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Textiles in the 16th Century

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Christian L. Ferzola Professor Chang Social Foundations-III Sec: 4:55-6:10 10/28/2013 Snapshot in time: Globalization in the Early Modern Era By the 16 th century, people throughout the world had built complex societies with unique cultural traditions. Robust agricultural communities dominated most of the Mediterranean, Asia, and Europe, most of sub-Saharan Africa, as well as Central and South America. By this time, people had created an elaborate system of transportation channels that bolstered travel, thus promoting transcultural communication and trade. This worldwide intermingling of traditions is an essential agent in positive historical development. Likewise, multicultural interaction has been a vital aspect of human development since the dawn of our species existence. Yet, it is thanks to advancements in naval and navigational technology in the early modern era, where we truly begin to see cross-cultural contact take place on a global scale.
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Christian L. Ferzola Professor Chang Social Foundations-IIISec: 4:55-6:10 10/28/2013

Snapshot in time: Globalization in the Early Modern Era

By the 16th century, people throughout the world had built

complex societies with unique cultural traditions. Robust

agricultural communities dominated most of the Mediterranean,

Asia, and Europe, most of sub-Saharan Africa, as well as Central

and South America. By this time, people had created an elaborate

system of transportation channels that bolstered travel, thus

promoting transcultural communication and trade. This worldwide

intermingling of traditions is an essential agent in positive

historical development. Likewise, multicultural interaction has

been a vital aspect of human development since the dawn of our

species existence. Yet, it is thanks to advancements in naval and

navigational technology in the early modern era, where we truly

begin to see cross-cultural contact take place on a global scale.

Countless goods were traded amongst these newly formed trade

paths, however perhaps one of the most interesting items

exchanged in terms of its impact on the world’s economy and

profound cultural significance, were trade textiles.

Investigating further into the textile market during this era

lets one see the important role it played in these theaters.

European sailors in the 1500’s began to shape trade routes

connecting various, distant lands through passage of the

Atlantic, Indian, Mediterranean, and Pacific waters. These

pathways of trade allowed and nurtured direct contact between

civilizations of the eastern and western hemispheres for the

first time. In particular, the Portuguese were some of the first

to fund such transoceanic exploration, subsequently reaping the

benefits off of their often-chancy voyages. A. R. Disney,

Portuguese historian and author, defines Portugal’s role in the

navigation and unearthing of Africa’s Atlantic Coast. He states:

“The Portuguese were in the forefront of this momentousprocess. They were the principal European pioneers of African coastal sailing, and it was they who first rounded the southern tip of Africa, finally passing from the Atlantic into the Indian Ocean. Their voyages along these coasts were therefore the prelude to one of the most significant breakthroughs in world history – the linking of

the Atlantic maritime communications system to that of the Indian Ocean.” (p. 27)

It is clear then, that Portugal was at the forefront of

naval progress during this time period. Historical figure Prince

Henry of Portgual, more commonly known as Prince Henry the

Navigator, dominated the Moroccan Port of Ceuta in the late 15th

century and further sponsored a succession of voyages south,

along the West African coast. By infiltrating port cities along

these journeys, Portugal would not only diversify its economic

opportunities, but influence culture and traditions of the

peoples they came across. Setting a precedent for future

Portuguese pioneers such as Bartolommeo Dias and Vasco Da Gama,

Prince Henry’s expeditions propelled Portugal’s diplomatic and

economic strength for future generations. Securing trade routes

along the Atlantic-African Coast, around the Cape of Good Hope,

and further into the Indian Ocean basin, Portugal’s extensive

maritime endeavors lead to the development of port cities such as

Såo Jorge da Mina, Cape Town, and Goa. In Pieter Emmer’s debate

on early modern globalization entitled, “The Myth of

Globalization: The Atlantic Economy, 1500-1800”, he admits that

Portugal was only one of two European nations where international

trade accounted for more than 10% of it’s economic prosperity.

Evidently then, Portugal’s movement towards this global exchange

in the late 15th and 16th century was innovative and profitable,

influencing other nations to adopt this method of commerce.

Emmer goes on to describe the “Second Expansion Circuit”

which essentially gave rise to a more complex and defined system

of trade not just across oceans but inside Europe as well. He

argues three major differences between the first expansion, taken

forth by the Portuguese and Spanish, and the second, subjugated

by the Dutch, French, and English. He argues:

“The development of the second expansion circuit differed radically from its predecessor. First, it came intoexistence much later, thus allowing the merchants and shipping rms to pro t from the experience of the Spanish fi fiand the Portuguese. Furthermore, it should be stressed that the second system was based on, and integrated with, the trade in Europe. The Spanish and Portuguese colonial merchants, on the other hand, had not been able to build up experience in trading and shipping within Europe before expanding their activities to other continents. As a consequence, most of the products brought to Europe from theIberian colonies had to be distributed by non-Iberian merchants, whereas the second system was able to handle boththe intercontinental as well as intra-European trades. Third, the second expansion system was able to lower freightrates considerably by using innovative ship-building techniques.” (p.108)

Fundamentally, this secondary expansion in trade networks

maintained old routes sought out by the apparently more

adventurous Spanish and Portuguese, but abetted the methods in

which exchanges took place. Advances in technology promoted

faster and more efficient modes of transporting goods, cutting

costs and stimulating economic growth. Furthermore, nations like

England and the Netherlands had an opportunity to reinforce and

stabilize their merchants inside Europe as well as

internationally, legitimizing future transactions. This permitted

further trading activity, hence giving rise to large-scale

amalgamated business in the form of joint-stock companies.

In 1602, the Dutch founded the rst large-scale joint stockfi

company with permanently available operating capital for trade

and shipping to, from, and within the Indian Ocean and China Sea.

Emmer explains further, “Since 1594, Dutch merchants had formed

companies for shipping and trade with Asia, and these smaller

companies were united thanks to mediation by the government of

Holland into one ‘United East India Company’.” (p.110). Although

the Dutch republic backed these companies, they remained

independent entities and were effectively free from direct

government intervention, allowing them to pursue “a policy aimed

at long-term goals”, more specifically to surpass the Portuguese

in the european-asian trade market. The company traded mainly

teas, spices and textiles with port cities in the Indian Ocean,

in extremely large quantities throughout an incredibly impressive

trade network. The figure depicted below by Hofstra University,

gives one a better understanding of just how sizeable the trade

routes were.

Statistically speaking, the Dutch East India Company

utilized over 4’700 ships, with almost a million European

employed workers, pushing over 2.5 million tons of goods across

the ocean. The profits organizations like the ‘VOC’, as it’s

often abbreviated, generated from the textile trade with India in

particular, were immense. Showing upwards of a 75% increase in

revenue during the late 17th century. The largest individual

benefactors from such high profit margins were normally top

executives, a possible foreshadowing of such wealth dividends in

today’s society? Perhaps. However, in order to adapt with ever-

changing trends in supply and demand, the company’s large revenue

was often redistributed to finance further expansion in the form

of ships, port offices, and human labor. Further promoting free

trade, and with it, transcultural interaction.

Furthermore, being that the Dutch East India Company was so

immeasurable large, it obviously had political, and military

impressions on those areas it did business with. In order to

maintain trade relations (essentially profits) with certain

islands and port cities, the Dutch would sometimes have to employ

martial action. By the same token, it would be in the company’s

best interest to have men in positions of political power

throughout these stages of commerce. One example of the ‘VOC’

using violence to preserve its trade monopoly in a region took

place in the 1620’s on an Indonesian archipelago known as the

Banda Islands. It is said that almost an entire native population

was wiped out in an effort to make room for Dutch plantations. It

is plainly seen then that these organizations were willing to go

to extreme measures to secure returns. This demonstrates the

aggressive diplomacy often employed by such corporations. Having

said that, there is far more than just monetary and political

value present in the goods that companies like the ‘VOC’ traded.

Beginning in the 16th century, the pinnacle of European

foreign navigation brought about the budding of an ample textile

trade. European voyages to the Spice Islands of Southeast Asia

resulted in the discovery of valuable, exotic textiles. As these

sailors came to the realization that textiles were a welcomed

currency for other goods, the canon of the textile trade grew

exponentially. Textiles merged the traditional patterns, fabrics,

and talents of the cultures that fashioned them, as well as some

of the visual preferences of their clientele. Intrinsically,

textiles offer an opportunity to explore broad networks of

cultural and physical exchange and the acute conditions in which

the objects were finished and expended.

Trade textiles, which were literally created by one culture

to be sold to another, often reveal a collection of designs.

Craftsmen in the East and the West constantly invented fresh and

exotic decorations, thus stimulating free trade and competition.

They functioned as the principal objects that provoked pervasive

notions of what was attractive in clothing and home ornamentation

across cultures. Textiles served as a symbol of prestige for

their owners, announcing the wearer's superiority and wisdom of

the greater world. Readily available, these fabrics impacted the

material culture of the locations where they were marketed and

produced, resulting in a shared language of imagery and design,

familiar around the globe.

When looking at early modern textiles, it is easy to look

past the intricate and often unique process through which they

were created. Depending on geographic location, these cloths

could be created using those various materials available such as

flax, cotton, yucca, and silk. The fiber is weaved and or knitted

to create a piece of fabric, then dyed in numerous mediums and

embroidered with different color yarns. The amount of labor put

into making these products in the pre-industrial age places

emphasis on their inherent worth. Textiles could portray images

of battle scenes, writing, floral patterns each piece different

than the next. They even began to become more and more prevalent

in religious locations. The Metropolitan Museum of Art

demonstrates, “Textiles performed many functions in the Christian

Church, from altar hangings to copes and chasubles. Expensive

trade textiles from Iran, Turkey, India, and China found their

way into European churches as gifts from wealthy patrons,

reflecting the donor's high social status.”(metmuseum.org). This

shows that textiles had the ability to influence people in even

the most conservative setting. A piece created in India depicting

Bengal tigers chasing deer could be bought by a British sailor in

Calcutta, and sold to an Italian family as a household

decoration. This broadens not only that family’s knowledge of

distant culture, but also everyone whose hands it passed through.

This promotion of cultural collaboration was and never will be

present when trading gold bullion. That is why the textile

industry during this time was so crucial to human development,

because it was a way for people to experience and acknowledge

foreign values, traditions, and beliefs.

Innumerable goods were traded during the early modern

globalization. Spices, teas, precious metals, even human labor in

the form of slavery and indentured servitude, were traded in an

attempt to absorb all the possible wealth this newly

interconnected globe was sitting on. Tea, and silver from Japan

would be traded for spices in Southeast Asia, which would be

taken to Africa and traded for slave labor. These people then

would be shipped across the Atlantic and used to farm cash crops

in the Americas, which would then be sold back to the Europeans

for gold and weaponry. Trade during this time period was cyclic

in a sense that everyone had something to gain from another

portion of the globe and in order to get it, you needed to

bargain. Nonetheless, it wasn’t necessarily true that everyone

got what he or she bargained for. Yet, it was necessary to trade

otherwise you would become economically and socially

insignificant.

A good representation of this global trade during the early

modern era can be shown through the Columbian Exchange. Chapter

19 in McGraw-Hills text “The Origins of Global Interdependence,

1500-1800” defines such exchange, “the global diffusion of

plants, food crops, animals, human populations, and disease

pathogens that took place after the voyages of exploration by

Christopher Columbus and other European mariners” (p.382). Not

all outcomes of trade were positive, as stated above, biological

pathogens such as smallpox would ravage local populations that

were previously unexposed to such disease. “…and within a century

the indigenous population of Mexico had declined by as much as 90

percent, from about 17 million to 1.3 million”(p. 382). Epidemics

similar to this allowed outside populations to easily modify the

political, social, and cultural traditions of the native people.

However, over the long-term the exchange increased general human

population in the region thanks to the global spread of

agriculture and animals that it established. It is often

difficult to believe that some present-day stereotypes are

debunked by reexamining these trade routes. For example, Native

Americans had never seen a horse until the Europeans arrived on

their shores, yet we constantly see Native Americans riding

stallions across Great Plains as if they always surrounded them.

It also serves as a reminder that we have always been a globally

connected world, and within it, lies a bastion cultures and

traditions.

When looking to compare today’s international

relationships in commerce, and diplomacy in comparison to those

of the early modern era the differences arise immediately. Back

in the age of Christopher Columbus, there would be no distinct

law or normative behavior when arriving on the shores of an

unchartered land. While it was positive that we were discovering

other cultures and interacting on a more global-scale, the

commonly seen aggressive diplomacy would be laughable if tried in

2014. Nowadays we have international norms, and even more

legitimate, international law. We have created transnational

councils who can enforce and uphold these laws. We have

institutions that can finance an entire country out of debt. We

can now trade commodities twenty-four hours a day between the New

York Stock Exchange and the Nikkei Index. We have treaties and

diplomatic agreements that are revered and respected. We have

broken language barriers with online translators. We have

essentially created an infinitely connected world. Nevertheless

none of the above would ever be possible without the mistakes

made by those during the eras before us. So, although the 16th-

19th century was far different than our world today, it provided

vital precedents that allow us to work together far more

efficiently and less violently than in centuries prior. In a

hundred years time, it is very possible that a student will be

describing our era as violent and aggressive, however he would

never be able to do that without the mistakes we are making now,

and the solutions we put in place to better ourselves as a global

community.

Figure 1:

Works Cited

"16 - Exploring the Coasts of Atlantic Africa  Pp. 27-44." 16. N.p.,

n.d. Web. 18 Oct. 2013. <http://ebooks.cambridge.org/chapter.jsf?

bid=CBO9780511813337&cid=CBO9780511813337A016&tabName=Chapter>.

"Chapter 19, Transoceanic Encounters and Global Connections." The Origins

of Global Interdependence 1500-1800. McGraw-Hill, n.d. Web. 18 Oct. 2013.

<http://highered.mcgraw-hill.com/sites/dl/free/0073385514/792746/Sample_

Chapter_19.pdf>.

"Degree Programs." BGC Upcoming Events. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 Oct. 2013.

<http://www.bgc.bard.edu/programs/course-listings/fall-2013/interwoven-

globe.html>.

"Early Globalization and the Slave Trade." Early Globalization And The Slave

Trade. N.p., n.d. Web. 20 Oct. 2013.

"Dutch East India Company." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, 05 Nov.

2014. Web. 18 Oct. 2013.

"PortCities Bristol." Trade Goods from the East: Textiles. N.p., n.d. Web. 19

Oct. 2013.

"Textile Manufacturing by Pre-industrial Methods." Wikipedia. Wikimedia

Foundation, 05 July 2014. Web. 19 Oct. 2013.

"Trade Textiles in Religious Contexts | The Metropolitan Museum of

Art." Trade Textiles in Religious Contexts | The Metropolitan Museum of Art. N.p., n.d.

Web. 23 Oct. 2013.


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