Study of Cutting Machine
FABRIC CUTTINGTo make a complete garments, cutting is necessary. It means to cut out the
garment pieces from lays of the fabric with the help of cutting templates. In garments industries fabric is cut from lay and spreading with accuracy and properly which is termed as fabric cutting.
• Object:To separate fabric parts from the spread of the lay according to the dimension
of the marker
• Requirements Of Cutting: Precession of cut
Clean edge
Infused edge
Consistency in cutting
Support of the lay
TYPES OF CUTTING METHOD Fully Manual Hand operated scissor
Manually Operated Power Knife Straight knife
Band knife
Round knife
Die cutting
Notcher
Drill
Computerized Methods Of Fabric Cutting Computer controlled knife cutting
Cutting by Laser beam
Cutting by Water jet
Cutting by Plasma torch
HAND OPERATED SCISSOR• Features: First & oldest method of fabric cutting
Used for cutting one or two plies of fabric
Available to cut the fabric from left to right or right to left
Can be cut by scissor
Needs more time & contain high cost
Used in tailoring & household purpose to cut fabric
STRAIGHT KNIFE• Features:The elements of straight knife consists of:
1. An electric motor
2. Stand
3. A base plate usually on rollers
4. Handle
5. Knife
6. Knife Guard
7. Wheel
Knife is driven by electric power
Grinding wheel is present to sharp the knife during cutting
Blade edge: straight edge, wave edge, saw edge, serrated edge
Straight edge is mostly used
Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5 cm
Can cut heavy fabric such as canvas & denim
STRAIGHT KNIFE• Working Principal: Two kind of powers are required to operate a Straight Knife
Motor power drive the reciprocating knife
Operator power drives the knife through the lay
The motor power needed is determined by
Height of the lay
Construction of the fabric
Curvature of the line being cut
Stroke of the blade
Greater power of the motor, greater blade movement to cut the fabric
STRAIGHT KNIFE• Advantage:Comparatively cheap & transferred easily from one place to
another placeHigher lay of fabric can be cut easilyRound corner can be cut more precisely then even round knifeProduction speed is very good & fabric can be cut from any angle
• Disadvantage:Some time deflection may occur due to the weight of the motorKnife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too highSometime accident may happen
DIFFERENT TYPES OF KNIFERound Knife:
Straight Knife:
Wave knife
Straight knife Notch knife
BAND KNIFE• Features:Band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by
electric motor
Cutting knife is endless in shape & flexible
Blade is usually narrower then on a straight knife
This method m/c is stationary but fabric is moveable
This is like saw mill cutter
BAND KNIFEAdvantage:Used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is required
Extensively used to cut very sharp corners small parts such as collars & cuff
Used more in men’s wear than ladies wear
Intensively risk of accident is low
Possible to cut 90˚ angle of the fabric
Disadvantage:
Work load is high as m/c is stationary & fabric is moveable
Not suitable for cutting large amount of garments parts
Not possible to cut fabric directly
Fabric wastage is high
Power loss is high
ROUND KNIFE• Features:
Element of round knife:
Base plate & Electric motor
Handle for the cutter to direct the blade
Rotating circular blade
Blade diameter varies from 6-20 cm
Blade is circular
Blade is driven by electric power
Circular knife is driven by 1000-3500 cm
•
ROUND KNIFEAdvantage: Suitable for single ply cutting as well as multi-layers (say 20-30 layers)
Suitable for small scale cutting
Suitable gentle curve cutting
Easy to operate
Useful for cutting layer parts of a garments
Disadvantage:
Not suitable for cutting very curve lines in higher no. of lays
Not suitable for higher production
Possibility of accident is high
Difficult to cut small component
Needs skilled operator
DIE CUTTING
• Features:
Mainly two types of die cuttings are available namely: Presses & Clickers
Main parts of all die cutting m/c are Blade, Ram Head, Die, Motor & Operating System of Ram
Die is made by metallic strip
Most useful to cut sharp & small parts
DIE CUTTINGWorking Principal: Die is prepared with metal strip according to the shape of pattern
Die press generally has a cutting die just penetrates the cutting pad in order that the fibers of the lowest ply are completely separated
For die cutting, the spreader spreads a lay to the required placement of dies
The spread is cut into sections to allow transport to the cutting pad
The gap between two dies 2-3 mm are placed when die is taken to cut fabric lay
DIE CUTTING• Advantage:Extensively used to cut sharp corners of small parts of dress accurately
Most useful to cut at any shape or any angle
Comparatively less time required
Best method of cutting knitted fabric
• Disadvantage:Fabric loss is high due to the need of block of fabric lay
High labor cost
To change the style quickly is impossible
Difficult to cut large components of dress
NOTCHER CUTTING M/CFeatures:Special type of cutting m/c & used in special caseUsed to cut notch in the edge of some componentsThe invention of notcher m/c was done to make notchThe notch can be made in U-shape or V-shape
NOTCHER CUTTING M/CAdvantage:Special type of cutting m/c & used in special caseUseful to cut small notch to the fabricMost useful to make consistency in notching
Disadvantage:Only used to make notchThermoplastic fiber can not cut by this m/cTime lossUse of the m/c is limited
DRILL CUTTING M/CFeatures:Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for pocket & dart settingThis m/c contains a motor, base plate, drill, & spirit levelFor tightly woven fabric, making of hole by drill is permanent for longIn hypodermic drill some color is sprayed along with the hole so that it can easy to find the marked place
DRILL CUTTING M/CAdvantage:Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for setting pocket & dartMake the hole permanently for long time
Disadvantage:Only used for making hole in the fabric especially for setting pocket & dartFor loose woven fabric it can not make the hole permanently for long time
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