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Zoomigurumi15 CUTE AMIGURUMI PATTERNS BY 12 GREAT DESIGNERS

COMPILED WITH CARE BY

INCLUDES BASIC CROCHETINSTRUCTIONS

http://www.amigurumipatterns.net

Zoomigurumi

15 cute amigurumi patterns by 12 great designers

First published 2012

by Amigurumipatterns.net

Tara Enterprise, Hellevoortstraat 26, 2560 Nijlen, Belgium

Contact us on [email protected]

Text and designs © 2012 Amigurumipatterns.net

and designers.

All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored

in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by

any means without the prior written permission of the

publisher and copyright owner.

The book is sold subject to the condition that all designs

are copyright and are not for commercial reproduction

without the permission of the designer and copyright

owner.

The publisher and authors can accept no legal respon-

sibility for any consequences ariving from the applica-

tion of information, advice or instrucions given in this

publication.

Zoomigurumi15 CUTE AMIGURUMI PATTERNS BY 12 GREAT DESIGNERS

COMPILED WITH CARE BY


zico the toucan (Created by Ana Yogui) Want to

add a warm tropical feeling to your home? You

need Zico, the toucan! 11wasabi the bunny (Created by Little Muggles) Wasabi is a playful little bunny

that adds a pop of color and a touch of whimsy to any room! He is a great pro-

ject for beginners, as you only need to use basic stitches to complete this doll! 13bernard the fox (Created by Irene Strange) Alert and ready to jump into

action, Bernard closes his eyes for just one moment - any second now he'll

run off back into the wild, with just a flicker of his tail seen in the grass… 16dakota the dog (Created by Susan Morishita) Dakota is a roly-

poly little dog that will fit in the palm of your hand. His long flop-

py ears fly in the wind as he runs to you on his stumpy little feet. 19naughty little mice (Created by Tilda & Filur) These

little mice can't resist the amazing cake their mother

baked. Would she notice if they took a small bite? 22

IN THIS BOOK YOU WILL FIND

4 CONTENTS

In 2011, I started collecting cute crochet

patterns on my website called amiguru-

mipatterns.net. These patterns have been

compiled from all over the world and have

brought smiles to many faces. From grand-

children to colleagues, no one can resist

the cuteness of amigurumi.

As the site kept on growing, a little idea

grew along... All these designers on my

website make amazing work; they're so

good at what they're doing. I think they

deserve to be published.

Encouraged by amigurumi fans world-

wide, I started collecting patterns that

HI!

Enjoy crocheting!

Joke (www.amigurumipatterns.net)

are irresistibly cute and unseen unique. In

this first patternbook, twelve designers have

teamed up to create an amazing collection.

Amigurumi must be the most fun way to

use a crochet hook! With just a little practice,

you'll make all these amazing designs in a jiffy.

If you're not familiar with the techniques, then

don't worry. This book has a few pages explain-

ing all the basics so you won't get lost reading

your first pattern.


roary the tiger (Created by Josephine Wu - A Morning Cup of Jo Creations) Roary

wants to be known as The Kind King of the Jungle! Because this little cub has grand

dreams and a big heart, he'll be the perfect addition to your animal kingdom. 27johnny the monkey (Created by Pepika) If you are

looking for a loyal and daring partner to share your

adventures with, then Johnny is the right guy for you!31leila the pony (Created by Lilleliis) Leila is the most cheerful and starry-

eyed pony girl you could ever imagine. By adding cute eyelashes, braids

and ribbons, you can turn her into a true beauty. 36lil quack the duck (Created by Little Muggles) Wearing a little sailor hat

and matching shawl, Lil Quack is simply one of the cutest animals you

will ever crochet! Get ready to melt some hearts with this creation! 41Levi the baby bear (Created by Josephine Wu - A Morning Cup of Jo

Creations) Levi the Baby Bear is a fun-loving little cub who’s ready to

explore the wilderness and tag along with you wherever you go! 44eduardo the donkey (Created by Pii_Chii)

Eduardo is a little donkey who loves hats. Is there

anyone who can resist a donkey wearing a cute hat? 47reco the pig (Created by Airali Handmade) Reco is a

farmer-pig who loves growing his own fruits and vegetables.

Dressed in his dungarees, he’s ready to go harvesting! 51morton the moose (Created by Footloosefriend) Morton loves to

wade in the shallow waters of beautiful northern lakes. He may

be from the far north, but he will join you wherever you are! 54tara the cat (Created by Sarsel) Tara is an energetic

young cat who has a knack for adventure and has

trouble sitting still for more than a few minutes. 57sartù the lemur (Created by Airali Handmade) Sartù jumps and plays non-

stop. It’s hard to keep up with him, but when he smiles and looks at you in his

irresistible way, it’s impossible not to give him all the attention he needs.62

5 CONTENTS

BASIC STITCHES

If this is your first time making amigurumi you might

find it useful to have a tutorial of the most basic stitches.

With the stitches explained here you can make all

amigurumi in this book.

I suggest you try them before you start making one

of the animals, it will surely help you read the patterns

and abbreviations more comfortably without having

to scroll back to these pages.

chain stitch (ch)

This stitch is the basis for many crochet patterns. If

you're working in rows, your first row will be a series

of chain stitches.

Use the hook to draw the yarn through the loop (1)

and pull the loop untill tight (2). Wrap the yarn over the

hook from back to front. Pull the hook, carrying the yarn,

through the loop already on your hook (3). You have now

completed one chain stitch. Repeat these steps as indi-

cated in the pattern to create a foundation chain (4).

single crochet (sc)

Single crochet is the stitch that will be most frequently

used in this book.

Insert the hook into the next chain stitch (1) and

wrap the yarn over the hook. Pull the yarn through the

stitch (2). You will see that there are now two loops

1

2

3 4

on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook again and

draw it through both loops at once (3). You have now

completed one single crochet (4). Insert the hook into

the next chain stitch to continue the row (5).

At the end of the row (6) you need to bring the yarn

up to the correct height to work the first stitch. Make

one chain stitch (ch) (7) and turn the work (8). Start

the next single crochet in the first stitch (don't count

the turning chain as a stitch). To work into a previous

row of crochet, insert your hook under both loops of

the first stitch, as shown in the figure (9).

6 BASIC STITCHES

double crochet (dc)

Bring your yarn over the hook from back to front

before placing the hook in the stitch. Now insert your

hook in the fourth chain - without counting the loop

on the hook (1). Wrap the yarn over the hook and draw

the yarn through the chain stitch. You now have three

12

3

4

5 6

7

8

9

loops on the hook (2). Wrap the yarn over the hook

again and pull it through the first two loops on the

hook (3). You now have 2 loops on the hook. Wrap the

yarn over the hook one last time and draw it through

both loops on the hook (4). You have now completed

one double crochet. To continue bring your yarn over

the hook and insert it in the next chain stitch (5).

To start the second row, you turn the work (6). You

will need to bring the thread up to the correct height

to work the first stitch. To raise the yarn, make three

chain stitches. These count as the first double crochet

of the new row. Start the next double crochet in the

second stitch. Be sure to insert your hook under both

loops of this stitch (7).

half double crochet (hdc)

The half double crochet stitch resembles the double

crochet stitch. Bring your yarn over the hook from back

to front before placing the hook in the stitch. Now insert

your hook in the fourth chain - without counting the loop

on the hook (1). Wrap the yarn over the hook and draw

the yarn through the chain stitch. You now have three

loops on the hook (2). Wrap the yarn over the hook again

and pull it through all three loops on the hook (3). You

have completed your first half double crochet. To continue

bring your yarn over the hook and insert it in the next

chain stitch (4). To start a second row, bring your thread

to the correct height by making two chain stitches.

4

1

2

3

3

increase (inc)

To increase you need to make two single crochet

stitches in the next stitch.

decrease (dec)

Insert your hook into the next stitch (1). Wrap the yarn

over the hook and pull up a loop (2). Repeat this in the

next stitch. There are now three loops on your hook. Wrap

the yarn over the hook again and pull it through all three

loops on the hook (3). You have completed one decrease.

12

3 4

5 6

7

1

2

3 4

1 2

1

2

3

7 BASIC STITCHES

invisible decrease

The standard method of decreasing can leave a small

bump or gap. The invisible decrease is an alternative

method of decreasing which will make your decrease-

stitch look much like the other stitches in the row, so it

results in a more smooth and even crochetwork.

Insert the hook in the front loop of your first stitch (1).

Now immediately insert your hook in the front loop of

the second stitch (2). You now have three loops on your

hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook and draw it through

the first two loops on your hook (3). Wrap the yarn over

again and draw it through the two loops remaining on

your hook (4). You have now completed one invisible

decrease.

magic ring

A magic ring is ideal to start crocheting in the round. You

start by crocheting over an adjustable loop and in the end

pull the loop tight. The advantage of this method is that

there's no hole left in the middle of your starting round.

Start with the yarn crossed to form a circle (1). Draw

up a loop with your hook but don't pull it tight (2). Hold

the circle with your forefinger and thumb, and wrap the

working yarn over your index finger (3). Make one chain

stitch by wrapping the yarn over the hook and pulling it

through the loop on your hook (4). Now insert your hook

into the loop and underneath the tail. Wrap the yarn

over the hook and draw up a loop (6). Wrap the yarn

over the hook again and draw it through both loops on

your hook (7). You have now completed your first single

crochet (8). Continue to crochet until you have the re-

quired number of stitches as mentioned in the pattern.

Now grab the yarn tail and pull to draw the centre of

the ring tightly closed.

You can now begin your second round by crochet-

ing into the first stitch of the first round. You can use

stitch markers to remember where you started.

If you do not prefer this technique, you can start

each piece using the following technique: ch 2,

sc 6 times into the second chain from the hook.

Slst to join the round.

8 BASIC STITCHES

slip stitch (slst)

A slip stitch is used to move across one or more stitches

at once. Insert your hook into the next stitch. Wrap the

yarn over the hook and draw through both loops at once.

tail

working yarn

tail working yarn

back loops only (BLO) & front loops only (FLO)

When making a crochet stitch, you end up with two

loops at the top of the stitch, a front loop (towards you)

and a back loop. When asked to crochet FLO or BLO you

make the same stitch but leave one loop untouched.

1 2

3 4

12

12

3 4

last loop untill it is all the way through (1). You now

have a finished knot.

Thread the long tail through the tapestry needle and

insert your tapestry needle through the back loop of the

next stitch (2). This way the finishing knot will remain

invisible in your finished piece. You can use this piece of

yarn to continue sewing the body pieces together.

Always make sure pieces are securely attached so

that they can't be pulled off. Make small, neat stitches

and try to make them show as little as possible

Some designers leave the extremities open for sew-

ing onto the body, others sew them closed.

When open: Position the piece on the body and sew

all around it, going through the front stitches of both

the extremity and the body.

When the opening of the extremities is sewn closed

before attaching it to the body, you line up the stitches

of one side with the other side and sew through the

front loop of one side and the back loop of the other

side. Use the same color of yarn as (one of) the pieces

you want to join together.

color change

When you want to switch from one color to the next,

you work to within two stitches before a color change.

Make the next stitch as usual, but don't pull the final

loop through (1). Instead, wrap the new color of yarn

around your hook and pull it through the remaining

loops (2). You can now continue with the new color.

Tie a knot to the loose tails and leave them on the inside.

tail

working yarn

tail working yarn

fastening off and joining all parts

When you're done crocheting, cut the yarn a couple of

inches from your last stitch. Pull the yarn through the

working in rounds

Crocheting in the round can be confusing since you

form a continuous spiral. There's no clear indication of

where a new round begins and the previous one ends.

To keep track of the rounds, you can mark the end of a

round with a stitch marker or safety pin. After crochet-

ing the next round, you should end up right above your

stitch marker. Move your stitch marker at the end of

each round to keep track of where you are.

5

6

78

9

10

1 2

1 2

9 BASIC STITCHES

BASIC MATERIAL

yarn

With every pattern in this book we list the materials

used to created that amigurumi, including the spe-

cific yarn that is used. But don't feel tied to the yarn

choices, other types of cotton, acrylic or wool can be

used as a substitute.

Yarn comes in different thicknesses. The yarn thick-

ness is specified with every pattern. Much of what you

need to know is on the yarn label, but it might take a

little bit of decoding. Below we add a chart that can

help you make the right choice.

The patterns don't give the yarn quantity. The

amounts are rather small and will vary according to

how loosely or tightly you crochet. You could use some

of the remnants from other projects or start with a

new ball of yarn.

crochet hooks

Not only yarn, but hooks as well come in different

sorts and sizes. Bigger hooks make bigger stitches than

smaller ones. It is important to match the right hook

with the right type of yarn. The size of hook used is

indicated with every pattern, or can be consulted in

the chart below.

The crochetwork should be quite tight, without any

gaps through which stuffing can escape. You best use a

smaller hook than stated on the yarn to achieve this.

Hooks are usually made from aluminium or steel.

Metal hooks tend to slip between the stitches more

easily. For projects that require very thick yarn, a

wooden hook might be a comfortable alternative.

stuffing/face features

For the filling polyester fiberfill is advised. You can

purchase this at any yarn shop and it has the great

advantage that it is inexpensive, washable and non-

allergenic. Be carefull not to overstuff your animal.

Stuffing might stretch the fabric and show through.

For some patterns safety eyes are used. These are

widely available. Be alert when you apply safety eyes:

once you put the washer on you won't be able to pull it

off again. So you best make sure the post is where you

want it before attaching the washer.

Alternatively, the features can be embroidered,

which is recommended if you're crocheting for chil-

dren under the age of three. For embroidery a tapestry

needle with a rounded tip is used.

skill level

easy (*) intermediate (**) experienced (***)

Every pattern is marked with a skill level to indicate

how easy they are to make. Start with an easy pattern

and work up to the intermediate and experienced ones.

RECOMMENDED HOOK IN METRIC SIZE

NUMBER (SYMBOL)

CATEGORY NAME

UK YARN TYPE

US YARN TYPE

RECOMMENDED HOOK IN US SIZE

1 2 3 4 5 6

super fine fine light medium heavy very heavy

2,25 to 3,5mm 3,5 to 4,5mm 4,5 to 5,5mm 5,5 to 6,5mm 6,5 to 9mm 9 mm and larger

B-1 to E-4 E-4 to 7 7 to I-9 I-9 to K-10 1/2

K-10 1/2 to M-13

M-13 and larger

Fingering Sport LightWorsted

Worsted Bulky Extra Bulky

3 ply 4 ply double knitting (DK)

aran chunky super chunky

10 BASIC MATERIAL

head / body (in black yarn)

Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: inc 6 times [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]


Rnd 6-10: sc in all 30 st [30]


Rnd 12-15: sc in all 33 st [33]


Rnd 17-20: sc in all 36 st [36]

by Ana Yogui

ZICO THE TOUCAN

Skill level: **Size: 3.5 inches (9 cm) tall.

Materials:

– Light Worsted weight yarn in black,

yellow and white.

– Two 8 mm blue safety eyes

– Size G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook

– Needle for joining parts

– Fiberfill for stuffing

Now we will start to make the tail.

Rnd 1: Using FLO, sc in next 9 st, ch 9, slst on top of

first sc to form a circle.

Rnd 2: ch 1, sc in next 17 st [18]

Rnd 3: sc on top of ch 1, sc in next 17 st [18]

Rnd 4: Sc in all 18 st [18]

Rnd 5: (dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat 3 times [15]

Rnd 6: sc in all 15 st [15]

Rnd 7: (inc, sc in next 4 st) repeat 3 times [18]


Slst in next st. Fasten off and leave enough yarn to

close the tail.

bottom (in black yarn)

Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring. [6]








attach the bottom to the body.

11 ZICO THE TOUCAN

12 ZICO THE TOUCAN

white breast / face (in white yarn)


Rnd 2: 3 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 3 sc in next st,

sc in next 2 st [10]

Rnd 3: inc in next 3 st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next 3 st,


Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times.

sc in next 2 st. (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat

3 times. sc in next 2 st [22]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times.

sc in next 2 st. (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3

times. sc in next 2 st. Change to yellow yarn [28]

Rnd 6 – Rnd 8: sc in next 5 st. Change to white yarn. sc

in next 18 st. Change to yellow yarn. sc in next 5 st.

Slst in next st. Fasten off and leave enough yarn to at-

tach breast to body.

beak (start in black yarn)


Rnd 2: inc in next 2 st. Change to yellow yarn.

inc in next 2 st. Change to black yarn [8]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc in next st) repeat 2 times. Change to

yellow yarn. (sc, inc in next st) repeat 2 times.

Change to black yarn. [12]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times.

Change to yellow yarn. (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st)

repeat 2 times [16]


Rnd 6-10: sc in all 20 st. Change to black yarn. [20]



attach the beak to the head.

wings (make 2 in white yarn)

Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring. [6]



Rnd 4: inc in all 36 st [36]

Slst in next st and fasten off. Leave enough yarn to

close the wing and to attach it to the body.

assembling

– Position the breast to the body.

– Position and attach the safety eyes.

– Attach the breast to the body.

– Stuff and attach the beak. Make sure the

black part is upwards.

– Stuff the body and attach the bottom to the body.

– Stitch the tail closed.

– Fold the wings in half and stitch them closed.

– Attach the wings to the body.

by Little Muggles

WASABI THE BUNNY

SKILL LEVEL: * SIZE: approximately 8 inches (20 cm) tall to the

tip of his ears when seated.

MATERIALS:

– Worsted weight yarn in green and brown. This

example was made with Vanna’s Choice Baby in

Sweet Pea and Taupe.


– Black safety eyes (12 mm)


– Stitch marker

– Blunt end tapestry needle

– Ribbon: 3/8 inch (1 cm) wide,

about 15 inches (40 cm) long

head (in green yarn)

Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]











Rnd 12-16: sc in all 54 st [54]

Rnd 17: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) repeat 6 times [48]






Fasten off and leave a tail.

13 WASABI THE BUNNY

ears (in green yarn)











Rnd 11-13: sc in all 12 st [12]

Fasten off and leave a tail

body (in green yarn)











Rnd 13-14: sc in all 30 st [30]




foot (make 2, start in brown yarn)

Row 1: Chain 5

Row 2: Start in second chain from hook, sc in next 4 st.

Turn your piece to start the next row. [4]

Row 3: sc in next 3 st, inc in last st [5]

Put a stitch marker into the 5th stitch. This is your

starting stitch as you now continue in the round.

(Instead of turning your piece and starting a new row,

you will be crocheting in the round) There should be

10 stitches in this first round.

Rnd 1: inc in st 2, 5, 7, 10 [14]

Rnd 2: inc in st 2, 7, 10, 14 [18]

Rnd 3: inc in st 3, 8, 12, 18 [22]

Change to green yarn.


Rnd 5: sc in next 8 st, dec, sc, dec, sc, dec, sc to end [19]




Rnd 9: sc, dec, sc, dec, sc, dec, sc to end [7]

Stuff the foot (the leg itself does not need stuffing).


14 WASABI THE BUNNY

Rnd 15: dec, sc to end [6]


Fasten off and leave a tail.

arm (make 2, start in brown yarn)




Change to green yarn




Rnd 7: (sc, dec in next st) repeat 4 times [8]

At this point, stuff the tip of the arm with fiberfill as it

will become harder to do as the arm gets longer.

Rnd 8: dec, sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [6]



TAIL (in green yarn)

Rnd 1: Start 6 sc into a magic ring [6]





ASSEMBLY

– Stuff the head

– Attach the eyes (between round 11 & 12,

with 10 stitches between them) and sew

the nose with dark brown yarn.

– Attach the ears.

– Stuff the body and attach it to the head.

– Attach the arms.

– Attach the legs.

– Attach the tail (before it is completely sewn on,

stuff with a little bit if fiberfill).

– Tie a ribbon around the bunny’s neck as

you would a necktie. Snip the ends into a point.

15 WASABI THE BUNNY

Head (in red yarn)









Rnd 12: dec in next 5 st, sc in next 10 st [15]

Rnd 13-14: sc in all 15 st [15]


Stuff with fiberfill.


Rnd 17: dec, sc in next 8 st [9]


by Irene StrangeBERNARD THE FOX

SKILL LEVEL: ** SIZE: approximately 8 inches (20 cm) long

from the tip of the nose to the tail.

MATERIALS:

– Light Worsted weight yarn in deep red and

white (This sample is made in Rowan Cotton Glacé)

– Blue Embroidery Floss

– B-1 to E-4 (2,25 to 3,5 mm) hook. Choose a hook

that crochets a tight fabric, with no stuffing

showing through.

– Needle for joining parts


– Craft pipe cleaner

16 BERNARD THE FOX



Add more stuffing.


Fasten off, sew up the tip.

Ears (make 2 in red yarn)

Make a chain of 7 stitches [7]

Row 1: Start second ch from hook, sc in first st, 2 hdc in

next st, 2 dc in next 2 st, 2 hdc in next st, 3 sc in next st,

carry on along the other side of the chain, 2 hdc in next

st, 2 dc in next 2 st, 2 hdc in next st, sc in last 2 st [22]

Fasten off, leave enough tail to sew the ear to the head.

Tail (start in white yarn)


Rnd 2: sc in next 3 st, inc in next 2 st [7]




Rnd 6: Change to red yarn.

sc in next 11 st, inc in next 2 st [15]




Rnd 10: sc in next 20 st, inc in next st [22]

Rnd 11-12: sc in all 22 st [22]

Rnd 13: sc in next 18 st, dec in next 2 st [20]






Rnd 19: sc in next 12 st, dec in next st [13]









Fasten off, leave the end open to sew the tail

to the body.

Body (make in red yarn)



Rnd 3: inc in next 3 st, sc in next 9 st [15]

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 11 st [17]


Rnd 8: sc in next 3 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 10 st [15]






Rnd 13: dec in next 2 st, FLO sc in next 6 st [8]


Fasten off, use the leftover tail to sew to the head.

Legs (make 4, start in white yarn)




Rnd 4: inc, sc in next 4 st [6]

17 BERNARD THE FOX

– Embroider the nose by overlapping short stitches in a

criss-cross pattern to get a layered effect - this will make

it raised up.

– Embroider sleepy eyes on either side of the head, or

sew on vintage glass eyes for a rustic look.

Rnd 5: Change to red yarn, sc in all 6 st [6]


Rnd 8: inc, sc in next 5 st [7]


Fasten off, fold up small pieces of craft pipe cleaner and

stuff them inside the legs instead of fiberfill stuffing.

assembling

– Sew the body to the head, positioning the opening

over the first round of the head.

– Then sew the tail to the body, make sure the widest

part of the tail points down, like in the picture.

– Sew the legs to the body, test the position to check if

your Bernard can stand up.

– Sew the ears to the top of the head.

– Secure all loose ends and tuck the loose tails inside

the body. Trim off the excess.

18 BERNARD THE FOX

by Susan Morishita

DAKOTA THE DOG

Eye Patch (in brown yarn)

Rnd 1: start 6 sc in magic ring [6]


Join with slst to next st. Fasten off, leaving a long end of

yarn to later sew the eye patch to the body.

Body (in cream yarn)











Now place the plastic safety eyes. Insert one of the 9

mm safety eyes into the center of the eye patch. Secure

it to the body of the dog between rounds 6 and 7. Place

the second eye without an eye patch 6 stitches from

the first eye. You will sew the eye patch down to the

body later.

Rnd 11: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [12]

Stuff the body firmly with fiberfill.


Rnd 13: Decrease around until you can close. Fasten off

and weave the yarn ends into the body with a yarn needle.

After closing the body, sew the eye patch securely to the

body. Use a yarn needle and carefully sew around the

edges of the eye patch.

SKILL LEVEL: *SIZE: Approximately 3 inches (8 cm) tall and wide

MATERIALS:

– Worsted weight yarn in cream, brown and a

small amount of black for the nose.


– Polyester fiberfill for stuffing

– 2 plastic safety eyes size 9 mm. These

can be replaced by small buttons.

– Yarn needle

– Stitch marker

19 DAKOTA THE DOG

Muzzle (in cream yarn)

Ch 5

Rnd 1: sc in 2nd chain from hook. Sc in next 3 ch.

Continue working around to the other side of the chain.

inc in all 4 ch [12]




yarn to sew the muzzle to the body.

With you fingers, shape the muzzle into an oval shape.

One side will be more curved than the other. Lightly

stuff the muzzle with fiberfill stuffing. Place the

muzzle on the dog’s body centered below the eyes with

the curved side of the muzzle facing up. Use a yarn

needle to carefully sew the muzzle onto the body snug

up against the bottom of the eye patch.

Nose (in black yarn)

Ch 4

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook. Sc in next 2 ch [3]

Leave a long end of yarn to sew the nose on the muzzle.

Place the nose on top of the muzzle. Using a yarn needle,

carefully sew the nose down around the edges.

20 DAKOTA THE DOG

Ears (make 2 in brown yarn)


Rnd 2: (inc, sc in next st) repeat 3 times [9]


Rnd 10: hdc in next st, dc in next 4 st, hdc in next st [6]

Do not finish the round.

Join with a slst to the next st. Fasten off, leaving a long

end of yarn to sew the ears to the body.

Do not stuff the ears. Attach the ears to the body. With

round 10 of the ears facing up, sew each ear to the body

on top of the head.

Paws (make 4, 3 in cream yarn and one in brown yarn)


Rnd 2: inc 6 times [12 ]




yarn to sew the paws to the body.

Stuff the paws with fiberfill. Sew the paws to the bot-

tom of the body so that the dog will stand up evenly.

Tail (in brown yarn)



Join with a slst to the next st. Fasten off, leaving a long

end of yarn to sew the tail to the body.

Do not stuff the tail. Place the tail on the center back of

the body and sew on.

Dakota is a roly-poly little dog that will fit in the

palm of your hand. His long floppy ears fly in the

wind as he runs to you on his stumpy little feet.

This is an easy pattern for the beginning cro-

cheter. Dakota doesn't take too much yarn, It is

the perfect pattern to use up your yarn remnants.

Make a dog that looks like your

own, or a friend’s and attach a

key chain to make

the perfect gift!

21 DAKOTA THE DOG

LARGE MOUSE

head (in gray yarn)








Rnd 9: inc 6 times, sc in next 12 st [24]

Rnd 10: (sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times,


Rnd 11-15: sc in all 30 st [30]

Attach the eyes.




Stuff the head.

22 NAUGHTY LITTLE MICE

SKILL LEVEL: **SIZE: Large Mouse: 4 inches / 10 cm high.

Small Mouse: 0.75 inches / 2 cm high.

Cake: 3 inches / 8 cm high.

MATERIALS:

– Fingering or Sport yarn in grey, pink, brown,

red, blue, green and white. (in this example Nova

from the Swedish company Järbo Garn was used)

– Size B-1 or smaller (1,75 mm) crochet hook

– Polyester fiberfill stuffing

– 3 pair of black safety eyes, size 4,5 mm

– Yarn needle

by Tilda & FilurNAUGHTY LITTLE MICE

Rnd 19: dec 6 times, slst [6]

Finish off.

ear (make 2, start in pink yarn)


Rnd 2: inc 6 times, slst [12]

Finish off.

Start the next piece in gray yarn.


Rnd 2: inc 6 times, slst [12]

Rnd 3: Crochet the gray and pink parts together with

the pink part in front. Use gray yarn.

(sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times. [15]

Finish off.

body (in gray yarn)







Rnd 9: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times,


Rnd 10: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times,


Rnd 11-19: sc in all 30 st [30]




Stuff the body.


Finish off.

arm (make 2 in gray yarn)







Stuff the arm.

Rnd 21: dec in next 6 st, slst [6]

Finish off.

Leg (make 2, start in pink yarn)

Rnd 1: Ch 6, inc in second ch from hook, sc in next 3 st,

inc in last ch. Turn and continue on the other side of the

chain: sc in next 3 st, inc in last st. [12]



Rnd 4: Change to gray yarn. sc in all 12 st [24]





Stuff the leg.

Rnd 20: dec 7 times [7]


Finish off.


tail (start in pink yarn)





Rnd 6: Change to gray yarn, use double yarn. Ch 15

Finish off.

assembling the large mouse

– Sew the ears to the head. Embroider the face, (nose,

mouth and eyebrows). Use pink mouline yarn to sew

the nose at round 1 of the head. Use black mouline yarn

for the mouth and sew it under the nose over 3 rounds.

Use black mouline yarn for the eyebrows and sew them

above the eyes over 2 st.

– Join head, arms, legs and tail to the body. (See picture)

– Sew in all ends

SMALL MOUSE

head and body (in gray yarn)










Rnd 11-14: sc in all 24 st [24]

Attach the eyes.

Rnd 15-18: sc in all 24 st [24]

Rnd 19: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st] repeat 6 times [18]

Rnd 20: (sc, dec in next st) repeat 6 times. [12]

Stuff the head and body.

Rnd 21: dec 6 times, slst. [6]

Finish off.


ears (make 2, start in pink yarn)

Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a magic ring. [6]

Rnd 2: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, slst [9]

Finish off.

Start the next piece in gray yarn.


Rnd 2: (sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times. [9]

Rnd 3: Crochet the gray and pink parts together with

the pink part in front. Use gray yarn.

(sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times. [12]

Finish off.

tail (in pink yarn)




Rnd 5: dec 4 times, slst. [4]

Rnd 6: Change to gray yarn, use double yarn. Ch 15

and finish off.

assembling the small mouse

– Sew the ears to the head. Embroider the face, (nose,

mouth and eyebrows). Use pink mouline yarn to sew

the nose at round 1 of the head. Use black mouline yarn

for the mouth and sew it under the nose over 3 rounds.

Use black mouline yarn for the eyebrows and sew them

above the eyes over 2 st.

– Sew in all ends

CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH RASPBERRIES

AND BLUEBERRIES

chocolate cake (part 1) (in brown yarn)

Rnd 1: Start 6 in a magic ring [6]








Rnd 9: BLO sc in all 48 st [48]

Rnd 10-16: sc in all 48 st [48]

Rnd 17: BLO (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) 6 times [42]






Stuff part 1.


Finish off.

chocolate cake (part 2) (in brown yarn)

Continue on the next layer of the cake.

Rnd 1: Begin in round 17 of the previous part.

FLO (sc, inc in next st) repeat 24 times. [72]




Finish off.

bottom of the cake (in brown yarn)













slst [66]


slst [72]

Finish off.

cream 1 (in white yarn)

Rnd 1: Begin in Part 1, round 9, FLO 3 sc in all 48 st,

slst [144] Finish off.

cream 2 (in white yarn)

Rnd 1: Begin in Part 2, round 5, FLO 3 sc in all 72 st,

slst [216] Finish off.

assembling the chocolate cake

Crochet the Bottom round 12 and Part 2 round 14

together as follows:

Use white yarn. sc in each st around, slst [72]

Stuff before you close.

Continue crocheting in white yarn.

4 sc in all 72 st, slst. [288]

Finish off and sew in all ends.

BERRIES

raspberry (in red yarn, make 7 or as many as you wish)





Rnd 6: BLO (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) repeat 3 times [9]

Rnd 7: sc in all 9 st, slst. [9]

Finish off.

assembling the raspberry

Pull the thread from round 7 through the raspberry.

blueberry (in blue yarn, make 4 or as many as you wish)





Finish off.

leaves (in green yarn, make 4 or as many as you wish)

Rnd 1: (Ch 5, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next 2 st,

sc in next st) repeat 2 times.

Finish off.

assembling the blueberry

– Sew the blueberry to the leaves.

– Sew the raspberries and blueberries to

the chocolate cake.

– Sew in all ends.


by Josephine Wu (A Morning Cup of Jo Creations)

ROARY THE TIGER

SKILL LEVEL: *SIZE: Approximately 5 inches (13 cm) tall.

MATERIALS:

– Worsted weight yarn in orange, white, pink

and black. This model is created with Lily Sugar ‘n

Cream’s 100% cotton yarn in mango and white,

Paton’s Classic Wool in pink, and Peaches ’n Cream’s

100% cotton yarn in black.

– Size E-4 (3,50 mm) crochet hook

– Two 6 mm safety eyes with plastic washers

– fiberfill for stuffing

– Yarn needle for finishing

head (in orange yarn)







NOTE: The invisible decrease

method is used in this pattern,

abbreviated as dec. You can

find the tutorial for this stitch

in the front of the book.

27 ROARY THE TIGER










Rnd 16: Mark the first stitch of this round for later

reference. (dec, sc in next 12 st) repeat 6 times [78]




Insert the safety eyes:

Refer back to the stitch you marked in round 16. Count 4

stitches to the left of the marked stitch. Insert one safety

eye into that spot between rounds 15 and 16. Then count

19 stitches to the left of that eye and insert the other

safety eye between rounds 15 and 16. Secure the safety

eyes by fastening the washers. Continue crocheting.




Begin stuffing the head with fiberfill, and continue

stuffing as you go.







Fasten off and leave a 6 inch (15 cm) tail. Use the tail to

sew the head shut, and then hide the rest

of the tail by weaving it into the head.

muzzle (in white yarn)






Slip stitch into the next stitch, fasten off and leave a

16 inch (40 cm) tail for sewing.

ears (make 2, start in orange yarn)

Rnd 1: Leave a 6 inch (15 cm) leading tail for sewing.

Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]



Change to black yarn.

Rnd 4: sc in next 14 st [14]

Fasten off and leave a 36 inch (90 cm) tail for sewing

(and for making the tiger’s stripes).

body (in orange yarn)






Rnd 6: (dec in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [18]




Slst into the next stitch, fasten off and leave a 16 inch

(40 cm) tail for sewing. Stuff the body with fiberfill.

arms (make 2, start in white yarn)







Change to orange yarn.

Rnds 7-12: Sc in next 6 st [6]


(30 cm) tail for sewing. Stuff the paws (white portion)

with fiberfill.

28 ROARY THE TIGER

legs (make 2, start in white yarn)











Rnds 10-12: sc in next 12 st [12]


(30 cm) tail for sewing. Stuff paws (white portion) with

fiberfill.

tail (start in black yarn)




Rnds 3-9: sc in all 6 st [6]


(15 cm) tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill.

assembly

Step 1: Muzzle.

Pick up the white muzzle you crocheted. Thread the

pink yarn onto your yarn needle. Starting from the back

side of the muzzle, create a nose by inserting your needle

up through the center of round 1, then into a space be-

tween the stitches of round 4 and 5, then come back out

29 ROARY THE TIGER

through the center of round 1 and go into another space

between round 4 and 5. Repeat this motion until the

arch of your tiger’s nose spans about 9 stitches wide and

no white shows in between the pink yarn. Cut off and

hide any excess yarn on the back side of the muzzle.

Use black yarn to create a mouth in the shape of the let-

ter U. The mouth can be placed off center on top of two

stitches in round 4. Cut off and hide any excess yarn on

the back side of the muzzle.

Use the white yarn tail to sew the completed muzzle

between the tiger’s eyes. Hide the loose yarn tail when

finished.

Step 2: Ears and stripes

Using a yarn needle, attach both ears to the head. Use

the orange yarn tails to attach the orange portion of the

ears to the head, and use the black yarn tails to attach the

black portion of the ears to the head. When the ears are

attached, use the extra-long black yarn tail to create three

stripes on the left and right sides of the tiger’s head.

Step 3: Body

Center the opening of the body around round 28 of the

head (this is the bottom of the head). Sew them together.

Step 4: Arms

Align the arms vertically with the muzzle. Attach the

arms where the head meets the body, and then sew the

length of the arms to the length of the body.

Step 5: Legs

Position and sew on the legs. Make sure that the tiger

can sit properly.

Step 6: Tail

When the tiger is in the sitting position, center the tail

on its buttocks. The length of the tail should be resting

on the ground to give the tiger more base support.

30 ROARY THE TIGER

by Pepika

JOHNNY THE

MONKEY

SKILL LEVEL: ***SIZE: Approximately 6 inches (15 cm) tall

when seated.

MATERIALS:

– Sport weight yarn in brown and yellow.

– Size B-1 (2.5 mm) crochet hook


– A pair of 8 mm black eyes

– Stitch marker

– A long tapestry needle

– Sewing pins






head (in brown yarn)

Starting at the front of the head.





31 JOHNNY THE MONKEY







Rnd 11-16: sc in all 60 st [60]







Put a little bit of stuffing into the head. Continue to add

stuffing after the next two rounds so the head is firmly

stuffed when finished.




Cut the yarn and pull it through the last loop. With a

tapestry needle, weave the tail through the front loops

of the remaining 6 stitches and pull it tight to close.

Weave in the yarn end.

head patch (in yellow yarn)








sc in last 15 st [33]

Rnd 9: sc in next 5 st, (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in next st,

slst in next 5 st, (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in next st,


Rnd 10: sc in next 7 st, inc, sc in next 2 st, dec, sc, dec,

sc in next 2 st, inc, sc in last 23 st [41]

Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew to the head.

body (in brown yarn)

Starting at the top of the body.










Rnd 11-16: sc in all 35 st [35]






Add some fiberfill to the neck area and the body.

Finish stuffing after the next round.



Cut the yarn and pull it through the last loop. With a

tapestry needle, weave the tail through the front loops

of the remaining 5 stitches and pull it tight to close.

Weave in the yarn end.

ear (make 2 in yellow yarn)








Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew to the head.

arm (make 2, start in yellow yarn)





Rnd 7: dec 3 times, sc in next 9 st [12]

Change to brown yarn.


Stuff the arm.



Fasten off.

With a tapestry needle, weave the tail through the front

loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pull it tight to

close. Weave in the yarn end.

leg (make 2, start in yellow yarn)

Rnd 1: ch 6, sc in second ch from hook and in each

of next 3 ch, 3 sc in last ch from hook.

Working on the underside of the foundation chain,

sc in next 3 ch, inc in last ch [12]

Rnd 2: inc, sc in next 3 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 3 st,

inc in last 2 st [18]

Rnd 3: Sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, inc in

next st, sc in next 3 st, inc, sc in next 5 st, inc, sc in last

st [22]


Rnd 6: sc in next 6 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 2 st, dec

in next 2 st, sc in next 6 st [18]


Stuff the foot.

Change to brown yarn.



Stuff the bottom part of the leg leaving the upper

part empty. Fasten off.


loops of the remaining 7 stitches and pull it tight to close.

tail (in brown yarn)



Stuff as you go along.

Rnds 3-39: Sc in all 12 st [12]


Fasten off.


loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pull it tight to

close. Press the tail with your fingers to shape it so it’s

not straight but curved at the end.

assembling and finishing

After you made all the parts, you may want to pin them

together to see how they fit together.

Step 1: Finishing the head

– If you’re using safety eyes, attach them to the patch

before sewing it to the head. Attach them to Rnd 9 of the

patch (where you made sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc).

– Sew the patch between Rnd 7 and 8 of the head. Pin it

first to make sure it’s centered and then sew. Sew 3/4,

stuff firmly and finish sewing.

– Embroider a small semicircle for the mouth. Use

brown yarn and a tapestry needle and make it be-

tween the first and second round of the head patch

using stem stitch. For 'baby' look (like pictured here)

leave it without a mouth.

– If you're using sew-on eyes, place the eyes on round 9

of the head patch. Insert them exactly into the stitch in

which you made the cluster of sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc. Sew

them using a long needle and yellow yarn. Insert the

needle through the bottom of the patch (leaving a tail

for securing), coming out on the spot where the first eye

should be, through the eye, back through the same spot

and then coming out where the second eye should be,

through the eye and then back to the bottom of the head

patch to be secured. The needle should come out on

exactly the same place as where you inserted it.


Tie a strong knot or a surgeon’s knot. (To make a sur-

geon’s knot, make a knot as usually, but loop the yarn

one more time before tightening.) Hide the ends inside

the head.

– With yarn ends, sew the ears to the head so that the

upper edges of the ears are a little bit above the eyes.

Sew them 2 rows away from the head patch.

Step 2: Sewing the head to the body

– Experiment with the position of the head. Pin it to the

body and see which position you like best.

– Use a tapestry needle and brown yarn to sew the head

into position. Sew it to the third round of the body.

TIP: If the head is not very stable (dangles from one side to

another) double sew it to the body for more stability. You

can even sew it to a lower round of the body (round 4),

or sew one side of the head to a lower round leaning the

head slightly to that side.

Step 3: Attaching the arms

– (see picture below) With a long tapestry needle and

brown yarn, leaving a long tail for securing, insert the

needle into the top, inner side of the arm and through to

the outside. Insert the needle one stitch away from the

place it came out, back through the arm, through the

body (between round 7 and 8 of the body) and through

the second arm to the other side. On the way back, again

take the needle one stitch away from the place it came

out, through the arm and again through the body.

– Take the two yarn ends and knot them together. Use

at least 2 tight knots. Go several times through the body

with yarn ends to secure and to hide them.

Step 4: Attaching the legs

Sew the legs to the bottom of the body with a tapestry

needle and brown yarn.

Step 5: Attaching the tail

Sew round 39 of the tail to the center back bottom of the

body over round 16 - 20.


by Lilleliis (Mari-Liis Lille)

LEILA THE PONY

36 LEILA THE PONY

SKILL LEVEL: **SIZE: Approximately 10 inches (26 cm) tall

when sitting.

MATERIALS:

– Worsted Weight yarn in beige, pink and brown.

This example is crocheted with Hjertegarn Lima.

– Size E-4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook


– Safety eyes (diameter 21 mm)

– White cotton yarn for making eye patches

– Cotton fabric for embellishing the ears

– Thread for making the nose, mouth and eye-

lashes and for sewing on the fabric details

– Darning and embroidery needles

– Stitch marker

– Satin ribbon (8 inch - 20 cm)

eye patch (make 2 in white yarn)

Start 10 hdc in a magic ring. Slst in the first hdc.

Important! When pulling the round together leave

enough space for the safety eye.

Ch 3. Slst in the third st from hook. Sc in next 3 st,

2 hdc in next 2 st, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st,

hdc in next st, sc in next 2 st, slst into the first ch of

the starting chain.

Leave a long yarn tail and cut the yarn. With the help

of the darning needle pull the yarn through the top st

of the piece. Stick the eyes into the holes of the patches

and leave them aside (Do not fasten the eyes, we will

come to that part later on).

head (in beige yarn)

Crocheted from front to back.










Rnd 12-14: sc in all 48 st [48]



Rnd 17-26 sc in all 60 st [60]

Now it is time to fasten the safety eyes. Find round 18

and 19. Insert the first eye between them, then count

17 holes to the left and insert the second eye in the next

hole. Before closing the washers pull the shorter yarn

tails inside the work. Make sure the eye patches are

parallel, the angles of the eyes directed towards the nose.






37 LEILA THE PONY



Fill about half of the head. Add stuffing as the work

progresses and make sure it is filled quite heavily.





Close the hole by leading the yarn through all 6 st,

pull tight.

Find the closest hole to the angle of the eye and lead the

yarn through with the help of the darning needle. If you

wish, you may sew down the edges of the eye patch

using the yarn tail you left for it.

Also stitch the nose, mouth and eyelashes.

ear (make 2 in beige yarn)










Take the fabric. Cut out the patches with the desired

shape and sew them on the ears. Using the long yarn tail

sew the ears on the head.

body (in beige yarn)

Crocheted from the bottom up.











Rnd 11-16: sc in all 60 st [60]


38 LEILA THE PONY



Rnd 20-21: Sc in all 48 st [48]


Rnd 23-24: Sc in all 42 st [42]


Rnd 26-27: Sc in all 36 st [36]


Rnd 29-30: Sc in all 30 st [30]



Fill the body tightly with fiberfill.

Sew the head and body together.

mane (in pink yarn)

Cut a piece of yarn of about 20 inch (50 cm) long and

fold it in half. Find a proper place where you want to

start the hair and stick the hook through the holes, take

the yarn strip on the hook and bring up a loop. Now

bring the hook through the loop, take both yarn strips

on it and pull through. Moving from the front side of the

head to the back side, stick the hook through the next

hole and work the same way. Continue this method

until the mane has the preferred length. You may add

rows in width to give it more density (in this example the

mane is made in four rows).

arm (make 2, start in brown yarn )








Rnd 9: sc in next 7 st, (dec in next st, sc in next 2 st)

repeat 5 times, inc, sc in next 7 st [30]

Rnd 10: Change to beige yarn. sc in next 7 st, (dec in next

st, sc in next st) repeat 5 times, inc, sc in next 6 st [24]





Rnd 15-16: sc in all 18 st [18]

Rnd 17: sc in next 8 st, dec in next st, sc in next 8 st [17]

Rnd 18-19: sc in all 17 st [17]


Rnd 21-22: sc in all 16 st [16]

Fill the arm with fiberfill.

Do not add any stuffing hereafter.









Leave a long yarn tail for sewing and cut the yarn.

39 LEILA THE PONY

leg (make 2, start in brown yarn)








Rnd 9: sc in next 7 st, (dec in next st, sc in next 2 st)

repeat 5 times, dec in next st, sc in next 7 st [30]

Rnd 10: Change to beige yarn. sc in next 7 st, (dec in

next st, sc in next st) repeat 5 times, dec in next st, sc in

next 6 st [24]




Fill the leg and continue adding the stuffing as the work

progresses. You will have the best result if you stuff the

upper part of the leg slightly softer.


Rnd 15-16: sc in all 18 st [18]


Rnd 18-19: sc in all 17 st [17]


Rnd 21-22: sc in all 16 st [16]


40 LEILA THE PONY

Leave a long yarn tail for sewing and cut the yarn.

Sew the legs and arms to the body. If you want your

pony to sit properly, you should attach the legs more to

the front and quite spread out. Attach the arms rather

high, but not quite between the neck.

tail (in pink yarn)

Cut 10 pieces of yarn of about 10 inches (25 cm) long.

Find a proper place for the tail and make it using the

same method as with the mane.

Tie a nice satin ribbon around the tail.

Finish your pony by cutting the mane and tail.

You may try some haircut or just even out the ends.

by Little Muggles

LIL QUACK THE DUCK

SKILL LEVEL: ** SIZE: approximately 6 inches (15 cm) tall

without his hat.

MATERIALS:

– Worsted weight yarn in white, blue and

orange. This example was made with Vanna’s

Choice in white and silver blue and TLC Essentials

in Sandstone.


– Black safety eyes (9 mm)

– Polyester fiberfill for stuffing

– Stitch marker

– Blunt end tapestry needle

head (in white yarn)










Rnd 10-11: sc in all 48 st [48]


Rnd 13-14: sc in all 54 st [54]




Rnd 18: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) and repeat [36]




Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

41 LIL QUACK THE DUCK

duck bill (in orange yarn)

Row 1: chain 6

Row 2: Start in second ch from hook,

sc in next 5 st and turn. [5]


Now put a stitch marker into the very last stitch you

made. This is now stitch #1 as you continue in the

round. There should be 12 stitches in this first round.

Rnd 1-2: Sc in all 12 st [12]

Fasten off and leave a tail for attaching.

hat (Start in blue yarn)











Change to white yarn.


Weave in all yarn ends neatly.

Take your hat and poke the top in with your finger.

Flip it upside down and you will have a cute little

sailor hat. The brim will have the white edging.

body (in white yarn)


















Rnd 19-20: sc in all 18 st [18]

Fasten off

sailor shawl (main body) (Start in blue yarn)

Row 1: chain 14

Row 2-5: Start in second ch from hook,


Change to white yarn.

Row 6 sc in all 13 st [13]

Weave in all ends.


shawl (arms) (make 2 in blue yarn)

Row 1: chain 19

Row 2: Start in second ch from hook,


Row 3: sc in next 6 st, bind off and weave in.

wing (in white yarn)

Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a magic ring







foot (in orange yarn)

Row 1: chain 5

Row 2: Start in second ch from hook, sc in all 4 st.

Turn your piece. [4]


Now put a stitch marker into the last stitch you made.

This is going to be st #1 as you now continue in the

round. There should be 10 stitches in the first round.

Rnd 1: inc in stitches 2, 5, 7, 10 [14]







Rnd 8: sc in next 7 st, dec, sc, dec, sc to end [11]

Rnd 9: sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st, dec,

sc in next 2 st [9]



assembly

– Stuff the head.

– Position the eyes.

– Attach the duck bill.

– Affix the backings onto the safety eyes.

– Stuff the body.

– Attach the head to the body.

– Attach each arm of the shawl to the main body of

the shawl (the side with the shorter row faces out).

– Attach the wings.

– Attach the feet.

– Tie the shawl around the neck.


by Josephine Wu (A Morning Cup of Jo Creations)

LEVI THE BABY BEAR

44 LEVI THE BABY BEAR

SKILL LEVEL: * SIZE: approximately 4 inches (10 cm) tall.

MATERIALS:

– Worsted weight yarn in brown. For this model

Lily Sugar ‘n Cream’s 100% cotton yarn in warm

brown was used.

– E-4 (3,50 mm) crochet hook

– Two 6 mm safety eyes with plastic washers

– One 15 mm safety nose with plastic washer


– Craft felt for bear’s snout

– Fabric glue

– Yarn needle for finishing






Preparation: Cut an oval shape out of the craft felt

in the color of your choice. The oval should be about

1 inch (2,5cm) tall and 1.5 inches (4 cm) long. Then,

holding the oval so that the length is horizontal, cut

a tiny slit right above the middle of the oval to insert

the safety nose. Do not fasten the washer until in-

structed to do so.














Rnd 13: dec, sc in next 9 st, dec, sc,

Use a stitch marker to mark the space between the

last two stitches you just made (this will be the

location of the nose).

sc in next 8 st, (dec, sc in next 9 st) repeat 4 times [60]




Work on face: Insert the 15 mm nose into the spot

marked in round 13, making sure that the nose is

inserted between round 13 & 14. From the right-hand

edge of the snout, count 3 sts to the right. Insert the

eye in the space above the third st (between round 12

& 13). Place the left eye by counting 3 st to the left of

the left-hand edge of the snout, and then check that

both eyes are evenly spaced from the nose. Once satis-

fied with the placement, make sure the felt pieces are

in place before fastening the washers. Secure the eyes

and nose by fastening the washers.

Continue crocheting the head.







Fasten off and leave a 6 inch (15 cm) tail. Use the tail to

sew the head shut, and then hide the rest of the tail in the

head. Use fabric glue to fasten the felt snout in place.

ears (make 2 in brown yarn)





Fasten off and leave a 12 inch (30 cm) tail. The ears do

not need to be stuffed. Use the tail to sew the ears to

the head and then hide the rest of the tail in the head.

body (in brown yarn)











Fasten off and leave a 12 inch (30 cm) tail for sewing.

Stuff the body with fiberfill. Position and sew the

body to the head, centering the open portion of the

body around round 22 of the head.

arms (make 2 in brown yarn)






The arms do not need to be stuffed. Sew the arms shut,

then position and sew the arms to each side of the body.

legs (make 2 in brown yarn)








Rnd 8&9: sc in all 12 st [12]


Stuff the legs with fiberfill. Position and sew the legs

to the body. Make sure the legs are sewn on so that

the bear can sit without falling over.

bear tail (in brown yarn)



Sew the tail onto the back of the body.

assembly

All pieces should be securely sewn together. Hide all

loose yarn tails by weaving them inside the body.


by Pii_Chii

EDUARDO THE DONKEY

SKILL LEVEL: ** SIZE: approximately 7.5 inches (19 cm) to the tip

of his ears.

MATERIALS:

– Light Worsted weight yarn in grey, ecru, black,

light green, dark green, brown and red.

– Fuzzy black yarn

– 12 mm plastic safety eyes


– Size C (3 mm) crochet hook

– Tapestry needle

– Optional: two marbles

head (start in ecru yarn)

Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook [6]






Change to gray yarn.

Rnd 11: sc in next 12 st, inc in next 6 st,


47 EDUARDO THE DONKEY






Rnd 17-20: sc in all 60 st [60]

Attach the eyes between round 15 and 16 with an

interspace of 19 st.





Rnd 25-26: sc in all 42 st [42]





Stuff the head




Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sew two nostrils with black yarn at the height of

round 4 with an interspace of 6 st.

ears (make 2 in gray yarn)

Rnd 1: ch 2, 5 sc in second ch from hook [5]

Rnd 2: (sc, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in last st [7]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, sc in last st [10]









Rnd 14-15: sc in all 12 st [12]

Fasten off. Don’t stuff the ears and sew them at the

height of round 21 of the head with an interspace of 12 st.

body (start in gray yarn)

Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in next ch from hook [6]









Rnd 11-17: sc in all 48 st [48]

Change color. Continue in stripe pattern starting

with dark green. For a stripe pattern crochet 2 rounds


in dark green (dark), followed by 2 rounds in light

green (light).

Rnd 18-19: (dark) sc in all 48 st [48]

Rnd 20-21: (light) sc in all 48 st [48]

Rnd 22-23: (dark) sc in all 48 st [48]

Rnd 24: (light) sc in all 48 st [48]

Rnd 25: (light) (sc 6, dec in next st) repeat 6 times [42]

Rnd 26-27: (dark) Sc in all 42 st [42]

Rnd 28: (light) (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st)

repeat 6 times [36]

Rnd 29: (light) (sc in next 4 st, dec in next st)

repeat 6 times [30]

Rnd 30: (dark) (sc in next 3 st, dec in next st)

repeat 6 times [24]

Stuff the body.

Rnd 31: (dark) (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st)

repeat 6 times [18]

Rnd 32: (light) (sc, dec in next st) repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 33: (light) dec 6 times [6]

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Optional: crochet an edge of sc on the colour changes.

This way it will look more like he’s actually wearing pants.

neck (in gray yarn)

Rnd 1: ch 30, join to make a ring with a slst

Rnd 2: sc in all 30 st on the ring. Be careful not to

twist the stitches [30]


Fasten off. First you sew the neck onto the body,

between round 4 and 15. After this you attach the

head onto the neck. Stuff the neck at the last moment

before closing the gap. Make sure the neck is firmly

stuffed.

legs (make 4, start in black yarn)

Al four legs are the same. Only the hind legs have an extra

color change so it looks like Eduardo is wearing pants.






Rnd 5: BLO (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) repeat

6 times [18]


Change to gray yarn.



FOR HIND LEGS ONLY:

Change color continue with dark green.

Rnd 12-13: sc in all 16 st [16]

Fasten off. To make sure Eduardo stands up, put a

marble in each hind leg. Stuff the legs firmly. Attach

the legs under the body so that Eduardo can stand up.

mane (in fuzzy black yarn)

Row 1: ch 5. Turn your work

Row 2: ch 1, start in the second ch from hook.

sc in next 5 st

Repeat this last row until your piece measures 5 inch

(12 cm). Attach it so that it starts between the ears

and ends just before the color changes of the body.

hat (in brown yarn)




Rnd 4: BLO (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) repeat

2 times [16]




Fasten off. Stuff the hat lightly and sew the hat in

place between the ears on top of the head. Sew some

red yarn around the base of the hat.

tail (in grey yarn)

Rnd 1: ch 6. Fasten off. Tie small pieces of fuzzy black

yarn in the last ch. Sew the tail in place onto the last

row of the body.


by Airali Handmade

RECO THE PIG

SKILL LEVEL: *** SIZE: approximately 4.5 inches (12 cm) tall.

MATERIALS:

– Sport weight yarn in pink and blue.

– Size B-1 (2,5 mm) crochet hook

– Black yarn

– Beads (or safety eyes) size 5 mm

– 2 decorative buttons size 12 mm (0,5 inch)


head (in pink yarn)










Rnd 14-16: sc in all 48 st [48]






51 RECO THE PIG


Fill the head.

Rnd 23: dec 6 times.

Leave a 4 inch (10 cm) tail and finish off.

With black yarn sew the eyes between round

13 and 14 spaced by 7 stitches.

Sew the eyebrows at round 11. (length 3 stitches).

legs and body (in pink yarn)

Start with the first leg.




Rnd 4/8: sc in all 15 st [15].

Create a second leg just like the first. Don’t cut the

thread, instead join the two legs with a slst and con-

tinue working the body.

Rnd 9-11: 1 sc in each st [30]


Rnd 13-17: sc in all 36 st [36]






Fill the body and legs. Leave a tail of 8 inch (20cm)

and sew the body to the head.

arms (make 2 in pink yarn)




Fill the arms. Leave a tail of 6 inch (15cm) and sew the

limbs between round 15 and 18 of the body.

52 RECO THE PIG

ears (make 2 in pink yarn)

Ch5. sc and hdc in second chain from hook. 3 dc in

next st. hdc and sc in next st. Slst in the last st, leave

a 4 inch (10cm) tail and sew the ears between round 6

and 8 of the head.

muzzle (in pink yarn)




Rnd 4-5: sc in all 15 st [15].

Leave a tail of 6 inch (15cm) and sew the muzzle

between round 15 and 19 of the head.

dungarees (in blue yarn)

Begin with trousers legs (make 2).

Rnd 1: Start 18 ch, slst in first chain. Work 18 sc

around and continue to work in a spiral.Rnd 2-3: sc in all 18 st [18].

Make a second piece. At the end of the second leg

don’t cut the thread, join the trousers legs with a slst

and continue working the body of the dungaree.




Rnd 10: sc in next 18 st and begin to create the flap

of the dungaree continuing with sc in next 9 st. Stop

working in a continuous spiral, start working in rows.

Turn the work and repeat (sc in next 9 st) for 3 rows.

Begin the first shoulder strap:

Ch 19, attach with a slst on the 36th st of round 9.

sc in next 18 ch. When returned to the front of the

dungaree, sc in 9 st on the flap of the dungaree.

Begin the second shoulder strap:

Ch 19, attach with a slst on the 6th st of round 9.

sc in next 18 ch. Leave a tail of 6 in (15 cm) to attach

the shoulder strap to the dungaree and sew the

buttons.

53 RECO THE PIG

by FootloosefriendMORTON THE MOOSE

54 MORTON THE MOOSE

SKILL LEVEL: * SIZE: approximately 8 inches (20 cm) tall.

MATERIALS: – worsted weight yarn in dark brown, light

brown and black

– Size F (3,75 mm) crochet hook

– 12 mm safety eyes

– Yarn needle

– Pipe Cleaners are optional

eyes (make 2 in dark brown yarn)


Rnd 2: inc 3 times [6] (not a complete round)

Tie off, leave a tail for attaching to the head.

Attach eyes through the middle of the loop.

Attach to the body before you finish stuffing it.

body (in dark brown yarn)













Rnd 19-21: sc in all 36 st [36]





Rnd 26-30: sc in all 54 st [54]






Rnd 36-42: sc in all 78 st [78]





Begin stuffing and stuff as you go.







Rnd 53: (sc in next st, dec in next st) repeat 6 times [12]


Finish stuffing and tie off. Weave in the end.

nose (in dark brown yarn)








Rnd 11-12: sc in all 24 st [24]

Tie off, stuff and leave a tail for attaching to the head.

Once you have attached the nose to the head,

embroider the nostrils on with the black yarn.

mouth (in dark brown yarn)






Tie off and leave a tail for attachment.

Fold the mouth in half and sew it underneath the nose.

ear (make 2 in dark brown yarn)








Tie off. Leave a tail for attaching to the body.

antler base: (make 2 in light brown yarn)

The antlers are made in parts.







Tie off and leave a tail for attaching to the body.

Attach just above the ears.

antler edges (make 8, 4 for each antler base)


55 MORTON THE MOOSE




Tie off and leave a tail for attaching to the antler base.

When attaching the edges, fold the edge in half and

sew them to the base.

arms (make 2, start in black yarn)




Rnd 4-5 : sc in all 18 st [18]

Switch to dark brown yarn.



Rnd 10-12: sc in all 12 st [12]



Stuff lightly and tie off. Leave a tail for attachment.

legs (make 2, start in black yarn)








Switch to dark brown yarn.


Tie off and leave a tail for attachment. Stuff and

attach towards the bottom of the body.

belly (in light brown yarn)









Tie off and sew to the body in between the legs.

56 MORTON THE MOOSE

by Sarsel

TARATHE CAT

SKILL LEVEL: *** SIZE: approximately 8.5 inches (21,5 cm) tall.

MATERIALS: – worsted weight yarn in dark brown, purple,

pink, green and orange. In the example Vanna's

Choice in taupe, dusty purple, rose, sweet pea and

terra cotta was used

– Size F (3.75 mm) and Size H (4.25 mm) crochet

hooks

– Embroidery thread

– 15 mm plastic safety eyes

– Buttons and embellishments (optional)

– Polyester stuffing

– Stitch markers

– Straight pins

– Yarn needle

– One long, thin knitting needle (approximately

size 5) and one thick knitting needle (approxi-

mately size 10), optional but recommended




Rnd 3: (inc, sc in next st) repeat 6 times. [18]








57 TARA THE CAT





Rnd 15-16: sc in all 48 st [48]




Add the eyes and embroider the facial features before

continuing. In this example the eyes are placed half-

way down the head, about 14 rounds from the top, and

spaced approximately 12 stitches apart. If the stitches

in the head are too small for the posts of the safety eyes

to fit through, you can use your thick knitting needle to

stretch out the stitches. Embroider the nose and mouth

according to the diagram.








Rnd 10-16: sc in all 10 st [10]

When you finish the first leg, fasten off. You do not

need to leave a long tail for sewing. When you finish

the second leg, do not fasten off. Remove your hook

from the loop.

Merging the legs:

Hold the legs upright with the feet facing away from

you, the second leg (still attached to the yarn) on the

left, and the first leg on the right. You may pin the legs

together if it helps them stay in place.

Where the 2 legs touch in the center, re-insert your

hook, from right to left, into one stitch in each leg, so

your hook is in both legs. Pick up the dropped loop on

your hook and pull it back, from left to right, through

both legs. Yarn over and pull through once.

Continue to crochet around the outside of the left

leg, then proceed to the right, treating both legs like

a single piece of crochet. Stop when you've crocheted

around both legs once. You should end up with 20 sc.

If you have less or more than 20, go back and see if you

missed any stitches, or made too many.

You're ready to start the body, but before you continue

you need to place your stitch marker where you'll be

starting your rounds from now on. Place your marker

in the middle back of the body, where you just left

off from the previous round. This placement is very

important, since the increases and decreases in the

later rounds will shape the front of the body. As you

work up your rounds, your stitch marker may migrate





Stuff the head generously, putting more stuffing at the

bottom of the head to give it its shape. Fasten off and

leave a long tail for sewing.

legs (make 2 in brown yarn)

Stuff the legs as you go, putting more stuffing at the

bottom to give the foot its shape.


58 TARA THE CAT

a bit off-center. If this happens, just move your stitch

marker back to the center.

body (continued from legs in brown yarn)


Rnd 2: sc in next 8 st, inc in next 4 st, sc in next 8 st [24]


Rnd 6: sc in next 5 st, dec, sc, dec in next 4 st, sc, dec,







Fasten off and stuff the body generously.

arms (make 2 in brown yarn)




Rnd 5: hdc 5 into first stitch. After your 5th hdc,

remove your hook from the loop, re-insert it into the

first hdc, grab the loop you just dropped and pull it

through the first stitch, then yarn over and pull through

both. This is the thumb. Sc in each st for the rest

of the round.

Rnd 6: sc in all 12 st. The thumb has a tendency to hide

one of the stitches, so make sure you have 12 st at the

end of your round instead of 11. [12]

Rnd 7: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 4 times. [8]


Stuff the arms more at the bottom and put very little (if

any) stuffing at the top. Pinch the sides together so the

tops of the arms are flat.

ears (make 2 in brown yarn)










Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Your finished

ear will look like a cone; pinch the sides together so the

ear is flat. The ears are not stuffed.

59 TARA THE CAT

tail (in brown yarn)


Sc in each st upwards, working until the tail is as long as

desired. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

assembling

I highly recommend using a long, thin knitting needle

to "skewer" the head and the body together, to make

assembling the two pieces easier. It keeps everything

in place and prevents things from moving around too

much. As you stitch the head to the body, you may want

to add a little bit of stuffing to the neck while you work,

to keep it from becoming too floppy.

Experiment with the placement of the ears, arms and

tail by pinning them on before stitching them on per-

manently.

CLOTHING

dress (in purple yarn)

Tara's dress is made of one main piece (which wraps

around the body and meets in the back) and two

sleeves. Due to variations in yarn weight and tension,

the size of your finished amigurumi may vary slightly,

which means the main piece of the dress may need to

be slightly larger or smaller in order to wrap around

your finished doll.

When making the main piece of the dress, you do

not have to follow my instructions exactly; it is more

important to make sure that the dress fits your doll,

which may require you to increase or decrease the

number of stitches. Don't worry: it doesn't have to be

perfect!

Main Piece:

Row 1: (ch 3, dc in third ch from hook) repeat until

you have created a chain that is long enough to wrap

around the widest part of your cat's body. This is the

bottom of the dress. I repeat (ch 3, dc in third chain

from hook) 7 times; depending on the size of your

amigurumi, you may need to repeat it less or more.

Row 2: ch 1 and turn; do not work into the dc stitches

that you just made. Instead, sc into the original

foundation chain. This is a little tricky, since there

are no definitive stitches or v's to insert your hook

into; just sc across as best you can. I ended up with

21 sc stitches across. Remember, the number of your

60 TARA THE CAT

stitches will probably vary; don't be alarmed if you

end up with less or more.

Row 3: ch 1 and turn. sc in each st across.

What you do in the following rows will depend on

the size of your doll. Continue to sc across your rows,

occasionally checking the fit of the dress by wrapping

it around your doll. If the two ends meet in the back,

then continue to sc evenly across the row. If the two

ends overlap and the dress is too big, space out 2 or 3

decreases evenly across your current row to reduce the

number of stitches.

Continue this for about 7 or 8 rows, or until the dress

is as long as you'd like it to be. You should end up with

a flat piece that wraps comfortably around your doll

and meets in the back. Fasten off and leave a long tail,

then set aside.

Sleeves: (make 2)

When creating your slipknot, leave a long tail.

Row 1: Ch 11.

Row 2: Turn, sc in all 10 st, starting in the second ch

from hook.

Row 3: Turn, sc in all 10 st, starting in the second ch

from hook.

When you are done making each sleeve, use your

yarn needle and pull 1 of the 2 tails through to the

opposite side of the sleeve, so both tails are on the

same side of the piece. Attach the sleeves to the top

row of the dress. Slip your cat's arms through the

sleeves to put on the dress. Using the long tail you

left after finishing the main part of the dress, stitch

the back of the dress shut.

headband strap (in green yarn)

Row 1: Make a chain long enough to wrap around your

cat's head, usually around 40 stitches. Make a turning

chain of 3.

Row 2: dc across your foundation chain. Fasten off and

sew the ends together to create a circle.

headband flower (in orange yarn)

Row 1: Start 10 hdc in a magic ring [10]

Row 2: (hdc 5 into next hdc, slst in next hdc) repeat 5

times.

Fasten off and sew to the headband.

shoes (in pink yarn)

Use a Size H (4.25 mm) hook. If you usually crochet

with tight tension, loosen your tension while making

the shoes.



Rnd 3: (inc, sc in next st) repeat 6 times. [18]


Rnd 5: sc in next 5 st, dec in next 4 st, sc in next 5 st. [14]

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 st, ch 6 and skip the next 6 st,

re-insert hook and sc in next 4 st.

Rnd 7: sc around, working into the chain you made in

the previous round.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Because you used a larger

hook, the shoes should be slightly bigger than the doll's

feet, and will fit snugly.

61 TARA THE CAT

by Airali Handmade

62 SARTÙ THE LEMUR

SKILL LEVEL: ** SIZE: approximately 6.5 inches (16,5 cm) tall.

MATERIALS: – Sport weight cotton yarn in brown and olive.

– Size B-1 (2,5 mm) crochet hook

– Mustard Yellow and white wool

– safety eyes (9 mm/0.4 inch)

– brown felt

– pipe cleaners

– fiberfill for stuffing

head (in olive yarn)



Rnd 3: (inc, sc in next st) repeat 3 times, sc in last 3 st [12]

Rnd 4: (inc, sc in next 2 st) repeat 3 times,



Rnd 6: (inc, sc in next 3 st) repeat 3 times,





SARTÙ THE LEMUR

Rnd 10-16: sc in all 30 st [30]

Place the eyes and felt shapes between round 8 and 9

spaced by 8 stitches.




Fill the head.

Rnd 20: dec 6 times. Leave a 4 inch (10 cm) tail

and finish off.

– Sew the nose with long stitches between the magic

ring and round 2 using brown yarn.

– Model the face tightening a thread of yarn between

the eyes under the felt shape.

– Sew the mouth with backstitch between round 6

and 7 of the head.

body (in olive yarn)







Rnd 11: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 2 times,


Rnd 12: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 2 times,




Rnd 15-16: sc in all 24 st [24]


63 SARTÙ THE LEMUR

Rnd 18-19: sc in all 20 st [20]



Rnd 22: (dec, sc in next 6 st) repeat 2 times,

finish with a slst [14]

Fill the body. Leave a tail of 6 inch (15 cm) and sew the

body between round 12 and 15 of the head.

arms (make 2 in olive yarn)



Insert a pipe cleaner in the arms. Leave a tail of 6 inch

(15 cm) and sew the limbs at round 19 of the body.







Insert a pipe cleaner in the legs. Leave a tail of 6 inch

(15 cm) and sew the limbs to the body.

feet (make 2 in brown yarn)

Crocheting in rows.

Row 1: 3 ch, start in second ch from the hook,

sc in next 2 ch, make a turning ch [2]

Row 2: sc, inc in next st, ch 1 [3]

Row 3: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, ch 1 [4]

Row 4: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in last st [5]

Row 5: (ch 3, slst in second and third ch from the hook,

slst in next st) repeat 5 times

Leave a tail of 4 inch (10 cm) and sew.

ears (make 2 in olive yarn)

Crocheting in rows.

Row 1: start 3 sc in a magic ring [3]

Row 2: inc 3 times [6]

Row 3: inc 6 times [12]

Work the inside of the ear with wool thread. Repeat

round 1 with mustard yarn and round two with white

yarn. Comb with a wire brush to realize a fur effect.

tail (start in mustard yellow yarn)

The tail's colour will change seval times and is

indicated for each round.

Rnd 1: (mustard yellow) Start 4 sc in a magic ring [4]

Rnd 2: (mustard yellow) sc in all 5 st [5].

Rnd 3: (mustard yellow) (inc, sc in next st)

repeat 2 times [6]

Rnd 4: (white) sc in all 6 st [6]

Rnd 5: (white) (inc, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [8]

Rnd 6-7: (Mustard yellow) sc in all 8 st [8]


hands (make 2 in brown yarn)


Rnd 2: (3 ch, slst in second and third ch from the hook,

slst in next sc) repeat 5 times

Leave a tail of 4 inch (10 cm) and sew.

legs (make 2 in olive yarn)



64 SARTÙ THE LEMUR


Rnd 10-11: (mustard yellow) sc in all 10 st [10]

Rnd 12-13: (white) sc in all 10 st [10]








Rnd 24-25: (white) sc in all 14 st [14]

Rnd 26-28: (mustard yellow) sc in next 13 st,

slst in next st [14]

Leave a tail of 6 inch (15 cm) and comb with a wire

brush to realize a fur effect. Sew the tail between round

5 and 10 of the body.

65 SARTÙ THE LEMUR

This book was created by:

joke vermeiren - Belgium - who handles amigurumipatterns.net

and compiled this book with care. Ask her anything through

[email protected]

ana yogui - United Kingdom - who feels crocheting allows your

imagination to take shape with great challenges but no limits.

– www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/MysteriousCats/

little muggles - United States - who has never been great at

following patterns and so started creating her own 100% original

dolls, learning something new with each one she creates.

– www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/Little-Muggles/

irene strange - United Kingdom - is a graphic designer and amigu-

rumi-maker with a ball of yarn and a few crochet hooks as permanent

handbag residents. What was first a quick fix birthday gift for a friend

fast became her crochet obsession...

– www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/Irene-Strange/

susan morishita - United States - fell in love...with yarn.

Walking into a yarn store makes her heart beat faster. And so she

started crocheting and now can't seem to stop.

– www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/Susan-Morishita/

tilda & filur - Sweden - loves everything cute and has been

crocheting since her grandma taught her how to when she was young.

– www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/Tilda-and-Filur/

josephine wu - United States - treasures the journey, enjoys the

little things in life, and embraces the ability to connect and inspire

through her amigurumi.

– www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/A-Morning-Cup-of-Jo-Creations/

pepika - Bosnia Herzegovina - wanted to make something unique

and special for her newborn daughter so she turned to handicrafts.

She liked the proccess so much that her fascination with amigurumi

turned from hobby to passion.

– www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/Pepika/

lilleliis - Estonia - loves working with different yarns and adding

special details like pieces of fabric, buttons or lace.

– www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/lilleliis/

pii_chii - The Netherlands - discovered amigurumi a little while ago

and is already making the most amazing designs.

– www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/Pii_Chii/

airali handmade - Italy - spends several hours of the day with a

crochet hook and yarn in her hands.

– www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/airali-handmade/

footloosefriend - United States - is an animal lover, biologist,

and science teacher by nature. She love to sew and crochet, and the

creatures she creates combine all of these.

– www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/Footloosefriend/

sarsel - United States - studies illustration, which shows in her

cute designs. Amigurumi helps her deal with stress and can be a

lifesaver sometimes.

– www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/sarsel/

A special thank you to the 12 designers who joined me in this adven-

ture, to Echtstudio for helpful advise and professional assistance

in the preparation of the basic stitches, to Karen Khoo for suggest-

ing a great book title, to Bruno for his enthusiastic backing and his

skills with numbers, to printing house Newgoff for their care, to all

funders of my book campaign for their support.

66 CREDITS

http://www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/MysteriousCats/

http://www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/Little-Muggles/

http://www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/Irene-Strange/

http://www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/Susan-Morishita/

http://www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/Tilda-and-Filur/

http://www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/A-Morning-Cup-of-Jo-Creations/

http://www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/Pepika/

http://www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/lilleliis/

http://www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/Pii_Chii/

http://www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/airali-handmade/

http://www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/Footloosefriend/

http://www.amigurumipatterns.net/shop/sarsel/

http://www.echtstudio.nl

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