Paris Spring Collections/Fashion: Reviews of Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Kenzo, Hermès and more. Saks Fifth Avenue’s Accessories Focus/Men’s: The retailer opens a men’s accessories area in the New York flagship. Ralph Lauren Takes a Walk/News: The designer leads staff through Central Park to mark the 10th anniversary of the Pink Pony program. Kiton Buys Barbera Mill/Financial: The high-end men’s fashion label buys one of Italy’s premiere textile mills. WWD Women’s Wear Daily •Thursday, October 7, 2010 • $3.00 WWD PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI TODAY PARIS spring ’11 collections Verdict on Paris By WWD Staff PARIS — Hot, crowded and hectic: Paris Fashion Week put buyers through their paces, but the traffic jams and security concerns were worth it for retailers, who lauded an upbeat and diverse lineup. “What’s emblematic of Paris is the degree of individuality and house- specific vision,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman. The shadow of Yves Saint Laurent, whose retrospective at the Petit Palais ended in August, loomed large, with peasant blouses, jumpsuits, gypsy skirts and brilliant color as key elements of the season. But that wasn’t all. “It must be said, there were a lot of differing messages. We have seen punk, Sixties, Seventies, plays on feminine-masculine, a mass of diaphanous clothes, pale denim — and everything in between,” said Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Hong Kong-based Lane Crawford. Buyers were energized by a memorable presentation at Chanel and strong collections at Dries Van Noten,/ 10 Buyers Laud Trends, From Sixties to Minimal Camp Vuitton Camp Vuitton Women’s Wear Daily •Thursday, October 7, 2010 • $3.00 On the final day of the Paris season, Marc Jacobs provided a big dose of fun with a Louis Vuitton show conceived as an ode to camp à la Susan Sontag. He razzle-dazzled his audience with a flashy, riotous blend of Art Deco, Art Nouveau, chinoiserie, beading, lace and lots of color — as shown here in a mélange of HotPants, sheer tops, lace fans and evening pajamas. For more on the season, see pages 4 to 7. On the final day of the Paris season, Marc Jacobs provided a big dose of fun with a Louis Vuitton show conceived as an ode to camp à la Susan Sontag. He razzle-dazzled his audience with a flashy, riotous blend of Art Deco, Art Nouveau, chinoiserie, beading, lace and lots of color — as shown here in a mélange of HotPants, sheer tops, lace fans and evening pajamas. For more on the season, see pages 4 to 7. Kenzo Miu Miu
Transcript
Paris Spring Collections/Fashion: Reviews of Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Kenzo, Hermès and more.
Saks Fifth Avenue’s Accessories Focus/Men’s: The retailer opens a men’s accessories area in the New York flagship.
Ralph Lauren Takes a Walk/News: The designer leads staff through Central Park to mark the 10th anniversary of the Pink Pony program.
Kiton Buys Barbera Mill/Financial: The high-end men’s fashion label buys one of Italy’s premiere textile mills.
WWDWomen’s Wear Daily •Thursday, October 7, 2010 • $3.00
WWD
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PARISspring ’11
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Verdict on Paris
By WWD StaffPARIS — Hot, crowded and hectic: Paris Fashion Week put buyers through their paces, but the traffic jams and security concerns were worth it for retailers, who lauded an upbeat and diverse lineup. “What’s emblematic of Paris is the degree of individuality and house-specific vision,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman.The shadow of Yves Saint Laurent, whose retrospective at the Petit Palais ended in August, loomed large, with peasant blouses, jumpsuits, gypsy skirts and brilliant color as key elements of the season. But that wasn’t all. “It must be said, there were a lot of differing messages. We have seen punk, Sixties, Seventies, plays on feminine-masculine, a mass of diaphanous clothes, pale denim — and everything in between,” said Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Hong Kong-based Lane Crawford. Buyers were energized by a memorable presentation at Chanel and strong collections at Dries Van Noten,/10
Buyers Laud Trends,From Sixties to Minimal
Camp VuittonCamp Vuitton
Women’s Wear Daily •Thursday, October 7, 2010 • $3.00
On the final day of the Paris season, Marc Jacobs provided a big dose of fun with a Louis Vuitton show conceived as an ode to camp à la Susan Sontag. He razzle-dazzled his audience with a flashy, riotous blend of Art Deco, Art Nouveau, chinoiserie, beading, lace and lots of color — as shown here in a mélange of HotPants, sheer tops, lace fans and evening pajamas. For more on the season, see pages 4 to 7.
On the final day of the Paris season, Marc Jacobs provided a big dose of fun with a Louis Vuitton show conceived as an ode to camp à la Susan Sontag. He razzle-dazzled his audience with a flashy, riotous blend of Art Deco, Art Nouveau, chinoiserie, beading, lace and lots of color — as shown here in a mélange of HotPants, sheer tops, lace fans and evening pajamas. For more on the season, see pages 4 to 7.
KenzoMiu Miu
Drive-in culture is largely a Fifties thing — today’s fast-food drive-through notwithstanding. It’s certainly not often associated with the Twenties, when the automobile was still in its fledgling stages. Yet on July 21, 1928, WWD featured a full-page story on the latest retail in-novation: the drive-in shop as seen at the Automarket Company in Louisville, Kentucky. “It [the Automarket] is unique in that it is the first store designed here in which automobile owners can drive in and buy complete lines of groceries, vegetables, fruits, fresh meats, etc.,” report-ed WWD, “without leaving their seat behind the drivers’ wheel.” The establishment, in a renovated garage building, was the brainchild of at-torney James R. Duffin and made roughly $2,000 a week.
Here’s how the place worked: Drivers were handed a bin, which would be tied to the car handle and placed atop a continuous shelf with ball-bearing rollers. As the car moved forward so did the basket, allowing guests to toss in their buys as they grabbed from the rows of merch on the left. Instead of stationary shelves, the store featured rotating, assembly line-style counters. “Customers may turn the rotor forward or backward,” wrote WWD, “either to capture merchandise that is just going away from them, or to bring around merchandise that has not reached them.” A platform turntable at the other end al-lowed cars to make an easy U-turn. Cashiers were located just after the butcher’s counter.
To keep exhaust fumes from accumulating, the Automarket in-cluded a special air system. There was a security system of sorts, too, to keep sticky-fingered shoppers from slipping things directly into their cars rather than the baskets: a series of mirrors placed strategically throughout. And for those who preferred to shop the old-fashioned way — on two feet — Duffin’s shop allowed for that as well. “[One can] enter and take merchandise from the opposite side of the rotors,” WWD reported. “Of course, the pedestrian carries his basket just as he would in a Piggly Wiggly or A&P Store.” — Venessa Lau
• Backstage and front-row coverage wraps up from Paris
• Full runs of show from Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Elie Saab,
Miu Miu, Kenzo and more • Video highlights from the Paris runways
• Additional images from the Christie’s dinner
• Celebrity Fashion: Love Story• Beauty Radar Screen: Oct. 7PH
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“The Goth and the punk should be left to the experts.”
— Ed Burstell, managing director, Liberty of London. Page one.
QUOTEDAILY
Backstage at Alexander
McQueen.
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T he outlook for Black Friday and Holiday 2010 can be summed up in two words: cautiously optimistic.
Analysts are anticipating well-informed consumers will be looking for real deals and great value.
Howard Davidowitz, chairman of Davidowitz & Associates, a national retail consulting and investment banking firm, says, “People are using credit cards less, and saving more. Consumer credit and the amount they have available to them is down significantly. So, shoppers will be more selective and more focused on price than ever before, and they’ll watch every cent.”
A sound 52% of women planning to buy gifts for the upcoming holiday season say they will not use their credit card to do so, according to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ survey. Young women (61%) and those making less than $50,000 a year (63%) are more likely than their counterparts to shun the plastic.
This reflects a continuation in spending patterns evidenced over the last two years. Consumers have adjusted their spending as they wait to see if their home values and retirement accounts will recover – and if the unemployment rate, which has held steady at 9.6%, will finally begin to fall. All this has resulted in a consumer confidence rate of 48.5 in September, in the most recent index from the Conference Board, a private research firm. That percentage is down from 53.2 in August.
BIGresearch’s Pamela J. Goodfellow, senior analyst, says, “In a nutshell, shoppers are showing improvement from the past two dismal, recession-ridden selling seasons. But a hesitation still lingers when it comes to ‘recovering’ to pre-recession levels.”
Apparel will top many a gift list this year. More than half of women plan on buying clothes a s gifts or apparel store gift cards this holiday season, according to the Monitor survey. Among women who buy holiday gifts, 72% are planning on buying gift cards (56% of that for clothing stores), followed by clothes (58%) and fashion accessories (30%).
Dillard’s Midwest is prepared to offer “our usual special purchases with incredible pricing with the trends represented in all categories,” says Jerry Talamantes, director, special events and public relations. “And most certainly there will be an online presence that will be romanced for the holidays.”
Goodfellow expects to see more creative marketing towards core customers in 2010, “perhaps private sales, advance previews and sneak peeks of holiday merchandise, i.e., before it’s offered to the general public, or through special promotions or discounts
for Facebook fans,” she adds.To that end, Talamantes says Dillard’s will build
its database for holiday through various pre-Black Friday events. A recent drinks and hors d’oeuvres affair at the Fayette Mall in Lexington, KY, featuring equestrian-inspired Lauren Ralph Lauren and Polo apparel attracted international attendees of the nearby
World Equestrian Games. And a November event with Jessica Simpson at the Oak Park Mall in Kansas City will celebrate her new line of denim.
The pre-Thanksgiving events make sense, given that women are almost equally divided in their preference for purchasing gifts in October (17%) and November (14%), versus the after-Thanksgiving sales (19%) and in December (11%), according to Monitor data.
“Then, in the f irst week of December, we have a special shopping night for our best charge customers, offering them cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, entertainment, registry for prizes and free gift wrap,” Talamantes says. Extended holiday hours are also part of the mix.
Among women planning to buy apparel as gifts, the Monitor finds 71% plan on spending the same amount this year as last, with the figure rising to 76% among those age 35-to-70. An average of 9% plan to spend more, increasing to 12% of 13-to-34 year olds.
Women’s top apparel gift purchases are expected to be T-shirts (55%), sleepwear (51%), sweaters (47%), jeans (36%), (the old standby) socks (33%) and outerwear (32%), according to Monitor data.
Goodfellow say retailers should be foremost focused on price.
“While consumers are feeling better about spending for the holidays versus the past two years,
they stil l remain very much budget-conscious,” she says. “Many learned a big financial lesson as a result of the recession and are making every dollar count when spending – and saving, which makes Black Friday deals still very enticing.”
Adds Davidowitz, “If you want to understand where the consumer is in apparel, look at the last 18 months and the strong sales at TJ Maxx and Ross. The luxury stores are opening discount venues but how
many regular stores are they opening? Zero,” he states. “I give retailers credit for adapting, because in this environment, it’s adapt or die. They understand they have to change their mix.”
That is where the perceived value comes into play. Goodfellow says an economic setback could easily lead shoppers to tighten their wallets all over again. “It’s up to retailers to make sure consumers feel confident in their purchase decisions. A great Black Friday deal is a good way to get the ball rolling.”
“Shoppers are showing
improvement from
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selling seasons, but a
hesitation still lingers.”Pamela J. Goodfellow, BIGresearch
Retailers Hope for a Brighter HolidayWary Consumers Still Looking for Value, Price
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Gift Cards
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Fashion Accessories
Electronics
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What Items Do you Plan to Buy as Gifts This Holiday Season?
(Among Women Who Plan to Buy)
This article is one in a series that appears in these pages on Thursdays. The data contained is based on findings from the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ survey, a consumer attitudinal study, as well as upon other of the company’s industrial indicators including its Retail Monitor and Supply Chain Insights analyses. A digital version of this column and other relevant information can be found at CottonLifestyleMonitor.com.
MOST OF THE WELL-DRESSED women gathered at Christie’s Tuesday evening for a dinner honoring fine jeweler Cindy Chao weren’t the sort to bust out the bling. But neither is Chao herself. “I usually don’t wear jewelry,” said Chao, adorned only in a 25-carat sapphire knuckle-duster with 10-carats of diamonds “just for tonight.”
Guests including co-hosts Lauren DuPont and Hamilton South, who is Chao’s publicist, Wendi Murdoch, Aerin Lauder, Renee Rockefeller and Marjorie Gubelmann had a chance to slip on pieces from Chao’s Black Label Masterpiece collection, such as a 44-carat emerald ring and 7-carat fancy yellow diamond cuff. No one took anything home, maybe because prices start at $300,000 (and there were at least five guards in the room). But there’s always Chao’s “more accessible” White Label collection, which has landed at Bergdorf Goodman. Prices start at $11,500.
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NEW YORK — Fashion certainly isn’t lacking for art collaborations. But Cecilia Dean, editor and co-founder of Visionaire, and David Colman of The New York Times are hoping to take those frequent bedfellows into a whole new arena with an exhibit at MoMA PS1. Named “Move!,” the two-day event, on Oct. 30 and 31, will feature 12 artist-designer collaborations — Terence Koh with Italo Zucchelli of Calvin Klein, Brody Condon with Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy, Jonah Bokaer with Narciso Rodriguez, Mary Ellen Carroll with Thom Browne, among others. The point of differ-ence here? They’re all doing interactive performance-based installations. “It’s not about how I can use your art to make my fashion look better,” says Cynthia Rowley, who’s working with Olaf Breuning, “or how you can make a garment from your art.”
So while some of the partnerships are more straightforward — Kalup Linzy will be wearing Diane von Furstenberg as he performs, while Rashaad Newsome recre-ates his “Shade Compositions” with danc-ers dressed in Alexander Wang — others are far more involved. Marc Jacobs is team-ing up with Rob Pruitt to riff the runway concept; Dan Colen’s piece with Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez will involve surveillance cam-eras, and the four Brooklyn artists-cum-club kids known as the Cheryls are host-ing a makeover workshop with American Apparel. Men’s wear designer Robert Geller, meanwhile, will be creating cos-tumes for Ryan McNamara and the scores of dance instructors who will be teaching him (and willing audience members) how to soft-shoe, plié, and, yes, strip dance. “I’m doing a very old-school French boudoir-type of outfit for that one,” remarks Geller.
And then there is Ohne Titel’s Alexa Adams and Flora Gill’s collaboration with Tauba Auerbach — their second, in fact. The designers already worked with Auerbach on jewelry for their spring run-way. This new project is “much more in-tegrated,” Adams teases. “We’re explor-ing the thought process.” Things to expect here: a two-tone room, dancers clustered together in an undulating knot and lots and lots of bodysuits.
The PS1 art-style mash-up was actu-ally initiated last year by director Klaus Biesenbach, who invited a number of edi-tors and designers to the museum with one request: find an interesting way to bring fashion to the institution. “Cecilia and I were of a similar mind-set,” says Colman of how he and Dean scored the co-curator titles. “Doing another fashion week there was not terribly appealing to us.” But the current performance-based hook didn’t gel until this summer, when Dean visited the Tino Sehgal and Marina Abramovic shows at the Guggenheim and MoMA. “The exhib-its weren’t about going to a space and look-ing at stuff on a wall,” says Dean. “You had to go and experience and deal with a par-ticular situation.”
As for the grammatically charged moni-ker, she explains, “The performances will be moving, but we also wanted the audi-ence to be moving around. It’s a very fluid exhibit. I also want people to come, have fun and be moved like I was by [Sehgal’s and Abramovic’s] shows. Adds Colman, “ ‘Experiential’ is going to be on the Merriam-Webster hot-word list for 2010.”
Move! will be admission-free and open to the public. A Halloween party, hosted by Visionaire, will cap off events on the 31st.
— Venessa Lau
On the Move
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NEW YORK — “Keep up with Ralph Lauren,” a senior Polo Ralph Lauren staff-er announced. “He will lead the walk.”
That was the mantra early Wednesday morning, when Lauren assembled a few hundred members of his staff at Manhattan’s Grand Army Plaza to kick off the company’s annual Pink Pony Walk, snaking through Central Park for nearly two miles.
Lauren just marked the 10th anniversary of the charitable program, which he launched to raise cancer awareness and support programs for cancer screen-ing, early diagnosis, treatment, research and patient navigation. That morning, the designer recalled his impetus for his campaign to fight cancer. In the late Eighties, then-Washington Post fashion editor Nina Hyde approached Lauren after she was diagnosed with breast cancer. Vowing to help, he has since worked on multiple initiatives to raise awareness and funds to combat cancer, and that
spirit has permeated the culture of the company. On Wednesday, his staff, including Buffy Birrittella, Wayne Meichner, Charles Fagan and Bette-Ann Gwathmey, turned out in force. They were all dressed for the walk head-to-toe in black, accentu-ated only by the Pink Pony motif on the special black T-shirts Lauren created for the walk. Employees outside of New York were walking too. “In Geneva, Hong Kong, Japan and
London, our colleagues will walk in the days to come,” Lauren said.As part of the milestone, Polo teamed with Charitybuzz.com for an online
Pink Pony auction featuring such lots as a three-night stay at the Round Hill Resort in Montego Bay, Jamaica; a Paris weekend with dinner at the Ralph’s restaurant; tickets to a Miami Heat game and the chance to meet LeBron James; a CNN Studio tour with Anderson Cooper, and a chance to play polo in Palm Beach with Nacho Figueras. Net proceeds of the auction, which ends Oct. 21, will benefit the Pink Pony Fund. “The goal is $1 million,” said David Lauren, senior vice president of advertising, marketing and corporate communications.
— Marc Karimzadeh
For more images, see WWD.com/eyescoop.
Lauren Leads Cancer Charity Walk
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! Aerin Lauder and Renée Rockefeller; Cindy Chao in Giorgio Armani. ! Wendi Murdoch in Prabal Gurung; Lauren DuPont in Marni.
Ralph Lauren with his fellow walkers.
Ralph Lauren with his fellow walkers.
ANOTHER CHIEF: Condé Nast added to its fast growing c-suite on Wednesday with the promotion of human resources head Jill Bright to chief administrative officer. In an e-mail to employees that described the move, chief executive officer Chuck Townsend and president Robert Sauerberg presented the post as something of a bureaucratic catchall from which Bright will oversee “organizational effectiveness” and give “guidance on people, productivity and alignment,” among other duties. The position will also give Bright domain over the corporate communications department, where chief communications officer Maurie Perl had previously reported directly to Townsend. Bright’s promotion is another step in an executive facelift that began at the company earlier this year when Townsend relinquished the president’s title to Sauerberg. The company has also promoted Louis Cona to chief marketing officer and brought on Joe Simon as chief technology officer. — Matthew Lynch
BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE: People magazine has found a new fountain of ad dollars in at least one sector — beauty. The title will publish a 20-page section in the upcoming issue, out Friday, that will be sponsored by Maybelline and Garnier with approximately 12 pages of advertising. “We’re not going to do this every week,” said managing editor Larry Hackett. “And we’re not trying to play on the same block as [People] StyleWatch, but I think there’s room for both of us.” And watch out all you fashion titles out there — People sees ad dollars there, too. “We’d like to do something similar with fashion,” Hackett admitted.
As People expands its ad reach in beauty, another weekly, New York, is benefiting from the bridal industry even as weddings decline because of the economy. The winter 2011 edition of New York Weddings, on newsstands next week, will be up 35 percent in ad pages compared to a year ago and, combined with the summer 2010 issue, the weddings franchise is up 34 percent for the year. Publisher Larry Burstein said the wedding business at New York has experienced four years of growth, and is up 58 percent since 2005. — Amy Wicks
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Louis Vuitton: Marc Jacobs has mastered the fashion flip-flop like no one else. But abandoning Brigitte Bardot for Susan Sontag sounds wacky even by his standards. For Louis Vuitton’s spring collection, Jacobs left fall’s voluptuous retro beauty behind, lured not by the writer’s sartorial style, but by her musings on camp, a snippet of which he tacked to his studio wall as he worked on the collection and then distributed to guests at his show. “The relationship between boredom and camp cannot be overestimated…,” Sontag wrote, adding that camp taste is only possible “in societies or circles capable of experiencing the psychopathology of affluence.” Hmm, doesn’t sound like a compliment, to Vuitton or its customers. But Jacobs is nothing if not fearless, and who can deny that, for those who love it, fashion is the ultimate antidote to boredom?
No ennui was possible here as Jacobs went for flash, razzle and dazzle. He started with elements he called clichés of camp. Thus, the explosion of chinoiserie, animalia, beading, fringe, prints, LV monogrammed lace, cheesy Art Deco and Art Nouveau riffs and color, color, color. His favorite dress is a bright, shiny-surfaced cheongsam, sometimes tasseled to the hilt, but a Thirties-ish variation on a Leonard print will do, too. And why go for mere zebra stripes when you can pair them with a giant zebra likeness on the back of a cape? Similarly, a white pantsuit provided a canvas for giraffe portraiture. And because he couldn’t get enough of the animal motif, Jacobs sculpted the heels of his shoes — at LV, flats were so last season — after the legs of the aforementioned beasts. As for the bags, they were bright, highly decorated and fabulous.
Jacobs presented it all in an eight-minute whirlwind that served as a fashion Red Bull for his exhausted audience. It may not have been his most stellar or controversial outing for Vuitton, but it was playful, exuberant and glam, bam, thank you ma’am. And a whole lot of fun.PH
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TALK ABOUT SNAP, CRACKLE AND POP. MARC JACOBS’ LOUIS VUITTON COLLECTION WAS CAMPY, KITSCHY AND DAZZLING, WHILE MIUCCIA PRADA’S MIU MIU LOOKS TARGETED FAME SEEKERS WITH GRAPHIC, VIVIDLY COLORED LOOKS.FUN-DERBOLT
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton
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For full runs of show, see WWD.com/fashion-shows-reviews.
Miu Miu: There was no missing Rihanna — her hair a bright, artificial red — in the front row at Miu Miu, a beacon for photographers and a fitting mascot for the bold and fun collection Miuccia Prada presented at the tail end of Paris Fashion Week. “Loud” is the title of Rihanna’s new album, and you could say the same about the searing colors and the Biff! Bam! Pow! motifs — mostly stars and lightning bolts, along with the odd swan — that jolted unapologetically pretty dresses. The Miu Miu girl has dumped sweet and moved on to something far more graphic and exciting.
Backstage, Prada said the collection sprung from the obsession people have with performance. “Everybody wants to be a star,” she said, her own petite frame elevated by the platform brogues she had paraded in Milan. “You want to have your 15 minutes of fame.” There was certainly a touch of country crooner — or Elvis Presley — to the silver and gold bomber jackets, appliquéd with naïve flowers or comic-book graphics, that paraded through a circus-tent set plunked in the Palais-Royal. Some, with superhero shoulders, looked ready only for the stage.
But in a season rife with knife pleats, Prada showed her mettle with her favorite silhouette: the A-line skirt. There were kilts galore — some festooned with big stars; others swishing with contrasting panels of glossy satin. Dresses, in lustrous, made-for-TV hues, sometimes sprouted rays of pleats in contrasting colors, or leather straps in fanlike shapes and neon colors. In these demonstrative clothes, it’s a snap to look almost famous.
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Hermès: Swoosh — the giant black velvet curtains at the head of the runway opened to reveal an impressive dressage show under way in a makeshift paddock, with giant crystal chandeliers overhead. Cue frenetic, stomping flamenco music and — with head bent down — out strode a gaucho-ed, whip-wielding Karlie Kloss in a harnessed black leather bustier catsuit and black shirt. It was a hot-blooded opening to a splendid swan song collection from Jean Paul Gaultier at Hermès.
Since his arrival at the luxury company in 2008, Gaultier has managed to impose his wild card signature on the house’s formidable bourgeois foundations without losing any of the rigor and soigné craftsmanship inherent to Hermès. Channeling a horse’s noblesse with smooth rounded jodhpur shapes, the collection was infused with sexual tension — whip-style belts and reshaped Kelly purses were strapped around the torso, and molded leather corsets were used to harness the body. But it was essentially a classic affair. Chic fluid pantsuits, especially one in blood red, were to die for, as were wrap-over white shirts. There was a multitude of leather, from apron skirts in buttery skins as soft as woven fabric, to a translucent croc-effect jacket with a matching Kelly bag, and corduroylike finishes on jackets that looked as easy as cardigans. With a pop of Hermès orange on a crepe tunic dress, a lovely spectrum of browns dominated — butterscotch, tobacco and dark chocolate. The whole made for a sleek, chic, covetable affair, as Gaultier galloped out in a cloud of red dust to take his final bow at the house.
Kenzo: Antonio Marras orchestrated a magical, witty finale for the house’s 40th-anniversary show at the Cirque d’Hiver, rolling out a whole village of folkloric Kenzo babushka dolls decked in pileups of pieces from the house’s archives. Shuffling out on colored, geta-inspired woodblock shoes, each model silently took her position on the turning circular stage, forming a joyous explosion of colors and textures. In the lead-up, the spring collection focused on voluminous dresses, some resembling oversize shirts, worn over colored bras and carrying a multitude of drawstrings that
were tugged on to vary volumes. Motifs, the house’s DNA, ran from pretty kimono prints to more Mediterranean graphic stripes and floral wallpaper styles, some climbing with frayed floral appliqués. The pieces looked difficult to handle on a daily basis, but had a serene charm.
Elie Saab: A loping disco beat announced a Seventies theme, and out strolled Anja Rubik in fluttering satin palazzo pants and a draped top, both in bitter green. Imagining that era’s jet-set led Saab into some new fashion territory. There were straight-lined jumpsuits and lean pantsuits in dusty blues and gray. Worn with platform shoes and gobs of gold jewelry, they brought to mind some of the style icons listed in Saab’s program notes, Bianca Jagger and Lauren Hutton among them. But Saab is a sucker for chiffon fluttering from shoulders and dense sequins embedded in shredded chiffon. Studio 54 was just a detour — the heart of this collection was showy, red-carpet gowns for modern-day starlets who have yet to wean themselves off glitz.
Moncler Gamme Rouge: Moncler hit the music festival circuit for spring — Burning Man, to be precise. Giambattista Valli said he based the collection on snaps of young socials Eugenie Niarchos, Tatiana Santo Domingo and Margherita Missoni, who attended the event. But if Valli’s fun and quirky homage was anything to go by, these girls are not the Wellington boots and tie-dye smock types. He presented the collection as a performance, with the help of dry ice and munchkinlike dancers who rolled and pranced about the space in leotards, puffy tops and goggles. Weaving among them, statuesque models — made all the taller by their towering turbans — wore sporty tunics and coats done in couture and technical fabrics. Ikat silks and bright oriental and chintzy floral silk brocades were jostled with waterproof silk taffetas, polyester and nylon — the mix broken by black pockets and zippers and Day-Glo trims.
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LEADING LADIES: That Léa Seydoux and Jean-Paul Goude were seated side by side at the Miu Miu show was hardly a coincidence. Word has it the two are set to collaborate on a new fragrance campaign for Prada. The young French actress said she’s also about to start work on a Benoît Jacquot film about Marie Antoinette that will feature Eva Green, as well. “I’m playing a young reader,” she whispered. “Alice in Wonderland” star Mia Wasikowska said she has two films out early next year. First up is Gus Van Sant’s “Restless,” and the young actress is also playing the lead in “Jane Eyre.” Italian actress
Valeria Golino — best known for her turn in “Rain Man” — spent the summer filming the French movie “Butterfly Kiss,” due out at Christmas. In it, she plays a lady who is dying. “It was a little bit painful,” she sighed.
Dakota Fanning said she’ll be reprising her role as Jane in the “Twilight” series when filming resumes later this year. “Once I’d read the books, I was definitely a vampire fan,” she said. Rihanna talked up her new album — “It’s energetic, fun, full of swagger and sass,” she said, and gave a thumbs-up to the show music, which featured generous helpings of Edvard Grieg.
OUT OF AFRICA: Bono, who appears in Louis Vuitton’s latest “core values” campaign and is a co-founder of ethical brand Edun, made a brief but enthralling appearance on stage Tuesday night as the French brand put the spotlight on Africa, where Edun encourages sustainable enterprise. He did a duet with Angélique Kidjo, a Grammy Award-winning singer from Benin, in West Africa. “Today I am at fashion week. There’s hope for all of us. I’d never have believed it,” Kidjo enthused after her rousing set. Jessica Chastain, Elisa Sednaoui, Margareth Madè and Fan Bingbing were among the actresses who toured a temporary exhibition of contemporary African art before clustering in front of the stage, along with Delphine and Antoine Arnault, to catch a glimpse of the Irish rock hero.
“Bono had never done any advertising before. The only reason he did this was because we are committed to helping the Edun project through this event,” said Vuitton chief executive officer Yves Carcelle. “The exhibition is not about poor Africa, but living Africa.”
Naomi Campbell made a beeline for pop star Shingai Shinowa. The pair had been introduced earlier in the week and bonded over their Streatham (a district of South London) roots. Campbell said her handbag project with Louis Vuitton to raise money for the White Ribbon Alliance for Safe Motherhood had raised 110,000 euros, or about $151,000 at current exchange.
Model-turned-designer Daisy Lowe said she was eagerly awaiting her debut collection for Morgan, which goes on sale early November. “It was cool to use my brain,” she said. Architect Peter Marino, wearing black leather cuffs and a chest harness, let slip that he’s been contracted to design the new boutique concept for Celine.
FASHION SCOOPS
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Mia Wasikowska
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Rihanna
By Jean E. Palmieri
SAKS FIFTH AVENUE IS SHINING THE SPOTLIGHT ON THE GROWING MEN’S accessories business for fall.
The retailer has unveiled an updated presentation and expanded assortment on the sixth floor of its New York flagship, one that boasts the only Gucci, David Yurman and Scott Kay men’s accessories shops in a department store.
“We started working on this about a year ago,” said Tom Ott, senior vice pres-ident and general merchandise manager of men’s wear for the retailer. “Our thought was to make this the most exciting place in the city for men to shop for accessories.”
The presentation is centered on “branded buildouts,” or distinct shops or cases for brands including Mont Blanc, Tod’s, Gucci, Ferragamo, Cartier, David Yurman and Scott Kay. The only stumbling block was that most did not have a separate “ac-cessories aesthetic,” Ott said, requiring the retailer to work closely with the labels to create boutiques to showcase their merchandise.
At the same time, the lighting and the cases on the floor were updated to make it easier for customers to see the merchandise. “It seems like common sense, but we’ve really learned how to showcase accessories more effectively,” he said.
The mix is essentially the same, but the number of items from each brand has been increased. “We’ve really enhanced the watch assortment,” said Shawn Pean, men’s accessories buyer, pointing to Longines, TW Steel, TX, Tissot, Briel, Swiss Army and Phillip Watch, which is exclusive. High-voltage lighting helps show off the oversize dials and colorful offerings in the assortment.
The new accessories area was completed Friday and Louis Digiacomo, vice president and divisional merchandise manager of accessories, said large leather goods, such as briefcases from Ferragamo and Mont Blanc, were strong sellers right out of the box. “They did well over the weekend,” he said. Ott said briefcases are “one of our best performing categories. Men are now more concerned with hav-ing the right bag for different occasions.”
Ott said the Saks stores in Tysons Corner in Virginia, Las Vegas and Beverly Hills were the first to install updated accessories areas around two years ago, and the results were significant enough to warrant the investment in New York. “They were more in need of an overhaul,” Ott explained.
He said there was never any thought of installing the accessories presentation on the main floor in New York, however. “Men feel more comfortable shopping in a man’s environment,” he said. “So it was never a consideration.”
Although he declined to provide a volume projection or expected increase, he said: “We expect the growth will be significant. When you showcase a product cat-egory in this way and offer this lineup of brands, the increase will be terrific.”
The more contemporary seventh floor is also offering an enhanced accessories presentation, although it’s still “a work in progress,” Pean said, noting that the plan is to add branded shops here as well. Right now, the focus is on vendors such as Alexander McQueen, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Rag & Bone, Jack Spade, D&G and Paul Smith. “We’re going to make this a home for more-modern accessories,” Ott said, noting the “seventh floor customer is more of a shopper and reacts to this merchan-dise.” Ott said the plan is to roll out the concept to other Saks Fifth Avenue stores around the country and he is currently “reviewing a list” of possible stores.
WWD.COM8 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2010
Men’s
BIELLA, ITALY-BASED TEXTILE MILL CARLO BARBERA has found its white knight in Kiton, the Neapolitan tai-lored clothing company established in 1956 by Ciro Paone.
During a fashion preview in New York City on Wednesday, Antonio De Matteis, Kiton’s chief executive offi-cer, revealed his company has purchased a controlling stake in the mill, which has been weighed down by financial prob-lems. He said the purchase price was 3.3 million euros, or $4.5 million at current exchange. The deal does not include the Luciano Barbera clothing line that is available at luxury stores such as Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman.
Founded in 1949 by Carlo Barbera, the high-end yarn manufacturer is managed by his son Luciano Barbera, a staunch supporter of the Made in Italy label. Competition from low-cost manufacturing countries has bitten into Carlo Barbera’s bottom line over the past few years.
De Matteis said Luciano Barbera will act as a consul-tant for the mill and its 40 employees will be retained. Corrado Barbera, who currently heads the facility, will be in charge of sales, Kiton said.
“Barbera is one of the best fabric mills in Italy,” De Matteis said. “We think we will have a good future togeth-er.” He said Kiton does not currently have its own fabric operation but has used Barbera as a supplier for many years. He said that while Barbera is expected to be “a bigger and bigger supplier to our collection, we will still use other mills in Italy and England.”
De Matteis said Kiton, which is known for high-end tai-lored clothing and sportswear, has experienced a 30 per-cent increase in sales through September of this year over 2009. He noted that sales in department stores in the U.S. have been especially strong. The newly launched Cipa line, which is a less expensive alternative, is also perform-ing well, De Matteis said, and the company will continue with its current distribution, which is exclusive to Bergdorf Goodman and select Neiman Marcus stores for next season.
In addition to its wholesale business, Kiton operates 35 stores around the world, including a New York City flag-ship and a unit in Las Vegas. Next month, a store is slated to open in the Bal Harbour Shops in Florida, De Matteis said, which will be located between Hermès and Louis Vuitton.
— Kerry Olsen and J.E.P.
Kiton Buys Interest in Barbera
Saks Enhances Accessories Presentation
JACK BLACK IS AIMING TO MAKE a statement in fragrance with JB Eau de Parfum, its first stand-alone scent, due out later this month.
The men’s grooming firm, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, created the scent along with fragrance supplier Robertet, and aromas found in the existing Jack Black product assortment in-spired the new fragrance.
“It’s a very important year for us,” said Emily Dalton, who founded Jack Black along with Curran Dandurand. “As we were thinking about a decade of grooming, we reflected on the core of Jack Black — we focus on [key] in-gredients for formulations.”
“The partnership with Jack Black was important because they wanted natural ingredients,” said Lorene Broc, senior vice president of fine fra-grance at Robertet’s New York creative center. She noted that Grasse, France-based Robertet SA has been sourcing ingredients from certain farms for more than four generations.
Perfumer Jerome Epinette com-posed JB Eau de Parfum, a woody, aro-matic, spicy scent that took about a year to develop. The 18 percent essential oil blend opens with a “sparkling” accord com-prising notes of tangerine, spicy black pepper and peppermint, while the heart of the scent features elemi coeur, geranium coeur, eucalyptus and tiger or-chid. The fragrance dries down into notes of smoky papyrus, black amber and blond woods.
When briefed by Jack Black, Epinette was given a “vi-sual inspiration board” chockablock with masculine im-agery. “I wanted to bring the man of today to life through scent,” he said. “I was inspired by the botanicals from Jack Black’s grooming heritage.” In particular, the peppermint,
geranium and tangerine are key notes.Dalton, who contends that JB Eau de
Parfum’s “exotic, new” olfactive notes complement existing aromas in the line, noted the scent’s tag line, “Seek truth, not trends,” is meant to resound with the at-titudes of the target audience.
The blocklike heavy glass bottle, produced by Verreries Brosse, is meant to have a utilitarian feel. A motorcycle-inspired chrome-finish cap tops the amber-colored fragrance.
The 3.4-oz. $70 scent will first be in-troduced at Nordstrom, where it will be carried exclusively for two weeks before reaching Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s and Saks Fifth Avenue in November. Plans call for the fra-grance to be carried in 500 doors ini-tially, before rolling out to roughly 900 doors, according to Dalton.
Industry sources estimate the scent could generate close to $2 million in first-year retail sales.
To promote JB Eau de Parfum, the brand will hold events showcasing the raw materials used in the scent — “to emphasize [its] craftsmanship,” said
Dalton. The brand has a team of about 100 people who will work with store personnel
on the events and sampling — an effort that initially includes 50,000 sample units.
Jack Black has dabbled in the fragrance arena before. Five years ago, it launched a trio inspired by “gentlemanly…premium liquor” that was dubbed Liquid Magnetism and comprises the Signature Black Mark, Silver Mark and Blue Mark scents.
This time around, “We were looking for something artisan,” said Dalton. “This is very different, a syn-ergistic, olfactive link back to shaving, skin care and grooming. Fragrance is the finishing touch.”
— Matthew W. Evans
The Gucci shop is the first of its kind.
The new area features vendor buildouts.
The watch assortment
has been enhanced.
Jack Black Makes Fine Fragrance Foray
men’scorner
JB Eau de Parfum
MACY’S ALFRED ANGELOAM RESORTS BARI JAYBED BATH & BEYONDBEL AIRE BRIDALBERNARDAUD CASABLANCA CRATE & BARREL DONNA KARAN HOME
TRITON JUSTIN ALEXANDER KLEINFELD MANHATTANLE SPOSE DI GIOMAKE UP FOR EVER MARK INGRAM BRIDAL ATELIER MIKAELLANAUTICA HOME ONEIDAPALOMA BLANCA
PANTENE PETER LANGNERROSA CLARATISSOTTLCVERA WANGWATERFORD CRYSTALWATTERSWEDGWOOD
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Share the love through White Hot Hope, the month-long, nationwide retail program featuring events and promotions, exclusive deals and custom designs—all to benefit the work of Operation Smile and Dress for Success.
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WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 7, 201010
Lanvin, Haider Ackermann, Valentino, Givenchy, Balenciaga, Rick Owens, Celine and Akris.
They also praised two anticipated debuts: Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen and Giles Deacon at Emanuel Ungaro.
“There was overall more optimism than in the past few seasons. Everyone’s firmly convinced we’ve turned a corner,” noted Ed Burstell, managing director at Liberty of London.
“We’re feeling really optimistic with all the color, light-ness and beautiful clothing,” said Jeffrey Kalinsky, execu-tive vice president of designer merchandising, Nordstrom. “We always find Paris to be wonderfully individualistic.”
He said Norstrom’s four favorite collections — Dries Van Noten, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Lanvin — offered “real clothes for real women” that were chic and modern.
But stress levels ran high as the crowded schedule and far-flung venues caused long delays, while a travel alert issued by the U.S. State Department on Sunday, warning of a risk of terrorist attacks, revived buried fears for many attendees who were in New York on Sept. 11, 2001.
New names that caught notice included Hakaan Yildirim, Anthony Vaccarello, Lahssan, Harry Halim and Felipe Oliveira Baptista.
Here, a look at buyers’ favorites and the key trends for spring as seen in Paris.
Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store pre-sentation, Bergdorf GoodmanTrendspotting: Strong color, prints derived from nature, longer lengths, feminine interpretations on men’s wear, YSL. “We are noting crisp white shirt dressing, great trousers, vivid color as items, colorblocking in accesso-ries and unique pieces with strength of character. We felt that Paris was especially strong in luxury materials and workmanship, and unique directional product.”Sound off: “We were concerned about the high security alerts but recommended that our teams utilize cars and taxis versus any public transport. We will collectively wrap up the season tired, but very satisfied and en-thused to bring it all home.” Barbara Atkin, vice president and fashion director, Holt RenfrewTrendspotting: “Short hemlines coexisted with floor-grazing lengths. We saw the fragile and the structured, the masculine and the feminine. The Paris collections have translated into options for the customer: Pleating, longer lengths, androgyny, punk, sheer layers, cutout details, stripes, leather, tailored denim and Seventies influences are some of the trends we are seeing.”
Sound off: “With the popularity of live-streaming, we will have to better understand how the retailer can service a customer who now has access to a season that has not yet been delivered to the stores. Current retail inventories may no longer support the trends that the customer sees online.”
Ed Burstell, managing director, Liberty of LondonTrendspotting: White, as seen at Dries Van Noten; long lengths, especially at Alexander McQueen; tailoring; leather for spring; pleating; pop color. “Carmen Cass in that diapha-nous cornflower blue top at John Galliano was gorgeous.”Sound off: “I think there’s going to be some boredom for minimalism. I’m not sure everyone’s willing to walk away from things that are a little more fun and sexy to [looks more suited to] a Connecticut soccer mom head-ing for lunch.” Burstell added, “The Goth and the punk should be left to the experts.”
Nicole Fischelis, group vice president and fashion director, Macy’sTrendspotting: White; neons; stripes; prints; “lace, lace, lace” and macramé; transparencies and layering; biker influences; shirting; the Seventies as seen by Yves Saint Laurent — peasant blouses, jumpsuits, new lengths. Sound off: “Getting from location to location is an inevi-table part of this job. It will always be that way, unless designers suddenly decide to show their collections in a different way. In fact, we saw more collections pre-sented in a static environment this season in formats that were successful and actually allowed you to see the clothes up close. We are probably in a period of transi-tion, where some collections perhaps don’t need to be shown on the runway.”
Ken Downing, senior vice president, fashion director, Neiman MarcusTrendspotting: “Paris has been an interesting juxtaposi-tion: The effusive, Yves Saint Laurent fever with rich peasant, bohemian look on one side, and pared-down chic, with the love of white on the other. A woman has to have pinks, oranges and coral in her wardrobe next season, and floral prints of all kinds.”Sound off: “I’m not feeling this punk spirit with great enthu-siasm. It’s an interesting mood no one was anticipating.”
Linda Dresner, owner, Linda Dresner, Birmingham, Mich. Trendspotting: “The punk spirit was certainly a strong trend. A long fluid skirt will certainly be a key item to drive business this spring as a new silhouette. Prints were a strong presence also in the collections.”Sound off: “The shows were overcrowded, hot and uncom-fortable. It is exhausting and a struggle to inconvenient locations. The present organization concept is dated.”
Sarah Rutson, fashion director, Lane CrawfordTrendspotting: “The customer has had enough of neutrals from fall. We need to set the sales floor alive with color and print. Also longer lengths for sure: knife- and sun-ray pleated skirts, the pant and skirt with shirting, and the jacket has overtaken the dress. Flat shoes again are the major choice. However, we continue to sell strongly the highest, most extreme heels and shoe styles.”
Colleen Sherin, fashion director, Saks Fifth AvenueTrendspotting: An interplay of masculine-feminine elements, and bold, vibrant color, worked in color-blocked or mono-chromatic ways. “I feel I saw more monochromatic head-to-toe looks.” Feathers replace fringe as the embellishment of choice. The minimal refinement of easy-chic, wide-leg fluid trousers, tunics, shirts and longer-length skirts and dresses, often pleated, “feels right,” said Sherin, adding she particularly liked the cotton poplin shirts at Celine.Sound off: “None, it was a smooth and positive week.”
Kelly Golden, owner, Neapolitan, Winnetka, Ill.Trendspotting: “Important trends are peasant blouses, elongated silhouettes, flared pants and monochromatic minimal looks. My clients want to look good every day, not just on special occasions, and Paris offered them plenty of options. I think the focus has been shifting to daywear, and away from the over-the-top cocktail attire. The Seventies, chic bohemian feeling continued. My clients will absolutely appreciate all of the flat sandals and shoes that were popular this season.” Nicholas Mellamphy, creative director of The Room, Hudson’s Bay Co., TorontoTrendspotting: “Paris was softer and gentler than the other cities on the tour. The color palette was more muted, with many pale pastels. The softness continued into the fab-rics. The dress and skirt lengths continue to be interest-ing. Overall, a sense of optimism swept the collections. Paris seemed to be in an even more individualistic state.” Patricia Bagattini, head buyer, DasluTrendspotting: White, black and pale pink, animal prints. “Leopard print is the new black — it was a big element of the collections, both in terms of clothes and accesso-ries, and we see animal prints being a recurring theme. A lot of collections, like Valentino, were more feminine. We’re seeing a lot of ruffles, which work really well for us. Yves Saint Laurent was a defining collection in a sea-son where many people were inspired by its founder.”Sound off: “Because the whole market is changing, we’ve been looking at more brands and different designers.
Dries Van Noten Chanel
Celine John Galliano
Haider Ackerman
Continued from page one
Paris Verdict: Buyers Praise Trends
WWD.COMWWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2010 11
You just want to see more and, all of a sudden, every-thing is too crammed. It was very intense but very prom-ising. We were very excited about this market.”
Andrew Keith, president, JoyceTrendspotting: “We felt it was an interesting season for Paris, with diverse approaches from many designers. With exceptional performances from all of our Paris brands for spring-summer and a very strong start for fall-winter, we are on the market with increased budgets and looking for innovation and a point of difference. We felt that it was an interesting season for Paris, with di-verse approaches from many designers.”
Averyl Oates, chief buying director, Harvey Nichols, LondonTrendspotting: “White, again, was prominent, as was the new longer length, sheer and draping.” Oates said her team was confident about the explosion of color; true reflections of each brand’s DNA, and the “exciting con-trast” of silhouettes from short to leaner and longer. For Oates, the revival of the Seventies trend reflects the mood of that period today, “when we are looking for inspiration and a positive outlook towards the future.”
Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director, Barneys New York: Trendspotting: Gilhart said the season was full of prints,
bright colors and lace. “Paris nailed the season’s trends and gave us our one and only ‘fashion moment’ at Lanvin, with five beautiful models walking like female warriors in a mixture of prints. There was a black-and-white story that permeated everywhere, many times with an undertone of punk.”Sound off: “It was a great season. The big concern for us is how to translate the things we loved into business. We are working on new and innovated ways that can entice our customer. The economy is still fragile so we have to be strong to get the customer to buy. We have to keep giving her more intelligent, authentic reasons to want to spend the money on fashion.”
Yves Saint Laurent
Balenciaga Junya Watanabe Lanvin
Akris
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