The Science and Marketing ofThe Science and Marketing ofCosmeticsCosmetics
Dr. Maria LabedzkaPresenting to theMarketing Group of the Royal Society of Chemistry
21 March 2011
WHAT ARE COSMETICS?WHAT ARE COSMETICS?
Not just make up but also
•soap•shower and bath gels•toothpaste•shampoo•body lotion•anti-ageing creams•deodorants•shaving creams … the list isendless
True for Europe but productssuch as antiperspirants ortoothpaste might be regarded asdrugs e.g. in the USA
Roles Behind Launching CosmeticRoles Behind Launching CosmeticProductsProducts
Cosmetic ScienceFunctions
ProductDevelopment
Research
Processing
ManufacturingMarketing
Finance Logistics
CosmeticRegulations
PerfumeHouses
PackagingDevelopment
Quality
MaterialSuppliers
StrategicTrust
SafetyProfessionals
Claim Support
Efficacy Testing
Consumer Research
The Role ofThe Role of Research
•Understanding the substrate –the biologyand physiology of skin, hair, sweat glands ...
•Researching active ingredients and theircombinations to deliver new or improvedbenefits
•Understanding the mode of action of activeingredients and how to measure their benefit
Research
MOISTURISED SKIN
DESQUAMATION OCCURRING
CONTINUOUS OIL LAYERON SURFACE
FLUID,CONTINUOUS,SKIN LIPIDS
FEW INTACT DESMOSOMES
Research
DRY SKIN
WATER LOSS THROUGH FRACTURE IN LIPIDS
DESQUAMATION NOT OCCURRING CAUSING ROUGH SKIN SURFACEDISCONTINUOUS OIL LAYERON SURFACE
CRYSTALLINE,FRACTUREDSKIN LIPIDS
DESMOSOMES NOT BEING DEGRADED BY ENZYMES
Research
ROLE OF MOISTURISINGINGREDIENTS
STRATUMCORNEUM
BASALPLANE
H20
DERMIS
OILHUMECTANT
Research
Importance ofImportance of
•“The European Cosmetics Regulations arethe best in the World.”
•An army of scientists supports thedecisions of the SCCS –ScientificCommittee of Consumer Safety
•The EU Cosmetics Directive regulates theuse of specific ingredients –e.g. positive listsfor preservatives, UV filters, colorants
•Risk assessment is a legal requirement
•Ban on animal testing
CosmeticRegulations
The Role ofThe Role of•Development of the processing methodswhich give the optimum product performanceusing the available manufacturing facilities
•Engineering and science of behaviour ofmaterials
•Managing specifications of final products anddeveloping GMP - Good ManufacturingPractice
Processing
The Role ofThe Role of•Development of packaging materials which notonly are attractive for the consumer but also arecompatible with the formulations•Material science essential for creatingsustainable and cost effective containers whichcan be efficiently run in the manufacturingprocess•Often essential for product performance andsafety e.g. Aerosols
PackagingDevelopment
The Role ofThe Role of•Quality assurance of raw materials,packaging components and final cosmeticproducts•Science of analytical chemistry,microbiology and material testing•Essential in creating material specificationswith the suppliers as well as specification ofthe final goods - GMP
Quality
The Role ofThe Role of•Defining the consumer needs and assessingthe consumer perceptions of technical productaspects•Fragrance and packaging - very important•Consumer research science –includingpsychology, demographics, social, culturaland environmental aspects•Power of statistics
Consumer Research
The Role ofThe Role of•Proof of effects claimed on cosmeticproducts is required by law
•Advertising highly regulated in the UK –ASA–Advertising Standards Authority nowincluding web advertising
•Pre-clearance forTV or radioadvertising- Clearcast
Claim SupportEfficacy Testing
The Role ofThe Role ofClaim Support
Efficacy Testing
Claim Support
Efficacy TestingThe Role of
Science/ Research
Communication between allCommunication between allfunctionsfunctions ––essential for successessential for success
Cosmetic ScienceFunctions
ProductDevelopment
Research
ProcessingFormulation
ManufacturingMarketing
Finance Logistics
CosmeticRegulations
PerfumeHouses
PackagingDevelopment
Quality
MaterialSuppliers
StrategicTrust
SafetyProfessionals
Claim Support
Efficacy Testing
Consumer Research
Cosmetic ScienceCosmetic Science ––Education to HighestEducation to HighestStandardsStandards
-Chemistry-Skin biology
-Raw materials-Microbiology
Solid knowledge base acrossessential elements of CosmeticScience and related appliedfields.
Product Development, Claim Support, ProjectManagement - Self-directed study combiningpractical work, knowledge and creativity –final UG year.
Experience in the process of making andmarketing Cosmetic Products from theconcept to product delivery to theconsumer –according to latestlegislation
“Real life”experience in the cosmeticindustry –in various functions
Industry placement
BScHons
-Formulation principles-Formulation practice
-Marketing-Perfumery
-Legislation and safety-Skin & hair care +
decorative cosmetics-Packaging development
-Quality management
MSc starting from 2012
COSMETICCOSMETICSCIENCESCIENCE
•Not just make up but also looking at …•Soap, shower and bath gels, toothpaste, shampoo, body lotion, anti-ageing
creams, deodorants, shaving creams …•Application of sciences: chemistry; biology; physics; physical chemistry•Science with an end in view … Science for profit!
•Science for wellbeing and self-esteem!
•See some of our students in action:
www.fashion.arts.ac.uk/video_showcase
Videos –How to make a lipstickHow to make a foundation
COURSE STRUCTURECOURSE STRUCTURE
2009 FdA Fashion Marketing and Promotion
AcknowledgmentsAcknowledgmentsDr Emma Meredith –CTPADr Danka Tamburic –London College of Fashion,
science programme directorDr Paul Matts –principal scientist P & G also a Visiting
Professor at LCF