INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2017 - Le Passage to India

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INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2017 | 32 | INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2017

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Volume 2 Issue VI | July - September 2017

Chairman Arjun Sharma

Managing Director Mario Habig

Advertising Ashvini Kumar

Editor Arundhati ChowdhuryAssistant Editor Subani Saxena

Creative Ashok Mathur

Arshad Ali, Dhruv Singh

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Cover: One horned rhino, Kaziranga National Park, Assam

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08 Guest Column

06 Message from the MD

10 Cover Story

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Hotel Feature

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Product Feature

Destination

Featured Festival

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Dear Partners,

The rains finally make their way across the country, bringing plentiful showers and cool comfort to its diversely beautiful wilds and the many, many creatures that they are home to.

This edition of Inspiring Journeys is our tribute to India’s exquisite and extraordinary wealth of wildlife – terrestrial, avian and marine – and the innumerable destinations that are home to perhaps some of the last remaining rainforests and endangered flora and fauna in the world.

Our cover story unlocks the doors to India’s rich and diverse natural world as we journey to some of its finest wildlife sanctuaries and national parks – some little known, some low profile but, each one a treasure trove of experiences and sights.

This time we take you to two destinations. Both, interestingly, UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Enter the deep, murky, mysterious waters of the world’s largest mangrove forests in West Bengal. Visit the home of the Greater one-horned rhino in Assam – but to meet another delightful resident.

Go on a tough jungle trek (this one’s definitely not for the faint-hearted) through a stunning tiger reserve in Central India and return to relax at a luxurious wildlife safari lodge on the banks of the River Denwa.

While you’re at the lodge, you’ll get a chance to sample the earthy, flavourful fare of Central India. The guest writer for our cuisine feature is closely associated with the lodge. Passionate about food, among other things, he tells us the story of one of his most beloved dishes here and how it came to be.

Showcasing yet another unique festival of India, this time we journey to Kerala in South India. Here, in a temple ground, watch the celebration of a centuries-old festival commemorating a battle. And if you’re keen to explore the state’s outstanding sanctuaries while you’re here, you won’t be disappointed – the beautiful Shenduruny Wildlife Sanctuary is not too far away.

Our Guest Column features a veteran of Delhi Tourism – he shares memories of a thrilling wild encounter and reminisces about the good old days.

If you love the wilderness and want to experience amazing encounters with wildlife in their natural surroundings, India beckons. With its spectacular landscapes and long established wildlife reserves, India offers you fantastic, never-before opportunities to explore and discover destinations that hold surprising secrets and reward you with rare pleasures.

We hope you are inspired to come to India for the experience of a lifetime. Meanwhile, we continue to strive to deliver the most thoughtful, insightful and inspiring windows to our shared planet and its countless wonders.

With warm regards,

Mario Habig

Managing DirectorLe Passage to India Journeys

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To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is

so familiar it is taken for granted.

– Bill Bryson

6 | INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2017


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Way back in 1998 while working with Delhi Tourism, I had the opportunity to

go to Nandaprayag – which is around 400 km from Delhi on the route to Badrinath – along with other officers to inspect a tented colony set up by the DTTDC (Delhi Tourism and Transportation Development Corporation) to facilitate tourists and pilgrims visiting the holy shrine of Badrinath Dham about 105 km from Nandaprayag. Nandaprayag itself is located on the confluence of the Rivers Nandakini and Alaknanda in the hilly state of Uttarakhand in North India.

On reaching Nandaprayag late evening, the MD of DTTDC who was also travelling with us, decided to go to Duggalbitta, which is around 50 km uphill, to stay for the night. She spoke to the District Magistrate, Chamoli and was informed that there was a 125 year-old Circuit House (government guest house) built by the British. It had two rooms and a bathroom but no electricity and no food facilities.However, she was told that there was an old caretaker who lived in a hut near the Circuit House – he could, it seems, cook for us. Provided of course we carried our own supplies of kerosene, vegetables, flour, rice, and other groceries required.

Agreeing to these conditions, we bought the necessary food and provisions and reached Duggalbitta around 9.30 pm. But what a sight

awaited us! For, the moment we reached the circuit house and the headlights of our vehicle fell on the boundary wall, we saw a leopard moving away and sneaking through a gap in the barbwire fenced boundary of the compound area of the circuit house. Stunned and shaken, all of us rushed inside and quickly shut the door. We hadn’t yet gotten over our scary encounter and for quite some time still kept talking about how we saw the leopard at such close quarters…and how the big cat vanished like a silent shadow slowly into the darkness.

Meanwhile, I had another hurdle to overcome. Being not only the youngest but also the junior-most member of our team, I was asked to carry the groceries and vegetables to the caretaker for cooking. Of course I was too terrified to walk alone to his hut but had no option. Even the drivers remained hidden inside their hut and did not accompany me to the caretaker’s hut, which was about 50 yards away.

It felt like the longest walk of my life, and when I somehow finally reached the hut, I saw an old couple in their eighties. They were the caretakers! And as I gave them the groceries, I asked the old man “Are you not scared of the leopard?” and he replied “We have been seeing him from the time he was a young leopard. He knows us…he will not harm us.”

All the while I was conversing with them, I could constantly hear the sound of flowing water and imagined it was the sound of the leopard. These were breathless moments for me; it took me about an hour’s time to shuttle between the Circuit House and the cook’s hut to carry food to the team but those moments felt as if I was experiencing life and death together! And the sound of water from the adjoining stream, for some inexplicable reason, only aggravated my fear of the presence of the leopard.

Anyway, the night passed peacefully somehow and the next day we saw the breathtakingly beautiful dense forests of Chopta, which is 12 km from Duggalbitta. Chopta is called the Switzerland of India. Nearby is the famous Tunganath Temple. We also went to Joshimath to see the Shankaracharya temple, and later to Auli where we enjoyed a fantastic ropeway ride – one of the highest and the longest – and saw beautiful Himalayan peaks.

Speaking of Nandaprayag reminds me of how the place was in the news some 30-40 years ago when Edmund Hillary embarked on his expedition from Gangasagar to Badrinath with his family in his jet boat. Apparently, they ran up against fierce river currents and the boat got stuck at Nandprayag at a waterfall. Edmund had to abandon his expedition and covered the rest of the journey by car to Badrinath.

A CLOSE

ENCOUNTERThe continued existence of wildlife and wilderness is important to the

quality of life of humans.

- Jim Fowler

I also recall my meeting with Sir Edmund Hillary in 1989 when the DTTDC organised a heritage walk in the Merauli area in Delhi for 10,000 students of the Delhi Government schools. The walk was flagged off by Sir Hillary and we covered the stunning ruins and ramparts of Mehrauli – showcasing Balban’s Tomb, Jamali Kamali, Rajaon ki Baoli, Gandhak ki Baoli, Quili Khan’s Tomb, Jain Dada Bari and eventually finishing at the Chhattarpur Temple.

Chatting during the walk, Sir Hillary recounted how, when he failed to climb Mount Everest a year before, he told Everest “Next year I will come again…when I will be taller and you will be where you are”. He also said “There is a mountain within me…I am not able to climb that so I will try again”.

His message was simple: Never give up. Keep trying.

SUSHEEL SAXENA

Carrying over 40 years of work experience in key positions with Delhi Tourism, Susheel is a veritable stalwart of the industry. Not one to sit back after retirement, he has ensured that the extensive experience and vast knowledge acquired over the decades continue to not only keep him active pursuing interests close to his heart but also busy and engaged with various causes and events.

With great communication skills and a positive attitude, Susheel’s personal credo is ‘Perfection is not attainable but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence’. Susheel can be contacted at [email protected]

GUEST COLUMN

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DISCOVERING THE TREASURES OF

INDIA’S WILDERNESS

The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated.

- Mahatma Gandhi

Pench Tiger Reserve



the Indian landscape abounds in extraordinarily diverse, rare and

beautiful species of wildlife – a veritable melting pot of flora and fauna. You will see them on land, in the ocean, and high in the skies. You will find them in the most astounding mix of habitats and ecological zones ranging from lush tropical forests to deep mangrove swamps; from remote sand deserts to dry grasslands; from icy alpine reaches to the very depths of the ocean.

The Western Ghats, Eastern Himalayas and Indo-Burma region are three of the 34 ‘global biodiversity hotspots’ in the world.

Just 17 of the world’s 190 or so countries contain 70 percent of its biodiversity, earning them the title ‘megadiverse’. India is one of the megadiverse countries, accounting for 7-8 per cent of the species of the world.

Of these 12.6 per cent of mammals, 4.5 per cent of birds, 45.8 per cent of reptiles, 55.8 per cent of amphibians and 33 per cent of

Indian plants are endemic, found nowhere else in the world.

Recent decades though have seen a huge surge in the country’s population, resulting in a massive threat to India’s wildlife and the loss and extinction of many species. Human encroachment, illegal hunting and poaching have been the biggest culprits. To combat these threats and fast dwindling wildlife numbers, the concept of establishing national parks and reserves first came into being in 1935, and has expanded and grown since.

Perhaps most noted for its iconic species – the tiger, elephant, monkey, leopard, deer, and rhino – India also harbours many other stunning species, both small and large. There are now 103 national parks, 18 Biosphere reserves and over 400 wildlife sanctuaries located throughout the country that conserve and protect several endemic and endangered species.

We take you on a tour of some of India’s finest national parks and wildlife sanctuaries in each region. Some are low-profile, yet others are little known or even unknown. However, each of them stand out for their astonishing beauty and diversity, and serious conservation efforts.

MADHYA PRADESH

SATPURA NATIONAL PARK

The Satpura Tiger Reserve lies along the Satpura mountain range, sloping down to the Narmada and Tawa valleys. The landscape is spectacular and wildlife aplenty. If you’re keen to spot the bison and sambar, go on a half-day Jeep safari to the Reserve from the Neemghan Gate, around 7 km from town, or try a full-day trip to the Bori or Kajri sanctuaries here. To experience the full 200 km circuit of the Reserve, especially if you’ve come all the way just to spot the big cat himself, then be ready for at least a 3-day trip spending nights in the forest rest houses. You won’t regret it.

PENCH NATIONAL PARKAlso known as the Indira Priyadarshini Pench Tiger Reserve, Pench lies on the southern boundary of Madhya Pradesh. You can explore the beautiful Park from any one of its three gates – Turia Gate, Karmajhuri Gate, and Jamtara Gate. The Jeep safari is a fantastic

way to get a feel of the forest. Morning rides, especially at the crack of dawn, are wonderful. The jungle is surprisingly noisy. Listen to

the calls; if you have a guide or naturalist along, even better.

In the evenings, look out for kingfishers, cheetals,

wild dogs, jackals, owls…and if you hear an alarm call, chances are there’s a tiger somewhere quite close by.

CHHATTISGARH ACHANAKMAR WILDLIFE

SANCTUARYEstablished in 1957, the

Achanakmar Wildlife Sanctuary comprises over 500 sq.km of lush forests, and is surrounded by the Mekhal Range where the Vindhyas and Satpuras meet. Safaris into the Sanctuary last 4-5 hours in the mornings and 3-4 hours in the evenings, and are accompanied by the mandatory guide. Inside, you’ll see several deer species, wild boar, bear; and if you’re lucky, then you’ll catch glimpses of tiger, leopard, striped hyena, jackal, sloth bear, Indian wild dog, antelope, mountain gazelle, blackbuck, etc.

BARNAWAPARA WILDLIFE SANCTUARYBarnawapara is named after the twin villages of Bar and Nawapara located in the Sanctuary. Established in 1976, Barnawapara is considered unique because despite there being 21 villages inside the Sanctuary, there have been no cases of poaching; also, rarely any people-wildlife conflict issues. This is a place teeming with both carnivore and herbivore wildlife, and an abundant supply of water thanks to its intense rainfall, streams, rivulets, and watering holes. The many watering holes here are really the best way to spot wildlife. You might see leopard, antelope, the little-known mouse deer, sloth bear, Indian wild dog, jungle cat, porcupine, and the elusive tiger. Inside the forest, there

are over 150 species of birds such as golden oriole, racket-tailed drongo, heron, barbet etc. for birders to catch sight of. Then there are reptiles such as monitor lizards, cobra, krait, python, and rat snake. You’ll also find the giant flying squirrel, palm civet, and civet cat here. The Sanctuary is wonderful to explore but, definitely only with a guide!

GURU GHASIDAS NATIONAL PARK

Formerly known as the Sanjay National Park, the Guru Ghasidas National Park was renamed after the region’s iconic social reformist. Guru Ghasidas’s beauty lies in the fact that this is a little-explored wildlife sanctuary in India, perhaps even little-known. The Park is a mixed forest of teak, sal, and

bamboo trees. There’s a wide assortment of animals and birds. But Guru Ghasidas is especially important because it forms a vital wildlife corridor connecting its more famous cousins – the Bandhavgarh and Palamau tiger reserves. With its dense forests, pretty streams, and undulating terrain, and tigers too, Guru Ghasidas must be explored.

KANGER VALLEY NATIONAL PARK

Established in 1982, the Kanger Valley National Park is one of the most stunning national parks in India. Kanger is famous not only for its natural beauty but also for its rich and unique biodiversity. Lying on the banks of the River Kolab, 27 km from Jagdalpur, the Valley gets its name from the other river that flows through it – River Kanger.

Wildlife in Kanger includes tigers, leopards, wildcats, mouse deer, jackals, rhesus monkeys, macaques, sloth bears, giant flying squirrels, otters, civet cats, striped hyenas, wild pigs, cobras, pythons, crocodiles, monitor lizards, and several species of birds. But the one creature you simply have to try and spot is the hill mynah, the star attraction at the Park! It is now famous as the Bastar Mynah and is also the state bird of Chhattisgarh.

CENTRAL

Inside the forest, there are over 150 species of birds such as golden oriole, racket-tailed drongo, heron, barbet etc. for birders to catch sight of. Then there are reptiles such as monitor lizards, cobra, krait, python, and rat snake.

Forest of Satpura Greater Racket-tailed drongo

Striped Hyena

Wild Boar

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UDANTI WILD BUFFALO WILDLIFE SANCTUARYCreated for the conservation and protection of the wild buffalo, the Udanti Wildlife Sanctuary is spread across 247 sq.km and can be explored in a day. The Sanctuary is abundant in wildlife as well as birdlife. The watchtower inside, 370 feet above sea level, is the best place to explore the Sanctuary. Downhill, are pretty lakes and gurgling streams. Especially good for animal sightings is the lovely Nagesh Talab, whose crystal clear waters look like a sheet of glass laid across a green carpet!

SITANADI WILDLIFE SANCTUARYA gorgeous sprawling sanctuary spread across 556 sq.km of lush greens and serene waters, Sitanadi was established in 1974 and teems with diverse wildlife and several lovely species of birdlife – you’ll easily be able to spot a number of animals and birds on simply one tour into the Sanctuary. Sitanadi’s high point, literally, is its watchtower that stands at 635 metres above sea level. The

watchtower is surrounded by seven stark mountains, each named after a Saptarishi (seven holy sages in Hindu mythology). The safaris here are accompanied by guides and last 4-5 hours in the mornings and 3-4 hours in the evenings. Sitanadi has immense potential and the resources to emerge as one of the finest wildlife destinations and also an important tiger sanctuary in Central India. Wildlife enthusiasts and nature lovers looking for new ways to explore India’s wilderness, will love the experience here.

ANDHRA PRADESH

CORINGA WILDLIFE SANCTUARYLocated in the East Godavari District of Andhra Pradesh, the Coringa Wildlife Sanctuary, off the city of Kakinada’s coast, is India’s second largest swatch of mangroves. It lies at the confluence of the delta of the mighty Godavari River, the second largest river in India, and the Bay of Bengal. The Godavari forms a mighty basin, which supports unique landscapes and biodiversity in both the Western and Eastern Ghats.The Sanctuary has an impressive diversity of marine and avian fauna, and is home to almost 35 species of mangroves. Coringa is also where you will see the endangered fishing cat, and the smooth-coated otter, among other rare species.

TAMIL NADU

VEDANTHANGAL BIRD SANCTUARYThe oldest bird sanctuary in India, the Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary is a gorgeous wild retreat dotted with mangrove islands, evergreen scrub, and thorn forests. There are between 10,000 and 20,000 birds every season – resting, breeding, and sheltering on the many partially submerged trees here. Vedanthangal is a treasure trove for not just birders but also people of all ages who would love to explore the wilderness at an easy pace. Watch out especially for the white ibis, Asian spoonbill, grey pelican, rosy pelican, sandpiper, night heron, and cormorant.

GULF OF MANNAR MARINE

NATIONAL PARK

The stunning Marine Park comprises 21 islands which are about 8 km off the coast of Tamil Nadu. Spread along a 560 km stretch, the Park is the core area of the Gulf of Mannar Biosphere Reserve which is home to estuaries, mudflats, beaches, forests,

coral reefs, salt marshes, sea grasses, and mangroves. Established in 1980, the Park is the first marine Biosphere Reserve in India and one of the world’s richest regions in terms of marine bio-diversity, covering the beautiful south-eastern coasts of Rameswaram, Tuthukodi, Tirunelveli, and Kanyakumari in the sparkling waters of the Indian Ocean.

The Park is renowned for its astonishingly large and diverse marine flora and fauna, gorgeous coral reefs, and a number of rare and endangered species. The Dugong, an endangered marine mammal, is the ‘star’ species of the land. You’ll also see several species of whale, the bottlenose dolphin, finless porpoise, and endangered marine turtles alongside hundreds of other marine species.

You can bird-watch here too! Migratory visitors include crab plovers, broad billed sandpiper, red knot, red necked phalarope, bar tailed godwit, dunlin etc. A stunning sight is the flocks of flamingos during the winter.All islands are uninhabited. A permit is required to visit the islands as visitors are not allowed on them. You can hire glass-bottomed boats to see the Park in all its marine glory.

KERALA

SILENT VALLEY NATIONAL PARK

Silent Valley is one of the rare patches of untouched tropical rainforest in the Western Ghats, lying in the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve. Cut off on all sides by escarpments and steep ridges, the plateau stands isolated – allowing Silent Valley to evolve as an ecological oasis of sorts, preserving fauna and flora over

some 50 million years. The Park lies within a small radius of just 9.52 sq km. From the watchtower in Sairandhiri, are fabulous views of the mountains. A lovely trail leads down to the River Kunthi. Spot birds, the giant squirrel, and the endangered lion-tailed macaque and Nilgiri langur. This is butterfly realm so feast your eyes!

ERAVIKULAM NATIONAL PARK

Once the hunting preserve of British colonial planters, Eravikulam today epitomises the finest form of wildlife conservation in India. The hero of the Park is the Nilgiri tahr, a highly endangered species of wild goat which

was nearly poached to extinction in the 1950s. But soon the habitat was declared a sanctuary and poaching banned of course. The Park today is home to large numbers of the shy ungulates. Sitting lofty at 7,000 feet, Eravikulam also offers spectacular views that are both vast and diverse. The Director’s Leap Viewpoint is very popular.

KARNATAKA

BHADRA WILDLIFE SANCTUARYAlso known as the Bhadra Tiger Reserve, the Sanctuary lies in the stunning Western Ghats, surrounded by the vast expanse of the Baba Budanagiri Range. The Reserve is nourished by the River Bhadra and its tributaries. Spread across nearly 500 sq km, Bhadra is home not only to the tiger but also the panther, bison, sloth bear, wild dog, wild boar, flying squirrel, and some 200 species of birds. But one of the

SOUTH

TEESTA VERMA

Born and raised in an army environment, Teesta has travelled

widely and complements her passion for the outdoors with photography, poetry, and travel writing. She shares

her knowledge and expertise in developing new and exciting

programs for Purequest Adventures. Teesta can be contacted at [email protected] Sitting lofty at 7,000

feet, Eravikulam also offers spectacular views that are both vast and diverse. The hero of the Park is the Nilgiri tahr.

Stork Bird

Bottlenose dolphin

Eravikalum National Park

Lion-tailed Macaque

Indian whistling teals

Asian Spoonbill

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GOA

MOLLEM NATIONAL PARK

Close to the eastern border of Goa with Karnataka, lies the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary; within the Sanctuary lies the core area, Mollem National Park, and together they cover about 240 sq. km. Here, dense evergreen to deciduous forests make it the perfect habitat for assorted wildlife such as the langur, bison, sloth bear, porcupine, flying lizard, wild boar, panther and many species of snakes and birds.

The best way to explore the Park is the mud trails. As you trek through the lush forest keep your eyes peeled for the exotic animals and birds inside. For a panoramic view of the surrounding hills and valleys at dusk, visit Sunset Point.

MAHARASHTRA

MELGHAT TIGER RESERVE

Melghat’s remarkable terrain is defined not only by its vast tracts of inviolate natural forests that comprise unique ecosystems and rich bio-diversity but also steep, jagged cliffs, rocky ravines, deep valleys, high hills,

and rivers – all these naturally protect this beautiful reserve from encroachers. Located where Maharashtra meets Madhya Pradesh in the South Western Satpura mountain ranges, Melghat is spread over 3600 sq km – encompassing the Gugamal National Park, the Melghat Wildlife Sanctuary, and the neighbouring deciduous Reserve Forests.

Melghat is a wonderful jungle experience for tourists, and presents some incredible photo opportunities. The Reserve is home to abundant wildlife – the flying squirrel, leopard, sloth bear, porcupine, pangolin, python, otter, black-naped hare etc. There are both early morning and evening Jeep safaris into the forest, starting from Semadoh, one of the entry points to the Reserve.There are many trekking routes along the River Sipna making for plenty of birdwatching too. You may even get a glimpse of the rare Forest Owlet!

GUJARAT

MARINE NATIONAL PARK, GULF OF KUTCHThe Marine National Park is situated on the southern coast of the Gulf of Kutch. The Gulf of Kutch, located on the west coast of India is an

arm of the Arabian Sea. It is the first National Marine Park of India.

There are 42 islands on the Jamnagar coast in the Park, most of them surrounded by reefs. 33 of these have coral reefs.

With sandy beaches, mangrove swamps, coral reefs, mudflats, creeks, sea grass and sea weed, estuaries, saline grasslands, marshy areas and rocky shores, the islands

are a treasure-trove of diverse eco-systems, unique marine species and a paradise for birdwatchers.

Every day at low tide it is a sheer thrill to watch countless coastal birds gathering here to feed on beached marine life. In winter they are joined by stunning migratory birds – you can see them flying in V-formations over the Gulf of Kutch in flocks of several thousands.

WEST

The best way to explore Mollem National Park is the mud trails. As you trek through the lush forest keep your eyes peeled for the exotic animals and birds inside. For a panoramic view of the surrounding hills and valleys at dusk, visit Sunset Point.

There are 42 islands on the Jamnagar coast in the Park, most of them surrounded by reefs. 33 of these have coral reefs.

biggest attractions here is the Jagara Giant – no, not an animal. Actually a 300 year-old teak tree whose girth measures a whopping 5.21 metres!

Bhadra’s enchanting world can be explored and experienced through trekking or a jungle safari. There’s a lovely nature trail at the Muthodi Gate for those who want to see the forest on foot. Elephants gather at the Nagarbhavi Lake. The watering hole at Talbidrekere is an excellent spot to see plenty of wildlife. And tigers are likeliest to be seen in Daddahadlu, Chandanahadlu, and near the Jenkalgiri Caves.

THE ANDAMAN ISLANDS

MAHATMA GANDHI MARINE

NATIONAL PARK

The Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park is at Wandoor, which is 29 km south-west of Port Blair, and is an easy bus ride away. The NP, which was created in 1983, protects and conserves some fantastic coral beds and the tropical marine eco-system here. It covers an area of 280 sq. km, and has 15 uninhabited tropical islands thick with lush forests and mangroves. The rich marine life includes exotic and rare species of fish, lovely shells, and beautifully coloured corals. While on land, you can see several wonderful species of birds and plants. Only two islands are open to visitors – Jolly Buoy and Red Skin – alternatively for 6 months each. Tours begin at Wandoor village with a ferry ride through some stunning mangroves, and also include a tour of the coral reef in a glass-bottomed boat, snorkelling, and a drop-off at the beach where you can spend the next couple of hours. The two islands have gorgeous talcum-white beaches and offer simply outstanding views of the underwater corals and marine life.

Jagara Giant - Teak tree

Malabar pied hornbills Forest Owlet

Flamingos

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HIMACHAL PRADESHPIN VALLEY NATIONAL PARK

Located in Spiti, the Pin Valley National Park is sheer paradise for the adventurous explorer. At heights ranging from 11,480-19,680 feet, the Park offers spectacular scenery, high-altitude trekking, and glimpses of rare creatures like the snow leopard, ibex and blue sheep. Trekking is the only way to explore the Park. The famous Great Himalayan National Park lies adjacent to it.

UTTARAKHAND

RAJAJI NATIONAL PARK

Lying in the foothills of the Shivalik Range, covered by sal forests, the Rajaji National Park is famed for its wild elephants, especially the majestic, awe-inducing male tuskers. In the monsoon, birdlife is abundant here, as also in the winter, when the migratory flocks fly in. A Jeep safari is the best way to explore the Park.

ODISHA

BHITARKANIKA NATIONAL PARK

The Bhitarkanika National Park has much to recommend it – the largest nesting site of the endangered Olive Ridley Turtles, creeks, forests, crocodiles and otters, temples, and the ruins of a king’s hunting tower.

A Ramsar Wetland Site, Bhitarkanika covers 672 sq. km. Part of the Park is the beautiful Gahirmatha Marine (Wildlife) Sanctuary, a rookery for the Olive Ridleys. The Sanctuary’s river systems are the protected habitats of the saltwater crocodiles – the largest among all species of living crocodiles – and mangrove forests.

Bhitarkanika is best explored by motorboat. Dangmal, nestled amidst forests and creeks

has the most animals to spot. Walk inside the Bhitarkanika Forest Block through dense forests, meadows, past lotus pond and creeks. Bagagahana Island is the nesting site for as many as 30,000 herons.

WEST BENGALGORUMARA NATIONAL PARK

Consistently on the top of the list of wildlife sanctuaries in North Bengal, the Gorumara National Park lies in the eastern Dooars near the River Murti and brims with species such as the elephant, Greater Indian one-horned rhino, Indian bison, leopard, sloth bear, wild boar, Indian wild dog, and Indian wolf. A well-organised park, Gorumara has four excellent watchtowers inside the jungle and offers great Jeep and elephant safaris to the forest.

ARUNACHAL PRADESHNAMDAPHA NATIONAL PARK

The easternmost National Park in India is a wildlife enthusiast’s dream destination. Lying in the Tirap Valley in the Eastern Himalayas, Namdapha’s near inaccessibility has protected it from destruction. Namdapha is the only park in the world that hosts four of the big cats – the tiger, leopard, clouded leopard, and snow leopard. The Park’s dense forests are

EAST

NORTHEAST

NORTHthe Northeast. Pakke is the only Hornbill sanctuary in India. The forest around the Reserve protects four

hornbill species – great hornbills, wreathed,

oriental pied and the rufus-necked.

The Park is home to the tiger, leopard, jungle cat, civets, weasel, mongooses, Asiatic black bear, wild dog, Asiatic jackal, Asian elephant, gaur, sambar, barking deer, and wild pig.

The Reserve is remarkable for how the village elders of the Nyishi tribe play the most important role in the protection and conservation of the forests here. The highlights of the Reserve include Jeep safaris, birdwatching. The famous Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary can also be explored from here.

ASSAM

MANAS NATIONAL PARK

Situated on the Indo-Bhutan border, the Manas National Park was once the hunting ground of the royal family. The spectacular Park has the remarkable distinction of being a wildlife sanctuary, tiger Reserve, national park, biosphere hotspot, elephant reserve,

A Ramsar Wetland Site, Bhitarkanika covers 672 sq. km. Part of the Park is the beautiful Gahirmatha Marine (Wildlife) Sanctuary, a rookery for the Olive Ridleys.

and UNESCO World Heritage Site (Natural)! The Park is home to tigers, elephants, wild buffalos, and the sambar and swamp deer; it is watered by the Manas, Hakua, and Beki rivers. Enjoy Jeep safaris, elephant safaris, jungle walks and river rafting on the Manas.

NAMERI NATIONAL PARK

The Park lies in the foothills of the Eastern Himalayas in Sonitpur District. The park is a Tiger Reserve and also home to wild elephants and several hundred bird species. Experience trekking, river rafting, birdwatching and a visit to the Pygmy Hog Breeding Centre.

also home to several species of macaque, and the endangered Hoolock gibbon. Birds such as the hornbill and Bengal florican nest and fly free in the 2,000 km Park. There are over 150 species of trees and thousands of colourful butterflies. And at least five kinds of leeches! So wear Leech Guards before entering the Park.

The deep interiors of this uninhabited forest land are unbelievably magical. Once you are inside, the only places from where you will glimpse expanses of the sky are the campsites. The rest is completely covered by a dense dark green canopy. And since there is no habitation inside, the sense of tremendous solitude is overwhelming.

PAKKE TIGER RESERVE

Situated on the border with Assam, the Pakke Tiger Reserve falls in the Eastern Himalaya Biodiversity Hotspot. Contiguous with the Nameri Tiger Reserve of Assam, the 862 sq. km Reserve is not only an important habitat for the big cats but also one of the last strongholds of rare and endangered species of flora and fauna, and the iconic hornbill of

Mountain Goat Drury’s Jewel moth

Clouded Leopard

An animal’s eyes have the power to

speak a great language.

- Martin Buber

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INTO THE BEAUTIFUL FOREST –

HOME OF THE SHADOWY CAT

There is no prettiness here to invite the stranger in. Yet, to the world at large, this archipelago is known as the Sundarban, which means the beautiful forest.

- From the book ‘The Hungry Tide’ by Amitav Ghosh

DESTINATION

Sundarban National Park

WESTBENGAL

INDIA

Traditional fishing boat in Sundarbans National Park



DESTINATION

the ‘Call of the Wild’ in the Sundarbans National Park is irresistible. The

magnificent and much feared Royal Bengal Tiger; predatory crocodiles; rare birds; abundant aquatic and terrestrial wildlife; and a serene yet unforgiving landscape of shifting tides, swampy waterways, and mysterious wooded forests, cast a spell that’s hard to break long after.

The Sundarbans National Park, the largest mangrove eco-system in the world, is an enigma. It is the only known place on the planet, where tigers seem to be man-eaters by choice. Experts on tiger behaviour – including the legendary hunter turned conservationist the late Jim Corbett – have always maintained that tigers shun human beings and become man-eaters by accident. Why then, are the Sundarbans tiger different? No one knows. There is much conjecture but no conclusive answers or explanations.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Sundarbans National Park is an archipelago of 102 small islands on the Ganga-Brahmaputra Delta. A watery landscape where river and sea merge, where freshwater and salt aren’t divided by borders. Only around 52 of these islands are inhabited and can be accessed only by steamers from the mainland. So, no jeep safaris here! In fact, visitors, and even locals, are permitted limited access to the jungles due to the risks posed by tigers, snakes, and other wildlife. Still, some of these inhabited islands have resort facilities for tourists. The more adventurous of course choose to book houseboats for their stay.

The only way to explore the Sundarbans is by boat or steamer and the experience is spellbinding. The visuals around you – deep,

tantalising Bengali cuisine – is prepared on board.

Most of the cruises come to a close by late afternoon.

After the cruise, it’s time for a village walk. The walk is a wonderful way to not only interact with the villagers but also to understand and appreciate the way of life here. It’s a humbling experience to see the indomitable spirit of the hardy islanders in the face of all adversity. Village walks also offer an excellent opportunity to buy the famous local honey – sourced from the Sundarbans forests – and other souvenirs. In the evenings, guests are usually entertained with tribal dances and cultural programmes. Lively bonfires are lit for more fun and frolic. The day finally comes to a fitful finish with a satisfying dinner.When you are in the Sundarbans, make sure you don’t miss the Crocodile Pond, Bonbibi Temple, Tiger Rehabilitation Centre, Sudhanyakhali Watchtower, Jhingekhali Watch Tower, and Bonnie Camp Watchtower.

It’s important to note here that visiting all the different parts of the Sundarbans and enjoying activities such as tribal dances and bonfires depend upon your particular interests and the kind of tour package you book. So do take your time and carefully choose the package that best suits your interests.

And though you may be trying hard to scan the shoreline for a sighting of the elusive cat, a pugmark in the mud even, you ought to know that only exceptionally lucky visitors spot the Royal Bengal Tiger – that too from a watchtower or perhaps catch a fleeting glimpse, while cruising. (But if your hearing is sharp, you could try and listen for them). In fact, most of the natives here – in the twilight of their lives – have also not seen a tiger ever and they are thankful. They believe that the one who spots a tiger here will not live to tell the tale. Of course, there are exceptions as some people have survived tiger attacks. But, those are rare.

The Sundarbans tigers have an abundance of natural prey in the forests at their disposal but they still like to prowl human habitats by swimming across to the inhabited islands. Yes, they deliberately swim across and have

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Sundarbans National Park is an archipelago of 102 small islands onthe Ganga-Brahmaputra Delta.

The Sundarbans tigers have an abundance of natural prey in the forests at their disposal but they still like to prowl human habitats by swimming across to the inhabited islands.

no fear of man. Unlike most large cats, the tigers here can swim tirelessly for miles from island to island. In fact, there have been incidents where tigers have quietly treaded the waters, stealthily leapt into fishing boats and carried off their victims into the jungles in the blink of an eye! Tigers typically attack from behind or from the side.

So great is the terror of tigers here that the islanders don’t utter the word ‘baagh’ (Bengali for tiger). Instead, they use the name ‘Dakkhin Rai’, (demon king of the south) as they believe that saying the word ‘baagh’ aloud will attract the beast. All this may sound like superstitious mumbo-jumbo to the city dweller but there is solid ground for this fear. One of the villages in the Sundarbans is called ‘Vidhwa Gaon’ (village of widows) as most of the menfolk here have succumbed to tiger attacks.

Fishermen, and firewood and honey collectors are allowed to access limited parts of the jungle during certain months; many of them however, have also been snatched by tigers. It is a tradition to offer prayers to Bonbibi (guardian goddess of the forest who protects her devotees) before venturing out.Perhaps, Mother Nature intended that there should be at least one place on the planet where the tiger could remain true to itself – a ferocious hunter. Never the hunted. The story goes that the tigers of the Sundarbans never learned to fear man; possibly because the harsh and intimidating terrain stopped man from mindlessly hunting and killing here, and instilling terror.

dark, impenetrable forests, knobby roots of mangrove trees as they grip the tidal mudflats, and murky, maze-like waterways – are savagely beautiful and intensely rewarding. As you cruise the seemingly (yes!) placid waters, the indescribable thrill of being here is only heightened by the many exciting anecdotes and tales of the jungles shared by the experienced guide accompanying you.

For those of you who would especially love to see the wildlife here, it is quite common to spot huge saltwater crocodiles, Irrawaddy dolphins, and lots of colourful birds during the cruise. Also, fleeting glimpses of deer, wild boar, monkeys, and other animals in the jungles keep the atmosphere charged with

DAVID BARON DULCE

A part of the travel industry for over 15 years, David joined the

Hotelbeds group in Palma in March 2014. He heads Pure Quest Adventures (PQA) and also supports product development for Destination

Services (DS). (just confirm this)David loves to travel free and light.

He is a huge fan of hardboiled novels and thriller movies, and loves Indian, Thai, Spanish, and Mexican cuisines.David can be contacted at [email protected]

Royal Bengal Tiger Sundarbans delta Circa

Axis Deer

Crocodile

excitement! But yes, all from a distance since the cruise boats are not allowed to venture too close to the fearsome island forests.

A word of caution! Avoid dipping your hands in the waters during the cruise because you never know what lurks beneath – a crocodile might just be lying in wait! At least, that’s what my guide told me. Now this may be an exaggeration but it is definitely prudent to NOT try and find out!

Most of the Sundarbans cruises include a trip to the islands of Sajnekhali and Dobanki. The islands are famous for their secure fenced-off watchtowers offering panoramic views of the jungles and wildlife. At Dobanki, there is a 20 feet high canopy walkway as well. The views of the untamed jungles from the canopy walkway and the watchtower are unforgettable.

As lunchtime approaches, you find that your hunger pangs have increased tenfold! Perhaps the still jungle air and the overall atmosphere of the river cruise tend to make you especially ravenous. You won’t have to wait long though. A hearty feast – usually


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If a man aspires towards a righteous life, his first act of abstinence is from injury to animals.

- Albert Einstein

My favourite animal is – yes this is the best line with which to start sharing my

experience with the only ape of India – the Hoolock Gibbon.

I have seen gibbons in different zoos but I always wanted to see them in their natural habitat. Though I have spent over seven years in the jungles of India studying different kinds of wildlife including tigers, I have never had the chance to see this beautiful ape. This year though, I was given an assignment to visit the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary and the Kaziranga Tiger Reserve with our USA clients. Both these parks have a resident population of gibbons and other primates, though the sightings are better in the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary.

The Kaziranga Tiger Reserve is known for having one of the highest densities of tigers and one-Horned Rhinos in the wild. However, Kaziranga has large populations of many other endangered species, notably the Asiatic Wild Buffalo (largest population in the world), Asian Elephant, Eastern Swamp deer and many more. It is equally rich in avian diversity with over 490 bird species.

A WILD DATE

IN KAZIRANGA

The Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary falls under the district of Jorhat in the Northeastern state of Assam and was notified in 1997. The area of the Sanctuary is around 20 sq. km. The Sanctuary has the distinction of being one of the few spots in Assam with the highest density of gibbon populations and the only sanctuary named after the ape. The Sanctuary was earlier known as the Hollongapar Reserve Forest and was notified as a reserve forest in 1881. It is surrounded by tea gardens almost on all sides including a few villages. Apart from the Gibbons, the sanctuary is also home to other primates – the Capped Langur, Pig Tailed Macaque, Assamese Macaque, Rhesus Macaque, Stumped Tailed Macaque, and Slow Loris –

the reason why the Sanctuary is known to have the highest diversity of primates in India. The other animals here include the Asian Elephant, Tiger, Leopard, Leopard Cat, Barking Deer, Wild Boar, Chinese Porcupine, Chinese Pangolin, and Giant Squirrel.

The Hoolock Gibbon is the only ape species found in India amongst 9 species of the western most lesser apes of South – East Asia and 28 species of gibbons and

DESTINATION

Kaziranga National ParkASSAM

INDIA

Hoolock Gibbon



siamangs globally. The distribution of the Hoolock is restricted to the monsoon and evergreen forests of Northeast India south of Brahmaputra River, Bangladesh, Southern Yunnan, and Myanmar. They are among the most primitive of the living apes. Among their characteristic features are their unique arm-over-arm way of locomotion called brachiation, their species-specific songs, and – rare among mammals – their monogamous pairing i.e. living with the same partner life-long. They spend most of their lives in trees and are territorial by nature; the adult males are black with continuous white eyebrows turned up at the ends, while adult females are light brown with a whitish ring around the eyes and muzzle. The infants are born with a pale white pelage that matches the mother’s coat. The coat progressively darkens till it becomes dark grey at over a year and entirely black by the age of two. The young of both sexes are therefore black; males retain the colour while the female again changes colour at puberty, around 6-8 years of age.

They are known for their ‘duets’ – loud and elaborate songs mostly sung by adults,

in which the young may also join in. The primary function of the song is thought to be vocal defense of territory. They sing more frequently during times of high fruit availability to protect their resources.

My journey to the wonderful Northeast region of India started from the airport of Jorhat. Jorhat is a small town and has a small airport, mostly for the use of the Armed Forces (You are not supposed to take photographs here, if you have practice to take one at each airport for memory). When we walked out, I saw a person carrying a placard with the name of my group with which I

was travelling as a group leader. It was a hot time of the year in other parts of India but the weather was very pleasant in Assam – it seems they had good rains there. A car came to pick us up and we soon started our journey to the Kaziranga Tiger Reserve, where we were supposed to stay for three nights. After three hours, we reached our destination – the Diphlu River Lodge, a wonderful place to stay in Kaziranga. Our rooms were very comfortable and designed in the style of local huts. At dinner, we were briefed about the next day’s activity by the resident Naturalist.

The next day we went on a safari in the Reserve – we sighted many rhinos and of course pugmarks, but even though Kaziranga has the highest density of tigers, spotting one is extremely difficult. In the evening we discussed the sightings of the day and concluded that apart from the rhinos, it was the Great Hornbill – a big tropical bird

Among their characteristic features are their unique arm-over-arm way of locomotion called brachiation, their species-specific songs, and – rare among mammals – their monogamous pairing i.e. living with the same partner life-long.

A local gibbon conservation organisation had made a bridge of sorts over the railway track which gibbons and other primates could use to cross the railway line.

with multiple colours, a royal bird, and my favourite too – that really stole the show!.At dinner, we discussed the plan for the following day, the day when we would be going to my favourite place! We decided to sleep early so that we could rise early since we had to travel around 132 km – a journey of about three hours.

Morning I woke up early, excited and bit nervous, feeling like going I was going to see the love of my life after a long time! We departed on time with a packed breakfast and reached the Sanctuary at around 7:00 am. We had breakfast outside the Sanctuary though, because eatables aren’t allowed during walks inside. I was happy to finally be at the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary but also a bit sad when I saw a railway line crossing the Sanctuary, dividing it into two unequal fragments and thereby creating two habitat islands for primates like gibbons who seldom come down on ground. But later, I came to know that a local gibbon conservation organisation had made a bridge of sorts over the railway track which gibbons and other primates could use to cross the railway line.

After breakfast we applied insect repellent

VIBHAV SRIVASTAVA

Educated and trained as a wildlife biologist, Vibhav brings with him

12 years of experience in the field– five years of which he spent studying the various aspects of wildlife and

ecology in different national parks and wildlife sanctuaries.

At Le Passage, Vibhav designs various wildlife programs and also accompanies clients on tours. He can be contacted at [email protected]

DESTINATION

on our bodies as well as on our shoes to prevent us from not only insect bites but also leech attacks! Senses acutely heightened, we started walking with a forest guard, a tracker, and our naturalist from the lodge when suddenly we heard our tracker who was walking far ahead of us. Excitedly we ran to where he was – it was a troupe of Capped Langur in the middle canopy of the moist forest; we took some photos, observed them for few minutes, and then again started walking on the track. What a great forest, big trees, giant ferns, orchids, lianas, and much, much more. The forest holds amazing biodiversity, all within an area of just 20 sq. km. On the way we spotted giant wood spiders, interesting birds and butterflies, and a black giant squirrel. I thought I could spend months here to learn the flora and fauna of the sanctuary.

“HOO – HOO – HOO – HOO – HOO – HOO…” we heard this call finally and rushed to the

spot. The tracker or spotter was standing in front of a big tree called ‘Hollong’

– the state tree of Assam, the tree with a buttress tree trunk – and

was pointing to a tree canopy far from the walking track. THERE was a pair of Hoolock Gibbons! But wait. There was one more male…no, no it was a juvenile…wow, what a sighting! As soon as they saw us they started brachiating

from one branch to another and from one tree to another

tree…a spectacular sight! My group and I were amazed by the act

of this primitive ape.

After a while the male and juvenile got used to our presence and became a little at ease, giving us ample chance to photograph them; and though it was a bit cloudy and the light not too good, I managed to take some pretty good pictures. My group was supremely happy; in fact, they didn’t expect that kind of rare sighting; and yes of course I was perhaps the happiest amongst them.

Soon after that, we tracked a few more pairs but that was far away from the road and under the dense canopy, we could only hear their song.

Big endangered indian rhinoceros in Kaziranga National Park Great Hornbill

Indian Wild Buffalo

Babbler

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The thin line dividing a tourist and a traveller is the choice one makes

in deciding the destination. The former will choose a new city to visit, whereas the latter will keep returning to nature.

- Prabhat Verma

Satpura National ParkMADHYA PRADESH

INDIA



PRODUCT FEATURE

I was invited by a friend-cum-host to join him and a few others on a challenging trek

through the core of a Wildlife Park, which I must admit, didn’t even know was possible. I had walked all my life in the mountains and the plains but, the thought of walking in the wilderness seemed too good to be true. And I thought then, who knows how long something like this will be allowed…so I grabbed the offer and looked forward to my first sojourn in a jungle on foot.

A short flight to Bhopal and a comfortable three-hour drive, via the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Bhimbetka, brings one to

Madhai – popularly known as Satpura. A group of eight, we had split ourselves into three Innovas and had not had a chance for a formal introduction at the airport, so we decided to break the ice over a hot cup of tea and a fresh breakfast of Poha (a savoury dish of beaten rice flakes) and Jalebi (a pretzel shaped sweet made of a batter of plain flour, deep-fried, and soaked in sugar syrup) at a roadside stall. Besides two travel agents, the small group comprised a travel blogger, a staff

from NAT GEO, a hotel representative, our naturalist, our host, and a local guide who had walked the same trek over a dozen times. Our host chose to transfer us to the lodge on a private boat instead of driving us up there, which is what is done usually. This turned out to be a great option given the searing heat.

#PugdundeeSafaris organises the treks with great care, efficiency, and attention to detail, leaving little else to desire. The first night of the tour should ideally be spent at their lodge in Satpura – the Denwa Backwater Escape. This is where you are introduced to the jungle and its unpredictable terrain.

We decided to go for a night safari on the day of our arrival itself, and it turned out to be quite an adventure. Ahead of us, a few jeeps had spotted a leopard in the fields whereas our searchlights refused to fall on it! We did spot some other game though, in the bargain.At Denwa, the luxury lodge is incidentally the only one that faces the River Denwa. The restaurant deck is inviting – making you want to retire to this spot forever as it overlooks the addictive landscape. The cottages and tree houses have sit-outs that seem to radiate tranquility; and from the soft, sink-in comfort

of your bed, the big glass doors and windows offer beautiful views of the Denwa.

The little known cousin of the Bandavgarh and Kanha wildlife parks in the Central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, Satpura is unique because it is only here that one can experience a Jeep Safari, Walking Safari, Boat Safari, and Night Safari. What makes the Park stand out however is the Jungle Trek through its core zone that had challenged the adventurers in us. Where else will you walk in a forest, camp in mobile tents, sense wild boars, sloth bears, and leopards around, and sign off from civilisation for a few days? The stunningly beautiful park allows for traversing through it till the opposite end at Pachmarhi over three days of walking and camping in the heart of unfriendly and harsh outback country.

The trek can be done from Satpura to Pachmarhi or in the reverse direction, with an option of camping for one, two or three nights at the beautiful sites of Dhelia, Manakachar, and Jamani Dev respectively, all in the Pachmarhi Biosphere Reserve. The Reserve was established in 1999 keeping in mind its vast natural resources, diverse and

A short flight to Bhopal and a comfortable three-hour drive, via the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Bhimbetka, brings one to Madhai –

popularly known as Satpura.

What makes the Park stand out however is the Jungle Trek through its core zone that had challenged the adventurers in us.

PRABHAT VERMA

Prabhat has been instrumental in designing unique active-holiday

experiences given his vast outdoor experience in areas of wildlife, adventure and photography.

He can be contacted at [email protected]

Male Leopard

Poha and Jalebi Sloth Bear


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rich flora and fauna, rare topography, and the presence of a large tribal population. The total area of the reserve is approximately 5,000 sq. km of which the Satpura National Park comprises the core zone. The Satpura Mountain Range exhibits a large variety of geological rock and soil formations, and serves as a natural junction for the two most important timber species – Teak and Sal.

The FORSYTH TRAIL, as the jungle trek is called, is an adrenaline-pumping activity – not for the faint-hearted. Though extremely safe and professionally carried out, it has an air of edgy suspense, and a certain intriguing quality which will make you look at every tree with suspicion – as if it camouflages some wild creature you are yet to encounter! You will be in awe at every alarm call for a beast around while the naturalist shares interesting stories about the foliage. An

authority on plants, trees, birds, reptiles, and other fascinating aspects of the forest, our naturalist had something interesting to say about everything we wondered at. Interestingly, the trail doesn’t focus on animals or birds but on the trek itself, which is the main draw here. The trek is conducted on the original route taken by Captain Forsyth in 1857 – he entered the civil services of the East India Company and came to India as an Assistant Conservator of forests. For those who want an easier and more comfortable option, there are many day-treks offered by #PugdundeeSafaris#, which require

no camping and will bring the walkers back to the comfort of the lodge.

The campsites on the trail have been carefully chosen for their picturesque backdrop, green meadows, and accessibility to the river. The rugged terrain is demanding and challenging but it does come with a dash of luxury in the mobile camps that are pitched exclusively for guests as per their itinerary.

The detailing includes hot showers, delicious food, sundowners, comfortable beds, and a choice of nightcaps before slipping into a cosy blanket. This is undoubtedly a luxury in the middle of the harsh outback that shows no mercy for it is meant to be treaded

intelligently and carefully. Each campsite is run by a crew of around 20 members, who leave no stone unturned in taking care of guests’ comfort to levels of utmost perfection. Lunches are set up under the canopies of trees or by a rivulet, offering a much awaited break after being out in the scorching sun.

The first day’s trek is 20 km but has a mix of ascents and descents, which can be tricky at times. The views get better and better as the height you gain opens up more vistas. A Serpent Eagle accompanied us by springing from one tree to another for quite some time, till it decided to fly off for better options. Parakeets, Drongos, Green Bee Eaters, Blue Rock Thrush, Green Sandpipers, Spotted Doves, Yellow Footed Green Pigeon, Lapwings, and a few other common birds also made regular appearances. A silence prevails in the jungle and the chirping of birds is interrupted only by the crackle of Sal leaves under one’s feet. Without a sign of civilisation or life for miles and miles, one feels happy to be disconnected from the rest of the world. The only solace is that there are people waiting at the camp which doesn’t seem to be in sight anyway. The forested path throws

up the wonderful play of sunlight and shade as your feet start racing at the sight of a large Arjuna or Banyan tree for a much awaited breather to cool off. You stop for lunch after having walked for 10 km – a walk that can take up to 4 hours. The much needed break

energises you for another ten. Though quite long and tiring,

the day conditions you for the following one that

has a longer distance to cover.

The 25 km-long walk on day two is quite a contrast between

its pre and post lunch sessions. The first half is

through dense forest with great birdlife; the post-lunch

session however, is probably the most demanding one. It is all about

taking calculated leaps over big boulders that line the banks of the River Denwa. The trick is to start early and walk from dawn to dusk as it can leave one extremely drained and sapped. Despite the ruggedness it posed, the trail was scenic and full of old and lofty Arjuna trees that had roots entwined on their trunks – making for great photo stops. A keen ear will hear the sounds of the Giant Malabar Squirrels, which are native to the forest but also quite deceptive and shy. The naked eye could only see boulders till the horizon and we wondered if this would ever change. With

The total area of the reserve is approximately 5,000 sq. km of which the Satpura National Park comprises thecore zone.

constant stops to rest our legs and drink water, we ensured we were not dehydrated. The sun however didn’t appreciate the breaks we took and set at its usual time, leaving a long distance still to be covered. With legs almost giving up, we increased our speed as it had started to get little dark, which only added to the adventure. The last few kilometres were covered using torch lights but then this is what a jungle-trek is all about. It is about expecting the unexpected.

After a delicious breakfast that could be compared to a buffet in a luxury hotel, we left the second campsite and trekked for an hour or so to our transport waiting on the edge of the forest to take us back to our lodge at Satpura. Two nights of camping was good enough to get a taste of the Forsyth Trail.

Once back at the river-facing lodge, we decided to go on a bird-walk along the river and were mesmerised by the sunset, one of the most beautiful ones we had ever seen. The walk offered sights of rose-ringed Parakeets, Black hooded Ioras, Woody Shrikes, Indian Rollers to name just a few avian beauties.

On the last day of the trip we had a Boat Ride on the river planned for us – a highlight of the park. This was an opportunity to see some beautiful birds up close. We saw Black Winged Stilts, Bar headed geese, Woolly necked Storks, Sandpipers, River Lapwings, White breasted Kingfishers, Larks, White browed Wagtails, Pied Kingfishers, River Terns, Red Shanks, Ringed Plovers, Barn Swallows, an Osprey catch a fish, Cormorants, Darters, and a few others. The icing on the cake though, was spotting the Indian Skimmers, as only six of them had made it to Satpura this season. The beautiful bird with a red beak is a photographer’s delight!

After the boat ride, we went back to the lodge for brunch, before leaving for the Bhopal Airport with heavy hearts. The Satpura jungle and its magic was tough to leave behind. It had captivated me beyond imagination. I felt closest to nature here and felt like I wanted to make it my home. And even though my commitments in the city beckoned and I had to leave, I knew that I was left enriched by the overpowering beauty of the wilderness and the warm hospitality of wonderful people – an experience and memories to be cherished for a long time to come.

A silence prevails in the jungle and the chirping of birds is interrupted only by the crackle of Sal leaves under one’s feet. Without a sign of civilisation or life for miles and miles, one feels happy to be disconnected from the rest of the world.

PRODUCT FEATURE

Gaint Malabar squirrel

Black Winged Stilt


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come the Malayalam month of Midhunam (mid-June), Kerala drenched and lush with

torrential monsoon rain, is all set to celebrate Ochira Kali at the Ochira Parabrahma Temple 32 km from the Kollam District.

Around the Temple, waterlogged paddy fields are transformed into the famed ‘padanilams’

(battlefields) where the stage is set for a mock

India is a curious place that still preserves the past, religions, and its history. No matter how modern India becomes, it is still very much an old country.

- Anita Desai

OF BULLS AND BATTLEFIELDS –

CELEBRATING

OCHIRA KALIbattle between trained warriors belonging to different ‘karas’ (divisions). They perform a mock fight choreographed in the ancient Kerala martial art style, Kalaripayattu.

Clad in Kerala’s traditional warrior livery, headgear, and armour, and armed with cane sticks (replacing swords!) and shields, around 3,000 experts from 52 localities arrive at the main padanilam. Spread over two days, Ochira Kali is celebrated annually to commemorate the actual battles fought between the neighbouring erstwhile kingdoms of Kayamkulam and Venad 200 or so years ago.

A colourful procession of decorated tuskers and various dance forms – headed by veterans representing each kara – takes a turn around the Temple. The celebrations begin only after the sighting of the auspicious Krishna parunthu (the Brahminy kite; an eagle

believed to be the vehicle of the god Krishna) which flies over the padanilam. Then, leaders of the rival teams race to the field, shake hands, and mutually declare their decision to fight the following day, on the afternoon of which the fighters assemble and show their prowess in thakida kali (fighting style).

The enthralling battle is fought in an ambience of bonhomie and kinship, and performed ceremoniously and rhythmically to the powerful, magnetic beats of the chenda

(traditional percussion) – one side advancing first, then allowing the other side to move forward. Even new participants in the mock battle quickly learn the traditional ‘advance and retreat’ etiquette within a few minutes of joining!

Divided into two groups, the mock warriors jump into the wet field brandishing their sticks and splash muddy water at each other as they try to get the better of each other. But underneath all that fun and revelry lies a spirit of unique camaraderie and sportsmanship.To be able to witness this electrically charged battle scene along with the hundreds

watching it from the banks of the padanilam

is truly one of those experiences of a lifetime that is hard to describe.

Ochira Kali is a remarkable tribute to Kerala’s rich cultural heritage, drawing men of all ages (from 5 to 85!) and faiths to converge in a sacred spot and participate in a wonderful display of skills and fraternity. As for the spectacular performances, people from all over the state – sometimes even country – throng to see them.

Special awards are given to kalari asans

(martial arts masters) by the temple authorities to encourage higher participation every year. There’s also some prize money that performers receive from the organisers of the event. The energetic celebrations of the colourful festival draw to a fitting close with a grand feast at the finish.

Situated on NH47 (National Highway), between Kollam and Alappuzha, the Ochira Temple is unique. The only temple in India dedicated to Parabrahma – the Supreme Consciousness – Ochira has no idol or deity. Instead there are two raised platforms around a couple of huge ficus trees. Lamps are lit here by worshippers. Unlike other temples, Ochira has no definite structure or mode of worship either – in fact, all you will see is a vast tract of land with a couple of trees.

It is believed that the Supreme Consciousness cannot be restricted to or contained within the four walls of a temple. And it is this very quality of infinite vastness that is worshipped here. Interestingly, some historians are of the

opinion that Ochira might once have been a Buddhist vihara (monastery/temple). Perhaps because Karunagappally, a town nearby, was a centre of Buddhism in the old days.

With a credo that says serving mankind is akin to serving god, the Temple today is a place of shelter for anyone seeking not only help but also acceptance.

You will experience another unique sight here. Bulls roam free in Ochira, many within the Temple compound itself. Owing their beloved status to an interesting legend, the tenacious animals – called Ochira Kala – are much revered and hold a special place in Ochira.

After the Festival, if you would like to look around Ochira then you could visit the famed Mata Amruthananda Mayi Devi Ashram at Vallikkavu, which is just 3 km away. Ochira is the gateway to the sprawling Ashram.

Also nearby is the Krishnapuram Palace, built in the 18th century by the erstwhile Travancore king Marthanda Varma Maharaja.

DEEPAK JUYAL

Born and raised in the Himalayan foothills (the Dehradun valley),

Deepak has always loved nature and the outdoors. He has been in the travel industry for the last 12 years, and takes care of

Operations for the Adventure market at Le Passage. His

passions are motor biking, trekking, and rafting. Deepak can be contacted at [email protected]

A ritualistic martial art festival

A ritualistic martial art festivalOchira, Kovalam

KERALA

INDIA

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FLAVOURS OF THE EARTH

FROM MIDDLE INDIA

If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold,it would be a merrier world

- J.R.R. Tolkien

The Gond and Korku were probably early inhabitants of Madhya Pradesh who fished and farmed, living on simple and healthy sorghum, rice, and spice. The rivers they established their villages by have been excellent social networking sites, where the determined travellers of the north-western parts of the Subcontinent itinerated. One of the communities was the Bhil who were warriors and hunters with an emblem of a bow and an arrow. The Bhil community settled in the hilly forests of Central India and convinced themselves to shift to agriculture from hunting. Slowly the influx from the north-west changed the pale wall paintings to energetic coloured Gondi art, staple sorghum to wheat and the earthy flavour of cow-dung powered Baatis floated down the Narmada Valley and wafted up, feeding the rivers of the Satpura too.

GUEST COLUMN

one land travels to another, churning life and geography. This isn’t the languid

continental drift but the faster, the vibrant, the visible, and the tasteful. People.

Madhya Pradesh in geography rests in the heart of India and, as any heart her blood has to pass through her heart from all corners. Of the top inhabiting societies of Madhya Pradesh, it is Rajasthan that brought in more cultural influences to the state than any other. Rajput clans like the Bhagels, Jaiwars, Chandelas, Tomars, and the Sengars earlier settled on the north of the River Narmada until the great Deccan roads opened to travellers and nomadic tribes, to the agriculturists, and to the recent Narmada Dam’s compensated villagers who seeped through to the south. With them came the Rajasthani colours, the soup of religion, the languages, the dance, the music, and to keep it all fuelled – their Daal, Baati, and Churma.

Traditional Rajasthani Thali

MADHYA PRADESH

INDIA



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Madhya Pradesh in geography rests in the heart of India and, as any heart, her blood has to pass through her heart from all corners. Of the top inhabiting societies of Madhya Pradesh, it is Rajasthan that brought in more cultural influences to the state than any other.

Irrespective of class, special occasions stir up the monotony of rice and sorghum rotis (Indian breads) to fired Baatis, the spicy gumbo to Dal and even their leftovers are celebrated as maleeda. It starts with cleaning the kitchen and plastering the anti-fungal cow-dung on the floor. Artistic husbands with their children paint murals of flowing rivers on kitchen walls and some enthusiasts flow the rivers into the earthen stoves and ovens too! To me, the murals interestingly, honour the Daal-Baati’s

journey up the rivers.

Having said that, I am indebted to a version of Daal-Baati served at the Forsyth Lodge, cooked by the women from Madhai on winter afternoons – it fills the air with a smoky, lingering scent and is served under a Mahua tree to keep the dish as authentic and as close to its roots as possible. The Central Indian edition involves similar ingredients to the Rajasthani edition but with an easier process that makes it a variant. Wheat flour is made into dough and doled out into golf balls and

tapped to flatten a little. These are then baked on dung cakes until they turn brown. While these little appetising orbs mature, their sacred companion, the Daal (lentils) is stewed on the earthen stoves. The baked Baatis are dipped into ghee (clarified butter) for a few minutes. A few Baatis though are refrained from this holy dip for another holier deed. They are mashed and glued

into jaggery and this coarse ball is inlayed with dried dates,

cashews, and almonds to make maleeda; the

unbeatable post-meal molar exercise.

Ideally, Daal-Baati is served in cups lined by the Palash (flame-

of-the –forest) leaf accompanied by ghee

and mashed potatoes with a green chili paste

called Chokha. One needs to let the broken Baatis soak in Dal and ghee

for the aromas to wrap themselves around you and take you on the journey they have travelled.

• 1 teaspoon coriander (dhania) powder• 1/2 teaspoon garam masala

• 3 laung / lavang (cloves)• 2 tejpatta (bay leaves)• 1 teaspoon jeera (cumin seeds)• 2 green chilies, slit• A pinch of heeng (asafoetida) • 2 teaspoons amchur (dried mango

powder)• 3 tablespoons ghee

• Salt to taste

Here is a list of ingredients for the Dal Baati and Maleeda, Central Indian edition, Forsyth Lodge at Satpura version for four people:

INGREDIENTS:

FOR DAL• 1/3 cup chana daal (split Bengal gram)• 1/3 cup tooar/arhar daal

• 1/3 cup moong daal (split green gram)• 1 tablespoon urad daal (split black

lentils)• 1 tablespoon whole moong (whole

green gram)• 3 teaspoons chili powder• 1/4 teaspoon turmeric (haldi) powder

FOR ABOUT 10 BAATIS • 3 cups gehun ka atta (whole wheat

flour) • 2 tablespoons besan (Bengal gram

flour)• 4 tablespoons melted ghee

• Salt to taste

to seRVe

• Melted ghee

• Crushed Baati and jaggery • Boiled potatoes mashed with chopped

green chilies, garlic, and ginger; salt to taste

GUEST COLUMN

VINEETH

Vineith is a storyteller at the Forsyth Lodge, Satpura National Park. A true Mysorean, his love for interesting cuisines spurred Vineith on a journey across the fabulous landscapes of Karnataka. He even worked as a tracker in Agumbe, follow a radio tagged King Cobra to document its elusive habits! But it was a chance discovery of his considerable storytelling skills that eventually saw him working in National Parks and Tiger Reserves.Eventually moving to work in Central India, Vineith is now back in the safari vehicles to tell stories in the Satpuras. Some of his stories are here: rasping.wordpress.com Vineith can be contacted at [email protected]

Sorghum rotis

Maleeda

Arhar Daal



HOTEL FEATURE

Pugdundee Safaris – Pench Tree Lodge is a unique experience, set in one of the

unexplored areas of the Pench National Park, Madhya Pradesh. Located in the picturesque village of Sarahiri, the lodge offers its guests proximity to the Karmajhiri Gate, one of the three entrances to the Park.

At the stunning resort, guests have access to 16 hectares of rolling jungle shrub and

trees in an undisturbed private forested area, to not only explore the region’s beautiful wilderness but also to see and experience its exotic wildlife at close quarters.

Breaking away from the monotony of oft repeated safari lodgings, the Lodge has been designed with an eclectic mix of vintage and natural aesthetics.

The boutique lodge has six luxurious treehouses in the jungles where clearly, Kipling got his inspiration for The Jungle book. Made of local Sal wood and sitting high at 18 feet above the ground, the luxurious abode in the jungle is perched atop Mahua trees and supported by stilts. The tastefully designed treehouses offer guests a slice of wildlife heaven. They are tranquil cocoons yet at an easy distance from the dining and recreational spaces.

THE JUNGLE NOOKI believe sustainable use is the greatest propaganda in wildlife

conservation at the moment

- Steve Irwin

Large French windows allow for an uninterrupted view of the deciduous forest and grassland – offering fantastic views of birds, butterflies, and wild animals close to the Lodge.

The Lodge has recorded over 70 species of birds in its premises alone along with various resident mammals. In fact, guests here have so far seen wild boars, civets, jungle cats, jackals and spotted deer as they sat sipping their morning tea or the evening sundowner on the private deck!

And of course, all the usual comforts are amply and efficiently taken care of:

The Pench Tree Lodge offers its guests a range of delightful experiences which guests may choose according to their interests: Jeep Safaris – morning and evening game drives; Nature Trails and Cycling; Night Trail; Organic Garden; Village Walks and Bazaars; and Bush Dinners.

The resident naturalists here are exceptionally well trained, knowledgeable, English speaking wilderness guides who accompany guests on various game drives, enhancing the overall experience of the safaris. They are only too

happy to share their personal wilderness experiences and other interesting information to enrich

the stay at Pench.

The Pench Tree Lodge is passionate about sustainability

and conservation and all its lodges are built and run according to a stringent eco-conservation ethos. This is the first lodge to be set up in this underdeveloped zone and supports a conservation policy of not overcrowding areas and making them unsustainable with over exposure to tourism.The Lodge consciously and committedly opts for locally grown and sourced food. It has its own organic kitchen garden and whatever is not grown, is sourced as fresh produce from nearby villages. The Lodge is quickly turning to eco-friendly alternatives that make it easy to provide filtered water at all times rather than opting for easy to avail packaged water bottles. They offer stainless steel bottles which can be refilled anytime from the refuelling station.

The Pench Tree Lodge has always strongly believed in providing employment to the locals. Over 70% of the team is from nearby villages for whom skill and capacity building training sessions are regularly conducted. Pench also has Certified Eco Practices audits by TOFT (Travel Operators for Tigers).

• Large French windows that open to a private sit-out deck and a bay window lounger that doubles up as a day bed.

• Large four-poster bed with fine cotton linen and soft mosquito netting.

• Specially curated wildlife art that’s a contemporary take on traditional patchwork.

• Air conditioning [cool or warm, as per weather] and 24-hour power backup.

• Spacious well designed bathroom with 24-hour hot and cold water.

• Complimentary organic toiletries and bathroom essentials.

• A tea and coffee pantry offering a choice of select brews.

• A swimming pool too for the guests to relax in the evenings.

For more information, please visit: www.penchtreelodge.com

Bush Dinner

Breakfast in the jungle

Room inside the tree house


XyzNEWS

SriLankan Airlines launches flights to Hyderabad, eyes more cities in India

In a unique exercise to facilitate visits of tourists to India, the union ministry of tourism has launched a 24x7 toll free multi-lingual tourist helpline. This relates to availability of tourist information and assistance to visiting tourists while travelling in the country. This service is available on the toll free number 1800111363 or on a short code 1363 and operational 24x7 (365 days in a year) offering a ‘Multi-lingual Helpdesk’. The helpline will also advise callers during times of distress, if any, while travelling in India, and will alert the concerned authorities if required.

The Ministry of Tourism has launched the 24x7 toll free multi-lingual tourist helpline in 12 international languages. The languages handled by the tourist helpline include 10 international languages namely Arabic, French, German, Italian, Japanese, Korean, Chinese, Portuguese, Russian and Spanish, including Hindi and English

24x7 multi-lingual tourist helpline launched

The declaration of 600 year-old Ahmedabad as a World Heritage City by the UNESCO was hailed by Prime Minister Narendra Modi, BJP chief Amit Shah and Gujarat Chief Minister Vijay Rupani.

After Ahmedabad became the first city of India to get the World Heritage City tag last night, the UNESCO tweeted “Just inscribed as UNESCO World Heritage Site: Historic city of Ahmedabad #India”. The decision was taken at UNESCO’s World Heritage Committee Meeting at Krakow in Poland. The 600 year-old city has now joined the ranks of Paris, Vienna, Cairo, Brussels, Rome and Edinburgh, and put India on the world heritage city map.

Ahmedabad first Indian city to get UNESCO heritage tag

Strengthening its connectivity in South India with three new destinations, SriLankan Airlines is looking at the possibility of adding more cities in India, given the potential for growth in the market. Hyderabad is one of three South Indian cities that the airline is commencing operations to from this week, along with the port city of Visakhapatnam on July 8 and Coimbatore on July 16.

With these three additions, SriLankan Airlines will operate 126 flights per week to 14 cities in India, with existing services to Chennai, Tiruchi, Thiruvananthapuram, Mumbai, New Delhi, Gaya, Madurai, Varanasi, Kochi, Bengaluru and Kolkata.


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RNI No. DELENG/2015/65820

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