Written By: Ryan Lutz · 2019-09-24 · Step 7 Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the two M3 screws...

MatterHackers

How to Install an E3D v6 HotEnd on a LulzbotMini

Written By: Ryan Lutz

How to Install an E3D v6 HotEnd on a Lulzbot Mini Draft: 2016-10-11Guide ID: 8 -

This document was generated on 2019-09-24 02:07:51 AM (MST).

© 2019 matterhackers.dozuki.com/ Page 1 of 24

TOOLS:Wire strippers (1)Wire cutters (1)1.5mm hex key (1)2mm hex key (1)2.5mm hex key (1)3mm hex key (1)4mm hex key (1)Soldering iron (1)7mm wrench (1)20mm wrench (1)Phillips screwdriver (1)

PARTS:Assembled E3D v6 HotEnd 3.00mm 24V

(Direct) (1)E3D Hotend Mount for Lulzbot Mini (1)Lulzbot Mini Layer Cooling Fan Shroud

for E3D v6 (1)Molex Male 22-24 AWG Terminal Pin (6)M2 Heat Set Insert (2)M3 Heat Set Insert (2)




http://www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-accessories/e3d-all-metal-v6-hotend-full-kit-3.00mm-direct-24v

https://www.matterhackers.com/store/digital-designs/e3d-hotend-mount-for-lulzbot-mini

https://www.matterhackers.com/store/digital-designs/e3d-hotend-mount-for-lulzbot-mini

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?KeyWords=WM2517CT-ND

https://www.mcmaster.com/94180a307

https://www.mcmaster.com/#94180A331

Step 1 — Remove the extruder assembly

Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the two M3 screws securing the bracket to the top of the extrudercarriage.

Remove the bracket.

Step 2

Disconnect the 20-pin harness.




Step 3

Using a 4mm hex key, remove the three M5 screws securing the extruder assembly to thecarriage.

Reinstall the screws onto the back of the extruder assembly so as not to lose track of them.

Support the extruder assembly with one hand while you remove the screws with the other hand.




Step 4 — Install pins on the E3D HotEnd

Cut the wires down to approximately 22cm in length and strip 8mm off the ends.

Crimp on the pins.




Step 5 — Remove the old hotend

Remove the following wires from the harness:

Pins 5, 6: Two (thick red) to the heater cartridge

Pins 9, 10: Two (thin, one black and one red) to the heat sink blower fan

Pins 17, 18: Two (thin, one black and one red) to the hotend thermistor

To remove a pin, push in on the small metal tab on the side of the harness then push down on thepin with a flat object and pull the wire free.

Pin diagram from Lulzbot's documentation: http://download.lulzbot.com/Mini/1.0/oha...




http://download.lulzbot.com/Mini/1.0/ohai-kit/printhead_assembly.html

Step 6

Using a 1.5mm hex key, remove theM1.5 screw securing the heat sinkblower fan.

The fan will not be reused for theE3D hotend.

Step 7

Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the two M3 screws securing the layer cooling fan and lay the still-connected fan off to the side.

Reinstall the screws into the layer cooling shroud. They will be used to extract the insets for reusein a few steps.




Step 8

Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove thetwo M3 screws securing the layercooling fan shroud.

Make sure to keep the screws asthey will be reused forreassembly.

Step 9

Using a 1.5mm hex key, remove the two M2 screws securing the X-axis endstop to the stock layercooling fan shroud and lay the endstop aside with the wires still connected.

Set the washers aside for reuse, but screw the screws back in to place temporarily after theendstop has been removed. We will use them to remove the inserts in the next step.




Step 10 — Extract the inserts for reuse

If you have extra M2 and M3 inserts, you can skip this step.

This step is best done with the shroud in a bench vice.

Using the soldering iron, heat up one of the screws until you can pull both it and the insert out ofthe stock shroud.

Repeat for the other three screws and inserts.

Before handling, wait until the screw and insert cool completely or dip them into water to cool themmore quickly.




Step 11

Set an insert on top of one of the holes in the new layer cooling fan shroud and apply heat with thetip of the soldering iron.

Once the insert is heated enough, it will slide into place.

Repeat for the other three inserts.

Step 12

Using a 2mm hex key, remove theM3 screw securing the extrudernozzle ground wire to the heater




block and lay the still-connected wireaside.

Step 13

Using a 3mm hex key, remove the two M4 bolts securing the extruder mount plate to the extruderbody and set the plate aside.

Make sure to keep the screws as they will be reused for reassembly.

The stock hex mount plate is not reused and will be replaced with a new part.

The hot end can now be completely removed.

Step 14 — Prep the printer

Using a 2mm hex key, remove the six M3 screws securing the electronics case to the printer.




Step 15

Pull the case off the body of the printer and lay it down flat.

Be careful not to yank the case fan wire out of its socket.

Unplug the case fan from the socket on the main circuit board.

Step 16 — Rewiring the heat sink fan for 24V

Unplug the old blower fan wire from the main circuit board.




Step 17

Remove the plastic connector from the end of the old blower fan wire.

Unwind the wires so they have as far a reach as possible.

With the case open, the wires should be able to reach the power supply with minimal strain.

Step 18

Connect the old blower fan wiredirectly to the power supply.

Yellow goes to +V

Black goes to -V

Depending on the length of the fanwires, you may need to connectthem to the other end of the powerwires at the power input terminal onthe RAMBo board.




Step 19

Plug the case fan back in to its socket.

Make sure the polarity is as shown: black on the left, red on the right.

Step 20

Reattach the case with the six M3 screws on the front and back.




Step 21 — Sanity check

At this point, all these componentsshould be ready for assembly.

Step 22 — Reassembly with the new hot end

Fit the new plate around the top ofthe E3D hotend as shown.




Step 23

Insert the hotend and plateassembly into the carriage plate asshown.

The hotend will fit but the heat sinkshroud will rub against the insidecurve of the carriage plate. Not toworry-- the bolts in the next step willhold everything together.

Step 24

Insert the nuts that you saved from disassembly into the hex holes on the top side of the extruderassembly.

Using a 3mm hex key, install the M4 bolts to hold the hotend assembly to the rest of the carriage.




Step 25

Install the nozzle ground wire fromearlier under the screw securing theheater cartridge inside the heatblock.

Step 26

Using a 2.5mm hex key, reattach thelayer cooling fan shroud with the twoM3 screws from earlier.




Step 27

Using a 1.5mm hex key, reattach the X axis end stop to the layer cooling fan shroud with the twoM2 screws from earlier.

Using a 2.5mm hex key, reattach the layer cooling fan with the two M3 screws from earlier.

Make sure the wires are oriented up towards the top of the extruder assembly.




Step 28

Install the newly wired pins into the harness using the diagram from disassembly.

The new E3D heat sink fan wires correlate to pins 9 and 10.

The new heater cartridge wires correlate to pins 5 and 6.

The nozzle ground wire is reinstalled into pin 16.

The layer cooling fan wires correlate to pins 7 and 8

The thermistor wires correlate to pins 17 and 18.




Step 29

Using the orientation as shown,route the wires to the right of theheat sink fan, under the carriage andabove the layer cooling fan shroud.

Bundle the wires using zip ties andthe shroud you removed duringdisassembly.

Depending how tangled your wiresbecome in the process, you mayneed to remove pins from theharness and reattach them in orderto route the wires correctly.

Step 30

With the wires routed and bundledproperly, the extruder carriageshould now look something like this.

It is essential that all wires arebundled or otherwise secured sothat they are not strained to reachthe harness and also that there is nochance that they will come intocontact with the heat block.




Step 31 — Reattach extruder assembly

Using a 4mm hex key, reattach the extruder assembly to the main carriage using the three M5screws from disassembly.

Step 32

Plug in the harness back in.

Make sure the wires fit inside and use a 2.5mm hex key to reinstall the two M3 screws securing thetop bracket.




Step 33

Plug in the USB cable to the printer.

Plug the other end of the USB cable into the computer.

Plug the power cable into the wall, then plug the other end into the printer.

Step 34 — Moment of Truth

Everything's connected. Flip theprinter's power switch.

The green light inside the USBport should light up and the E3Dhot end heat sink fan should startspinning.




Step 35 — Edit Printer's Firmware

The new E3D hotend is 5.5mmlonger than the old Hexagon. Weneed to make an adjustment to thefirmware file so that the printerknows its own total Z axis heightand does not crash into the bed orwiping surface.

On line 388 of Configuration.h,change the value of Z_MAX_POSfrom 159 to 153.5.

The firmware for the mini can befound on the USB stick that camewith your printer or directly fromLulzbot's site. It may be easier todownload the folder via ftp.

Complete instructions for flashingthe firmware can be found onLulzbot's site.




http://download.lulzbot.com/Mini/1.0/software/firmware/

ftp://download.lulzbot.com/download/lulzbot/Mini/1.0/software/firmware/

https://ohai-kit.alephobjects.com/project/firmware-flashing/

Step 36 — Torque down nozzle

Bring the hot end up to temperature(260°C), then tighten down thenozzle with a 7mm wrench.

If this step is omitted the nozzle willwork its way loose from the heatblock and plastic will ooze from thethreads.

Step 37 — PID Tuning

Follow the PID tuning guide tocalibrate the new hot end.




https://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Guide/PID+Tuning/6

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Written By: Ryan Lutz · 2019-09-24 · Step 7 Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the two M3 screws...

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