X-Press Fashion Autumn 2013

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AUTUMN 2013

LIFESTYLE | CULTURE | SIGHTS & SOUNDS

STYLE COUNCILSTYLE COUNCIL

2 X-PRESS FASHION AUTUMN

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PUBLISHER/MANAGER: Joe Cipriani EDITOR: Emma Bergmeier DESIGN: Kasia MazurkiewiczSALES & MARKETING MANAGER: Keeley Warren-LangfordLIFESTYLE: Natasha BedersonPRODUCTION: Uli MauersbergRECEPTION: Casey HayesACCOUNTS: Lillian Buckley DISTRIBUTION: [email protected]

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A monument to modernist architecture in the heart of Perth’s CBD, Council House celebrates its 50th year in 2013, and to celebrate, X-Press Fashion was invited inside its hallowed halls to shoot our Autumn editorial, paying homage to the sensational ’60s architecture with suitably retro inspired fashions. From high fashion to the high street, ’60s fashion is back in a big way this Autumn and Winter, with more mini skirts, pointed shoes and geometric prints than you could poke a Mad Men DVD box set at. To fi nd out more about Council House and the architects, designers, artists and City of Perth staff members who contributed to its build and restoration, fl ick over to page 10 for a look at the building’s illustrious history, and be sure to check out the exhibition which will be on show in the building’s foyer until May 23. Read on for fashion news, trend forecasts and plenty of ideas on ways to make it through the cooler months without going stir crazy. From all of us here at X-Press Fashion, we hope you have a warm and wonderful Autumn, and encourage you to make the most of this season’s opportunity to combine the trends and silhouettes of yesteryear with contemporary creations.

Emma BergmeierX-Press Fashion Editor

On the cover Narcisa wears Romance Was Born dress from Zara Bryson $350, wooden necklace from Pigeonhole $39.95, 1960s sunglasses from Bluebird Vintage $155.

Council House: The glazed pavilion-like entry foyer of polished granite fl oors, black ceramic-tiled ceiling and piloti clad in white Sicilian marble and black mosaic tile hints at WA’s sun-bleached landscape.

On this page Narcisa wears top $199 and pants $199 from Gorman at enex100, House of Holland

sunglasses from Poppy Lissiman Addition $249, Runway heels from Betts $99.99

STYLE STYLE COUNCILCOUNCIL


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COLOURBLOCK KNIT JUMPERKaren Millen at Wesley Quarter $195

ALADDIN PUMPMimco at enex100 $249

HOUSE OF HOLLAND SUNGLASSESPoppy Lissiman Addition $249

MIDAS FLATSBetts $69.99

METALLIC SPOT CLUTCHAsos.com $41.06

NOIR NIGHTFALL EARRINGSZaraBryson.com.au $99

TREEHORN BANGLEShopMoose.com.au $47

PANNIKIN STAR ANDOVAL EARRINGS

ShopMoose.com.au $25SHEER SPOT SOCKS

Gorman at enex100 $19

GOLDEN GATE LINEN DRESS FROMGorman at enex100 $269

REFRACTION BAGMelissa at enex100 $69.95

curiosities‘60s Sensation

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DRAW INSPIRATION FROM THIS

SEASON’S KEY TRENDS

Words and illustrations by Claire Mueller

MOD-ON

Make it black and white and twist all night… Get your mod on with clean cuts, sharp lines and box bags in punchy monochromatic patterns.

GRAPHICA

Buy it, use it, break it, fi x it, trash it, change it, mail – upgrade it… to the technologic new take on patchwork. With slabs of biting colour and luxe textures, Aunty Beryl’s quilting project this ain’t. Block in lots of leather, the more reptile the better.

JOIN THE GILD

Go for baroque with lavish embroidery, monumental prints and embellished everything. From top to toe, there isn’t one accessory that wouldn’t benefi t from a bit of extra oomph – get gilding!

FLOWERBOMB

Dark fl orals, digitally enhanced naturals, patterns that spin on forever…layer up print on print on print for a botanical explosion.

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In a surprisingly modern move, the Perth City Council launched a competition in 1959 to fi nd the perfect design for the building, and 61 entries were received from architectural fi rms Australia wide. Melbourne based architects Jeffrey Howlett and Don Bailey came up trumps with their modernist design that would stand alone amongst the colonial era buildings that dominated the Terrace at the time.

In the decades since Queen Elizabeth II offi cially opened Council House, the modernist structure has elicited varied responses from residents and architects alike, some of them not always favourable. In fact, Council House nearly didn’t make it to the big 5-0, with calls from state commissioners to demolish the building in 1994 after it was vacated for the removal of asbestos. Thankfully for lovers of ’60s architecture, the building was restored rather than demolished, and it still stands proudly surrounded by Stirling Gardens on the corner of Barrack Street and St Georges Terrace.

Perth Lord Mayor Lisa Scaffi di counts Council House as one of her favourite city structures, and is thankful that calls for its demolition went unanswered.

“This building engenders such pride in people these days but there are those who in the early ’90s considered it to be ugly and not fi tting with the area’s surrounds. But thinking has turned around over the passing of the years and now its characteristic ’60s style is upheld and recognised and today it is considered as fashionable now as when the Queen cut the ribbon in 1963!” she enthuses.

“The City of Perth Council and staff cherish this home as much as the people of Perth adore it too and for that a great deal of credit must go to the architects and other people of Perth who so strongly campaigned to save it. The Stirling Gardens that surround it and the way it lights up the

Terrace with colour at night does make it a place that so many people, not just those who work inside, can enjoy.”

Building such an impressive structure with the technology and equipment available in the early 1960s was no easy feat, particularly the T shapes on the building’s exterior, which just so happen to be the Lord Mayor’s favourite design detail.

“Without doubt the most powerful impression comes from the T shapes on the building’s exterior. There are 460 of them to be exact and attaching them perfectly in place was a very intensive job indeed. Working out how to tessellate them so they wrapped seamlessly around all sides of the building was quite a mathematical conundrum which our site foreman was able to solve very cleverly with some piano wire, a lead weight and a 44 gallon drum!

“Two men (no safety harnesses, mind you!) spent seven months up on a plank in the air while each one of these beautifully made Ts from the Monier factory, covered in mosaic tiles, was hoisted up by a crane and they were positioned and cemented on. The Ts have practical purposes of acting as sunshades and also as fi re barriers between fl oors but they also give the building a civic and celebratory demeanour I think that’s unlike many other offi ce buildings in the City.”

If you’re interested in fi nding out more about Council House, be sure to head down to 27 St Georges Terrace between now and May 24, to wrap your peepers around the anniversary exhibition, which features original work by a range of Western Australian artists including Maggie Baxter, Helena Bogucki, Sandra Black, Andrew Nicholls and Denise Pepper. For more info visit perth.wa.gov.au/50years. by Emma Bergmeier

Decades of DesignCouncil house

BUILT IN JUST 18 MONTHS – SO THAT IT WOULD BE FINISHED IN TIME FOR THE COMMONWEALTH GAMES IN 1962 – COUNCIL HOUSE CELEBRATES ITS 50TH BIRTHDAY THIS YEAR IN FINE FORM WITH AN EXHIBITION THAT LIFTS THE LID ON THE COLOURFUL HISTORY OF THE ST GEORGES TERRACE � NDMARK.

Council House in 1962


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Photography by Aaron McPolinStyling by Emma BergmeierBeauty by Ali PriceManicure by Heidi EvesAssistant Stylist: Hannah KasmadiModels: Narcisa & Lee @ Scene

STYLE STYLE COUNCILCOUNCIL

Narcisa wears Steele dress $289 and Mezi earrings $199 from Zara Bryson, Lucite purse from Bluebird Vintage $225, Sienna pump from Betts $79.99. Lee wears Austin coat $699, tie-pin shirt $219 and pants $299 from Calibre at enex100, Lucky dress shoes from Betts $139.99.

Architect Jeffrey Howlett’s Coat of Arms sculpture was made in darkened copper by Perth jeweller Geoffrey Allen, acknowledging WA’s sun, swans, and sixth monarch Queen Elizabeth II.


Narcisa wears dress $249, coat $329, scarf $119 and socks $19 from Gorman at enex100, daisy brooch from Bluebird Vintage $55, Eclipse heels from Betts $89.99.

Specially woven carpet was designed by the architects to feature a geometric refl ection of the exterior T motif in blues and mauve, emphasising the natural timbers of the upper fl oors.

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Narcisa wears vintage dress from Bluebird Vintage $95, Pedro Lourenco for Melissa heels from Melissa at enex100 $90.


Narcisa wears dress from Poppy Lissiman Addition $170.

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Narcisa wears check dress from Poppy Lissiman Addition $200, Love/Hate stockings from Pigeonhole $39.95, Midas fl ats from Betts $69.99.


Narcisa wears vintage dress from Bluebird Vintage $85, coat from Gorman at enex100 $369, necklace from Poppy Lissiman Addition $260.

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Tom JarvisChilli Couture’s latest recruit; Tom Jarvis, started hairdressing at the tender age of 15 years at Toni & Guy and fell in love immediately with the hairdressing industry. Now, 7 years on, after having worked a stint in Melbourne, Tom is permanently back in Perth and living his dream as a boutique senior stylist. Tom’s portfolio includes working backstage at various David Jones runway shows, working on performances for Leg Avenue and assisting photo shoots for labels such as Dillettante.

Tom also is very experienced at designing hair for wedding parties and personally loves styling and blow-drying out hair for special occasions. A brilliant colourist; Tom is also inspired by matching an amazing cut to his unique colour designs and draws his inspiration from music, nature, fashion and street art.

Rachael ShawRachael is one of Perth’s leading young emerging hair artists, she started her career at Perth’s city salon Head Offi ce Hair and Body, and then following her apprenticeship with time at Head Studio King St. Rachael’s career has already encompassed numerous award entries and fashion shows in addition to editorial styling for Perth’s magazine scene.

Rachael’s extensive expertise centres around creating beautiful long hair, she also enjoys precision men’s cutting and working with classic designs as well as contempory ‘indie’ styling. Rachael has set her sights on expanding her creative portfolio with ambitions to compete in numerous photographic awards throughout the coming few years and is excited to have that opportunity with the Chilli Couture’s creative team. Rachael is available Tuesdays to Fridays and Friday nights at Chilli Couture.

Australian Hair Fashion Awards2013 Finalists:Chilli Couture - Artistic Team of the YearRachel Walker - West Australian Hairdresser of the YearLaura Jane Gladman - Mens Hairdresserof the YearLauren Nathan - Salon Manager of the YearChilli Couture - Training Provider of the Year

Ph 9328 8814 | 3/117 Brisbane Street, Perth 6000 | [email protected] | www.chillicouture.com.au


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LOVE TO HATE HER? OR HATE TO

LOVE HER? JENNIFER PETERSON-

WARD TAKES A LOOK AT THE

INCREASINGLY POPU� R INDIE

ROM-COM TROPE - THE MANIC

PIXIE DREAM GIRL.

In the world according to Hollywood, men are often portrayed as almighty and powerful - the heroes, saviors, protectors (I could go on) - but sometimes all that pressure can really overwhelm a guy. Enter the Manic Pixie Dream Girl - that girl who exists solely as a vehicle for the angsty, tightly-strung (and usually white) heterosexual male lead to discover himself and make peace with the world around him.

A few years ago a very witty fi lm critic named Nathan Rabin coined the term ‘Manic Pixie Dream Girl’ (otherwise known as a MPDG) to describe a female character archetype he’d noticed popping up increasingly in indie fi lms with a romantic slant.

Though you may not have heard of the term, you’ve most certainly encountered the stereotype: she’s the the free-spirited, usually happy-go-lucky (though sometimes dry and sarcastic - but still always likable) romantic lead who breaks hearts, but still wins affection with her quirkiness and crazy antics.

She is, wrote Rabin, “that bubbly, shallow cinematic creature that exists solely in the fevered imaginations of sensitive writer-directors to teach broodingly soulful young men to embrace life and its infi nite mysteries and adventures”.

Los t in a manic pix ie daydream

Elizabethtown

(500) Days Of Summer

Rabin’s defi nition of the term fi rst appears in a 2007 A.V. Club review of Cameron Crowe’s 2005 rom-com Elizabethtown, starring Kirsten Dunst as a fl irty, fl ighty chatterbox stewardess for whom Orlando Bloom’s brooding protagonist falls.

Due in no small part to the way the term rolls off the tongue, in recent years the MPDG moniker has popped up in fi lm criticism to describe – among others - Natalie Portman in Garden State, Kate Hudson in Almost Famous, Kate Winslet in Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind, Audrey Tautou in Amelie and Zooey Deschanel in basically everything she’s ever been in (see: (500) Days of Summer, Yes Man, The New Girl).

The archetype has even been back-dated to describe female characters in classic screwball comedies - such as Katharine Hepburn’s giggly, scatterbrained heiress character in 1938’s Bringing Up Baby and Sally Field as the perky, surfi ng Gidget in the 1960s sitcom of the same name. However, as Rabin clearly defi nes, MPDG characters tend to be divisive.

“The Manic Pixie Dream Girl is an all-or-nothing-proposition,” he writes. “Audiences either want to marry her instantly (despite

The Manic Pixie Dream Girl being, you know, a fi ctional character) or they want to commit grievous bodily harm against them and their immediate family.”

What he means is that for every girl inspired to don a sundress and thick-rimmed glasses while cycling through the streets on a wicker-basket-adorned fi xie (and if the last few years of fashion have proven anything, it’s that there are a lot of girls willing to cash in on this ideal) there’s someone ready to rant about the lazy screenwriting and unattainable romantic ideals these characters so frequently represent - case in point being feminist blog Jezebel’s oft-cited description of the MPDG as “the scourge of modern cinema”.

Both views are valid, of course, but perhaps it is easier to simply view MPDG, as her name suggests, as nothing more than a dream. As US comedienne Mindy Kaling (in an editorial for The New Yorker) so aptly put it: “The Ethereal Weirdo (or MPDG) appears in a lot of movies, but nowhere else. If she were from real life, people would think she was a homeless woman and would cross the street to avoid her.”


Some might remember the furor over Target Australia’s stocking of MAC products mid last year, selling for 40 per cent lower than

authorised retailers David Jones and Myer. The move remained mostly unnoticed for a short while, before a handful of beauty bloggers compared their own MAC products with items bought in Target and pointed out the packaging and product differences. MAC public relations were advised via social media, and the situation escalated.

Target is still insisting that it purchased the products via a legal wholesaler, whilst MAC is adamant they did not. Regardless, this choice might have stayed unnoticed if the brand had been a different one - beauty bloggers, journalists and internet-shopping enthusiasts can all tell you that a MAC product sold at full price is still suspicious, and a MAC product sold at less than full price is blatantly fake/illegitimate. If the products are proved as fakes – and the court case looks to be ongoing – then Target will have inadvertently

participated in illegal duplicate product sales. If they are proved real – regardless of how old or what condition the product is in – they will have dipped their toe in the grey market.

There are very few beauty lines subject to as much imitation as MAC (another being Urban Decay – the famous NAKED palette saw handfuls of fakes crop up online), so much so that quite often the line is completely avoided except over the counter or through the MAC online store. The imitations are sometimes incredibly realistic and very diffi cult to spot, and even then can only be identifi ed by setting them next to an original product. Many defi ne a fake by how cheap it is comparable to the recommended retail price, though many sophisticated fakes sell their product at MAC prices. MAC is, more than any other cosmetic/beauty line, a minefi eld. It’s wise to Google extensively before purchasing – check eBay feedback, read blogs regarding online stores, and if there’s no info anywhere – don’t

do it. The online community is quick to promote reputable online sellers, whether the brand in question wants them to or not.

A product being old is not always a dealbreaker, depending on the type. Most skincare – with exceptions – should be approached with caution, on two fronts.

Firstly the majority of skincare is in a liquid form – or a gel, or a lotion, something with a substantial base of fl uid in it. Liquids and warmth are breeding grounds for bacteria, and at the best can be considered ‘off’ when it becomes ineffective. At worst there has been documented cases of people having skin reactions to products that have undergone a gradual chemical reaction and are no longer performing as the manufacturer intended. Think of it in Legalese – if it’s over the counter, from a registered, approved seller, you have every right to demand compensation if a product you purchased makes you break out into a colossal rash.

MATTERGrey

MAC Zoom Fast MascaraGREY MARKET COSMETICS AND SKINCARE ARE A MURKY MIDGROUND BETWEEN REPUTABLE SALE AND OTHERWISE, WITH MANY VARYING SHADES IN BETWEEN. IN THE LOOSEST OF DEFINITIONS, GREY MARKET PRODUCTS ARE AUTHENTIC, BUT CAN BE OLD, PARTIALLY USED, TESTERS OR ATTAINED THROUGH DUBIOUS MEANS (WRITTEN OFF STOCK, PR SAMPLES, ETC.). IN A BROADER SENSE, GREY MARKET PRODUCT CAN BE ANYTHING SOLD THROUGH A BODY THAT IS NOT AN AUTHORISED STOCKIST.

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The grey market gives you no protection on this front – therefore it becomes a gamble when you apply one of these products to your skin.

Secondly skincare usually has a handful of active ingredients, notably Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHAs) and retinol (a strain of vitamin A). These compounds are mostly found in corrective skincare, and especially in things like acne treatments and dark spot correctors. Whilst chemically proven to perform on human skin, these chemicals are also unstable – both types increase photosensitivity to light, most notably, which is an important factor in our climate. Retinol almost never occurs outside night creams for this very reason – by the time the skin meets the sun again, the retinol would have settled and ceased being a hazard.

Not all compounds become less powerful as they age. A product with a substantial dose of AHA is a potential irritation even when it’s brand new, and a product with AHA or Retinol that has been kicking around too long is a time bomb. Likewise, sunscreen – the most vital of vital skin products, and the most often thrown in gloveboxes or boots of cars, kept around for multiple years – is composed of a relatively basic combination of zinc oxide and liquid agents, and if it separates through age or overheating, it isn’t going to work. Full stop. And a sunscreen that can’t be relied on is a disaster waiting to happen.

On a less dire front, mascara as a blanket rule should always be bought instore. They last between three to six months – yes, that is true, it’s not just marketing – before they dry out, and even the best of well-intentioned mistakes by reputable sellers can land you with a useless mascara. And when two weeks of that three month lifespan are spent cooling your heels by the letterbox, the low price is going to taste sour. The good news on a mascara front is that drugstore-

grade mascaras (Maybellines, Revlons) are more than adequate, and often better than their expensive counterparts. The success of a mascara is more often graded by how old it is, and not how it performs. New mascaras do well, regardless of brand. If it doesn’t behave like it should, you’ve got an old beast on your hands and should ditch it. With this in mind, mascara is pretty much a lose-lose situation through a reseller – no one knows how old it is, and you’ll have no legal rights when it inevitably turns up old and useless.

Diversions aside, liquids have the most visible deterioration when they age. Things separate, and morph, and often oxidize into a totally different color – it’s a big gamble. The only thing that is a relatively safe grey market purchase (though could be real or fake) are powders. Eyeshadows, face powders, powder blushes. Because the product has no liquid in it, it’s static. It will remain sanitised until it is touched or used, in which case the natural human oil on the skin contaminates the powder and creates the necessary breeding ground for bacteria. Sealed powder products can live almost indefi nitely – and if they’re applied with hygienic brushes, once open can also live as long as it takes to use up the product.

One of the most common of grey market sources is StrawberryNet, a Hong Kong based online retailer whose success and phenomenal popularity is a clear image of how accepted the grey market currently is. They are not an authorised retailer of any brand, and yet boast a range of more than 200 cosmetic and perfume lines. The offi cial statement is that product is purchased duty free and shipped internationally, but even this open statement of grey-marketing seems fi nancially unsound considering the drastically lower prices and free international shipping. As happens with any huge international retailer (I challenge you to fi nd someone who hasn’t heard an ASOS horror

story), there are accounts of products of varying quality. But StrawberryNet is also a very well-oiled machine with a generous returns system, and the overall level of customer satisfaction is high. So much so that it often isn’t even recognised that StrawberryNet is a grey-market retailer, especially among those with only a middling familiarity with the term or even internet shopping as a whole. While the importance of where the product comes from depends on the person, some knowledge of how the grey market works is critical for anyone dipping their toe into internet shopping, or wondering how an unlikely brand has cropped up in an unexpected place.

by Suzanne Rofe

Urban Decay Naked Palette

Invisible Zinc face & body sunscreen


SHOP FRONT

CUTIE ’S CUPCAKES

Cutie’s Cupcakes is a niche, Perth based business which has fast become one of the

best recognised brands on the scene. Owner Amanda started out simply baking for

friends and family, and through some clever positioning on Facebook and a dogged

commitment to branding and presentation, has fast become one of Perth’s leading

home cupcake boutiques. Specialties include decadent vanilla and chocolate cupcakes,

amazing rainbow cakes and new twists on some old favourites. For personalised fl air

and a unique touch, Cutie’s Cupcakes can cater for your special requests, creating a

concept to suit your individual tastes. This lets you decide what you want, giving you

the freedom to choose fl avours, colours, toppings and casings. Delivery, set-up and tier

hire are also available.

C O N TA C T : cutiescupcakes.com.au, facebook.com/cutiescupcakesperth, [email protected] or 0450923251

If you’ve got a case of the late night munchies

and are too tired to get behind the wheel in

search of snacks, fear not, because Sugar Rush

will deliver candy, cake and soda right to your

door. Open from 6pm until very late, seven days a

week, Sugar Rush stocks every American candy

brand you’ve ever daydreamed about, with new

products added all of the time. Deliveries are

available to selected areas within 20km of Perth.

Contact : 1800 155 661, sugar-rush.com.au

Stocking: Raz zles Pringles Pop Tarts Twiz zlers Milk

Duds Hershey’s Reese’s Plus a range of soft drinks,

cakes and other tasty treats.

Launch: 11th of May

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SHOP FRONT

C O N TA C T : lujosofi nefurs.com

SL VIRGIN HAIR AND COSMETICS

SL Virgin Hair And Cosmetics provides clients with 100 per cent, grade AAA Virgin Hair.

This high quality human hair can easily be bleached, coloured, straightened and curled.

The hair does not tangle, it’s reusable and can last from six months to a year. Diff erent

textures are available such as straight, body wave, virgin wavy, deep wave and curly.

C O N TA C T : slvirginhairr.storenvy.com or +61 435 764 559

S T O C K I N G : SL Virgin Hair and cosmetics, wefts, wigs and clip-ins and eyelash extensions.

S T O C K I S T S : Ten @ Times Boutique, Avion Way, Times Square, Claremont Chateau Clothing, 2a/205 Nicholson Rd, Shenton Park

LUJOSO

Lujoso’s latest collection features designs to highlight tailoring details for a totally

fresh and unique textural look. Garments are woven and hand knitted so they are

ultra-light, which is best suited to the Australian climate. Like pearls and diamonds,

quality stands as furs are even more versatile than ever before and can be worn

with almost everything. All vests are of superior quality and are available in a

variety of colours and textures to suit all manner of tastes.

C O N TA C T : [email protected], cherrybombparlour.com, facebook.com/cherrybombparlour, (08) 9277 5803

CHERRYBOMB BEAUTY PARLOUR

Inspired by the glamour of the 1950s, Cherrybomb Beauty Parlour off ers services

fi t for a beauty queen. Specialising in eyelash extension for that glamorous look,

Cherrybomb ensures a relaxing and safe environment for this unique procedure which

won’t damage your natural eyelashes. The extensions come in a variety of length, curls,

colours and thicknesses, and last up to eight weeks.

We are available Monday - Saturday with late night trading Tuesday,

Wednesday & Thursday nights. Check out our facebook page or website for details on

how to obtain your $25 gift voucher for your fi rst visit on any hair or beauty service.


Mane Tamers since 1983

Precision Colouring, Cutting and Styling

with Internationally trained and experienced Stylist’s.

H E A D O F F I C E

H A I R S T Y L I S T S

B E A U T Y T H E R A P Y

9 7 6 H a y S t r e e t , C B D

( O p p Q V 1 P l a z a )

9 3 2 1 9 3 3 0

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