Decanter PANEL TASTING

Rías Baixas Albariño These wines are arguably Spain's best whites and are leading the way in exports, as consumers seek out their food-friendly mineral and peachy notes, says John Radford

Developing styie Today the vineyards are rnature, the vines trained beguilingly on pergolas so that the grapes are shaded from the sun in the hottest part of the year, and far enough off the ground to be safe from predators like wild boar.

Albaritio has been compared with Riesling, and Miguel Torres has planted both varieties side by side in his

1 experimental vineyard. He says they are indistinguishable on the vine, but vinify in different ways. Young Albaritio has a wonderful, fresh, peachy fruit which is a perfect match for the local cuisine, strong on seafood and shellfish in particular. Some producers do barrel-ferment Albaritio, but mainstream wines tend only to be matured on their lees in the tank. In the past, the advice was usually to drink the most recent vintage, but over the years a few producers, especially those with very old vines, have made wines to last, and it's now not unusual to see vintages at anything up to five years old and, in exceptional years, more. The wines tend to lose some of their freshness as they age, but take on instead a mature, steely dryness, of great cornplexity and concentration - with prices to match.

There's long been rivalry between Rías Baixas and Rueda for the title of 'Classic White Wine of Spain'. It's a moot point - different grapes, soils and climate - but certainly Rías Baixas Albariño has made a big impact on

2 markets in Spain and abroad and. if the increasing export '$ figures are anything to go by, it will continue to do so. I -

E John Radford is the D W WA Regional co-Chair for Spain

Santiago de Comla,in

Albariño: know your vintages (Starratings are the official verdict of the Rias Baixas Consejo)

AGAINST A BACKDROP of falling sales elsewhere in the wine world, Spain did rather well in 2011, with exports up 17%. The wines of Rlas Baixas in Galicia led the way, via exports of 5.6 rnillion bottles: an increase of 18.6% in volume and 16.8% in value over the previous year. The main grape, Albarifio (which must make up a minimum of 70% of the region's white wines), is the key to Rías Baixas' success. and most of the best wines are rnade exclusively from the grape. Other varieties used include Treixadura and Loureira.

One of the biggest challenges the DO has faced since its foundation in 1988 is the size of the vineyards. It's a craggy, Atlantic coastal landscape, and even today the average vineyard holding is only 0.59ha. leaving little scope for economy of scale: a classic example is Martin

2011 **+* (provisional) Warm spring, some problems with excessive heat in the surnmer, magnificent September and abundant quantity. Probably to drinksoon.

\

201 0 **** Cold and rainy winter '

and spring but very hot August and September resulting in low acidity. Drink soon.

2009 **** Rainy spring and summer but a hot September provided wines with good balance and higher than usual alcohol. Drink: 2012-2014

Códax, a former co-op with one of the largest vineyard

2008 +*+A cold and wet spring

holdings in the region: 250ha, but in 1,200 different plots. The region is divided into five subzones, from north to

south Ribeira do Ulla, Val do Salnes (the original and largest area, on the coast around Cambados), Soutomaior, and O Rosal and Condado do Tea on the Portuguese border.

'Albariño' means 'white Rhine' and there are written records of the grape dating back to the 12th century, supposedly brought by monks from Alsace on the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Albarillo thrived in Galicia and, although low-yielding, promised top quality from very early on. The Atlantic climate helped: cool and wet by Spanish standards, lush and green in the surnmer, but with a pink-tinted granite bedrock under the soil - the ideal conditions for growing cool-climate grapes.

led to a cool, wet sumrner giving higher acid and lower alcohol. Drink up.

RLas Baixas subzonur 1 Ribeira do Ulla

P O R T U G A L 2 Val do Saln6s 3 Soutomaior

I o 5 10 15 20 4 O Rosal A Guarda, 7

kilometres 5 Condado do Tea

I I

2007 ***** High ternperatures during the ripening period caused a smaller than usual vintage, but wines of excellent quality. Drink: 2012-2013

2006 ***** Another very hot, dry year with low yields but excellent quality: one to keep. Drink: 2012-2015

2005 **+** Good weather in the spring and throughout the ripening season, but with adequate rains to ensure the health of the grapes. A classic vintage. Drink: 2012-2015

Rías Baixas in figures (2011) Area of vineyards 3,966ha (of which 96% is Albaritio, up from 94% in 2001) Number of vineyards 6.617 Number of bodegas 181 Production 286,988hI (41,905hl exported) Permitted yield (Albariño) 74hl/ha >

D E C A N T E R A u g u s t 2 0 1 2 1 7 7

Decanter PANEL TASTING

The r----lts An excellent performance, with 95% of these affordable, food-friendly wines recommended, and our judges urging wine lovers to keep them for a few years to reap the greatest rewards. Tina Gellie reports

ElGHT WlNES OF 74 new-release Albariños scoring above 18.5 points out of 20 (95/100) is an excellent hit rate, and brought a real buzz to the Decanter tasting room.

Sarah Jane Evans MW and John Radford, the joint Regional Chairs for Spain at the Decanter ~ o r l d Wine Awards, said it was a privilege to taste such a high-quality line-up. '1 arrived slightly nervous about what we were going to find, but I was really blown away,' said Evans. Radford added: 'The big question has always been whether Rueda's Verdelo or Rías Baixas's Albariño is Spain's most classic white. And on this showing, it's clearly got to be Albariño.'

Ferran Centelles, sommelier at the recently closed elBulli (a five-time winner of the World's Best Restaurant), said he was 'proud to be Spanish' with results like this. 'People think Albariño is a common grape, but the quality here shows it's got great potential.'

A key point to come out of the tasting was how well many of the wines had aged - one of the Outstanding wines was a 2005. Centelles said consumers 'should not be afraid' to keep Albariños from top producers for three years or so after bottling. Radford agreed: 'The conceived

'People think Albariño is a common grape, but the quality here shows it's got great potential' Ferran Centeiies

wisdom with Albariño is that you should drink the most recent vintage, but in fact nearly al1 of the 2011s we tasted here needed another six months in bottle, if nota year. This became obvious when we tasted the 2010s, which were much more together and well knit.'

He did admit, however, that with the seafood that Galicia is so famous for, the young 2011s, with their firm acidity, would be better. But the 'mature gamey richness, completeness, complexity, structure and power' of the 2009s made them 'delicious' with or without a meal.

Centelles was quick to defend the 2011s, whose searing acidity he preferred to the 2010s. 'lt was an over-productive year but I still think it has huge potential,' he said. 'lt's more classic in style than many big, peachy,

The scores 74 wines tasted

Outstanding

36 Highly recommended

Recommended

Poor

Faulty

25 Good value

(£12 and under)

Ferran Centelles 1 John Radford Ferran Centelles has been a sommelier at John Radford is a freelance writer, Ferran Adria's famous elBulli restaurant broadcaster, lecturer and speaker and the since 1999. Today he combines the role of Decanter World Wine A wards Regional wine director at elBulli Foundation with co-Chair for Spain. Radford has hada other projects such as Outlook Wine (The lifelong love of Spain and has written Barcelona Wine School) and Wineissocial 1 severa1 books on the wines of the country. in Spain. Centelles won the Ruinart Best He edits the trade magazine CHEFand also Sommelier of Spain award in 2006. writes for publications in China.

Centelles' verdict 'The fact that we saw such high overall e 'This tasting was one of the best in terms scores in this tasting makes me very proud, - of sheer quality of Albariños, among any

as a Spaniard, ofhaving an indigenous grape with such enormous potential for quality and pedigree. This tasting surpassed my expectations.

'We also saw differing styles - on one side the peachy, floral, fruit- driven Albariño, and on the other a more restrained, fluid, salty and stony style which lingers on the palate leaving a really energising finish.

'2010 proved to be an easier-drinking vintage, with riper fruit and probably less ageing potential than 2011. Although 2011 was the most productive vintage ever, it was magnificent. The cool, rainy ripening season gave the wines an electrifying palate with the soul of ancient times.

'Most of the wines were ideal food wines; Albariño's acidity matches perfectly with the saltiness of different seafoods but can cope with a more complex array of dishes: light, refreshing salads with lemon vinaigrettes, crunchy green vegetables, lberian ham and fish tartares are great pairings.

'The pinnacle of the tasting was the older vintages. The courage shown by the producers in releasing wines with three or more years' age certainly paid off - their wines had greater complexity and finesse. So please, keep the best Albariños for a few years before opening to enjoy a real surprise.'

7 8 1 A u g u s t 2 0 1 2 D E C A N T E R

Radford's verdict

I've been to in the past year or so. Rías Baixas has upped its game considerably since my first visit - admittedly, more than 20 years ago - and, perhaps.most importantly, it has managed to get top-quality wines on the market at reasonable prices: in some cases at much the same cost as they were in 1990, thanks to better vineyard management and economy of scale.

'It is perhaps not surprising that six of the nine Outstanding wines are from the Val do Salnes, the oldest-established and largest subzone: the producers there have had longer to perfect their wines and get them to market, as well as having a mainly coastal climate.

'It was good to see some older vintages in the tasting - indeed, the 2009s and 2010s showed very well, while some of the 2011s were still a little raw and most likely need more time in bottle to settle down and lose some acidity.

'There were, as always, one or two disappointments, but the overall standard was astonishingly high - I marked 29 of the 74 wines as Outstanding, which has never happened before.'

Rías Baixas Albariño higher-alcohol vintages that came in the four years before it, and the crisp green fruit, bright acidity and lovely saline note go well with seafood.' He said the more complex character of the 2009s would still work well with seafood, but particularly dishes with creamy sauces or Mediterranean herbs.

Evans said at f 10, these wines offered great value, and 'something original' compared with more ubiquitous whites such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay or Chenin Blanc. And itls clearly a message not just to buy only the famous wines, she added, as lots of relatively new producers had done well: 'Particularly in 2011, which was seen as a dilute vintage but to which we gave consistently high scores and where the wines were forthright and expressivel.

She backed her fellow judges' feelings that Albariño should not just be drunk young. 'Quality has improved dramatically over the years and the wines are now worthy of some bottle age.' Radford said 10 years was probably the longest you'd want to keep an Albariño. 'lt's like Beaujolais - early doors they're fabulous, fruity, delicious wines; another few years they close up like a clam. Then leave it another couple and they open up again, showing lovely petrolly notes, like Riesling.' However, Evans warned that while the 2005 was superb, many others would be tired at that age, so there was no guarantee.

Individual scores and notes appear in addition to the average score for al1 'Outstanding' wines. For 'Highly Recommended' and 'Recommended' wines, individual and average scores are listed but tasting notes are combined. For individual notes for these wines, go to Decanter.com/ albarino.

CORRECTION: In our Chablis tasting (July) Domaine Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin's Mont de Milieu and Vaillons is in fact stocked by Domaine Direct, which was incorrectly listed as stocking Damien & Romain Bouchard's Vaillons

Sarah Jane Evans MW Sarah Jane Evans MWis a member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros de Vino forservices to Spanish wine, and the Decanter World Wine A wards Regional co-Chair for Spain. She is currently deputy vice-chairman of the lnstitute of Masters of Wine, judges wines internationally and is also a wine writer.

Evans' verdict 'My scores speak for themselves, with 20% of wines above 18.5/20 points and

just under 50% scoring above 17.5pts. Albarifio deserves its reputation as Spain's best white. There may be strong competition from subtle, textured Garnachas, vividly fresh Verdejos, rapidly improving white Riojas and top quality Godellos and blends, but this tasting showed that in terms of consistency and drinking pleasure, Albariño still has the edge. A decade ago it had high prices and glamour but quality was variable. Today, after serious work in the vineyards, it is firmly on form.

'The tasting also showed the diversity of the terroir. The vineyards are scattered from the coast to more sheltered inland sites, across a variety of soils, and the wines show the influence of the vintage. Many wines defied the classic description of Albariño's white peach fruit and freshness - like Muscadet, only richer. The 2011s offered immediate pleasure with brisk grapefruit, apple and sherbet lemon, perfect for shellfish. The 2010s revealed a rounder, easier, complex richness, offering exotic fruits and lemon curd - these are the adaptable food wines. The greatest pleasure was the final flight from 2009 back to 2005. Albariños can be worth waiting for.'

Mar de Frades, Algareiro 2011 Decanter average score: 19pts/20 (96pts/100) Individual judge's scores: Ferran Centelles 20 John Radford 18.5 Sarah Jane Evans MW 18.5

f 10.99 Ellis of Richrnond Established in 1987, this winery belongs to the group which also owns Ramón Bilbao in Rioja. It has seven hectares of vines and its 'mainstream' wines are beguilingly sold in blue glass bottles with a heat-sensitive label: when the wine is chilled to the correct temperature (11°C-130C), a sailing ship appears riding the waves. Algareiro, however, is a new project (2005), and is the second wine of the bodega, selected by winemaker Paula Fandiño after a gentle pressing. The name means 'joy' in Galego (the language of Galicia).

Ferran Centelles: 'The epitome of Albariño and a classy example of the potential of this grape. Revealing the essence of sea-spray minerality, it has a few years of positive development ahead. Very concentrated.'

John,Radford: 'Gentle, subtle underlying green fruit aromas but lovely, rich gooseberry fruit to the fore. Fresh mid palate with warmth and depth, and good fresh fruit on the finish. Delicious.'

Sarah Jane Evans MW: 'Faintest hint of CO, in the glass. Attractively honeyed aromas and a light note of pineapple. Palate is rich and supple, vivid with lemon curd, pineapple and mango, with an undercurrent of freshness running through.'

Drink 2015-2020 Alcohol 12.5%

Pazo Señorans, Selección de Añada 2005 18.75 (95+) FC 19.5 JR 18 SJE 19

£304 40 Berry Bros6 ~udd, Gauntleys, Georges Barbier, Liberty Winer, Little Wine Club, Swig, The Wine Society This is one of a small number of bodegas which makes wine to keep, rather than for early drinking. It's a family business, owned since 1979 by Marisol Bueno and her husband Javier Mareque, though they only started to bottle their wines in 1990. They have some of the oldest vines in the region, and Marisol is a self-taught winemaker, today supervising head winemaker Ana Quintela. Selección de Añada is produced in the best vintages, aged on its lees in the tank, and is a regular DWWA gold-medal winner.

FC 'This wine shows the potential of Albariño. Long, consistent, very well made and bold. Really fresh for a 2005. lnteresting and complex - it has enjoyed a very positive development. Excellent length.'

JR 'Rich fruit and oak aromatics. Fruit pastille concentration. Perfect balance, mature, ripe fruit, long but perhaps a just a touch too much oak.'

SJE 'Abundantly creamy with citrus, orange blossom and vanilla. Succulent, supple palate. Very lively for its age. Clean, citrus backbone, with cream, honey and a grassy surround. Very long.'

Drink 2012-2013 Alc 13%

D E C A N T E R A u g u s t 2 0 1 2 1 79

Ou tstanding (cont inued) 18.5-*opts (95-1~~pts)

Vinum Terrae, You & Me White Ex~erience 2010 Zarate, Balado 2010 18.75 (95+) FC 18.5 JR 19 SJE 18.5 18.75 (95+) FC 18.5 JR 18.5 SJE 19 f 18 lndigo f 14.95 HaywardBros This bodega was founded in 1920 by Ernesto Zárate and was one of the The unusual name is explained by the bodega thus: 'You & Me is that pioneering enthusiasts for Albariño. Today, Ernesto's grandson Eulogio is time-out, enjoyable, misbehave, contemporary experience that arises in charge, farming 8ha of vines, many of them up to 100 years old. Balado when al1 your obligations finish at sundown.' Vinum Terrae, which also has is sourced from two small plots (about 0.5ha) of ungrafted vines: 'Balo' is a bodega in Ribera del Duero, bought 33ha of vines in 2004 in three the local dialect word for 'wall', and the vines are surrounded by granite estates and built a new winery. The winemaker is Francisco Goncalves, walls in the style of a French clos. Production is very small (about half the who is also technical director at Sogevino, the Portuguese wine and Port permitted maximum) and the wine spends six months on its lees. This is group. As its name implies, the wine is designed for everyday enjoyment: another bodega that has maintained a low profile but has been working a real newcomer to the market, it breaks al1 the rules in branding and quietly to bring its wine up to international standard. presentation and was something of a welcome surprise.

FC 'Really good wine for the vintage. Leave time to let it breathe and it will FC 'Very interesting wine at this moment in its life. Hints of good evolution. give a lot of pleasure. It has concentration, refreshing apple acidity and a Peaches, flowers and a hint of tar. Very consistent fruit and enough complex mouthfeel. Class and finesse with an expressive, stony finish.' freshness to handle the potential fruit development. Long, elegant finish.'

JR 'Warm, woody, bonfire aromas. Lovely rich fruit on the front- and JR 'Old-vine aromas and a hint of castor oil. Rich, clean fruit. Mature, with a mid-palates, and a tasty, barbecue finish. Superb.' long, complex finish.'

SJE 'Orange blossom, wood smoke and vanilla - very aromatic. Vivid, SJE 'Bold, creamy, leesy aromas; grassy with lemon peel notes. Sumptuous, lively freshness; very youthful. Typical Albariño fruit profile, including juicy palate: ripe, off-dry impression, with white peaches and apricots, white peaches and lime zest. Long, intense, creamy, fresh finish.' lemon juice, candied pineapple, and a penetrating, sherbet lemon acidity.'

Drink 2013-2017 Alc 13% Drink 2012-2015 Alc 13.5%

Bodegas Castro Martin, Famlly Estate Selection 2010 18.5 (95) FC 18 JR 19 SJE 18.5

f 14.1 6 Bibendum This bodega was founded in 1981 by the Martin family, who had been making wine for generations. The wines were formerly handled in the UK by importer Andrew McCarthy, and when the owner, Angela Martin, was widowed, he stepped in to help her out. Over time a relationship developed, and they eventualJy married. Today, Martin is the winemaker and McCarthy looks after marketing and sales. Tasting through the various tanks, each from a different plot, they felt that there was an opportunity to create a flagship wine under the family name from llha of family-owned vineyards.

FC 'Restrained example of Albariño, with green, refreshing acidity and a long, stony finish. Well made and full of green peaches, green apple and white flowers. Very food friendly wine that can be aged up to three years.'

JR 'Summer, hedgerow aromas with hints of honeysuckle. Lovely, rich, crunchy fruit with a delicious mid-palate and a long, golden finish; just a little bit dry on the finish.'

SJE 'Leafy, grassy aromatics with white peach fruit. Vibrant acidity, with lime curd and lemon zest flavours. Supple, creamy palate, with white peaches and ginger. Long and complex.'

Drink 2012-2015 Alc 12.5%

La Val, Orballo 2011 18.5 (95) FC 18.5 JR 18 SJE 19

f 9.99-£11.95 D Byrne, Hennings, Highbury Vintners, John Hattersley, Swig, WoodWinters d Established in 1985, Bodegas La Val was a founding member of the DO and today it's one of the larger producers in the region, with a smart, modern bodega and a capacity of a million litres. In 2010 a management buyout saw the manager, Fernando Bandeira, along with finance partners, take over the business. There are 60ha of vines, and Orballo is made from selected grapes, fermented with natural yeast and matured on the lees. The winemaker is José-María Ureta, who started his career with the Faustino group, joining La Val in 2000, where he is now technical director.

FC 'Very refreshing and intense palate, full of citrus notes. Quite reductive style with smoky notes. Elegantly perfumed with extra layers of complexity. Very food friendly; very Albaritío.'

JR 'Lovely, mature-vine fruit and wood oil aromas. Subtle, mysterious and delicious. Rich citrus notes and crunchy fruit on the front- and mid-palate, but slightly fails to deliver on the finish. Good.'

SJE 'Smoky, grassy, intense with notes of stewed gooseberries - the slightest spritz adds to the fresh impression. Acidity is marked, with a sherbet tang, but balanced by ripeness of the underlying fruit. Long.'

Drink 2013-2016 Alc 12.5%

8 0 1 A u g u s t 2 0 1 2 D E C A N T E R

Rías Baixas Albariño

Outstanding (continued) 18.5-20pts(95-100pts)

Paz0 Pondal, Leira 2011 18.5 (95) FC 18.5 JR 18.5 SJE 18.5

f 12.99 Darcy Wines, General Wine Co, Pimlico Cellars, Thomas Panton This is a family bodega, founded in 1998, with 12ha of vines, al1 Albariño. Although the winery is smart and modern, the harvesting and selection of the grapes is still done by hand in the traditional way. The grapes for Leira are selected from the oldest plots, and the wine rests on its lees for at least three months before Basque winemaker Ana Martin decides it's ready for bottling. Martín has worked ata number of northern wineries including Guitián in Valdeorras and ltsas Mendi in Txakoli, and as well as consultancy work she's on the tasting panel of the Bikaiko Txakoli Consejo Regulador.

FC 'Slightly reductive but with some air i t gives more open aromas of green fruits and stones. Don't worry about its more restrained character now as it will gain in complexity with bottle age.'

JR 'Warm. ripe, mature, elegant nose. Fabulous greengages on the mid-palate and while it fades a bit on the finish, it's otherwise excellent.'

SJE 'Typical Albariño nose, with a fine combination of leesy creaminess, white peaches and lime zest. Fresh palate that is balanced and restrained between fresh acidity, mineral clarity and orange and lemon notes.'

Drink 2012-2016 Alc 12.5%

Vilarvin, Valtea, Finca Garabato, Cepas Vellas 2009 18.5 (95) FC 17.5 JR 19 SJE 19

f 20 C&D Wines Founded in 1997 by the current owners, Lázaro Moreno and winemaker Carla González, the bodega has 13ha of vineyards. González's family wine heritage goes back to the Douro and she harbours ambitions to work there at some stage in the future. Finca Garabato is a single vineyard wine, with fruit from vines more than 25 y.ears old. The wine is kept in the vat, on its lees, with constant battonage, for six months.

FC 'This is an evolving wine but it still keeps its freshness and length. Very interesting and complex with a mature palate which boasts a refreshing combination of creaminess and acidity.'

JR '~ovely, rich, ripe, slightly gamey but very complex nose. Rich green plum fruit beautifully balanced with fresh acidity. Drinking splendidly now.'

SJE 'Bold, forward, creamy, vanilla and peach aroma. Brilliantly vibrant acidity - ripe but piercíng - which carries through to a long, penetrating finish. Notes of oranges, vanilla and yellow peaches. Full bodied and fresh.'

Drink 2012-2014 Alc 12.5%

H ig h l y Recom mended 17-18.25~~~ ( 9 0 - 9 4 ~ ~ ~ )

Bodegas Castro Martin, Sobre Lias A20 2010 Decanter average score 18.25pts/20 (94pts/100) FC 18 J k 18.5 SJE 18

£13.28 Bibendum Smoky, earthy, leafy with bonfire aromas. Richer, ripe style with an off-dry impression; yellow peaches, golden plums and exotic fruit, with lime acidity underpinning. Finish is long and ripe, with plenty of finesse and expression. Superb. Drink 2012-2015 Alc 12.5%

Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes 2011 18.25 (94) FC 19 JR 17 SJE 18.5

f 14.9546 Waitrose, The Wine Society, Winetraders Very fresh and classy. Aromatic white flowers, green fruit and pineapple. Lemon curd, zesty charm, rich supple palate, balanced by gentle grip and fine mineral notes with a salty hint. Long, fresh finish. Drink 2012-2017 Alc 12.5%

Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes, III Año 2009 18.25 (94) FC 18.5 JR 19 SJE 17

£15 Winetraders Despite slightly reductive aromas, the mouthfeel reveals this wine to be delicious. Rich with an off-dry impression and fruit in the manner of melons, peaches, lemon peel and a grapefruit tang. Long, ripe, almost caramel finish. Still young. Drink 2012-2019 Alc 12.5%

Eidosela, 2011 18.25 (94) FC 18.5 JR 18.5 SJE 18

£11.95 swig I Perfect example for people who are looking for minerality in their wines. Classic Albariño aromas with lime, lemon zest, vanilla and gooseberries. Concentrated and full of citrus flavour, youthful and zesty, with a long, stony finsh. Drink 2012-2016 Alc 13%

Eidosela, Etra 2011 18.25 (94) FC 18.5 JR 19 SJE 17.5

£9.99 lbi ion ~ i n e ~hippers Typical and well made with a fresh, grassy hint, plus basil and lemon curd on the nose. Wonderful palate of stone and green fruits. Needs time to soften and integrate, but has a lovely, grapey finish; a very food-friendly example. Drink 2012-2015 Alc 13%

Gran Vinum, 2010 18.25 (94) FC 17 JR 19 SJE 18.5

£1 5 Taste of Galicia Summery with notes of lemon curd, nettles, lime zest and a creamy leesiness. Delicious green fruit and lemon palate which is fresh, structured, complex and mineral. ~ e r y typical in character. Ready to be enjoyed now but will also develop nicely. Drink 2012-2016 Alc 13%

D E C A N T E R A u g u s t 2 0 1 2 1 81

Decanter PANEL TASTING

Highly Recommended (continued) 17-18.25pts(90-94pts)

Lagar de Costa 2011 18.25 (94) FC 18 JR 19 SJE 18

£11.50-f 14.50 Astrum,The WineSociety

Green fruit and nectarine aroma which is also subtly smoky with a pungent grassiness. Makes a powerful impression in the mouth with its crunchy fruit. Full flavoured, modern and expressive with a lingering finish and a mineral, salty note. Drink 2013-2018 Alc 12.5%

Maior de Mendoza 2010 18.25 (94) FC 18.5 JR 19 SJE 17

£11 Moreno Wines

Delicously creamy, leesy nose, with citrus, stone fruit and grassy hints. Concentrated, complex palate showing apples, cinnamon, sweet spices, apricot and a mouthwatering lemon freshness. Rich, long with an almost honeyed finish. Superb. Drink 2012-2015 Alc 13%

Nora, Nora da Neve 2009 18.25 (94) FC 18 JR 19 SJE 18

f 25 C&D wines

Lovely, rich golden fruit on the nose with lemon curd, grass and perhaps a hint of botrytis. Vivid acidity on the lively, bright attack. Has power, richness, with subtle oak and a crisp, dry finish. Long and balanced. Drink 2012-2015 Alc 13%

Terras Gauda, Abadia de San Campio 2011 18.25 (94) FC 18.5 JR 19 SJE 17

f 12.95 Les Caves de Pyrene

Extremely enjoyable. Peachy and vibrant. Very young, with a lime curd zestiness and lovely wood oil aromas. An expressive palate with dancing freshness, plenty of energy and spicy green fruit. Classic. Drink 2013-2018 Alc 12.5%

Adega Eidos, Contraaparede 2008 18 (93) FC18.5 JR 18 SJE 17.5

£19.95 Lea & Sandeman

Consistent fruit despite its vintage. Expressive and long, it is an outstanding example of the potential of this grape variety. Fresh palate, though the fruit shows signs of maturity. Richly textured, with savoury, mineral back notes. Very long. Drink 2012-2013 Alc 13%

Terra de Asorei, Nai e Señora 2011 18.25 (94) FC 18 JR 18.5 SJE 18.5

£11 Boutique Wine Co 0 Mineral style and alluringly fresh with leafy, grassy, floral aromas lifted by lemon zest. Very bold attack, with the punch of sherbet lemons, rounded out with a creamy, peachy coating. Finish is clean, mineral and bone dry. Delicious. Drink 2013-2018 Alc 12.5%

Mar de Frades 2011 18 (93) FC 18 JR 19 SJE 17

f 12.99 SomrneiierJs Choice

Concentrated and long, combining vigorous, ripe fruit with body. Supple and juicy, displaying green apple, pear, tangy acidity and delightful freshness. Lively, very youthful, modern and full of character. This is long, warm, ripe and delicious. Drink 2012-2015 Alc 12.5%

Leiras 2011 18 (93) FC 17.5 JR 18 SJE 18.5

£10.99 Aughton Wines, Campbell Moore, Cheshire

Smokehouse, Den Boer, Hoults, Lewis & Cooper,

Magnum, Rodney Densem, Taylors Fine Wine, Thind

Wine, Wildflower Wines, Wine Buffs, The Wine Shop 1

Perfumed green fruit, cherries and citrus zest. Great depth of flavour with citrus, creamy and crunchy fruits. Lip-smacking acidity with a long, bold finish and a kick of spice right at the end. Big, modern style. Drink 2012-2015 Alc 12.5%

Coto Redondo, Liñar de Vides 2011 18 (93) FC 18 JR 18.5 SJE 17.5

£11.95 Merchant Vintners ()

Very easy to drink and enjoy but still it has its character. lnitial impression is rich and full bodied with grapefruit and white peaches, then the richness falls away to a precise, mineral, almost salty finish; a lovely wine. Drink 2013-2018 Alc 12.5%

Paco & Lola 2011 18 (93) FC 17 JR 18 SJE 19

£15 Winestudio

Peachy and stony, with warmth, ripeness and lovely, savoury greengage fruit on the mid- palate which has a pristine feel. Final taste is of roasted lemons and herbs, with a stony, almost salty mineral note. Drink 2012-2014 Alc 12.5%

Rectoral do Urna, Pórtico da Ría 2011 18 (93) FC 18 JR 19 SJE 17

£9.99 Myliko (

Nose of cinnamon, citrus, green apples and a hint of wax. Supple, juicy and rich palate, with passion fruit, pineapple and crystallised lemons. Finish remains rich with a slightly toasty impression. Drink 2013-2016 Alc 12%

Adega Eidos, Eidos de Padriñán 2011 17.75 (92) FC 17 JR 19 SJE 17

f 13.95 Lea & Sandeman Very aromatic, with red apples, jasmine, peach and orange blossom. Lovely crunchy greengage fruit on the front and mid-palate; ripe, warm with citrus and pineapple notes, and a long, stony, earthy finish. Drink 2013-2017 Alc 12.5%

8 2 1 A u g u s t 2 0 1 2 D E C A N T E R

H ig hly Recommended (cont inued) 1 7 - I ~ . X P ~ S ( 9 ~ - 9 ~ 9

Agro de Bazán, Don Alvaro de Bazán 2010 17.75 (92) FC 16.5 JR 19 SJE 18

f 20.45 Amathus Drinks Lifted lemon aromas, creamy with notes of nettles and herbs. Soft palate full of nectarine, grapefruit, apricot and a suggestion of ginger. Lovely balance, delicious and long with a bright prickle of acidity. Should develop well as it matures. Drink 2012-2016 Alc 13.5%

Condes de Albarei 2011 17.75 (92) FC 18.5 JR 16 SJE 18.5

f 10 Eliis of Richmond Outstanding personality and character. Honeyed nose with yellow peachesand citrus. Bright, lively, generous palate with juicy oranges, lime, grapefruit and a bitter tang of kumquats. Vivid, refreshing and complex, with a clean, mineral finish. Drink 2013-2018 Alc 12%

La Val, Finca de Arantei 2011 17.75 (92) FC17.5 JR 18.5 SJE 17.5

f 11 -49-f 12.95 Aii About Wine, D Byrne, Reserve Wines, Swig Extremely enjoyable. Big, spicy fruit and a savoury mid-palate. Powerful, linear structure with punchy acidity. Long and very intense, it is young at the moment but has excellent potential. Drink 2012-2015 Alc 12.5%

Viña Almirante, Pionero Maccerato 2011 17.75 (92) FC 18 JR 18 SJE 17

N/A UK www.vinaaimirante.com Lovely, soft honeysuckle scents bolstered by notes of herbs, grapefruit and citrus. The silky palate is driven by green fruit. with touches of lemon curd; has a long finish with a grassy lift. Complex and structured, this needs time to truly shine. Drink 2013-2016 Alc 12.5%

Castro Baroña 2011 17.5 (91) FC 18.5 JR 16 SJE 18

f 10.45 From Vineyards Direct A youngster. Lively pineapple nose with creamy undertones. Palate is just as youthful - lively, generously zesty, with lemon freshness and gently exotic passion fruit. This will easily keep for three to four years, gaining more complexity. Drink 2013-2017 Alc 12%

Maior de Mendoza, Fulget 2011 17.5 (91) FC 17 JR 17 SJE 18.5

£9.95 Moreno Wines Vibrant aromatics of green apple. ripe pear, banana, citrus and greengage. lnitial attack is equally vibrant: taut, tense freshness, develops to supple passion fruit, grapefruit zest and a punchy, fresh finish. Needs a bit more bottle age but good potential. Drink 2012-2015 Alc 12%

ViAa Almirante, Vanidade 2011 17.5 (91) FC 17 JR 18 SJE 17.5

N/A UK www.vinaaimirante.com Riper style with lots of stonefruit, green fruit and a salty note. Summer garden aromas are followed by melon. mango and peach fruit on the palate; the acidity enlivens the fruit but does not overwhelm it. Full of flavour and bursting with character. Drink 2012-2015 Alc 12.5%

Adega Valdés, Xiradelia 2011 17.25 (90+) FC 18 JR 18 SJE 16

£13 Oakbridge Wines Concentrated style, this is serious and deserves time to breathe in the glass. Subtle creamy citrus and jasmine perfume. Lovely balance with fresh, crisp, green plum fruit as well as extra layers of complexity, and clear fruit on the finish. Drink 2012-2015 Alc 12.5%

Bouza do Rei, Lagar de Bouza 2011 17.25 (90+) FC 17 JR 19 SJE 16

f 11 -99 Cambridge Wine Merchants, Henderson Wines, Oxford Wine Co Flowery and ripe in style. Big, rich fruit with hints of peach, melon, vanilla, lemon and cream. Clearly defined acidity - bright with an abundance of fruit on the finish, complemented by grassy notes. Drink 2012-2015 Alc 12.5%

Lagar de Costa, MaioS 2010 17.25 (90+) FC 18 JR 17 SJE 17

£24 Astrum, The Wine Society Creamy, leesy aromas with lemon zest, nettles and orange blossom. Youthful and vivid with citrus fruit and fresh herbs in abundance and an interesting stony note coming through. Long and rich finish. Drink 2012-2015Alc 13.5%

Pazos de Lusco, Pazo Piñeiro 2010 Quinta de Couselo, Turonia 2011 17.25 (90+) FC17 JR 18.5 SJE16.5 17.25 (90+) FC 17.5 JR 17 SJE 17

£37 Raymond Reynolds £15 Boutique Wine Co Really creamy style with honeyed and almost A very good expression of Albariiío. Delicious balsamic aromas. Has enough freshness to fruit on the attack, then a bit austere on the handle the oak. Good structure and fine mid-palate, but overall this is a bold, ripe style complexity. Palate is broad and creamy with showing good balance between the peach fruit lemon zest and darts of citrus acidity. Finishes and citrus acidity. Drink 2012-2015 Alc 13% with a mineral tang. Drink 2013-2017 Alc 13.5% w

D E C A N T E R A u g u s t 2 0 1 2 1 8 3

SPANISH ALBARINO RECOMMENDED WINES

Zarate www.2arate.e~ lmporter in UK: Ellis o f Richmond UK Importer: lndigo Wine Ltd T: 020 8744 5550 F: 020 8744 5561

E: info@ellis-wines.co.uk - - -

www.youandmewine.com Mar de Frades Contact: David Martinez www.mardefrades.es E: david.martinez@vinumterrae.com

Contact: jose V. Cantó

E: gerencia@bodegaslaval.com / josecanto@terranostravinos.com www. bodegaslaval.com UK distributor: Boutinot Ltd.

Pazo ae Señorans UK distributor: Rhone 2 Rioja 37 Montholme Road SWl l 6 HX London Contact Name: Paul Shinnie Tel: +44 20 7924 4974

WHlTE EXPERl ENCE

H ig hly Recommended 17-18.25pt~ ( 9 0 - 9 4 ~ ~ ~ )

~p

Zarate, El Palomar 2010 17.25 @o+) Agro de Bazan, Etiqueta Ambar FC 17 JR 18.5 SJE 16.5 2010 17 (90) FC16.5 JR 19 SJE 15.5

f 18 lndigo £17 Amathus Drinks

Davide 2011 17 (90) FC 17.5 JR 16 SJE 17.5

N/A U K www.davide.es

Very true of a fresh vintage like 2011. Crisp and Floral, citrus and vanilla oak aromas. Punchy Creamy and peachy style. Soft, exotic entry with expressive with a lively blend of white peaches acidity underneath a broad mineral palate; style spicy, warm. ripe fruit on thefront palate before and leesy creaminess. Palate starts well with majors on texture rather than fruit but isa good mellowing out where thegreen plums turn to precise, tight acidity, but iscurrently dominating mix of lees character and refreshing acidity. apricots. Bright acidity at the outset, overlaid by thefruit. Too young now but will have a positive Long. peachy and complex with a balanced, rich lemon and lime marmalade, with a tangy lift of evolution. Drink 2012-2016 Alc12.5% fruit finish. Drink 2012-2016 Alc 13.5% bitterness. Drink 2012-2015 Alc 13.5%

Gran Vinum, Esencia DiviAa 2011 Pablo Padin, Segrel201117 (90) Pazo SeAorans 2011 17 (90) 17 (90) FC17 JR16 SJE 18 FC 18 JR 17 SJE 16 FC 18.5 JR 15 SJE 17.5

f 12 Taste of Galicia POA Dionlka

Flinty nose with touchesof wood oil, rosemary Hints of melon, peach, lime, apple, vanilla and and basil. The very concentrated palate profile is cinnamon on the nose. Very good structureand fresh with green apples, lime zest and some acid balance. Dense and supple, with lemon pineapple richness in the background. Another conserve and crystallised lemon peel flavours, young wine only just beginning to emerge. complemented by a stony, mineral finish. This Drink 2012-2015 Alc 12.5% has great potential but needs more time in

bottle. Drink 2013-2016 Alc 12%

£12.50-f 15.75 Berry Bros&Rudd, DByrne,

Field & Fawcett, Gauntleys, Georges Barbier, Liberty Wlnes, Little Wine Club, Philglas& Swiggot, Virgin

Wines, The Wine Society

Exceptional aperitif wine, full of freshness and lively acidity. Elegant, smoky aromatics with citrus fruit underneath. Lively, lemon fruit palate reined in by the oak, giving a balanced, complex, textured wine. Drink 2013-2016 Alc 12%

Recommended 15-16.75~t~ (83-8gpts) Wine Scon FC JR SJE Tastlngnote Alc Ddnk fflce Stocklsts

Adega Valdes, Gundian 2011

Serrada Estrela 2010 " and supple ripe fruit which softens theacidity, stony minerahty to finish.

Sln Palabras 2010 an undercurrent of citrus. Restrained, with ripe stone fruit and fresh acidity. 2015

Flllaboa. Seleccl6n Finca Monte m.. 15 16 Savoury white and green fruit augmented by creamy, grassy aromas Focused 12i% 2012- £19.10 Jemhau .Wons

Alto 2009 and intense palate with a tight mineral finish. Lacks a Iittle fruit concentration 2013

Rectoral do Urna, MiudiRo 2011

>

D E C A N T E R A u g u s t 2 0 1 2 1 8 5

Decanter PANEL TASTING

Recommended 15-16.75~ts (83-8gpts) Wlne Score FC JR SJE Tastlngnote Ale Drink Prlce Stocklsts

Santiago Roma 2011 16.25 15 17 17 Low intensity of aromas but some delicate, smoky, citrus and pineapple notes. 12% 2012- £11.99 ThomasPeatllng (87) . Succulent palate with ripe, glossy grapefruit and peach. Tight stony ending. 2015 ' . a

Terra de Asorei 2010 16.25 16 ' ' 15 17.3 Smoke, fennel, cut grass and lemon. Succulently fruity, full of citrus notes, 13.5 : . 2012- £9.98- Gerrard Seel, Heritage Wine (87) . with fresh acidity, minerality and a brisk, lingering finish. . 2015 £11.75 -

Vilarvin, Valtea 2010 16.25 15 ' 18 16 Warm, ripe with a hint of caramel and bright fruit. Rich, spicy palate of ginger, M%. . 2012- 'E12 CclDwines (87)

a,. , cinnamon, lemon marmalade, bitter oranges, and a delicate, chalky finish. - 2015

Vinum Terrae, Terra Firme 2010 16.25 14.5 17 17.5 Wood oil and old-vine fruit. Rich, supple palate with fine minerals. The 13.5% 2012- 84.95 ward Bros (87) A flavours are complex, from smoky minerality to lemon peel and fresh herbs. . 2014

Fillaboa 2010 16 16.5 % 16 15.5 Unctuous texture and refreshing acidity. Smoky, oaky, rhubarb-and-custard 13%# ' - 2012- f12,50 Amps, Flagship Wines,GeneraI Wlne

(86) nose. Full, ripe palate; bold, oily and long with waxy lemons and angelica. , ,

Company, Marks & Spencer, Ox House Wlne 2015 -- Company, Whaiiey Wine Shop

Nora 2011 16 15 18 15 Peach, jasmine and red applearomas, with grapefruit notes. Refreshing palate 1h6 2012- f12 c&Dwines (86) . wíth salty sensations and a lot of citrus on the finish; a food-friendly wine. " 2013 '

Pablo Padin, Segrel Ambar 2011 1 6 6 17 . 16 15 Honeyed aromas, with notes of smoke, citrus, gran. Full, broad palate of 125% 2012- £14.99 Bonvhant, ~abriel's~ine, ~arket ~uarter,

(8 , I Outwood Butchen, Vin Bin, Vineklng cooked yellow plums and Bramley apples. Salty, mineral finish. . 2015

Santiago Roma, Selección 2010 15.75 T4.5 16 17' Gamey nose of wood smoke and peach. Rich, juicy palate, off-dry impression '12,596 2012- ~15.99. Thomas Peatllng . , with apricots, candied pineapple and a spritz of lime zest and grapefruit. 2015

Pazo San Mauro 2011 15.5 16 16 14.3 Herbs and lime zest aromas. Honeyed palate of citrus, m e a e a , a a 12.5%- 2012- 8 3 ;~~;;;~:bleVIaUKagentBurridgesof

(85) . - rich attack bolstered by crisp acidity. Tight, stony finish which fades away. 2014 '

Martin Codax, Burgans 2011 14.5 Subtle, almost closed nose. Hints of crisp, green fruit and herbal aromas. :12;57' 2012- £10 Oddblns :8;;;5 kl7 : , Smoky and slightly reduced. trunchy palate lacks warmthand ir a bit taut. : 2015 . - ."h Pazo Barrantes 2011 15.25 145 17 14.5 Peach conserve and candied lemon noses. Palate is rich and full of baked y% ' 2012- M8 " Handfmf Wines, Planet of the Grapes,

2014 Fortnum & Mason, Selfridges, Philglas &

(84) , . , apples, cream, sweet spice, which fades to a lightly chalky finish. swiggot

Bouza do Rei, Castel de Bouza 2011

-?13-14.75pts (76-82pts) 4 Attis, Xión 2011 14.5 (81) 4 Paco 81 Lola, Lolo 2011 14.5 (81) 4 Martin Codax 2011 13.25 (77) 4 Adegas Valmiííor 2011 13 (76)

For full UK stockist details, see p90

Adega Eidos, Contraaparede 2008 An easy mathematical formula: 70-year-old vines + granitic soils + 20 hectolitres per hectare + three years in stainless steel tanks (like it was made in ancient times) +

winemaking experience + wine sensibility 2,000 bottles of great, truly emotive wine. 18.5/20 (95/100) Drink 2012-2017

Pazo Sefiorans, Selección de Añada 2005 Most people who work in the Spanish wine trade agree this wine is one of Spain's best whites. The 2005 is a world-class win'e and a bold style made by Marisol Bueno. One of the top sellers at elBulli restaurant and a wine that I've a special affection for. I think it will keep a very long time - I was recently amazed by a bottle from 1999.19.5 (98) Drink 2012-2018

Terras Gauda, Abadia de San Campio 2011 Terras Gauda comes from a lesser-known sub-region called O Rosal (which comprises 15% of Rías Baixas). I love this wine because it's really good value and a guaranteed success when served with food. This salty, firm, electrifying Albariño consistently achieves amazing. quality every vintage. 18.5 (95) Drink 2013-2018

86 1 A u g u s t 2 0 1 2 D E C A N T E R

Next month's panel tastings Crozes-Hermitage red 2010 & latest-release Soave

Nora da Neve 2009 This is an example of how bottle age can really improve Albariño: rich, golden fruit on the nose, wonderful fruit power on the palate, and yet still crisp, dry and fresh on the finish. Winemaker, Josephine Perry, is Australian. 19/20 (96/100) Drink 2012-2015

Bodegas del Palacio de Feflfianes, III Afio 2009 This is an old-established firm in an old palace, and on my last visit they showed wines dating back to the 1950s. This 2009 has soft, warm, smoky fruit on the nose with lovely crisp, green fruit, melons and peaches and an almost caramel finish. The winemaker is Cristina Mantilla. 19 (96) Drink 2012-2019

Bouza do Rei, Lagar de Bouza 2011 This is one of the founding bodegas of the Rías Baixas DO in 1988, although it has been making wine since 1984. This 2011 has a soft, maturing nose with wood-oil notes and a big, rich palate with hints of peach and melon, good balance and a lovely fruit-bowl finish. The winemaker is Olivia

Bodegas del Palacio de Feflfianes 2011 My favourite from this winery is the always the youngest vintage of this pristine style - a vibrant youth at odds with the long tradition of the producer. Aromatic, with jasmine and exotic fruits, followed by rich lemon curd-like acidity, and a big, supple palate. Ends with a stony, salty freshness. 18.5/20 (95/100) Drink 2012-2013

Paco & Lola 2011 A new-wave style with so much more to it than just pretty packaging. This is Albariño for those who like their wines punchy and fresh. The brisk citrus and gooseberry tang is rounded off by a lick of creaminess anda hint of salt. Very long. 19 (96) Drink 2012-2013

Pazo de Sefiorans, Seleccldn de Afiada 2005 A truly remarkable wine that speaks very definitely of its origins. Approaching seven years of age, hiding its two-plus years in oak really well, it's still full of life and flavour. A sumptuous blend of citrus, orange blossom and creamy vanilla, with a silky, supple palate. Very long, fresh

NB: the tasters' top wines are not necessarily their top scoring, rather those which, on learning the wines' identity, they feel are the most notable given their provenance, price or other factors

Rías Baixas Albari3

Reacting to the results John Radford An excellent result from an invigorated Rias Baixas region, whose wines, whether young and fresh or with some maturity, have staked their claim as Spain's top whites

John Radford is a freelance writer, author, broadcaster, lecturer and speaker and the Decanter World Wine Awards Regional co-Chair for S ~ a i n

THlS WAS BOTH an encouraging and even slightly amusing tasting, given that many producers in the region almost had to be blackmailed into grubbing up high-producing varieties in favour of AlbariAo when the DE (Denominación Específica) was introduced in 1980. Some bodegas had already spotted that this was the way forward, and they are those which, today, have vines anything up to 100 years old. When other producers saw the prices commanded by Albariño wines, they soon started to comply, and the full DO (now DOP) was awarded in 1988.

Since then, Rias Baixas has grown exponentially, with the original 14 bodegas now numbering more than 180, and Albariño dominating the vineyards as never before. The results of the tasting speak for themselves: eight Outstanding wines, the highest number of any panel tasting I've attended, and 36 Highly Recommendeds. Add to this the fact that many of the wines retail in the UK at less than £10, and most of the rest at under £15, and you have a category which offers excellent value for money.

Winemakers have generally managed to crack the code of the variety: pergola training, poor soils on a granite bedrock shot through with quartz, and that holy trinity of quality wine: old vines, low yields and inspired winemaking. Quality and innovation have never been higher, especially

in ageing the wine for a year or two before putting it on the market. But old habits in Galicia's seafood restaurants die hard: Andrew McCarthy of Bodegas Castro-Martin took the plunge with his Family Estate Selection: 'We do not release any new vintage wine before April at the earliest, a policy that sometimes puts us in conflict with our own domestic market, which demands young Albariño.'

Indeed, it's no surprise that five of the eight Outstanding wines went to bottles from older vintages: winemaking has matured in Rías Baixas and they're making wines with enough acidity to keep, which can make some a little sharp when young. This is al1 to the good: young, fresh Albariño is available in local restaurants for those who want it, and older styles are starting to make themselves known; witness the splendid Pazo de Señorans 2005. In the competition between these wines and Rueda's Verdejo to be recognised as the classic white wine of Spain, on this showing, Rias Baixas Albariño is the front-runner.

'Many of the wines retail in the UK at Zess than £ 1 0, and most of the rest at under £ 1 5'

Serious about collecting wine? Cannot get your Burgundy allocations? How about Domaine Ponsot - Clos de la Roche \N 2005, which scored a superb 98 points from a spread of reviewers. In that vintage only DRC Romanée Conti scored higher - 99 points & twelve times the price!

Vinalytics will give you the W¡n a case 0f 2eme C I ~ S S ~ answers to questions like this Chateau Montrose! and more. It is packed full of online tools to help you track and add value to your cellar. Simply visit our website and take You can also connect to part in the online quiz. There is merchants to buy and sell no cost for entry. your wines.

We hope you will visit us soon. W W W . V ¡ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ C S . C O ~ intelligent wine collecting ;+