Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance

8/20/2019 Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance

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Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th edition

Text copyright © 2010 by Lennard Zinn

Illustrations copyright © 2010 by VeloPress

All rights reserved. Printed in the United States of America.

No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by

any means, electronic or photocopy or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher

except in the case of brief quotations within critical articles and reviews.

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ISBN: 978-1-934030-59-2

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This book is printed on 100 percent recovered/recycled fiber, 30 percent postconsumer waste,

elemental chlorine free, using soy-based inks.

Cover and interior design by Erin Johnson

Composition by Erin Johnson and Jessica Xavier

Cover photo by Brad Kaminski; bike built by Lennard Zinn

Custom paint job on cover bike by Spectrum Powder Works, Colorado Springs, CO

Title font Sign Production JNL; body text Caecilia Roman

10 11 12 / 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1


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A Tip of the Helmet to . . . ix

Introduction xiii

Chapters

1 Tools 1

2 Basic Stuff: Preride inspection, wheel removal,and general cleaning 15

3 Emergency Repairs: How to get home whensomething big breaks or you get lost or hurt 33

4 Chains 51 5 Transmission: Front and rear derailleurs, cables,

and shifters 71

6 Wheels: Tires, rims and spokes, hubs, cassettes,and freewheels 111

7 Brakes: Cables, levers, and calipers 147

8 Cranksets 195

9 Pedals 225

10 Saddles and Seatposts 243

11 Handlebars, Stems, and Headsets 257

12 Wheelbuilding 291

13 Forks 311

14 Frames 347

Appendixes

A Troubleshooting Index 371

B Gear Development 377

C Mountain Bike Fitting 383

D Torque Table 393

Glossary 409

Bibliography 421

Index 423

Illustration Index 433

About the Author and Illustrator 437

C O N T E N T S

mple from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed.yright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved


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I N T R O D U C T I O N

Peace of mind isn’t at all supercial, really. It’s the

whole thing. That which produces it is good mainte-

nance; that which disturbs it is poor maintenance.

What we call workability of the machine is just an

objectication of this peace of mind. The ultimate

test’s always your own serenity. If you don’t have this

when you start and maintain it while you’re working,

you’re likely to build your personal problems right into

the machine itself.

—Robert M. Pirsig,

Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

ABOUT THIS BOOK

This book is intended for people who have an

interest in maintaining their own mountain

bikes. I have written it for mountain bike owners

who do not think they’re capable of maintain-

ing their own bikes, as well as for those who do

and who want the how-to details at their finger-

tips. In Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance,

Robert Pirsig explores the dichotomy between

the purely classical and purely romantic views

of the world, a dichotomy that also applies to

mountain biking. Riding a mountain bike is

generally a romantic experience of emotion,

inspiration, and intuition, even when solving the

complex physics of how to negotiate a technical

section of trail without putting your foot down.

Mountain bike mechanics, however, is a purely

classical structure of underlying form dominated

by reason and physical laws. The two practices—

bike riding and bike maintenance—fit eloquently

together. Each is designed to function in a par-

ticular way, and to have one without the other

would be missing out on half the fun.

The romantic can appreciate how success at

bike mechanics requires that the procedures be

done with love, without which the care you imag-

ined putting into your mountain bike would be

lost. And even the pure romantic can follow the

simple step-by-step procedures and “exploded”

diagrams in this book (of which Fig. I.1 is an

extreme example and is the only one not intended

to be simple and clear!) and discover a passion for

spreading new grease on old parts.

Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance is

organized in such a way that you can pick main-

tenance tasks appropriate for you. The repairs in

these pages require no special skills to perform;

anyone can do them. It takes only a willingness

to learn.

Mountain bikes are admirably resilient mach-

ines. You can keep one running a long time just

by changing the tires and occasionally lubricating xiii



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ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE

xiv

the chain. Chapter 2 is about the most minimal

maintenance your bike requires. Even if that is

the only part of this book you end up using, you’ll

have gotten your money’s worth by avoiding some

unpleasant experiences out on the trail.

This book was originally intended for homeenthusiasts, not shop mechanics. For that reason,

I have not included the long and precise lists of

parts specifications that a shop mechanic might

need. Nonetheless, when combined with a speci-

fication manual, this book can be a useful, easy-

to-follow reference for shop mechanics, too.

WHY DO IT YOURSELF?

There are a number of reasons why you would

want to maintain your own mountain bike.

Obviously, if done right, it is a lot cheaper to do

yourself than to pay someone else to do it. This is

certainly an important factor for those riders who

live to ride and have no visible means of support.

Self-maintenance is a necessity for that crew.

As your income goes up and the time available

to maintain your bike goes down, this becomes

less and less true. If you’re a well-paid profes-

sional with limited free time, it probably does

not make as much economic sense to maintain

your own bike. Yet you may find that you enjoy

working on your bike for reasons other than

just saving money. Unless you have a mechanic

whom you trust and to whom you take your bike

regularly, you are not likely to find anyone else

who cares as much about your bicycle’s smooth

operation and cleanliness as you do. You may also

need your bike fixed faster than a local shop can

do during its busy season. And you need to be

able to fix mechanical breakdowns that occur on

the trail.

It is a given: Breakdowns will happen, even

if you have the world’s best mechanic working

on your bike. For this reason, it takes away from

my enjoyment of a ride if I have something on

my bike that I do not understand well enough to

know whether it is likely to last the ride or how to

fix it if it does not.

There is an aspect of bicycle mechanics

that can be extremely enjoyable in and of itself,

almost independent of riding the bike. Bicyclesare the epitome of elegant simplicity. Bicycle

parts, particularly high-end components, are

meant to work well and last a long time. With the

proper attention, they can shine both in appear-

ance and in performance for years to come.

There is real satisfaction in dismantling a filthy

part that is not functioning well, cleaning it up,

lubricating it with fresh grease, and reassembling

it so that it works like new again. Knowing that

I made those parts work so smoothly—and that I

can do it again when they get dirty or worn—is

rewarding. I am eager to ride hard to see how

they hold up rather than being reluctant to ride

for fear of breaking something.

Also, if you share my stubborn unwillingness

to throw something out and buy a replacement

simply because it has quit working—be it a leaky

Waterpik; a torn tent; a duffle bag with a broken

zipper; or an old car, dishwasher, clock, or chain-

saw that is no longer running well—then this

book is for you. It is satisfying to keep an old piece

of equipment running long past its time, and it’s a

great learning experience!

There is also something very liberating about

going on a long ride and knowing that you can

fix just about anything that might go wrong with

your bike out on the trail. Armed with this knowl-

edge (which begins with learning to identify the

parts of a mountain bike, shown in Fig. I.2) and

the tools to put it into action, you will have more

confidence to explore new areas and to go farther

than you might have otherwise.

To illustrate, an experience from way back in

1995 comes to mind, when I took a day to ride

the entire 110-mile White Rim Trail loop in Utah’s



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xv

INTRODUCTION

Canyonlands National Park. It is as desolate as

you can imagine out there, and I was completely

alone with the sky, the sun, and the rocks for long

stretches. I had a good mileage base in my legs, so

I knew I was physically capable of doing the ride

during the limited daylight hours of late October.I had checked, replaced, or adjusted practically

every part of my bike in the days before the ride.

I had also tried out the bike on long rides close to

town. Finally, I added to my saddlebag tool kit a

few tools that I do not ordinarily carry.

I knew that there was very little chance of

anything going wrong with my bike, and with the

tools I had, I could fix almost anything short of a

broken frame on the trail. Armed with this knowl-

edge and experience, I really enjoyed the ride! I

stopped and gawked at almost every breathtak-

ing vista, vertical box canyon, colorful balanced

rock, or windblown arch. I took scenic detours.

I knew that I had a good cushion of safety, so I

could totally immerse myself in the pleasure of

the ride. I had no nagging fear of something going

wrong to dilute the experience.

Confidence in your mechanical ability allows

you to be more courageous about what you will try

on trails. And armed with this confidence you’ll

be more willing to share your love of the sport

with less experienced riders. Bringing new people

along on rides is a lot more fun if you know that

you can fix their bikes and they won’t be stranded

with an old junker that won’t roll.

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

Skim through the entire book. Skip the detailed

steps, but look at the exploded diagrams and get

the general flavor of the book and what’s inside.

When it is time to perform a particular task,

you’ll know where to find it, and you’ll have a

basic idea of how to approach it.

Illustrator Todd Telander and I have done our

best to make these pages as understandable as

possible. Exploded diagrams are purposefully

used instead of photographs to show more clearly

how each part goes together. The first time you

go through a procedure, you may find it easier to

have a friend read the instructions out loud as you

perform the steps.Obviously, some maintenance tasks are more

complicated than others. I am convinced that

anyone with an opposable thumb can perform

virtually any repair on a bike. Still, it pays to spend

some time getting familiar with the really simple

tasks, such as fixing a flat, before throwing your-

self into complex jobs, such as building a wheel.

e L EVEL 1

ee L EVEL 2

eee L E V E L 3

Tasks and tools required are divided into

three levels indicating their complexity or your

proficiency. Level 1 tasks need level 1 tools and

require of you only an eagerness to learn. Level 2

and level 3 tasks also have corresponding tool sets

and are progressively more difficult. All repairs

mentioned in this book are classified as level 1

unless otherwise indicated. Tools are shown in

Chapter 1. The section at the end of Chapter 2,

“Performing Mechanical Work: A General Guide”

(§ii-17), is a must-read; it states general policies

and approaches that apply to all mechanical work.

Each chapter starts with a list of required tools

in the margin. If a section involves a higher level

of work, there will be an icon designating the level

and tools necessary to perform the tasks in that

section. Tasks and illustrations are numbered for

easy reference. Section references use the sym-

bol “§.” For instance, “§iii-6” means “see Section

iii-6 in Chapter 3.” Illustrations are referred to as

“Figures,” for instance, “Fig. 3.3.”



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xx

and 650B (27.5-inch) tires and wheels are gaining

favor, particularly for tall riders. Smaller 24-inch

wheels and tires are found on small mountain bikes.

Tire widths and shapes vary and include everything

from studded snow tires to smooth street tires. This

book also covers “hybrid” bikes (Fig. I.5), which are across between road bikes and mountain bikes.

No matter how a mountain bike is configured,

even those who see themselves as having no

mechanical skills will be able to tackle problems

as they arise if they study the steps necessary

to properly maintain and repair their bike. With

a little bit of practice and a willingness to learn,

your bike will transform itself from a mysterious

contraption seemingly too complicated to tamper

with to a simple, very understandable machine

that can be a genuine delight to work on. Just

allow yourself the opportunity and the dignity to

follow along, rather than deciding in advance thatyou will never be able to do this. All you have to

do is follow the instructions and trust yourself.

So, set aside your self-image as someone who

is “not mechanically oriented” (and any other fac-

tors that may stand in the way of your making

your mountain bike ride like a dream), and let’s

start playing with your bike!



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1

1

expensive), and they ensure that your riding bud-

dies will show up not only to ask your sage advice,

but also to borrow your tools.

And if you really want to go all out and be set

up like a pro (and even have mechanics wanting

to borrow your tools), you can splurge on the set

shown in Figure 1.4. If you loan tools, you might

consider marking your collection to help recover

those items that might otherwise take a long

time finding their way back to your workshop.

It wouldn’t hurt writing down the details about

which tool you lent to whom and on what date.

You would be surprised how easy it is to forget

who has one of your seldom-used tools such as

snapring pliers or a metric tap.

i-1

LEVEL 1 TOOL KIT

e L EVEL 1Level 1 repairs are the simplest and do not

require a workshop, although it is nice to have a

good space to work. You will need the following

tools (Fig. 1.1A):

You can’t do much work on a bike without

tools. Still, it’s not always clear exactly which

tools to buy. This chapter clarifies the tools you

should consider owning on the basis of your level

of mechanical experience and interest.

As I mentioned in the Introduction, the main-

tenance and repair procedures in this book are

classified by their degree of difficulty. Nearly all the

repairs in this book are classified as level 1, unless

otherwise indicated. The tools for levels 1, 2, and 3

are pictured and described in the following pages.

Lists of the tools needed in each chapter are shown

in the margin at the beginning of each chapter.

For the uninitiated, there is no need to rush

out and buy a large number of bike-specific tools.

With only a few exceptions, the Level 1 Tool Kit

(Fig. 1.1A) consists of standard metric tools. This

kit is similar to the collection of tools I recom-

mend later in this chapter to carry with you on

rides, though in a more compact and lightweight

form (Figs. 1.5–6). The Level 2 Tool Kit (Fig. 1.2)

contains several bike-specific tools, allowing you

to do more complex work on the bike. The tools

in the Level 3 Tool Kit (Fig. 1.3) are extensive (and

Behold, we lay a tool here and on the morrow it is gone.

—The Book of Mormon

TOOLS



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2

• Tire pump with a gauge and a valve head

to match your bike’s tubes (either Presta or

Schrader valves—see Fig. 1.1B; most good pumps

will fit both). A spare rubber valve-seal insert for

the head is a good idea; these wear out.

• Standard screwdrivers: small, medium, andlarge (one of each).

• Phillips-head screwdrivers: one small and one

medium.

• Set of three plastic tire levers (Figs. 6.5–6).

• At least two spare tubes of the same size and

valve type as those on your bike.

• Container of regular talcum powder. It works

well for coating tubes and the inner casings

of tires. Do not inhale this stuff; it’s bad for

the lungs.

• Patch kit. Choose one that comes with sand-

paper instead of a metal scratcher and patches

with soft orange rubber backing to the black

rubber (Fig. 6.11). At least every year and a half,

check that the glue has not dried up, regard-

less of whether the tube has been opened or

not. On rides, you might as well take a little

packet of glueless patches; they don’t work as

well as standard patches, but if the glue has

dried up, you’ll be glad you have them.

• One 6-inch adjustable wrench (aka “Crescent

wrench”).

• Pliers: regular and needle-nose.

• Set of metric hex keys (aka “Allen wrenches”

or “hex wrenches”) that includes 2.5mm, 3mm,

4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm sizes.

Folding sets are available and work nicely to

keep your wrenches organized but are not

strong enough or long enough in the big sizes

(6mm and up); big bolts require more leverage.

I also recommend buying extras of the 4mm,

5mm, 6mm, and 8mm sizes.

• Set of metric open-end/box-end wrenches

that includes 7mm, 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 13mm,

14mm, 15mm, and 17mm sizes.

• 15mm pedal wrench. This is thinner and lon-

ger than a standard 15mm wrench and thicker

than a cone wrench (Fig. 9.3). Your bike’s ped-

als may accept only a 6mm or 8mm hex key

(Fig. 9.4), so you may not need this tool.

• Chain tool for disconnecting and reconnecting

chain

chain lube

patch kit

spare tube

grease

plenty of rags

modern shock pump

1.1A Level 1 Tool Kit

tire levers

15mm pedal wrench



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CHAPTER 1

3

chains (Figs. 4.10–11). Older chain tools may

be too wide for the narrow chains on newer

bikes; read the Pro Tip in Chapter 4 before

buying one.

• Chain-elongation gauge to monitor the condi-

tion of the chain (Figs. 4.5–6).

poke wrench

talc

standard and Phillips-head screwdrivers

metric hexkeys

metric open-end/box-end wrenches

pliers

6" adjustable wrench

Schrader valve adapterfor old Marzocchi andRockShox forks

rubbing alcohol

tirepumpwithgauge

Schrader

Presta

rubbingalcohol

noggin

folding metrichex keys

needle-nosepliers

1.1B Valve types

chain-elongation gauge

talcumpowder



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4

• Spoke wrench to match the size of nipples

used on your bike’s wheels.

• Tube or jar of grease. I recommend using

grease designed specifically for bicycles; how-

ever, standard automotive grease is okay,

except in suspension forks and twist shifters.• Drip bottle or can of chain lubricant (Fig. 4.1).

Please choose a nonaerosol; it is easier to

control, uses less packaging, and wastes less

in overspray.

• Rubbing alcohol for cleaning disc-brake pads,

rotors, shocks, and internal parts and for

removing and installing handlebar grips.

• A lot of rags!

Other useful items:

• If you have an air-sprung suspension fork or

rear shock, you need a shock pump. Get one

with a no-leak head if the front or rear shock

has standard Schrader valves (Fig. 13.10),

and get the adapter you need if your bike’s

fork requires either a ball needle or a spe-

cial adapter to insert down inside a sunken

Schrader valve.

i-2LEVEL 2 TOOL KIT

ee L EVEL 2Level 2 repairs are a bit more complex, and I

recommend that you create a well-organized

workspace with a shop bench. Keeping your work-

space organized is probably the best way to make

maintenance and repair easy and quick. You will

need the entire Level 1 Tool Kit (Fig. 1.1A) plus the

following tools (Fig. 1.2):

Portable bike stand. Be sure that the stand is

sturdy enough to remain stable when you’re

really cranking on the wrenches. If for some

reason you can’t clamp your bike’s seatpost,

you will need a bike stand that holds the bike

by the bottom bracket and the front or rear end

with one wheel out; see the one in Figure 1.4.

portable bikestand

ball-peen

splined pedal-spindle removaltool

Channel-lock pliers

1.2 Level 2 Tool Kit

sound system

duct tape

tire pressure

gauge

rubber gloves

snapringpliers



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TOOLS

chain lubricant

12-inch ruler

chain tool

lots of rags

rubber gloves

OPTIONAL

chain-elongatioindicator

master link plie

solvent (citrusbased)

self-contained ccleaner

old water bottle

caliper

pliers

solvent tank

Rohloff cog-weaindicator

4

fancy about it, you can assess the type of condi-

tions in which you ride and choose a lubricant

intended for those conditions. Some lubricants

are dry and pick up less dirt in dry conditions.

Some are sticky and therefore less likely to

wash off in wet conditions. Still others claim to

be “metal conditioners” that actually penetrate

and alter the surface of the metal. One of these,

ProGold’s ProLink, gives me longer chain life in all

riding conditions, with daily use, than anything

else I have tried, so that’s what I use. I’m not say-

ing that there aren’t other equally good products,

but by recommending one that I know is good,

I can cut down on the e-mails asking me what

chain lube I suggest.

Chain lubes generally come in spray cans and

in squeeze bottles. Sprays should be avoided for

regular maintenance chores because they tend

to spew too much oil over everything, includ-

ing in the air where you can inhale the lube. The

chain needs oil only between contacting parts.

On the outside, a thin film is sufficient to keep

corrosion at bay; more than that will only attract

dirt and gunk without improving the function of

the chain.

Abike chain is a simple series of links connected

by rivets. Rollers surround each rivet between

the link plates and engage the teeth of the cogs

and chainrings. It is an extremely efficient method

of transmitting mechanical energy from the ped-

als to the rear wheel. In terms of weight, cost, and

efficiency, the bicycle chain has no equal, and—

believe me—people have tried without success to

improve on it for years.

To keep your bike running smoothly, you have

to take care of the chain. It needs to be kept clean

and well lubricated in order to transmit your

energy efficiently and shift smoothly. Chains need

to be replaced frequently to prolong the working

life of other, more expensive, drivetrain compo-

nents because a chain gets longer as its internal

parts wear, thus contacting the gear teeth differ-

ently than intended.

CHAIN SERVICE AND ASSEMBLY

iv-1LUBRICATING THE CHAIN

When lubricating the chain, use a lubricant

intended for bicycle chains. If you want to get

A chain is only as strong as its weakest link.

—Anonymous

A sausage is only as good as its last link.

—Bluto

CHAINS



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52

1. Drip a small amount of lubricant across each

roller (Fig. 4.1). Periodically move the chain so

that you can easily access the links you are

working on. To speed the process, turn the

crank slowly while dripping lubricant onto

the chain as it goes by. Yes, this method will

cause you to apply excess lubricant, which

will pick up more dirt. But overlubricating is

far preferable to not lubricating, and if you

wipe and lube the chain after each ride or

two, it won’t build up excessive grime.

2. Wipe the chain off lightly with a rag. In wet

conditions, expect to use more lubricant (after

every ride or even during a long, rainy ride).

iv-2CLEANING THE CHAIN BY FREQUENT

WIPING AND LUBRICATION

Cleaning the chain can be accomplished in

a number of ways. The simplest method to

maintain a chain is to wipe it down frequently,

lubricate it, and then wipe off the excess lube. If

you do this procedure before every ride, you will

never need to clean the chain with a solvent.

The lubricant softens the old sludge buildup,

which is driven out of the chain when you

ride. Of course, the lubricant also picks up new

dirt and grime, but if you wipe them off before

they’re driven deep into the chain and relubri-

cate the chain frequently, it will stay clean and

supple. Chain cleaning can be performed as fol-

lows with the bike standing on the ground or in

a bike stand:

4.1 Lubing the chain

4.2 Wiping the chain with a rag



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CHAPTER 4

53

1. Grab the chain with a rag. Grasp the lower

length of the chain (between the bottom of

the chainring and the rear-derailleur lower

jockey wheel).

2. Turn the crank backward a number of revo-

lutions. Pull the chain through the rag (Fig.

4.2). Periodically rotate the rag to present a

cleaner section of it to the chain.

3. Lubricate the chain as in §iv-1.

To encourage regular care, leave a pair of rub-

ber gloves, a rag, and some chain lube next to your

bike. Then, whenever you return from a ride, put on

the gloves, wipe and lube the chain, and put your

bike away. It takes maybe a minute, your hands

stay clean, and your bike is ready for the next ride.

If you can find time to take a shower after you ride,

you can find time for this. Wipe the chainrings,

cogs, front derailleur, and jockey wheels (Fig. 4.3)

while you’re at it, and the entire drivetrain will

always work ideally.

iv-3USING CHAIN-CLEANING UNITS

Several companies make chain-cleaning units

that scrub the chain with a solvent while it is

on the bike. These chain cleaners are generally

made of clear plastic and have two or three

rotating brushes that scrub the chain as it moves

through the solvent bath (Fig. 4.4). The units offer

the advantage of letting you clean the chain

without removing it from the bike. Regularly

removing the chain shortens any chain’s life;

moreover, with 9- or 10-speed chains unless you

use a master link, you may find that the chain

breaks under high load, thereby driving your foot,

and perhaps your entire body, into the ground.

Most chain-cleaning units come with a non-

toxic, citrus-based solvent. For your safety, and

other environmental reasons, I strongly recom-

mend that you purchase nontoxic citrus solvents

for the chain-cleaning unit, even if it already

comes with a petroleum-based solvent. If you

recycle used diesel fuel, then go ahead and use it.

In any case, wear gloves and glasses when using

any solvent.

Citrus chain solvents often contain some

lubricants, so they won’t dry the chain out. The

combination of lubricant and solvent is why diesel

fuel has had such a following as a chain cleaner.

A really strong solvent without lubricant (acetone,

for example) will displace the oil from inside the

rollers. The solvent will later evaporate, leaving a

4.3 Wiping the jockey wheels with a rag 4.4 Using a solvent-bath chain cleaner



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54

dry, squeaking chain that is hard to rehabilitate.

The same can happen with a citrus-based solvent

that does not include a lubricant if no lubricant is

separately applied, especially if the chain is not

allowed to dry long enough. The procedure for

using a chain-cleaning unit is straightforward: 1. Remove the top and pour in the solvent up

to the ll line.

2. Place the chain-cleaning unit up against the

bottom of the chain. Reinstall the top so that

the chain runs through it (Fig. 4.4).

3. Turn the bike’s crank backward. Run the

chain through the unit’s brushes until it is

clean.

4. Remove the unit from the chain.

5. Lubricate the chain as in §iv-1.

6. Let the solvent settle, decant the clear por-

tion, and discard the sludge.

iv-4REMOVING AND CLEANING THE CHAIN

e L EVEL 1You can also clean the chain by removing it from

the bicycle and cleaning it in a solvent. I do not

recommend this procedure unless the chain has

a master link, because repeatedly disassembling

the chain by pushing rivets in and out weakens it.

Mountain bike chains are prone to break-

age because of the conditions in which they are

used, but chain breakage is even more of an issue

because of the narrow width of 9- and 10-speed

chains. A chain that breaks during riding gener-

ally does so when you shift the front derailleur

while pedaling hard. This technique can pry a

link plate open so that the head of a rivet pops

out of the plate, tearing the chain apart. Chain

disassembly and reassembly expand the size of

the rivet hole where you put the chain together,

allowing the rivet to pop out more easily. Shimano

supplies special “subpins” for reassembly of its

chains that are meant to prevent this problem,

but the chain is still not as strong there as if you

had left the original pin in place.

A hand-opened master link can avoid the

problem of repeatedly opening and reassemblingthe chain. Master links are standard on SRAM,

Wippermann, Taya, and KMC chains. An after-

market master link, like Lickton’s SuperLink, can

also be installed into any chain so long as you

make sure that the master link is the right width.

If you do disassemble the chain (see §iv-7

or §iv-11 for instructions), you can clean it well,

even without a solvent tank. Just drop the chain

into an old jar or water bottle half filled with sol-

vent. Using an old water bottle or jar allows you

to clean the chain without touching or breathing

the solvent—something to be avoided even when

you are using citrus solvents.

The procedure for cleaning the chain without

using a chain-cleaning unit could not be simpler:

1. Remove the chain from the bike (§iv-7 or

§iv-11).

2. Drop it in a water bottle or jar.

3. Pour in enough solvent to cover the chain.

4. Shake the bottle vigorously. Keep it low to

the ground in case the top pops off or the jar

breaks.

5. Hang the chain to air-dry.

6. Reassemble it on the bike (see §iv-8 to

§iv-11).

7. Lubricate it as in §iv-1.

Whatever you do, don’t leave the chain to

soak for extended periods in citrus-based sol-

vents, because these are water based and will

cause the chain to oxidize (rust), making it move

with more friction and be more prone to break-

age. (Some people believe in having two chains

they rotate on and off the bike, leaving one soak-

ing in solvent while the other one is on the bike.



16/29

CHAPTER 4

55

Although this would work with diesel fuel as the

solvent, it won’t work with water-based solvents.

In any case, you gain nothing by soaking the chain

for extended periods, so just don’t do it.)

After removing the chain, allow the solvent

in the bottle or jar to settle for a few days so thatyou can decant the clear stuff and use it again. I’ll

say this throughout the book: Use a citrus-based

solvent. It is not only safer for the environment;

it is also gentler on your skin and less harmful

to breathe. Wear rubber gloves when working

with any solvent, and use a respirator meant for

volatile organic compounds if you are not using

a citrus-based solvent. There is no sense in fixing

your bike to go faster if you end up becoming a

slow, sickly bike rider.

iv-5REPLACING THE CHAIN

e L EVEL 1As the rollers, pins, and plates wear out, the

chain lengthens. That, in turn, hastens the wear

and tear on other drivetrain parts. An elongated

chain concentrates the load on each individual

gear tooth, rather than distributing it over all of

the teeth that the chain is wrapped around, and

as a result the gear teeth become hook-shaped

and the tooth valleys become wider. If such wear

has already occurred, a new chain will not solve

the problem. A new chain will not mesh prop-

erly with deformed teeth, and it is likely to skip

whenever you pedal hard. So before all of that

extra wear and tear hits your pocketbook, get in

the habit of checking the chain on a regular basis

(§iv-6) and replacing it as needed.

How long it takes for the chain to wear out

will vary, depending on chain type, maintenance,

riding conditions, and strength and weight of the

rider. Figure on replacing the chain every 500 to

1,000 miles, especially for bikes ridden in dirty

conditions by a large rider. Lighter riders riding

mostly on paved roads can often extend replace-

ment time to more than 2,000 miles.

iv-6CHECKING FOR CHAIN ELONGATION

e L EVEL 1a. Chain-elongation gauges

The simplest accurate method for checking chain

elongation is to use a gauge. Make sure you check a

number of spots on the chain; you’ll find variation.

The Rohloff gauge (Fig. 4.5) is simple, quick,

and reliable. It’s a go/no-go gauge. Brace the hook

end against a chain roller, and if the opposing

curved tooth falls completely into the chain so

that the length of the tool’s body contacts it, the

chain is shot. If the chain is still in good shape, the

curved tooth will not go all of the way in. The tooth

marked “S” is for checking a chain running strictly

on steel rear cogs, and the tooth marked “A” is for

checking aluminum and titanium cogs, but I use

just the A side. I find that if the A edge comes down

to the chain and I replace it right then, I get almost

infinite life out of my chainrings and cogs, even

titanium ones. That’s worth it to me.

The ProGold chain gauge (Fig. 4.6) is also quick

and accurate. Brace the hooked end against a

chain roller, and let the long tooth drop into the

4.5 Checking chain wear with the Rohloff gauge.If the curved tooth with the S (steel cogs)falls completely into the chain, replace the

chain (A is for aluminum cogs).



17/29


198

“Square taper,” “Octalink,” and “ISIS” are three

different bottom-bracket and crankarm interface

standards. Square-taper bottom-bracket spindles are

square on the end (Figs. 8.1, 8.18, 8.21–23) and t into

a square hole in the crankarm. The spindle ends are

tapered (at a 2-degree angle) to tighten into the crankas the arm is pushed into the spindle. ISIS (Fig. 8.19)

and Shimano Octalink (Fig. 8.20) are both oversized

hollow spindles (aka “pipe spindles”) with longitudinal

splines on the ends.

3. Unscrew the crank puller’s (Fig. 8.6) center

push bolt so that its tip is ush with the

face of the tool. Make sure the flat end of

the push bolt is the right size for the bottom

bracket; the push bolt end is much smaller

for a square-taper spindle than for an ISIS or

a Shimano Octalink splined spindle.

4. Thread the crank puller into the hole in the

crankarm. Be sure that you thread it in (by

hand) as far as it can go; otherwise, you will

not engage sufficient crank threads when you

tighten the push bolt, and you will damage

the threads. Future crank removal depends

on those threads being in good condition.

5. Tighten the push bolt clockwise (Fig. 8.6)

until the crankarm pulls off the spindle. Use

a socket wrench or the included handle.6. Unscrew the puller from the crankarm.

Installation

a. Integrated-spindle cranks with two pinch

bolts on the left arm

e L E V E L 11. Grease the spindle tip and the bore of each

bearing.

2. Push the spindle (which is attached to the

right crankarm) in through the bearings from

the drive side.

3. Slide the left arm onto the end of the spindle.

Check that the crank is at 180 degrees from

the right arm.

8.5 Removing and installing a Shimano 2007–2010 XTR FC-M970 crankset

left bearing cupspacer

spindle

washer adjusting nut

left crankarm

washer retainer

bolt

bolt

rightbearingcup

rightcrankarm TL-FC35

crankarmremovaltool

TL-FC17adjustingnut tool

spacer

spindle coverwith O-rings

(Attention: left-hand thread!)



18/29

423

I N D E X

Adjustable cups, 207, 215, 216, 221,

40 9

Air compressors, 11, 122, 154

Air pressure, 318, 320, 326–327

Air-sleeves, servicing, 353, 354, 35 5

Alignment tool, 10

Antiseize compound, 28, 200

Antitwist tool, 9

Automatic transmission fluid (ATF),

336, 337

Axle-clamp tool, 10Axle nuts, 15, 20

Axles, 30, 212, 299, 409

checking, 19

cleaning, 130

removing, 129

replacing, 23 5

securing, 23– 24

through-, 20– 22 , 23, 12 8

Ball bearings, 142, 174, 203, 204,

207, 218, 231, 234, 358, 35 9,

360, 361, 409

angular-contact, 272 , 277, 278,279, 281

ceramic, 136, 217, 219

cleaning, 130–131, 133, 221, 237,

277, 280

loose, 278, 279

lubricating, 131, 132, 2 81, 286

orienting, 218–219, 278

overtightening, 272

press-in, 211, 279

replacing, 130, 131, 217–220, 277,

280, 282, 359–360

sealed, 416

standard, 280

steel, 136, 217

See also Cartridge bearings

Bar ends, 153, 154, 287, 409

installing, 95–96, 255, 257

position of, 390–391

replacing, 95–9 6, 257, 258

Barrel adjusters, 77, 78, 88, 89, 90,

92, 93 , 149, 151, 152, 153, 154,

166, 409

BBT-39 tool, 200, 212

Bearing cups, 207, 211, 212, 409

Bearing pullers, 211, 219–220

Bearing removers, 11

Belt drives, 64–66, 101

Bike dimensions, 385

Bike fitting, 383–391, 385–3 93

Bike stands, 4, 9

Blankets, 14, 48

Body measurements, 385–388Bosses, 176, 180, 181, 183, 186, 188,

191, 194, 30 9

brake, 148, 150, 345, 348, 410

cantilever, 148, 311, 312, 313, 348,

350, 351, 411

disc-brake, 312, 313, 35 0, 351

Bottom-bracket cups, 30, 83, 213,

217, 223, 3 50

Bottom-bracket shells, 11, 58, 66, 81,

83, 207, 208, 20 9, 210, 212, 213,

214, 215, 216, 220, 222, 22 3,

252, 35 2, 387, 410

cleaning, 211, 212full-carbon, 204

tapp ing, 35 0

unthreaded, 203

Bottom-bracket tools, 6

Bottom brackets, 65, 102, 108, 109,

110, 191, 195, 198, 2 03– 216, 231,

345, 388, 409

adjusting, 201, 222, 223

BB30: 220

BB86: 204, 205, 206

BB90: 204, 206

BB92: 204–206, 210–211, 220

BB95: 204–206, 210–211, 219

cartridge, 212–213, 216, 220–2 21,

223–225

cup-and-cone, 213–216, 221, 222,

22 3

eccentric, 58, 66

external-bearing, 203, 205, 206,

209–210

height, 384, 38 6, 410

installing, 83, 208–216, 221

integrated-spindle, 216, 217

ISIS, 198, 213

ISO, 206

noise in, 221–224

overhauling, 109, 216–2 21, 223

PF24: 205, 210–211, 220

PF30: 204, 220

Shimano, 207, 209, 213, 215

square-taper, 198, 203 , 208

threaded, 206 –2 07, 217 –220, 35 0 thr eadless, 2 04 , 210 –212 , 219

Box-cutter knife, 6

Brake boosters, 189, 194, 410

Brake hoses, 46, 164, 166, 173

installing, 189

Brake levers, 96, 152–155, 177, 184,

25 5

positioning, 152–154

removing, 96, 152–154, 258

shift cables and, 88

squeezing, 15, 163

Brake pads, 23, 42, 126, 164, 174,

299, 410adjusting, 151, 177, 180, 181,

188–189, 193

checking, 15, 156

cleaning, 156

cottered, 155, 156, 157

disc, 155–157

offset of, 177–178, 182

removing, 166, 171

replacing, 166, 179–180, 181, 191,

192, 193

rims and, 40–41

spacing, 149, 158, 166

toeing in, 18 3, 19 1, 193 –194

worn, 148, 150, 193

Brake reach, adjusting, 154–155

Brakes, 23, 24, 152, 154, 170–171,

173, 183, 185, 186, 410

bleeding, 168–170

checking, 15, 16, 22

curved-face, 183

cylindrical-arm, 18 3



19/29


424

cylindrical-clamp, 182

disconnecting, 328, 3 31

feel of, 184

Hayes, 157, 159, 168–170, 173

hub, 414

linkage, 148, 190, 194

mounting, 162-163

opening, 40–41

options for, 147–148releasing, 16–17, 23, 148, 150

rim, 16, 149, 150, 301

rubbing, 370

Shimano, 88–89, 9 5, 167, 185

troubles hoot ing w ith, 19 2–19 4

See also Cantilever brakes; Disc

brakes; Hydraulic brakes;

Roller-cam brakes; U-brakes;

V-brakes

Braking, 291, 322

chattering/vibration when, 183,

369, 372, 374, 375

problems with, 369–370

Brushes, 24, 26

Buckets, 24

Bushings, 180, 181, 211, 231, 234,

330, 334, 335, 353, 354, 355,

356, 35 8, 361, 410

replacing, 359–360

Cable cutters, 6, 86

Cable stops, 348, 410

Cable tension, 72, 76–78, 107

adjusting, 71, 74, 85, 148–149, 151,

152, 186, 230–231, 396Cables, 76, 97, 148–154, 178, 185,

190, 2 51, 311, 410

broken, 45– 46

clamping, 40– 41

Gore-Tex, 86, 94, 95, 178

installing, 22, 74, 92–93, 94, 150

loose, 40–41, 85

lubricating, 30, 94–9 5, 107, 149,

150

maintaining, 103, 149, 152, 192

replacing, 30, 85, 87– 92, 149, 150,

152

shift, 80, 85, 88, 89–90Shimano, 89–90

sticky, 68, 107

ty ing, 43

worn, 151, 193

Calipers, 11, 41, 150, 156, 163, 170,

313, 410

cleaning, 171–173

disc-brake, 31, 161, 162, 173–174

hydraulic, 156, 171–173

measuring, 415

mounting, 161–162

overhauling, 173–174

postmount, 163

Cantilever brakes, 16, 22, 31, 41,

147–148, 149, 150, 151, 175–180,

411

curved-face, 183

overhauling, 180 –187

sidepull, 417

Cantilevers, 147, 148, 150, 151, 152,

194, 417

Carbon-grip compound, 9

Cartridge bearings, 103, 133–136,

208, 219, 231, 276, 279, 280,

286, 358 , 359, 411

angular-contact, 27 7, 278, 281

cleaning, 133 –134

lubricating, 31

See also Ball bearings

Cartridge-removal tool, 340

Cartridges, 208, 352

air inflation, 35

Centering, 126, 178–179, 301–3 03

Chain cleaners, 26, 53–5 4

Chain elongation, checking for,

55–56, 67, 69

Chain-elongation gauges, 3, 55– 56,

69

Chain gap, 78–79

Chain keepers, 7

Chain length, determining, 57–59, 7 3

Chain links, 411loosening, 67

replacing, 38, 56, 60

spacing between, 6 6

spare, 13

tigh t/st if f, 6 6, 6 7

twisted, 3 6– 38

Chain retention devices, 100–101

Chain stops, 110

Chain suck, 66– 67, 107, 201, 370, 411

Chain tensioner, 101

Chain tools, 2–3, 12, 33, 38, 42, 5 6,

59, 61, 62

Chain whips, 6, 7, 138, 139, 140, 141,142, 411

Chainlines, 85, 107–108, 224, 411

measuring, 108–110

Chainring bolts, 195, 201, 202, 222

Chainring-cassette removal tools, 6

Chainring-nut tools, 6, 202, 411

Chainrings, 27, 37, 42–45, 51, 53, 55,

57, 58, 60, 64, 65, 195, 197–202,

216, 411

bent, 201

chainstays and, 223–225

cleaning, 26, 66, 200

inner, 109, 22 3

inspecting, 66, 200–201

installing, 66, 202

jammed chains and, 36

loose, 221

maintaining, 200

middle, 10

spindles and, 209

worn, 200

Chains, 411

assembling, 51–52

broken, 38, 54, 56, 57, 59

cleaning, 26–2 7, 52–55, 66

connecting, 57, 59– 61

dropping, 110, 370

jammed, 15, 36–38, 370

lubricating, 4, 13, 25–26, 27, 30,

51–54, 66, 6 7, 74, 105, 254

maintaining, 152

measuring, 140

removing, 27, 44, 45, 54 –57, 63

replacing, 55, 62, 67, 68, 74, 150

Shimano, 26, 56, 59, 60–61, 62

skipping, 67, 107, 370

slapping, 370, 372

squeaking, 67

SRAM, 54 , 56, 61, 62

troubles hooting , 66 –6 9

with twisted link, 37–38

wiping, 25, 26, 27, 30, 52– 53, 67Wippermann, 37, 54, 56, 62, 6 7, 69

Chainstays, 23, 40, 43, 6 5, 66, 74,

81, 102, 103, 109, 159, 213, 34 9,

361, 367, 411

chain suck and, 67

chainrings and, 223–225

jammed chains and, 36

Circlips, 208, 211, 212, 220, 313, 327,

33 6

Clamps, 58, 81, 82, 83, 254 , 255, 276

cylindrical, 182

saddle, 245, 246

seatpost, 31, 46, 253, 254split, 153

See also Stem clamps

Cleats, 226, 230

adjusting, 227–229, 240

installing, 227–229

loose, 239–24 0

Clunking noises, problems with,

222–223, 372



20/29

INDEX

425

Cog-wear indicator gauge, 11

Cogs, 51, 55, 58, 64, 73, 74, 75, 77,

78, 79, 108, 111, 127, 137–146,

209, 411

cassette, 138–141

checking, 67–68

cleaning, 26, 5 3, 138, 139, 140

removing, 68, 102, 138, 139, 140,

145–146replacing, 68, 139, 140, 141

worn, 67, 139, 140

Compression, 316, 357, 358, 3 61

Compression damping, 321–3 22,

362, 365, 366, 411

adjusting, 316, 323, 32 5, 364

Compression rings, 273, 276, 27 8

Concentric-pivot systems, 43, 65,

102

Cones, 6, 127, 128–133, 213–216,

221, 222, 22 3, 236, 237, 409, 411

Crank bolts, 195, 197, 199, 200, 222 ,

411

Crank extraction tools, 197

Crank pullers, 6, 195, 198

Crankarms, 84, 195, 197–202, 210,

211, 216, 217, 221, 22 5, 226 , 227,

244, 363, 385, 411

length/determining, 388

loose, 222–223

removing/installing, 202, 212,

215, 218

Cranks

custom, 388

hard-to-turn, 223integrated-spindle, 195, 197,

198–199, 203, 204, 205

length, 390, 411

removing/installing, 195, 197–200

Shimano, 197, 199, 202 , 207

square taper, 197, 199

troubleshooting, 2 21–224

Cranksets, 195, 210, 412

BB30: 204, 219

external-bearing, 207

lubricating, 31

three-piece, 197, 19 9, 2 03 , 20 4,

207–209Truvativ, 209, 210, 218, 219

two-piece, 20 3, 2 07

Creaking noises, 372

bottom bracket, 221–222

crank, 221–222

handlebar, 287

pedaling, 207, 239–240

seatpost, 254

Crowfoot sockets, 11, 412

Crown-race punches, 285

Crown-race removers, 11, 283, 28 4

Cup removal tools, 7

Cups, 412

adjustable, 207, 215, 216, 221, 409

bearing, 207, 211, 212, 409

bottom bracket, 30, 83, 213, 217,

223, 350

fixed, 214, 413

Damping, 318, 357, 412

adjusting, 325–326, 327, 334

changing oil and, 336 –33 8,

355–356

compression, 316, 321–322 , 323,

325, 362, 364, 365, 366, 411

hydraulic, 262, 309 –310, 314

preload, 363–3 64

pressurizing, 358

rebound, 318, 320– 321, 323, 325,

361, 362, 364, 365, 366, 416

Damping adjusters, 326, 327, 334,

36 5

Damping systems, 325, 336–338

Derailleur cages, 42, 68, 8 4, 107

Derailleur-hanger alignment tools,

11, 68, 34 9

Derailleurs, 23, 27, 47, 57, 71–80,

80–85, 209, 412

adjusting, 68, 71, 74–80, 83–85,

20 0

bent, 43, 68, 107

bottom-pull/top-pull, 82broken, 71, 103

bypassing, 44

cables and, 82, 85, 92 –94

chain length and, 57

disassembling, 88, 106

down-swing, 81

E-type, 81, 82–83, 209, 213, 223

installing, 73–74, 82–83

lubricating, 30, 105

maintaining, 26, 53, 103–106

positioning, 83, 84, 107

repairing, 42–44

replacing, 69, 79, 105, 106Shimano, 45, 46, 71, 73, 74–75,

76, 77, 79, 82–83, 84, 87, 88, 92,

106, 107, 213

spokes and, 370, 372

SRAM, 78, 82 , 87, 106, 107

top-swing, 81, 2 24

troubleshooting , 107 –110

worn, 67, 107

Disc-brake pads, checking/replac-

ing, 155–157

Disc brakes, 17, 22, 31, 147, 148, 152,

155–164, 166–175, 192, 412

adjusting, 158–164, 166

cable-actuated, 155

installing, 158–164, 166


Dishing, 301–303, 3 49, 367, 412

Dishing tools, 7, 301, 302, 412

Drills, 11

Drivetrains, 60, 65, 74, 101, 107, 292,

412

cleaning, 24–2 6

wear/tear on, 55

Dropout-alignment tools, 11, 341–

343, 342, 344, 367–368

Dropout Saver, 351

Dropouts, 18, 20, 23, 24 , 65, 66, 71,

73, 78, 102, 109, 128, 309, 311,

349, 412

aligning, 68, 342–343, 344, 366

aluminum/titanium, 368

bent, 80, 312, 344

bolt-on, 367

inspecting, 348

sliding, 58

spacing, 3 41, 342

thickness of , 351

Duct tape, 14

Dust caps, 144, 199, 200, 23 6, 237,

239, 412

Dust covers, 143, 237

Easy-outs, 354, 412

Elastomers, 249, 262 , 309, 311, 314,

315, 318, 319, 324– 326, 32 7,

331, 361, 412

End caps, 86, 152, 410, 412

Fasteners, torque for, 396– 407

(table)

Feeler gauges, 11

Files, 6

Firmly tightened, 29, 395

Foot pounds (ft-lbs), Newton-

meters and, 397Fork braces, 311, 315

Fork-crown race punch, 7

Fork-crown race remover, 283

Fork-crown races, 281, 282–28 4,

285–286

Fork crowns, 309, 310, 311, 312, 313,

315, 413

clamping, 26 8



21/29


426

fork legs and, 316, 327–3 28

Fork legs, 40, 30 9, 311, 315, 325

damaged, 313

fork crowns and, 316

removing, 327–328

telescoping, 310

Fork rake, 309, 413

Fork travel, 319

changing, 323, 338-339measuring, 315– 317

Forks, 16, 18, 115, 289, 310, 317, 413

air-sprung, 312, 326–32 7

alignment of, 312, 313, 314, 318,

341–344

aluminum, 314, 343

carbon-fiber, 314, 34 3

coil-spring, 311, 319, 324–32 6, 327

double-crown, 327, 328, 330

failure of, 311, 312

headset installation and, 284–2 85

high-end, 321, 331

inspecting, 311–313, 313– 314

linkage, 312, 314


maintaining, 313–314, 314– 315

Manitou, 34, 159, 331

movement of, 321, 322

overhauling, 314, 330 –331,

334–336

rebound damping and, 321

removing, 277, 280, 282, 330–331,

341

rigid, 309, 313–314, 344

RockShox, 326, 327, 328, 3 37,338–339, 340, 357

SID, 326, 327, 337

single-crown, 327, 328

steel, 341, 344

stuck stems in, 287

suspension, 20, 31, 46, 128, 189,

263, 282, 284, 309, 310, 313,

314, 314–315, 317–324, 330,

384, 386

telescoping, 310, 312, 314

threaded, 26 5– 26 6, 2 67, 312

tit anium, 314, 3 43

triple- clamp, 32 7–32 8, 3 30 tuni ng, 3 14, 3 15, 317–32 7

upside-down, 419

Frame size

body measurements and,

385–388

correct, 384–3 85

finding, 383, 386–3 87

Frames, 31, 208, 212, 289, 413

alignment of, 366–368

carbon, 347, 348

cleaning, 34 8

designing, 345, 347

diamond, 345, 412

headset installation and, 284–2 85

suspension, 101–102, 347, 358 –

361, 368, 386, 389, 390

ty pes o f, 24 9, 3 47

Freehubs, 78, 134, 137–146, 413

disassembling, 14 4

lubricating, 142–146

overhauling, 111

removing, 144, 146

seized, 47

solvents and, 142, 144

Freewheel removers, 7, 141

Freewheels, 127, 137–146, 413


maintaining, 111

replacing, 6 8, 111, 141

seized, 47

Front triangles, 345, 347, 34 9, 413

Gauges, 56, 57, 68

Gear development, 375–381

for 26-inch wheels, 376– 378

(table)

for 29-inch wheels, 381–3 83

(table)

Gloves, 13, 55

Grease, 4, 13, 137, 201

molybdenum disulfide, 94

nonlithium, 6, 92, 97, 335silicone-based, 6

Slick Honey, 251, 335, 355, 357,

35 9

Teflon, 92, 97

Grease guns, 6, 136, 142

Grip Shifts, 29, 78, 9 4, 95, 107, 258,

413

long/short, 97, 98

overhauling, 91–9 2

replacing, 96–97

Grips, 111, 255, 266

installing, 95–96, 257–258

removing, 95–96, 153, 25 7, 258 trimming, 2 58

Hacksaw, 6

Hammers

ball-peen, 6, 7

soft, 7

Handlebar height, 385, 388, 389–390

adjusting, 266, 392

Handlebar position, 242, 244, 2 63,

266, 388–391

Handlebar reach, 384–385, 388, 390

Handlebar slips, 286–2 87

Handlebars, 251, 255, 257, 258– 260,

273, 315, 325, 413

broken, 47, 260, 2 87

carbon, 154, 260, 39 3

drop, 384– 385


knees and, 383, 384

maintaining, 16, 259–260

overtightened, 259, 393

replacing, 258, 259–260, 266

riser, 255, 391

saddles and, 390

troubles hooting , 28 6–28 7

tw ist ing, 259, 2 66 , 26 7

ty pes o f, 2 60 , 26 6

undertightened, 393

Hangers, 13, 43, 69, 78, 8 0, 366, 410,

412

alignment of, 349–350

bent, 68, 107, 349–350

brake-cable, 271, 2 81

derailleur, 348, 349–350, 351

straddle-cable, 184

Head angles, 309, 413

Head tubes, 277, 278, 282, 28 4, 286,

367, 388, 413

measuring, 268, 270

Headlights, 14

Headset cups, 286

removing, 276, 282Headset presses, 7, 11, 285–2 86

Headset rockets, 282

Headsets, 255, 263, 270–286, 312,

313, 413

adjusting, 265, 268, 272–276, 279,

282, 286, 287

cartridge-bearing, 272

cupless, 268, 277, 278, 282


integrated, 270, 271, 274, 278,

284, 414

loose-ball, 278, 281

loosening, 274–275overhauling, 276–282

overtightening, 275

pitted, 275, 287

press-in internal with lipped

cups, 268

replacing, 281, 282–28 4, 287

semi-integrated, 270

threaded, 273 –2 76, 279– 28 2, 418



22/29

INDEX

427

threadless, 2 69 , 27 0–27 2, 2 76 –

279, 285, 387, 390

tight , 272–273, 274 –275, 287

tradit ional , 168, 2 70

troubleshooting, 2 86 –2 87

Hex keys, 12, 29, 47, 414

metric, 2, 7, 20, 40, 41, 42

HG-IG check tool, 68, 139

Hose cutters, 11Housing, 76, 77, 82, 89, 90, 9 2, 148–

152, 185, 193, 273, 410

cutting, 11, 86, 153

friction and, 150

index-shift, 86

installing, 74, 87

lower-knuckle, 79

lubricating, 30, 85, 94– 95, 151, 152

replacing, 30, 152

sticky, 68

Teflon-lined, 150, 151

Hubs, 102, 103, 127–137, 231, 30 6,

414

assembling, 131–132

cartridge-bearing, 127, 128,

132–136

cup-and-cone, 127, 128–133

DT Swiss, 28, 125, 133, 134, 142,

145

front, 127, 292

Grease Guard, 136–137

high-end, 128, 136

internal-gear, 101–103

lubricating, 131–132

overhauling, 111, 127–136replacing/flipping, 141–142

sealed-bearing, 127, 128

wheelbuilding and, 289, 2 91, 292,

29 9

Hydraulic brakes, 42, 99, 107, 148,

150, 158, 166–173, 187–190,

192, 193, 194, 414

bleeding, 31, 166, 168, 170, 171,

189–190

disconnecting, 32 8

replacing pads on, 189

Hydraulic fluid, 158, 166, 167, 169,

170, 171, 172, 173, 194Hydraulic oil, 325

Inertial valves, 322, 325, 327, 365,

414

adjusting, 323, 364

Inner legs, 310, 314, 327, 334, 335,

336, 33 7, 339, 414

installing, 328, 330

Inner tubes, 114, 122, 123, 251

finding leaks in, 115–116

inflating, 35, 36

installing, 36, 118–120

patching, 36, 116

removing, 111–112

spare, 2, 12–13, 34– 35

ty ing k nots in, 35

International Organization for

Standardization (ISO), 117, 159

Interrupted-seat-tube configura-

tions, 3 87, 3 88

Jockey wheels, 27, 43, 5 8, 59, 68, 73,

74, 78, 80, 414

bolts, 106

cartridge-bearing, 104 –105

lost, 44–45


wiping, 26, 53

Knee clearance, 38 4

Lacing, 289, 294, 296, 297–299, 306

checking, 299, 3 07

radial, 304–305

three-cross , 304 –3 05

Leaks

finding, 115–116

sealing, 122, 123, 124

Leverage, 154–155, 166, 176, 177, 414

Levers, 89, 90, 150, 170, 173

lockout, 362, 364

Shimano, 87–88, 99 –100, 107, 155split-clamp, 153

SRAM, 87, 95, 97, 155

See also Brake levers; Quick-

release levers; Tire levers

Lickton’s SuperLink, 61

Limit screws, 73, 107

adjusting, 46, 71, 74, 75–76, 78,

84, 85

Locknuts, 58, 133, 145, 146, 149, 152,

237, 271, 273, 275, 281, 414

loosening, 128–129, 132, 151, 274

removing, 236, 280

tigh tening, 132Lockouts, 316, 362, 364 , 414

Lockring tools, 6, 160

Lockrings, 78, 140, 160, 207, 213,

224, 414

adjustable-cup, 22 3

removing, 139, 221

tigh tening, 215–216

Loctite, 28, 68 , 77, 136, 212, 222 ,

231, 313

Lubrication, 30–31, 128, 330

ball bearing, 31, 131, 132, 281, 286

cable, 30, 94– 95, 107, 149, 150

chain, 4, 13, 25–26, 27, 30, 51–54,

66, 67, 74, 105, 254

crankset, 31

derailleur, 30, 105

fork, 31, 314

freehub, 142–146

freewheel, 30, 146

housing, 30, 85, 94– 95, 151, 152

hub, 131–132

pedal, 31, 239–240

piston, 173, 190

quill, 281

saddle, 31

seatpost, 31, 254, 266, 348

shifters, 30

wheel, 30

Magnet, 7

Master cylinders, 173, 415

Master links, 13, 33, 42, 54, 57,

59–60, 61, 63–64, 67, 69, 415

Matches, 14, 48

Money, 14

patching sidewalls with, 3 6

Morningstar Drumstix tool, 175

Morningstar Freehub Buddy, 7, 142,

143, 144

Morningstar Freehub Soup, 142,

143, 144

Morningstar Rotors on Center (ROC)dial-indicator tool, 10, 174–175

Mounting bolts, 69, 105, 192 , 415

Mounts

broken, 348

disc-brake, 309, 351

IS, 159, 313

ISCG, 101

Multitools, 12, 38

Needle bearings, 279, 280, 415

Newton-meters (N-m), foot-pounds

and, 397

Nipples, 124, 127, 290, 292, 29 3, 294,307–308, 415

tightening /loosening, 125, 29 9,

300, 301, 302, 303

ty pes o f, 126, 2 91, 3 08

O-rings, 144, 158, 164, 172, 337, 354,

355, 357, 362–363

Off-center rims (OCR), 292, 293, 308



23/29


428

Outer legs, 310, 312, 315, 323, 32 8,

330, 334, 415

Oversteering, 319, 322, 324

Overtightening, 259, 272, 275, 393

Pad spacers, 12, 190

Pad swing, 182

Pad-to-rim adjustment, 176–178,

187, 189, 192Pad twist, 182

Parts washer, 7

Patch glue, 116

Patch kits, 2, 12, 34–3 5, 36, 116

Patches, 35, 36

applying, 116–118

Pedal overlap, 385, 415

Pedal platforms, 317, 321, 322, 325,

36 2

Pedaling, 308, 311, 317, 322

creaking with, 207, 375

knee/joint pain while, 240

resistance while, 58, 371

stance, 415

Pedals, 235, 415

cage-type, 225

cartridge-bearing, 238–239

clip-in, 225, 226, 227–231,234,

236, 24 0, 371, 411

clunking by, 371

Crank Brothers, 228, 22 9, 230,

234, 238, 239

flat, 225

installing, 226–227, 239

Look, 228, 229, 230, 231, 232–233,234, 235, 238

loose-bearing, 31, 236 –237,

lubricating, 31, 239–24 0

Onza, 230–231, 238

overhauling, 231–232, 234–239

play in, 223, 371

release tension for, 227, 22 9–2 31,

371

removing, 226–227

Ritchey, 232, 235, 238, 239

Scott, 235

Shimano, 231, 232, 234, 235

Speedplay, 229, 231, 234, 2 35, 240Time, 228, 229, 230, 231, 232, 234,

235, 238, 239, 240


Pedro’s Green Fizz, 24

Pedro’s Ice, 31

Pedro’s Syn Lube, 30

Phil Wood Tenacious Oil, 145

Pin spanners, 7, 29, 215, 216, 221,

415

Pistons, 166, 337, 338, 356, 358

cleaning, 172–173

disc-brake, 157–158

lubricating, 173

pushing back, 157–158

Pivot bolts, 415

Pivots, 154, 155, 194, 312, 313, 415

bushing, 31

derailleur, 69, 79

loose, 107



overhauling, 105

Pliers, 2, 14, 37

Channel-lock, 6

master-link, 7, 63, 64

snapring, 6

Vise-Grip, 63

Postmounts, 159, 161, 163, 309, 313,

351

PowerLink, 61, 63, 64

Preload, 319, 322, 324, 36 2, 363

Preload adjusters, 331, 362,

363–364

Press fit systems, 204, 205, 220

ProGold ProLink, lubricating with,

51, 67

Pulling, problems with, 3 69

Pumps, 2, 12, 35, 124

floor, 120

shock, 4, 12, 326

Punctures, 15, 16

fixing, 34– 36preventing, 33–34

snakebite, 34, 35, 120, 124

Quick-release (QR), 416

Quick-release (QR) levers, 148, 188

Quick-release (QR) seatpost bind-

ers, 248, 388

Quick-release (QR) skewers, 2 0, 22 ,

34, 45, 139, 142, 342

checking, 15

installing, 132

opening, 17–18

removing, 128, 141 tightening, 19

Quills, 265, 416

lubricating, 281

Race Face, 197, 199, 210, 416

Races, 127, 136, 409, 416

fork-crown, 281, 282–2 84,

285–286

Rags, 4

Rattling noises, 287

Really tight, 30, 396

Reamers, 11

Rear triangles, 43, 65, 102, 3 42, 34 5,

416

Rebound damping, 318, 320 –321,

361, 362, 364, 416

adjusting, 321, 323, 325, 365, 366

Release tension adjustment, 22 7,

229–231, 240, 371

Ride height. See Sag

Rim strips, 35, 118, 121

Rims, 16, 121, 149, 150, 416

bent , 41, 111

brake pads and, 40– 41

cleaning, 192–193, 30 3

deep-section, 112

disc-brake, 301

drilling, 308

examining, 120

off-center, 292, 293, 308

replacing, 291

scraping, 125, 299, 3 00

spokes and, 124–127

tubeless, 2 93

wheelbuilding and, 289, 292, 29 4

Roller-cam brakes, 17, 150, 190,

191–192, 194, 416

Rotors, 127, 304

bent, 175

bolting, 160–161

cleaning, 193

installing/removing, 159–161splined, 159, 160, 161

tru ing, 41–42, 174 –175

Rubbing alcohol, 4, 2 57

Rubbing noises, problems with, 373

Saddle height, 240, 243, 24 8, 388

Saddle position, 242, 244, 24 6, 247,

253, 388–389

Saddles, 391, 416

adjusting, 243

choosing, 241–242

clamping, 245

handlebars and, 390installing, 245–246, 247–248

lubricating, 31

maintaining, 242

shape/design of, 2 42

troubleshooting problems with ,

253–254

Sag, 315, 319, 324, 361, 366, 416

measuring, 316–317, 318



24/29

INDEX

429

setting, 362–363

Saw guide, 263

Scraping noises, problems with, 3 73

Screwdrivers, 12, 42, 43 , 45, 46

bent-shaft spoke-nipple, 10

Phillips-head, 2

Sealants, 9, 16, 34, 35, 120, 122 –124,

417

aerosol, 123glycol-based, 122, 123

latex-based, 122

tubeless tir es and, 121, 123 –124

Seals, 173, 178, 216, 217, 328, 330,

356, 357, 359

bearing, 136, 277

cleaning, 354–355

installing, 278, 281

quad, 355

removing, 218, 355

square, 158, 355

Seat bags, 33, 42

Seat tubes, 45, 80, 82, 248, 249, 254,

367, 416

length of, 386, 387

Seatpost clamps, 31, 46, 253

lubricating, 254

Seatposts, 241, 243, 384, 3 89, 417

adjusting, 249–251

aluminum, 245, 252, 253, 254

broken, 47

carbon, 245, 251–252

Crank Brothers, 249, 250, 251, 388

extensions, 244

GravityDropper, 249, 250, 251, 388height-adjustable, 249–2 51, 388


lubricating, 31, 254, 3 48

maintaining, 244–245

Maverick, 249, 250, 251

position of, 244, 250

removing, 46, 244, 248, 251–253

single-bolt, 246

stuck, 251–253

suspension, 244–245, 249, 254

troubleshooting problems wi th,

253–254

two-bolt , 24 6, 2 47Seatstays, 23, 65, 3 49, 367, 417

Setscrews, 29, 79, 98, 106, 133, 185,

186, 191, 248, 331, 349

Shifters, 92, 95–103, 255

adjusting, 74–80, 83– 85

derailleurs and, 107

dual-lever trigger, 152

friction, 413

indexed, 76–78, 414

lubricating, 30

maintaining, 97–103

removing, 258

replacing, 90– 91, 96

Shimano, 77, 88, 96, 177, 416

SRAM, 90–91, 95, 107

thumb, 8 7– 88, 97, 10 0, 418

troubleshooting , 107 –110

twist , 90– 91, 9 6– 97, 98, 9 9, 10 3,

153, 154, 419

Shifting, 371

adjusting, 73

checking, 16

optimizing, 78, 95

ramps, 200

Shimano Pedaling Dynamics (SPD),

22 6

Shimmying, 369

Shims, 78, 82, 163, 356, 417

Shocks, 310, 356, 35 8, 363

air, 361, 362

coil spring, 361

deflating, 353

downhill courses and, 365–3 66

elastomer, 361, 3 62

inspecting, 348–349

installing, 355

maintaining, 352, 353

removing, 353–35 4

saddle, 241

Shoes, 225, 228

Shop, well-stocked, 9–11

Shuddering, while braking, 183Sidewalls, 114

patching, 36, 121, 122, 124

Skewers, 133, 135, 417

bolt-on, 18, 20

quick-release, 15, 17–18, 19, 20,

22, 34, 4 5, 128, 132, 139, 141,

142, 342

tigh tening, 19, 2 0

Slick Honey grease, 251, 335, 355,

357, 359

Slime, 34, 417

Snug, 29, 395

Solvents, 130citrus, 53, 54, 55, 105, 135, 2 21,

277, 280

freehubs and, 142, 144

using, 26–27, 54

Spacers, 128, 132, 157, 159, 213, 263,

265, 274, 276, 278, 279, 315,

323, 417

adding, 209

internal, 339–340

removing, 129

Spacing, 66, 149, 166, 341, 342, 3 44,

34 9

brake pad, 158

crank-to-frame, 2 24

pad-to-rotor, 163

problems/remedying, 77–78

Spanners, 417

pin, 7, 29, 215, 216, 221, 415

toothed-lockring, 2 9

Spiders, 102, 201, 417

Spindle removal tool, 6

Spindles, 109, 210, 227

bottom-bracket, 66, 203, 209,

211–212, 223

chainrings and, 20 9

installing, 212

integrated, 195, 197, 198–199, 20 3,

204, 20 5, 216, 217

pedal, 6, 227

splined, 207

square-taper, 207

upgrading, 239

Splines, 29, 140, 141, 160, 207, 417

Spoke calculator, 290, 291

Spoke-prep compound, 291

Spoke tension, 10, 124, 292 , 301

reducing, 308

Spoke-tension gauge, 10

Spokes, 76, 290, 417

adjusting, 39, 40, 127, 299, 300,

301, 302, 303

broken, 39–4 0, 41, 124, 126–127converging parallel, 299

crossing, 299, 307

derailleurs hitting, 3 70

first set of, 293–294, 305

fourth set of, 297–299, 306

Kevlar, 40

lacing, 289, 294, 296, 297–299

length of, 290

prestressing, 302, 303

pulling, 293, 303, 308

radial, 308

replacing, 38– 40, 126–127, 291

rims and, 124–127second set of, 294–295, 305–306

spare, 13, 40

thicknes s, 2 90 , 307– 30 8

third set of , 29 6– 29 7, 30 6

twisted, 12 5

weaving, 126–127

Spoking patterns, 308

one-cross, 289, 291, 306–307



25/29


430

radial, 291, 293, 303–305

three-cross , 289, 291, 29 7, 30 4–

306, 418

two-cross , 28 9, 2 91, 3 06 –3 07

Spring preload, 318, 319, 324, 36 3,

417

Spring rate, 318, 319, 320, 324, 3 62,

36 5

adjusting, 108, 323, 366Spring tension, 178–179, 191


Springs, 230, 356, 365, 36 6, 417

air, 251, 314, 324

coil, 314, 315, 319, 320, 324– 325,

331

increasing tension of, 66

negative, 326, 327, 363

positive, 326

removing, 315–316

soft, 318

stiff, 318

Squeaking noises, 372, 37 3

with saddles, 254

Squealing noises, 373

with breaking, 157, 373

Stand-over height, 345, 383, 384,

386, 387, 418

“Stan’s No Tubes” tubeless system,

120–121, 418

Star-nut installation tools, 7, 274

Star nuts, 263, 26 4, 274, 279, 418

Steering

axis, 309, 418

stiff, 372systems, 111, 255

Steering-tube overlap, 263, 27 8

Steering tubes, 267, 268, 27 0, 271,

273, 275, 276, 278, 279, 280,

281, 283, 284–285, 309, 310,

311, 418

carbon, 263, 264, 274

clamping, 28 2

cutting, 285

fork alignment and, 341, 342–3 43,

34 4

lubricating, 266

stripped threads on, 313stuck stems in, 287

threaded, 26 0, 312 , 313

threadless, 2 60 , 26 2–265, 312

Stem bolts, 265, 282, 287

Stem clamps, 259, 262, 263, 265,

268, 270, 2 79, 287, 312

spreading, 26 7

tigh tening, 274

Stem length, 263, 285, 38 8, 390, 418

Stem wedges, 265, 270

Stems, 255, 260, 262–268, 273, 275,

278, 285, 418

adjusting, 262–266, 268, 385

broken, 266

checking, 16

clamp-type, 262, 267

front-opening, 258


quill-type, 265, 281, 416

removing, 260, 262, 265, 266–268,

28 0

stuck, 266–268, 287

suspension, 26 2

torque on, 3 93


Stopscrews, 45, 80

Straddle cables, 190–191, 418


Subpins, 57, 59, 60, 61

Suspension, 111

aligning, 343

cables and, 150

fork, 20, 31, 46, 128, 189, 263, 282,

284, 30 9, 310, 313, 314–315,

317–324, 330, 384, 386

frame, 101–102, 3 47, 358–3 61,

368, 386, 389, 390

maintaining, 249

problems with, 372

rear, 43, 47, 81, 108, 128, 147, 318,

347, 361–365

seatpost, 244–245, 249, 254stem, 262

tuning, 361 –3 65

Swingarms, 23, 82, 347, 348–349,

351, 358, 36 3, 367, 418

Syringes, 7, 171, 189, 190, 338

Talcum powder, 2, 118

Tension gauge, 66

Third Eye Chain Watcher, 110

Threadlock compound, 201, 293,

313, 330, 394

Threads

fixing damaged, 350prepping/tightening, 27–28

Through-axles, 20–22, 23, 128

quick-release, 20, 21

removing/installing wheels with,

20

Thumb shifters, 97, 100, 418

replacing cable in, 87– 88

Tight, 29, 395

Tightness, 29–30, 3 93

Tire beads , 114, 115, 119, 120, 121,

418

Tire inflators, 13, 267

Tire levers, 2, 12, 114, 158, 418

Tire pressure, 6, 16, 120, 318

Tires

checking, 16, 118

deflating, 113, 116, 120, 123, 124

diameter of, 375

flat, 15, 16, 33–3 4, 112, 372, 374

inflating, 113, 120, 122, 124


removing, 111–112, 114, 115, 342

size of, 117

standard, 120–121, 122

tubeless, 3 4, 111, 114, 115, 116,

120–121, 122, 123–124

Toeclips, 225

Toeing in, 183, 191, 193–194

Tool kits

Level 1: 1–4, 14

Level 2: 1, 4, 6

Level 3 : 1, 7, 9

Tools, 1, 31, 54, 90, 163, 223, 417

carrying/while riding, 11–14, 33,

48

Enduro, 218, 219

Mavic, 216

Phil Wood, 218

Shimano, 61, 62, 199, 285

termino logy of, 7 2

Top tubes, 387, 388, 419

Torque, 199, 200, 419for fasteners, 396–407 (table)

measuring, 393, 39 5

recommendations on, 39 7

setting, 394

tightening, 29 –3 0, 3 95

Triple-clamp forks, 327– 328, 33 0

Truing, 41, 124, 127, 303

lateral, 125, 299–301

radial, 301

side-to-side, 301

Truing stands, 7, 124, 126, 299, 300,

301, 302

Tubes. See Inner tubesTubing cutters, 11

Twist shifters, 90–91, 96–97, 98, 99,

103, 153, 154, 419

U-brakes, 16, 22, 148, 190 –191, 194,

419

Understeering, 322, 324

Undertightening, 393



26/29

INDEX

431

V-brakes, 16, 17, 22, 31, 147, 148,

149, 152, 154, 155, 183, 190,

194, 419




parallel-push, 178, 179

Valve core removers, 7, 357, 358

Valve cores, 113, 123, 356, 3 57Valve extenders, 112, 113

Valve stems, 113, 114, 115, 119, 120

Valves, 115, 120

broken, 35

Presta, 34, 45, 112, 113, 114, 115,

118, 121, 123, 415

Schrader, 4, 34, 112, 115, 251, 320,

326, 32 7, 353, 416

Vibrations, braking and, 369

Vise, 6, 7

Vise grip, 6

Vise whips, 7, 138, 139, 141, 142, 419

Wheel-retention devices, 21, 419

Wheelbuilding, 40, 289–290, 303,

307–308

custom, 289

disc-brake, 291

front, 291, 293, 294

rear, 291, 293

Wheels, 343

bent, 38–41, 369for big riders, 307–3 08

centering, 301–303

disc-brake, 291, 292, 29 4, 303,

305–306

heavy-duty, 289

lubricating, 30

prestressing, 302

removing/installing, 16, 17–24,

111, 115, 128, 133, 150, 163, 166,

341, 342, 367

straightening, 38–41

truing, 40 , 124 –126, 299 –3 01

Wire, 14

Wrenches

adjustable, 2, 37, 113

Allen, 29, 409

cone, 6, 128, 132

crowfoot, 11, 412

fixed-cup, 223

headset, 6, 14, 274

metric, 2, 20open-end/box-end, 2, 12, 29

pedal, 13-14, 226

socket, 6, 29, 417

soft, 7

splined, 7, 9, 29

spoke, 4, 7, 13, 39, 40, 41, 124,

291, 299

torque, 7, 20, 20 0, 210, 2 29 , 312 ,

393– 394, 419

Torx, 6, 12, 29, 42, 2 01, 202, 419

Y-, 9



27/29

About the author

Lennard Zinn is a bike racer, frame builder, and technical writer. He grew up cycling, skiing, whitewater

rafting, and kayaking—as well as tinkering with mechanical devices—in Los Alamos, New Mexico. After

receiving his physics degree from Colorado College, he became a member of the U.S. Olympic Development

Cycling Team. He went on to work in Tom Ritchey’s frame-building shop and has been producing custom

mountain, road, and triathlon frames, as well as custom cranks and stems, at Zinn Cycles since 1982

(www.zinncycles.com).

Zinn has been writing for VeloNews since 1989 and is the magazine’s senior technical writer. Other books

by Zinn are Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance (VeloPress, 3rd ed. 2009), Zinn & the Art of Triathlon Bikes

(VeloPress, 2007), Zinn’s Cycling Primer (VeloPress, 2004), Mountain Bike Performance Handbook (MBI, 1998),

and Mountain Bike Owner’s Manual (VeloPress, 1998).

ABOUT THE ILLUSTRATOR

Todd Telander is a former mechanic and bike racer who devotes most of his time these days to artis-

tic endeavors. He attended the University of California at Santa Cruz, and while earning degrees in

Environmental Studies and Biology, he completed a graduate-level program in scientific illustration.

He has since studied fine art in several western states and was awarded an artist’s residency at Rocky

Mountain National Park. In addition to drawing bike parts, he paints and draws wildlife and landscapes

for publishers, museums, design companies, and individuals. You can see more examples of his work on

his website, www.toddtelander.com.



28/29

Also available from VeloPress

Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance 3rd Edition Lennard Zinn applies his prodigious powers of mechanical expertise to the art and science of

road bike repair. Newcomers and experienced mechanics alike will benefit from the book’s

hundreds of illustrations (including exploded views of how components go together), its step-by-

step instructions for basic and advanced repair, and Zinn’s practical, time-saving maintenance

tips. Covers new and old bikes alike.

440 pages • $24.95ISBN 978-1-93403 0-42-4

Zinn & the Art of Triathlon Bikes

Aerodynamics, Bike Fit, Speed Tuning, and Maintenance More than a repair manual, Zinn & the Art of Triathlon Bikes presents proven techniques to wring

more speed from today’s triathlon bicycles. With clear advice on bike fit and comfort, getting

aero, tuning for speed, and choosing wisely among equipment upgrades, the tips in this book

virtually guarantee faster bike splits. Of course, Zinn includes comprehensive maintenance and

repair instructions too, accompanied by more than 300 illustrations and step-by-step directions

to ensure trouble-free rides.

352 pages • $24.9 5ISBN 978-1-931382-97-7

Zinn’s Cycling Primer Maintenance Tips & Skill Building for Cyclists Drawing upon the research of cycling experts around the world, Zinn’s Cycling Primer is a one-

stop guide for improving your riding skills. Covering all aspects of road and mountain cycling,Lennard Zinn shows you how to improve your bike fit and bike handling skills, as well as your

training and recovery, injury prevention, core strength, and nutrition. Zinn also includes step-by-

step instructions for basic road and mountain bike maintenance, repair, and upgrades.

232 pages • $24.95ISBN 978-1-931382-43-4



29/29

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