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Tim Lindgren
Queensland University of Technology,
Brisbane, Australia.
Email: [email protected]
Abstract
Chinese fashion design: Rebuilding the centre of theworld.
******
In this paper I contend that by emphasising the
economic flows of fashion instead of the aesthetic field,
an alternate view of the fashion system emerges. Fashion
is fundamentally a consumer activity, made acutely
manifest in liquid modernity (Bauman 2011, 18-31),
consequently new centres of fashion will gravitate toward
sites of greater financial activity, in turn
contradicting the cultural supremacy of traditional
fashion capitals. In this way fashion is cast as a
commodity and measured in dollar terms.
Therefore I argue the concept of Eurocentric
hegemony, once represented as industrial might has become
a mythological concept perpetuated by multinational
corporations traditionally headquartered in Europe who
manipulate their cultural heritage for profit. While for
these foreign entities there may be degrees of fluidity
to the international deployment of their brands, the
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
1
certainty of profit margins is paramount to their
corporate bottom line. Consequently the hollowing of
European markets and a greater urgency for increased
revenues from the developing economies of the Asian
marketplace has meant a strategic focus on the emergent
Chinese consumer, and an encroachment upon the territory
of the domestic Chinese designer.
However the speed of digital and social media allows
Chinese producers and consumers alike to respond quickly.
Consequently the exotic, once appropriated from foreign
countries for fresh contexts is no longer new, nor
exclusive. An urgent economic undercurrent has replaced
the allure of orientalism. In the past profits were
repatriated to Europe yet increasingly financial capital
flows in the opposite direction to Asia for the benefit
of Asian investors. In this way, China’s reputation as
manufacturer to the world has been reshaped by a
political mandate that underpins a new creative and
financial impetus in order to challenge established
models, and to offer China as an alternative and future
powerhouse of global fashion.
******
Keywords: Fashion system, China, Digital, Economy
The Eurocentric fashion system offers a model for the
dissemination of fashion that has successfully
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
2
perpetuated the mythology of Paris as a global fashion
capital, and whose products have been embraced by rapidly
growing numbers of Chinese consumers. However, the
pillars of authenticity that for foreign brands extend
far into their cultural and creative histories, often for
tens of decades in the case of the European luxury brands
of Louis Vuitton, Burberry or Christian Dior, do not
exist in China in this era of globalisation. Here the
cultural bedrock allows these same pillars to extend only
thirty or so years into the past, to the moments when
Deng Xiaoping granted China’s creative entrepreneurs
passage, and therefore Chinese fashion designers have had
less time to assemble their brands and reputations.
Yet this is changing. The momentum of Chinese
fashion is now at a tipping point. At policy level the
Chinese government’s most recent, 12th Five Year Plan,
implemented in 2011, clearly articulates a renewed focus
on the domestic economy. The plan intends to move China’s
economic momentum from an export-led income to domestic-
led consumption. Furthermore, the plan stresses less
reliance on foreign technology, and greater importance
for domestic innovation. Point eight of the ten-point
plan specifically encourages cultural production in order
to increase China’s ‘soft power’ (Chabot 2009).
To examine how this might change the accepted model
of a fashion system, and how such change can be linked to
the economy of a country, this paper adopts a production
of culture approach. Yuniya Kawamura (2005, 33) has
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
3
explained this cultural perspective is useful for
investigating movements in popular culture where
production is foremost. Furthermore, fashion systems are
constructed of individuals, organisations and
institutions that in combination serve to validate
cultural products. Kawamura’s perspective asserts that
the production of culture involves social cooperation,
collective activities and groups, which is made manifest
as a fashion system. Therefore, in contrast to the view
that fashion emerges in mysterious ways that epitomise
cultural trends, it is clear that fashion emerges from
sets of interacting organisations that shape its content
in various ways (Crane 1997; Kawamura 2011). Underpinning
the malleability of fashion and its movement through a
fashion system is the economy of fashion.
Here I introduce a concept analogous with fashion,
for the narrative that unfolds throughout this paper is
less concerned with the aesthetics of product design and
the beauty of fashion, than it is with the financial
drivers that underpin the field of fashion. The field of
fashion, in the view of economist Paul Nystrom (1928), is
driven by financial capital. There are various other
capitals that contribute to this field, including social
capital and knowledge capital that provide access and
momentum to the dissemination of new ideas. However the
cycling of financial capital through the value-adding
process of manufacturing and legitimisation is
fundamental for the existence of fashion. Therefore, the
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
4
concept of fashion might be imagined as the energy in the
bow-wave one views when peering over the front of a ship
as it moves through a sea. Fashion is always
incrementally ahead of the financial momentum that
propels it. In this context, the ship is the economy of
fashion and the ocean represents the vastness of the
market for fashion. Of course, when the ship stops
moving, perhaps when it docks, so does the economy of
fashion, so there is a constant quest for new
territories.
In the main, large corporations operating in the
global field of fashion are attentive to factors that
might indicate surplus income for the purchase of luxury
goods (Remy et al. 2014). Growing populations of
middleclass consumers that signify increasing incomes in
new markets, and the capacity to impart or adapt the
mythologised story of their brand are vital for
perpetuating consumption. In the global economy these
indicators are in flux, and an examination of their state
offers a glimpse of what might be termed the new global
economy of fashion, where some brands have become
ubiquitous and currency fluctuations are of vital concern
to the profitability of a corporation. Without these key
indicators, the financial return demanded by investors or
shareholders cannot be ratified, for in this instance
fashion is less an aesthetic phenomenon than it is a most
visible sign of consumption. Large corporations also wish
to invest for the future with an ideal consistency of
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
5
return (Remy et al. 2014). Despite the ephemeral nature
of fashion and the short shelf life of fashionable
products, physical infrastructure such as retail stores,
warehouses and services including logistics systems and
marketing is of great cost and must be considered for the
long-term.
The term ‘doughnut effect’1 has previously been used
to describe ways in which a city centre hollows as its
human population moves from inner locales to outer
precincts in search of newer, larger or more accessible
housing (Boyle 1992). In particular, the term is used to
describe the migration of shoppers from town centres to
outer suburbs of urban settlement. In the financial
districts of large cities such as London, New York or
Sydney, empty city centres on the weekend provide
evidence of this effect. Here, I utilise the term
differently. Relocated to the context of the fashion
system, the concept is applicable to the changes to the
direction of financial capital in its relocation toward
new geographic territories in quest of untapped or
emerging consumer markets. This ‘hollowing’ of existing
markets for fashion can be attributed variously to
satiated consumers as well as the ease of transmission of
knowledge, best represented by the digital medium,
factors that demonstrate how the exclusivity of fashion
is no longer geographically bound. The world economy has
flattened and along with declining or aging populations,
1 ‘donut’ depending on the geographical location.
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
6
it is mainly the macro-economic impact of a depressed
Eurozone that has contributed to this effect (Roubini
2014).
In many countries in Europe, economic growth has
stalled, yet conversely most Asian countries possess
economies that are growing consistently. The poor
economic situation is urgent enough for the managing
director of the International Monetary Fund, Christine
Lagarde, to be queried at a recent meeting of the IMF
whether ‘Europe is the new Japan’? Her answer, though
guarded, confirmed the difficult financial circumstances
of the Eurozone (Elliot 2014). When the markers of
population growth, GDP and income are used, the situation
becomes more apparent, and the likelihood of continued
infrastructure investment by large fashion companies
lessens. For instance, the British economy is at risk of
stagnation if its major trading partners in Europe and
elsewhere fall into a recession. Its population though
growing is also aging more quickly (Arnett 2013). In
France, the economy is at a standstill with growth
predictions of 0.4 percent for 2014 and one percent in
2015, although the credit ratings agency Standard and
Poor point to a recovering competitiveness and
profitability among French companies (Boren 2014).
Germany is struggling on the brink of recession due to
poor GDP figures and its centrality in the Eurozone, the
world’s second-biggest economic sector. The impact of
Europe’s plunge in fertility rates over the last few
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
7
decades is most evident in Germany and in its most recent
census Germany found it had shrunk by 1.5 million people.
The Russian economy is also stagnant where GDP
growth in 2014 hovers at 0.8 percent. Russia is operating
on the threshold of recession due to increased
geopolitical risk, limited access to financial markets
and trade sanctions as widely reported in the world media
recently (The World Bank 2014). Russia also has reason
for concern about its birth rate in the future as life
expectancy is growing. According to a recent report
(Adomanis 2014), Russia seems likely to rely on migration
to maintain its population like many developed Western
countries, none of which have a total fertility rate
sufficient for population growth.
Other European countries such as Italy, Spain and
Greece need to do more to encourage companies in the
creative sector to invest and create jobs in their
domestic economies. Unemployment is high in Italy at
around twelve percent and especially for young people at
approximately forty-four percent severely curbing their
ability to take advantage of lower borrowing costs to
build businesses. Importantly this demographic is a prime
consumer of fast fashion. Historically high unemployment
rates in countries like Italy, Spain and Greece are
further discouraging young people from having children.
Italy is currently in recession with forecast growth of
0.6 percent in 2015, and a seeming inability by the Prime
Minister Matteo Renzi to reform a political system in
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
8
desperate need of institutional change. Since the
Eurozone was formed in 1999, Italy has enjoyed almost no
growth, due in part to heady competition from emerging
markets for the country’s manufacturing sector.
For instance, Germany produces highly technical,
complex consumer hardware and machinery, yet Italy has
long specialised in low specification consumer goods,
especially fashion goods, which China and other
production focussed economies have learnt to produce more
cheaply (Bootle 2014). In China, Shanghai’s high speed
Maglev train is a triumphant export of German engineering
as is the Chinese garment industry’s ability to dominate
the manufacturing of much of the worlds clothing.
Spain’s largely agricultural economy is tied to its
European trading partners and is also losing momentum due
to uncertainty over the future of the would-be
secessionist Catalonia. Succession would cost Spain
twenty percent of its economic output, yet growth is
forecast at 1.2 percent in 2014 and 1.6 percent in 2015,
according to the OECD, mainly due to a stabilising
banking sector and greater trust by global financial
markets. However unemployment is another problem. With
24.5 percent of the population unemployed, it is second
only to Greece (Khan 2014).
In Greece, the Eurozone debt crisis that epitomised
the woes of Europe on the global stage and caused near
bankruptcy of the country appears to have stilled. Greece
is forecast to return to a growth scenario after 24
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
9
quarters (6 years) of negativity, an international
bailout and constant budget deficits. However, the
recession has left more than one in four people
unemployed and reduced household income by a third.
Almost twenty percent of the population is aged 65 or
more, and growth is negative, at -0.5 percent for 2013
(World Bank Group 2014).
The International Monetary Fund’s explains that in
Latin America the latest economic forecasts show
Venezuela, Brazil, and Argentina who are the largest
members of the Mercosur Trade Union2, will grow at an
average rate of 0.6 percent this year while Chile, Peru,
Colombia, and Mexico which constitute the Pacific
Alliance will expand by 4.2 percent. The difference has
little to do with western Latin America’s orientation
toward a dynamic Asia or the eastern countries’ exposure
to a stagnant Europe. Replete with abundant natural
resources and a consumer market of almost 200 million
people, Brazil remains a regional economic giant although
the excessively interventionist administration of
President Dilmah Rouseff has caused the country to lose
its title of a dynamic emerging market. Brazilian fashion
sales are substantial, however high duties and import
taxes increasingly push sales online.
Yet the situation is vastly different in Asia. 4.3
billion people live in this region, or sixty percent of
2 The Mercosur trade bloc and customs union comprises Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay, Uruguay and Venezuela. Its purpose is to promote free trade and the fluid movement of goods, people and currency.
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
10
the world's current human population. Asia has enjoyed a
high growth rate since the end of World War Two and
during the 20th century Asia's population almost
quadrupled. While Asia has the second largest GDP of all
continents after Europe, when measured in purchasing
power parity it possesses the largest. The most
substantial economies in Asia are China, Japan, India,
South Korea and Indonesia, with four main financial
centres located in Tokyo, Hong Kong, Singapore and
Shanghai.
The Japanese economy is the third largest in the
world in terms of GDP and the fourth largest by
purchasing power parity. It is also the world's second
largest developed economy. According to the International
Monetary Fund, the country's per capita GDP (PPP) was
US$36,899. Japan is a substantial car manufacturer and
has the largest global electronics industry. Facing
increasing competition from China and South Korea,
manufacturing in Japan today now focuses primarily on
high-tech and precision goods, such as optical
instruments, hybrid vehicles, and robotics. Japan
recently suffered its sharpest quarterly contraction
since experiencing the 2011 earthquake disaster, blamed
partially on a new consumer sales tax with another rise
planned for 2015 taking it to ten percent (Whelan 2014).
Yet private, or domestic consumption constitutes
approximately sixty percent of Japan's economic activity
and Japan remains the third largest market for foreign
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
11
luxury goods after China and the United States. GDP is
forecast at just over 1.3 percent in 2014 and the world’s
third largest economy is showing signs of increasing
atrophy, both in terms of falling economic output and its
shrinking population. More than twenty-two percent of the
Japanese population are 65 or older and a recent report
warned that by 2060 the Japanese population will have
fallen from 127 million to about 87 million, of whom
almost forty percent will be 65 or older (Economist
2014). In contrast, China and South Korea are increasing
their GDP and population at a much faster rate than
Japan.
South Korea is a wealthy nation and a member of the
Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development
(OECD) as well as belonging to the G-20 major economies.
It has built a market economy that ranks 15th in the
world by nominal GDP and 12th by purchasing power parity
(PPP). While still reliant on exports of mobile handsets,
cars and memory chips for half of its growth, South Korea
is focussed on increasing consumption in the domestic
economy, which grew by three percent last year, up from
two percent in 2012 but lower than double-digit growth
rates experienced in the 1970s. The market for fashion
products is worth €8.3billion, and South Korea is Asia’s
third largest after China and Japan. However, with
domestic consumption mired in a prolonged slump, global
fashion houses note young consumers are turning to more
accessible contemporary brands amid the waning popularity
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
12
of expensive premium brands such as Gucci and Louis
Vuitton. Japan and Korea produce a similar range of
export products and South Korea has expressed grave
concerns about the aggressive monetary easing of Japan,
which has weakened the Japanese yen and provided Japanese
exports a competitive edge over rival Korean products in
global markets.
When Deng Xiaoping declared the Chinese economy open
in 1978, the Indian infrastructure was comparatively ill
prepared for exposure to the global market. Consequently
in the fields of exports, capital spending and foreign
investment, Indian infrastructure today resembles the
Chinese economy of 2001. Indian economic consolidation
began in 1991 when a foreign-exchange crisis forced the
government based in Delhi to reconcile controls on
exports and imports with an international bailout. India
and China’s paths are noticeably similar. After
liberalisation, exports, foreign investment and spending
on equipment, infrastructure and other capacities for
future growth grew at similar rates in both countries.
India's per capita output in 2013, adjusted for
inflation, was slightly above China's in 2000.
India is also recovering after three years of weak
growth and high inflation. Following a strategy borrowed
from the Chinese, The Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi
intends to implement special economic zones to attract
foreign investment offering corporate tax benefits and
shortcuts through the maze of Indian bureaucracy, which
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
13
has hampered the expansion of foreign fashion brands and
made it difficult for domestic brands to compete. In
conjunction, the Trade Minister Nirmala Sitharaman
proposes to emphasise the 'Made in India' brand by
supporting the manufacturing sector, aiming to boost
exports and raise India's share in world trade by fifty
percent over the next five years. India is already a
substantial source of labour intensive beaded and craft
fabrics.
In the meantime, India has become a major hub for
outsourcing due to a large and extremely competitive
information technology industry that emerged in
Bangalore. Call centres, software developers and business
process outsourcing hubs have become major employers in
India due to the availability of large numbers of
skilled, English-speaking staff. Yet Indian literacy lags
China. In terms of the number of years the average adult
has spent in an education institution, India in 2013 was
comparable to China in 1985 and is also decades behind
China when health, sanitation and longevity are measured.
As a result of the global slowdown, China has become
one of the most important markets for European fashion
companies, yet while there is domestic concern of a
property bust, a credit bubble and fallout from efforts
by President Xi Jingping to control corruption, which has
directly impacted domestic consumption of fashion and
luxury goods (Stern 2014), the Chinese domestic economy
is still expanding at a carefully managed rate of
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
14
approximately 7.5 percent per annum.3 According to the
China National Textile and Apparel Council, the Chinese
textile industry plans to continue to dominate the global
market with a strategy of increasing textile and clothing
exports by 7 percent per annum while also lifting the
export value of fibre products to US$400 billion by 2020
(China Daily 2014).
Simultaneously there has been a substantial refocus
in the Chinese media toward Chinese fashion designers,
and a growing willingness of the countries leaders to
take a place on the world stage. It follows that a strong
domestic fashion system means China’s internal economy
will retain a greater share of the profit margins the
occur from the increased values of Chinese clothing, as
it moves through the value chain. A sign this process may
have already begun occurred in March 2013 when China’s
First Lady, Peng Liyuan, accompanied her husband Xi
Jinping, China’s newly elected President, on their first
state excursion to Russia.4 Instead of wearing a luxury
European fashion brand traditionally favoured by heads of
state, Peng Liyuan specifically wore clothing attributed
to the mid-priced Chinese fashion brand called Exception.
Her careful choice of a non-luxury Chinese fashion label
caused immediate and ongoing speculation in the Chinese
and international press about her reasons for doing so
(The World Bank 2014; Stern 2014; Boyle 1992).
3 This growth rate is forecast to slow to 5 percent in 2017.4 President Xi Jinping was formally elected on March 14th 2013.
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
15
For many in the Chinese cultural sector, Peng
Liyuan’s choice was seen as politically driven in a new
governmental era where corruption among officials, most
evident in the conspicuous consumption of foreign luxury
fashion brands, has been reframed as a noxious practice
in the new president’s term of office. In fact, President
Xi Jinping has made fighting corruption a top priority,
urging the ruling Communist Party to ‘oppose hedonism and
flamboyant lifestyles’ (Economist 2014). Peng Liyuan’s
sartorial message was equally powerful. It alludes to an
increasing acceptance by elite officials of Chinese
consumer brands, yet this action might also be
interpreted as an oblique directive enabled by the wife
of China’s most powerful official, generated from deep
within the political hierarchy. At the China Foreign
Affairs University, Wang Fan, head of the Institute of
International Relations proclaimed, ‘In her role as first
lady on this visit abroad, Peng Liyuan is exhibiting
China’s soft power,’ (Moore 2013). Furthermore, Zhang Yu,
the editor of Vogue China said, ‘It’s the first time that
China’s first lady appears [sic] like a modern woman…
after so many years, we finally have a first lady who can
represent us so appropriately. I think it is a landmark
event’ (Boren 2014). While time will diminish the
newsworthiness of this event, the attention given to Peng
Liyuan serves best to illustrate the great expectations,
and aspirations of the Chinese creative sector.
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
16
Much of the globalisation of fashion is now due to
the disruptive nature of digital media. Traditional
gatekeepers such as print magazines like Vogue have
adjusted their strategies, or disappeared, and new
gatekeepers have arisen offering more direct links
between consumers and designers. In fact, Condé Nast, the
European publisher of Vogue magazine, recently laid off
approximately 50 staff members (Telegraph 2014). In a
further sign of change online sales of clothing in Europe
now attract twenty percent of all fashion purchases
(Phillips 2014). However there is greater activity in
China, which has the largest number of Internet users in
a country-to-country comparison. As China moves toward a
greater focus on its domestic economy, the attraction of
creative and cultural goods to aspirational consumers
seems likely to increase. Chinese Internet users are
three-times greater in number than the United States, as
well as India.5 In fact the Chinese Internet population
will reach 730 million in 2016, which is almost double
the population of the United States (Rapoza 2014).
In the context of China it follows that this medium
will directly facilitate consumption in ways that are yet
to be defined, not only internally to the Chinese
domestic economy but also to the Chinese diaspora.
Despite distinct cultural disparities it also follows
that digital models developed for consumers may retain
5 It is telling that the current pace of growth of Internet usage in China is 4% per annum, however Indian Internet usage has increased at14% per annum (W3C 2014).
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
17
elements of cultural exclusivity. Already the Chinese
governments’ control and manipulation of social media
applications common outside China, such as Twitter and
Facebook has provided fertile ground for domestic
innovation. Many Chinese digital entities are culturally
localised and protected, and replicate the functionality
of successful global platforms, particularly those
selling fashion. In many cases, the intellectual property
did not originate in China. For instance, WeChat (Weixin
in China) is a very popular application among Chinese
consumers. Tencent, the owners of the application have
increased their users from 2.8 million in 2011 to 438
million in 2014 (Statista 2014). However, it is the
uptake of these applications outside China that provides
evidence of the globalisation of Chinese digital
capacities when digital media transverses linguistic and
national borders.
In this instance it is notable that access to
domestic Chinese consumer markets is limited and highly
regulated, yet the use of Chinese digital products and
digital sales mechanisms outside the geographic borders
of China seems unfettered. Entrenched Chinese platforms
such as Alibaba and Tmall with its shopping service
Taobao are in numerous ways able to gate-keep access to
the manufacturing capacity of China, and in this way
maintain the economic inflows that China has become
accustomed to as a manufacturer to the world. However the
value of the outflows, increasingly couched in terms of
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
18
the rise of Chinese creativity are yet to be made
apparent. For instance, Alibaba’s greatest problem is
trust, particularly in the context of Chinese consumers
wary of fake fashion products, as well as difficulties in
managing the company’s representations to Western brands
eager for access to Chinese consumers, who are
simultaneously becoming increasingly sophisticated. Much
of their rise is due to an increased capacity for travel
as well as more knowledgeable expectations of quality,
consistency and service upon their return to China.
At this nexus, Chinese fashion designers have a
unique opportunity. Digital media offer exceptional and
evolving attributes that enable new methods of
communication, particularly in facilitating mythologised
narratives that would draw upon Chinese culture and place
this in the global context. Some European fashion brands
such as Burberry, Prada and others have become
particularly effective at developing advertising
campaigns that position their products in a new light,
however Burberry is still reliant on Tmall for a portal
to some segments of the Chinese market. Yet in pursuit of
new sales Burberry has also provided Chinese consumers
with content experiences on its website and on various
Chinese social media platforms such as Kaixin001, Douban,
Youku and Weibo as well as through a partnership with
WeChat. In fact the designer for Burberry, Christopher
Bailey extolls the importance of storytelling, describing
Burberry as much a multimedia company as a fashion brand
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
19
(Harilea 2014). Digital media is not only greatly
enabling to this kind of cultural and creative
production, it amplifies the message to consumers,
reinforcing it by moving beyond the once-measured
traditions of fashion seasons and fashion weeks into
global twilight of fashion blogs, fashion film and social
media available twenty four hours a day. In China the
opportunities offered by this platform would appear to be
underutilised by fashion designers especially those who
are wary of Tmall.
The amount of online time devoted by Chinese
consumers to product and brand self-education is notable.
Ninety per-cent of product-related online activity as
opposed to general browsing on news or entertainment
sites was conducted for the purpose of product education,
and usually did not conclude with an immediate online
purchase (Jap and Walters 2014), yet seventy five percent
of female shoppers have purchased clothing online
(Phillips 2014). However in this space the value of
information is often questionable because of the
malleability of content. Online support by consumers is a
vital step in the process of inspiring trust,
particularly with fashion. It is especially critical in
China, as consumers attribute low levels of trust in
official sources of product information. Consequently it
is the owners or creators of digital creative media
content, like self employed Chinese fashion designers who
will be able to successfully demonstrate new value in the
Tim Lindgren Chinese fashion Designers: Rebuilding the Centre of the World
20
types of information they offer to consumers in a now-
global context, as well as behaving in a trusting and
consistently repetitive manner. In this way a fresh
dialogue between designer and consumer can exist.
In conclusion, when Paul Nystrom (1928, 163) wrote
of the economy of fashion, the chief centres for the
production and consumption of fashion goods were European
cities with the greatest wealth and political influence,
and the fashion system was based upon the mechanised
production of fashionable goods geographically located in
Europe.6 Nystrom included London, Paris, Berlin, Vienna,
Rome, Stockholm, Oslo, The Hague, Brussels and Madrid as
leading fashion capitals. This is no longer the case.
Tokyo, Hong Kong, Singapore and Shanghai have now assumed
this mantle as sites of finance or production as well as
consumption, and digital media offers a new connectivity
for Chinese fashion designers in ways that have already
begun to reshape the global fashion system.
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6 The sewing machine was invented in 1846, and cutting machines for cloth in 1876 (Nystrom 1928, 397).
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Biography
Dr Tim Lindgren is an Australian fashion designer who
works in the global fashion industry where he has
operated his vertically integrated clothing brand. Over
the last ten years, Tim has also pursued his research
interests in Shanghai, and at the A.R.C Centre for
Creative Innovation at the Queensland University of
Technology. Tim is also a cultural studies lecturer. His
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