour in a large mixing bowl. In a separate saucepan, bring 2 1/4 cups of water to a rolling boil. Gradu-ally pour 1 1/2 cups of that boiling water into the corn flour and mix with your gloved hands until well combined. If the mixture seems dry, add additional boiling water and knead until the dough has the consistency of soft clay. Gently knead in the beans, making sure not to crush them. Dip your hands into cold water and form the dough into a ball, then flatten and smooth it into a disk between 5 and 6 inches in diameter and 1 1/2 to 2 inches thick.

Using a large pancake turner or paddle, gently slide the loaf into the simmering water. Cook at a gentle boil (over medium to low heat) for 30 to 40 minutes until the loaf rises to the top. Watch and adjust the heat so water doesn’t reach a rolling boil. Carefully remove loaf and transfer to a drying rack. Slice warm loaf crosswise and serve with butter and either salt and pepper or honey. A favorite Oneida way to serve leftover corn-bread is to fry the slices as suggested in the recipe that follows.

Fried Oneida Cornbread with Bacon, Butter and Maple SyrupSERVES 4 TO 6

12 slices lean bacon

3 to 4 tablespoons butter

1 loaf Traditional Oneida White Cornbread,   sliced about 1/2-inch thick

Maple syrup

In a large nonstick skillet or well-seasoned iron skillet, cook bacon over low heat until crisp. Remove and drain on paper towels. Discard all but a thin film of the bacon grease from skillet. Add 2 tablespoons of butter to pan and place over medium heat. When butter melts and turns clear, add cornbread slices and fry for 1 to 2 minutes per side, until golden. Serve with remaining butter, maple syrup and a side of crisp bacon.

* Though you will not find it at your local market, Oneida white corn flour may be ordered from Raeanne Skenandore at the tribe’s retail store (920/497-5821). The store is open Monday to Friday, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Central time.