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ZR-7/s Oil and Filter Change/Lube Job

List of items and tools needed:

1. Oil Filter

2. Oil (4 Quarts)

3. 6 x 12 piece of aluminum foil

4. Latex/Rubber Gloves (Keeps the hands clean)

5. Couple of clean rags

6. Some type of drain pan (needs to hold at least 4-quarts)

7. Grease Gun with 12 to 18 flexible hose

8. Some good quality Moly-Grease for the Grease Gun

9. 3/8 Ratchet

10. 17 mm socket11. Torque Wrench

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7. Remove the drain bolt first. Remember, Righty-tighty, Lefty-

loosey. Be careful, as the oil make be a little hot coming out. DO

NOT LOSE THE DRAIN BOLT! You need this part! Set it aside in

a secure place.

8. After the old oil has drained, remove the filter bolt. Youll

notice that once you start to loosen the bolt, the whole filter plate willturn with the bolt. At this point, you can just spin it by hand till it

drops. Turn the filter assembly over and let the oil drain out.

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9. Gently remove the filter from the bolt using a turning motion.

Do not lose the spring that will fall out. Leave the bolt and base plate

together. Set these parts aside in a secure place.

10. Clean and wipe down all of the loose parts with a clean lint free

rag. I use fresh oil to coat all of the parts before reassembly. Checkyour O-rings for any nicks or cuts, and replace if needed. I have yet

to replace the original ones, just be careful when wiping them down.

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Reassembly:

1. Slip the cup like part over the filter/base plate assembly. Then

slip the spring over the bolt. Now gently spin the new filter onto the

bolt. Be careful not to pop out the rubber grommets on the filter.

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2. Take the reassembled filter assembly and put it back in place

under the engine. Be careful not to cross thread the bolt and DO NOT

OVER TIGHTEN!

(Filter Bolt Torque: 20 N-m { 2.0 kg-m, 14 ft-lb})

If you do not have a torque wrench, finger tighten the filter assembly

and just barely tighten up with a wrench or ratchet/socket.

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3. Replace the drain bolt, make sure you check the crush washer

for damage and lightly coat the bolt/washer with oil. Once again, do

not over tighten.

(Drain Bolt Torque: 29 N-m { 3.0 kg-m, 22 ft-lb})

Finger tight and just notch it up a bit with the ratchet/socket if you

dont have a torque wrench.

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4. Remove drain pan and aluminum foil. Nows a good time to hit

the three zerk fittings on the rear suspension with the grease gun.

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Wipe off any excess oil and grease from the bottom of the bike.

5. Add three quarts of oil at the filler opening on the right side of

the engine. Close up the filler cap and let the oil settle for a good 15-

minutes. Fire up the bike for about 5-minutes, shut it down and let the

oil settle. Look for leaks under the crankcase and check you levelwindow. DO NOT OVERFILL! You want the oil to be right in the

middle of the marks. I find that if the level is closer to the top fill line,

you end up with oil in the air filter box from blow back.

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There you have it people! Now, get out and ride or stay home and work on

that six-pack!

DISCLAIMER: I am not a professional mechanic, nor claim to be. I am

not responsible for any problems resulting from this tutorial. Basically, ifyou screw it up, dont blame me! Between the official Owners Manual and

a Service Manual, you will find everything you heart desires. I have just

tried to put things together so a simple person like myself can do this

without spending a fortune at the shop. Remember, this motor is mostly

made up of alloys and aluminum. DONT OVER TORQUE THE

FRIGGIN BOLTS!