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Working With Chemical Peels
Professional Skin CareProfessional Skin Care
andand
The American Institute of EstheticsThe American Institute of Esthetics
PresentsPresents
Working With Chemical PeelsWorking With Chemical Peels
Professional Skin CareProfessional Skin Care
andand
The American Institute of EstheticsThe American Institute of Esthetics
PresentsPresents
Working With Chemical PeelsWorking With Chemical Peels
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Working With Chemical Peels
CLASS QUIZ & CERTIFICATE CLASS QUIZ & CERTIFICATE
At the End of this Class You will be redirected to a short quizAt the End of this Class You will be redirected to a short quiz
A Certificate of Completion A Certificate of Completion
Will Be Awarded If a Passing Grade is Achieved Will Be Awarded If a Passing Grade is Achieved
To be eligible to take this quiz & receive your certificate, To be eligible to take this quiz & receive your certificate, you will need:you will need:
Your Esthetic License Number Your Esthetic License Number
State and Date of Issue State and Date of Issue
Your ONLY YOURx Customer NumberYour ONLY YOURx Customer Number
Your Email AddressYour Email Address
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Working With Chemical Peels
CLASS OUTLINECLASS OUTLINE
•• Different Types of Chemical PeelsDifferent Types of Chemical Peels–– How They Work, How TheyHow They Work, How They’’re Classified re Classified
•• Alpha Alpha HydroxyHydroxy Acids Acids –– Glycolic, Salicylic, LacticGlycolic, Salicylic, Lactic
–– Indicated Skin Conditions, Contraindications, Indicated Skin Conditions, Contraindications,
Benefits, Potential Side EffectsBenefits, Potential Side Effects
Class Outline
Different Types of Chemical Peels
– How They Work, Protocol
- How They’re Classified
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
– Glycolic, Salicylic, Lactic
- Indicated Skin Conditions
- Contraindications
- Benefits
- Potential Side Effects
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Working With Chemical Peels
Chemical Peeling Involves Application of a Chemical Solution To Produce Removal of
Outer Layers of the Skin
By “Wounding the Skin”
-- Wounded Skin Stimulates Regeneration Wounded Skin Stimulates Regeneration in the healing processin the healing process
-- Damaged tissue is removedDamaged tissue is removed
-- New tissue is constructedNew tissue is constructed
CHEMICAL PEELS
Chemical Peels – How They Work
Chemical peeling involves the application of a chemical solution to produce removal of the outer layers of the skin by “wounding the skin”
- Wounded Skin Stimulates Regeneration in the healing process
- Damaged tissue is removed
- New tissue is constructed
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Working With Chemical Peels
Depth of Skin Removed Depends On:
1. Type of Acid Used1. Type of Acid Used
2. Strength of Product2. Strength of Product
-- % of Acid% of Acid
-- % of Free Acid Range% of Free Acid Range
-- pH of Acid pH of Acid
3. How Long It Is Left On Skin3. How Long It Is Left On Skin
4. What Condition the Skin is In4. What Condition the Skin is In
CHEMICAL PEELS
Chemical Peels – How They Work
Depth of Skin Removed Depends On:
1. Type of Chemical Used
2. Strength of Product
- % of Acid
- % of Free Acid Range
- pH of Acid
3. How Long It Is Left On Skin
4. What Condition the Skin is In
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Working With Chemical Peels
How Deep They Work On The Skin
1. Superficial Peels – Esthetic Peels
Removes outer layers of skin or epidermal layers
2. Medium Depth Peels – Physician or Supervised
Removes epidermal layers and upper dermal layer
3. Deep Peels – Physician Only
Peeling extends deeper into lower dermal layer
CHEMICAL PEELS
Chemical Peels – How They Are Classified
How Deep They Work On The Skin
1. Superficial Peels – Esthetic Peels
Removes outer layers of skin or epidermal layers only.
2. Medium Depth Peels – Physician or Supervised
Removes epidermal layers and upper dermal layer. Penetrates
papillary dermis, performed under medical supervision.
3. Deep Peels – Physician Only
Peeling extends deeper into lower dermal layer - Penetrates upper to
mid reticular dermis
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Working With Chemical Peels
CHEMICAL PEELS
Depth of Peels
Superficial PeelEsthetician
Stratum Corneum 10u
Granular layer 20u
Spiny layer 25u
Basal layer 60u
Papillary Dermis 150-200u
Mid and DeepPeels
Reticular Dermis
PhysicianLevels
The ‘u’ stands for 1/1000 of a millimeter
Upper 450-600u
Mid 600-800u
LowerBelow 1000u
Chemical Peels – Depth of Peels
This cross-section of the skin shows the depth of peels.
The superficial peels only penetrate into the top layers of the epidermis.
The mid-depth peels penetrate into the upper dermal layer and the deep peels penetrate into the lower dermal layer of the skin.
We will be reviewing only esthetic peels in this class.
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Working With Chemical PeelsALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS
Group of Structurally Related Organic Acids Found
in Natural Sources
•• GlycolicGlycolic
•• LacticLactic
•• MalicMalic
•• TartaricTartaric
•• CitricCitric
Sugar Cane, HoneySugar Cane, Honey
Bilberry, Sour MilkBilberry, Sour Milk
Apples, Sugar MapleApples, Sugar Maple
Wine, Grapes, Passion FruitWine, Grapes, Passion Fruit
Citrus FruitsCitrus Fruits
7878
9090
134134
150150
192192
AcidAcid SourceSource MolecularMolecularWeightWeight
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS
AHAs are a group of structurally related organic acids found in natural sources or synthesized in the laboratory. They are used to promote desquamation (cellular exfoliation), stimulate cellularrenewal and improve the appearance of the skin.
The following are natural sourced AHAs:
Acid Source Molecular Wt
Glycolic Sugar Cane, Honey 78
Lactic Bilberry, Sour Milk 90
Malic Apples, Sugar Maple 134
Tartaric Wine, Grape, Passion Fruit 150
Citric Citrus Fruits 192
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Working With Chemical Peels
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS
•• Efficacy varies with %, pH, free acid rangeEfficacy varies with %, pH, free acid range
-- Diminishes corneocyte cohesionDiminishes corneocyte cohesion
-- Enhances penetration of productsEnhances penetration of products
-- Depending on Strength/pH of Glycolic Acid Depending on Strength/pH of Glycolic Acid --
it can stimulate collagen synthesisit can stimulate collagen synthesis
-- No known systemic toxicityNo known systemic toxicity
-- No down timeNo down time
Glycolic & Lactic are Most Used PeelsGlycolic & Lactic are Most Used Peels
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS
The most widely used alpha hydroxy acids are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Both acids can penetrate skin well and are backed up by numerous clinical studies regarding their effectiveness.
Efficacy varies by the % of the peel, pH and the Free Acid Range
These superficial peels:
• Diminishes corneocyte cohesion
• Enhances penetration of products
• Depending on Strength/pH of Glycolic -can stimulate collagen synthesis
• No known systemic toxicity
• No down time
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Working With Chemical PeelsHOW AHA’S WORK
•• Corneocytes held together by ionic bonding forces of
cellular glue
•• Disrupt ionic bonding between cellular glue & Disrupt ionic bonding between cellular glue & corneocytescorneocytes
•• Dissolve lipid bonds between cellsDissolve lipid bonds between cells
-- Causes cells to Causes cells to ‘‘unglueunglue’’ and shedand shed
AHA’s Diminish Corneocyte Cohesion
•• Penetrates by lipid phase of intercellular cementPenetrates by lipid phase of intercellular cement
HOW AHA’S WORK
Corneocytes are held together by ionic bonding forces of the cellular glue. AHAs disrupt this ionic bonding or ‘corneocyte cohesion’ by dissolving the lipid bonds between the cells at the lower levels of the stratum corneum. This causes the cells to “unglue” and shed. These type of peels do not actually cause the skin to visibly “peel”. Corneocyte cohesion refers to the intercellular cement or "glue-like" bonding between the cells.
AHAs penetrate by using the lipid phase of the intercellular cement as its pathway into the stratum corneum. It helps to visualize the intercellular cement as an emulsion, a mixture of water and oil. AHAsinterfere, or disorganize the lipid (oil) phase of the intercellular cement. As glycolic acid has the lowest molecular weight of all of the AHAS, it penetrates faster.
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Working With Chemical Peels
Measurement of Acidity or Alkalinity
pH SCALE
• Ranges from 0 to 14
• 0 to less than 7 = Acidic
• More than 7 to 14 = Basic or Alkaline
• 7 = Neutral
KO 35KO 35
The lower the number on the The lower the number on the
pH scale, the stronger the peelpH scale, the stronger the peel
Banana PeelBanana Peel
SkinSkin
pH SCALE
The pH scale measures the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. It ranges from 0 to 14. A pH of 7 means it is a neutral solution. Pure water has a pH of 7. A pH of less than 7 means the solution is acidic. A pH of more than 7 means the solution is alkaline. The less pH, the more acidic the solution is. The more pH, the more alkaline the solution is.
The pH scale is logarithmic which means that moving one unit either way on the pH scale results in a 10 fold increase in the degree of alkalinity or acidity.
Each whole pH value below 7 is ten times more acidic than the next higher value. For example, a pH of 4 is ten times more acidic than a pH of 5 and 100 times (10 times 10) more acidic than a pH of 6. The same holds true for pH values above 7, each of which is ten times more alkaline than the next lower whole value. For example, a pH of 10 is ten times more alkaline than a pH of 9.
In regard to peels, the lower the pH number, the stronger, more intense is the peel. This is key in determining the efficacy of an AHA – the pH – more so than the percentage of acid.
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Working With Chemical Peels
•• Sodium HydroxideSodium Hydroxide
•• Ammonium HydroxideAmmonium Hydroxide
NEUTRALIZING
Raises pH of Product
Ingredients commonly used for neutralization:
May reduce amount of free acid in productMay reduce amount of free acid in product
NEUTRALIZING
Neutralization raises the pH of a product. Ingredients commonly used for neutralization include sodium hydroxide and ammonium hydroxide.
Neutralizing reduces the amount of free acid in the product. Free acid refers to the amount of acid actually available.
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Working With Chemical Peels
BUFFERING
Resists pH Changes With Addition of Acid or Alkali
•• pH of acid can be maintainedpH of acid can be maintained
•• May reduce amount of free acid in productMay reduce amount of free acid in product
•• Sodium Sodium GlycolateGlycolate
•• Phosphoric AcidPhosphoric Acid
•• Monosodium PhosphateMonosodium Phosphate
Ingredients commonly used for buffering:
BUFFERING
Buffering creates a solution that resists pH changes when an acid or alkali is added. Ingredients commonly used for buffering include Sodium Glycolate, Phosphoric Acid and Monosodium Phosphate.
When buffering occurs, the pH of the acid can be maintained.
Just like neutralization, buffering reduces the amount of free acid in a product. The percentage of free acid, as expressed by pH, is an excellent indicator for efficacy and potential for irritation.
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Working With Chemical Peels
Free Acid refers to the Amount of Acid Actually Available in a Product
Example:Example:There is a container of acid and sodium hydroxide is added. Sodium hydroxide is used in AHAs to neutralize which raises the pH.
The sodium hydroxide attaches to the acid, binds up some of the acid.
It will raise the pH and lower the acid available.
Lower pH formulas have more bio-availability since more free acid is present.
A 35% Glycolic Acid that is neutralized could actually have 17% “free acid range”.
FREE ACID RANGE
Free Acid Range
Free Acid Range refers to the amount of acid actually available in a product.
For example, say you had a tank of acid and put sodium hydroxide in the tank. The sodium hydroxide attaches to the acid, it's going to bind up some of the acid. It will raise the pH and lower the acid available. Lower pH formulas have more bio-availability since more free acid is present.
A 35% Glycolic Acid that is neutralized could actually have
only 17% free acid range.
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Working With Chemical Peels
Relationship of AHA and pH Used Is ImportantRelationship of AHA and pH Used Is Important-- AHAAHA’’ss are more effective with a lower pHare more effective with a lower pH-- Greater risk of irritation, side effects and stingingGreater risk of irritation, side effects and stinging-- Most AHA retail products are buffered for less chance of Most AHA retail products are buffered for less chance of
irritation and stinging irritation and stinging
The Percentage of Free Acid is an Excellent The Percentage of Free Acid is an Excellent Indicator for EfficacyIndicator for Efficacy
-- Proper protocol must be followed to prevent irritation Proper protocol must be followed to prevent irritation and sensitivity when using an acid with a low pH and a and sensitivity when using an acid with a low pH and a
high percent of free acidhigh percent of free acid
FREE ACID RANGE
Free Acid Range
AHA formulas are more effective with a lower pH. There is however, a greater risk of irritation, side effects and stinging. Most AHA retail products have been buffered to some degree to limit the stinging and discomfort of the acid.
The Percentage of Free Acid is an Excellent Indicator for Efficacy
- Proper protocol must be followed to prevent irritation and sensitivity
when using an acid with a low pH and a high percent of free acid
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Working With Chemical PeelsBENEFITS OF AHA’S
•• RetexturizingRetexturizing, Smoothes and Refines, Smoothes and Refines
•• Softens Fine Lines and WrinklesSoftens Fine Lines and Wrinkles
•• Improves Tone and ClarityImproves Tone and Clarity
•• Reduces Follicular CongestionReduces Follicular Congestion
•• Fades Fades HyperpigmentationHyperpigmentation
•• Management of AcneManagement of Acne--Prone SkinProne Skin
•• Brightens the SkinBrightens the Skin
BENEFITS OF AHA USE
• Retexturizing: Removes build-up of dead skin cells that can cause an uneven appearance in texture. Stimulates cell renewal. Reveals smoother, fresh, younger-looking skin.
• Smoothes Lines: Thins the stratum corneum, evens the "hills & valleys" of the skin's surface. Thickens the dermis by increasing moisture in ‘gags’ – glycosaminoglycans.
• Improves Tone: AHAs thin the stratum corneum. The skin becomes more translucent. Enhances firmness by producing densely populated epidermal cells.
• Management of Acne-Prone Skin / Reduces Follicular Congestion: Removes surface dead skin cells and within the follicle, which helps prevent the follicle from becoming clogged. Reducing follicular debris and retention greatly reduces the development of new comedones. AHAs are effective in "opening up" the follicles because they interfere with corneocyte bonds that hold the dead cells together. With the follicles opened, other treatment products, such as Benzoyl Peroxide, can penetrate into the follicles to kill bacteria and interrupt the Retention Hyperkeratosis process.
• Fades Pigmentation: Reduces pigment buildup in the stratum corneum. Irregularities in pigmentation can fade or disappear.
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Working With Chemical Peels
POTENTIAL SIDE EFFECTS
1.1. Increased sensitivity to UV exposureIncreased sensitivity to UV exposure
2.2. Stimulate inflammation mediators (cytokines)Stimulate inflammation mediators (cytokines)
3. Induce hyperpigmentation3. Induce hyperpigmentation
4.4. Adverse reactions:Adverse reactions:
-- Burning, redness, swelling, blisters, scabs Burning, redness, swelling, blisters, scabs
POTENTIAL SIDE EFFECTS
1. AHA’s increase sensitivity to UV exposure.
2. AHA’s can stimulate inflammation mediators, called cytokines.
Cytokines are small secreted proteins which mediate and regulate immunity and inflammation
3. AHA’s may induce hyperpigmentation.
4. Adverse reactions include burning, redness, swelling, blistering, scabs and rashes.
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Working With Chemical Peels
MINIMIZE SIDE EFFECTS
1.1. Daily use of sunscreen SPF 30Daily use of sunscreen SPF 30
-- For UV protection & prevent hyperpigmentationFor UV protection & prevent hyperpigmentation
2.2. Schedule treatments 14 days apartSchedule treatments 14 days apart
3. Recommend Bleaching Agent for home care3. Recommend Bleaching Agent for home care
4.4. Follow the treatment protocolsFollow the treatment protocols
-- Make sure client follows pre & post peel instructionsMake sure client follows pre & post peel instructions
MINIMIZING AHA SIDE EFFECTS
1. To counteract skin sensitivity to UV exposure and to prevent hyperpigmentation, make sure your client uses an SPF 30 sunscreen daily.
2. When doing a series of peels, to counteract inflammation mediators, schedule the treatments at least 14 days apart.
3. To protect against or to treat hyperpigmentation, recommend ONLY YOURx Whitening Serum or Bleaching Lotion.
4. To prevent adverse reactions, follow the treatment protocols. Make sure your client follows the pre and post peel instructions.
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Working With Chemical Peels
GLYCOLIC ACID
• Exfoliates dead skin cells• Retexturize the skin• Stimulate Cellular Regeneration • Loosen Impactions• Fade Hyperpigmentation• Soften Fine Lines• Brighten the complexion
Multifunctional:Multifunctional:
GLYCOLIC ACID
Glycolic Acid is multifunctional:
• Exfoliates dead skin cells
• Retexturizes – smoothes and refines the skin
• Stimulates cellular regeneration
• Loosen impactions for ease in removal
• Slowly helps fade hyperpigmentation
• Softens fine lines
• Brightens the complexion
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Working With Chemical Peels
GLYCOLIC ACIDGLYCOLIC ACID
•• Dissolves Lipid Bonds Between CellsDissolves Lipid Bonds Between Cells
•• Smallest Molecular Weight, Penetrates Deepest of Smallest Molecular Weight, Penetrates Deepest of AHAsAHAs
•• Works Well on both Aging and Acne Skin ConditionsWorks Well on both Aging and Acne Skin Conditions
•• Works Well on All Fitzpatrick Skin Types including V & VIWorks Well on All Fitzpatrick Skin Types including V & VI
•• Mildly stimulates Collagen and Mildly stimulates Collagen and GAGGAG’’ss
•• Delivers Fastest Results on Smoothing & Delivers Fastest Results on Smoothing & RetexturizingRetexturizing
•• Best for Product Penetration Best for Product Penetration
•• Immediately Immediately ‘‘refreshesrefreshes’’ the Skinthe Skin
GLYCOLIC ACID
• Dissolves the lipid bonds between the cells
• It has the smallest molecular weight so it penetrates the deepest of all AHA’s
• Works well on both aging and acne skin conditions
• Works well on All Fitzpatrick Skin Types including V & VI
• Can stimulate Collagen synthesis
• Delivers the fastest results on smoothing & retexturizing the skin
• It offers the best results for product penetration
• Immediately ‘refreshes’ the skin
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Working With Chemical Peels
GLYCOLIC ACIDGLYCOLIC ACID
•• PhotoPhoto--Damaged SkinDamaged Skin
•• Rough TextureRough Texture
•• Fine Lines/WrinklesFine Lines/Wrinkles
•• Acne, MiliaAcne, Milia
•• Dull, Asphyxiated SkinDull, Asphyxiated Skin
Skin Indications:Skin Indications: Contraindications:Contraindications:
•• Pregnancy Pregnancy
•• LactationLactation
(Or have them ask (Or have them ask physician)physician)
•• See ConsentSee Consent--Release Release Form for all othersForm for all others
GLYCOLIC ACID
Skin Indications: Contraindications:
• Photo-Damaged Skin Pregnancy
• Rough Texture Lactation (or get Dr release)
• Fine Lines/Wrinkles
• Acne, Milia
• Dull, Asphyxiated Skin
See “Consent-Release” form for all other contraindications. They are also listed in the “Rainforest Treatment Techniques” class.
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Working With Chemical PeelsBETA HYDROXY ACIDS
Smooth the Skin by Dissolving Corneocytes
•• SalicylicSalicylic Willow Bark,Willow Bark,
Wintergreen leaves, Wintergreen leaves,
Sweet Birch Sweet Birch
138138
AcidAcid SourceSource MolecularMolecularWeightWeight
BETA HYDROXY ACIDS
Beta Hydroxy Acids work by speeding up the turnover of skin cells. They dissolve the glue that holds corneocytes or dead skin cells in the top layers, allowing the fresh cells beneath to emerge.
BHA’s smooth the skin and allow the normal shedding process to occur. The effects are less potent than those of the Alpha Hydroxy Acids.
Salicylic Acid is found naturally in willow bark, wintergreen leaves and sweet birch. It’s molecular weight is 138, larger than Glycolic and Salicylic Acid.
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Working With Chemical Peels
SALICYLIC ACID
•• Exfoliates dead skin cellsExfoliates dead skin cells
•• RetexurizesRetexurizes the skinthe skin
•• Loosen ImpactionsLoosen Impactions
•• Stimulates Cellular RegenerationStimulates Cellular Regeneration
•• Antimicrobial / AntisepticAntimicrobial / Antiseptic
Multifunctional:Multifunctional:
SALICYLIC ACID
Salicylic Acid is Multifunctional:
• Exfoliates dead skin cells and within the follicles
• Retexurizes the skin, smoothes and refines it
• Loosen Impactions for ease in removal
• Stimulates cellular regeneration
• Antimicrobial / Antiseptic
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Working With Chemical Peels
SALICYLIC ACIDSALICYLIC ACID
KeratolyticKeratolytic AgentAgent
•• Derived from the Bark of the Willow TreeDerived from the Bark of the Willow Tree
•• Dissolves Corneocyte Cohesion & Within FollicleDissolves Corneocyte Cohesion & Within Follicle
•• LipophilicLipophilic –– Helps Dissolve & Prevent Helps Dissolve & Prevent ComedonesComedones
•• Larger Size Molecule than Larger Size Molecule than AHAsAHAs, Less Irritation, Less Irritation
•• Works Well on Grades 1 & II Acne Works Well on Grades 1 & II Acne
•• Works Well on All Fitzpatrick Skin Types Including V & VIWorks Well on All Fitzpatrick Skin Types Including V & VI
SALICYLIC ACID
Salicylic Acid, a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) derived from the bark of the willow tree. It works on the surface, dissolving the top layer of corneum cells and deep within the follicles.
As a lipophilic acid, salicylic effectively penetrates pores and helps dissolvecomedones. Because it encourages exfoliation and reduces pore size, pores are less likely to become clogged with dead skin cells and excess oil.
Because of the larger size molecule, Salicylic Acid produces less irritation than AHAs. Salicylic Acid products work well on mild breakout –Grades 1 & II Acne. It also works well on all Fitzpatrick Skin Types including V and VI.
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Working With Chemical Peels
SALICYLIC ACIDSALICYLIC ACID
•• ComedonesComedones
•• Grades I & II AcneGrades I & II Acne
•• Oily SkinOily Skin
•• Rough TextureRough Texture
•• PostPost--Inflammatory Inflammatory PigmentationPigmentation
•• Seborrheic DermatitisSeborrheic Dermatitis
Skin Indications:Skin Indications: Contraindications:Contraindications:
•• Allergy to AspirinAllergy to Aspirin
•• Pregnancy Pregnancy
•• LactationLactation
•• See ConsentSee Consent--Release Release Form for all othersForm for all others
SALICYLIC ACID
Skin Indications: Contraindications:
• Comedones Allergy to aspirin
• Mild Acne Pregnancy
• Oily Skin Lactation (or get dr release)
• Rough Texture
• Post-Inflammatory Pigmentation
• Seborrheic Dermatitis
See “Consent-Release” form for all other contraindications. They are also listed in the “Rainforest Treatment Techniques” class.
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Working With Chemical Peels
L+ LACTIC ACIDL+ LACTIC ACID
•• Exfoliates Dead Skin CellsExfoliates Dead Skin Cells
•• Inhibits Inhibits TyrosinaseTyrosinase
•• Moisturizes, Increases HydrationMoisturizes, Increases Hydration
•• Increases Increases CeremideCeremide LevelsLevels
•• Stimulates Cellular RegenerationStimulates Cellular Regeneration
•• Smoothes, Refines, Brightens the ComplexionSmoothes, Refines, Brightens the Complexion
Multifunctional:Multifunctional:
LACTIC ACID
Lactic Acid is Multifunctional:
• Exfoliation removes dead skin cells and helps fade hyperpigmentation
• Lighten Skin- it inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin
• Moisturizes, it increases hydration in the skin
• Increase Ceremide Levels
• Stimulates cellular regeneration
• Smooth and refines the texture of the skin
• Brightens the complexion
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Working With Chemical Peels
EXFOLIANT ACTION EXFOLIANT ACTION
•• Works at Very Base of Stratum CorneumWorks at Very Base of Stratum Corneum
•• Dissolves Lipids That Hold Dead Skin Cells TogetherDissolves Lipids That Hold Dead Skin Cells Together
•• Works On Upper Levels of Epidermis More Rapidly Than GlycolicWorks On Upper Levels of Epidermis More Rapidly Than Glycolic
•• Penetrates Slowly Into Deeper LayersPenetrates Slowly Into Deeper Layers
•• With its Longer Reaction Time, Safer than Other AcidsWith its Longer Reaction Time, Safer than Other Acids
•• Better Control and Less Chance of Burning the SkinBetter Control and Less Chance of Burning the Skin
LACTIC ACID – EXFOLIANT ACTION
• Works at the base of the Stratum Corneum
• Dissolves lipids that hold dead skin cells together
• Works On the upper levels of the epidermis more rapidly than Glycolic
• Penetrates slowly into the deeper layers of the epidermis
• With its longer reaction time, it is safer than other acids
• Better control and less chance of burning the skin
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Working With Chemical Peels
LIGHTENING ACTION OF LACTIC ACID
•• Graph Shows Graph Shows Difference In Difference In Lightening With 15% Lightening With 15% Lactic Acid Compared Lactic Acid Compared with Control (placebo)with Control (placebo)
•• Lactic clearly best Lactic clearly best lightening performer lightening performer compared with compared with ArbutinArbutinand Licoriceand Licorice
•• Increase efficacy by Increase efficacy by adding adding ArbutinArbutin and and LicoriceLicorice
LIGHTENING ACTION OF LACTIC ACID
The graph shows the difference In the lightening action with 15% Lactic Acid compared with a control (placebo).
Lactic Acid is clearly the best lightening performer compared with other known tyrosinase inhibitors, Arbutin and Licorice.
You can increase the lightening efficacy by adding Arbutin and Licorice to Lactic Acid.
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Working With Chemical Peels
MOISTURIZING ACTION MOISTURIZING ACTION
•• L(+) form of Lactic Acid is the Form Present in the L(+) form of Lactic Acid is the Form Present in the Human Body (skin, hair, muscles)Human Body (skin, hair, muscles)
•• Every day the Human Body Produces About 120 Grams Every day the Human Body Produces About 120 Grams of Lactic Acidof Lactic Acid
•• Lactic Acid is also Part of NMF (Natural Moisturizing Lactic Acid is also Part of NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), which Retains Moisture in the SkinFactor), which Retains Moisture in the Skin
-- Skin is Approximately 30% Lactates & Its SaltsSkin is Approximately 30% Lactates & Its Salts
•• Possesses Ability to Increase Possesses Ability to Increase CeramideCeramide Levels by Levels by Stimulating Stimulating CeramideCeramide BiosynthesisBiosynthesis
MOISTURIZING ACTION OF LACTIC ACID
• L(+) form of Lactic Acid is the form present in the human body (skin, hair, muscles)
• Every day the human body produces about 120 grams of Lactic Acid.
• Lactic Acid is also part of NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor) of the skin, which
retains moisture in the skin
- Skin is approximately 30% Lactates & its salts
• Lactic Acid possesses the ability to increase ceramide levels by stimulating
Ceramide biosynthesis. Ceramides are naturally found in the skin’s outer layer and help the skin retain moisture. When the skin’s ceramide levels are low, the skin has difficulty retaining moisture.
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Working With Chemical Peels
LACTIC ACIDLACTIC ACID
•• HyperHyper--PigmentationPigmentation•• Dry or Dehydrated Skin Dry or Dehydrated Skin •• Sensitive Skin, Sensitive Skin, RosaceaRosacea•• Rough TextureRough Texture•• Fine Lines/WrinklesFine Lines/Wrinkles•• Oily, Acne, MiliaOily, Acne, Milia•• Dull, Asphyxiated SkinDull, Asphyxiated Skin
Skin Indications:Skin Indications: Contraindications:Contraindications:
•• Pregnancy Pregnancy
•• LactationLactation
(Or have them ask (Or have them ask physician)physician)
•• See ConsentSee Consent--Release Release Form for all othersForm for all others
LACTIC ACID
Skin Indications: Contraindications:
• Hyper-Pigmentation Pregnancy
• Dry or Dehydrated Skin Lactation (or get Dr. release)
• Sensitive Skin, Rosacea
• Rough Texture
• Fine Lines/Wrinkles
• Oily, Acne, Milia
• Dull, Asphyxiated Skin
See “Consent-Release” form for all other contraindications. They are also listed in the “Rainforest Treatment Techniques” class.
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Working With Chemical Peels
RAINFOREST COLLECTIONRAINFOREST COLLECTIONProfessional Treatment PeelsProfessional Treatment Peels
Next Class to Review:Next Class to Review:
Rainforest Rainforest
Treatment Treatment
Techniques Techniques
The Rainforest Collection
Unleash the regenerating power of the Rainforest
to reveal a more radiant complexion