aoi-april_1-15-2017.pdf - Apparel Resources

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8 Apparel Online India | APRIL 1-15, 2017 | www.apparelresources.com

World Wrap

FFT Trends

Fashion Business

CONTENT Vol. XX ISSUE 1 APRIL 1-15, 2017

UK consumer’s spending to reduce in coming years Though the initial growth figures for 2017 show signs of revival for the UK economy, a weaker sterling and higher inflation are expected to dent it, claim economists…p14

What’s New in The Yarn/Textile/Knit Collections 2018

SUNNY SIDE UP! Top 10 Trends from Resort 2017 Collections p36

30

SustainabilitySustainable Apparel Coalition: Standardized approach with over 15,000 assessments p18

Yarn UpdateIndian spinning industry takes an innovative shift from basic yarn to specialized yarn production p22

H2FEast India Company offering qualitative designs from across the country

28

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The first few months of the year usually go in a whirl of activity with so many events happening in India and abroad. Everyone wants to set the tempo for the year, whether they are technology providers, textile companies or garment manufacturers. Trends are declared, and concerns are discussed.

Moving from one event to the other, one thing that is very obvious is that the textile/apparel business is not what it was even five years ago…, the dynamics are changing so fast that sometimes it becomes difficult to keep track. Concepts that were seemingly well defined are taking on new dimensions and fresh thoughts are taking shape.

Every player in the value chain is striving to be more competitive and to add value. Being good at your job is no longer ‘good enough’. Everyone is looking for that ‘something extra’ and this has become critical because it is the only way to rise above the ‘price race’.

If technology providers are shifting focus to smaller players and domestic market with automated options, textile companies are increasing their attention on product development; the garment exporters too are juggling between balancing price expectations and innovative offerings.

Ruling all these are the bigger concerns of sustainability, ethical practices and trade alliances. With TPP practically gone, India is looking to consolidate its position in South East Asia, and though each country has its own strengths, no one can deny that competition does exist.

While the industry has in the past few years been pushing for an FTA with the European Union, new directions suggest that India should start negotiating with the UK, now outside the EU for trade alliances. But not everyone is convinced that this is the right direction… Of course a lot of debate is required before embarking on the route, but keeping options open and being flexible to new ways is very important.

As India goes through the grind of a new dawn with changes happening on all fronts, the industry also needs to think differently… Who would have imagined that the demonetisation would not only be implemented, but actually bring about a digital revolution!

I firmly believe that the only people who can bring in the change are the Generation Next… AEPC has taken a good step with its ‘Progen’ initiative, but it is only a beginning. The give and take has to be mutual and meaningful. More such initiatives are required to shake the industry out of its slumber… I was a bit worried when I met a few exporters at some events and found them demotivated and directionless.

There is still much depth in the garment industry to explore, but what is needed is a determination to work around the challenges and constraints. More forums need to be created and ideas have to move freely between stakeholders. Sitting in our individual ‘wells’ is not going to help… We need to come out and discuss the way forward… The time has come to treat our fellow industry players as partners and colleagues, and not competitors.

We all have similar concerns, fears and challenges… Let us share, find solutions and grow together as an industry and nation!

FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’s DESK… EDITORIAL TEAMEDITOR-IN-CHIEF Deepak Mohindra

EDITOR Ila Saxena

COPY EDITOR Veereshwar Sobti

ASST. COPY EDITOR Sahil Sehgal

ASST. EDITOR-NEWS Dheeraj Tagra

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ASST. EDITOR - FASHION Anjori Grover Vasesi

SR. CORRESPONDENT-FASHION Kalita Lamba

SR. EXECUTIVE-ADVERTISING D K Chugh

CREATIVE TEAM Raj Kumar Chahal Peeush Jauhari Satyapal Bisht Deepak Panwar

PHOTO EDITOR Himanshu Kumar

OPERATION DIRECTOR Mayank Mohindra

PUBLISHER & MANAGING DIRECTOR Renu Mohindra

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The 59th edition of India International Garment Fair (IIGF) which was scheduled to take place from 17-19July in New Delhi has now been shifted to Gandhinagar (Gujarat) under the ‘Textiles India 2017’ initiative.Ministry of Textiles is doing this event simultaneously with the Textile India Conclave, and the AEPC hasassured that the best possible subsidy will be given to exhibitors.Being an apparel exporter, how do you see this decision, especially when some years ago Tex-TrendsIndia event could not survive with the same vision and support of all EPCs.

Q-and-A

Satish Kumar Thukral, Director, Kichwamaji Exporters, New Delhi

I wish a great success to this new event, Textiles India 2017, as its success will directly benefit the entire Indian garment and textile industry. But I feel that this event will affect the buyers count decidedly, because for most buyers, reaching Delhi is a much easier option compared to Gandhinagar, especially for the buyers of Third World countries like Uruguay, Brazil, etc. and the same is for Indian exporters (exhibitors). It will indeed be a matter of concern for them to reach Gandhinagar. I think it will fascinate some Indian exporters to participate in Hong Kong Fashion Week which is just a week after this Indian event. However, we are going to take part in this fair as we are participating in India only.

I would like to add that we still hope for the best, as we believe that this event is Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s push. As of now, we have only got formal information by AEPC, but we need a clear commitment from them regarding the buyers’ footfall. The council should do an analysis about the grants being given to buyers and their further results. Hence, this is totally a matter of wait and watch. Time will tell what is going to happen.

Sandeep Bhojani, Director, Krypthm Tradelink Llp, Surat

As far as our organization is concerned, this shift is beneficial for us as we are based in Gujarat. Therefore, this time, we can perform far better in terms of attending more buyers, having sufficient amount of time for preparations and further displaying more product lines with much ease. Earlier, we had to move our collection and team from Surat to Delhi which was like a hurdle and time taking too. I think the Textiles India 2017, which is going to happen in Gujarat for the first time, is a very good decision by the Government. The state is a centre for everyone who are reaching there for the participation. Many new companies may also venture into the exports sector after this mega event as they will get insights about the export industry.

Vivek Khandelwal, Director, Patterns India, Jaipur

This is the first time that the show is happening in Gujarat, and we are very hopeful about its productive outcomes. We are in

Jaipur and so we have to move either to Delhi or to Gujarat to attend the event. So this is not something which is bothering us anyway. AEPC has assured us about the buyers count in a positive manner. They had promised us more buyers in comparison to previous years. AEPC has also announced subsidies for the exhibitors that will make it more cost-effective for us. Now, we are just preparing ourselves with an entirely new range and we just hope that it will be a great success.

K. Ravindran, General Manager, Saravana Garments, Tirupur

We are very much surprised with the decision of AEPC, and this will be a huge setback for the IIGF. Delhi is a central place for the overseas buyers and interstate exporters to reach. Hence, overall footfall will be affected definitely in terms of buyers and also exhibitors. This may be one of PM’s wish but this will impact negatively. It won’t be possible for our company to participate in Textile India 2017. We must wait for next year’s January edition which may hopefully take place in Delhi.

Kapil Sadh, Partner, SK Overseas, Greater Noida

This decision is neither good for us nor for the industry. Shifting the fair from Delhi to Gandhinagar is something which I can say is directly associated with politics, and decision makers should also think about industry’s profit rather than thinking of only about any specific state. As exhibitors have to put extra effort to manage things in Gandhinagar this time, AEPC has to provide more facilities for better results. I must say that for such an event, Delhi is the best place in India be it in terms of connectivity or industry’s comfort. Despite this, if the Government wants to change the place for holding the event, Mumbai will be a good option in terms of better accessibility.

Rajiv Bansal, MD, Celestial Knits, Noida

I feel shifting the location of the decade old established fair is a very poor idea. We have rarely or ever participated in IIGF and I don’t think that with shifting the fair to Gandhinagar, Gujarat, we will participate in Textiles India 2017.

MIND TREE


There is talk that if the FTA with Europe is not coming through, India should negotiate with UK for a similar agreement as most exporters in India are working majorly with UK buyers in the region. Do you agree with this view…? Should India override EU to forge an alliance with the UK…? Do you think such an arrangement could affect our relations with EU?

N E X T M I N D T R E E Q U E S T I O NP O S T Y O U R C O M M E N T S

[email protected]

TC Dewangan, Director, Quilt India, New Delhi

We prefer Delhi only as we think it has several good and viable places for any buyer. We had words with few of our buyers and they are quite uneasy with this decision. So it may also affect buyers’ footfall. We were planning to participate in this event as it is going to happen first time over there but after buyers’ conversations, we are now rethinking about

it. Although AEPC assured to provide subsidies too, we have to see whether these subsidies will be enough or not. No doubt, this decision may also lead to a chunk of exporters moving towards Hong Kong Fashion Week.

Kishan G Barvaliya, Partner, Righteous Global Exim, Surat

It is a quite appreciable decision of the Government; this step will definitely give a boost

to the readymade garment industry of the Gujarat. I’m very hopeful about the benefits which we will get after this major happening in our state; companies that are indulged in RMG sector will develop as a cluster, where more and more garment manufacturing plants are expected to be set up just like Ludhiana and Tirupur. For example, as of now we are just merchant exporters and are not having our own merchandising, but if good opportunities like this world-class sourcing fair in Gandhinagar and such other

support come to us, we will decidedly move towards manufacturing too. One can say that due to first such event in Gujarat on garmenting, this time buyers’ footfall can be less but it doesn’t mean that organizing this event in Gandhinagar is a wrong idea. Delhi already has its own developed garment industry, so this is a perfect time to approach new places which have potential, and I think Gujarat is the best option for that. We have to think and work collectively and not as an individual.

MIND TREE


According to the news report published by PwC, spending which accounts for more than

two-third of UK gross domestic product, will slow further to 1.7 per cent in 2017 as income gains fail to keep up with the inflation. It further forecasts that the housing and utility spending could account for just under 30 per cent of household budgets by 2030, up from about 25 per cent last year, forcing Britons to cut back on non-essentials. “Increased borrowing may help fill the gap in the short term, but there are limits to how far UK consumers can continue to live beyond their means with expenditure rising faster than their disposable incomes. We, therefore, expect consumer spending growth to moderate over the next couple of years as higher inflation and Brexit-related uncertainty start to bite,” reveals John Hawksworth, Chief Economist, PwC.

After confusing most of the economic forecasters last year, UK saw a solid GDP growth of 0.6 per cent in the three months following Brexit and the economy is expected to have grown 0.5 per cent in

the final quarter of last year as per Reuters’ poll of economists. During this period, the consumer spending provided the main momentum to UK’s continued growth. But as inflation that is already at a two-and-a-half-year high, is expected to rise further, the support from consumer spending will be harder to maintain. As per the Bank of England, weak pound will lead to an increase in import costs and for some that also will be passed on to consumers, thereby impacting their spending power. Currently, the retail sales figures are already suggesting that the price rise is affecting shoppers as sales volumes suffered their sharpest drop for more than four years in December.

The recent surveys and reports suggest that the growth in UK’s service sector was at a five-month low in February 2017. As suggested by the Markit/CIPS, purchasing managers’ index (PMI) for services fell to 53.3, down from 54.5 in January, remaining above the 50-threshold demarcating growth from reduction. Irrespective of various surveys and reports, the UK economy

UK consumer’s spending to reduce in coming years

GDP growth expected to see a sharp slowdown in 2017

Though the initial growth figures for 2017 show signs of revival for the UK economy, a weaker sterling and

higher inflation are expected to dent it, claim economists. According to PricewaterhouseCoopers LLP (PwC),

UK’s consumer spending growth will weaken in the years to come after slipping to about 2 per cent this

year from 3 per cent in 2016. The food and clothing sectors that are heavily reliant on exports are going

to be the most exposed to the pound’s 18 per cent drop against the dollar since Britain’s vote to leave the

European Union.

As suggested by the Markit/CIPS, purchasing managers’ index (PMI) for services fell to 53.3, down from 54.5 in January, remaining above the 50-threshold demarcating growth from reduction.

WORLD WRAP


beat expectations in 2016 when Brexit happened, thereby making various companies and market research firms continuously update their figures regarding the growth projection of the country’s economy. Though International Monetary Fund had previously predicted a sharper slowdown, it revised its figures as per UK seeing a growth at 1.5 per cent this year.

Also, pushing this further is the weak currency as pound fell dramatically after the Brexit vote last year, and since then, it has been trading around 15 per cent lower as compared to the dollar and 12 per cent lower compared to the euro than it was before the decision. So retailers in general are among the hardest hit from the falling pound as a majority of them source their products from Asia, for which they pay in dollars. A few currency strategists believe that sterling is likely to remain volatile in the coming months until there is greater clarity about UK’s Brexit deal. This lays further emphasis on the uncertainty

surrounding the retail industry, the consumer spending, consumer confidence, savings and household’s disposable income.

Contrary to the above projections and reports, February witnessed stronger than expected retail sales data, which further has helped push sterling to a one month high against the dollar. According to the figures from

the Office of National Statistics (ONS), sales volume grew by 1.4 per cent in February, pushing the sterling up by 0.2 per cent against the dollar at US $ 1.25 and up 0.5 per cent against the euro at € 1.16. According to new data from the Centre for Retail Research (CRR) and Rakuten Marketing, 61 per cent of shoppers say they will not be discouraged from purchasing premium items if prices rise by up to 10 per cent, while only 6 per cent say they would refuse to buy the item.

While political negotiations continue, retailers need to be prepared for inconsistency in sterling, rising cost of credit and weak consumer confidence affecting their spending. Nonetheless, retail is still integral to Britain’s economy as it is responsible for 11 per cent of the output and 4.5 million jobs in shops, e-commerce and physical distribution, but for retailers to smoothly see transition post-Brexit, they need to encapsulate strategies that make them more agile, digital, capital-intensive and responsive to change.

Retail is still integral to Britain’s economy.

WORLD WRAP


Fashion brand Guess has announced to close 60 under-performing stores in the USA this fiscal year, with more than 100 stores on the chopping block during the 2018 fiscal year to focus on profitability improvements. The closure announcement is made as Guess’ fourth-quarter results fell short of what the company projected.

Victor Herrero, CEO, Guess commented, “We are seeing in the US market a significant drop in traffic, which is leading us on the fourth quarter to a more promotional environment,” adding, “And at the same time, this is basically, as a consequence, declining our margins.” Even though Victor expressed his optimism that Guess will improve its operating income by US $ 16 million annually through the new round of closures once they are

Inditex, the world’s biggest clothing retailer and owner of Zara, has posted the financial results for the fiscal year 2016 ending on 31st January 2017. The company’s net sales jumped 12 per cent to Euro 23.3 billion compared to Euro 20.9 billion in the corresponding period in 2015.

complete later this year. The brand has acquired revenue up with a 3 per cent gain to US $ 679.3 million, slightly less than the 4 per cent growth rate that investors had expected. In the USA and Canada, Guess’ same-store sales (including e-commerce) fell 7 per cent in US dollars and 7.4 per cent in constant currency terms.

In the reporting period, the company witnessed a surge of 9 per cent in net profit to Euro 3.16 billion, up by 10 per cent as against Euro 2.88 billion in FY 2015. Gross profit generated in the review period stood at Euro 13.28 billion. In addition, same-store sales climbed 10 per cent,

Herrero and Sandeep Reddy, CFO of Guess outlined an aggressive strategy to renovate profits in the brand’s US operations through a store rationalization approach involving rent re-negotiation and closures. According to Reddy, it’s quite different scenario for the brand’s stores outside of North America,

up from 8.5 per cent in FY ’15, with positive same-store sales growth in all geographies and across all brands. The group opened 279 stores, ending the year with 7,292 stores in 93 markets across all five continents. Europe saw 102 new stores, Asia and the rest of the world saw 116 and the

however. This year, Guess will open 60 stores in Europe, where nearly half of its sales come from wholesale, and another 35 locations in Asia following surge in the revenue.

It’s worth mentioning here that Guess operates 945 retail stores in the America, Europe and Asia out of which around 400 stores are located in the USA.

“Basically what we are trying to do is to become very profitable in the US and trying to grow anywhere else. For example: For the last six quarters we’ve been seeing positive trend in Europe, while for the last two quarters we’ve been seeing very positive trend in Asia. So, what we are trying to do is to rebalance a little bit of our business between the international and the domestic,” concludes Herrero.

Americas saw 61 of them. Pablo Isla, Chairman and CEO, Inditex states, “These are a positive set of results against a backdrop of strong prior-year performance. This is a direct result of the commitment, spirit and ambition of all the professionals comprising the group, their dedication to the company, passion for fashion and focus on sustainability.”

In the financial outlook for current fiscal, Inditex plans to continue to expand its integrated store and online model globally. Zara’s online store will go live in Thailand and Vietnam in the coming weeks, while its launch in India is scheduled for the second half of the year.

Guess to close 60 stores in US; expand overseas

Inditex notes 12% jump in net sales

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German sportswear brand Adidas is planning to increase its sales in North America by almost half by the year 2020. The retailer has set a target of ¤ 5 billion (£ 4.37 billion) for 2020, after a 24 per cent jump to ¤ 3.4 billion in 2016. It noted an 18 per cent increase in its revenue on a currency-neutral basis in 2016. In Euro terms, revenues grew 14 per cent to Euros 19.291 billion (US $ 20.391 billion).

The sportswear retailer has recently decided to accelerate strategy execution. Under its long-term strategic business plan, ‘Creating the New’, the company intends to strongly accelerate sales and earnings growth until 2020.

In 2016, despite severe headwinds from negative currency effects, the company’s gross margin increased

0.3 percentage points to 48.6 per cent (2015: 48.3 per cent), as a result of the positive effects from

a significantly better pricing, product and channel mix as well as lower input costs.

Adidas plans to increase sales in North America

RETAIL CURRENT

American sportswear giant NIKE has once again been named the world’s ‘most valuable’ apparel brand after a 13 per cent surge in brand value to US $ 32 billion, according to a report by Brand Finance.

The retailer’s strength score of 92, measured by marketing investment, familiarity, loyalty, staff satisfaction and corporate reputation, and its AAA+ rating, made the sportswear giant the most powerful brand in the sector and the third most powerful across all sectors.

“NIKE’s strength can be attributed to the apparel giant’s ability to continuously innovate and deliver state-of-the-art products to a range of consumer demographics,” states Brand Finance. Most recently, Nike launched performance hijab and a plus-size collection.

Alongside its products, the brand also delivers powerful messages through its marketing campaigns, which Brand Finance states “undoubtedly bolsters” its brand value and strength.

H&M bagged the second place with a brand value of US $ 19 billion, up by 24 per cent last

year, contributed by expansion of its retail stores, opening 442 in 2016 alone. Not too far behind in third spot is Zara, which saw its brand valued at US $ 14.4 billion. It is the flexibility of Zara’s fast fashion model that allows it to adapt its clothing to unpredictable circumstances such

as unusual changes in weather and means that its brand’s value “flourishes as a result of this competitive advantage”, as per the report.

The report also underlined that Zara overtook Louis Vuitton, valued at US $ 13 billion. However, the French fashion house does still remain the most valuable luxury apparel brand on the list, followed by Hermès (US $ 8.3 billion), Gucci (US $ 6.8 billion), Donna Karan (US $ 6.6 billion), and Coach which increased up the listings with US $ 4.6 billion, while Burberry (US $ 4 billion) and Michael Kors (US $ 3.7 billion) both have moved down.

Marc Jacobs came out as the fastest-growing brand of the 50 most valuable apparel brands. The fashion label’s brand value stood at US $ 1.4 billion due to the company’s restructuring.

NIKE, the ‘most valuable' apparel brand: Report


Amongst many instrumental tools of sustainability, Sustainable

Apparel Coalition (SAC), US, is quite well-appreciated and a truly growing one. SAC is a global alliance of all stakeholders with an aim to create an apparel, footwear and home textiles industry that produces no unnecessary environmental harm and has a positive impact on people and communities associated with its activities. Globally connected with 70 brands/retailers, 66 manufacturers and in total over 195 members, there are four Indian giants (Pratibha Syntex, Arvind Ltd., KG Denim and Aditya Birla) closely working with it. Apparel Online discussed the manifold perspectives of SAC with its CEO Jason Kibbey who was recently in India.

Higg Index, the core driver of SAC, is a self-assessment standard for assessing environmental and social sustainability throughout the supply chain. The result of unparalleled collaboration, enabling transparency for the entire industry, it has so far completed over 15,000 assessments. SAC brought forth a uniform environmental sustainability approach to the sector for both the brands and the factories. Now it is almost close to creating a standardized social and labour assessment with many other partners. “Many brands have adopted Higg and we certainly have many more who we would like to see adopting to Higg usage,” says Jason who describes that after self-assessment, the results are to be verified through different means which will create the ultimate impact. “Verification is currently underway, though we expect to see a significant spread of verification with the launch of our Higg 3.0 assessment (expected to come till October 2017),” he shared. The more an

Transparency is one of SAC’s core values. Anybody can access Higg Index 2.0 content from its website and check where his/her factory stands.

As far as apparel manufacturers for Indian domestic markets are concerned, their buyers may not push them for sustainability. Nobody will come and tell them about it. They have to see for themselves how their fellow exporters, top domestic brands or other manufacturers focusing on sustainability are getting benefited, be it in the form of more efficient and productive workers or something else.

Standardized approach with over 15,000 assessments

Susta inab le Appare l Coa l i t ion

TILL DATE, HIGG INDEX HAS COMPLETED OVER 15,000 ASSESSMENTS BY 6,977

COMPANIES. OUT OF THESE, 497 COMPANIES ARE LOCATED IN INDIA.

Jason Kibbey, CEO, SAC

SUSTAINABILITY

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apparel factory scores in Higg Index, higher are its chances of being the priority of buyers, as buyers compare this score of various factories. Besides, various factories and retailers can analyse their current standing with this Index to see where they are lacking compared to their fellow players and how best they can improve themselves.

After this assessment, the biggest challenge that comes up for apparel manufacturers is to find out ways to improve their score and for this, SAC endeavours to offer training. It works with other providers to conduct training on Higg and has great partnerships with the Clothing Industry Training Authority in Hong Kong, Reset Carbon in Bangkok, Li and Fung and others. Jason further informs that currently his team is working to develop several programmes for inducing such training sessions, and has also published a ‘How to Higg’ manual that guides the manufacturers about the procedure to use Higg Index in their facility.

Referring to its Indian members, Jason proudly says that the Indian companies are all great leaders in sustainability and there is a lot to learn from them. In his words, “Typically, manufacturers that have staff and capacity in sustainability join SAC. While this is the case for all of the companies mentioned, there are many Indian manufacturers just getting started in sustainability that do not have staff solely dedicated for the purpose.” Focusing more on India, SAC will have a meeting in Bangalore on May 22-23, 2017, co-hosting the event of Planet Textiles and Manufacturers Forum with ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) on the 25th of May.

Apparel manufacturers, who are not members of SAC, are also getting benefited from SAC or Higg Index as they can also use this assessment to help them improve their sustainability performance. High-performing companies ideally will lower their costs through greater efficiency as well as gain recognition from their customers. Finally, non-member companies that use the Higg Index will receive access to basic benchmarking to understand how they measure against their peers. “Companies, that are members, benefit from being able to create future versions of the Higg Index, shape how it is rolled out, and participate in the best sustainability forum in the apparel and footwear industry where they work alongside their peers in brands, retailers, manufacturers, raw materials providers and even NGOs, Governments and academics,” briefed Jason.

SAC also recommends a holistic management of social and environmental issues as issues relating to sustainability vary from place to place and company to company. “There is an unfortunate history of making progress on only one challenge at a time and then moving on to the next challenge before the first is solved. We believe that manufacturers should work with the Higg Index and improve their management on all of these issues by first working to achieve Higg Level 1 among the list of challenges and then building the capacity to improve and innovate,” insisted Jason.

SAC has typically grown by 15-20 per cent annually, but Jason does not believe this aggressive growth to be sustainable over the long-term.

Being one of the pioneers of sustainability among the Indian apparel exporters, Pratibha Syntex, Indore has been associated with SAC since the start and is extremely elated about working with it. Jaya Pathak from sustainability department of the company shared that Higg Index has provided it a comprehensive platform to measure, communicate and improve the environmental and social performance of its apparel production and benchmark these against industry peers. “There are some main points in this regard: It carries out the gap analysis between actual performance and industry standards; makes meaningful improvements by incorporating the gaps in the sustainability strategy and establishes targets to reduce the impacts; and analyses and quantifies the sustainability impacts that arise from apparel production and its delivery as a holistic overview of our sustainability performance – a big-picture perspective that is essential for progress to be made,” informed Jaya.

Jaya further adds, “It not only helps us to generate business but also provides us a great platform for communication and collaboration that spans across manufacturers, retailers and brands – which bodes well for industry-wide transparency moving forward. Moreover, it has also provided us an ability to connect seamlessly with the supply chain and industry peers, driving forward the much-needed transparency.”

Pratibha Syntex has gained with SAC

OWNERSHIP AT THE IMPLEMENTATION LEVEL IS EMERGING AS A TREND AND I MUST APPRECIATE THAT IT IS GROWING IN MOST

OF THE PLACES.

SUSTAINABILITY


According to the report ‘Do leather workers matter – Violating labour rights and environmental norms in India’s leather production’ – around 2.5 million workers deployed in Indian leather industry often face unacceptable working conditions that violate human rights and seriously affect their health. Even female homeworkers face insecure and unprotected work, receive poverty wages and work under unsafe conditions in tanneries. Moreover, children are often involved in leather production in India, mostly in the unorganized

To incentivize companies in terms of human right performance, a new Benchmark has been launched through a 2 years consultation with over 400 companies, supported by 85 investors, accounting for US $ 5.3 trillion in assets under management. The Benchmark is led by investors and non-profit groups and analyses 98 companies from three high-risk industries – agricultural products, apparel and

The Leather Working Group and MVO Nederland (CSR Netherlands), and pledged to take serious action against human rights violation in their leather supply chain.

extractives, but will grow year-on-year to cover the world’s 500 largest listed enterprises. “This first Benchmark is a baseline. In the future, we want to see companies move up as they respond to increased public scrutiny and engagement from investors. Inaction runs a high reputational risk and low scoring companies should act decisively, learn from leading practices, and rapidly

part of the sector, working in smaller tanneries and workshops. Also, toxic chemicals used in tanneries often impact the health of the workers very negatively. Low wages, exploitation of home based workers, and discrimination have also emerged as major issues being faced by the labourers employed in the industry.

In a joint statement, 12-member companies of the Ethical Trading Initiative (UK) said, “Taken together, we recognize the very concerning issues in the leather supply chain.” They also

improve,” informs Vicky Dodman, Chief Executive of the Corporate Human Rights Benchmark.

The Benchmark will examine companies’ policies, governance, processes, practices and transparency, as well as how they respond to serious allegations of human rights abuse. This is done by scoring the companies on 100 indicators across six measurement themes. The ranking also paves the way for Governments to use a smart mix of regulation and incentives to enhance transparency and minimum standards of corporate behavior to make the business case for the respect of human rights. “In our company engagements, we have noticed that public benchmarks make sustainability topics more concrete for companies and create a ‘race to the top’,” tells Angélique Laskewitz, Director, Dutch Association for Sustainable Investing.

added: “We commit to working with international and national stakeholders to develop a strategic response to the issues in our leather supply chain.”

19 companies, including the 12 ETI members, like C&A, H&M, Primark, Inditex, Marks & Spencer, NEXT, TESCO, Sainsbury and Pentland, reacted to the report as well as the two CSR initiatives: The Leather Working Group and MVO Nederland (CSR Netherlands), and pledged to take serious action against human rights violation in their leather supply chain.

Violation of labour rights in the leather industry!

First ever human rights performance Benchmark launched

SUSTAINABILITY

Eight special advisors have joined the European Clothing Action Plan (ECAP) recently, the first EU-Life funded project to drive sustainability throughout the entire lifecycle of clothing. The ECAP advisory group will offer guidance to the partner organization’s responsible for delivering several action areas related to the European clothing sector, and will act as ambassadors for ECAP in helping to forge new partnerships with stakeholders and businesses within participating countries. “We are delighted to be working with such an experienced and influential group of advisors. We held our first group meeting recently, and it is obvious that the advisors’ involvement will be invaluable in expanding ECAP’s reach and that their energy and support will help towards ECAP achieving its ambitious goal of making European clothing more sustainable, from point of production to end of life,” tells Leigh Mapledoram, Head of Programme

Eight advisors join ECAP

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A new medical insurance scheme ‘Mediplus 365’ with the payment of Re. 1 per day has been launched for labourers, informed Tirupur Exporters Association (TEA) of India. The insurance scheme executed by Edelweiss Insurance Brokers Ltd., Mumbai through New India Insurance Company, will provide insurance coverage of Rs. 1,00,000 to labourers. The insurance company apart from taking care of the medical expenses will also provide accident coverage of Rs. 1,00,000 to those insured under the scheme.

The association has empanelled four insurance brokers, Edelweiss Brokers Ltd., Zeal Insurance, Om Maruthi Insurance and Indian Insurance Broking to analyze the existing general insurance policies, in the context of fire accident, flood, marine, stock and machinery breakdown taken by the TEA members and based on the advice of the concerned insurance brokers, the members of the body will restructure their premium amount and coverage.

In terms of boosting denim production, Chicago-based Twin Dragon Marketing has announced the launch of ecological improvements in their Northern Hemisphere Mexican mills and at their Asian facilities by introducing liquid indigo and eco-finishing. “This has stabilized the shade of indigo, increased the colorfastness in both dry and wet crocking and the final denim product has a 3D appearance – it’s amazing! In addition, this new eco-denim will

The Swedish multinational clothing retailer H&M has launched a new sustainable clothing line for women and children exclusively for 2017. The new Conscious Exclusive collection includes sustainable material such as bionic-recycled polyester made from plastic shoreline water. It includes various pieces, each one different from the other portraying how sustainable materials can create the best style. Being one of the world’s biggest users of recycled polyester and one of the biggest buyers of organic cotton, H&M’s Conscious Exclusive is a driver in H&M’s move towards a more sustainable future for fashion. It is also an effort towards the retailer’s plan of meeting the goal of being 100 per cent sustainably sourced in cotton by 2020.

“For the design team at H&M, this year’s Conscious Exclusive is a chance to dream and create pieces that are both quirky and beautiful. It’s great to be able to show just what is possible with

dye process for black jeans. The use of eco-finishing at the Mexico mill for a whole year would save up to 40 million gallons of water and also by using liquid indigo, 700,000

help the denim laundry house save water, minimize chemical usage and speed up garment processing. It’s the best scenario for both our mills and garment manufacturers,” reveals Dominic Poon, CEO of Twin Dragon Marketing.

Over the last 10 years, Twin Dragon has made significant investments in eco-friendly fibres, such as Lenzing’s Tencel and Modal, and has also developed their own trademarked Forever Black that eliminates the environmental costly

sustainable materials like we have done with the delicate plisse dress made of Bionic,” reveals Pernilla Wohlfahrt, H&M’s Head of Design And Creative Director. This year’s Conscious Exclusive stars Natalia Vodianova, the Supermodel and

Philanthropist, her first ever campaign with H&M. This will also be the first time that the collection will incorporate clothing line for children which will be available in around 160 stores worldwide and in India as well.

lbs of sodium hydrosulphite would be saved from contaminating the environment in one year, a 57 per cent conservation compared to the current powder indigo standard.

‘Mediplus 365' @ Re. 1/day by TEA

Twin Dragon boosts sustainable denim production

H&M launches a new sustainable clothing line

SUSTAINABILITY


RSWM… Living a philosophy of product innovation

RSWM Ltd., a pioneer in textile manufacturing with its two popular collections, Mayur and Cannello sold worldwide, also invests a lot of time and energy in new product development. The company’s ideology is to remain competitive and relevant by continually investing in formulation of new products and introducing them in the market at the earliest. Raj Rishi, Corporate Strategy, RSWM Ltd., referring to its differential product strategy, elaborates, “‘Diverse’ is what makes us a brand away

from the crowd. We not only produce cotton and synthetic yarns but also offer eco-friendly yarns, core spun yarns, hollow core yarns, dyed yarns, fancy yarns and mélange yarns. You speak of any yarn category and we have it available with us.”

However, regarding India’s stance as a basic/commodity yarn/fabric producer, he feels that India is still perceived the world over as an essential cotton producer. But he claims that RSWM Ltd. has been

It is a well-known fact that cotton yarn manufacturing constitutes the backbone of the textile industry in India. Yet, many factors in the past few years have unwittingly pushed the spinning industry to a glut situation with over-supply of cotton yarns, in particular. For one, the industry has seen unprecedented investments leading to huge capacity building. Added to this has been unpredictable monsoon which determines the arrival of cotton crops, wavering cotton prices, reduction in demand of cotton yarn from China and absence of a strong policy intervention to ensure security for cotton manufacturers. Fighting to stay alive, progressive companies are taking the R&D route with focus on innovation and differentiation to stay relevant. The country is no longer just a traditional cotton yarn manufacturer of basic qualities, but now also has in its portfolio diverse yarn types which would help it capitalize on the emerging global market for innovation. Interestingly, the demand for differentiation is coming not only from global textile and retail brands but also from Indian customer base. A young, economically empowered Indian population that has a rising aspiration for a better life has created an evolved Indian consumer that is more discerning than ever, ready to place his money on brand and quality, eager to explore the organized retail market. Currently, there is nearly 40% of merchandise at the 400+ Indian malls and millions of retail stores belonging to apparel and home textiles showing immense opportunities for the Indian textile industry.

INDIAN SPINNING INDUSTRY TAKES AN INNOVATIVE SHIFT FROM BASIC YARN TO SPECIALIZED YARN PRODUCTION

Five Textile companies with thrust on PD share their journey…

YARN UPDATE

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at the forefront of creating a transformation in the country’s image by catering to a wide product category in multi-fibre yarns using exotic fibres like cupro, dyneema, Kevlar to name just a few. Even there are other spinners in India who are diversifying their product range to manufacture various kinds of fancy yarns but India will have to go a long way to break its traditional approach and adorn a radical perspective, he feels.

NSL Textiles… Making PD the root of growth

Being a regular and consistent supplier of knitting yarns to selective domestic markets like Kolkata and overseas markets like Korea, NSL Textiles has managed to maintain high standard of yarn quality providing 100% modal yarn, 100% tencel yarn and yarn made of blends with modal/tencel with cotton and linen for both weaving and knitting sectors. With an installed production capacity of 2,80,000 ring spindles for producing combed and compact ring spun yarns, 3,744 Rotors for making OE yarn and 18 tonnes/day of yarn dyeing, the company also holds 1,800 bales/day ginning capacity. Though Nagesh M, DGM – Yarn Marketing, NSL Textiles, Hyderabad agrees with the increasing plight of the Indian cotton yarn manufacturers, he is positive of growth as his company has adopted a two-step approach – unique product development and specific target markets that have resulted in huge success even in a slow market.

Speaking about the importance of new product development in the company, Nagesh avers, “Feel and comfort, of course, are very important aspects in any garment these days and without them, any product will only have a limited life span. Similarly, yarns made out of new fibre types are gaining popularity over the past few decades.” He strongly believes that innovative new fibres will always be in demand because of the requirement

of different applications such as breathability, durability, temperature control, water-repellent, moisture absorbency etc. in different types of wear like workwear, sportswear, protective wear and functional wear. Nagesh further adds that apart from these factors, sustainability is the new mantra in the field of textiles which is sure to stay for a long time. “The focus now is on the usage of eco-friendly fibres, eco-friendly manufacturing of textiles, eco-friendly work practices and proper re-cycling of textiles after their uses. We all have to be individually responsible rather than being followers of any set norms,” avers Nagesh

Adopting flexibility in the delivery of order types, the company is now offering a wide range of slub yarns from Ne 20s to 60s, finer counts like 40s, 50s combed core-spun yarn and a variety of blends of tencel with cotton and linen and blends of cotton and linen with counts ranging from 14s to 40s. To add to their benchmark as producers of finer counts and blends, NSL Textiles are currently specialized masters in selecting good quality kappas and following exclusive work practices like contamination sorting of cotton in their own ginning factories.

Nimbark Fashions… Collaborative approach to innovation

Nimbark Fashions believes that product development is the brain behind any collection. Therefore, they have an experienced team who have worked and seen many seasons in the textile domain and have a knack of catching the latest market trends, handling PD. The company runs on a cycle of constant production with 5-6 products ready for new launches at any particular time period. “India is mainly an exporter of commodity yarns and fabrics. But, considering the ongoing scenario where more value-added fabrics are in demand, Indian manufacturing units are also diversifying towards value addition which will support a movement away from the perception of India as a basic yarn/fabric manufacturer,” says Mahesh Maheshwari, Director, Nimbark Fashions Pvt. Ltd. He adds that a good collection of products is their biggest strength along with constant supply of quality and quantity of yarn/fabric manufactured. “Our products allow our client to remain in front of their

The country is no longer just a traditional cotton yarn manufacturer of basic qualities, but now also has in its portfolio diverse yarn types which would help it capitalize on the emerging global market for innovation. Interestingly, the demand for differentiation is coming not only from global textile and retail brands but also from Indian customer base.

ESSENTIALS

Nagesh M, DGM – Yarn Marketing, NSL Textiles

“Feel and comfort are very important aspects in any garment these days and

without them, any product will only have a limited life span.”

Mahesh Maheshwari, Director, Nimbark Fashions Pvt. Ltd.

“With more value-added fabrics in demand, Indian manufacturing units are

diversifying towards diversification.”

Shalendra Vasudeva, CMO, Indorama Industries Limited

“We are also in the process to develop coloured spandex

and specialty spandex, like antibacterial and anti-odour

spandex.”

YARN UPDATE


competitors and maintain their profit margin,” he says.

Offering products such as filament yarn, viscose, cotton-dyed fabric, modal silk, dupont silk, variations of linen, soft yarn with various colour variations, the company provides the industry with something new every time in terms of product development. “We rely on customer feedback for product development and also we have a few consultants with whom we work regarding trends,” shares Mahesh. Apart from our 2 spinning mills, the company also outsources work to a dedicated 2,000 spindle as well. “Our production capacity from one lakh spindles every month is about 1,000-1,200 tonnes and the understanding of fashion has given us the flexibility to offer as less as 10 kgs of yarn, if so required,” says Mahesh.

Indorama Industries… Riding high on Inviya

Indorama Corporation has managed to become one of the most geographically assorted producer of spun yarns. This company ensures

that its product development team encompasses human capital from diverse domains like polymer science, textile science and chemical process engineering who have the capability to work in sync with experts in the same field from US, Korea and China. Indeed, this organization goes a step forward in supporting its product development team with an in-house developed “pilot polymerization plant” located at its manufacturing facility at Baddi for the development of coloured spandex. This pilot line is an excellent facility equipped with ultra-modern technology having the capacity to produce 1 MT of polyurethane polymer per day. Today their brand INVIYA® is the only spandex manufactured in India which is offering a new advanced and improved spandex to its customers.

In fact, the company’s close co-ordination with its customers ensures that it helps them during all types of developmental needs and hence, is ahead of the competitive industry. “We are also in the process to develop coloured spandex and specialty spandex, like antibacterial and anti-odour spandex, provided the demand from end customers’ supports required volumes to run these products,” informs Shalendra Vasudeva, Chief Marketing Officer, Indorama Industries Limited. He adds, “So far, India has been well regarded as a strong supplier of commodity yarns like cotton yarns and polyester textured yarns, but with initiatives by many other textile companies, the world is beginning to acknowledge our strengths in speciality products too.”

Gimatex Industries… Taking PD down to ginning

Gimatex Industries Pvt. Ltd., a completely integrated textile facility with Ginning, Spinning, Weaving & Processing units under its fold has the vision to provide premium quality textile products to its customers using the latest in textile technology. Run by

SYNTHETIC YARNSTHE MOST PROMISING TEXTILE DOMAIN

Synthetic fibres are the talk of the day amongst the world leaders in textiles. Be it in the form of modal, tencel, rayon, acrylic or viscose, there has been a huge bend globally towards these functional based fibres and yarns where fabric attributes carry the most importance. Despite a fluctuating, transient world economy, the aura of man-made textiles continues to spread in an unparalleled way due to the high-value, high-quality and multifarious performance obtained from these technologically developed apparels.

With the rise of a sophisticated and socially conscious consumer with improved lifestyles and rapid urbanization, man-made fibres are the most progressive product segments that are here to stay for a very long time. Besides, an increased awareness on sustainability, IT integrated technical garments and R & D activity conducted by various textile companies to survive in this neck-and-neck close competitive environment, ensures that new fibre blends are created with the help of different finishes, looks and textures to meet the sweeping demands of today’s forever inquisitive consumers. At present, synthetic textiles occupy more than 50% of the total textile output globally and are projected to see even more crucial growth ahead because of the need for the development of new blends for production of diversified fabrics.

China is already at the forefront of this radical change being the largest manufacturer of synthetic fibres. With the Indian cotton spinning industry being the second largest in the world after China, the alarm bell is already ringing in our country to boost its performance in this booming yarn sector at the earliest. The textile companies in India are looking to strengthen their capabilities in man-made yarns/textiles, but support of Governmental measures, a reduction in import and central excise duty and fresh investment is required to achieve the desired level as a principal manufacturer on the world stage.

Prashant Mohota, Managing Director, Gimatex Industries Pvt. Ltd.

“India, as a primary producer of yarns/fabrics, has of course moved leaps but has still not reached the desired level.”

YARN UPDATE




a highly dynamic and experienced management and supported by a strong skilled workforce of 3,000 people the group has become a strong player in the market and a name to reckon with.

Gimatex has thrived using values of innovation, quality, and ethical practices as its pillars of growth. Stakeholders dealing with the company continue to maintain the relationship on a long-term basis. “This association flourishes in the environment of mutual trust that is present between the company and its business partners and other stakeholders. Our ever-growing sales figure is a testimony to our customer-centric approach,” says Prashant Mohota, Managing Director, Gimatex Industries Pvt. Ltd.

The company has ventures into the unknown theme of merging the numerous procedures right from ginning to processing to help in the final product layout. It also possesses highly sophisticated labs with miniature lab machines where small runs of different fibre blends, with separate twists and feel can be carried out for many trials, from fibre stage to finished fabric stage under the special supervision of extremely skilled technicians. Gimatex is one such textile name which provides testing capacities to its customers to assure them of the premium quality products that it is delivering. It has launched its new mobile app G-force to raise its standards of service quality for its privileged customers.

Speaking about India’s altering role as an inherent commodity producer of yarns and fabrics, Prashant encapsulates, “India, as a primary producer of yarns/fabrics, has of course moved leaps but has still not reached the desired level. Our focus on mass manufacturing along with more stress on cotton fibre rather than plenty of other synthetic fibres with unique properties renders us weak when it comes to delivering high-value items and becoming one of the superior manufacturers of the world.”

While the garment export market is always looking for new product developments

along the value chain to create innovative collections that would appeal to international buyers, the domestic players are not far behind. Today, India is home to the ‘world’s youngest population’ and the textile industry is sure to benefit from this fashion-oriented GenNext, as the burgeoning domestic market for garments is being fed by the abundant availability of all types of fibres and yarns, such as cotton, viscose and polyester within India and at a price “lower” than the international markets. Rakesh Sharma, Executive Director, Tecoya Infotech (the organizers of Fibres & Yarns 2017 Expo) aptly states, “Considering that the Indian GDP will continue to remain upwards by 7% and India having the world’s largest population below the age of 40 years estimated at over 200 million and having above-average purchasing power, the business opportunities within the domestic sector will touch a mammoth level. This lethal combination of growth of our economy and the rising desires and aspirations of young Indians will ensure that the demand for textile and clothing keeps on surging year after year.”

Fibres and yarns constitute the most important raw materials for this domain as they lead to the creation of final garments or home textiles offered to both the national and international market. To

make them available to the downstream fabric, garment and home textiles value chain, leading fibre and yarn producers from India and abroad are unveiling their latest and innovative collections at the 12th Edition of Fibres & Yarns in Mumbai. It indicates the coming together of weavers, knitters and garment brand managers on one single platform to have a look at the latest yarn collections for conversion into innovative fabrics and garments. Some of the flourishing speciality fibre and yarn manufacturers, from India and abroad are displaying their yarn varieties here which include silver yarn; soyabean, milk and bamboo fibres (from China); nylon micro fibres; modal and tencel fibres; fire retardant viscose; hi-tech polyester fibres and filaments for functional fabrics; pure silk, linen and jute yarns.

Amongst the huge number of companies who are participating in this fair, some companies are showcasing exclusive yarn collections that will definitely catch the eye of the visitors. Nimbark Fashions, which is a pioneer in fancy yarns manufacturing since the past 30 years, is revealing a range of diamond series yarns, twin twist yarns and raw silk yarns. These yarns are formulated to give different structural effects and grindle effects to the fabrics apart from creating blends which give the look and feel of Dupioni silk. Similarly, Indorama Corporation, is demonstrating a revolution in the field of spandex fibre, its new product range called INVIYA® I-400 which provides the customers with one-step solution to all their queries. It provides specifications like high elongation, better frictional properties, high heat resistance properties, high stretch power which make it the best fit for all end-uses.

RSWM Ltd. which is one of the largest textile manufacturers in India built on sustainable processes and technologies will also be displaying its latest yarn made with coffee fibres which act like anti-odour fabric. It is even exhibiting a series of sustainable fabrics with blends in recycled polyester and cotton. Meanwhile, Gimatex Industries Pvt. Ltd., a completely integrated textile facility, is showcasing viscose compact yarns built on latest compacting technology, synthetic core spun yarns in grey and dyed, and multi-count, multi-twist yarns which provide several value-added benefits to the fabric.

The 12th Edition of Fibres & Yarns A r a r e c o l l a b o r a t i o n o f f i b r e a n d y a r n m a n u f a c t u r e r s f o r i n n o v a t i v e i n s p i r a t i o n s

Dr. Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner, at the FNY Expo at the last edition

YARN UPDATE


Maharashtra Government has reserved 93 hectares of land in Lohara MIDC of the Yavatmal district for setting up a textile park. The work on the park is expected to start soon.

“The setting up of a textile park in Yavatmal MIDC area was pending for a long time due to the availability of adequate land. The proposal was initiated by the then Chief Minister Prithviraj Chavan himself,” said Madan Yerawar,

Apathetic behaviour in the initial days and lukewarm response from investors are reportedly among major reasons which have made India miss its investment target worth Rs. 40,000 crore. According to reports, the sector has managed to receive investments of just Rs. 16,371 crore, with the potential to generate 2.50 lakh jobs by March 2017.

Despite series of steps such as 2015 textile policy, which make

Union Minister of Heavy Industries Anant Geete has laid the foundation stone for Common Engineering Facility Centre (CEFC) for textile machinery and allied engineering industry at Bardoli, Gujarat. This will be south Gujarat’s first CEFC.

The CEFC will be constructed at a cost of Rs. 50 crore by Science Engineering and Technological Upliftment (SETU) foundation with the support of local industry associations like Surat Engineering Vikas Association (SEVA), Textile Machinery

Manufacturers Association of India (TMMAI) and Sardar Vallabhai Patel Education Society, Bardoli. The institution will come up on five acres of land at Faculty of Engineering Technology and Research (FETR) at Bardoli. Around 1,200 micro, small and medium enterprises of domestic textile and general engineer sector in south Gujarat region will be benefited with this project. It will also fulfil the objective of ‘Make in India’ and ‘Skill India’ campaigns of the Government of India.

it mandatory to have textile hubs concentrated in the cotton growing belt of Vidarbha and Marathwada to minimize the cost of transporting raw cotton and other expenses, could not help realize India’s dream.

According to the State Economic Survey 2016-17, “There are 16 textile parks functioning with employment of 0.23 lakh. Currently, there are 10.01 lakh powerlooms in state with 19 lakh employment.”

Minister, Energy and Guardian Ministry. The park would ensure large scale employment to the youth of the region besides providing better avenues for the farmers to garner maximum benefit. Basic infrastructure including supply of energy, water and provision for sewerage water treatment plant at the site will also be set up. A 132 KV electricity sub-station would cater to the energy requirements of the units in the textile park.

Maharashtra to get a new textile park

Textile industry fails to attract desired investment

Anant Geete lays foundation stone for CEFC

TEX-FILE




SC Ralhan, President, Federation of Indian Export Organizations (FIEO), has welcomed the launch of Trade Infrastructure for Export Scheme (TIES) by the Indian Government, and believes that it will help reduce exporters transaction cost.

Ralhan said that the Indian exporters face huge challenges in terms of infrastructure, particularly in states. Trade infrastructure is one of the critical elements in export trade to enhance efficiency and competitiveness in global market. He also mentioned that inadequate infrastructure pushes exporters transaction cost,

impacting competitiveness of Indian goods in the global market. “The logistics cost in India is one of the highest in the world,” he added.

FIEO Chief further stated that the new scheme will also help create modern infrastructure like last

mile connectivity to ports, besides testing labs and certification centres. It will help in modernizing infrastructure in states for exporters besides addressing various other challenges and export bottlenecks.

India’s Commerce and Industry Minister Nirmala Sitharaman recently launched the Trade Infrastructure for Export Scheme, which is focused on addressing the needs of the exporters.

TIES will cut exporters transaction cost, says FIEO President

TEX-FILE


With a long journey encompassing 45 years (25 years for Manish

alone) and a strong confluence of artisans from every corner of the country being associated with them, the company’s objective was, is and will always remain to bring the best out of India’s rich traditional heritage and present it to the world in the form of phenomenal designs representing high quality collections in home furnishings such as cushion covers, bed linens, duvet covers, sheet sets, comforters, and rugs and carpet. The company’s buyers span from small retailers within the country to some of the top brands in the US and Europe, which source from the company because of their handwoven fabrics and design coordination which are the endowments of artisans from small clusters in Rajasthan, Gujarat, UP and West Bengal. “Brands look forward to our collection and their designers pick up our designs which are indeed a matter of great pride for us,” avers Manish.

It is also their strong product development strategy that sets them apart from other regular home furnishing companies. Manish himself travels around the world for almost six months in a year visiting retail outlets and buyers

Growing from a small cabin of 300 square feet area to having 3 factories and 1 administrative head office today, the success story of East India Company, Mumbai is indeed a motivation in the business of home furnishings. A candid discussion with Manish Shah, a second-generation Director of the company, makes us really believe that ‘fair’ business can be a great amalgamation of multiple working centres, exclusive hand-crafted patterns and eco-friendly factories. “There are tremendous possibilities in India and this is what gets me excited to be a part of this venture,” says Manish passionately.

EAST INDIA COMPANY: OFFERING QUALITATIVE DESIGNS FROM ACROSS THE COUNTRY

H2F

“About 90% of our buyers are working with us for last 15 to 20 years, through thick and thin, which is an achievement for us.”

Apart from outsourcing of fabric, the company has 28 powerlooms and equal number of handlooms’ installations with an overall staff of 200 people in all its units. Having certificates like GOTS and BSCI, it follows AQL of 2 and 1.

ESSENTIALS

Manish Shah, Director, East India Company


in different countries to conduct intensive research on their cultural requirements and conceptualises products envisioning meeting such diverse customers’ demands. They also do not depend on the services of any permanent designers in-house as it leads to a routine look after some time. Rather they prefer working with young designers from outside who can always come up with fresh ideas.

Having separate weaving units at Karur and Kannur and their primary stitching unit at Mumbai, East India Company presents a fine example of adept networking of core strengths. In fact, having weaving units at Karur and Kannur gives them the competitive edge over others. The weaving unit at Karur is hardcore commercial because of cheap labour cost apart from the low rate of yarn procurement. But Kannur, on the other hand, is extremely high-end on quality and is suitable for smaller buyers demanding less quantity. Coordination between the three units is maintained tightly with the help of a structured time and action plan formulated right from the time the orders are placed till the final execution of the fabric. Manish further shares, “Among these various processes, if we find some loophole(s), they are immediately

addressed to, since rectifying them after the order is done would be increasingly difficult.”

However, amidst such spectacular management, lies the challenge of building a business on handlooms for larger quantities, as handmade items lack the speed of delivery of huge orders that’s possible by machines. Additionally, they are loaded with several unforeseen snags faced by weavers themselves, but he claims that a capacity to foresee such probable problems can reduce the chances of unexpected crisis. Moreover, their company targets a niche market for tailor-made products where quality rules over quantity and hence, issues related to massive production can be averted.

Undeterred by the obstacles coming their way, East India Company’s forte has been natural textiles with a target on sustainability. The company uses 100% cotton, linen and silk but no polyester. Their weaving units are completely natural, including dyeing processes with zero discharge of water, waste management and recycling of fertilizers. As Manish proudly states, “About 25% of our business is carbon without any footprint. (The weaving unit of the company is carbon-free; it uses a lot

of recycled material for various purposes). We desire to make our processes completely organic by 2020. At present, we implement sustainability only in few of our segments so that price is not impacted and buyers are not hesitant to buy our products.”

Their social comitments can be seen through their practise of donating a portion of their turnover to charitable trust and supply of interest-free loans to their employees as and when required. Besides sustainability, they aspire to accomplish their long-cherished dream of launching project ‘NIMMIT’ (connecting point) to promote their artisans on a global platform and also expand in handicrafts domain related to textiles such as fabrication of lamps.

“We see that the future is of tailor-made products as niche market is growing very well around the world. They prefer very good quality and demand small quantities of 100 to 200 pieces, which suits us well.”

ESSENTIALS

H2F

East India Company offers variety of products with the touch of local crafts


The biannual seasonal colour cards and textile trends emerge from a range of influences, encompassing consumer behaviour with respect to pivotal concerns surrounding the global economy, art and culture, music, films and television, social media, science and technology, etc. They form a basic guideline by which new developments and innovations of products are analysed, presented and highlighted for the approaching seasons.

In an overview, Spring/Summer 2018 is about exploration and evolution where comfort and performance is paramount, but with an added element and strong emphasis on style, vitality and technicity.

Expect to see softer and more sensually tactile products, enhanced with a distinctive range of lustre, accompanied with an essential aspect of comfort. The focus on function and utility casts its net to include UV protection, quick drying properties, moisture management and cooling technologies to compliment trans-seasonal performance. High tenacity continues to encourage a new generation of resilient fabrics and trims that feature a soft and sensual approach, while the natural and synthetic sectors continue with their course of hybridization.

FFT analyses the key trends to make a case for the upcoming Spring/Summer 2018 season and compiles them together under 5 key themes based on vital characteristics and performance.

WHAT’S NEW! INNOVATIVE YARN COLLECTIONS 2018

colours

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materials focus Leather has fine grains, semi-gloss, with a light-reflecting coating, glitter and soft gold light.

Fabrics are bright and iridescent, in relation to both the coating treatments and special yarns.

Brocades and jacquards are experiencing the inclusion of ethnic fibres.

Hardware in shades of gold, bronze and copper is combined with Plexiglas details or other high-tech materials.

The new generation of tulle and mesh is renewed by decorations and embellishments or combinations with raffia, woven leather and other types of yarns, tapes, knotting and embroidery.

Multi-coloured PVC with glitter sequins – embroidery and appliques on leather, PVC and on cork-effect materials.

Linen is light and almost transparent where new blends associated with recycled fibres bring modernity to a spring classic yarn.

Cotton is being preferred with a sustainable undertone. Hollow structures and blends with elastic fibres are popular.

Merino is blended with viscose, nylon, modal, Tencel and other recycled fibres.


Strength and tenacity come alive in this theme where a focus from anti-tear and anti-stress materials to body mapped aspects of reinforced engineered zones, only the toughest, resilient and most durable fibres will come to pass. The continual growth in high-tenacity yarns has a direct effect on the market. Fabrics that were previously tough and rigid, are being introduced with a super soft hand and enhanced flexibility.

Endurance paired with an anti-tear function will play a key role in addressing the growing ‘lifestyle’ sector, from urban activities to leisure and camping involving extreme sports such as cycling and rock climbing, enhancing the performance of the wearer. The focus on protection is continued with engineered fabrics that lock on impact for cycling through high compression fabrics that embrace the wearer anatomically in crucial areas.

Not just confined to wovens, knits are also taking up this trend with protective elements applied in single and double-layer sponge-like fabrics.

core shieldfibres, yarns & finishes

• Aramid yarns

• High tenacity yarns

• Natural, manmade and synthetics fibres all feature as blending partners

• Classics including gabardine and twill are updated in lighter weights with high tenacity yarns for enduring products

• Tough membranes and coatings – for shell-like protection

• Glassy aspects through cooling technology

• Stretch laminates

• High power spandex/elastane for high compression

• A renewed look at lightweight plastic trims and accessories with super strength through new ingredients in

• Lighter weight performance fabrics

• Anti-rip and cut resistant single jersey

• Nylon/polyamide warp knits with integrated compression zones, selvedge finishes, clean cut function

• 360° stretch wovens

target markets

• High impact sports

• Road cycling/mountain biking

• Rock climbing

• Lifestyle – athleisure/street sports

• Skateboarding

• Travel

• Outdoor equipment – tents, back packs, sleeping bags

HIGH TENACITY

PROTECTION

ROBUST

TOUGH

HARD CORE

SOFT TOUCH

DIRECTIONS BY


Technology has been focusing solely on function in the past, but the concept is shifting towards lighter variations with detailed surface effects for the Spring/Summer 2018 season.

Enhanced performance, exceptional protection and premium functionality is being delivered through a turbocharged feel features owing to the fabrics and trims used under this theme. High compression materials featuring a four-way stretch, take on a biomimetic approach on the structure of the body, protecting and embracing the muscular structures of the wearer. Reflective fabrics and trims in feather light weights are presented alongside

high-tenacity fabrics that utilize micro fine steel-strength aramid fibres.

Intelligent interfaces on the technical or face of fabric improve performance and protection for activities such as swimming, running and triathlons, offering water repellence, UV protection and quick drying.

retro classicfibres, yarns & finishes

• Key functions include: cool touch, moisture management, UV protection

• High performance polyester and nylon feature

• Man-made fibres – lyocell, modal

• Silver, zinc and copper yarns and finishes for well-being benefits

• Cool touch technology

• Coloured coatings

• Retro-inspired trims and accessories

• Spongey double knits

• Classic interlock

• Functional stretch membranes feature on second layers for those summer showers

• Comfort and power stretch in wovens

target markets

• Beach sport

• Yoga, pilates – natural touch technicity

• Golf, tennis

• Running – UV protection, cooling technology and moisture management key to this sector

• Outdoors

• Travel

• Active intimate apparel and socks

• Soft equipment – backpacks

RETRO

TRADITIONAL

NATURAL

MULTI FUNCTIONALITY

COMFORT

EASYWEAR

DIRECTIONS BY


Materials and trims feature renewed luminosity, lustre and brightness of lustre. The brilliance of yarns and the luxurious feel of the fabric, scintillating materials and trims in this sector act like a magnet, standing out among the crowd.

Compact fabrics with glossy substrates boast more textured constructions and optical prints colliding function with fashion.

While lacquered looks and overall brilliance emerge, functionality is a must. Continue with cool touch, UV protection, high compression, moisture management and thermal regulating ingredients as the basics.

lustre allurefibres, yarns & finishes

• UV protection

• High performance nylon

• Super chlorine resistant spandex/elastane

• Reflective yarns, prints and transfers

• Iridescent yarns

• Metallic coatings, transfers and prints

• Traditional foil prints

• Gleaming trims – new gold, titanium

• Transparent plastic trims

• High stretch jacquards

• Compact and textured surfaces

• Eye-catching optical prints

target markets

• Athleisure – glamor

• Lifestyle/urban

• Hiking

• Beach sports apparel and swimwear surfers style

• Stylish workout wear with high levels of performance

• Aerobic classes – dry or aqua

• Spin classes – soul cycle

• Fitness swimming and aqua zumba, aqua fitness, aqua spin

ATTRACTION

APPEAL

BRIGHT

ENTICING

ILLUSION

LUSTRE

SCINTILLATION

DIRECTIONS BY


Sustainability, a key staple across the textile and fashion industry, takes centre stage in this theme, placing an emphasis on the partnership between new generation synthetics, natural and man-made fibres and how they can be mixed together to create a win-win situation. Ingredients from different sectors marry for a synergetic approach giving rise to a certain level of hybridization among fabrics.

A strong use of natural fibres from BCI cotton, pima cotton, and merino wool as well as the luxury application of silk feature high in this trend. The application of Lyocell and micro modal deliver a soft touch. Opting for a selection of these ingredients in a blend, would create new variations with a strong sustainable stance for all sectors of the market.

hybrid synergyfibres, yarns & finishes• Hemp and linen in refined yarns for a grainy aspect

• The inherent function of merino wool in terms of thermal regulation and comfort for the Spring/Summer season

• Micro modal, lyocell and silk for added softness

• Moisture management and anti-bacterial

• Recycled nylon and polyester

• Nano membranes for DWR

• Bio-based spandex/elastane and eco-friendly spandex/elastane

• Built-in performance yarns – moisture management, UV protection, anti-bacterial, cooling

• Reduced water and energy consumption for a sustainable aspect in finishing and dyeing

• Lightweight Spring/Summer insulation

• High colour longevity and brilliance from synthetic and spandex yarns when blended with natural yarns

• Double sided knits – natural/synthetic

• Waterproof, windproof, breathable laminates and membranes

• Texturized synthetic yarns with a cotton touch and built-in performance

• Waterproof seamless transfers for added details

• Lightweight double-sided fabrics with contrasting colour and texture

target markets• Water sports – surfing, kite surfing, kayaking and windsurfing• Athleisure/lifestyle, urban cycling, outdoors, yoga• Soft sports, ZSoft equipment – tents, sleeping bags,

backpacks, shoes

HYBRIDIZE

FRESH

SYNERGY

TACTILE

HARMONY

TEAM EFFORT

DIRECTIONS BY


Weightlessness come alive from micro fine hosiery-inspired knits to micro light trims and accessories. A pure techno sports trend, where the wearer doesn’t feel the weight of the garment and/or equipment accessories, yet the micro light, next-gen fabrics aid in the achievement.

Cool touch, compression, UV protection and anti-bacterial elements are key to this theme which deliver barely ‘there’ fabrics improving performance. Engineered fabrics that focus on body mapping specific functions into key areas in the

fabric constriction provides a greater sense of seamlessness and protection to the body, where micro-encapsulated yarns serve to create a perfect workout experience.

exactitudefibres, yarns & finishes• Micro fibre synthetics with permanent performance –

moisture management, cool touch, UV protection, anti-bacterial, quick dry

• High powered spandex/elastane for second skin compression and core stability support

• Power stretch spandex/elastane – super chlorine resistant

• Dye-able polypropylene for micro light knits

• Iridescent yarns

• Metalloplastic yarns

• Trims and accessories take on a super smooth finish

• Thermochromatic yarns and transfer prints

• Reflective technology – yarns, prints and finishes

• Day-glo trims and yarns

• Day-glo silicone prints and trims

• Phosphorescent micro fine yarns

• Clean cut technology and laser cutting – perfect for heat seam bonding or clean hem finishing

• Patina surfaces through yarn content or finish

target markets• Track cycling, running

• Marathon & triathlon, athletics

• Fitness & gym apparel and soft equipment

• Active intimate apparel and bodywear

• Cross training and cardio classes

• Wearable technology

CRISP

PERFECTION

PRECISION

FEATHERWEIGHT

AMBITIOUS

NEXT GENERATION

DIRECTIONS BY


LET’S CROCHET

Kitschy with a soupçon of DIY, crocheted tops and dresses are the core of music festival fashion, inversely becoming a vacation essential in the same pursuit. While some brands like Alexander McQueen played up the multi-colour crafty grandma factor of the style, there is an interesting shift towards converting this knitted wonder into a deceptively serious fabric. While Balmain and Moschino played the crochet game in multicolour, Valentino and Peter Pilotto offered great dresses in solid colours with accented detailing.

PYJAMA PLAYER

We always talk about hitting that snooze button every morning so to help us catch the lost sleep that goes into outfit planning, designers have

completely eliminated the whole fiasco. From coats that look exactly like bathrobes and striped pyjama sets in soft sleepy blues or blush pink, there is a nightwear option for every sleepy head. Therefore, whether you prefer starched whites that can go from bedroom to boardroom as seen at Protagonist and Tibi or Miu Miu’s lively printed styles, there is a pyjama in store for every party.

LUXE ON

TRACK

Health and fitness will be the key drivers of luxury in the coming years as personal well-being takes centre stage. To tap into experience economy’s obsession with athleisure, tracksuits are upgrading into an almost bourgeoisie territory with sleek cuts and technical fabrics. Whether you want to get drinks at the country club or just need to look like an elegant marathoner, cruise collections have you covered. Fendi and Off-White presented chic work out appropriate sets but Maison Margiela’s version could be easily incorporated into a trendy work wardrobe.

T O P 1 0 T R E N D S F R O M R E S O R T 2 0 1 7 C O L L E C T I O N S

SUNNY SIDE UP!

FASHION BUSINESS

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PALE PINK

Pink is easily the new black, and resort collections are in absolute agreement, but how is cruise pink different from Spring/Summer’s haughty fuchsia? As is the case with most of the resort wear styles, the collections are dripping in a more subdued, paler pink and this proves that a colour does not always have to be super ‘in your face’ to be impactful. Say hey to new age feminism in adolescent pink pieces from Delpozo, Bally and Roksanda celebrating girlhood in all its glory.

PRAIRIE QUEEN

We are not sure if designers are referencing Little House on the Prairie or they are just shouting out to the new cult favourite, Stranger Things but the romantic eeriness of prairie chic is back in vogue. A strongly feminine combination of ditzy florals, tomboyish ginghams, conservative hems and necklines is getting a modern working girl update. From Calvin Klein and Giambattista

If you think about it, resort wear is the best of both worlds because it is inherently summer clothing dotted abundantly with plentiful cover up options in the same bag. While the resort wear shows are long over, the trends are only just ripening up for our perusal. Thanks to the millennial approved globalization of wanderlust and a focus on wellness as the new form of luxury, resort clothing is now more relevant than it has ever been.

Cruise wear this season is refreshingly clean and relaxed with a scent of sci-fi dropped in the mix. While most trends echo a common sentiment of luxury loungewear, we can definitely spot influences from the more urbane streetwear scene like racer checks and stripes or military jackets. The colours oscillated from glimmering disco night to pastel vitamins making the collections not just trans-seasonal but an elemental fit for every occasion. The good life of Sunday picnics and sailing through the Caribbean blues is on everyone’s mind.

Here are the big trends going all the way from jingoistic sportswear to modern girl DIY picked up from the Resort Collections of 2017.

Valli’s more traditionalist garbs to Sonia Rykiel and Coach’s modern take on this free-spirited trend, there are bountiful options for the modern cowgirl.

RINGING BELLS

One of the more merciful throwbacks to the ’70s is the bell silhouette that starts outfitted, but goes up ballooning into the quintessentially summery bell-bottom or the more dramatic bell-sleeve. Fashion is always obsessed with movement so it is obvious that this style of flinging wrists will keep returning to inject some theatre into our wardrobes. Flaring up this love for the bells in full effect are trousers from Versace, Rosetta Getty and statement sleeves from Holly Fulton, Temperly London amongst a slew of others.

RACE COURSE

A trend that is perhaps a combination of Americana loving derby and lingering patriotism or just the race of fashion taken a bit too literally. Chessboard checks as well as the combination

FASHION BUSINESS

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FASHION BUSINESS

Industry take…Tushar Sharma, Toska Labs – “Fitness apparel is our main focus so we are doing plenty of constants like yoga or mélange pants and track suits in classic dark colours. With that being said, lighter shades of red and blue as well as paler pinks are also in demand. Even in terms of silhouette, slouchy and lounge-friendly bottoms, yoga pants with bright floral prints and heavy lycra is doing well. A very interesting new demand I have observed is of loose wrap around dresses that look very similar to bathrobes however, buyers want these constructed in a more daytime appropriate way. Another noticeable trend is of these extremely fitted tights for men which shows a new outlook at sportswear in general and its relevance beyond being just workout clothes.”

Rajiv Rathi, United Exports – “We are employing digital printing techniques to create big floral prints as well as using a lot of embroidery to achieve the textured look. Light fabrics like polyester, chiffon and georgette are looking quite popular and we are enhancing those using multicolour woollen or acrylic yarn embroideries and tassels. Prints like florals are always popular for summer collections and we are mostly doing bigger florals on white or lighter, solid colour bases. In terms of trousers, we are doing many wide, billowing harem pants. For colours, soft pastels in warm tones such as orange and yellow are the biggest hits while baby pink and blues are also going strong.”

Dhirendra Sharma, Prabal Sales – “I think with resort clients, the general trends are more or less the same as every year with some variations in prints. The silhouette is loose with wide leg pants and long ballooning sleeves that come with elastic cuffs. Solid pastels in lighter hues of yellow, orange and pinks are widespread as always. In terms of prints, big old school florals are definitely a key theme. In addition, we are using a lot of tie and dye technique in multicolours to achieve interesting patterns organically.”

of red, blue and white striping signals a fresh wave of clothing inspired from the paraphernalia of a F1 racer. An extension of the sportswear trend going beyond mere practice to dressing a luxe market of spectators. Chequered looks from Philipp Plein, Louis Vuitton or Versace’s tricoloured bomber are as suitable for a racing carnival as they are for the 4th of July parade.

LIVE TO DYE

The overall wave of colours this season oscillated between hot monochromatic to soft pastels and many designers peppered their collections with tie and dye patterns employing these colours. A technique that looks extremely light hearted because of its Do It Yourself approach and a history of gaining popularity among the happy hippies, its optimism is winning many hearts. From lightweight separates at Dsquared2 to the languid maxi dresses at Tory Burch and Zimmermann, this technique is on its way to becoming a lounge wear favourite.

TIER NOT

TIRED

If a vacation in Spain or anywhere on the Caribbean is on cards, we know some frills and ruffles cannot be foregone from the packing list. The multi-layered skirt is just the grown up take on an overbearing ruffle mania rage, while ruffles may not work for everyone because of its superfluous femininity but tiers strike balance without getting boring. For a serious urge to twirl,

head on to Prabal Gurung or Normal Kamali’s colourful gowns or go crazy in Chanel’s white lacy layers of frolic.

BRIGHTLY TRENCHED

A timeless classic gets a cheerful update; the trench coat is not just getting lighter but is getting unfurled in wildly bright colours like sunny yellows and orange. A cruise collection would make no sense without some transitional outerwear options but it does not have to be lacklustre. Animated trench coats are channelling the overall youthful and sprightly attitude of the season, and indulging your need for pure hedonism are pieces from Edun, Fendi and Tibi in buttery yellow.

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This season looks a lot like everyone is in the mood to party, and with good reason given how 2016 got it all twisted. Designers and high fashion labels sent spangly, glittery pieces clad on petite silhouettes down their runways for Spring/Summer 2017.

Seemingly taking over athleisure, we saw glittering palettes and sparkling sequins featuring over skirts, dresses, jackets and even pantsuits.

Dolce & Gabbana and Alessandro Michele at Gucci, presented statement-making sequined styles that shimmered like disco balls reflecting

under the lights. Dion Lee’s sequined dresses took on an athleisure vibe, while Monse offered an off-the-shoulder design with over-the-knee side slits. Designers paid tribute to an old-school flapper-style glamour, whilst modernizing the trend with respect to everyday ready-to-wear clothing for the approaching season.

FASHION FILE

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While Thakoon and Tom Ford have bid farewell to ‘see now, buy now’, the strategy seems to be working out exceptionally well for the digitally forward Rebecca Minkoff. The company is laying off employees working on wholesale operations and hiring people that align better with its current strategy of building a seamless e-commerce base. The restructure will support direct retail in physical stores and online, which accounts for 60 per cent of the business. Rebecca cites a strong customer loyalty as well as the exciting experiences they provide via gutsy marketing initiatives as a big fuel to their growth. Staying ahead of the curve, the company also plans to add more production in Europe and domestically to counter Trump’s potential TPP tax code and be able to design under shorter deadlines.

AZZARO names Maxime Simoens as its Artistic Director

Rebecca Minkoff increases focus on ‘see now, buy now' strategy

In an effort to marry social media’s curation features and e-commerce’s instant shopping ability, Instagram is adding ‘tap to view’ tags with product details that directly link you to the site to make your purchase. The feature that made its test debut in November to just 20 brands is now poised to place Instagram at the centre of retail marketing and will significantly boost brand engagement. Retail insights gathered from the same will also help in understanding popular product assortments. Instagram’s Director of Product Marketing Jim Squires said, “The more posts with shopping tags in them, the more likely someone is to engage, so people are looking for products and this experience is helping them to learn more and hopefully make those purchases.”

Instagram expands ‘tap to view' shopping tags

FASHION RESOURCE

Celebrating their 50th anniversary, French fashion house Azzaro has appointed designer Maxime Simoens as its Artistic Director who will oversee couture collections, ready-to-wear and accessories. With a meritorious education from Chambre Syndicale de la Couture and an experience of having worked at Jean-Paul Gaultier, Elie Saab, Dior and Balenciaga, he is famous for bringing fluidity coupled with perversely architectural silhouettes as well as working on polarising contrasts in his work. Simoens succeeds Arnaud Maillard and Alvaro Castejón who left in 2016 and will present his first collection during the Paris Couture Week in July. Alongside the new role, Simoens will continue operating his personal label called M.X Paris, which he just relaunched as an accessible and only-menswear brand.


Textiles Minister Smriti Irani inaugurating the Advanced Textiles Plant of Welspun India Ltd. at Anjar, Kutch (Gujarat)

Namit Jain (R), Partner, Kay Jain Processors with Samir Jain, MD of Shraman Inter Knits, Ludhiana – the company deals in knitting machines

INDUSTRY WIRE

Welspun India establishes its Advanced Textiles Plant

Kay Jain Processors focusing on open width knit fabric

Textiles Minister Smriti Irani recently inaugurated

the Advanced Textiles Plant of Welspun India Ltd., India’s leading textile conglomerate at Anjar, Kutch (Gujarat). With the inauguration of the plant, Welspun – placed amongst the largest home textile manufacturers in the world – has forayed into new technologies in its technical textile business. With an investment of Rs. 150 crore, the plant will have unique capabilities of Spun Lace and Needle Punch lines which can manufacture multilayer composites for various applications. It also invested Rs. 100 crore in a fully automated cut and sew unit in the made-ups segment which has a capacity of 10 million units per annum.

This advanced and innovative technology will provide non-woven solutions for high-end

Ludhiana-based Kay Jain Processors, part of BG Group,

which is solely committed to quality services for its consumers, is now venturing into the open width knit fabric segment which is gaining huge popularity in Ludhiana. BG Group is into knitted fabrics, value added apparels (menswear) and bed linens.

The company has almost completed the process to install open width compactor and six chamber stenter for knitting, dyeing and finishing process with an investment of US $ 1 million. The new setup will be fully operational in the next few months. Namit Jain, Partner of the company told Apparel Online, “We already have a setup for the finishing of tubular fabric, now our focus is also on open width fabric as its demand is growing multifold. We have knitting and complete processing of the same. I feel that this is the best time to invest for future as lean period is the best time to expand further.”

industrial applications such as filtration, acoustics, automotive, fire safety, thermal insulation, vibration control, noise control, aerospace, defence and mass transportation, informed the company. The group is taking a leap forward in medical and advanced textiles. BK Goenka, Chairman, Welspun Group, said, “The new facility will

Currently the company has production capacity of 5,000 kilograms per day (cotton and polyester cotton fabric) and it will be 8,000 kilograms per day after the expansion. The organization consumes 50 per cent of the total production of fabrics. Around 60 per cent of its garment production is for overseas market

enhance our product offerings and provide cutting-edge solutions in high-growth areas such as industrial and defence applications. They strengthen Welspun’s position as a global manufacturer and underline our commitment to the ‘Make in India’ initiative as well as the economic development of the region and the country at large.”

like US, South Africa, Germany and Middle East nations such as Kuwait and Dubai. Most of its buyers are wholesalers and importers.

“If things work according to our planning, I am sure our business will double in the next two to three years,” concluded Namit.

Dutch Blue Fashions adding a new factory

Tirupur-based 25 years old company, Dutch Blue Fashions, is moving forward under the leadership of Seethar Babu, the Owner. The company is in the process of adding a new factory of 150 stitching machines. Majorly manufacturing kidswear apart from some amount of ladieswear, the company currently has 100 machines and is exporting its products to Germany and The Netherlands.

Frank, GM – Production of the company stated, “We have good demand from our existing buyers and we are also adding few new clients. Construction for the new factory, built in 2 acres of land, is complete and has a production area of 24,000 square feet. For this, we are exploring new technologies/advanced machines in stitching.”

Vella Sports looking for expansion

Meerut-based Vella Sports is further expanding its production capacity, adding in-house socks manufacturing and also willing to enter in export. Producing entire range of sportswear like tees, track suits and lowers etc., the company has a strong reach in textiles as it has its own powerlooms too. “We are into this industry since the last 9 years and are known for our quality. As we are enthusiastic about the market, we are coming up with a new plant which will enhance our capacity in a good way,” told Ashish Dudeja, Partner of the company.

The company, currently into the domestic market, will explore overseas opportunities too as Ashish said that after the expansion, his organization will have huge capacities and export market is full of opportunities. In long term, it does have plans to start manufacturing of accessories like buttons and zippers. Talking about UP, he added that lack of electricity and high cost of electricity are the main concerns for manufacturers like him.


Rakesh Kumar, Executive Director of the Export Promotion Council for Handicrafts (EPCH) has been honoured as true champions of the exhibition industry. Kumar was honoured with the title ‘The Iron Man’ of the Exhibition Industry for 2016 during Exhibition Excellence Awards held on 18 March 2017 at India Expo Centre & Mart. Many organisers of the exhibitions and events and leading service partners were on the dais to celebrate the achievements of the year 2016. In a statement issued by the EPCH, Kumar said, “Exhibitions and conventions are the catalysts to an economy’s growth.”

The Executive Director of the Council has contributed immensely towards promotion of not only the handicrafts sector but also the exhibition industry by creating state-of-the art exhibition infrastructure – India Expo Centre & Mart at Greater Noida

the world’s largest congregation of handicrafts exhibitors under one roof.

EPCH was also declared winner under the Largest Trade Show Category and Grand Show Category. It has been organizing IHGF-Delhi Fair since its inception in 1994, and has made significant contribution to

Expressway, that has witnessed successful organization of Auto Expo, an annual meeting of Asian Development Bank, conferences of CII and Renewable Energy, apart from its own world’s largest fair entitled IHGF-Delhi Fair which has been recognized by Limca Book of World Records as

the handicrafts trade from India. “It (IHGF) has not only enabled Indian exporters in large numbers to participate in the show and secure orders but also enabled foreign buyers to source their requirement from India at one place, and at one time under one roof. One of the most important roles played by the IHGF has been the increase in the foreign exchange earnings beside employment generation for the sector for the country,” stated Kumar.

Exhibition Excellence Awards is India’s only initiative to provide visibility and recognition to the Exhibition & MICE (Meetings, Incentives, Conferences, and Events) Industry. The event was supported by the Ministry of Skill Development & NSIC, Indian Exhibition Industry Association, Indian Exhibition Services Association and Indian Industries Association.

EPCH honoured with Exhibition Excellence Awards

INDIA CANVAS

Rakesh Kumar, ED – EPCH being declared ‘The Iron Man’ of Exhibition Industry for 2016


Commerce and Industry Minister Nirmala Sitharaman has launched the Trade Infrastructure for Export Scheme (TIES) focused on addressing the needs of the exporters. “The focus is not just to create infrastructure but to make sure that it is professionally run and sustained,” said the Minister while launching the scheme. There will be an Empowered Committee to periodically review the progress of the approved projects in the scheme and it will take necessary steps to ensure achievement of the objectives of the scheme. She said that the proposals of the implementing

Textile and apparel industry of Tamil Nadu is happy with the State Budget as there is no new tax, and reasonable amount is given for infrastructure and skill development. D Jayakumar, Finance Minister of Tamil Nadu, presented the 2017-18 budget in the Assembly. Welcoming the move, TEA President Raja M Shanmugham said that people will get benefit after implementation of

constituted for this scheme to be chaired by the Commerce Secretary. While appraising the project, the justification, including the intended benefits in terms of addressing the specific export bottlenecks would be evaluated.

“The scheme would provide assistance for setting up and the upgradation of infrastructure projects with overwhelming export linkages, like the border haats, land customs stations, quality testing and certification labs, cold chains, trade promotion centres, dry ports, export warehousing

agencies for funding will be considered by an Inter-Ministerial Empowered Committee especially

the schemes announced in the budget. “The allocation of Rs. 2,000 crore for the Tamil Nadu Infrastructure Development Fund (TNIDF) would be helpful for the development of the infrastructure which is the need of the hour for the industry,” he added.

The President also welcomed the allocation of Rs. 150 crore for the Tamil Nadu Skill Development Mission to train one lakh youth

and also intends to seek assistance from the Government of India which helps the industry to recruit the skilled workforce and pave the way for increasing the productivity and efficiency. Besides, Shanmugham hailed the proposal to strengthen the single window system in the Tamil Nadu Industries Guidance and Export Promotion Bureau further by making it online so that investors can get all approvals expeditiously in a hassle-free manner at one place.

While noting down the allocation of Rs. 532 crore for MSME sector in the budget, Shanmugham specifically lauded the doubling of allocation of capital subsidy to MSME units from Rs. 80 crore to Rs.160 crore which will be helpful for MSME units in Tirupur, as more than 80 per cent of total units in the region are under MSME categories.

If reports are to be believed, then India’s apparel market is expected to note a three-fold rise from US $ 59 billion in 2015 to US $ 180 billion by 2025, while China is also expected to lead the market at US $ 615 billion by 2025, growing at a compounded annual growth rate (CAGR) of 10 per cent as compared to US $ 237 billion in 2015. Indian apparel market will emerge as the fastest growing, expanding at a CAGR of 11.8 per cent, besides the consumption will also go up.

This has been stated in a global textile report by Axis Direct – a brand under which Axis Securities Limited offers its retail broking and investment services. Apparel market in China is expected to expand at a CAGR of 10 per cent as compared to US $ 237 billion in 2015. The report has also predicted that India and China may cross Europe and US in terms of consumption by 2025. India and China are jointly expected to use apparel worth US $ 795 billion, growing by a CAGR of 10 per cent.

Nirmala Sitharaman, Commerce and Industry Minister

and packaging, SEZs and ports/airports cargo terminuses,” said Commerce Secretary Rita Teaotia.

The Central and State agencies, including Export Promotion Councils, Commodities Boards, SEZ Authorities and Apex Trade Bodies, recognized under the EXIM policy of Government of India, are eligible for financial support under this scheme. The implementing agencies shall provide details of the financing tie-ups for the projects which will be considered before approval of the project. Disbursement of funds shall be done after financial closure is achieved.

Government launches Trade Infrastructure for Export Scheme

TN Budget grants Rs. 2,000 cr. for infrastructure, Rs. 150 cr. for skill development

Indian apparel market to grow three-fold by 2025

INDIA CANVAS

D Jayakumar, Finance Minister, Tamil Nadu


Across India, many apparel exporters have reasonable share

in the domestic market or are creating their reach in the domestic arena. In fact, since the last few years, it has been a growing trend. On the other hand, there are few companies who were earlier into the domestic market and were working with good brands, but now they are focusing on overseas market. Ludhiana based Khanna Knitwears and Exports is a perfect example in this regard. More than 4 decades old, this company, having exposure of working with most of the top Indian as well as international brands selling in India, is now totally into export. Apparel Online talked about the reasons, difficulties and achievements of this turnaround with Sumit Khanna, Second Generation Director of the company which is 100 per cent EOU as of now.

Taking the legacy of his father further, Sumit joined business in 1995 and contributed to the development of his company by starting work with big brands and retail chains such as Wrangler, Benetton, Max, Lifestyle, Shoppers Stop, Pantaloons, Big Bazaar and many more. Apart from this, some amount of export also began but the core market share of the company was in these brands. Currently doing an annual business of Rs. 19.5 crore, the company has a production capacity of more than 70,000 and 40,000 pieces of T-shirts and sweaters per month, respectively. It started its export business with Dubai, Muscat and Kuwait, but later went on to add UK, US and Europe. Gulf countries do have 50 per cent

share in the company’s export. In the last three years, the company has completely converted itself into exports only. What were the reasons that pushed Sumit to focus only on exports? He informed, “We stopped working in domestic market due to various reasons like change in weather, less demand of winterwear, sourcing of products by brands at cheaper rates from other countries and lack of commitment from domestic buyers. All these things were creating difficulties for us at every step of our business which made us change our focus to export where we had a very nominal share at that time.”

For Sumit, this shifting was not a cakewalk, as assumed to be, especially during 2009 when global recession was forcing international buyers/retailers to consolidate. “We had some experience of export, despite that things were difficult, especially to find buyers who can feed us according to our product specialization. We approached buying agents/agencies and supported them with our best support. We were continuously participating in sourcing fairs too,” he added. The challenges were at the internal level be it in case of timely delivery, strong quality parameters, and to overcome these, the company used 70-80 per cent of its own capacity and this really worked for them. The organization also changed its ‘chalta hai’ mindset to achieve a standard quality level. Coating was another issue which it tackled with lesser margin. “I strongly feel that this is the better way to work rather than depending on job work and struggle to

complete big orders compared to one’s own capacity,” says Sumit. In spite of facing losses initially, he continued in a strong, consistent way and once he got the buyers’ ways, there was nothing which could not be sorted out anymore.

Now looking back, Sumit feels that this move was completely in the right decision and the company is also moving in the right direction. “From my experience, I have found that working with international clients is much easier than working with domestic clients. There are no payment issues and they are strict to their commitments. Even payment cycles are better in export. Better order sizes and less style experimentation are also something that we enjoyed in export. Now I have lesser involvement in my factory just because of working for export markets. I and my entire staff learnt a lot while working for export but in domestic market, we had earnings only rather than learning. Most of the domestic brands are still not working on things like colour forecast,” he concluded.

• It is not that we have absolutely closed the gates or will not work for Indian brands/domestic markets, but we need strong commitment and good price.

• In the exports domain, we work with 15 to 18 buyers and have better understanding with them.

• Even countries like Nepal are supplying to top Indian brands and Nepalese workers have better mindset that helps in maintaining quality production.

• Domestic or export markets are always buyer-driven but there is a difference at the planning level in both the markets.

ESSENTIALS

A Turnaround from Domestic to 100% EOU

K H A N N A K N I T W E A R S A N D E X P O R T S

INDIA CANVAS

Sumit Khanna, Second Generation Director of the company


BEYOND INDIA

Bangladesh Government has formed a tripartite consultative council for the readymade garment (RMG) sector of the country. Representatives from workers, employers and the Government will be members of the council, who will be responsible for review of overall labour situation of the RMG sector and apprise the Government of the situation.

This consultative council will remain valid until further order of the Government, and will also advise the Government about the laws, rules and regulations, policies and plans relating to the labour of the RMG sector. The council, formed to review the labour

An MoU has been signed between Archroma, a global leader in colour and speciality chemicals, and Ethical Affair, a knowledge-based platform striving to provide training, skills development and technical assistance to women

the Commerce Ministry, Home Ministry, Textile and Jute Ministry, Foreign Ministry and Labour and Employment Ministry will represent the Government side while there

Affair. Women Entrepreneurs will be provided a tool kit in areas such as technical know-how pertaining to textiles from initial to final stage, international textile market features, sustainability development, or understanding cost and value creation for local and foreign markets.

situation and its development time to time in the country’s RMG sector, will hold meetings at least thrice annually.

The council will suggest measures to be implemented for developing RMG employers-workers relations and increasing productivity considering the country’s existing overall socio-economic situation.

State Minister for Labour and Employment M Mujibul Haque and the Ministry’s Deputy Secretary (Labour) will act as President and Member Secretary of the Council. Secretary to the Labour and Employment Ministry and one representative (Joint Secretary level and above) from

entrepreneurs in Pakistan textile industry.

The MoU signed in the port city of Karachi will allow Archroma to play a pivotal role in imparting technical know-how, training and re-training through active platform of Ethical

will be six representatives each from different organizations of the employers and the workers from the sides of the employers and the workers.

“Empowering women entrepreneurs to enter into the mainstream will certainly add value coupled with creativity for the textile industry. Women are already taking initiatives in establishing their own businesses especially in the last five years. What they presently ask for is technical training and hands on experience,” said Mujtaba Rahim, CEO of Archroma Pakistan, in a statement issued by the organization.

“At Archroma Center of Excellence in Karachi, women will be able to learn to apply textile dyes and chemicals suited for their purpose. Their innovation can turn into success stories beyond expectation,” added Shaheen Khan, President of Ethical Affair.

Bangladesh Government forms council for RMG sector

Archroma to provide technical expertise to women entrepreneurs in Pakistan

“At Archroma Center of Excellence in Karachi, women will be able to learn to apply textile dyes and chemicals suited for their purpose.” Shaheen Khan, President of Ethical Affair




BEYOND INDIA

The European Union (EU) and Vietnam have signed the Free Trade Agreement (FTA) in December of 2015. However, the European Parliament and the legislatures of all EU members have still not approved the agreement for it to take effect.

The EU-Vietnam Partnership is based on the respect of human rights and democratic principles, yet the FTA is being fast-tracked with hardly any attention on human rights.

The Government in Vietnam faces pressure from European lawmakers to improve its human rights record, especially with regard to the conditions existing in garment factories. The dismal working conditions and low pay have been the cause of labour agony in many industries – prominent being the footwear and textile industry.

There are no independent trade unions in Vietnam and the right to strike is severely restricted, even prohibited, in many sectors. The majority of workers in garment sector are women and their condition too leaves a lot to be desired. The European Parliament recently sent its Subcommittee on Human Rights on a fact-finding trip to Vietnam. The committee called on Vietnamese officials to allow more debate on political rights and freedom of expression and religion.

Nearly a year ago, the French group Worldwide Movement for Human Rights accused the EU of failing to study the impact that the trade agreement would have on human rights. Fredrick Burke of Baker & McKenzie says Vietnam’s FTA with the EU is not as strong on human rights as the TPP.

‘Human Rights' factor may hold back EU-Vietnam FTAThe Vietnam Ministry of Industry

and Trade (MOIT) has drafted a new national technical regulation on limitation and inspection of content of formaldehyde and of aromatic amines derived from azo colourants in textile products. The new regulation applies to all textile manufacturers and importers in the Vietnam market.

Textile products for children under 36 months of age must not contain more than 30 mg/kg formaldehyde. Textile products in direct skin contact should not exceed 75 mg/kg formaldehyde. The maximum limit of formaldehyde in textile products without direct skin contact is 300 mg/kg, while for

The Sri Lanka Apparel Exporters Association (SLAEA) has urged the Sri Lankan Government to abolish the Simplified Suspended Value Added Tax (SVAT) scheme or exempt the apparel industry from the tax.

According to SLAEA, recent figures pertaining to FDI were not great partly due to the fact that the ease of doing business in the country was bad as exporters indulged in more bank borrowings in the short term. It may be noted that the apparel exporters were previously exempted from Value Added Tax.

Though the country could no longer depend on the apparel exports industry as countries like Bangladesh which had cheaper labour were more competitive in the apparel export sector and

aromatic amines, it is 30 mg/kg. The content of aromatic amines derived from azo colourants on textile products shall be determined in accordance with ISO 24362-1:2014, Textiles – Methods for determination of certain aromatic amines derived from azo colourants and ISO 24362-3:2014, Textiles – Methods for determination of certain aromatic amines derived from azo colourants or; EN 14362-1:2012, Textiles – Methods for determination of certain aromatic amines derived from azo colourants and EN 14362-3:2012, Textiles – Methods for determination of certain aromatic amines derived from azo colourants.

market, it could on the other hand capitalize on being internationally recognized in terms of quality and delivery, as per Felix Fernando, Chairman, SLAEA. He emphasized that the labour would have to be trimmed down by 20 per cent.

“In terms of products and styles, it is advisable for us to make more and more value additions. Factories may close, yet more revenue must be earned from the limited number of factory complexes. Hong Kong has the hub concept. Sri Lanka too can be a sourcing hub as buyers have recognized the open market. Elsewhere, there must be definite modernization and industrialization in terms of technology and machinery. Capital allowances can be invested in it.

Vietnam Government drafts new technical regulation on textiles

Sri Lanka apparel industry needs to modernize technology: SLAEA


Regaining in December, will clothing imports by EU maintain the momentum in 2017?

J a n u a r y - D e c e m b e r 2 0 1 6Continuing the rise from November, EU’s clothing imports have strongly consolidated in the month of December. The full year import data is reflecting a rebound in the clothing demand from the EU buyers after the euro has stopped falling from a year earlier. Despite ups and downs in EU economy throughout 2016 after ‘BREXIT’, Europe managed to continue to be an attractive market for exporters from the developing countries driven by the reputation and global reach of the European clothing brands. Thus, the year 2017 is projected to be a positive year as far as clothing imports are concerned which will gain momentum especially due to the rise of e-commerce shopping.

5.53%

Total Increase in Quantity

0.22%

Total Increase in Value

[The information has been extracted from EU custom site and further analyzed.]

Global apparel imports by the EU during Jan.-Dec. 2016

Percentage Decrease in UVR

4.98%Average UVR in 2016 was Euro

17.33 per kg of fabric equivalent

EU’s imports record boost in ladies blouses categoryIn the year 2016, imports of ladies blouses by EU registered growth of 10.45% in volumes, while value was up by 1.87%. During the review period India, Bangladesh and Vietnam also registered positive trend in the export of ladies blouses to EU.

1India and Vietnam keep on growing in legwear exports to EUYear-on-year, exports of legwear by Vietnam registered commendable growth of 166.05% in volumes, while values were up by a massive 61.48%. India too recorded gains of 29.09% in value and 36.51% in volume during period.

2

EXPORT STATISTICS

Change in Knitted

Quantity6.56%

Value0.26%

Quantity4.22%

Value0.18%

Change in Woven

Apparel imports of the EU: Selected Countries (Qty in mn Kg & Value in mn Euro)

Country/CategoryJan.-Dec. 2015 Jan.-Dec. 2016 % increase / decrease

Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value

WORLD

Knitted 2474.89 40332.95 2637.26 40439.05 6.56 0.26

Woven 1952.67 40440.55 2035.08 40515.25 4.22 0.18

Total 4427.57 80773.50 4672.33 80954.29 5.53 0.22

CHINA

Knitted 899.89 13996.95 912.78 12861.64 1.43 -8.11

Woven 859.49 15966.01 860.59 14847.57 0.13 -7.01

Total 1759.38 29962.96 1773.37 27709.21 0.80 -7.52

INDIA

Knitted 148.71 2567.45 161.27 2598.63 8.45 1.21

Woven 98.20 2566.15 100.06 2529.08 1.89 -1.44

Total 246.91 5133.59 261.33 5127.71 5.84 -0.11

BANGLADESH

Knitted 623.64 8054.90 695.82 8612.19 11.58 6.92

Woven 352.16 5664.82 395.99 6256.93 12.45 10.45

Total 975.80 13719.72 1091.81 14869.12 11.89 8.38

SRI LANKA

Knitted 47.81 932.75 54.35 881.08 13.69 -5.54

Woven 28.69 657.02 24.55 576.75 -14.43 -12.22

Total 76.50 1589.77 78.90 1457.84 3.14 -8.30

PAKISTAN

Knitted 88.13 964.36 99.76 1078.87 13.20 11.87

Woven 91.27 1317.19 99.26 1378.43 8.76 4.65

Total 179.40 2281.55 199.02 2457.30 10.94 7.70

VIETNAM

Knitted 38.59 791.69 42.59 915.42 10.36 15.63

Woven 86.20 2013.07 88.79 2079.92 3.01 3.32

Total 124.79 2804.76 131.38 2995.35 5.28 6.80


Men’s shirts export by China tumbles both in volume and valueChina registered downfall in exports in men’s shirts category to the EU. Decrease in values was recorded by (-) 16.62% while volume was down by (-) 11.24%. During the period, India too registered downfall of (-) 4.08% in value while volume fell by (-) 1.28%.

EU registers rise in its import of trousersEU noted increase in trousers import in volume which witnessed a rise of 5.23%, whereas values rose by 1.17% during the period under review. India, Bangladesh and Vietnam contributed positive data to EU, though China was down in its export of the same.

Ladies dresses: A surging export category for Bangladesh Continuing the positive trend, ladies dresses export by Bangladesh to EU witnessed yet another notable response. Values during the review period were up by 35.11% while volumes saw an increase by 39.88%.

Vietnam sees growth in undergarments export to EUUndergarments export to EU heightened from Vietnam as the country noted upswing in its value by a solid 64.28%, while the volume too saw an increase by 56.72% year-on-year.

India’s babies wear export to EU strengthensIndia noted surge in its babies wear exports to EU as value-wise India was up by 14.36%, while in volume, the rise was by 25.23% during the review period.

Bangladesh rises in its jackets & blazers exports to EUBangladesh saw an increase in its jackets & blazers exports to EU in both value and volume. The country registered 32.59% growth in volume, whereas values were up by 33.10%.

3 6

5 8

4 7

EXPORT STATISTICS

Item-wise quantity increase/decrease in apparel imports by EU: Jan.-Dec. 2016 (Qty in mn kg)

Item-wise value increase/decrease in apparel imports by EU: Jan.-Dec. 2016 (Value in mn Euro)

APPAREL TYPETotal Imports by EU

Exports to EU

China India Bangladesh Vietnam

2015 2016 % Change 2015 2016 % Change 2015 2016 % Change 2015 2016 % Change 2015 2016 % Change

Babies Wear 118.10 123.28 4.39 51.63 47.97 -7.10 15.19 19.02 25.23 28.45 29.82 4.79 1.14 1.16 1.17Foundation Garments 52.66 53.35 1.31 33.81 33.02 -2.34 0.28 0.33 15.35 4.39 5.57 27.01 1.33 1.58 18.47

Jackets & Blazers 115.84 124.14 7.17 62.80 65.48 4.27 2.19 2.57 17.72 7.50 9.94 32.59 9.56 9.64 0.90Ladies Blouses 103.86 114.71 10.45 31.44 34.66 10.24 20.40 22.80 11.77 13.31 15.99 20.17 4.80 5.12 6.57Ladies Dresses 154.60 167.78 8.53 63.60 65.13 2.40 20.21 20.28 0.32 13.63 19.07 39.88 4.02 4.69 16.68Ladies Skirts 46.96 45.97 -2.11 16.61 17.49 5.26 4.17 3.40 -18.37 6.96 7.03 1.09 1.52 1.53 0.39Legwear 185.85 200.39 7.83 94.82 102.96 8.59 1.63 2.22 36.51 1.97 1.97 -0.05 0.26 0.69 166.05Men's Shirts 271.44 270.09 -0.50 51.78 45.96 -11.24 24.83 24.51 -1.28 101.24 107.35 6.03 10.95 11.06 1.03Nightwear 153.14 159.61 4.23 66.22 65.89 -0.49 25.27 27.20 7.62 22.28 25.47 14.30 3.10 2.59 -16.44Suits / Ensembles 45.70 46.16 1.01 27.54 26.42 -4.09 1.88 1.83 -2.54 2.16 2.69 24.63 0.66 0.56 -14.90Sweaters 558.56 596.01 6.71 230.15 232.59 1.06 12.64 12.79 1.21 150.49 172.01 14.30 7.58 7.46 -1.70Trousers 1052.50 1107.51 5.23 302.96 288.19 -4.87 37.29 40.60 8.87 299.40 338.05 12.91 33.19 34.61 4.28T-Shirts 571.35 591.44 3.52 73.83 68.71 -6.93 48.36 51.22 5.92 258.07 275.23 6.65 6.42 6.85 6.56Undergarments 102.36 109.67 7.14 46.46 47.17 1.53 14.73 15.63 6.11 17.69 21.15 19.56 0.99 1.56 56.72

APPAREL TYPETotal Imports by EU

Exports to EU

China India Bangladesh Vietnam

2015 2016 % Change 2015 2016 % Change 2015 2016 % Change 2015 2016 % Change 2015 2016 % Change

Babies Wear 2413.66 2444.13 1.26 1067.82 951.99 -10.85 348.39 398.42 14.36 497.38 518.49 4.24 28.14 26.77 -4.89Foundation Garments 1882.60 1868.00 -0.78 985.14 921.53 -6.46 18.17 18.76 3.27 160.67 187.28 16.56 67.00 89.52 33.62

Jackets & Blazers 2740.49 2753.79 0.49 1278.21 1199.15 -6.19 57.88 62.01 7.14 121.46 161.66 33.10 207.89 215.90 3.86Ladies Blouses 3208.69 3268.70 1.87 949.68 899.41 -5.29 679.04 692.52 1.99 300.35 342.04 13.88 105.99 109.00 2.84Ladies Dresses 4256.63 4333.88 1.81 1790.73 1711.61 -4.42 565.65 544.61 -3.72 213.67 288.69 35.11 91.47 101.12 10.56Ladies Skirts 1033.48 994.34 -3.79 370.79 350.91 -5.36 95.03 87.24 -8.20 101.57 104.05 2.44 29.30 30.56 4.32Legwear 1952.09 1994.90 2.19 759.81 749.36 -1.38 21.31 27.51 29.09 21.47 21.36 -0.47 4.88 7.88 61.48Men's Shirts 5580.14 5348.86 -4.14 1076.85 897.92 -16.62 553.67 531.05 -4.08 1564.68 1607.92 2.76 275.54 283.36 2.84Nightwear 1797.77 1763.17 -1.92 693.23 618.15 -10.83 321.55 321.83 0.09 258.49 285.67 10.51 28.87 26.94 -6.70Suits / Ensembles 766.48 716.96 -6.46 310.23 270.95 -12.66 34.30 33.68 -1.81 29.45 33.57 13.97 10.13 10.98 8.34Sweaters 10417.92 10299.91 -1.13 4594.66 4191.66 -8.77 238.35 225.59 -5.35 2178.74 2357.60 8.21 144.55 144.29 -0.18Trousers 17356.64 17560.24 1.17 4006.16 3467.57 -13.44 641.26 670.10 4.50 4200.12 4605.29 9.65 618.73 655.16 5.89T-Shirts 9025.28 8964.99 -0.67 1339.79 1175.17 -12.29 835.92 833.41 -0.30 2954.67 3010.60 1.89 135.26 151.16 11.75Undergarments 1356.67 1370.39 1.01 510.43 462.70 -9.35 194.26 188.34 -3.05 236.12 279.77 18.49 22.64 37.19 64.28


EXPORT STATISTICS

Quantity Value

0.99%

-12.88%

-11.43%-12.15%

0.49% 0.87%

Perc

enta

ge c

hang

e

2

0

-2

-4

-6

-8

-10

-12

-14

Knitted Woven Total

India recorded downfall in its apparel exports to Japan. Values were down by (-) 11.30% while volumes fell by (-) 5.11%, during the review period.

India ExportsContinuing the positive trend, the country witnessed surge in both value (6.03%) and volume (29.15%) in apparel exports to Japan. Though value-wise, woven exports saw decline of (-) 5.17% during the period under review.

Bangladesh Exports

During the review period, the country tumbled by (-) 2.12% in its value-wise apparel exports to Japan, though exports in volume terms noted a commendable surge of 8.07%.

Vietnam ExportsThe country stayed on setback mode in its apparel exports to Japan even at the end of 2016. Values registered a drop of (-) 16.48% while volumes were also down by (-) 1.27% year-on-year.

China Exports

2017: Will Japan be able to beat sluggishness in apparel market…?All through 2016 Japanese retail consumers weighed the balance between the short-term stability in their income and the long-term uncertainty in their economic outlook as the country witnessed turmoil in global financial markets with the Yen’s recent strength adding pressure on the market. This resulted in a drop in the value of clothing imports by 12.15% in the month of December as compared to the same period in 2015. Also, the sluggish 2016 is linked to population ageing in the country with many older consumers having little interest in keeping up with fashion trends and thus buying only as needed. In addition, mild weather in the month hurt sales of winter clothes but there are forecasts for an improvement in consumer spending in the year 2017 with a gain in online clothing retail sales.

Japan Apparel ImportsJ a n u a r y - D e c e m b e r 2 0 1 6


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were the first show organisers to bring awareness about technical textiles in India and also encourage Indian exhibitors to go to the Frankfurt and the US shows for exposure,” adds Michael.

The company had established Techtextil in 2007, with great success. Subsequently the company launched Heimtextil India and Ambiente India together and now is soon going to link technical

textiles with Texprocess through the first Texprocess Pavillion @ Techtextil India. “The reason behind launching Texprocess is that there is a need for an international show in technology. We are trying to get international technology here. Our shows are the right platform for them to be positioned in India because the market is huge,” claims Priyanka. Endorsing the view, Veronika adds, “There was a big demand for a platform such as Texprocess in India from the international manufacturers of sewing

and garment machinery because they see a rising demand for automation for more productivity.”

With global connects, supported by a local network, Messe Frankfurt gets penetration into the markets along with a credibility of getting international companies to the exhibiting country. This makes them stronger than any local shows that are organised in India. “Our core strength is that we can bring in a combination of local depth with international network,” says Michael. The last edition of Techtextil India in 2015 counted 158 exhibitors from 11 countries and over 5,000 trade visitors from 35 countries.

All Techtextil and Texprocess shows happen after a two years’ cycle, except in Russia where Techtextil happens on a yearly basis. “The big challenge is how to continually showcase the dynamic potential of the technical textile industry and the surrounding industry? So, we are always looking for something that creates awareness and also excites the mind,” reveals Michael. The new theme for the upcoming Techtextil at the Frankfurt show (9-12 May 2017) is ‘Living in Space,’ which is in cooperation with the European Space Agency and the German Aerospace Centre, illustrating the broad spectrum of applications for technical textiles with examples from the aerospace sector. The company has created an area of 500 sq. metres dedicated to living in space in terms of architecture, mobility and civilization. Apart from this, the company is also

“The reason behind launching Texprocess is that there is a need for an international show in technology and our core strength is that we can bring in a combination of local depth with international network. The last edition of Techtextil India in 2015 counted 158 exhibitors from 11 countries and over 5,000 trade visitors from 35 countries.” – Michael Jänecke

Being successful in bringing people and markets together, Messe

Frankfurt – the leader in the business of organizing trade shows – has shown remarkable growth over the last two decades in India and has come to be known as the company that creates platforms for new markets in the country. With time, India has emerged as one of the fastest growing exhibiting nations among 139 countries at Frankfurt fairs, with more than 2,500 Indian manufacturers and scores of visitors, being present every year. In an exclusive conversation with Apparel Online, Michael Jänecke, Director, Brand Management Technical Textiles & Textile Processing, Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH; Priyanka Pawar, Group Exhibition Head (Textile and Consumer shows) Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt. Ltd.; and Veronika Maerz, Marketing Director, VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies, share the strategy that drives the exhibitions.

Globally, Messe Frankfurt conducts over 50 events for apparel fabrics, fashions, home textiles, technical textiles, textile processing and care. In India, the company currently holds around 18 events, of which three are related to the textile industry. It is now coming up with the first Texprocess Pavillion @ Techtextil India (within Techtextil India) from 13-15 September 2017. “India is a booming market and the idea behind the show is to better link the Indian technical textile industry to the global market,” reveals Michael. Though, the Indian Government is supporting investment in the technical textiles segment with reduction of import duties by 10 per cent on required technologies, the marketing efforts have not been proactive and need support as well. “Sensing the gap, Messe Frankfurt

Veronika Maerz, Marketing Director, VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies and Michael Jänecke, Director, Brand Management Technical Textiles &Textile Processing, Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH

Creating global platforms for products and servicesMesse Frankfurt focuses on the growing Indian market for technical textiles

TO ADVERTISEContact Rani Mahendru +91-11-47390000 (512) [email protected]



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focusing on complementary programme with focus on digital printing and international innovative apparel shows. “There will be a digital textile micro-factory on the floor at Texprocess in Frankfurt (parallel to Techtextil) mainly dedicated to the garment industry,” adds Michael.

The need of the premiere of the Texprocess Pavilion @ Techtextil India is borne by the fact that the technical textiles and processing market in India is growing at an average of 4-5 per cent and while a decade ago there were hardly 10 companies in the segment, now there are 40-50 serious contenders. “India is on the way of becoming a major market for technical textiles. The growth is driven by demand from the user side and the dependency on technical textiles for more and more applications,” avers Michael. For a successful shift towards technical textiles, the industry requires technically sound machineries and this is where Messe Frankfurt is trying to fill the gap by bringing in different technologies on the same platform with the Texprocess Pavilion. “There is a certain benefit that all industries get through Techtextil and Texprocess, being together,” reasons Michael.

This is where VDMA takes centre stage, through its research and development in Germany and Europe providing a platform to industries and association to communicate with each other and to discover new markets. “You need to process textiles, live in space or build a digital micro-factory for which we need technology. This is where the manufacturers of sewing and garment technology come in,” informs Veronika. A major topic that continues to concern the sector is that of sustainable production in the international garment industry, whether as a result of state regulation or consumer and trade demand, leading sustainability to develop into an important and growing competitive factor. With the Blue Competence sustainability initiative launched by the VDMA, manufacturers of sewing and garment machinery are showing that they contribute towards using energy more efficiently, protecting resources and reducing costs through continuous innovations and pioneering technology.

India is a thrust market for Messe Frankfurt and with support from its local office, the company is looking at ways to explore the vibrant market opportunities in the country to grow… the first Texprocess Pavilion @ Techtextil India is an effort in that direction.

One of the oldest names in industrial sewing machines and accessories

industry, Hari Chand Anand & Co. (HCA) has been catering to various industries such as garment, technical textiles, upholstery, home furnishings, etc., providing the latest and best affordable automation. In conversation with Apparel Online, Anil Anand, MD talks about the changing Indian industry and concerns surrounding it.

Continuously, the Indian garment and textile industry is seeing changes, which can be good for some and bad for others; and these changes are withered with time by some of the seasoned players in the

industry such as HCA. Anand is concerned of how the industry is changing for the worse, indicating a bleak future. “In India, the biggest problem is that none of the big exporters come for local exhibitions, but they do attend all international exhibitions. In Bangladesh, each and every boss comes to see exhibitions and also knows about the new technology. The big players here believe it’s below their standard to attend a domestic exhibition,” asserts Anand.

Dwelling on the reasons behind growing apathy in the industry, Anil comprehends it to be partly because of the second or the third generation coming into business,

who no longer wants to dirty their hands in labour matters, quality or productivity issues. Also, there is a shift in focus for many, who are going the real estate route. “A majority of players have huge factories or lands, where they have constructed multi-storey buildings. When they are getting similar rent as that of production why would they want to do hard work? You cannot run the industry with a remote control. It requires 24X7 monitoring and apt decision making. Look at Bangladesh! It has become the 2nd largest market. When they started, they were way behind, so if we don’t think right now, we will be history,” claims Anil.

Nonetheless the growing focus towards the domestic market is providing a better outlook for India, as Government initiatives are encouraging expansions. “Domestic market is growing and it has potential to further grow to the level of export market today. We are a 1.2 billion people country, 4 times bigger than entire Europe and nearing China. So yes, there is a potential. And people are spending. Money is not an issue anymore. The domestic market players are exposed to a lot of foreign brands, so they understand quality,” maintains Anil.

As the domestic market is continuously looking to provide quality products to its customers it is giving a rise to latest affordable automation, which companies like the HCA is providing. “Everybody is looking at automation; this is how you can save on labour. Wages are continuously rising; right now there has been an increase of 35% in Delhi, but if you calculate the entire cost, it stands at 52%,” reveals Anil. Though some may be uncertain regarding the future of the Indian industry in terms of exports, but for many, it is surely making the domestic market more viable for investment, and for many companies to look beyond just automation for the big players.

Anil Anand (C), MD, HCA explaining technology to some visitors

HCA believes in domestic future

Concerned about the future of the Indian export industry


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Continuously providing high-end technology and services to top players

in the apparel, home textiles, technical textiles, arena, leading technology providers IIGM have come a long way from being mere suppliers to being partners of growth to some of the biggest names in the Indian industry. Having successfully established its credibility, the company is now shifting its focus to include also the domestic market, by providing technological solutions to small- and mid-level players.

“Consciously we are now realizing and trying to provide solutions bottom up. The way things are going today, the domestic market is appearing very strong in the horizon and if we don’t address the concerns of the small guy and give him the strength and tools to scale up, we are missing out on a big opportunity,” asserts Pavan Kapoor, MD, IIGM. Through its business partners that range from Zuki, Yamato, Jack, Gerber, Hashima, etc. the company offers a range of technology and solutions to its clients, whether their quantity is 100 or 10,000 pieces so that the desired product can be manufactured without compromising on the quality, in the most efficient and productive way.

To communicate its new focus and growing engagement with mid-level and small players, the company has revamped its e-commerce options. “Today you look at information, it is everywhere; we are in a Google era. Our new website is like a repository to the entire industry in terms of technology that has been beautifully catalogued and is easy to navigate. Our salesman cannot go and meet every user – both existing and prospective, and engage with all of them, we want 80 per cent engagement to be on the e-commerce platform,” informs Kapoor.

IIGM believes that its knowledge-sharing website will break its image from a big client company to an all client one. This shift of

IIGM is linked to what India is witnessing currently, with many exporters and the Government as well looking to move inwards within the country, rather than outwards to different ones. “Five years ago, if you would ask an exporter, who wanted to expand, where was he going, he would say Africa or Cambodia, etc., but it is not the case anymore now, as the trend is drastically coming down. This means he is looking inwards. To make a categorical statement that nobody would expand is a foolish thing! Whoever wants to survive needs to expand,” states Pavan.

A part of this changing environment is also spurred by various State Governments’ reforms and initiatives, such as the one initiated by Orissa, which is the biggest hub for India in terms of labour. “Various State Governments are vying for the big boys. Places like Bhubaneswar saw companies such as Shahi, Madura moving in, and I am sure in the next couple of years, a few and more big names will make some serious commitments to invest in new regions. For anything to succeed, an ecosystem needs to be created, grown and matured. When these big names move to places such as Bhubaneswar, they create a little bit of ecosystem, which benefits small players, who do not have the resources to move,” claims Kapoor. With various initiatives by HRD and the skill development ministry, places like Bhubaneswar and Jharkhand are getting recognized, which were earlier invisible on the map, proving to be a good option for exporters against places such as Bangladesh, etc. in terms of cost benefits as well. “I see everything positive coming up. Let’s also appreciate that we have a rapidly growing middle-class. If you are looking at retail 5 years ago to that of today, the dynamics are completely different. So you can see a lot of game changing things happening in the domestic sector too,” reveals Kapoor.

The Indian industry growth trajectory is always compared to China; when China was growing and exporting huge quantities, it was riding high on domestic as well. But today the labour wages are so high, becoming difficult for the export segment in the country to sustain, thereby seeing a shift in business to Vietnam, Cambodia, etc. “Our minimum wages are also growing, but it has not reached a level where it will not be sustainable for our garment industry, especially looking at the Indian demographics,” believes Kapoor. The company is upbeat about India’s growing domestic market and is trying to feed it with the best automation available at affordable prices, so that it can compete with the international market. “When I see our portfolio today, there is something for everyone. We realized in our business that we cannot always aim for the top. That’s why we are providing economical but best solutions for the mid- and low-segment, which are doing very good,” concludes Kapoor.

Pavan Kapoor, MD, IIGM

IIGM LOOKING TO SERVICE SMALL- AND MID-LEVEL PLAYERS, DOMESTIC MARKET




An organization that stands for reliability, quality and technology

in the field of fabric designing, cutting, sewing, CAD/CAM and finishing, Turel Group of companies have been dedicatedly delivering automation combined with the flexibility to meet challenges not just in the international market, but also in domestic arena. Over the years, the company has grown into a reliable one-stop shop for garment engineering machineries and solutions, while analysing the customer’s specific needs and offering them a comprehensive package.

With its deep-rooted strategy in catering to both domestic and international market for a very long time, the company is witnessing a shift from export market being sceptical in making an investment in automation to when the domestic market is looking at upgrading its technology and focusing on further investment. “Local people want to invest money. They are fed up with labour, that’s why they are looking at optimization at an affordable price. More than just purchase of machines they are looking not just at after-sales service but services beyond that as well. If you are giving them an automatic machine and they don’t know how to use them, the optimization has no meaning and they will not get the desired results,” reveals Viraf Turel, MD, EH Turel & Co. The company goes one step beyond from the usual installation and is providing warranty for the machine to train the operators and also the people using the machinery to optimize its full potential.

In order to know themselves fully about the machine, the company sends its technician so that he learns while the machinery is getting prepared

and consequently passes on the knowledge to others. “So, he knows the inside of the machines and when the machine comes over here, he is ready to train the other technicians and operators as well. We have a lady garment engineer who trains the operators primarily for the reason that she can sit comfortably with all the women operators and can teach them how to use the machinery,” informs Viraf. Being among the niche companies and the first ones to bring automation in India, it focuses on imparting knowledge through talk shows and various trainings. Apart from this, the company works along with its customers in terms of their requirements, and recently one of the company’s customer asked for a fully automatic machine for making bullet proof jackets.

The company’s complete range of products include CAD systems, cutting room, fusing, sewing, finishing, etc., from high-end European technology and also Chinese technology, thereby maintaining a balance between high-end and mid-segment automation. “We substitute between Chinese and European counterpart as high-end cannot provide you all the solutions. Probably they don’t want to be associated with a certain variety of products, etc. That’s why we go into mid-level machineries. We have to give the customer what he wants and not what I have. We have to judge which would be the right technology that the customer wants and what his pocket allows,” asserts Viraf. The company has new machineries from Chinese innovation leaders Typical and is focusing further on bonding and laser through various testing where they are analysing how laser can support heavy duty products and garmenting, as well.

Continuously progressing in terms of its products and services, the company believes in the ‘Make in India’ movement, and is currently focusing on manufacturing on a small scale which it further wants to expand. “My niche is automation. But I am quite capable of doing something more than what I am doing,” informs Viraf.

Going forward as the Indian industry moves further towards automation and to compete in the international market, Viraf concludes, “The industry progression is such that we Indians react very fast. If there is slight disturbance, we get into our shell. But with the younger generation coming, the business views are changing and also with various states providing reforms and initiatives, it is a big help.”

Neville Turel (left), Sales & Marketing Head with his father Viraf Turel, Managing Director, Turel Group

Turel GroupAutomation the way forward for Indian Industry

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We have to give the customer what he wants and not what I have. We have to judge which would be the right technology that the customer wants and what his pocket allows.Viraf Turel, MD, EH Turel & Co.


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Noida-based Find Agencies Private Limited (FAPL),

an almost three-decade old company, is eyeing market expansion for which it is exploring the US and Scandinavian market. FAPL, a sister concern of Francis Wacziarg Group of companies, is currently working mostly with France, which contributes around 75 per cent of its total business and rest of the 25 per cent is from countries like Italy, Finland, Spain, UK and Australia. Aristide Samuel, Director of the company informed, “Despite the down sentiments in Europe, we are doing well and have added new clients in our buyers’ list. Exploring US and Scandinavian countries is good option to grow further, as these two regions are doing relatively well. We are expecting growth of 20-25 per cent for the next fiscal year.”

The company is currently sourcing home and lifestyle products including leather garments, footwear and fashion accessories. Having its foot prints in 11 major production locations and 6 offices across the country, adds an edge to the company in comparison of its competitors. It has niche clientele, including hypermarkets and supermarkets, department stores, textile and giftware importers, international designers, well known brands and boutiques.

Aristide shared that apart from international scenario, high cotton price is also a concern. “To fulfil the customer’s stringent demands, we are trying to consolidate business with factories who are able to meet the requirement in terms of quality, pricing, social compliance, organization’s collection and pro-activeness,” He further added that at the moment, most

of the customers have reduced their quantities in general but at the same time increased the number of stock keeping units (SKUs). “This is very challenging for our teams who needs to negotiate better with the factory while understanding the technical feasibility of the specific

product, since our job is all about details, we have to be extremely careful when the work load increases as we cannot afford to make any mistake. We have in place ERP system to monitor each and every order which have been accepted by FAPL. This system helps to a great extent and alerts you with the pending activities,” added Aristide Samuel.

The company keeps on adding new vendors from time to time, depending on their designs and commercial abilities, but currently, its major concern is social compliance and they are moving towards it judiciously. “Compliance is a process wherein we keep on looking for better ways to protect the health, safety and fundamental rights of employees, and to enhance the community and environment in which they operate,” underlined Aristide.

‘Find Agencies’ looking for new and potential markets

Aristide Samuel, Director, Find Agencies Private Limited (FAPL)

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