Issue 03 - Dec 2010 - Feb 2011 Distribution - 25 000 Conservation Interview with Kathy Alexander and Mark Vandewalle of CARACAL INSIDE 09 19 12 28 33 Rescue Mission Lioness rescued and given a second chance at life. An inspirational story of rescue mission and teamwork. Zambezi News Regulars Kariba 3, Harare 10, Chobe 12, Okavango 16, Caprivi 18, Victoria Falls 19, Hwange 29, Visa & Park Fees 30, Lusaka 31, Events Calendar 32, Livingstone 33 Festivals The Parlotones will be rocking Victoria falls along with other musicians includoing Evicted, Mann Friday at the Falls fest. WIN! A free Book! Submit your article and photograph and stand a chance to win a copy of the Magnificent Victoria Falls. Plant Encounters Source to Sea In August 2009, Zimbabwean-born Warren Willis and his South African friend, Francois Kruger, set out to kayak the Zambezi River from its source near Mwini Lunga in Northern Zambia to its delta at the Indian Ocean. e two men completed their epic 3186-km-long journey in May 2010, having split it into two parts, breaking just short of Lake Kariba for Warren to return to the UK in time for the birth of his first child - a son, Benjamin, in October 2009. e pair plan to use their experience to help generate funds for conserving the Zambezi River’s wild areas. e expedition had the support of conservation organization e Zambezi Society: “Tourism on the Zambezi River has the potential to generate revenue which can contribute to sustainable development by conserving the very wilderness values upon which it depends. “We believe that journeys such as the one undertaken by Warren Willis and Francois Kruger will help to bring greater awareness of the importance of the Zambezi River as a global tourism destination, with wildlife and wilderness values which deserve to be conserved for the benefit of future generations in Africa and worldwide.We support their efforts and salute their courage and stamina.” Sally Wynn, Wild Zambezi The Source to Lake Kariba The first half of Warren and Francois’ journey was undertaken in August and September 2009. Warren describes their progress: “We started at the first accessible point approximately 40km downstream from the source of the Zambezi River at Mwini Lunga, paddling a 40km section through Zambia first and then entering Eastern Angola, an area avoided by previous expeditions for security reasons. Angola It took us 11 days to cover the 480km though Angola, where we encountered some of the most remote and beautiful parts of the river’s length. We had to clear away vegetation blocking our path and swim or portage our kayaks round innumerable small rapids too small and rocky to paddle down, including one rocky gorge where Mike Boon nearly lost his life in 2002. We were harassed by police and army officials, had our passports confiscated for 3 days and our boats completely stripped at Cazombo bridge, accused of possessing a grenade (a water filter) and having an illegal radio aerial (a telescopic fishing rod)! We learned to keep a low profile, crossing ferry / pontoon points (all blown up and replaced by dugouts) early morning to avoid bumping into officials. There was a great deal of fishing / netting going on, with lots of huge fish traps built right across the river, even across some of the wider sections. The birdlife was good in most of the section through Angola, but the sum total of mammals we saw was one bushbuck and one hippo. Continued on page 10 Two mens’ incredible journey of courage and determination from the source of the Zambezi to the Indian Ocean Provided by Warren Willis and Wildzambezi.com
Transcript
Issue 03 - Dec 2010 - Feb 2011Distribution - 25 000
ConservationInterview with Kathy Alexander and Mark Vandewalle of CARACAL
INSIDE
09 1912 28 33
Rescue MissionLioness rescued and given a second chance at life. An inspirational story of rescue mission and teamwork.
Zambezi News RegularsKariba 3, Harare 10, Chobe 12, Okavango 16, Caprivi 18, Victoria Falls 19, Hwange 29, Visa & Park Fees 30, Lusaka 31, Events Calendar 32, Livingstone 33
FestivalsThe Parlotones will be rocking Victoria falls along with other musicians includoing Evicted, Mann Friday at the Falls fest.
WIN! A free Book!Submit your article and photograph and stand a chance to win a copy of the Magnificent Victoria Falls.
Plant Encounters
Source to SeaIn August 2009, Zimbabwean-born Warren Willis and his South African friend, Francois Kruger, set out to kayak the Zambezi River from its source near Mwini Lunga in Northern Zambia to its delta at the Indian Ocean. The two men completed their epic 3186-km-long journey in May 2010, having split it into two parts, breaking just short of Lake Kariba for Warren to return to the UK in time for the birth of his first child - a son, Benjamin, in October 2009.The pair plan to use their experience to help generate funds for conserving the Zambezi River’s wild areas. The expedition had the support of conservation organization The Zambezi Society: “Tourism on the Zambezi River has the potential to generate revenue which can contribute to sustainable development by conserving the very wilderness values upon which it depends.
“We believe that journeys such as the one undertaken by Warren Willis and Francois Kruger will help to bring greater awareness of the importance of the Zambezi River as a global tourism destination, with wildlife and wilderness values which deserve to be conserved for the benefit of future generations in Africa and worldwide.We support their efforts and salute their courage and stamina.” Sally Wynn, Wild Zambezi
The Source to Lake KaribaThe first half of Warren and Francois’ journey was undertaken in August and September 2009. Warren describes their progress: “We started at the first
accessible point approximately 40km downstream from the source of the Zambezi River at Mwini Lunga, paddling a 40km section through Zambia first and then entering Eastern Angola, an area avoided by previous expeditions for security reasons.
AngolaIt took us 11 days to cover the 480km though Angola, where we encountered some of the most remote and beautiful parts of the river’s length. We had to clear away vegetation blocking our path and swim or portage our kayaks round innumerable small rapids too small and rocky to paddle down, including one rocky gorge where Mike Boon nearly lost his life in 2002. We were harassed by police and army officials, had our passports confiscated for 3 days and our boats completely stripped at Cazombo bridge, accused of possessing a grenade (a water filter) and having an illegal radio aerial (a telescopic fishing rod)! We learned to keep a low profile, crossing ferry / pontoon points (all blown up and replaced by dugouts) early morning to avoid bumping into officials. There was a great deal of fishing / netting going on, with lots of huge fish traps built right across the river, even across some of the wider sections. The birdlife was good in most of the section through Angola, but the sum total of mammals we saw was one bushbuck and one hippo.
Continued on page 10
Two mens’ incredible journey of courage and determination from the source of the Zambezi to the Indian Ocean
Provided by Warren Willis and Wildzambezi.com
2 Travellers Friend
Specialising in: Hunting Trophy Export Personal Effects Curioes and Arts General Import and Export
Zambezi Traveller has already briefed readers about the work of Elephants without Borders within the Kavango
Zambezi Trans-Frontier Conservation Area (Kaza TFCA). The TFCA is an initiative by the governments of the five countries of Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe to link their adjoining protected areas into one seamless conservation area and tourism destination.
The lead agencies in each of the five countries are the respective ministries of environment and tourism, through their park management services. Each country is actively developing an Integrated Development Plan and has sought the assistance of the Peace Parks Foundation.
Zambia and Zimbabwe have identified pilot projects where traditional leaders (chiefs) have played a key role. Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta is a traditional leader within the Barotse Royal Establishment of the Western Province in Zambia. Across the Kasaya and Machile Rivers in Southern Province, Chief Sekute leads the communities that live on the edges of the Simalaha Floodplain.
Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta and Chief Sekute have enthusiastically agreed to establish the Simalaha Community Conservancy to create a new community-driven conservation area that will link the Zambezi River to the Kafue National Park through the Simalaha Floodplains.
Across the Zambezi River in Zimbabwe, Chief Mvutu is the traditional leader of the community areas closest to the Victoria Falls. Part of the Victoria Falls World Heritage site falls within Chief Mvutu’s chiefdom. His people are neighbours to the Zambezi National Park and Fuller Forest. Chief Mvutu has formally approached the Director General of the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority for assistance with a plan to reduce human/wildlife conflict. Every year crop-raiding elephant destroy crops in the community farming areas close to the Victoria Falls.
In November 2010 Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta and Chief Mvutu visited Victoria Falls to plan for future collaboration across borders as the Kaza TFCA grows. A further meeting is planned for December 2010 when both Chiefs Inyambo Yeta and Chief Sekute will meet their Kaza TFCA counterparts on the Zimbabwe side of the Zambezi River.
Traditional leaders play a key role in the development of the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area. Future issues of Zambezi Traveller will profile individual chiefs and describe their contributions to the overall goal of establishing the Kaza TFCA as a premier destination for tourism in southern Africa.
The chiefs enjoyed an aerial view of the falls compliments of the Zambezi Helcopter Company
Hands Reach Across BordersAs the Kaza TFCA becomes real
Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta and Chief Mvutu in discussion
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Editorial SubmissionsZambezi Traveller welcomes editorial submissions but reserves the right to publish. Email in Word format [email protected]
disclaimer All information and points of view are of those of the people who submitted them, and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Editors. Whilst every effort has been made to ascertain the validity of the information submitted Zambezi Traveller cannot be held responsible for any inaccuracies. Zambezi Traveller does not accept any liability for any advertising copy/content not received correctly. Zambezi Traveller reserves the right to refuse advertising material that does not meet its specifications or advertising standards.
PublisherThe Zambezi TravellerP O Box 183, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe,
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Nissan Zimbabwe congratulates all the anglers who participated in KITFT 2010. Although none of you managed to bag a car-winning fish this year, don’t worry, we’ll be giving you the same chance in 2011!
CC
218
Lost in the Beauty and Sport of the Lake
By Kevin Fry
Abundant birds, open water, stunning
sunrises, rush of racing boats, tiger fish fighting, cold beers, a bunch of good mates; this is the story of Team Charter WHY at this year’s Kariba Invitational Tiger Fishing Tournament.
Team Charter WHY, sponsored by Kangamani
Tours and Zambezi Beer, consisted of Jason Veldsman, John Lucas, Kevin Fry, and Ben and Francois Benade. François had fished here every year for the last 39 years and had a lot to show the rest of us.
We arrived in Kariba and started getting boats, tackle and cooler boxes ready for what would be a eventful three days on the
lake. The aim was to catch 20 of the biggest tiger fish each day for three days.
It all started at 4:00 a.m. when we were woken by loud music from the DJ box, gathered everything and launched the team’s two boats, heading for the start line. All eyes on the shoreline waiting for the 6:00 a.m. flare. Thousands
John Lucas PHOTO:KEVIN FRY
of horse power provided one big adrenaline rush as 250 throttles opened to race across the lake.
A majestic glassy water waited out there as the sun rose in time to catch the first spinners searching for that first tiger fish. Fish eagles watched overhead, buffalo and waterbuck grazed on the
islands, all so peaceful. But suddenly interrupted by the screaming of a fishing reel; a tiger is hooked; a spectacular jump from the depths and the best fresh water fight known to man begins. The first of many fish is in the boat, weighed, put on ice. Rods back in for the next fish.
Each day was filled with
moments like this; fish in the boat, fish getting away that you wanted in the boat, and fish too small for the boat. Half the team is on a trawl searching for ‘the monster’ that could win a car, while we spun our way to reaching the quota for the team.
The end of each day was a race back to Charara and into the weigh bay before the gates closed; here all the fishermen compared stories of how, when and where the day’s adventures happened. There we were met by the sponsor with ice cold Zambezi beers while we watched our fish add up. Nothing more we could do but wait for that wake-up music and do it all again tomorrow.
We finished 39th out of 143 teams we were proud of our effort. Team Charter WHY had done it; we had fished in the famous Tiger Tournament thanks to Zambezi Beer and Kangamani Tours. Above all of this was to enjoy one of the most beautiful places on the earth. We will all be back again next year to the 50th tournament, where you should all be!
4 Kariba & Lower Zambezi News
ALCOHOL MAY BE HAZARDOUS TO HEALTH IF CONSUMED TO EXCESS, THE OPERATION OF MACHINERY OF DRIVING AFTER THE CONSUMPTION OF ALCOHOL IS NOT ADVISABLE.
NOT FOR SALE TO PERSONS UNDER THE AGE OF 18.
5Kariba & Lower Zambezi News
Extraordinary AfricaRoyal Zambezi Lodge, an intimate family-owned property, is situated
on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River on the edge of the unique Lower Zambezi National Park in Zambia.
The lodge offers the ultimate in comfort & luxury, with unrivalledgame viewing accompanied by professional guides, a luxury spa and
Royal Zambezi Lodge - the epitome of the luxury safari experience.
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“I was out on a drive with some guests recently when we spotted a male lion wondering the terrain. We trailed the lion until it came across a dead hippo, bloated and floating in the Chongwe River. Needless to say the lion took a lot of interest in this find, and after rolling about and roaring on the bank debating what to do next, he thought swimming into the crocodile infested water would be the best option. So off he went, with some very excited guests watching with baited breath and wondering what would happen next. Amazingly the lion managed to swim over to the hippo and dig its claws in to get balance. He found the softest body part to eat first in order to make a hole in the animal to continue his meal.
Meanwhile a creepy crocodile was getting closer and closer to all the action and took the lion by surprise; the lion swiped the croc with his sharp claws creating a bit of a commotion! The lion, now feeling a bit vulnerable, being in deep water surrounded by hungry crocodiles, decided that it would be a wise idea to get out of the water… by climbing on top of the hippo! After slipping and sliding he managed to successfully surf the hippo for a few seconds before a croc, tugging on the hippo’s tail, created a bouncing castle for the lion, and he fell off with a huge splash! Now completely wet and feeling nervous, the lion carefully swam to the bank, looking like a very unhappy drowned rat. We stayed a while and watched, while the lion lay down and watched the crocodiles play tug of war with his lunch!”
A Lunchtime Tale from a Dubious Restaurant
PHOTOS:COURTESY OF ROYAL ZAMBEZI
The following tale comes from Lackson, safari guide based at Royal Zambezi Lodge in the lower Zambezi, Zambia.
outrage at Protea Hotels seeking to develop a 72-bed conference facility on the banks of the Zambezi River right opposite Mana Pools National Park and World Heritage Site, the cash-strapped Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority has asked stakeholders to ratify 4 new 24-bed lodge developments for Mana Pools - three of these along the eco-sensitive river frontage and one inland. Conservationists and lovers of Mana Pools as a wilderness Park are up in arms at the proposals - for several reasons:
A recently-completed Park Management Plan, carefully negotiated
and agreed between the Zimbabwe Parks Authority and relevant stakeholders, specifically advised AGAINST any new Park developments along the Zambezi river shoreline in Mana Pools because of the small size and very ecologically-sensitive nature of the Zambezi alluvial terraces known as “the Mana floodplain”. It did, however, allow for small developments at selected sites inland.
The Management Plan acknowledges that Mana Pools is important for the unique low-volume, high wilderness tourism experience it offers visitors, and advises that these values should be maintained into the future. Critics of the proposed developments believe that increasing tourism bed-
nights along the Zambezi river frontage by an effective 72 people per night would bring associated impacts which would seriously erode the very values that the
A New Controversy
PHOTO:TOM VARLEY
PHOTO:DICK PITMAN
industry sends its clients to enjoy. New developments in the already impacted “floodplain” area would, they believe, “kill the goose that lays the golden egg”.
The Management Plan remains unsigned by the relevant Government Ministry, despite having been completed 18 months ago: a fact which has called into question Zimbabwe’s true commitment to proper and accountable planning
procedures for National Parks and globally significant areas like UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
It is well known that the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Authority is short of money to manage its Estate. The recent proposals have drawn criticism that the Authority is seeking short-term quick-fix solutions to its financial crisis at the expense of the long-term future and sustainability of the country’s magnificent wild areas.
Zimbabweans are being made to look foolish in objecting to Zambian developments opposite Mana Pools on the grounds of unacceptable tourism impacts while effectively increasing tourism impacts
on their own side of the Zambezi River.
Readers of this newsletter who would like more information or who would like to contribute to the debate on this new controversy are invited to e-mail the Director, Commercial Services at the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority: Ms T Musonza, E-mail: [email protected] You can also make informed comments through the Face book Groups: Save Mana Pools Or The Zambezi Society
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7Kariba & Lower Zambezi News
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the blistering October heat ready to slaughter the fish! I might add here that for the previous three year most of the actual competitors did not catch a single fish. It is, after all, a fun competition. Needless to say, a huge amount of beer was
consumed and the mainly masculine crowd got up to a lot of hilarious nonsense. One person thought he was
a slot machine and actually swallowed a R5 coin. Have you ever seen a bunch of men dancing and singing wildly without any inhibitions? They do when whipped up by Gary Stanley’s vibes.
Some are very serious
fishermen and others don¹t get round to putting a rod in the water but provide the entertainment for all to enjoy. It seemed to be the right conditions for catching fish as all but four teams were on the board this year.
Saturday afternoon¹s fishing session finished earlier than normal so we
could watch the Curry Cup final. The “Keep net” filled with avid Sharks and Western Province supporters. You could hear the roars from cheering on the teams all over the island, and I think the favourite side won!
The competition started
with a Tiger Shootout that was won by Kevin Barron.
“The Grand” (Wayne,
Mike & Billy Querl and Grant Brebner) won the overall competition this year with a total score of 504.38. In second place
Annual Msuna Fishing CompetitionTraditionally held during the last weekend of October.
Relaxing after the competition
were “Fibrecraft” (Ivor & Craig Keeson, Bob Beaver and Bruce Philp) with 335.58 points. Leopard Ridge (Greg Mitchelson, Gerald Oosthuizen, Gordon MacLean and Steve Lea) came third with 313.39 points.
Mike Howard won the
largest vundu (25kg) and largest bream (2.16kg). Mike Querl caught the largest barbel (8.48kg) and largest tiger (6.5kg). Brian MacGregor landed the largest chessa (1.1kg).
9Kariba & Lower Zambezi News
A game-viewing canoe trip for six guests of Musango Safari Camp, Kariba, took an unusual turn in October when Professional Guide Steve Edwards and Learner
Guide Maxwell Siadembe spotted a pride of lions on the lake shore.The six lions, two adults and four youngsters, all females, were resting in the heat
of the day under some bushes. One lioness was having difficulty in moving and kept stretching and scratching around her chest area with her back leg. When she turned around Edwards noticed a wire snare around her chest. The snare had been snapped off, leaving about six inches of cable dangling from her chest, where a large gash was seen.
The wound looked fairly fresh and appeared not to be infected. This would need quick attention if the lioness was to be saved from a certain agonising death. Edwards immediately radioed Bumi Hills Safari Lodge, who together with Musango patrol a large area rich in wildlife, to ascertain if there were any aircraft coming from Victoria Falls to bring in a wildlife veterinarian to dart the lioness.
Bumi Hills quickly managed to obtain a free seat from Solenta Air, while Edwards contacted Roger Parry from the Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust. Parry has darted many animals and has years of experience in the recovery of wounded animals, including elephant, lion, buffalo, waterbuck, kudu and warthog.
With the assistance of Solenta Air, Parry arrived the next day. Nick Milne, acting General Manager of Bumi Hills and Ian Smith of Z.L.T. deployed their Anti Poaching Team and together with Musango staff the pride was soon located. Unfortunately the snared lioness was not with the rest of the pride. It was to be a long 48 hour search involving tracking, calling, baiting and waiting until the lioness was finally located.
Although very weak and in a lot of pain, the lioness and her pride had fed on an impala which they had just killed. This was a saving grace as she was looking very weak and thin. With Edwards driving, Parry fired the tranquilizing dart that was to put the lioness to sleep, but the dart deflected off some grass and missed the target. This was the start of another agonising day tracking, calling, baiting and waiting for the follow-up team.
After many more hours, kilometres and litres of water, the lionesses were located once more, sleeping under some bushes – trying to keep cool. It was decided to leave the lions until it cooled down. Late in the afternoon Parry once again fired and this time managed to dart the lioness.
The lioness went down in about 15 minutes and the team from Musango and Bumi moved in. The gash was about two inches deep in her brisket and about one inch deep on the top of her shoulders. There was a shallow gash all the way around her chest where the snare had been tightening.
After midnight a very happy team returned home, only to be off again early next morning. The patient was located and seen walking with a more relaxed motion and gait.
Acknowledgements are due to Roger Parry and the Wild Horizons Wild Life Trust, Steve Edwards and Max Siadembe of Musango Safari Camp, Nick Milne and the Anti-Poaching Unit of Bumi Hills Safari Lodge, Ian Smith of Z.L.T., Rob Killick of Solenta Air and Ron Goatley of Wilderness Safaris and Sefofane who both assisted in getting Roger Parry to and from Bumi Hills.
Wildlife Rescue in ActionOperators Team Up to Save Lioness
Lioness being treated by her rescuers
A second chance at life
By Sonya McMaster
During the last few years a group volunteers have
been working with National Parks to rescue poached, snared or injured animals in the Kariba area.
Initially the work was funded by urgent emails and sms’s to local residents, but as the incidents increased there was an obvious need for a more sustainable arrangement, and the Kariba Animal Welfare Fund was formed with its own bank account.
Today, volunteers still regularly patrol the Kariba town and Charara areas, returning every time with new incidents to report. Whenever an injured animal is spotted, a veterinary surgeon who is willing to come to Kariba has to be found - sometimes taking three or four days – and travel and treatment costs have to be covered.
To avoid the cost and delay of trying to find a vet who can travel to Kariba, the next project is to train a local resident in the use of a dart gun, and to purchase a dart gun at some stage, requiring major capital.
Two large donations recently purchased a state of the art portable X ray machine which AWARE Trust will keep in Harare for use throughout Zimbabwe.
A zebra found with a vehicle coil spring stuck over its hoof in 2009. The animal was darted and a team of local residents used a cutting grinder powered by a portable generator to cut the spring coil off. The zebra was released and recovered – albeit with less spring in its step! [See Photograph P1]
An elephant bull with a badly swollen front leg was treated during a lengthy period, darted twice to administer antibiotics and bribed with foodstuffs to get pills swallowed. [See Photograph P2]
A young elephant was attached to a tree by a thick cable snare for three days in the Mucharara Valley this year before some local residents raised the alert. She was successfully released from the snare. [See Photograph P3]
Kariba Animal Welfare Fund
P1
P2
P3
HarareHarareon your way to the Zambezi
Source to SeaContinued from Page 1
ZambiaWe crossed into Zambia and portaged the not-very-impressive Chavuma falls with the help of Bob Young, an American missionary of 57 years who speaks the local Luvali language. Birdlife, fish and wildlife was virtually
non-existent from Chavuma to Lukulu, at the top of the Barotse Floodplains. At Chinyingi, we passed under a very interesting pedestrian swing bridge built by a Capuchin missionary in the 70s after he witnessed the drowning of four local people who were trying to cross the river with a sick
The two canoists getting ready to continue
Stop over at the tranquil and comfortable Chengeta and Pamuzinda Safari lodges en route to explore, experience and enjoy a great adventure on the most luxurious houseboat on the lake. Whether you are looking for a good old fashioned safari holiday, a rejuvanating getaway weekend or the perfect unique venue for your special event, we look forward to taking care of everything for you.
person. The bridge is 900metres long!Recent mining operations up the Kapombo River have polluted the Zambezi with a green slime algae which coated everything downstream for approx 50km (well into the Barotse Floodplains). It took us eight days to get through the Barotse. Bird and fish life were good, but under enormous pressure, I suspect, as the area is heavily populated and is constantly burning. We portaged the kayaks round the Sioma / Ngonye Falls and then came short in some big rapids in Sioma Gorge. There were intermediate rapids all the way from here to the Victoria Falls, ranging from scary Class III’s to smaller flows. In this area, we counted about six deserted tourism lodges. We met a South African and a Dane who are trying to develop the area for tourism based at Sioma Camp, including the nearby Sioma Ngwezi National Park, as well as for agriculture by growing jatropha.
Caprivi and Victoria Falls We resupplied in Katimo Mulilo, Namibia. We had seen zero mammal life until reaching Kazangula, with the exception of otters. We crossed the Katambora Rapids and within a few kilometers of the Victoria Falls, and had two encounters with hippo, one very, very close. We reached the lip of the Victoria Falls and then used Shearwater’s rafts and guides to get through the Batoka and other gorges, including the Upper and Lower Moemba Falls, as it was impossible to paddle down in our kayaks.
An interesting factillustrating the fascinating geology of this area is that over the approx 1000km from Chavuma to the Victoria Falls, the Zambezi River only drops 180m in altitude, most of it in the last few hundred kms. In the 130km stretch between Victoria Falls and Deka, the river drops 400m!
The first part of our journey had covered almost exactly 1600km and ended at Deka where the Matetsi and Zambezi Rivers meet, at the top end of Lake Kariba. Here we stopped, at the end of September 2009, planning to return after the rains and continue the second half of our journey.
Continued on page 11
900m long pedestrian swing bridge built by a Capuchin missionary
11Harare News
Source to SeaContinued from Page 10
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Warren continues: “The river was up by an estimated 4-5 meters, which meant that we had to launch up
the Matetsi River and paddle down onto the Zambezi, encountering very dangerous paddling conditions until Msuna. Lake KaribaWe planned to go straight down the lake to Kariba town, and so this meant a very fast crossing, which took seven days, battling strong winds and freak squalls. A full moon allowed us to paddle some of the bigger crossings, such
In the intervening months, the region experienced exceptionally heavy rains. The Zambezi River rose by metres and was in full flood by the time Warren Willis and Francois Kruger returned in March 2010 to finish their journey, with the highest water levels recorded for many years.
Lake Kariba to the Indian Oceanas across the Sengwa Basin, early in the morning, thereby avoiding the wind. We did not see much wildlife until we reached the shoreline of the Matusadona National Park. Here we took some time out to walk in the National Park. We noticed a lot of rubbish along the shoreline - by the looks of it coming from houseboats and kapenta rigs. The wind dropped completely, allowing us to paddle from Rhino Island to Kariba town via Long Island in one 56km stretch. We took two days off in Kariba before portaging the wall. With three floodgates open, we had some concern about the water conditions in Kariba Gorge, but there was no problem - only a very fast passage! Chirundu – Mana PoolsAfter a final resupply in Chirundu, we pushed to Mana Pools National Park and spent some very hairy hours negotiating the various channels that the hippos had been pushed into by the high river level. Then we spent two wonderful days in Mana Pools walking. Chewore - KanyembaThe fast river carried us all the way to the Chewore River mouth for our next night stop, where we were chased almost right across the river by three large crocodiles. Then through the Mupata Gorge to Kanyemba, where we were looked after by some Zimbabwean farmers. We watched a 30 ton rig full of beer and wine being offloaded in the Kanyemba Police Camp and paddled by dugouts across to Zambia - therefore avoiding expensive
customs charges at Chirundu. We stocked up with them!
Continued on page 30
Chobe NewsChobe News
influence positive change in Africa and the world, even if it is not in my lifetime.
Kathy: I want to know that when I leave this world, I made difference.
How and why did you end up in Kasane? Mark: By accident really – as a student at Wits University I heard about this amazing wilderness area, Botswana, where one could travel on a real adventure holiday, but I never had the opportunity (or money) to go there. I had joined the Biological Society and became an active committee member and, although the Society had previously been there, this never happened during my term as an undergraduate student. I registered for a BSc Honours and had a project on roan antelope set up at Lapalala Wilderness, SA. Three weeks prior to starting my fieldwork I was offered the opportunity by my major professor to do a project at the then Lion Research Camp at Savuti. The condition was that I committed to continue the work on to an MSc and PhD. Not a difficult decision. So I ended up completing my Honours, MSc and PhD in Savuti. Whilst writing up the last at Wits, I was offered a position in the Research Division of DWNP and I accepted. I have majors in Zoology and Botany with a PhD in Ecology – plant-animal interactions focused on African herbivore migrations.Kathy: I had been conducting research in this country since 1989. I was asked to apply for the wildlife veterinary position in DWNP. I jumped at it! Botswana is just such an amazing place. One can truly make a difference in this country. The government is receptive and supportive. There is simply so much possibility.
Where did you grow up? Mark: Born in Luanshya, Zambia. Lived in the Bengweulu Swamps from three until 11, where Dad was a mission doctor. I went to boarding school from the start at Broken Hill (Kabwe) Convent. I grew up in the bush and enjoyed it. They say one is a product of one’s environment but my brother and other siblings were exposed to much the same lifestyle and upbringing. I am the only one that ended up this way! I always wanted to be the proverbial ‘game ranger’ and then as I grew older became more realistic. I followed the academic path largely because that is what the Vandewalle’s did, even if they didn’t all practice their qualifications, chose biology. I suppose I was good at it and enjoyed it. I evolved from a pure ‘animal lover’ to realising the sadness and suffering of people throughout the world because of the greed, selfishness, megalomania and power struggles of some of mankind, and also usually at the expense of the environment. It led me to where I am today as an ecologist – to try and use my knowledge and qualifications to make the world a better place, even if it is only in Botswana and the people and environment here. By influencing others and making small changes, the combined efforts of many can change the situation and the world. Keeps me going.
Kathy: Little farm in Belen, New Mexico. My decision to become a veterinarian occurred when I was a child. My mother became very sick, as did my dad.
I was left alone to look after my father (my father went to bed, mom in hospital), brother and a small group of young calves, among other animals. I was eight. The calves started dying- one after the other. I managed to save some but I had no idea why they were dying and what to do to save them.
Continued on Page 13
Vandewalle has been in Botswana for some 27
years, having first arrived in 1984 to start fieldwork for an MSc, returning in1988 to work on his PhD. He joined the Department of Wildlife and National Parks in 1995 and left the department in 2003 to head CARACAL, which Kathy Alexander had started two years before. He is now a Botswana citizen.
Dr Kathy Alexander is Associate Professor of Zoology at Virgina Tech. and partners Mark in the management of CARACAL. She first came to Botswana in 1989 to undertake field research in predator disease ecology. She attained a BSc Zoology in 1988, Doctor of Veterinary Medicine (DVM) in 1992 and PhD. in 1995 from the University of California.
Can you give ZT a brief overview of what it is you do in your work? Mark: As CEO I oversee all of CARACAL’s projects and programmes. I also initiate these by posing possible solutions to obvious environmental, conservation and human concerns and then, through proposal writing, grant seeking and implementation, get the schemes going. I also oversee the development component of CARACAL’s Biodiversity Centre as a tool to meet education goals and community projects to help alleviate poverty and improve livelihoods. As secretary I cover the administrative responsibilities for the organisation.
Kathy: My professional program is focused towards understanding and managing the health of ecosystems, human, animal and wildlife populations, engaging local communities in order to improve and strengthen rural
livelihoods, and developing the capacity of young scientists to contribute to discovery in this field.
What would you say most motivates you to do what you do? Mark: To make a difference to people’s lives, the environment and animals and plants, no matter how small this contribution might be, and hopefully in the long-term have a positive impact on the future of the planet.
Kathy: When I am in the community areas and talk with community members, [I realize] there is so much one can do to make the world a better place.
What are you most excited or passionate about? Mark: The environment, conservation and securing a future for my and other children growing up now. Oh, and whiskey!
Kathy: I am fortunate that I am working at so many different scales and in so many different disciplines. I am excited about it all! However, I am particularly excited about the new and different approaches we are taking to improving the lives of local community members – in health,
access to natural resources and capacity development. I am also excited about the disease ecology work I am doing and the discovery of a new pathogen… a once in a lifetime event!
What are the goals you most want to accomplish in your work? Not so much the goals that are in your job description, but the goals you hold personally. Mark: As a founder member of CARACAL, the concept and ideas developed by Kathy and myself, the goals of both the organisation and my own are probably much the same. So what I achieve through the NGO would be my personal goals – i.e. make a difference, do good, and hopefully
A Dream to Make a DifferenceDr Mark Vandewalle is CEO and Secretary of CARACAL (Centre for Conservation of African Resources: Animals, Communities and Landuse), a not-for-profit organization dedicated to environmental conservation. CARACAL opened its Biodiversity Centre in Kasane earlier this year as a base to involve Kasane residents and visitors in research, education and training.
Accommodation: A variety of options from family and twin rooms with ensuites in our lodges and camping. All amenities including a bar, restaurant and swimming pool.Activities: Chobe National Park game drives and boat cruises are available daily. Chobe Day trips from Victoria Falls or Livingstone include breakfast and a lunch cruise – an all day activity.Mobile safaris: Explore Chobe, Savuti, Moremi, Okavango, Nxai Pan, Makgadikgadi and Deception Valley. Choose from budget, semi participation, semi-luxury or tailor made safaris.
A big five safari destination!Kasane – Chobe – Botswana
Zambezi Traveller interviews Kathy Alexander and Mark Vandewalle
13Chobe News
By Judy Hepburn
In our last edition we unearthed some of the facts surrounding the early settlement at Serondella which
had resulted from the existence of the Chobe Timber Concessions in that area. The company had been active for over a decade from 1945 to 1955 /56 when the decision to close the mill was taken.
The use of the Chobe River as a means of commercial transport was first considered by Non other than the dauntless explorer David Livingstone. During the course of his travels in this area, circa 1853, he described the Chobe:
“Though the river is from thirteen to fifteen feet in depth at its lowest ebb, and broad enough to allow a steamer to ply upon it, the suddenness of the bending would prevent navigation; but should the country ever become civilized, the Chobe would be a convenient natural canal.”
Livingstone would have been satisfied to know that the river was eventually navigated by more than just mokoros (the wooden dugout canoes used by our local fisherman), apart from the barges used to transport timber from the mill to the Mabova Rapids, and the Wenela barge which travelled via the Kasai Channel to Katima Mulilo.
Charles and Ethnee Trevor who had been responsible for building the well positioned and historic original Chobe Safari Lodge in 1960, had also constructed a beautiful 10 meter paddle steamer aptly named the Chobe Belle. The
Continued from Page 11
I vowed then that I would become a veterinarian and I would always have some idea how to deal with animal suffering and pain. My vision to become a vet never changed! However, as I grew older, I realized that people really are the most important. My heart has been touched by the need to improve human life. Everything is influenced by the local human condition.
How did CARACAL come about and why? Mark: Working for government, Kathy and I thought we could make a difference (from within, so to speak). However, we realised after a while that as a cog in part of a big machine with set ways, hierarchies and procedures, this was too difficult and restricting. Nonetheless, having learnt the functionings of government and government procedures, as well as having made good friends and acquaintances, we felt that operating in the private sector, with a strong relationship with government and communities, that we could achieve a lot more. Also, our positions in DWNP were becoming more administrative and less field orientated. So we completed our contracts and started the NGO with these goals in mind. The organisation has evolved and grown and, although still young, is meeting these goals.Also, whilst with DWNP and living in Chobe National Park, and Kathy being a vet, we started taking on orphaned, injured and, in some way stricken animals and birds. Word got out and more kept arriving, so we started an informal, small and modest wildlife orphanage at the house. In the three or four years that this operated, we rehabilitated, traded with other governments, rescued and placed in official orphanages a number of animals and birds including wild
dog, cheetah, lion, hyaena, buffalo, waterbuck, bushbuck, warthog, marabou storks, bataleur eagles, tawny eagles, black-shouldered and yellow-billed kites, ground hornbills, several species of owls and others I have probably forgotten about. We even had a black rhino and an elephant for short periods. But despite the successes we experienced with the animals, we were struck by the incredible educational value of having these animals for school children, the public in general and even political figures and decision makers. These visitors to the facility, although probably initiated by curiosity and interest, were noticeably transformed in their thinking and it was easy to create incredible awareness through these animals. This was the seed for the Biodiversity Centre concept we then developed through the NGO.
Kathy: There is so much to do and so many crises that it is often difficult to be as effective as you would like within government. Mark and I decided we could do more for Botswana through a non-governmental organization that focused on problem identification and resolution and which worked with the government to improve the livelihoods of the people of Botswana and the management of natural resources. I believe this is our short and long-term goal - CARACAL should be a true advocate for local communities and the natural resources on which communities depend.
What would you like to do more of? Mark: Just do more of what we already are doing but scale things up with improved budgets. Finances and employing a good team to do the work is the most restricting factor at the moment. One of our main concerns that we are doing too little about is the onslaught from so many different angles on the Chobe-Zambezi wetlands. Despite KAZA, there are at least four nations that are slowly killing these river systems and I know there is a lot we can do but seem so powerless to do anything. We would like to develop an integrated programme to change the current situation – we are working on it but it is huge task and will require a big budget. This certainly is one of our main goals in the shorter term.Kathy: I think I am content in what I am doing… just wish there were more hours in the day! Last words?Mark: We all need to remember – we are all part of the ecosystem and can have an effect – we need to decide whether this will be positive or negative and get involved. Being passive and cocooning oneself is negative in the long-term. Get involved, no matter how small a contribution.
History of Chobe National Park – Part 3
A Dream to Make a Difference
respond and poor ‘Dup’ ended up right in the middle of a trumpeting herd of stressed elephant.
Sue recalls the passengers on the back of the truck diving flat onto bags of mealie meal as the truck impacted the rear end of a cow elephant. This dive was with the exception of one poor fellow, Matakalisa, who, being the only remaining upright passenger, was swept off the back of the truck by another distraught cow.
Only on arrival home did ‘Dup’ discover they were one passenger short. The other staff and children had all been too traumatized to say anything! They rushed back to Kalwisi but Matakalisa was nowhere to be seen.
Finally after much yelling and whistling in the pitch black of night, a faint voice could be heard at the top of a high acacia. How he managed to scale the likes of such a tree, thorns and all, remains a mystery! It took them an age to coax the poor grazed, bruised and severely shocked mana back down. He was given a hefty shot of brandy and his wounds seen to, but three weeks later his hair was snow white!
Sue and Annetjie speak fondly of the many memories they have of life at Serondella and the numerous adventures they took for granted as children growing up in the wilds of northern Botswana.
As typical teenagers of the swinging sixties not even a remote existence such as theirs prevented them from enjoying the dances of the day. Holiday time would see temporary residents arriving for winter game viewing and fishing, or later in the year for the festive season.
Whiskey Street would come alive and the importance of ones ability to twist or do the limbo rock seemed of far greater consequence then than knowledge of the rich flora and fauna of the region.
Today the banks of the Chobe River and the National Park are still very much a part of the girls’ lives and livelihoods. Second and third generation Burnies and Van Wyks abound in the Chobe region. All are still involved in the support and development of the tourism industry which resulted from the foresight, in 1956, of the Bechuanaland Government, Pat Bromfield and the Bechuanaland Game Control Department, in recognizing the wild beauty and potential of the area.
space and comfort afforded by this vessel provided an excellent means of game viewing while sipping the inevitable sundowners on the river.
We cannot move on from the Serondella settlement without mentioning some of the families who made it their permanent home, even if only legally possible before the Park was endorsed.
The DuPlessis family referred to in our first edition was one. They were a family of five; ‘Dup,’ Anna, Sue, Annetjie and Christo. ‘Dup’ and Anna negotiated the rocky road from Serondella to the Chobe Trading Store and Filling Station in Kazungula everyday. Holidays from boarding school in the then Rhodesia meant that the three children went along too.
Sue writes of one of the memorable incidents which occurred one evening on their way home to Serondella. ‘Dup’ was at the wheel with Anna in the truck cab when on approaching the dip at Kalwisi, a herd of elephants started to cross the sandy road.
The bush and trees in the Kalwisi Valley were thick and lush in those days and even a herd of jumbo could appear from nowhere. As luck would have it, the brakes did not
The Duplesis Family
PHOTO:TOM VARLEYLechwe in Chobe National Park
14
CHOBE NEWS
Chobe News
Accommodation
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This is the incredible story of four brave adventurers kayaking from the Okavango Delta through Chobe to
within twenty metres of Victoria Falls. New Zealand-born but long-time resident of Botswana,
Chris MacIntyre, and his New Zealand-based brother, Richmond, with John Sandenbergh from Maun, Botswana, started the epic journey and were later joined by cousin Garth MacIntyre.
Okavango Delta and Makgadikgadi SaltpansThe following excerpts are from the expedition blog by
John Sandenburgh:-“The expedition uses Wilderness Systems Tsunami 125
kayaks. They are very comfortable, durable and have enough watertight space to carry six days of provisions and enough equipment to camp relatively comfortably. Average speeds up to 60 km a day.
“There was a lot of portage and beating our way through sections blocked by vegetation, and two days of messing around in a small area, trying to find a way out.
“The whole trip is a highlight; every day brings new and unexpected sights and pleasures. I think the most memorable highlight was seeing a blackfooted cat near Mapula, the second one I have ever seen. We’ve been through some areas of river where very few people have been, some stunningly beautiful places.
“I do it because I love being in the wilderness and active; I enjoy the frugality and the close interface with nature that one only gets from this type of activity. I love the danger of it and having to use your wits and instincts in crisis situations. Also the sense of having to rely on oneself to get to the other end, in the middle of nowhere; no-one is going to help but ourselves. It also brings a great sense of accomplishment when we get to the end of the journey.
“Lots of close encounters with hippo, some popping up very close. I inadvertently hit one on the head with a paddle close to Kasane. Huge hippo concentrations at Zibilianje and the Linyanti section. Sometimes when in a small channel with reeds and papyrus on both sides, it’s a big adrenaline rush having to navigate past a pod, sometimes within a few meters of them.
“We never experienced any aggression, mainly curiosity. Richmond had a very large croc attack the back of his boat in the Linyanti, I’ve been attacked in the same manner near
Seronga and been bumped and chased by them on several occasions.”
On their arrival at my safari camp, Meno A Kwena (Teeth of the Crocodile) on the banks of the Boteti River, the three collapsed in their tents for several hours, exhausted. Their eleven day trip through the delta to finish the first leg in the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park was especially gruelling towards the end. After a much needed rest, the kayakers regaled us with their stories.
The riverbed is thick in places with acacia trees growing since the river dried up in the early 1990s. The kayaks were pushed by the current into impenetrable tangles of thorns. On one occasion a large grey snake fell onto the front of Chris’s kayak. Richmond was separated from the others for hours in the dark.
Garth MacIntyre joined the expedition at this point for the 600 km leg from the Okavango to Victoria Falls. He was to brave Africa’s rivers once again despite narrowly escaping being murdered by rebels in Uganda while on a 2007 expedition to measure the true length of the River Nile.
Satellite phone report:- “The four set out today in
a kayak each from Seronga, a town on the eastern side of the Okavango panhandle, and will kayak an average of 40 km a day through the Linyanti region towards Kasane and Victoria Falls on the Zambezi.
“They will have to carry all their own supplies but will be able to replenish about every three days when they pass small settlements. They will sleep on “high” ground in tents amid an enormous wildlife population , where elephants, crocodiles and lion abound, but they expect their biggest challenge to be the 40 000 or so hippos that inhabit the area. The landscape they will pass through is extremely remote and isolated and as a result of the floods not even shallow power boats can access most of the route.”
Chobe River and LinyantiThe Chobe River, now famous for the extraordinary
herds of elephants concentrated along the river front, is also home to a large variety of other wildlife species including enormous flocks of birds – geese, ducks, storks and other waterfowl.
Continued on page 16
Four adventurers kayak from the Delta to the FallsWildlife, Wilderness and Water
Wildlife, Wilderness and WaterContinued from page 15
The Linyanti area has unimaginable concentrations of hippo in this wetland area between the Okavango and Chobe River systems.
Satellite phone report:- “All is well, 40 km covered today with many, many hippo challenges. As if that was not enough, Richmond was in a very close encounter with a crocodile that either liked the look of his biceps or did not like the look of his kayak, so took a big bite out of it!
“The croc snapped at the kayak and put a hole in the back of it, so that will have to be repaired before the trip resumes tomorrow. It could have ended much worse than a hole in the kayak.”
Satellite phone report:- “Today was the most grueling day they have had yet, paddling and dragging the kayaks over huge swamplands that normally do not have water and have now transformed into “an elephant sewage farm!”
“Methane gas and gurgling methane mud punctuate their progress and when there is enough water to actually paddle, there are hippos popping up everywhere. The going was extremely slow and hard and the next three days will be the crux to test their endurance for this adventure.
“They now fully understand why nobody has tried to do this before. They are keeping up physically, reach camp by 5 pm daily, make camp, eat and then sleep. It is a very hard physical haul right now.
“Adding to all those miseries of the exhausting muddy passage is the daily 32 degrees C (88 F) temperature and
relentlessly blazing sun. It cools overnight to about 13 C (56 F) in the wee hours, but will be hot by 0800 again.”
Satellite phone report:- “These men are having the most incredible journey over 650 to 700km - something no one has ever done before and they are all quite overwhelmed by this immense privilege. Never before have the floods linked six rivers. In the days of Livingstone, when there might have been similar floods, they didn’t have GPS – and without the technology of today a trip like this wouldn’t be possible – no one could ever find their way through the maze of waterways.
“They are experiencing pristine parts of Africa and even Chris, who has lived in Botswana for most of his life, has never experienced anything like it. For all the difficulties and exhaustion they are thoroughly enjoying themselves. It’s been a major mission fighting their way through the reeds – they find themselves going round in circles; snakes - mambas, pythons - and spiders falling onto the boat as they ram the reeds. They’ve heard dozens of lions roaring and moaning and huffing and puffing as well as the calls and giggles of hyaena.
“Richmond said you cannot believe how difficult it has been dragging the kayaks – their feet are lacerated and they’re all rather worried about contracting bilharzia from the water through the open sores on their feet. They are seeing crocs, hippo, elephant, warthog, buffalo, zebra and a breathtaking amount of water birds.
“Their shoulders are sore from long, long hours of paddling, but it’s like floating through a park – all peace and tranquillity. There are flat alluvial plains on either side of the channel – Botswana on the right and Namibia to the left and the channel is wide with clear water. Clear, but not clean enough to drink because of all the animals.”
Satellite phone report:- “They’ve parked themselves at the Thebe River Safaris Camp halfway between Kasane and Kazungula, about 5 km from the confluence of the Zambezi and Chobe. Once they start heading SE after turning into the Zambezi, the current strong headwind will move to a side wind and I don’t know whether that’s a good thing or a bad thing when going through rapids.”
Zambezi River and Victoria FallsSatellite phone report today was taken by Glynis:- “The
adventurers tackled the first two sets of rapids today but not without getting thrown about and out of their kayaks. However, they made it safely through and powered their way covering nearly 48 km on the Zambezi.
“The final stretch wasn’t without its excitement but it was mostly idyllic — they left camp at 07:15 and to their delight there was no wind. They just cruised down the river with trees on either side, crocs dozing on the banks, hippos wallowing in family groups and everything as peaceful as could be.
“Then they hit the last rapids and everything changed - the main rapid was a Grade 4 with a narrow shoot that had a rock wall on the one side and groups of rocks on the other – Rich went through first and saw a hippo rise up among the rocks – he was doing about 20 knots and they looked at each other in amazement – he could have whacked the hippo on the head with his paddle but shot past instead and made for a sandy beach to empty water out his kayak.
“They could see and got very close to the ‘smoke that thunders’ and when Richmond said they were speeding down the river at 10km/h without paddling, they deemed it wise to pull off just before Devil’s Cataract!”
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Caprivi NewsCaprivi News
Tel +264 66 259093 Cell: +264 813101730Fax +264 66 259094 Fax to email: 088610233
I first flew over Lake Liambezi when it was dry, just a large dust bowl in stark contrast to the nearby Linyanti swamps,
and at the time it captured my heart. There were a few features differentiating it from the surrounding landscape; village huts and rows of ploughed furrows.
I have always felt some sort of romantic attachment to the lake and now that I have seen it filled with water, it has added to my desire to get up close and personal. I have driven past the turn off to the lake many times on the way to and from Katima Mulilo, but to date, I have never been to the lake itself. Viewing such a vast area of water from air becomes quite disconcerting; we are so small in comparison.
Lake Liambezi is located in the Caprivi area of north eastern Namibia. The Caprivi is 450km long and up
to 100km wide, bordering Angola, Botswana, Zambia, touching Zimbabwe. It was once a part of Barotseland ruled over by the Lozi people of Zambia. Four famous rivers that make up this area. The Okavango River flows through the Caprivi and into Botswana to become the Okavango Delta, the largest inland swamp in the world. The Kwando, when in flood flows into the Linyanti and Chobe Rivers. The Zambezi River forms the border with Zambia at Katima Mulilo. This area of Namibia is lush in comparison to the rest of the country and each of these waterways play a vital part in the livelihood of the local communities.
Lake Liambezi was born a little over 50 years ago, just like its well known counterpart, Kariba, but unlike Kariba, it wasn’t created by humans. In 1958 the Zambezi River rose to its highest level ever recorded. Massive rains in Angola near the birthplace of the Zambezi produced far reaching consequences, pouring water into flood plains and further afield, filling a broad, sandy depression located south of Katima Mulilo - and hence Liambezi was created.
When full the lake covers an area of 10,000ha or 100km2. In 1985 it dried up entirely and remained that way for nearly 20 years. Many villages cropped up in the area and
Lake Liambezi A Magical VanishingWaterworld
PHOTO: KELLY LANDEN
they have been using the dry lake bed for cattle grazing and agriculture ever since. The fertile soil provides a good base for growing maize.
One of the theories about why the lake dried up in the first place, is that it was caused by hippo poaching. The hippos kept the channels clean with their constant grazing and movement, allowing the water to come into the lake. When the hippo populations started to decline due to poaching, the channels closed up, causing the lake to dry up. This also affected fishing for the local villages as the fresh water allowed fish into the lake, replenishing stock levels.
The Linyanti River used to be the main source of water for the lake until latterly when the comparative dryness of the swamps has meant there is very little overflow into the lake. In 2002 there was a change in this trend and for the first time in many years the lake had a few inches of water in it. This was attributed to good local rains and the reverse flow of the Chobe River.
By the 2004 season, many of the crops grown in the lake area were covered with water and had to be harvested by boat. Water covered more than 1000ha of cultivated land, which was a big surprise for those living in and around the edges of the lake which had been dry for such a long time. A herd of hippo also made their way to the flooded lake during this time, helping to boost the remaining local population.
In 2007, high Zambezi River floods failed to have much of impact on the Liambezi; as did the 2008 Kwando River flood. However, in 2009 an abnormally high Zambezi flood saw a fully functioning lake emerge once more. Villages were underwater for long periods of time; local wildlife and fish flourished.
In April this year, the Nwanyi Angling Club, based in Katima Mulilo, held an event on the lake in conjunction with the Namibian Nature Foundation. The Foundation’s
research team is interested in the fish life of the lake and the anglers were only too willing to get involved. The event was well attended and as a result a potentially new fish species was discovered.
On 8 May, water flooded directly from the Zambezi River through the Bukalo Channel, the original path that formed the lake, for the first time in many years.
Lake Liambezi is a hidden gem for birdlife and wildlife. Birding in Caprivi is particularly good due to the rivers, channels and waterways that make up the area. You may even be so fortunate to glimpse the elusive Sitatunga antelope. The next time I am on the road through Namibia, I intend to take a detour to Lake Liambezi to see its delights for myself. For more information contact Tutwa Tours.
Large groups can be catered for with breakfast, afternoon or morning teas, lunch and lunar dinners. Late closing over lunar rainbow period.
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From the thunderous cascade that is the Victoria Falls to the tranquility and calm of the Rainforest. Cool down= Recharge= After a hot, long walk, take the weight off your feet. Enjoy our service, tempting dishes, ice cold
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Pleasure in Paradise
Fallsfest is expected to attract a large crowd of people from around the world, the English, the Irish, Italians, and Australians - all who are coming together to enjoy and rock to the fantastic music we have on offer. Our biggest crowd pleaser this year is without a doubt The Parlotones, who have just finished their world tour and will be bringing us some of their best hits and an absolutely electrifying atmosphere – Defiantly not one to miss
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Book with us for low rates and great deals on all adventure activities.
EvictEd » Ghapi » Mann FridayKazz douiE » dJ Francis
wire is so tight around his neck there’s a lump on one side. He’s with about six others.
This happens frequently - a snared animal manages to break loose, with the snare deeply embedded. He causes appalling damage to himself, but is spared an
agonizing death, and may survive if the snare can be removed and the wounds treated. This is the role of the Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit -VFAPU
will immediately mount an intensive search and clear operation, since there is always more than one snare.
We find the impala early in the morning, an ideal time and situation. He is weak, resting in open mopane woodland. However, no matter how open it appears to us field workers, there is always a leafy branch, a tangle of dead vegetation in the way. To dart an animal one has to be very close and nothing must obstruct the path of the dart. In addition, placement of the dart must be accurate for the drug to work safely and effectively. So it is important that the darting team have a clear approach and the animal is disturbed as little as possible. In many circumstances we have found working from horseback is ideal.
An injured animal is always wary and nervous, impala especially so, so scouts watch him discreetly, until the darting team move in. Roger Parry fires, and the impala runs off as the dart bounces out. Roger retrieves the dart as I watch the impala. He runs for about 200 metres into mopane scrub, flickers through the leaves like a soft wind – then disappears. I cannot believe I have lost him.
Once again the scouts painstakingly comb the area but after several hours we have to give up. If the dart had taken effect it would have worn off already and it is now too hot. Darting is inadvisable in high temperatures. We decide to let him ‘unwind’ and try again the following day. I curse myself and think of all the things that could go
wrong with him.We find him at sunrise,
and Charles Brightman mobilises the team, Mr Mbewe from National Parks, and Roger and Jess Parry from Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust. Oddly enough, the impala seems healthier today. He is feeding well and has joined a different, larger bachelor herd. This makes it more difficult. The herd is alert, and we have to wait patiently for him to walk by a ‘window’ in a stand of Combretum.
Something startles the herd and they’re off. The team trudge patiently out the way as we ride after them. Now we ride slowly beside our target, gradually moving closer through the herd, waiting for the right moment. He is darted and off he goes – easy for me to follow this time, but one cannot chase, just watch from a distance. After an initial flight, he will stumble forwards, head high, disorientated as the drug takes effect. Only once he is down is it safe to approach.
After a few tense minutes we locate him, lying in the open as the herd browses nearby. The rest of the crew are there in seconds. Not an enviable task, running for miles through the bush lugging
medicine and sample boxes, 20 litre water containers and all the other paraphernalia required for any darting operation.
An animal must be treated and the antidote administered as swiftly possible. His head is held; he is blindfolded, and supported onto his sternum to keep his airways clear. His breathing and vital signs are monitored. Hyperthermia must be avoided so he is continually sluiced with water to lower his body temperature, hence the 20 litre container.
Minimal instructions are required as everyone gets to work. Roger removes the dart, administers antibiotics. Vital signs are noted, the snare is removed, wounds are cleaned and treated, and Jess collects her samples for research purposes. Within minutes we are finished and Roger administers the antidote as everything is packed away.
We all stand back as - nothing happens. We watch anxiously. At last the impala tries to stand. He staggers, collapses, staggers again, then totters upright, and turns to face Charles, wide eyed and bewildered on fragile legs. A beautiful photograph, but better is the smile on everyone’s faces as he reels off to rejoin his herd.
Elephant’s Walk Shopping Village is the place to be if you are an artist,
budding artist, buyer of all good things local or just someone who would like to enjoy the tropical surroundings and creative minds.
The first hint that you are close to this unique shopping village is the sounds of a marimba band.The Village is a two floor construction under thatch, built around an open courtyard. Invited artists and craftsmen are given an area from which to work and display their arts and skills. Apart from giving these local people a podium from which they are able to
express themselves and earn a living, their presence adds to the vibrant feel of the place.
Godwill Ruona was stranded when the taxidermy company he worked for closed eight years ago. He was given a small area in Elephant’s Walk backyard to do dipping and packing of trophies for (at that time) virtually non-existent hunter customers. He applied his skills to mounting fish for the local fishermen and soon his reputation was such that people were bringing their trophies from all the surrounding countries. He now has a studio in Elephant’s Walk that carries a collection of carvings, trophies and exotic knick knacks that only someone with a natural born talent would be able to put together.
Lewis Ncube arrived at Elephant’s Walk in
2001 wanting to sell his wildlife paintings. At that stage, business was slow and no shops were buying stock. Lewis was offered a table and chair in the courtyard. Today you will find Lewis at the same table and chair, even though he now has his own successful shop about five meters away. During the school holidays, budding artists sit around Lewis while he patiently imparts his knowledge to the next generation. His paintings now adorn the walls of homes and offices on all the continents in the world.
Pinias Sibanda used to work in a stone sculpture gallery in the 90’s. Today, Pinias and his twin brother, Piniel, are the
proud owners of their own gallery. Pinias is recognized as an authority on stone sculpture in Zimbabwe, and he has been responsible for the launch of a number of artistic careers – although he is only 30 years old himself. Shops in the complex showcase Zimbabwean designer goods, crafts from around Africa and a variety of other collectibles. Relax after meeting the artists in the courtyard restaurant and coffee garden, or enjoy a freshly baked cake or ice cream in the open air restaurant and lounge on the first floor.
A Melting Pot of CreativityElephant’s Walk is home to many talented people and you may discover or buy a piece
from a major new talent.
Every animal countsChristmas Fair
Stalls availablefamily day » father christmas for the kids » music » carols » food » competitions
10 December 2010, 3pm - Lateat the Elephant Walk shopping mall
22 Victoria Falls News
In a first for Zimbabwe, The Victoria Falls Hotel
has won a prestigious international award for the wine list in its flagship restaurant, The Livingstone Room. The Diners Club Wine List Awards recognise
We met Victor and Melody Mupanguri
in the pleasant surrounds of their outdoor restaurant in the Elephant Walk Shopping Village courtyard garden. We sat in the shade surrounded by palm trees and were served the most delicious coffee and learnt a bit more about the two of them. Victor and Melody are familiar, well respected faces in the community with extensive backgrounds in business management and catering. Through hard work and consistency they now run the Blue Baboon Cafe at Shoestring Backpackers Lodge where they serve meals to suit the busy traveller and the Garden Island Restaurant where one can enjoy a wholesome home cooked meal, all freshly prepared. They have just recently introduced Dial a Delivery for Pizzas – the only service in town!
Diners Club 2010 Wine List Award
Victor and Melody Mupanguri
The Elephants Walk Shopping Village273 Adam Sander Drive, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe Cell: (+263) 71 3 151 070
Open 8am - 5pm LastDinners by booking only. Confirm by 5pm
VISA Accepted
African Contemporary Cuisine & BarbequeBush Dinners Along The Zambezi | Wood
Fired Italian Pizza | Local & Imported Wines Gourmet Coffee
African Contemporary Cuisine & Barbeque
At Shoestrings Backpackers
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Karl Snater, GM Victoria Falls Hotel
establishments in various countries whose wine lists not only provide a balanced range of wines but that also best complement the food on offer. The Livingstone Room was awarded a Gold Award for its wine list.
Diners at The Livingstone Room have a selection of over 80 wines to choose from, catering for a range of pockets, palates and occasions. This selection includes champagne, Methode Cap
Classique wines, as well as reds and whites from South Africa, France, Italy, Germany and Spain. Staff have undergone extensive wine training, foremostly Livingstone Room wine steward, Monias Kufa.
Highly regarded for more than two decades by the wine trade, the hospitality industry and culinary experts, the Diners Club Wine List Awards reward excellence and encourage consistent improvement, and have played a major role in raising the standard of restaurant wine offerings.
Commenting on the 2010 competition, chairman of the judging panel, David Hughes, said that many of the wine lists entered this year had offered a wider choice in terms of price, with entry-level and mid-level wines providing a proper balance for the award-winners at the top.
“These are establishments who understand that, in the present economic climate, offering value is key to success and has as much influence on the dining experience as the food itself.
“Another heartening sign was that restaurants seem to be increasingly offering wine by the glass. In my experience, people
don’t readily order a bottle of wine they don’t know. Wine by the glass gives them the freedom to experiment without having to commit themselves to a considerable expense.”
He also praised the close relationship developing between menu and wine list. “Wine, after all, is there to complement the food, but for years wine lists and menus were treated as unrelated offerings.
“More and more restaurateurs are taking care in assembling a range of wines they believe
complement their food and then guide the patron by means of the wine list in making an appropriate choice.”
Karl Snater, General Manager of The Victoria Falls Hotel, said the award was recognition for the efforts by management and staff to enhance the experience of staying at the hotel. “We are delighted with this prestigious award and it will have the effect of inspiring our whole team to continue its quest for quality at every level,” he said.
23Victoria Falls News
Victoria FallsFactory: 452 Miles Road, Victoria FallsTel: +263 13 44495
“I had my most intense aesthetic experience when I was suddenly exposed to
the sublime beauty of the sculpture executed by
African artists.”- Pablo Piccasso
By Stewart Danks
Frank McEwan, the first Director of the National
Gallery of Zimbabwe, introduced Zimbabwe stone sculpture to the world with exhibitions he organized at the Museum of Modern Art in New York (1969), the Museum of Modern Art in Paris (1971) and the Rodin Museum in Paris (1972).
McEwan left Rhodesia in 1973 because of the developing conflict with black guerillas fighting to gain independence from a (then) white Rhodesian government. However he had helped launch and give artistic direction to a new sculpture movement.
The oldest true private gallery called African Art Promotions was established in 1970 and set up in No 2 Park Street in Salisbury. The first directors were Arturo Larrondo from South America and his Austrian wife Trude, and they were promoted by Roy and Denise Guthrie. Initially the aim of the gallery was to seek out new talent because most of the best sculptors were affiliated to the National Gallery.
It was not long before the best artists came to the Larrondos and asked them to sell their work. Sylvester Mubayi gave a frank
Each of these galleries organized many overseas and regional exhibitions which reignited what McEwan had begun, and Zimbabwe stone sculpture was once again hailed throughout the world. Many articles and books have since been written about the sculpture and the sculptors of the First and Second Generation, who are recognized by art critics and art lovers everywhere. Their work has been collected by royalty, Hollywood stars and politicians. One article in Newsweek claimed Zimbabwe had five of the top ten stone sculptors in the world.
Today Zimbabwe stone sculpture is in a healthy state. Sadly a lot of the older artists have died, but
Independence in April 1980 changed things dramatically and for a while Zimbabwe was the new international darling.
Zimbabwe Sculpture began to be recognized again with books like Shona Sculpture written by F. Mor, the Italian Ambassador, and Stone Sculpture in Zimbabwe by Celia Winter-Irving, a gallery owner from Sydney, Australia.
Also two new galleries came into being. They were Matombo Gallery and Stone Dynamics Gallery. The director of Matombo, Roy Cook, had an ambition to contract individual artists and acquire rights to all their work; in return he felt that he would be able to promote them better. This system worked in Europe but did not transplant well to Africa.
Stone Dynamics Gallery established in 1987 by Stuart Danks and Jonathan Croeser, who wanted to provide an outlet for younger artists. They also had the work of the old masters or First Generation but the gallery was the birthplace of some of the new generation artists, known as the Second Generation. Sculptors such as Brighton Sango, Gladman Zinyeka, Zachariah Njobo, Cosmos Muchenje, Eddie Masaya, Richard Mteki and many others started here.
explanation which was that the National Gallery was too slow in paying them for their work. Sylvester said the sculptors lived on their earnings and could not wait sometimes years to be paid.
This situation was exacerbated when McEwan left the National Gallery and the emphasis on sculpture faded. The new director, Professor Brian Bradshaw, was head of the School of Fine Art at Rhodes University in South Africa and commuted to Salisbury, and did not have time to devote to the sculpture workshop.
Three years later the Larrondos left the country and Roy Guthrie moved the gallery to Sinoia Street. Artists such as the late Nicholas Mukomberanwa and Henry Munyaradzi always appreciated the support the gallery gave them during this period and remained loyal until their deaths in 2002 and 1998 respectively. The gallery later changed its name to the Gallery Shona Sculpture and then Chapungu Gallery.
The 1970s were bad years for the artists and the sculpture suffered. The independence war raged on and Rhodesia became a pariah state with little contact with the international community.
Zimbabwe Stone Scuplturevictoria falls hotel home to beautiful works of art and finely crafted furniture
How an African art form arrived on the world stagetheir vision lives on. Stone Dynamics Gallery still has an open permanent exhibition at the Victoria
Falls Hotel and organizes overseas exhibitions every year.
24 Victoria Falls News
By Tara Petrolino, USA
But this wasn’t just any vacation. No, it was a celebration of two great friends, who were writing the next chapter
in their love story, and asked their friends and family from literally all over the world to help write it with them.
En route, halfway over the Atlantic Ocean, I got to thinking of when I first met Quid Luckhurst and Laura Jenkins. It was back in 2005 on their apartment deck in Hoboken, New Jersey - my home - for what would be one of many barbecues we would share. Little did I realize then that over time they would become two of my dearest
No Ordinary VacationMy itinerary read: JFK to JNB to VFA. Nine letters that would forever symbolize a trip of a lifetime.
friends, who would introduce me to their amazing friends and families. And never did I think I would be attending their wedding on a continent that no one in my own family has ever been.
So, after twenty hours of travel on what was undoubtedly my longest sojourn yet, I arrived in Zimbabwe for eight days of discovery, adventure, and oh-so-much fun!
The majority of us were staying at the Lokuthula Lodges down the road from the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge and were greeted on arrival by our very-nearby neighbors - the warthogs, bushbucks, and baboons. On first encounter, I couldn’t help but remember Dorothy from the Wizard
of Oz and quietly thought to myself, “Oh-my! I am definitely not in Kansas anymore.”
Quid, who was carrying my bags to my lodge, laughed, sensing my apprehension, and said, “Relax, Dorothy. You’ll be fine” and he was right. Within a day or two, these mostly friendly creatures would be as common a sight to me as pigeons on a New York City sidewalk...
I don’t think there are words to describe the magnitude of the landscape that is Africa. An endless canvas painted with the most incredible animals on this earth.
While on an elephant back safari, I was overwhelmed by the beauty of the desert landscape. As a young girl, growing up in the States, the Lion King was my only point of reference to Africa. But as I was carried along on the back of Coco, my 33-year-old elle, I realized first-hand that the magnitude of the bush cannot be captured in a movie. It just cannot fit on the screen. And here I was with a front row seat.
During the week, some of my friends were a bit more daring than I, signing up for white water rafting and gorge swings. I, however, opted for relaxing afternoons by the the pool at the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge with a glass of Chenin Blanc and my book. And it was in these quiet moments, when I was struck by the idyllic picture in front of me.
Just a couple hundred yards away was the Lodge’s on-site watering hole, and it was there where I was treated to daily visits by elephants, buffalo, and many more of their friends. I must have taken 100 pictures of the same scene each day, and yet, it never got old. Seeing these massive herds come in for a drink and sometimes a quick bath, and then, watching them leave, disappearing into the anonymity of the bush, reminded me to never take any moment of this trip for granted.
But perhaps the most majestic of all the sights in this region were the Falls themselves. Grandiose and commanding of the international audience that travels the globe to witness them, Victoria Falls offered all of us a view that simply took our breath away. And as you walk the path, surrounded by rainforest-like foliage and dampened by the mist swirling up from the bowels of the Falls, there is no denying why this place is one of the seven natural wonders of the world.
The excursions, the sights, the adventures that I had in Zimbabwe will forever stay with me, but more importantly, it was the people I spent this week with sharing meals, laughing, and dancing that will continue to color my memory for years to come.
It is incredible to think how many tens of thousands of miles were traveled for this event. And likely the most incredible sight of all was seeing the entire cast of characters- Zimbabweans, Kenyans, South Africans, Kiwis, Australians, Brits, Canadiens, and Americans too - all gather on the banks of the Zambezi River at sunset to see our wonderful friends, Quid and Laura, say “I do”! And in that one moment, we were all Africa!
Tara - USA
Janice Oosthuizen, Quid Luckhurst(Groom) Laura Jenkins (Bride) Brian Jenkins (Back) Sarah Stuart
On the left side : Chris Deville (UK), Steve Miller (USA), Sam Vandervord (UK), On the right side : Quid Luckhurst (Kenya), Laura Jenkins (Zim) Ashley Wagner (SA), Carly Baxter (Canada).
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
25Victoria Falls News
Savanna Backpackers LodgeAccommodation
Dorm/Single/Double RoomsA leisurely 10 minutes stroll from town
Enjoy fast and reliable internet service at our town office or oder a meal and a drink at Savanna Backpackers Lodge and get 30
Long and Short Term Volunteering!Conserve Africa focuses on the conservation and protection of our Wildlife Heritage here in Zimbabwe. Volunteering will enable you to experience the African bush in a very special and unique way. Spend each day out on the Reserve being actively involved in a number of conservation activities, working with endangered species such as Black Rhino and Painted Dog, and taking in local insight and knowledge on the various animal, plant and bird species that live in the Reserve.
Grit and determination are only two ingredients needed to get through the gruelling Zambezi Man Challenge. With 55kms of whitewater rafting; a 102 km mountain-bike ride and the 42.2 km Victoria Falls Marathon – this is an event for the exceptionally fit. Mana Meadows caught up with the winners of this year’s mens and ladies events, Ben Burr and Anika Thompson.
What preparation went into the race? Ben: I concentrated on shorter intense runs, and as many hours in the saddle as I could.
when rafting and was rescued by a boat full of ladies! Low points were the sandy sections on the bike ride and the last few kilometres of the marathon. Anika: I got a puncture 98 kilometres into the cycle and couldn’t fix it so had to run the four kilometres to the finish. I also got caught in a very scary rapid and thought I was going to drown! Did you feel like giving up at any point?Ben: Pretty often! You’re constantly pushing yourself and often ask WHY?Anika: Never. Well maybeafter I nearly drowned for a brief second!
What makes the Zambezi Man special compared to other adventure races / marathons that you’ve done?Ben: There is a great spirit
of camaraderie among fellow racers and organizers and stunning scenery that competitors are privileged to see.
Anika: The Falls being one of the Seven Wonders of the World just speaks for itself.
Continued on page 28
Anika: Ten weeks of intense, almost daily training.
Have you done anything like it before? Ben: I did the Kilimanjaro Man adventure challenge last year, the first Zambezi Man last year and the Great Wall of China Marathon in May.Anika: Only marathons – the 2009 Kilimanjaro Marathon and my first Comrades Marathon this year.
Did anything go wrong in the race? What were the low points?Ben: I lost my shorts and pants in Chimamba Falls
Words From The Winners Of The Zambezi Man Challenge 2010
Ben Hur, Zambezi Man 2010
26 Victoria Falls News
Activities
Interactive drummingand Traditional Meal: The Drumming Company. Phone: (013) 45828/44611. Email: k e l l y @ b a c k p a c k e r s . c o . z w
Activities
Full Day, Overnight & 2.5 Day trips.Vic Falls Adventure Zone Elephant Back Safaris, Lion Encounter, Tours & Transfers, Sales booking office for all other activities in town. Contact:
Shearwater Victoria Falls. Experience the Big 5 on Shearwater’s private game reserve, just 12km from Victoria Falls town and enjoy seeing Africa’s rare black rhino. Contact Shearwater Central Reservations P.O. Box 125, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, Tel:+263 (0) 13 44471-3, 42058, 40056-8 Fax:+263 (0) 13 44341 Cell:+263 (0) 712 406 668, +263 (0) 773 461 716 [email protected]
The Zambezi Helicopter Company. View the vastness of the Victoria Falls and it’s surrounds the best way! Take a helicopter flip and enjoy the magnificent splendour of the Zambezi River and it’s Falls. Contact The Zambezi Helicopter Company, Box 125, Zimbabwe. Tel +263 (0) 13 43569, cell: +263 (0) 773 080 909, +263 (0) 712 324 422. Tel/fax: +263 13 40059. Email: [email protected] w. Skype: zambezihelicopters Web site: www.zambezihelicopters.com
Vic Falls adventure Zone White Water Rafting - Half Day, Full, Overnights, 2.5 Day and 5 Day trips.Victoria Falls Adventure Zone Canoeing - Wine Route, Half Day,
Wild Horizons is a “one-stop’ activity provider offering a range of tours and activities including rafting, canoeing, elephant back safaris and high wire activities. Email: [email protected]
Lewes ncube Original Wildlife Paintings. A perfect momento of your unforgettable holiday. Visit me at Elephant Walk Shopping Village. Email: [email protected]. Cell: +263 (0) 712 750 230 or +263 (0) 772 941 855
Stone dynamics Gallery, The Victoria Falls Hotel. Home to Zimbabwe’s world renowned stone sculptures. For further information contact Stuart Danks, director, email: [email protected]
Artists & Art Galleries
The Larry norton Gallery. Original and reproduced fine art wildlife and landscape images available from this renowned artist. Visit this superb gallery in the historical Victoria Falls Hotel. You will find us in the Stables Lounge. Phone: +263 (0) 772 606 233 and +263 (0) 13 40076. Email: [email protected] and website: www.larrynorton.co.za
B&B
Good memories Self Catering Lodges. Conveniently located right in town, above Explorers Bar, rooms have twin beds, TV, ceiling fans and kitchen. US$23 for a double room. Email: [email protected] or [email protected] Telephone: +263 (0) 13 41201; +263 (0) 712 405 882
Lorries B&B, Victoria Falls. Full English Breakfast. Ensuite Rooms. Home cooked dinners. Your home away from home. Phone: +263 (0) 13 42139 or +263 (0) 712 406 584. Email: [email protected]. 10% discount on production of this advertisement.
mosi-Ua-Tunya B&B, six en-suite rooms, air conditioned, and additional family accommodation available. Located 603 Mahogany Road. Reservations call: +263 (0) 13 44336, email [email protected], cell +263 (0)772 462 837.
The New Zealand A cricket team, who were in Zimbabwe for an
unofficial test, came to Victoria Falls on a flying visit recently. Much to the children’s delight, their first port of call was the Victoria Falls Primary School where they held a mini coaching session.
This session gave the boys an opportunity to learn from professional players - the most important point was to always work hard at your game and to practice how you would play in a match.
Before being divided into three groups where various players were allocated to help the boys with their bowling, fielding and batting, a question and answer session was held. Questions
Local School Gets International Coachingranged from ‘Is the captain always the best player in the team?’ to ‘Do you get nervous before a game?’
Traveling with the New Zealand A side was a representative from the Zimbabwe Cricket Union who presented mini bats to the Grade Three and Four boys to keep them motivated in their cricket career.
The New Zealand A team manager, Rod Latham, has visited the Falls before but for most of the team this was a first. After visiting the school the team toured the Crocodile Farm, then took a boat cruise followed by dinner at The Boma. The next day they visited the Falls before flying back to Harare for their third test.
The A side is an extremely strong team with five or six members who were about to join the New Zealand team in India for an official test series in November, Eleven of the side have played for the national team.
Many thanks to Jono Hudson and Blessing Munyenyiwa for organizing this tour on short notice. The schoolboys will always remember the visit and the invaluable training in their cricketing years ahead.
Beauty therapyB&B
Booking Agents
Cafes and Coffee Shops
african Hide Cafe. Victoria Falls’s only outdoor cafe. Open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunches and dinner. Selection of freshly baked muffins and cakes. Located just up from the railway line, opposite the Municipality. Tel: +263 (0) 13 42994.
Catering Services
delicious Indian Cuisine. Seventh Heaven Foods (Pvt) Ltd. 523 Reynard Rd, Victoria Falls. Take-aways, catering for functions. Specialises in snacks and Indian dinners. Call Anju and Barry Nathoo on +263 (0) 13 40527/42348. Cell: +263 (0) 712 212 255/+263 (0) 775 121 406. Email: [email protected]
Charities
Once a month a number of Victoria Falls residents put together ‘goodie parcels’ with a few luxuries, mostly necessities for elderly people in the community that are struggling to make ends meet. Anyone wishing to contribute to this can email Cathrina Gover: [email protected] and Mel Hudson: [email protected]
rotary Club of Victoria Falls meets every Thursday at Ilala Lodge between 1:00pm and 2:00pm. For further information please contact our club president Victor Mupanguri on +263 (0) 772 126 904 or Anne Taggart, our club secretary on +263 (0)772 254 552.
Victoria Falls Tourism Police Unit. A donar funded iniative between private and public sector in conjunction with the Zimbabwe Republic Police to ensure a safe environment for visitors and local
residents within the Victoria Falls tourism area. Anyone wishing to assist in sponsoring one or more of the dedicated Tourism Police Officers please contact Kevin Fry +263 (0) 712 312 530
Cultural Activities
african culture and Chobe tours, including village trips, visit a cave used by the famous Lobengula and more. Call Sealant Safaris +263 (0) 13 40237; +263 (0) 772 279 083; +263 (0) 712 724 201; +263 (0) 712 545 034.
Traditional authentic lunches and dinners in the heart of the Victoria Falls community. Call Tsitsi on +263 (0) 776 144 080, Flatter on +263 (0) 712 926 678. Email : [email protected]
Sat 0800hrs - 1300hrs. 307 Parkway Drive next to Wild Horizons, tel: +263 (0) 13 40981, cell: +263 712 716 930
Hardware Stores
Hardware Zone, Victoria Falls for all your electrical, plumbing, painting and building requirements. Phone +263 (0) 13 42202, cell +263 (0)773 255 788, 426 Pioneer Road, Industrial Area
Horseriding Safaris
Dial a Delivery
Blue Baboon Cafe - wood fired pizzas, juicy burgers, healthy salads and more. Free delivery in and around Victoria Falls. Call +263 (0) 713151 070 or +263 (0) 772713577
Dinner River Cruise
experience the splendor of dining out on the Zambezi River at night. Capture the sunset and then enjoy a three course meal with us. Contact: +263 (0) 45929 or cell: +263 (0) 772243010. Email: [email protected] or [email protected]
Fishing & Fisherman
Fishermen flystreamers for sale, rods repaired. Call Tim +263 (0) 712 208 374
Fresh Produce
Zambezi Trading. For all your fresh fruit and vegetables. We can supply hotels and lodges. Fresh produce in stock daily. Located 283 Holland Rd, Industrial area, between Swift and Jaggers. For orders call +263 (0) 13 42237/44008/9. Mobile: +263 (0) 772 399 779 or +263 (0) 913 462 343
Furniture
Savanna Wood – hardwood furniture, decking & flooring. For Camps, Lodges & homes. We export worldwide. Factory: 452 Miles Road Victoria Falls, telephone +263 (0) 13 44495. www.savannawood.com
Hairdressing Salon
Victoria Falls Hair Salon. Professional sytlist. Cuts, tints, blow waves, high-lights, braiding and more. Open Mon-Fri 0800 hrs -1700hrs,
Hotels & Safari Lodges
elephant Camp. The Elephant Camp is a luxury and intimate lodge under canvas only 10 minutes from Victoria Falls and all it’s attractions and activities, yet secluded in it’s own private game reserve so as to allow close up encounters with wildlife. Email: [email protected]
Pamusha Lodge
ZAMBEZI NATIONALPARK
AFRICAN HIDE
ADVENTURE ZONE
HIGHEST TECINTERNET CAFE
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Shearwater
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Hotels & Safari Lodges
Ilala Lodge Hotel. The hotel is ideally situated being closest to the mighty Victoria Falls as well as the town centre. National Park borders the front of the property with the spray of the falls in the background. The Palm Restaurant offers superb cuisine while you relax and enjoy the atmosphere of the gracious surrounds. Bookings for Dinner and lunch essential. Tel: +263 13 44737/8/9. Email: [email protected]
Imbabala Zambezi Safari Lodge. Located in the Matetsi Safari Area with 14km of Zambezi river frontage Imbabala is reknowned for it’s game viewing and bird watching Tel: +263 (0) 13 44571,44426. Email: [email protected]. www.wildhorizons.co.za
The Victoria Falls Hotel. ***** Situated on a world heritage site, the legendary Victoria Falls Hotel overlooks the magnificent falls. This gracious 1904 hotel is set in lush tropical gardens that recall the romance of days gone by. Contact Sales and Marketing Manager. Email: [email protected]. Telephone: +263 (0) 13 44751/9
Victoria Falls Pharmacy shop No.3 Phumula Centre, close to Chicken Inn complex. Tel +263 (0) 13 44403, after hours cell: +263 (0) 712 4051269/+263 (0) 712 405 270.
J and m motors. For all vehicle repairs and breakdown services, mechanical & electrical. Wankie Motors Transport, domestic and International. Located: 1369 Pioneer
Repairs and Workshops
Road, Victoria Falls, Industrial Area. Tel: +263 (0) 13 42092 Fax: +263 (0) 13 43516, mobile John +263 (0) 712 612 315, Mike +263 (0) 712 606 977.
Restaurants
Garden Island restaurant, Elephant`s Walk Shopping Village. Gourmet coffee, cakes, wholesome, freshly prepared meals. Group bookings accepted for evenings. Contact email: [email protected], cell: +263 (0) 713151070, +263 (0) 772897845, +263 (0) 77 2 713577.
Jin’s Chinese restaurant, 571 Nyathi Rd, (APG Lodge). Contact +263 (0) 773663810 or +263 (0) 773874874 for bookings.
The Victoria Falls Hotel : Stanley’s Terrace, cosmopolitan lunchThe Victoria Falls Hotel: Livingstone room, fine dining with a 7 course menu.The Victoria Falls Hotel: Jungle Junction, international buffet and African Spectacular show. For bookings, contact +263 (0) 44751/9, email : [email protected].
Restcamps
Victoria Falls restcamp. Situated in the town centre offers affordable, safe accommodation. Includes self catering lodges, chalets, dormitories, semi luxury tents and camping. Along with a tours & internet desk & In-da-Belly Restaurant. Tel: + 263 13 40509 - 11. Email: [email protected]
Screenprinting
Screenworks, for all your screenprinting requirements. Get yourself a T shirt now!! It’s a souvenir; a weekend wear; a gift; an overland, backpacker’s wearable statement; it’s a rafting, game drive, canoeing, river boarding and bungi uniform. For more details contact Zenzo, cells: +263 (0) 713101297, +263 (0) 712614244 or +263 (0) 775728342. Tel/fax: +263 (0) 13 40237 or +263 (0) 13 41845. Email: [email protected] or [email protected]
Specialist Guide
Specialist Safari Guide – for keen wildlife enthusiast. Walking safaris, bird-watching trips, game drives, night drives in the Zambezi National Park and more! Contact Discover Safaris on email: [email protected], tel: + 263 (0) 13 45821 or cell: + 263 (0) 712 209 144
Trans-Fronteir Safaris. Walking, golfing, camping and fishing safaris around Victoria Falls and Hwange National Park. Call Kent +263 712 231 428, email: [email protected]
Zambezi Safari & Travel Co. Registered in the UK and ATOL protected, have a Professional Guide and Safari consultant based in Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia. We have 28 years of on hand experience on the ground here. Contact Chris Worden, professional guide/director. www.zambezi.com. www.bushcamps.com. www.luangwa.net. Email: [email protected]. Tel: 44 (0) 1548 830059 (UK head office) +263 (0) 13 44427 (Victoria Falls office). Cell: +263 (0) 774 109581. Skype: zambezi_chris. ATOL protected: licence number 10135.
Thatching grass suppliers, contact Derek Wilkinson, located in Banket, the grass heartland. Cell: +263 (0) 777560856 or landline: +263 (0) 66 2595. Email: [email protected] or [email protected]
Tours & Safaris
mapopoma Tours & Cruises, 36 Clark Road, Victoria Falls. Tel +263 (0) 13 42229/44283/44243. Fax +263 (0) 13 43463. Mobile + 263 (0) 712 216 629. Email: [email protected]. Activities: Tours &Transfers, Cruises- Sunset, Lunch, Breakfast bird-watching & Cultural Tours
Sealant Safaris, book now for your trip to Kariba, Mana Pools, Chobe or Okavango for canoeing or game drives. Contact details +263 (0) 13 40237; +263 (0) 772 279 083; +263 (0) 712 724 201; +263 (0) 712 545 034.
Tour Operators
PEARLS TOURSFor all your transfers, guided tours, travel assistance, accommodation bookings in and around Victoria Falls, contact us on +263 (0) 712 708 204, +263 (0) 13 44576, email: [email protected]
28 Victoria Falls News
A stunning representation of the Victoria Falls from different viewing points. It depicts the Zambezi River’s ever-changing
water flows throughout the seasons. Lunar rainbows, Sunrises, Sunsets, the Falls from all angles captured through the eyes of
the photographer, Tom Varley
The Magnificent Victoria Falls Coffee Table Book
A perfect present for anyone who visited the Victoria Falls – whether you had your own camera or not.….
Being so close to nature and its dangers is a rushon its own. The weather, scenery, wildlife and people were great – it was just a special experience. The combination of rafting, riding and running is unique.
Will you do it again? And will you do anything differently?Ben: Yes. I’d like to spend more time taking in the spectacular scenery! And I probably needed to put many more early mornings into training and use fatter tyres for the sandy sections.Anika: Wear a bigger life
By Darryl Tiran
Most suburban and hotel gardens provide
ideal habitat of large, leafy trees, pools of water and external lighting that attracts night flying insects, and are graced by these lively, stunning and very vocal flycatchers. The birds do a superb job of gleaning out hundreds of mosquitoes, flies, bugs and moths hiding in the leaves and shrubs in their territorial enclave.
This diminutive intra-African migrant appears in our area beginning of October, coinciding with the imminent flush of insect life due to warm and humid weather conditions. As soon as they arrive, usually the males first, territorial scraps take place for nesting areas and ideal feeding zones. As the females arrive there is much calling, chasing and shaking displays of the long orange tail feathers. Usually the older males will sport the longer tail feathers, while first and second year brood males have shorter tails but still often breed.
The females will prefer to select a mate with longer tail feathers, proof that he is fit and able to survive the predatory raptors while in migration mode. The
lengthy tail is literally a drag, especially under wet conditions which this species enjoys. On the Zambezi River and around hotel pools it is quite common to see the birds taking a dip in the water during the heat of the day, often unconcerned by other pool occupants.
Once the ideal nest site is chosen, usually in very close proximity to the previous season’s successful site, the male will solicit the female with juvenile sounds, mimicking the feeding of young. This shows his intentions of imminent nest building. The minute cup-shaped nest is constructed out of fine grasses, spiderweb, moss, lichens and a few downy feathers in the cup, and is built by both parents.
The nest is often lowly placed, at two metres, usually in a very conspicuous position, often near a wasp nest. Three pale blue speckled eggs are laid and incubated for two weeks. The well fed young soon outgrow the nest, and with in two weeks will cling to twigs near the nest, often taking flight prematurely.
The constantly active parents maintain a wary eye for egg and chick predators in the form of tree snakes,
Black-backed Puffback, Tropical Boubou, Orange-breasted Bush-shrike and Grey-headed Bush-shrike. Alarm calls are made as soon as a predator approaches, this usually attracts a variety of other birds that all join in on the fracas.
Snakes are mobbed by the males, attempting to dislodge them from the tree, again the long tail feathers making this lightweight bird appear much larger to the predator. Night-Apes are equally fond of a feast of eggs or chicks, and quite often a
Terpsiphone viridis
nest is suddenly emptied of its occupants during a night raid. Successful pairs that reside in a safe and productive territory will usually raise two broods per season.
The African Paradise-flycatcher is worth attracting to any garden, for colour, song and daily mosquito control. It is worth noting the rapid increase in mosquito pests within the home after the birds depart in April. This is a garden bird that definitely needs encouragement and protection. Vic.Falls.Birding www.vicfallsguide.com
jacket! It was an amazing experience but I don’t think I will do it for a couple of years. It was just far too much training and time away from my young kids.
Any suggestions for people wanting to take part in next year’s event?
Ben: Train hard, especially on the bike so that you still have legs going into the marathon. Take nutrition and hydration very seriously throughout the event.Anika: Train and train hard for both disciplines – it’s no fun doing this race unfit.
3 WINNERS & 3 COPIES
Are You an Aspiring writer or photographer?
Tom Varley, talented photographer and Blessing Munyenyiwa respected entrepreneur and Leon
Varley, professional guide have come together and produced a book that any visitor will cherish and look at time and time again. Aspiring writers and photographers stand a chance to win a copy of �e
Magni�cent Victoria Falls in the Zambezi Traveller’s “People of the Zambezi” competition.
�ree copies of this beautiful book will be given away to three lucky winners whose articles with photo-
graphs are published. �e stories will be published in the March-May 2011 issue, June-August 2011 issue
and the September-November 2011 issue.
We are looking for a 350 – 400 words with a maximum of two visuals.
All entries must be submitted as follows:Text must be in Microsoft Word and all images must
Win a copy of the Magnificent Victoria Falls in the Zambezi Traveller’s
“People of the Zambezi”
Words From The Winners..
The African Paradise-flycatcher
HwangeHwangeon your way to the Zambezi
By Peter Blinston
Education is a crucial element of any long-term conservation project. The Painted Dog Conservation
project in Hwange established Iganyana Children’s Bush Camp in May 2004, with international funding and support from the Ministry of Education.
The results of educational programmes are always slow to manifest, and the Hwange project aimed to bring about attitudinal change in the communities surrounding the national park. Now in its seventh year of operation, signs of success are becoming evident.
Wilton Nsimango, Education Officer at Iganyana, recently followed up one of the schools which had attended the bush camp. This village lies deep in the woodlands
bordering Hwange National Park and is perhaps the village that interacts the most with wildlife. Nsimango was attempting to measure the impact of the bush camp when he was approached by the parents of three of the children who attended the camp.
Two days after returning from the bush camp, three children still full of excitement and wonderment took a walk into the near by woodland, only to discover a series of freshly set snares. They raced back to the village and confronted their parents, imploring them to take the matter to the village headman.
The parents duly obliged and reported to the headman, who responded to the children’s pleas and followed them to the snares. The adults recognised the footprints of the poacher and so went to his home, only to find it empty.
Our informative Visitors Centre, situated opposite Hwange Airport is open seven days a week
...Townies Get a Taste of Bush LifeBy Luke Terblanche, Grade 7 teacher
Swollen with jackets, scarves and beanies, the 2010 Grade 7 class of Victoria Falls Primary School arrived on a
frosty winter morning at the Painted Dog Conservation Centre (PDC).
We were greeted by a friendly, professional staff who really made us feel welcome. As the PDC staff showed us around, there were indignant wails of disappointment from children and adults as it was revealed that there were pit latrines or ‘long drops’ as toilets, and no running hot water. It was clear that most of these ‘townies’ had never used a bush loo before!
The children began to feel at home as they unpacked and settled in to the bushcamp, which is a lovely place. It is evident that the education of children is at the very heart of the bushcamp’s ethos.
The guides established a good rapport with the children straight away and kept this special relationship burning throughout the trip. This is a difficult thing to do with 21 rambunctious children.
All of us, teacher and guardian included, received a world class education on the conservation of, not only the painted dog, but of the environment as a whole. We were shown how the PDC programme works hand in hand with local communities and children to promote conservation. Our respect for the painted dog as a super predator grew daily as we learnt how this amazing animal survives in the bush.
Freezing cold nights, fantastic food, camp fire stories, raucous games in the ‘arena,’ freezing cold showers, and the hands-on approach to education (we even got to fire a dart gun) provided a platform for a fantastic trip. The children, Charlotte Maroney and myself will be forever grateful to the PDC team. What a fabulous experience.
Village Kids Trap Poacher while...Knowing that the poacher would come and check his snares, an ambush was laid and as the sun began to set the poacher returned. He was arrested by the headman, who then escorted him to the local police station where he was charged with the criminal offence of poaching.
It had been one small victory in the never-ending war to conserve wildlife for future generations.
Walking Safaris in Hwange, Chizarira & Gonarezou National Parks.
Leon comments on the capturing of beautiful images in the coffee table masterpiece The Magnificent Victoria Falls.
I have one very clear image of the lengths
Tom went too to obtain some of these shots. For
months, every full moon, he would set himself
up on the lip of the Falls, the Devils Cataract on
one side and the main falls on the other, to film
the lunar rainbows. I accompanied him on one
of these occasions and we spent an exhilarating
few hours perched on our island before drifting
off to sleep. In the early hours of the morning I
awoke and looking around saw Tom on the very
edge of the abyss. Moving from one camera to
the next, fiddling with angles, adjusting focuses,
jumping lightly from one spray slicked rock to
the next with the mist swirling around him and
millions of gallons of water tumbling about
him, completely absorbed in his task. The parent in
me made my blood run cold but I did not call out as
distraction was the last thing he needed at the time.
The other side of me, someone who has also found
deep contentment in a profession that has its element
of risk, could only respect him for what he was about.
He was getting the best shot possible.
That’s his job.
‘Give me the night and give me the moon & I will paint you a masterpiece.’
Aware kids lead to the arrest of a poacher
30 Travellers Friend
Visa Requirementscountry Fees car FeesZimbabweCountries that DO NOT need a VISA: Antigua, Aruba, Bahamas, Barbados, Belize, Botswana, Caymen Islands, Congo, Cyprus, Fiji, Grenada, Jamaica, Kenya, Kiribati, Leeward Islands, Lesotho, Malawi, Maldives, Malta, Mauritius, Montserrat, Mozambique, Namibia, Nauru, Samoa, Singapore, Solomon Islands, South Africa, St. Kitts, St. Lucia, St. Vincent and Grenadines, Swaziland, Tanzania, Trinidad and Tobago, Turks and Caicos Islands, Tuvalu, Uganda, Vanuatu, Zambia.
Most NationalsSingle Entry: US$30Double Entry: US$40
BritishSingle Entry: US$55Double Entry: US$70
Passenger Car: US$10
Car InsuranceUS$30 - valid for 1 month (If no proof of insurance)
Carbon TaxDependant on size of engine
Namibia - Katima/Mulilo (Caprivi) Border Hrs: 6am - 6pmCountries that DO NOT need a VISA: Angola, Armenia, Australia, Austria, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Belgium, Botswana, Brazil, Canada, Cuba, Denmark, Finland, France, Georgia, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Kenya, Lesotho, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malawi, Malaysia, Mauritius, Mozambique, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, Russia, Singapore, Spain, South Africa, Swaziland, Sweden, Switzerland, The Scandinavian countries, Tanzania, UK, USA, Zambia, Zimbabwe.
Botswana - Kazangula Border Hrs: 6am - 8pmCountries that DO NOT need a VISA: Antigua & Barbuda, Australia, Austria, Bahamas, Barbados, Belgium, Belize, Brunei/Dar es-Salaam, Canada, Cyprus, Denmark, Dominica, Fiji, Finland, France, Gambia, Germany, Greece, Grenada, Guyana, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Jamaica, Japan, Kenya, Kiribati, Lesotho, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malawi, Malaysia, Maldives, Malta, Mauritius, Namibia, Nauru, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Papua New Guinea, Portugal, Samoa, San Marico, Seychelles, Sierra Leone, Singapore, Solomon Islands, South Africa, Spain, St. Kitts and Nevis, St. Lucia, St. Vincent, Swaziland, Sweden, Switzerland, Tanzania, Tonga, Trinidad and Tobago, Tuvalu, UK, USA, Uganda, Uruguay, Vanuatu, Yugoslavia, Zambia, Zimbabwe.
25 Pula - US$4 Passenger Car: 120 Pula - US$19
Required Car Insurance:50 Pula - (US$8) - valid for 3 months
Zambia - Victoria Falls Border Hrs: 6am - 10pmCountries that DO NOT need a VISA: Antigua, Barbuda, Bahamas, Belize, Botswana, Brunei, Cyprus, Dominica, Fiji, Grenada, Jamaica, Kenya, Kiribati, Lesotho, Malawi, Maldives, Malta, Mauritius, Namibia, Nauru, New Zealand, Samoa, Seychelles, Singapore, Solomon Islands, South Africa, St. Kitts, St. Lucia, St. Vincent, Swaziland, Tanzania, Tonga, Trinidad, Tuvalu, Uganda, Vanuatu, Zimbabwe.
Single Entry: US$50
Double Entry: US$80
Day Tripper:$20
Passenger Car: $30 - valid for 1 year
Car Insurance$30 - valid for 1 month (If no proof of insurance)
Carbon TaxDependant on size of engine - avg. US$45
Medical RequiReMents (for the above mentioned countries) Malaria precautions - Strongly
Advised Hepatatis A & B - Recommended
Polio Shots - recommended Typhoid - Recommended
Please visit your doctor before you travel. The above mentioned are just recommendations.
notes - Vehicle charges are for passenger cars only. Other fees may apply- Information for tourists only. Different requirements apply for business travellers.- Information Valid on November 1, 2010
Park FeesNAMIBIA
Park Namibian Residents SADC Residents Other Vehicle
Etosha Park, Fish River Canyon: Aj-Ais & Hobas, Skeleton Coast Park, Naukluft Park: Sesriem & Sossusvlei, Waterberg Plateau Park
Other Parks N$10 (US$1.40) N$30 (US$4) N$40 (US$6) N$10 (US$1.40)
NOTE: Children under the age of 16 can visit park for free
ZAMBIA
Park Zambian Citizens SADC Residents Other Vehicle
South Luangwa & Lower Zambezi
25,020 (US$5) US$20 US$25 US$30
North Luangwa 20,160 (US$4) US$15 US$20 US$30
Mosi-oa-Tunya 15,120 (US$3) US$5 US$10 US$25
Kahue 20,160 (US$4) US$5 US$15 US$10
Lochinvar, Sumbu & Kasanka
15,120 (US$3) US$4 US$10
Other Parks 10,080 (US$2) US$2.50 US$5
NOTE: Children under the age of 5 can visit park for free. Children aged 5 -13 years old pay 50%
BOTSWANA
Park Botswana Citizens SADC Residents Other Vehicle
South Luangwa & Lower Zambezi
10 Pula (US$1.50) 30 Pula (US$4.50) 120 Pula US$18 Bots Registered - 10 Pula (US$1.50)Foreign Registered - 50 Pula (US$7)
NOTE: Children under the age of 8 can visit park for free. Children aged 8 -18 years old pay 50%
ZIMBABWE
Park Locals SADC Residents Other Vehicle
Rainforest US$5 US$20 US$30 Zim Residents US$2
Other Parks US$1-3 US$8-12 US$10-15 Non Zim Residents US$5
NOTE: Children under the age of 6 can visit park for free. Children aged 6 -12 years old pay 50%
Source to SeaContinued from Page 10
Lake Cahora BassaWe had a trouble-free border crossing into Mozambique but were held up in Zumbo for a few hours by very high winds. Once through, we had our second brush with a crocodile in the swamps at the top end of Lake Cahora Bassa and had to paddle for our lives. Cahora Bassa lived up to its eerie and ominous reputation and again we faced strong winds and giant waves. The water was also brown and required filtering before we could drink it. We paddled straight down Cahora Bassa as well, taking eight and a half days. There was heavy fish-netting going on everywhere, and we noticed a lot of Zimbabwean refugees on the dam. The last 40km up the gorge to the dam wall was stunning. At this stage we were both exhausted and on strong antibiotics for infected feet.
Cahora Bassa GorgeWe spent two days resting, repairing equipment for the final push and taking a recci down into the gorge below the dam wall. There were three floodgates partially open. We
finally set off, and, with the help of 12 porters, carried our kayaks and all the gear round the wall. This took five hours in country that made the Kariba Gorge look like a ditch! An epic hike!Once back in the water again, we came across a couple of very big rapids, remnants of the same Kebrabassa Rapids which halted David Livingstone’s attempt in the 1860s to use the Zambezi River to open up the interior of Africa. The water for the next 60km was truly terrifying: big whirlpools, boils and pressure points. I ended up swimming four times. On one occasion I spent 20mins hanging onto my kayak with both arms and legs while giant whirlpools tried to suck me down. Even with a safety rope on me, Francois still couldn’t pull me out of the main current into an eddy. TeteWe stopped to look round the Boroma Mission (built around 1890) just upstream of the town of Tete. This abandoned Catholic mission station is stunning and well worth a visit. Just below Tete I had a very very close shave with a huge crocodile. Thankfully there was a pattern and we had developed evasive measures! The crocs would come at you full speed on the surface and when they were within 10m they would lock on and dive, coming in underwater. When they dived we would hit the rudder and change direction.
This would normally put a bit more distance between the croc and the kayaker. The croc would often come again, lock on and dive again, requiring more hard rudder! Terrifying stuff. Very strong currents and the high water level of the river allowed us, on numerous occasions, to paddle over 80km a day. Although we had the strong current on our side, it was by no means an easy ride; it still required ten hours of hard paddling to get this kind of progress. A far cry from the 18km paddled in the first couple of days.
Continued on Page 39
Warren Willis and Francois Kruger take a break
Paddling for our lives
LusakaLusakaon your way to the Zambezi
Be Challenged in Siavonga in 2011
Zambezi Airlines Profile
Zambezi Airlines commenced operations
as a domestic carrier on 15th July,2008,servicing the main Zambian cities and towns of Ndola, Kitwe,Livingstone, Solwezi and Chipata with a 30-seat Embraer Brasilia turboprop aircraft.
Within days of the launch,the airline signed a contract with GE Commercial Aviation Services (GECAS) for the lease of a Boeing 737-300 series aircraft which management planned to utilize in expanding services into the SADC region during the second quarter of 2009.However,after a detailed survey of the market,it was decided to
sign a new contract with GECAS for two Boeing 737-500 aircraft instead.
The two aircraft were delivered to Lusaka in May,2009 ,enabling the airline to launch daily flights between Lusaka and Johannesburg,Ndola and Johannesburg and later thrice weekly flights between Lusaka and the Tanzanian city of Dar es salaam.
Zambezi Airlines has during its short but eventful existence, built a reputation for excellent inflight service as a full service airline,based on the reknowned Zambian hospitality.Its vision is to operate a world class airline based on international standards and connecting
The MTN Siavonga Canoe Challenge this year saw 18 teams participating and raising funds for two Zambian charities. The next event will be held in June 2011; traditionally combined with a cook-out competition, next year will see the first ‘Master Chef Siavonga.’ Participants can bring with them as many spices, herbs, cook books and utensils as they like but will only be supplied the ingredients on the day and given four hours to produce a two- or three-course meal on a beach fire.
all the major SADC cities.The airline which made
history by becoming the first Zambian carrier to operate the 500 version of the popular 737,chose to lease the modern aircraft from GECAS because of the company’s reputation.With 28 offices worldwide,GECAS is the second largest aircraft leasing and finance company in the world with over 1,800 owned and managed aircraft placed with more than 260 customers in over 70 countries.
Configured for 12 Premier Business Class and 99 Economy class seating,the airline’s aircraft are powered by new technology,fuel efficient
CFM 56 engines which also offer passengers a quieter cabin.
The two aircraft which were joined by a third 737-500 in June 2010,are maintained by Jetworx(formerly Saftech) in Johannesburg which is a Boeing Aircraft Company and Federal Aviation Authority (FAA) approved maintenance facility.
Zambezi Airlines employs highly trained personnel such as pilots.Most of the cockpit crew have between 38 to 20 years flight experience after training at some of the world’s top flight training schools,at Oxford,Hamble and Perth.They have flown for reputable airlines in Zambia,Kenya and
The Siavonga Soccer Chal-lenge is scheduled for July / August 2011 and will invite local companies to sponsor a team in a seven-a-side tournament. This is a fun event to encourage sport in the community.The Siavonga Wipe-out Challenge in September is based on the overseas TV program. Teams will be eliminated in water and beach based games and the event will be followed by the Potjie Competition which has become popular with the local Siavonga community. Chefs will cook a potjie on the beach
using ingredients of their choice, to be judged in a blind tasting with prizes for first, second and third places.
From 10 – 12 December 2011 the second annual Siavonga Tiger Challenge will be held, timed to coin-cide with the closed fishing season in Zambia since no sport fishing usually takes place on the rivers from No-vember to March each year. The event attracts a large number of local anglers and is aiming for an interna-tional status next year. Visit www.siavonga-zambia.com
the UK.They undergo regular recurrent training at the FAA approved British Airways/Comair training facility in Johannesburg,South Africa.
Its friendly cabin crew were especially selected and trained in Zambia and South Africa.The airline’s philosophy of total customer satisfaction is particularly inculcated in the cabin crew and other frontline staff.
In keeping with modern aviation trends,Zambezi Airlines utilizes modern information technology systems and is fully e-tickettable.Customers have the opportunity to book on line and also choose a convenient
payment option from the comfort of their homes or offices.
Heading the Management team which consists of highly qualified and experienced aviation industry professionals,is Managing Director ,Mr.Wilfred Amstelveen who has a wealth of experience in the airline industry having been involved with aviation for than 25 years.
The Board of Directors is chaired by Dr.Maurice Jangulo,a respected Zambian businessman who owns and manages a regional agro-business with operations and offices in Zambia, Malawi, Mozambique,Tanzania and Zimbabwe.
Gerritz Restaurant and Catering is owner run by German chef, Gerrit Pelchen and his Zambian born, theatrical wife Siri Pedersen. Gerrit escaped from East Germany in 1973 and began his working career in the hotel and catering industry in Munich, Germany. In 1985 Gerrit and Siri were married in Munich and began their honeymoon on the
German cuisine in the heart of LusakaGerritz Catering has become an institution in Lusaka
shores on Lake Tanganyika, running Nkamba Bay Lodge. From there they proceeded to run Munda Wanga Botanical Gardens and Zoo, just outside of Lusaka. It was here that they developed a passion for hand rearing monkeys, baboons, Lion & Tiger cubs, serval cats and bush babies. The natural progression was to raise a cub of their own, hence the
arrival of son, Skye, in 1990. As Siri concentrated on hand rearing their son, Gerrit became the first executive Chef at Lilayi Lodge. In 1995 Siri opened Gerritz Catering, concentrating on outside Catering in and around Lusaka and in 2002, after adapting her family home, extended this to include Gerritz Restaurant. Gerritz Catering has become an institution in
Lusaka, catering for one and all, big and small and Gerritz restaurant has since become a landmark for excellent cuisine. Skye is
following in the family tradition and is currently studying in Cape Town, South Africa, to become a chef.
Chobe
10th December - Carols by Candlelight, All Welcome Audi Centre (Kasani Enterprise Car Park)
Kariba Country Club is having a Christmas lunch with all the trimmings, people need to book in advance on 061 2283 or 0773 384501 Limited seating available @ $20 / person. Kariba Country Club is having our normal New Years bash, music by Deon Erasmus, Night at the Oscars, theme Black and White, Champagne & Canapés to be served, booking essential @ $15 /head and other party goers @ $10 /head. Till late !!
Warthogs are having a kids xmas tree party on 11th December, with father xmas and a giant water slide. If people have kids that want a present from Father Xmas we need to know name, sex, age. Cost will be around $10 per child.
Warthogs New Year’s Eve we are doing a Pig in a Drum for dinner and music until the DJ falls over. Cover charge to be announced.
Livingstone
4th DecemberChristmas Fair - Stalls, fun kids activities, Santa’s Grotto, Livingstone Golf and Country Club 09.00 – 13.00 hrs
Tuesdays & WednesdaysYoga Classes 08.30 – 09.30, Livingstone Golf Club Phone +260 213 327 120 or + 260 979959981
15th – 18th DecemberTri-Nations Junior Golf Tournament, Livingstone Golf Club Phone +260 213 320440/321673 or +260 967275709
24th DecemberChristmas Choirs and children’s plays 19.00 – 21.30 hrsLivingstone Arts Café. Phone +260 213 323346 or +260 977371700
25th DecemberChristmas day 3 course lunch – reservations at Waterfront.Book – [email protected] or phone +260 213 320606
25th December Christmas Day church service. 09.30 hrs. All welcome. Anglican Church, John Hunt Way. Livingstone.
31st DecemberNew Years Eve Waterfront Party with D.J. and marqueeUSD20p.p. phone +260 213 32606 [email protected]
1st January 2011New Year’s Day Golf Tournament, Livingstone Golf Club Phone +260 213 320440/321673 or +260 967275709
Victori Falls
10th DecemberElephants Walk Christmas Fair - Elephant’s walk shopping complex Victoria Falls15.00 hours till late
19th DecemberKasane Challenge Match Play, Elephant Hills Country ClubContact : [email protected]
30th DecemberFallsfest - Parlotones, Evicted, Mann Friday, Kazz Douie Victoria Falls Rest Camp
31st DecemberFalls Fest - Ghapi, Evicted, Mann Friday. Kazz Douie Victoria Falls Rest Camp
December at Shoestrings
4th December 2010 – The New Moon Party – 16:00 till 12:00. Great DJ’s, Drum and Fire poi show, an appearance from the Tin Can Kids and the Mikishi Dancers, cocktail jugs, Vodka Jellies and wide selection of shooters, beers and spirits to choose from. Please note: $5 cover charge (Includes a free drink and a donation to the Tin Can Kids)
18th December 2010 - Just A Party Party – 16:00 till 12:00. Silly season is full swing, why not rattle it up some more with another party! Vic Falls’ most popular DJ’s, Drum and Fire poi shows, traditional dancers and a wide selection of shooters, beers and spirits to choose from. Please note: $5 cover charge (Includes a free drink and a donation to vulnerable people)
24th December 2010 – Carols by Candlelight – Starts at 18:00. Really get into the Christmas spirit by coming together the night before Christmas and singing some songs of joy and cheer. Adults $3 cover charge, Kids FREE! (Includes candle, candle holder and song sheet) Stick around after for some jolly old fun and laughter, its Christmas time, we are all together, lets celebrate!
Keep up to date with upcoming events at Shoestrings Backpackers Lodges on Facebook. Shoestrings-Backpackers-Lodge. Events include appearances from The Tin Can Kids, Traditional Dancers from many different cultures, Drum & Fire Poi shows and Interactive Drumming Circles & Traditional Meals with the The Drumming Company, and much much more…
Livingstone NewsLivingstone News
By Evelyn Roe
Many water-lily species, due to their
delightful appearance in aquatic habitats, are named after the Greek nymphs, supernatural feminine beings associated with springs. Nymphaea species can be seen flowering at river edges, in seasonal ponds and even in water-filled tyre-tracks on muddy roads.
Water-lilies are thought to be among the most ancient of flowering plants and might provide an evolutionary link between the gymnosperms (such as conifers and cycads) and modern-day angiosperms.
They contain entheogens, which are psychoactive substances used for spiritual purposes, and this may explain why the lotus was used as a sacrament in ancient Egypt and the flowers placed in the tomb of Ramesses II.
Teas made from water-lily petals have
a mildly sedative effect. Don’t try this at home, as water-lilies contain a wide range of bioactive compounds, some of which are poisonous!
These compounds might provide an urgently needed treatment for the control of antibiotic-resistant strains of bacteria, such as MRSA and VRSA, which are a major cause of infections in humans. Laboratory tests show that Nymphaea lotus [see photograph P1] leaf extracts combat Staphylococcus aureus infections over a range of concentrations.
Water-lily leaves are well-adapted to their aquatic habitat with
numerous air spaces and a network of sturdy veins to support the floating leaves. The leaf stem is hollow and transports air from the surface to the underwater rhizomes, which can grow to a massive size. Some water-lily leaves are purple underneath, the additional pigments helping to maximise photosynthesis. [See photograph P2]
Much of the life cycle of a water-lily takes place under water. A few days after the flower is pollinated by insects [see photograph P4], the flower stem tightens in a spiral to submerge the flower head. The fruit develops underwater into a spongy
Nymphs and SnowflakesPlant Encounters
P1
P3
P2
P4
Note: The aquatic plant Nymphoides indica, [see photograph P4] known as the water-snowflake, often rubs shoulders with water-lilies, but is not in the same fam-ily…so don’t mix up your nymphs with your snowflakes.
Evelyn Rose studied botany at the University of Edinburgh and now works as a field researcher with the North-West Naturalist’ Society of Zambia. Look for her book Wild Flowers of Victoria Falls in local bookshops or email [email protected]
berry with up to 2000 seeds. [See photograph P3] When ripe, the buoyant seeds are released, and dispersed by water currents or water birds that eat them. As they become waterlogged, they sink into the mud to germinate and begin the life cycle again.
Royal Livingstone Express
34 Livingstone News
Once again, Sun International Zambia scooped all the major awards and most importantly, was announced
overall winner of the 2010 Imvelo Awards for Responsible Tourism.
In addition to being named overall winner, Sun International Zambia also received three other awards for ‘Best practice - economic impact’, ‘Best social involvement programme’ and ‘Best overall environmental management system’.
“This is the second year running that we have been named overall winner of the Imvelo Awards. It is an important achievement for us as the Imvelo Awards recognise tourism and hospitality businesses that make a real,
Sun International Zambia Duly Recognised For Their Responsible Tourism Initiatives
measurable and sustained contribution to responsible tourism. Entrants are judged on examples of corporate and social responsibility like community investment initiatives, local outsourcing, community health, welfare and education activities, promotion of local SMME enterprises as well as local HIV/Aids and other social programmes,” Joanne Selby, General Manager, Sun International Zambia.
The 2010 Imvelo Responsible Tourism Awards were fittingly announced yesterday on World Responsible Tourism Day (10 November 2010) in Johannesburg. Now in its ninth year, the programme received 209 category entries (compared with 183 in 2009), with 23 tourism businesses making it to the finals. The Imvelo awards have had a huge impact on tourism in South Africa, creating significant awareness of environmental management issues in the industry.
The awards are in line with the Responsible Tourism guidelines for the South African hospitality industry and the UN World Tourism Organisation’s code of ethics. The Federated Hospitality Association of Southern Africa (FEDHASA) is the custodian of Imvelo and the main sponsors include; The Department of Tourism, Absa, Department of Water Affairs, Eskom, Industrial Development Corporation and Heritage Environmental Management Company.
Responsible tourism is the fundamental basis of how Sun International Zambia conducts its daily business. Since its opening in 2001, Sun International Zambia has taken its role as a stakeholder in the community to heart. It has embarked on a number of developmental projects and partnerships with local communities to create and enhance sustainable sources of revenue in the region.
With a high prevalence of HIV/AIDS and poverty, Livingstone town has many orphaned children and street kids. Caring for these children is a community responsibility and Sun International Zambia has partnered with other stakeholders to assist local orphanages with educational material, food, clothing and other essentials.
Additionally, Sun International Zambia is involved in a variety of different health programmes as Livingstone community has insufficient health facilities to cater for the local population. The company sits on the Livingstone HIV/AIDS and Malaria task force committees and is very active in making decisions that influence the health of thousands of Livingstone residents. It also supports special health projects in the province, namely; Batoka Children’s Hospital and St Joseph’s Hospice.
Equally important as health, is the need to facilitate education.
In an effort to bring about positive change to the Livingstone education system, Sun International united with the government and other cooperative partners to improve the facilities at Zambezi Basic School, Mukuni Basic School, Kazungula GRZ Primary School, Siyanalumba Basic School and Christ the King Basic School. Renovations to classrooms have been undertaken and in some instances additional classroom blocks have been built.
Sun International Zambia is involved in several hydroponic and open-field farming schemes. The projects consist of a number of components, namely: An onsite hydroponic greenhouse and propagation house at the resort; this extends to two farming blocks for the blind in Linda and Mapenzi (more than thirty households of 4-6 peoples per household); one farming block (5 acres) for widows and HIV/AIDs positive women in Nsongwe, the women’s mushroom growing project in Maramba, the Farmers Market which supports over 400 small scale farmers; the aqua culture-fish-farming project at Katombora Reformatory Centre; and the egg rearing farm which supplies over 200 trays of eggs per week to the resort.
Together with the support of their guests, Sun International Zambia is able to reach out to the most socially vulnerable in the surrounding community making measurable changes in their lives.
35Livingstone News
By Gill Staden
The wet season has never been considered
a good time for visiting Africa. Most tourists think that the rains mean that animals are difficult to see in our thick forests and roads are hard to travel. This is true, of course, but the rains are the most special time of the year. Nature is at its best and the storms are glorious, if not a little frightening, to experience.
In October when it is extremely hot, trees are pushing out their flowers, ready to drop their seeds during the rain. Birds have started building their nests to rear their chicks. By November, the environment receives its first rain and the animals
are ready to drop their young.
As the wet season progresses, the landscape becomes verdant and alive with birds feeding their chicks, young birds learning to fly; animals being born and gambolling through the bush or finding their feet within the herd.
The survival of the young depends on the amount of rain that falls during the months December to March; in years of drought, many may die. Fortunately we have had excellent rains for the past few years, with last year being one of the highest in living memory.
In Livingstone we have a seasonal river called the Maramba which flows into the Zambezi River. The Maramba receives floodwater from many
small tributaries north of Livingstone. Generally the river is placid as each tributary in turn fills and sends its water down to the Zambezi. But one day in March last season all the tributaries conspired to fill at the same time and to send torrents down the Maramba.
Many of us went to watch in the pouring rain as the Maramba River rose. We stood by the bridge linking Livingstone to the Zimbabwe border. Many of us thought that the bridge would give way under the force of the water as it hurtled underneath. The river flooded huge areas along its banks; Maramba River Lodge and the Crocodile Park being most affected. The road, too, was covered in water. Eventually, though, the floods subsided
and the bridge survived. I went to the Victoria
Falls after leaving the Maramba on the same day, and I watched as the water from the Maramba overtopped the Falls; full of
Why Not Visit the Zambezi in the Rains?
PHOTO:TOM VARLEYChocolate river season
mud and looking like coffee. Even the mist felt like it was full of mud.
Scenes like this one – Africa at its most wild – are one of the beauties of the wet season. Along with all
of nature’s forests, birds, animals and insects which flourish during our rains, the weather itself can create the most memorable moments.
Patmark Ltd. Air-conditioned internet café, printing, photocopying, wireless internet access, coffee shop. Open daily. Living-Inn Complex. John Hunt way. Opposite Anglican Church. Phone +260 213 322107.
Thunderbird Investments.Fax facilities, internet access, photocopying, printing, scanning, cd burning. Mosi-oa-Tunya Road. Telephone +260 213 320331. email: [email protected]
Restaurant
Laughing Dragon Chinese Restaurant. Superb Sichaun cuisine. Take-aways and restaurant. Self contained local accommodation. John Hunt Way, behind Post Office. Phone +260 213 322 555
Ngolide Restaurant. Indian and continental cuisine. Famous for Indian curries, great vegetarian selection. Take-away service available. Groups welcome. OpenTuesdays-Sundays. Located Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, next to ZRA. Email: [email protected]
King Pie. Café/Take-aways. Tasty pies with assorted fillings steak, pepper steak, steak with kidneys or cheese, chicken, chicken and mushroom or ham and cheese. Sausage rolls, deep friend chips, muffins. Cold refreshments. Mutelo Street. Opposite Hindu Hall.
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PO Box 60014, Livingstone, ZambiaCorner Obote Avenue & Mosi-Oa-Tunya Rd
Accounting, Audit, Company Secretarial,Corporate Finance, Tax
Accommodation
Stay at Chanters Lodge in Livingstone. Great food, wonderful garden with pool. Comfortable reasonably priced rooms. In Lukulu Crescent off Obote Avenue. Phone +260 213 323412. Email - [email protected] http://twitter.com/livilodge
En-suite airc-onditioned rooms with DSTV, room safes, telephone, tea/coffee facilities. Double rooms with mini fridge and LCD TVs. Continental breakfast included, bar, restaurant, secure parking, conference facilities, activity booking agent. Phone : +260 213 321091/2. Located Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, 2kms from town. Email [email protected] www.ngolidelodge.com
Tabonina Guest House. We offer Zambian hospitality at its best. Rooms are en-suite, air-conditioned, TV, fridge, WIFI. Prices range from $30 to $60 per room including continental breakfast. Swimming pool and gazebo. Activities can be arranged by our friendly staff. 3 Maina-soko Street, off Katete Road. Email [email protected] www.taboninaguesthouse.com. Phone: +260(0) 979465288
Accommodation
The Wane Guest Lodge.Comfortable, affordable self-contained rooms, air-conditioned, DSTV, 24 hours security. Stand-by generator. Off Lusaka Road, next to cross roads. Phone +260 (0) 977881536 Tel/fax +260 213 324058 email: [email protected] www.waneguestlodge.com
Activities
Walk with rhino on a three hour ‘walking safari’ in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. Inclusive of pick-up and drop off, park fees, professional guide, game scout, light breakfast, half-way snacks, cold water/soft drinks. ‘Take a walk on the wild side’. Livingstone Safaris, Telephone +260 213 322267. Mobile +260 (0) 977450716 email : [email protected]
Technical Sprayers Services/Crop Serve. We sell quality day old chicks. Stockfeed for broilers. Fertilizers and chemicals. Vegetable and maize seeds. Chemical sprayers. John Hunt Way, opposite Anglican Church. Tel: +260 (0) 97 655 3035
Airline & Bus Tickets
Southend Travel. IATA member. Livingstone Airline reservations and ticketing on domestic, regional and international flights. Free quotation. Ticketing and reservations for Intercape bus for routes to Namibia, South Africa, Lesotho Border and Mozambique. Livingstone town centre, Mosi-oa-Tunya Road. Phone +260 213 320241/320773/ 322128. Email: [email protected]: southend.travel
Auto Repair
Bennett Engineering. Professional engine assembling, vehiclemaintenance and servicing, skimming of cylinder heads, reboring/skimming engine blocks,
Auto Repair
press fit conrods, test/set/fit injector nozzles, fitting of cam bushes, vehicle diagnostic, imported spares from South Africa. Mosi-oaTunya Road, opposite Spar. Contact : +260 978308936, +260 213 321611.
Beauty therapy
Lusi Beauty Salon andHairdressers Barber shop, manicures, pedicures, dreadlocks and braids, facials, cosmetics and perfumes, ear piercing, hair dressing for all occasions. John Hunt Way, opposite the Anglican Church. Cell +260 (0) 966 3211 36. +260 (0) 977412291.
Easy Life Beauty Spa. For nail care/ body/ facial treatments.Contact Linda +260 (0) 97 7792281 Living-Inn Complex.
Boat Cruises
Cruise Boat: The river cruise is a superb way to relax and see a variety of game, including hippo, crocodile and elephant. The sunset cruise includes finger snacks, beer, wine, local spririts & soft drinks. Email : [email protected] Tel : +260 213 322 765.
Books & Stationary
Visit Bookworld. Your one stop shop! An exciting selection of books available for Christmas presents. All text books and stationery for the start of the new school year. Contact us +260 213 321414
Livingstone Bible Room. We sell Christian Literature and other related materials. Living-Inn Complex. Phone +260 (0)97 7389960
Reflections. Good stock of Christmas and Valentine Gifts/cards/camping equipment. Find us at the Falls Park Centre and Mosi-oa-Tunya Square. Phone +260 (0) 97 77 88 575
Car Hire
Thunderbird Investments. Car Hire. Car Rentals. Taxis. Tours. Mosi-oa-Tunya Road. Telephone +260 213 320 331 [email protected]
Chemist
HK Pharmacy and Photo Studio.We offer quality and service. Stockists of medicines andimmunity boosters, body suppplements, vitamins and vaccines, maternity and baby products, infant formulas, veterinary and agricultural products, diagnostic tests. Full range of beauty preparations. Film processing, digital and printing. Photographic supplies, digital cameras and accessories. Studio photos - passport, visa and portraits. Open Monday - Friday 08h00 -18h00. Saturdays 08h00 - 14h00. Livingstone town centre, Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, opposite Standard Chartered Bank. Phone: +260 (0) 213 324296.Email: [email protected]
Musamu Chemist Ltd. Prescriptions, cosmetics, diagnostic tests, veterinary products. Open Sundays and daily 08h00 - 20h00. Livingstone town centre, opposite Post Office. Phone : +260 213 323226, +260 (0) 979276839
Health and Glow Pharmacy. We dispense care. Town Centre, opposite Shoprite. 217 shops, opposite Mosi-oa-tunya Square. Phone +260 213 322249
Crafts
The Craftsman. Handmade Brusiloka African Crafts. Find us at the Activity Centre, Zambezi Sun International. Mobile + 260 977 488063 email: [email protected]
Design and Print
Fallstech. We specialise in artwork, printing, t-shirts, sports clothing, banner designing, mounting bill boards, letter heads, business cards. Opposite Makuwi Park, Phone +260 (0) 97 6403 088 email: [email protected]
Fishmonger
Davey’s Fish Shop. We sell dry and frozen kapenta, filleted bream, tiger and crayfish. Sausages and game meat. Ice cubes and ice blocks. 217 shops opposite Mosi-oa-Tunya Square. Phone +260 213 323345. +260 (0) 969 886 801
Livingstone Lodge for sale. Fully operational lodge, 3 minutes from town centre. Set amoung mature trees and grassed lawns. 5 en-suite air-conditioned chalets,bar, dining terrace, staff quarters, swimming pool, 4-bedroomed house. Perimeter wall and electric fence. Price USD$230,000 Phone +260 (0) 977 630 159+267 721 16479.
Savanna Wood. Hardwoodfurniture, decking and flooring for camps, lodges and homes. We export world wide. Lusaka shop - Twickatane Road, off Addis Ababa Drive, next to Ababa House, Lusaka. Tel : +260 211 255 989
Shar Hardware Stores Ltd. We sell quality, we are the best, forget the rest. Phone : +260 213 321258/321990 Fax: +260 213 323148 [email protected] Atapelwa Road, off Mosi-oa-Tunya Road.
Hardware
Vadoma Limited. Suppliers of bui lding/plumbing/electr ical materials. Paints, capentry, glue products, glass cutting, agents for TAP supplies. Contact : +260 213 322521 +260 (0) 977 141 874
Copies are available from: Local Hotels and Lodges and coffee shops
Cell: +263 (0) 712 217178Advertising in Livingstone news contact Mary Lowe on email: [email protected]
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37Livingstone News
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Acacia International School in Livingstone
moved into its new purpose-built premises on the Kazungula Road in September this year. Founded in 2003, the school was originally located in the garden of Zig Zag, and then moved to Flamboyant Lane where it remained while the new premises were constructed.
“The story of the school has been a remarkable tale of growth and success since its foundation,” said Brycahn Gilbert, headmaster. “From the very beginning, the drive and initiative of the parents has been fundamental to the school’s growth and development.”
Central to the success of the school has been its investment in, and training of its staff. The school has recruited both local and international teachers. John Curtis, the first headmaster, described his association with the school as “an opportunity not to be missed.” He was succeeded by Kathryn Stephenson, whose experience in teacher
training continued to promote the development of the school.
Brychan Gilbert has more than 12 years experience in international education. “I am very impressed by the spirit of enthusiasm
that drives the school. The input from the parents has been tremendous. We have a diverse group of students who are enthusiastic and happy to be at school.
“We now aim to develop
New Home for Livingstone School
“Being one of the biggest events in Livingstone, the Local Regatta held at the Livingstone Boat Club, on the 16 October 2010, was exceptional. Home to the mighty Zambezi,
Livingstonians enjoy the river’s challenges and the Regatta has remained one of the best events celebrated in Livingstone.
The people were so excited as they had fun and fed their eyes on the
company contestants from Sussi and Chuma, Protea, Zesco, Madison and the Railways of Zambia, battling their way to victory in inflatable rafts.
They all began the race with so much determination
A Student’s Take on the Livingstone Local Regatta
and vigour, but it soon became a case of survival of the fittest, rowing the 100 metre race in October heat was not easy!
The Boat Club team were the winners, taking most of the medals, followed by Auto World teams A & B. All thanks
to the sponsors Zambezi Nkuku, Zain, Railways (RSZ)and Raft Extreme for making this yearly event another success.”
a first-class international curriculum that is relevant both locally and globally. We are determined to be a positive force in our local community.”
Chairman of the Board of Governors, Chris Hopes, commented “We are very excited about the potential of this new site. We have succeeded in producing a safe, secure and stimulating learning environment for our children and this is only the beginning.
“Acacia International School serves as an example of how a shared vision, determination and collaboration can benefit a community both now and in the future.”
Isabel S. Ngenda is a 16 year old student at Linda Secondary School in Livingstone with a keen interest in journalism, which started when she attended Chinotimba Primary School in
Victoria Falls. The aspiring writer came to the attention of the directors of Zambezi Nkuku when she visited her mother Florence Musunda’s workplace at the Zambezi Nkuku farm and then wrote a story about it. Impressed with her enthusiasm and determination, the directors offered their help and guidance as part of the Zambezi Nkuku’s People Empowerment Programme, which provides encouragement, opportunities and mentorship for motivated students and others. Following is Isabel’s story on the Zambezi Regatta, which was supported by Zambezi Nkuku:-
38 Livingstone News
By Sonja Clay
The first Bridge Festival celebrated the 105th
birthday of the steel arc bridge over the Zambezi River, next to the Victoria Falls. The festival was a day filled with family fun, including a steam train ride down to the bridge, free slides for the youngsters, various food stalls offering a selection of “tastes from around the world,” games for the younger children, and for any brave parents, the full range of adrenaline activities.
St Andrew’s Anglican Church, a Livingstone
landmark, was built in 1910. A presentation on the
history of the Livingstone Anglican Parish was given earlier this year by Clare Mateke, daughter of the late Fr Whitehead, who lived in the Church House for 10 years and still worships and plays the organ at St Andrew’s.
The first Anglican priest to serve in Zambia was Fr Herbert Hale, a Railway Missioner, who arrived at the Old Drift settlement in 1904. He had come up on the partly built Bulawayo-Victoria Falls railway line.
The Old Drift was a crossing place on the Zambezi at its narrowest point, where there were no islands (now in the Mosi-o-tunya National Park), used by traders, hunters and anyone going north. Fr Hale
Centenary Celebrations for Anglicans
wrote of his first visit in 1904 “Everyone had malaria. Drink and fever claims victims. In the corrugated iron store a man lay dying of drink and malaria. Two days later I buried him.” The
deceased is the first name in the Livingstone Parish Register, “A. W. Findley, 9 January 1904.” He was 35. The grave is one of those still to be seen at the cemetery in the Mosi-o-tunya National
This year the Anglican Church celebrates 100 years in Zambia.
St. Andrews Church and Church House, 2010 Park about one kilometre west of the Old Drift.
The settlers moved into the new town of Livingstone in 1905, since the location of the Old Drift was so unhealthy. The Anglicans started meeting for Sunday services in the courthouse (behind the current New Fairmount Hotel).
On his last visit Fr. Hale conducted the first Anglican wedding in Zambia, between Dr. Donaldson of Broken Hill and Miss Fry of Francistown in the court house on August 18, 1906.
The wedding reception was held at Clarke’s Hotel Bar.
In 1909 Fr Frederick Rogers of the Railway Mission was appointed to be the first priest to work the line north of the Zambezi, responsible for the line between Livingstone and Kabwe. Each trip up the line and back took him about a month, so Livingstone was able to have a Communion service roughly every month.
The diocese of Northern Rhodesia was formed a year later and Bishop John Hine was appointed to be in charge of this huge, undeveloped diocese. In 1910 Bishop Hine arrived in Livingstone by train.
The Church Committee at once invited him to lay the foundation stone of their new building. This the Bishop did on June 5, 1910. The area was then in the bush, with no roads.
The church building was designed by C. Hazard, a government official, in the Cape Dutch style with gables which were later removed. The builder was Donald Beaton, taking 10 months to complete the project. It was dedicated to
St Andrew by the Bishop on April 11, 1911.
Fr William Webster arrived in 1910 and became the first priest to serve in the new church building. He began a church log which records many important events throughout the life of the church. The first recorded Anglican baptism was of Martha Muller in June 1910 and that of an African Anglican was of Bertha Nthambere on July 31, 1910.
Today the Anglican Church in Livingstone has five congregations and over 1,300 members. For the celebrations in Livingstone, a 60-page booklet “The story of the Livingstone Anglican Parish: The First Century” was produced, based on material collected and written up by the late Canon Denys Whitehead, Priest-in-Charge of the Livingstone Anglican Parish from 1980 to 1989. The material was edited by Canon Jock Hockly, long time Church Warden of St Andrew’s Church. This article consists of extracts from this publication.
The First Bridge FestivalA tribute to this engineering feat and the men who built it
The festival coincided with the launch of guided Bridge Tours, hosted by a local actor playing the part of Georges Imbault, the Engineer who worked on the bridge in 1904-5. He transports the listener back in time with tales of the engineers’ experiences while they worked on what was at the time the highest railway bridge in the world. Today it is a wonder of Victorian engineering and a landmark providing striking views of the Victoria Falls, Batoka Gorge and the Zambezi River.
The tour includes a guided walk around the Bridge Visitors Centre, which is also open to the public with free entry. This is a great fresh new product to the area providing both an enlightening and entertaining experience.
After the tour, visitors can refuel at the Bridge Café overlooking the spectacular gorge, with a viewing deck from which to watch bungi jumpers, gorge swingers or gorge sliders. And of course there is a shop to allow you to “get the T-shirt.”
39Travellers Friend
No trip to the Zambezi would be complete without spotting some elephants. If they could talk to us, these
majestic creatures would have many tales to tell, but few more colourful than Mashumbi, the matriarch of the Elephant Back Safari team at Thorntree Lodge in Livingstone.
Mashumbi was orphaned in Gonarezhou National Park in Zimbabwe and hand-reared by local farmers. In 2002 she arrived in Livingstone to join the team giving elephant rides to tourists.
Five weeks after she arrived in Zambia her adventure began, when she was abducted by a herd of 14 wild elephant bulls and taken into the wilderness. A rescue team of handlers was sent out to find her, but lost her trail in the rain-soaked bush.
She had been lost for ten months when she was spotted not far from Thorntree, easily identified as she has little hair on her tail and no tusks. Attempts to rescue Mashumbi from the ground proved unsuccessful, and help was requested from above.
Kevin Kinton, an experienced helicopter pilot with Batoka Sky, was only too happy to help and he was able to herd the bulls away from Mashumbi. It seemed like Mashumbi knew they were trying to help her and she was able to break away from the herd and allow the ground team to guide her to safety.
The Thorntree herd were pleased to welcome Mashumi back and lined up to greet the helicopter. Each elephant lifted their front legs in a vote of thanks to the rescuers.
Once back in the herd, it transpired that Mashumbi was in calf. Her daughter Chavaruka is now a healthy six year old and many years from now will probably take over from her mother, as matriarch of the Elephant Back Safari team at Thorntree.
Mashumbi’s six month old calf, Chavaruka
Meet Mashumbi, Matriarch of Thorntree
40 Travellers Friend
Source to SeaContinued from Page 30 Thankfully, the last crocodile incident occurred when we were only two days short of the Indian Ocean. We passed the confluence of the Mazoe and Shire Rivers, witnessing a large number of deserted villages along the banks in Mozambique - the local villagers having been forced to evacuate because of the floods. There was not much evidence of fishing / netting or river traffic here. This could either have been because of the floods, or possibly over-fishing, or even the presence of so many crocodiles. We saw little sign of fish life, but plenty of birds and no mammals at all, except a spitting cobra with which we shared our campsite one night!We noticed quite a lot of local fisherman along the river banks fishing with what looked suspiciously like mosquito nets! We paddled through the Lupata Gorge, site o a controversial new dam proposal, and passed under the Dona Ana railway bridge - the longest in Africa at 3.5km. It was very impressive. Sadly, we encountered bad weather in Mozambique at this stage, with rain and overcast skies - good for paddling but not for taking photos. We paddled under the amazing new 7km road bridge at Caia and stopped to visit the grave of Mary Moffat (David Livingstone’s wife) at a mission nearby. The mosquitoes here were so bad that we had to eat our evening meal and get under our nets before sunset.
The DeltaWe pulled in at Marromeu, a sugar plantation town in the Zambezi Delta with its sugar mill currently on shut down. Here we tried to organise a ski boat to come down to the Zambezi River mouth to collect us as there are no roads to Chinde, the town at the coast approx 80km downstream. A Zimbabwean eventually came to our rescue.
We camped at Marromeu that night with the intention of spending two easy days getting to the mouth. The river here is lined with coconut trees and not as wide as I expected. Approximately 35km from the mouth, the river splits into two channels and becomes tidal. The channel to Chinde is not very wide and is relatively unimpressive, with some big crocs still present and the mangroves starting to become evident. We were hoping to sleep around this point and have an easy paddle to the ocean in the morning but the banks were now entirely mangrove, so we decided to push on to Chinde. The OceanApproximately 8km from the ocean we began to feel the ground swell of the waves, which gave us a boost. We first sighted the ocean around 6pm on 1st May. It was an amazing sight, even though the Zambezi River itself at this point is still not very impressive. We pulled into Chinde harbour that evening and pitched camp.Early in the morning, we paddled the four kilometres to the ocean itself, and spent a few hours on the southern headland celebrating with a bottle of champagne and some cigars that we had carried the whole way with us. The mouth of the Chinde Channel at this point is approximately three kilometers wide.
It was a huge relief to be off the river at last. In the last ten days I began to seriously doubt that we would finish without one of us being hit by a crocodile. We had both lost a lot of weight; I lost nearly 40 pounds on the first leg and about 20 on the second. We drove back from Marromeu through a beautiful 25000Ha hardwood forest where we saw red duiker and vulturine guinea fowl. There is a sawmill and lodge run by an ex Zimbabwean just off the main road 30km from Caia. It’s rated as one of the best birding spots in Southern Africa and well worth a visit.
ConclusionsThe best part of the entire Zambezi River, apart from the Zimbabwean section, was Angola because of its remoteness and beauty. The worst part was the Cahora Bassa Gorge because of its truly terrifying water.After now seeing close up the entire length of the Zambezi, the approximately 750km that touches Zimbabwean soil is by far the wildest, least spoilt and most valuable. We have do everything possible to keep it this way. The rest of the river has its moments and some stunning sections but there is an almost complete lack of larger mammals and some very heavily populated areas. It is not only the abundant big game and stunning vistas that sets Zimbabwe apart, it is also its people. From the moment we entered Zimbabwe until we crossed into Mozambique, we were offered every kind of assistance - from the guys who gave us the contents of their coolerbox in Matusadona our first beers in nearly 2000km, to the families who put us up and fed us in Kanyemba.I also think it is time that people such as myself who have grown up on the Zambezi River started to put a little something back. Otherwise, in all likelihood, we will lose what we value most to the pressures of unscrupulous hunters, oil exploration and general abuse.In the future, when my son asks me where are all the buffalo and lion have gone, I don’t want to have to tell him that we sat back and did nothing or shot them all.” Warren Willis, 2010
Diving into water in close proximity to several Nile crocodiles usually doesn’t rank highly on most
peoples’ to-do list. Undaunted, Brian and Jaclyn Nielsen have begun an ambitious project to provide precisely such an opportunity.
Brian, a qualified dive instructor and offshore supervisor, is supervising construction of a large diving pool at the Elephants Walk Shopping Complex which will house several large crocodiles, hopefully all exceeding six feet. The first of its kind in Zimbabwe, not to be missed by adrenaline junkies.
Meet a Crocodile -
Underwater
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