1. A Full Life Cycle Sue Hyunsoo Kim Industrial Design Degree
Project Rhode Island School of Design
2. New Port, RI
3. ABSTRACT Human society is in need of an integration of
material, spiritual and ecological elements. The interdependence
between these needs and the current technological systems tend to
separate from one another. Industrialized society creates systems
designed to reduce natural complexity than the diversity for
sustainability. The challenge for humanity is to develop human
design processes, which pertain us to remain in the natural
context. Every phase of the design, manufacturing, and construction
processes requires reconsideration for a global ecology. These
frequent linear systems often result ignorant or indifferent means,
which interrupt the interaction between humanity and nature. It is
necessary for us to embrace design, environmental, and
philosophical efforts to build a better future. As one of the most
leading garment industries, leather industry plays a significant
role in todays global economy. The industry exceptionally
transforms animal hides into a chemically stable material by
subjecting them to chemical and mechanical sequential processes,
meeting various needs of people. The leather industry uses
by-products of meat industry, which are hides and skins as raw
materials. The industry could have been environmentally friendly
and sustainable since it processes waste products from meat
production. However, the leather industry has become to produce
high pollution with chemical, organic wastes and high water
consumption through manufacturing processes. Leather wastes
generated from different processes are another inconsiderate and
unnecessary system we have designed for nature. How can we minimize
the waste and create a balance between manufacturing process and
sustainable design through human needs? If the leather process
remains within its traditional methods, designers are needed to
adapt the leather waste towards sustainable ends. A Full Life
Cycleis a thesis project, which investigates the waste stream in
leather industry, especially in leather product development. The
project underlines the precedents of current factory systems and
creates a response to Toyota Production System, which highlights
the history of lean manufacturing system. The research is based to
explore creative design opportunities to eliminate physical waste,
leather scraps, from the production system and create a methodology
for a sustainable design. From material exploration to design
prototypes, various iterations have been produced to create
meaningful products with use of leather waste. The factory system,
material variations, and manufacturing process all affect the waste
stream in leather production; however, we must accept to eliminate
the concept of waste to optimize the full life-cycle of leather
products and processes to approach the state of natural systems, in
which there is no waste.
4. LEATHER INDUSTRY RESEARCH A full investigation of current
leather industry: from tanneries to product development factories.
Research includes problem analysis, factory observation, and a
literature reference to Toyota Production System.
5. The current leather waste is not a linear result from the
tanning industry, but rather from an infinite cycle of obtaining
raw material, material processing, component processing, and
ultimately retail distribution. Each process generates different
types of waste, but the most unconsciously disposed waste results
from the product development. According to UNIDO,with some high
quality items, only 40% of the surface Problem of the leather is
usedin various leather product developments. The cutting rate for
leather ranges from 25 to 60%, depending on the quality, type,
size, and machine process-ability. Since the leather does not
originate from a homogeneous, rectangular form, leather
manufacturers ultimately cut around the area that
areuseable.However, the conscious cutting decisions are not fully
optimized for many leather productions; the cutting decisions
depend on workersexperience and skills. Are the decisions on
utilizing the full skin for the products optimized enough? Are the
product manufacturers aware of their cutting rates? Or do the
workers make the decisions unconsciously?
6. Vanson Leathers Brahmin Handbags American Leather Production
Investigating New Englands leather production system, two case
studies have compared and discussed: Vanson Leathers and Brahmin
Handbags. Vanson Leathers is Americas largest manufacturer of
leather motorcycle jackets and motorcycle riding apparel for men
and women. Their manufacturing headquarter is located in Fall
River, Massachusetts and known for obtaining all their materials
within the United States. Observation With an in depth history of
40 years in the industry, Vanson is known as an American leather
apparel brand for producing the top quality leather jackets for
motorcycle enthusiasts. Similarly, Brahmin Handbags pertains a
history of leading a timeless handbag design in the fashion
industry. Brahmin is based in Fairhaven, Massachusetts, maintaining
their original factory to be the only factory in the United States.
The brand strives to expand their business globally through Chinese
manufacturers.
7. There are several architectural typologies associated with
the retrofitting of the lean manufacturing system within the
confines of a leather production warehouse. It is interesting to
note that most alterations that are inherently visible are more
technology based. Larger computerized screens overlook the
workforce, as in the case of Brahmin are absent at Vanson leathers.
However due to the nature of the building typology housing, both
production lines share supply levels at their clerestories. The
conveyor belt is perhaps the most dramatic elimination from
Brahmins setup. At Vansons Fall River factory, the company has a
rolling bed spanning the length of the Vason & Brahmin
production floor. In comparison to Vansons lengthy conveyor belt,
Brahmin floors are rendered in polished concrete to grant smooth
trafficking of trolleys carrying materials. In this case, the
conveyor belt strategy is not ideal for Brahmin or any lean
manufacturing organization simply because of the rigidity of the
system and its independence from the distribution manager. Instead,
Brahmins circulation is demarcated using painted strips similar to
a street or runway, restricting employees work movement within the
cells. For aesthetic purposes, this allows for a cleaner and more
open environment where dirt can be addressed and scraps can easily
be thrown into a bin. However, at Vanson Leathers, the wood paneled
floors do not aid in the cells. For aesthetic purposes, this allows
for a cleaner and more open environment where dirt can be addressed
and scraps can easily be thrown into a bin. However, at Vanson
Leathers, the wood paneled floors do not aid in the distribution of
trolleys, and the open space between the working stations allows
more freedom to their workers. It is interesting to note how the
structural system of the factory is greatly influential in the
streamlining of the process and the attitude of the environment for
working in. One could argue however that polished concrete exudes a
sense of incubation to deliver asweat-shop aesthetic. A far more
personalized Vanson works in conjunct with their relationships and
thrives to produce unique work tailored to customers of a certain
social bracket. While extreme inefficiencies in waste production
and environmental care are left unattended, there is a warm brought
to the factory as curetted simply by human connection.
9. For past decades, the Toyota Production System has been
known as lean manufacturing system, which optimize quality by
constantly improving processes and eliminating unnecessary waste in
natural, human and corporate resources. The system influences every
aspect of Toyotas organization and includes a common set of values,
knowledge and procedures. It entrusts employees with well-defined
responsibilities in each production step and encourages every team
member to strive for overall improvement. Toyota Production System
fulfills the customer demand Toyota Production System efficiently
by linking all production activity to real marketplace demand.
Inspired by American supermarkets,Just-in- Timeproduction relies on
finely tuned processes in the assembly sequence using only the
quantities of items required, only when they are needed. This
production method eliminates any form of muda, or waste, such as
overproduction, over-time, unnecessary movement and most
importantly, excess inventory. Just- in-Time method creates a
smooth workflow by adapting Kanban Card to the system. The Kanban
card is used to call-up components, as they are required. Before
stocks need replenishing, a Kanban card from the operator ensures a
just-in- time delivery. The process is based on apullprinciple with
items called only as they are required, as opposed to apush
principle that may not take account of actual need. Such efficient
production system allows both company and the employees to
collaborate to constantly improve lean manufacturing process.
10. The story of leather Waste: Skin Waste: extraneous flesh,
pickling chemicals Waste: shavings, trimmings, toxic chemicals. Raw
Material Material Processing Tanning Process: Material preparation
to convert the protein of the raw hide into a stable material.
11. Lean Manufacturing System: How does each factory pursue
lean system? Componant Processing Distribution- Retail Leather
Jacket Luxury Handbag
12. Initial Experiment Process In collaboration with Vanson
Leathers, I was able to collect a large quantity of leather scraps
to experiment and test design iterations. My initial experiments
extend to various surface manipulations from paint coatings to hand
sewing and sanding.
13. As a traditional way of using leather scraps, patch-working
can utilize as much scrap surface as possible. Instead of
traditional squared patch- work, the whole surfaces were puzzled
and weaved together. Although the utilization of whole surfaces
seems ideal for waste elimination, it is questionable whether the
technique is applicable for the standard manufacturing process.
Patching
14. Another way of patching is to sew every seam of overlapping
layers. The sewing requires techniques to sew with industrial
sewing machine and develop keen calculations on placements. Design
aesthetics can easily become overwhelming with multiplication of
layers; few layers need to be skived in order to maintain a flat
surface. Although sewing embraces the most basic technique of
fabric connection, design aesthetics become ambiguous and the
material finishing, such as skiving, may take substantial amount of
time. Sewing
15. Employing the industrial technique, multiple surfaces were
glued and laminated together to sand down into a flat surface. This
unconventional technique certainly creates a unique surface
treatment. However, it is questionable whether the surface is
strong enough to hold multiple layers together over time. The
process of creating the flat surface also requires a long duration
of time to glue and sand. Sanding
16. Approaching towards an artistic way, scrap surfaces were
treated with leather paints to create unique surface design.
Although the surface treatment is unique, it is questionable
whether the technique is applicable in the manufacturing production
system. Painting
17. Reaching out to fellow classmates at RISD, I have conducted
workshops inviting artists and designers to participate in creating
unique leather products. The idea is to employsatellite designers
who are not abinded to factory system, but rather act as
independent designers to create products beyond the factory gate.
Workshops
18. The initial experiments display distinctive features of
material explorations. However, the feasibility of these material
techniques is questionable to the current leather manufacturing
system. The following key summaries ultimately narrow down the
techniques to become more applicable to the current leather
production system. - Accessibility to machines and tools. - Time
and cost efficiency - Ease to assemble - Standardized process and
end products Problems
19. Final Design Process Inspired by modular patterns, the
final design iterations include generating digital modular patterns
to assembling three-dimensional forms.
20. Driven by the initial experiments, various modular patterns
have been created to examine the potential possibilities to create
a complex surface design with a repetition of a simple pattern.
Many modular patterns have been tested. Pattern Exploration
21. In order to speed up the process of cutting, both laser and
die cutting methods are introduced to customize the patterns while
utilizing industrial manufacturing techniques. Patterns are
digitally made in vector drawings. Digital Laser and Die Cut
22. Each pattern is design to be connected to one another. A
single pattern infinitely repeats itself either through a looping
system or an overlapping system. The customized patterns are
uniquely designed, so that the patterns fit according to scrap
size, material type, and technical needs. These modular patterns
are not just to create beautiful surface designs; they are meant to
utilize leather solid waste as much as possible through existing
factory machines, such as water jet cutter and die cutters. Pattern
Connection
23. The modular patterns provide infinite creative
opportunities for people to design various products, such as
leather lampshades, rugs and vases to fashionable scarves, hats,
and bags. The patterns are the atoms and molecules, which transform
from simple two-dimensional designs to three-dimensional objects
through different combinations. The users can assemble a collection
of patterns and self-initiate the design possibilities to create
unique products. The overall design concept is to create objects
with patterns, which represent lifestyle of both home and fashion
products. The modular patterns are versatile enough to be
interpreted along with users needs. The lifestyle of home and
fashion interplays to become a bigger realm of culture. The
patterns not only eliminate the existing leather waste, but also
nourish the creativity to be applicable for lifestyle products.
Design Approach
24. With completed patterns and prototypes, the project will be
extended to seek for a retail opportunity, starting with online
stores. Collaborating with a minimal viable merchandise store, such
as Etsy, a collection of patterns and pre-made products will be
sold individually online. The purpose of retail expansion is to
effectively communicate with customers. The solid waste generated
from the product development could have been influenced by
communication between the factory and the buyer, and the buyer to
customers. If the factories and the customers communicate directly
to each other, product development will be more focused towards
customersneeds and value. This will ultimately eliminate waste for
the future and the system will follow the model of
ToyotasKanbanpull method. Future Direction