+ All Categories
Home > Documents > WW 071113 S001 0V2H0 - WordPress.com · Andy Murray’s Wimbledon win snapped a near eight-decade...

WW 071113 S001 0V2H0 - WordPress.com · Andy Murray’s Wimbledon win snapped a near eight-decade...

Date post: 17-Jun-2020
Category:
Upload: others
View: 0 times
Download: 0 times
Share this document with a friend
8
Hometown Hero Andy Murray’s Wimbledon win snapped a near eight-decade drought for the U.K. We offer some help off the court. Page MW8 MAN OF THE WEEK July 11, 2013 Pillow Talk PLUS: Nas gets Grungy for new line HSTRY. Page MW6 by JEAN E. PALMIERI MICHAEL KORS is a renegade. He broke with the rest of the de- signer pack by opting to show his spring 2014 men’s collection at his New York showroom in July instead of waiting for New York Fashion Week, citing a dis- connect in the dates. “That’s the women’s calendar,” he said of waiting until after Labor Day. “We’re opening the line for sale now. Showing the clothes in September doesn’t make sense.” He said in the past, when he would show men’s and women’s together on the same runway, he found himself putting retailers off, saying, “Wait, wait, the show’s coming — save some money for our clothes. But that logic is bizarre. I would rather stores see the line when they’re in their fashion mojo.” Stressing that he wasn’t trying to cre- ate a “calendar revolution,” Kors said he doesn’t necessarily support the cre- ation of a separate men’s fashion week in New York and isn’t ready to commit to a “full-tilt runway presentation” for his men’s line — “it depends on the sea- son. But we want the people to see the clothes up close, and this allows buyers to see the complete collection and not have to wait for the runway show.” A few men’s pieces may be sprin- kled in on the runway during his show in September, but those will only be to show a full representation of the brand. Channeling his Hollywood pedi- gree, the “Project Runway” judge said his spring line was reminis- cent of David Bowie meets Cary Grant meets Ryan Gosling. For Kors, this is a season that was “about convergences,” where tai- lored clothing and pajamas con- verge into a relaxed yet sophisti- cated conglomerate. Michael Kors’ first stand-alone men’s presentation highlighted a leisure-inspired collection where pajama pants and loose-fitting tailored clothing blended seamlessly for a man not afraid to take chances. Another American Pastime With this year's All-Star Game in NYC, the merch is moving. Page MW2 {Continued on page MW7} PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN
Transcript
Page 1: WW 071113 S001 0V2H0 - WordPress.com · Andy Murray’s Wimbledon win snapped a near eight-decade drought for the U.K. We offer some help off the court. Page MW8 MAN OF THE WEEK July

Hometown HeroAndy Murray’s Wimbledon win snapped a near eight-decade drought for the U.K. We offer some help off the court. Page MW8

MAN OF THE WEEK

July 11, 2013

Pillow Talk

PLUS: Nas gets Grungy for new line HSTRY. Page MW6

by JEAN E. PALMIERI

MICHAEL KORS is a renegade. He broke with the rest of the de-

signer pack by opting to show his spring 2014 men’s collection at his New York showroom in July instead of waiting for New York Fashion Week, citing a dis-connect in the dates.

“That’s the women’s calendar,” he said of waiting until after Labor Day. “We’re opening the line for sale now. Showing the clothes in September doesn’t make sense.” He said in the past, when he would show men’s and women’s together on the same runway, he found himself putting retailers off, saying, “Wait, wait, the show’s coming — save some money for our clothes. But that logic is bizarre. I would rather stores see the line when they’re in their fashion mojo.”

Stressing that he wasn’t trying to cre-ate a “calendar revolution,” Kors said he doesn’t necessarily support the cre-

ation of a separate men’s fashion week in New York and isn’t ready to commit to a “full-tilt runway presentation” for his men’s line — “it depends on the sea-son. But we want the people to see the clothes up close, and this allows buyers to see the complete collection and not have to wait for the runway show.”

A few men’s pieces may be sprin-kled in on the runway during his show in September, but those will only be to show a full representation of the brand.

Channeling his Hollywood pedi-gree, the “Project Runway” judge said his spring line was reminis-cent of David Bowie meets Cary Grant meets Ryan Gosling. For Kors, this is a season that was “about convergences,” where tai-lored clothing and pajamas con-verge into a relaxed yet sophisti-cated conglomerate.

Michael Kors’ first stand-alone men’s presentation highlighted a leisure-inspired collection where pajama pants and loose-fitting tailored clothing blended seamlessly for a man not afraid to take chances.

Another American PastimeWith this year's All-Star Game in NYC, the merch is moving. Page MW2

{Continued on page MW7}

PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN

Page 2: WW 071113 S001 0V2H0 - WordPress.com · Andy Murray’s Wimbledon win snapped a near eight-decade drought for the U.K. We offer some help off the court. Page MW8 MAN OF THE WEEK July

Men’s Week

by JEAN E. PALMIERI

FLUSHING, N.Y. — New York City has All-Star fever.

From the painted apple statues placed strategically around town to the fast-paced sales of commem-orative merchandise, baseball fans are embracing the upcoming 84th All-Star Game, scheduled for Citi Field on Tuesday.

The New York Mets last hosted the Midsummer Classic in 1964, and it’s been four years since it was staged in New York, at Yankee Stadium.

“For a lot of the people in New York, it could be a once in a lifetime thing, so we expect the spend to be a lot higher [than in smaller markets],” said Rich Grey, divisional manager of retail for Aramark Sports, which runs the retail shops at Citi Field.

Although special merchandise sporting the ASG logo has been trickling in since last summer, the stores at Citi Field and throughout the city have stocked their shelves with T-shirts, jerseys, caps, beach towels, shot glasses and mason jars to meet the increased demand as game day approaches. “It started coming in last August when we got access to the logo,” he explained. “And we’ve been teasing it since then. But now, the stores are 100 percent flipped.”

Grey said customers are re-sponding enthusiastically to the merchandise, which sports the New York City skyline and an icon-ic image of a bridge imprinted on the bottom half of a baseball, com-plete with orange stitching.

“The conversion rate is in the 30 percent range,” Grey revealed, “up from the usual 7 to 10 percent range. So it’s much higher.” He fur-ther revealed that even though the main promotional and marketing efforts won’t kick into high gear until the end of this week, sales are running at triple the rate of the stores’ largest volume days.

In men’s, name and number T-shirts and jerseys remain popu-lar, with All-Stars David Wright and Matt Harvey of the Mets among the bestsellers. Grey said that before Harvey became the team’s ace pitcher this season, Wright’s T-shirts were the top sell-er, but now Harvey’s are flying off the shelves. “He’s the real deal,” Grey said. Windbreakers from the

Authentic Collection from Majestic are also popular, he added.

Grey said that men’s and uni-sex merchandise such as T-shirts, jerseys and hats with the All-Star Game logo remain the bestsellers, but women’s merchandise contin-ues to gain in importance. In addi-tion to more traditional licensed items from brands such as G-III, the shops also offer feminine-skewed apparel from the Touch by Alyssa Milano collection. The line features more tapered, women-specific silhouettes and includes T-shirts embedded with rhine-stones, along with tank tops, shorts and other pieces.

Other products in the Citi Field stores include “novelties,” such as glasswear, sunglasses, teddy bears, watches and miniature versions of both Citi Field and the Mets’ for-mer home, Shea Stadium. And of course, there’s an entire display of

All-Star Game-logoed baseballs. On the food-court level of the stadium is a hat kiosk offering caps from New Era from each Major League Baseball team that include the All-Star logo and stars on the back identifying them as special All-Star Game product.

Some of the merchandise with-in the stores at Citi Field is exclu-sive to the ballpark, but All-Star product can be found at other re-tailers around town as well, includ-ing Modell’s, Victoria’s Secret and the Clubhouse Shops, which are operated by Lids.

Greg Sim, senior licensing di-rector for apparel and headwear at Major League Baseball, said sales of All-Star Game merchandise overall are “very strong” this year. “New York is a strong market, and the Mets are very popular. There’s also the huge tourist component in New York.”

But even in smaller cities such as last year’s host, Kansas City, Mo., the merchandise tends to sell well. “It’s a reward to every club and their fan base,” he said. “And even in smaller markets such as Kansas City, fans engage with the product.”

Lynn LaRocca, senior vice pres-ident of marketing for Modell’s, said All-Star product has been in the stores since June and sales have been steady. “But as we get closer to the event and there’s more marketing around it, we ex-pect interest will be drummed up even more. We had a great re-

sponse in the beginning, and it’s about to reach a crescendo. We’re very happy with it.” She said best sellers so far include T-shirts and caps, which are car-ried in all stores, and jerseys, which are only in select stores.

In addition to its stores through the New York City area, Modell’s is also the official retailer of the T-Mobile FanFest and Clubhouse Shop. FanFest is being billed as “the world’s largest baseball theme park,” taking up more than 450,000 square feet of space at the Jacob K. Javits Convention

Center. It opens Friday, runs for five days and is considered the launch of All-Star week in New York.

Sim said the retail store at FanFest will be more than 10,000 square feet and will include all branded product from the league’s licensed partners.

The cost to attend FanFest is $35, but anyone who spends $100 on All-Star merchandise at Modell’s stores in New York and New Jersey will be given two complimentary tickets to attend, LaRocca said.

Tommy Bahama, one of MLB’s licensees, will have a pop-up shop at FanFest that will feature li-censed baseball product, as well as a limited-edition camp shirt the company created for the game. That shirt, in the Mets colors of royal blue and orange, features the All-Star logo and will retail for $158.

In addition, according to Rob Goldberg, senior vice president of marketing for Tommy Bahama, the brand has created special Collector’s Edition shirts that highlight New York baseball legends Willie Mays and Mickey Mantle, as well as the Mets and the Brooklyn Dodgers.

“There are a limited number of autographed Willie Mays shirts

that we’ll have at FanFeast,” Goldberg said. He added that the company is also hosting a gifting suite for players.

“We’re really excited about the game,” Goldberg said. “We just opened our flagship store and res-taurant in New York City this year, so it’s a big year for us.” The apple for the San Francisco Giants is lo-cated within the Tommy Bahama store on Fifth Avenue, Goldberg noted, adding that baseball VIPs will be wined and dined at the store while they’re in town.

Goldberg said that the All-Star Game merchandise has been out a few weeks and “it’s selling really well. And it’s not cheap. We’re expecting it to sell out by the weekend.”

In addition to FanFest, there are several other high-profile events planned before the game.

There’s a Nike sponsored 5K in Prospect Park in Brooklyn on

Saturday morning — proceeds will go to the Sandy Relief fund — an All-Star charity concert on the Great Lawn in Central Park featuring the New York Philharmonic Orchestra and Mariah Carey on Saturday night. On Sunday, there is a Futures Game, which spotlights some of the sport’s best young prospects, fol-lowed by the Legends & Celebrity Softball Game at Citi Field. Those expected to participate in the soft-ball game include comedians Chris Rock and George Lopez, Jennie Finch, former New York Jets quar-terback Boomer Esiason, actor James Denton and others. Former Met John Franco will be captain of the National League, while former Yankee Bernie Williams will be American League captain.

Monday night is the Home Run Derby, with Wright and Robinson Cano of the Yankees serving as captains of the National and American Leagues, respectively. Pitbull will perform on the field and Milano will be signing auto-

graphs in the Touch store at Citi Field prior to the game.

On Tuesday, there will be an All-Star Red Carpet parade down 42nd Street where all the players will ride in open Chevy trucks and greet fans. “In 2009, when the game was at Yankee Stadium, over 1 mil-lion fans lined the streets,” Sim said.

Then, the night of the game, which will air on Fox beginning at 7:30, “American Idol” winner Candice Glover will sing the na-tional anthem and Marc Anthony will perform “God Bless America” during the seventh-inning stretch.

Sim said the Starter line, owned by Iconix, will be re-launched for fall but Fan Cave on Broadway and Fourth Street will give customers a sneak peek at the jackets on Saturday.

WWD THURSDAY, JULY 11, 2013MW2

RETAILERS GET IN THE ALL-STAR GAME

ALL

PHOT

OS E

XCEP

T TO

MM

Y BA

HAM

A BY

GEO

RGE

CHIN

SEE

A shirt from the Touch by Alyssa Milano line, with an All-Star Game hat.

The All-Star Game will take place at Citi Field on Tuesday.

The limited-edition camp shirt Tommy Bahama created for the game.

Men’s merchandise being sold at the Citi Field store.

Page 3: WW 071113 S001 0V2H0 - WordPress.com · Andy Murray’s Wimbledon win snapped a near eight-decade drought for the U.K. We offer some help off the court. Page MW8 MAN OF THE WEEK July
Page 4: WW 071113 S001 0V2H0 - WordPress.com · Andy Murray’s Wimbledon win snapped a near eight-decade drought for the U.K. We offer some help off the court. Page MW8 MAN OF THE WEEK July

Men’s WeekMW4 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 11, 2013 Men’s WeekMW4

Prada

Agi & Sam

Burberry Prorsum

Ami

Jil Sander

Alexander McQueen

Kenzo

Ermenegildo Zegna

3.1 Phillip Lim

Dior Homme

Umit Benan

Dries Van Noten

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus

Lanvin

Gucci

Trussardi

Giorgio Armani

PHOT

OS B

Y GI

OVAN

NI G

IANN

ONI,

DAVI

DE M

AEST

RI A

ND L

UCA

TOM

BOLI

NI

FLOWER POWER

VOLUME SHORTS

LOOSE TAILORING

SPRING TENDENCIESA much looser tailored-clothing silhouette, an explosion of floral prints and a wide variety of sport-inspired casualwear were among the key trends that dominated the spring European runway shows. — ALEX BADIA

Yohji Yamamoto

FO

m

Page 5: WW 071113 S001 0V2H0 - WordPress.com · Andy Murray’s Wimbledon win snapped a near eight-decade drought for the U.K. We offer some help off the court. Page MW8 MAN OF THE WEEK July

Men’s Week MW5WWD XXXXXXXXXX, XXXXXXXX XX, 2013

Astrid Anderson

Men’s Week MW5WWD THURSDAY, JULY 11, 2013

Berluti

Givenchy

Andrea Incontri

Haider Ackermann

MSGM

Hermès

Bottega Veneta

Ann Demeulemeester

Valentino

Salvatore Ferragamo

John Varvatos

Z Zegna

Bally

Fendi

Rag & Bone

James Long

CLASHING SEPARATES

ACTIVE LIFESTYLE

DARK SUMMER

OR MORE ON TRENDS AND VIDEO

WWD.com/menswear-news

Louis Vuitton

Page 6: WW 071113 S001 0V2H0 - WordPress.com · Andy Murray’s Wimbledon win snapped a near eight-decade drought for the U.K. We offer some help off the court. Page MW8 MAN OF THE WEEK July

Men’s WeekWWD thursday, july 11, 2013MW6

Tranoï, Capsule Buyers Upbeat on Future Trendsby DEVORAH LAUTER

PARIS — Now is the time to be in the men’s wear industry.

Full of enthusiasm for the continued interest in men’s fashion, buyers at the Capsule and Tranoï shows here have been enjoying strong growth in the category — growth they see continuing.

“We are so hopeful, because we see this upswing in men’s wear, and we luckily chose men’s wear as our direction. We feel we’re in the right place,” said Katie Liu, a partner at Harvey Nichols’ fashion office, and co-owner of the New York showroom, Black Dog. “I think American men are just more conscious of their own style, whereas 10 years ago, American men really didn’t pay attention to fashion or personal style. And now, thanks to the younger generation who are evolving, who are into the fashion blogs and magazines, they are helping the whole industry,” added Liu, speaking at Tranoï, held here June 29 to July 1.

Wanda Colon, vice president and divi-sional merchandise manager of men’s Co-op for Barneys New York, agreed. “I feel very optimistic about the energy in Paris,” she said. “What is compelling right now is that you see elements from street, urban and sportswear all combining, but with high-end fabrics.” She said social media and the youth culture are exposing ideas and sharing in-formation quickly, and in general, designers have been doing a great job. She loved the Stutterheim collection of Swedish raincoats at Capsule, for “doing one concept well, and elaborating on that with an artisanal way of making contemporary sportswear.”

Strong trends at the shows included a lot more tailoring, with pieces that could be worn for work, an evening out or the weekend. Many outfits combined T-shirts with elegant suit jackets, or even a formal shirt and jacket with dressier interpretations of sweatpants or draw-string pants, or printed or lightweight slacks rolled up at the ankles. A wide range of colors, including some darker shades more common for colder seasons, plus daring patterns made with fabrics that would normally be associated with women’s wear, were also widespread.

“There is a new customer who is inter-ested in a piece of clothing for what it repre-sents in its modernity, whether suits, sports-wear or casualwear,” said Tancrède de Lalun, merchandise manager for men’s and women’s wear at Printemps, while visiting Capsule. “The customer is shifting…more toward tai-loring.” Noting the department store’s bud-get is increasing, he said, “These brands will grow and develop because they talk about

fashion, and men who buy fashionable items buy them at full price and when they feel like it, they don’t wait for sales, and they’ll buy more and more because they’re increasingly numerous. So there’s a huge potential.”

Kirill Odnoetkov, men’s wear buyer

for Babochka department store in Saint Petersburg, Russia, was drawn to the brand Two Italian Boys at Tranoï, because “they are doing trendy things that are still tailored, with a nice total look, and I think that’s the future, because now everything is about this street style on the Internet, and I think it will continue to grow.” Odnoetkov said the company just opened a concept store called Nevsky 152 in Saint Petersburg, for which he was hunting for new, younger brands at more affordable prices. “We need to develop, be-cause the men’s market is going further and further, and we need to stay in touch.”

He was also drawn to the French brand Saint Paul, which showed subtle prints that played on patterns found in wood grain. “Their fabric quality is really nice, so it’s a real luxury shirt with a nice twist. The price-to-quality ratio is also right,” said Odnoetkov.

However, Armand Hadida, Tranoï’s ar-tistic director, warned that despite growth potential, male shoppers still need “help” navigating their way in fashion. “What is missing in the market are good ambassa-dors, good salespeople, who help customers evolve their ways of dressing,” he said. “The

reality is that the market has been slow at waking up, because I’m sure a large number of men would like to access other styles but can’t find the right therapist to help him. We need to comfort and reassure men so they can finally dare to come out of this shell and break the mold of the ordinary suit and tie,” said Hadida.

Buyer Sebastien Paoli, who runs the men’s store Purple in Marseille, was es-pecially taken with the Paris-based brand Marchand Drapier at Tranoï, whose collec-tion illustrated the shift toward the much-sought-after balance between chic tailoring and casual comfort.

“In the beginning, Marchand Drapier was part of a much more dressy, very clas-sic category, but I modestly asked him [brand cofounder Benoit Carpentier] to open up a little on the casual side, which would allow us to slightly lower prices,” said Paoli. “So he opened his range to more weekend-style shirts, Bermudas, with materials that are a little less formal, and it’s working even bet-ter now. It’s true that today, people no longer want really formal suits that they’ll put in their closets and never wear again.”

Mats Klingbert, owner of Trunk in London, said his budget was up 20 percent, and that the store “does well in this smart casual category, where it’s not too overdone, and people still want to look well-dressed but not like they’re trying too hard. You should look quite effort-less.” At Capsule, he liked the French brand Arpenteur for its “very relaxed workwear and easy style,” as well as the new German brand Merz B. Schwanen, which he said uses Thirties looms to make T-shirts.

CWST, a new Los Angeles brand pro-nounced “quest,” launched its collection at Capsule with a sophisticated, relaxed style using top-quality fabrics. Designer Joe Sadler, who used to design for the California-based Riviera Club, said he was inspired by “the Pacific man” for this collection he compared with Seventies chic without being vintage. “This is the natural evolution to the Riviera Club man: a little more grown up, a little more sophisticated,” said Sadler. The collec-tion included drawstring slacks that could be worn “to the supermarket or work,” thanks to the heavier, dressy quality of the material, as well as a custom-designed nautical depth chart print used on hidden details.

At the same show, Italian brand Golden Goose Deluxe Brand showed its capsule Haus collection, which visitors appreciated for mixing sophisticated but basic sports-wear with a lifestyle presentation around the theme of the urban designer, includ-ing nonapparel items such as stationery.

“It feels modern and fresh, and it’s stand-ing out,” said Arnault Castel, buyer for the Hong Kong chain Kapok. He said his 25- to 35-year-old customers had been raised on “the comfort of sportswear, and now that they are older, they don’t want to give up that comfort. They can’t go back to something too rigid, but they also have to dress like they’re more grown-up.”

At Tranoï, Japanese brand Kaval launched its first collection using antique, 150-year-old Japanese fabrics patched to-gether in romantic forms that pay homage to more than 400 years of Japanese tradition and skill centered around the apparel manu-facturing district of Ryomo, where the brand is based. Items included traditional Mashiko ceramic buttons made locally, textiles once used for kimonos and many indigo dyes.

A Marchand Drapier spring ensemble at Tranoï.

A look from CWST at Capsule, modeled by the brand’s designer, Joe Sadler.

Nas Partners With Grungy Gentleman on HSTRY Labelby DAVID LIPKE

HIP-HOP STAR Nasir Jones, better known as Nas, has partnered with Jace Lipstein, founder of the men’s style site Grungy Gentleman, on a line of high-end streetwear called HSTRY. The initial 33-piece collec-tion will be available this fall.

The debut designs are heavy on leather outerwear, along with ac-cessories like leather backpacks and leather and wool baseball caps. Sportswear items such as flannel shirts and sweaters incorporate leather panels and elbow patches. Neoprene is used for a peacoat, underlining the sleek, modern look of the collection, while leather ski masks add a hint of stylish menace.

“Clothes represent happiness. They’re our protection — even a reflection of what’s in our heads, our thoughts and ideas. Hence the phrase, ‘wearing our hearts on our sleeves,’” said Nas philo-sophically. “With HSTRY, I’m embracing our greatest moments

recorded in time in the form of premium street fashion.”

The line will be available on an e-commerce site that Grungy Gentleman is launching on Aug. 1. The site will carry all of Lipstein’s fashion collabora-tions, such as current and past projects with Eton, Cohesive, Cotton Citizen and Del Toro. Additionally, the online shop will sell independent brands and lim-ited-edition product from outside collaborations that don’t directly involve Grungy Gentleman.

The new e-commerce ven-ture joins other men’s style sites that operate their own online shops, such as Hypebeast and A Continuous Lean.

Prices in the HSTRY collection are still being finalized but the mo-torcycle jacket and peacoat are about $1,800, the bomber jacket is $1,500, the backpacks are $995; hoodies and flannel shirts with leather accents are $850, and hats are $85 to $95.

Lipstein has met with a number

of upscale retailers and expects to wholesale the line to a select group of stores, although no orders have

been finalized yet.“We wanted to make clothes that

guys can wear comfortably but that

are superfresh with some kick,” said Lipstein. “It’s streetwear meets high fashion — a direction that a lot of people are going in.”

Branding is minimal, with no exterior logos and even inside garments the HSTRY name is embossed, eliminating tags. Nas plans to add other nonfashion categories to the brand down the road, said Lipstein.

As this is Nas’ first fashion proj-ect, Lipstein spearheaded design of the collection, which is manufac-tured mostly in Los Angeles. Nas provided input on materials and gave direction on the overall look and feel of the line. “He knew what he wanted — he wanted bomber jackets and he pushed for the flan-nel,” explained Lipstein. “He’s a very intelligent guy and he’s willing to learn — he’s not a know-it-all.”

The duo has already started work on a spring line, which will bring pants, shorts, T-shirts and baseball and basketball jerseys to the HSTRY assortments.

Looks from HSTRY.

PHOT

Os B

Y CA

MIL

O RI

Os/C

OURT

EsY

OF G

RUNG

Y GE

NTLE

MAN

PHOT

O BY

ELL

IOT

BROU

E

PHOT

O BY

DOM

INIq

UE M

AITR

E

For more photos, see

WWD.com/ menswear-news

w11b006b;6.indd 6 7/10/13 6:16 PM07102013181722

Page 7: WW 071113 S001 0V2H0 - WordPress.com · Andy Murray’s Wimbledon win snapped a near eight-decade drought for the U.K. We offer some help off the court. Page MW8 MAN OF THE WEEK July

Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JULY 11, 2013 MW7

“The most luxurious becomes the most casual,” he said, pointing to double-faced sweatshirts in cash-mere and cotton, pin-striped suits in crinkled wool and waxed linen anoraks. “The most casual things are the most indulgent. It’s yin and yang.”

He said the challenge is for men to “dress easy and comfortably but still be polished and sophisticated.” He addressed this with key looks that included sleeveless blazers, oxford pleated wide-leg trousers, suede trenches, indigo cotton Shaker pullover sweaters and an assortment of leather and hemp bags.

“It’s more relaxed,” Kors said. “If I see another man on the street in skinny pants that don’t fit him, [I’m going to scream.] It’s time to loosen up.”

Many of the pant models featured a high waist, a look that Kors called the “anti-Bieber. Men have forgotten where their waists are,” he said. The defined waists, that he encircled with oversize belts, worked well with the battle jackets and bombers.

Kors also offered piec-es that have taken a back seat of late, such as double-breasted blazers. “Most guys haven’t worn double-breast-eds in ages, and if they’re 25, they’ve never worn them.” Kors’ offering included Bengal stripes in crushed wool or white linen. “We have to give him a reason to buy something new,” he said.

That includes such men’s wear staples as the seersuck-er suit, shown with wide-leg pants. “Why not ratchet it up and make it cool?” he said. “Modern New Orleans in summer.”

Confessing that he is “addicted to blue,” Kors of-fered the color in a variety of hues, from the light shade of the seersucker stripe to the deeper indigo of a denim blazer, cotton pullover and denim-leather trench.

His outerwear choices included “trenches that got short and anoraks that got long.” They were paired with waxed linen cargo pants in a slim fit or hemp linen pleat-ed shorts.

Kors also offered a selec-tion of accessories such as a utilitarian take on the duffle and gym bags in linen, leath-er and denim. “I’m playing with the whole utility bag idea,” he said, noting that a lot of women have been buy-ing the men’s bags.

He said his men’s wear customer can be the husband or partner of the Michael Kors woman or just a guy seeking a balance between youthfulness and sophistica-tion. This includes men “of ‘a certain age’ who don’t want to look like papa. They’re in-ternational, they’re in shape, they travel. They want to look polished and comfortable.”

He ended his presenta-tion by “playing around with dots.” Noting that there’s always a “challenge of men with pattern,” he said, “fash-ion folks fall in love with it

and then reality sets in. So mixing of dots is one way to do it.”

Asked to sum up what he thinks of men’s wear today, Kors said he sees a “loosening of the rules. It used to be that men dressed differently for their age and had separate closets for week-end and work. But now the climate is demented and the idea of seasonality is gone. We’re all living fast. It’s an exciting time. Guys want to look great, and they’re interested in fashion but they’re not victims. The rules broke for women first, and now they’ve broken for guys.”

If I see another man on the street In

skInny pants that don’t fIt hIm, [I’m goIng

to scream.] It’s tIme to loosen up.”

— mIchael kors

phot

os b

y Ky

le e

ricK

sen

Kors Breaks From the Pack {Continued from page MW1}

Looks from the spring line.

w11b007a;9.indd 7 7/10/13 6:44 PM07102013184512

Page 8: WW 071113 S001 0V2H0 - WordPress.com · Andy Murray’s Wimbledon win snapped a near eight-decade drought for the U.K. We offer some help off the court. Page MW8 MAN OF THE WEEK July

AUTHENTIC BRANDS GROUP has li-censed Blue Lion Apparel for Palm Beach tailored clothing.

Palm Beach was one of the brands under the HMX Group umbrella that Authentic Brands acquired when it pur-chased the company at the end of last year. It had been reintroduced in July of 2011 after a two-year hiatus.

The deal with Blue Lion is for five years and covers the U.S., Canada and Mexico. The collection will launch for spring with suits, suit separates, sport coats, vest and trousers in summer-weight cottons, seer-suckers, linen and lightweight wool.

Blue Lion was founded by Jeffrey Ammeen in late 2011 to handle the licensed brands for Neema Clothing Ltd. after it wound down its branded business and sold its inventory to the Samsung Group. Jeffrey Ammeen is the son of former Neema chief executive officer James Ammeen.

Jamie Salter, chief executive officer of Authentic Brands, said, “We are very

pleased to partner with Jeffrey Ammeen and Blue Lion. It’s a young company on the move. We are confident that Jeffrey and his talented team will return Palm Beach to its former prominence in the marketplace.”

Ammeen said the Palm Beach collec-tion will “offer a vintage sensibility com-bined with modern style, and always with an awareness of its preppy origins.”

The Palm Beach brand dates from 1910, when a Maine-based textile company cre-ated a unique cotton-mohair blend cloth that it sold to several tailored clothing manufacturers. By 1931, the textile execu-tives created their own clothing company, naming it after the Florida town where they wintered. The palm tree has been used as the brand’s logo since the Fifties.

Authentic Brands is looking for addi-tional licensees for Palm Beach sports-wear, home, sleepwear, underwear, bed and bath, outdoor furniture, small leather goods and accessories.

— JEAN E. PALMIERI

EARLY END TO SUMMER: The “Fire Island Share House Tales” will live on only in our memory. “Tales” was a column that appeared two weeks ago on the Web site Daily Front Row and was set to chronicle the summer exploits in swag hoarding of a group of young men at their time share in Fire Island.

In the first post, Corey Tuttle, a publicist at Swarovski Elements, laid out how his housemates secured liquor sponsorship from several companies, including Ciroc and Red Bull, “to ensure our summer was fully stocked.”

But sometime in the last few days, the Daily quietly deleted the post without explanation, and it appears it’s discontinued the regular dispatches.

A source familiar with the situation said the Web site and Tuttle reached a mutual decision to delete the post out of concern for the jobs of the magazine staffers involved.

Two of the housemates at the share were editorial employees at Condé Nast magazines — GQ and Vanity Fair — which have policies against accepting freebies from sponsors. A Condé spokeswoman said at the time it would look into whether any ethical guidelines were violated. The publisher did not have further comment Wednesday.

The post had also been the subject of ridicule on the Daily’s comments section

and on social media. The Web site’s editor in chief, Brandusa Niro, declined to comment on the deletion of the entry.

On social media, the only evidence the post ever existed is the hashtag its users created for promotional purposes: MisterMansion. — ERIK MAZA

VF VIDEO: Vanity Fair’s video channel went live Wednesday with four original digital series. The magazine is Condé Nast’s fifth with its own dedicated video channel after Glamour, GQ, Vogue and Wired. Editor in chief Graydon Carter said the channel attempts to bring the magazine alive on video. “If we do it right, these videos will be smart, entertaining and a little bit unconventional,” he said. The series in the initial lineup are each under five minutes and rely mostly on canned footage instead of personalities from the magazine’s staff. The exception is a celebrity interview series with West Coast editor Krista Smith.

There are two humor series — “Vanity Code,” which dispenses animated etiquette advice, and the “Snob’s Dictionary,” based on the regular magazine feature explaining obscure pop culture factoids. There’s also “Eminent Domains,” an interiors series that tours prominent New York City buildings using archival footage and photography. — E.M.

Men’s WeekMW8 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 11, 2013

Hudson’s Bay Names Mui Men’s Fashion Director

Palm Beach Clothing Licensed to Blue Lion

Brooks to Offer PureProject ApparelBROOKS SPORTS has carved out a big slice of the performance running shoe category. And now the Seattle-based company is setting its sights on expand-ing its reach in apparel.

For spring, Brooks will introduce a new collection under the PureProject name, a moniker that is has used for the past two-and-a-half years for a line of lightweight, natu-ral stride-focused shoes. Like the foot-wear, PureProject men’s and wom-en’s apparel will “give runners an alternative to tra-ditional running apparel,” accord-ing to Michelle Ave, director of ap-parel merchandis-ing and design, one that is “streetwise, sophisticated and minimal.”

The collection will be tight, with just seven styles offered for women and five for men, and will be priced at the premium level, ranging from $55 for a women’s seamless tank to $160 for a men’s re-flective jacket.

“This line packs the most technol-ogy we’re offering for this season,” Ave added. “It has clean design and ex-treme versatility.”

Ave said the key attributes of PureProject are “purposeful design” features that only reveal themselves during a run, such as hidden reflectiv-ity and four-way stretch in jackets.

“Perfect fit” is also a strong feature of the collection, she added, point-

ing to the seamless technology used in jog bras and capri pants for women and running shorts for men, along with moisture management properties in long- and short-sleeve shirts. The final attribute is what Ave referred to as streetworthy design, which allows the collection to look as appropriate

at the local 10K as it does at a restaurant.

Ave said the target customer is the avid runner as well as those new to the sport. It will be sold at better national and specialty re-tailers as well as select depart-ment stores.

Brooks will introduce the collection to cus-tomers through print and digital advertising as its launch date of January 2014 approaches.

Ave said that although the debut collection is small, she ex-pects the line to continue to evolve and grow. “We be-lieve, based on

the response we’ve received thus far, that it will become an important part of our business.”

Brooks, a division of Berkshire Hathaway Inc., had sales of approxi-mately $400 million last year, an in-crease of 34 percent, and is projecting it will break $1 billion by 2020. It is ex-pecting another 23 percent jump in sales this year, according to the Berkshire Hathaway annual report. — J.E.P

The Wimbledon champ broke the jinx by bringing the trophy back to Great Britain after 77 years and went for an all-English look with a Burberry tuxedo for the Winners’ Ball.

PHOT

O BY

SPL

ASH

NEW

S/SP

LASH

NEW

S/CO

RBIS

A military crew cut would work better with his angular features.

A more structured shoulder with extra roping would empower him and add some volume to his otherwise too-slender torso.

The hand-tied bow tie adds to the chicness factor.

The straight, skinny form-fitting pant really works well with his 6-foot, 3-inch body and adds a great polished touch.

This is the big mistake of the outfit: he needs two sizes smaller and a higher stance to accommodate his giraffe-like neck.

A skinny peak contrasting satin lapel works well with the proportions of the bow tie and the neck of the shirt.

As trendy as it is at times to have an elongated sleeve, for such a formal occasion, an inch of white french cuff shirt is required.

The thin-soled, highly buffed dress shoe completes the outfit perfectly.

MEMO PAD

NELSON MUI has joined Hudson’s Bay Co. as men’s fashion director.

He will oversee the men’s fashion di-rection for both Hudson’s Bay and Lord & Taylor and will report to Suzanne Timmins, senior vice president of the fashion office for HBC

Mui served most recently as vice presi-dent of marketing and communications for David Chu Design, a post he held from 2007 to the end of 2012. Before that, he was style editor for Travel + Leisure and also served as senior editor for San Francisco magazine. He was also sportswear and media and marketing editor for DNR, the now-defunct brother publication to WWD.

Mui will split his time between New York, where Lord & Taylor is based, and the Hudson’s Bay offices in Toronto. He started last week.

HBC has been making personnel changes with regularity. Last month, the company named Bonnie Brooks vice chairman and Liz Rodbell president as it works to revitalize its stores and prod-uct offerings. Lord & Taylor is currently in the midst of a $40 million overhaul of its Fifth Avenue flagship that will include an expanded and revamped men’s depart-ment. In addition, Hudson’s Bay has been identified as a potential buyer for Saks Fifth Avenue. — J.E.P

A look from the PureProject collection.

PHOT

O BY

DAV

ID Z

AITZ

/COU

RTES

Y OF

BRO

OKS

SPOR

TS

Man ofTHE WEEK ANDY MURRAY: B


Recommended