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Currents Waves New Light
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1. : -
2. : . : .
3.
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...
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( Streams) - .
( Drift Currents) .
6. : , () . , . Coriolis : ( ). ~15 . ~45
7.
( !!!):
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Ekman!
8. : , . . , .
Coriolis : ( ).
, () .
9.
10.
11. Gulf Stream 240 Km 1,6 Km
12. ( G lobal C onveyor B elt)
, , .
, , , .
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. , .
13. El - Nino
14. El - Nino
15. !!!
16. : ( Waves) . : ... !
17.
:
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:
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, , ...
18. : .
(< 1 sec).
(1 - 20 sec).
(20 sec 12 h) ( Tsunami).
( > 12 h) ( ) .
:
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.
19. crest trough ( wavelength) ( height) (amplitude) = H /2 (period) (frequency) (celerity) = L / T
20.
L/2 1/23
L/2
L/2 , :
21. & : : > L/2. : ~ L/2. : < L/2.
22. ()
L/2 .
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(, Swell ).
23. ()
L/2 .
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24.
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( Fetch).
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25.
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( L~1-3 cm, C~cm/sec) .
(L~ cm - < m/2, = 5-10 Knots) .
( ) ( ~m/2 2m, T ~ sec, ~ Knots, H L ) .
( , L H, C) .
26. , : L/2 , , D
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