• Kushagra Jain(13)• Manisha Sonal(14)• Jawed Akhtar(15)• Moumita Maity(16)
PRESSING & FINISHING
In garments industry, finishing is a process which consists of pressing or ironing, folding and packing of a garment.
Objects of Finishing:The objects of finishing are –i. Proper ironing and packing of garment.ii. Quality control of finished garment by final inspection.
FINISHING
Thread Trimming. Lose Thread Removal. Spotting/Stain Removal. Ironing/Pressing. Tagging. Folding. Packaging.
FINISHING PROCESS
Thread sucking machine absorbs all the loosely attached threads stuck on the garment after stitching
Pneumatic operation ensures that the process of thread sucking is effi cient.
A vario-oscillation with suction ensures almost simultaneous removal of threads and other waste particles
This even helps in removing the odor of chemically washed garments
The economy of the machine is realized when precious man hours and resources as well as valuable fl oor space are saved.
THREAD SUCKING MACHINE
When the sensor detects a broken needle pin or needle chip, a buzzer will automatically sound and the conveyor belt will stop
The machine is available in two modes of operation viz. Production & Test Card
Indicator lamps identify the exact location of a foreign object
The control panel is equipped with a safety lock
A protective cover for the control panel is available so as not to hit the sensitivity level or change the mode of operation by accident.
NEEDLE DETECTOR
This clearly arranged workplace is equipped with a large aluminum hood with strong permanent suction.
Integrated workplace lighting, a convenient spotting agent deposit and the liquid/air pistol are all standard equipment.
The perforated stainless steel work surface can be removed for cleaning the spill tray.
STAIN REMOVING
Pressing is defined as a process which changes the geometric fiber structure of the area being pressed by the controlled application of heat, steam and pressure.
Pressing makes a large contribution to the finished appearance of the garments and thus their attractiveness at the point of sale.
PRESSING
To smooth away unwanted creases and crush marks.To make creases where the design of the garment
requires.(eg. creases in trousers and skirts)To mould the garment to contour of the body. eg.
moulding takes place are around the ends of darts, collars, shoulders, armholes and sleeve heads and sometimes trouser legs.
To prepare for further sewing.To refinish fabric after manufacturing the garment
PURPOSES OF PRESSING:
Steam: Steam and heat - the combined eff ect of steam and heat is to slightly soften the fi ber structure so that it can take on an alternative shape.
Pressure: When the cloth has been relaxed by steam, pressure is applied which sets the fi bers into their new position. Eg. crease in a pair of trousers.
Drying/vacuum : After the application of steam and pressure, the component or garment must be dried and cooled so that the cloth can revert to its normal moisture content and stable condition. This is achieved by a vacuum action which removes the surplus water in the fabric and cools it at the same time.
Time: The length of time the article is subjected to steam, pressure and drying depends on the fabric and the part being pressed; there is an optimum time for each component.
BASIC COMPONENT OF PRESSING:
Pre-Design Garment Pressing EquipmentPre-design garment pressing equipment prepares un-
pressed fabric through ironing, to define stitching lines in a garment before it is cut or designed.
These machines are manually operated by pressing down on the fabric with a push bar that lowers the presser onto the fabric.
Collar and Lapel Garment Pressing equipmentGarment collar and lapel pressing equipment is
ergonomically designed to press shirt collars, blouses, coats and jackets.
The pressing board is curved so the collar or lapel of a garment fi ts snugly on the layout board of the garment pressing equipment.
CLASSIFICATION OF GARMENT PRESSING EQUIPMENT
Jacket Garment Pressing Equipment Jacket garment pressing equipment is engineered to the shape of the
jacket, and is manually operated by a pressing bar. I t is designed to press the inside and outside of the jacket, which
includes the base fabric or l ining inside of the jacket.Sleeve and Arm Garment Pressing Equipment Sleeve and arm garment pressing equipment is used to iron the
sleeves of jackets and coats after the garment is manufactured or designed.
Sleeve and arm pressers are engineered vertically or as fl at-surface machines with the pressing boards shaped in the form of an arm.
Miniature Garment Pressing Equipment Miniature garment pressing equipment is used to iron smaller fabrics
after the manufacturing or design phase. These fi nishing garment pressing machines consist of hand-ironing
devices attached to the pressing board for manual ironing. The ironing boards are fl at surfaces shaped in a square or rectangle
for easy ironing.
Pressing process involved can be divided into two groups-
1. Under pressing:The pressing operations performed on garments while
they are being made up.
2. Top pressing:Finishing operations which a garment undergoes after
being completely assembled.
PRESSING PROCESS:
Irons, Steam Presses, Steam-Air Dummies, Assembling And Shaping Equipment,Steam tunnel
IRONING & PRESSING EQUIPMENT
a. Traditional Iron:Heated by a gas fl ame inside
the metal casting. Temperature is estimated only
by the rate of evaporation.
b. Electric Iron: Heated by an electric element. Controlled by thermostat.
This Dry iron is made in a variety of shapes and is mainly used for smoothing or fi nishing operations where steam is unnecessary.
DRY IRONS
c. Steam Iron: These are the most
commonly used type of hand iron and carry out a wide variety of operations, especially those concerned with under pressing.
Steam is applied from either the main supply or a small boiler unit.
Steam function is activated by the touch of a button.
IRONING TABLE
Ironing Table Consists Of Following
Layers:-
1. Rough wire mesh : Besides the
steam spreading it also improves the
vacuum suction.
2. Lower padding (about 4 – 6 mm
thick): this padding should be heat
resistant and durable as we will have
to remove all above layers when it
has to be replaced. A hard VOMAPOR
silicone/foam or REHAU foamed
sil icone is advisable. The lower
padding protects the above paddings
and the clothing from too much heat.
CONT…
3. Lower layer: Here, one should use a Polyester wire screen mesh or a felt which distributes the steam and prevents from fl uff in the vacuum suction.
4. Intermediate padding (about 5 – 10 mm thick) :This padding is responsible for the softness of the covering and thus directly infl uences the ironing result. A hard padding usually is more durable and speeds up ironing as the pressure of the iron is not absorbed
5. Upper layer : This layer can be a Polyester wire screen mesh or a felt with inlet or a molton. A fi ne wire screen mesh at this part of the covering fi lters fl uff which otherwise could penetrate the below layers and reduce the vacuum suction. A felt should not be used without inlet at this position because the horizontal movement of the iron will cause bulges.
6. Final top cover : The fi nal top cover should not be more heat resistant than the lower layers because then one would not recognize that the layers below are exhausted until the ironing result suff ers.
VARIOUS TYPES OF IRONING TABLES/STATIONS
Jacket Seam Ironing Station
Designed for opening seams
along the backs, sides and
shoulders of any type of jacket.
With its special tr iple buck
complemented by the shoulder
seam attachment fi ve seams are
ironed at one time with less
folding eff ort.
The timer automatically repeats
the required ironing program and
guarantees a constant high-
quality ironing result with short
ironing times.
TROUSER SEAM IRONING STATION
The special ironing buck,
which is mounted on the
standard base module,
guarantees easy opening
of the crotch and the side
seams and optimum hip
ironing.
The hip area can be ironed
without problems due to
the special shape of the
buck.
SLEEVE SEAM IRONING STATION
The sleeve seam buck guarantees an easy and perfect opening of
sleeve seams of jackets, men’s blazers and coats.
The sleeve seam buck includes an iron rest as a standard feature.
DRESS BOARD IRONING TABLES
These are available, as required, pointing left or right.
They can be equipped with various shapes and sizes of ironing
surfaces and are ideal for the ironing of skirts, dresses, jackets,
blouses.
A swivel arm assembly designed for a large variety of ironing
bucks as well as a support gantry and a lighting system make it
perfect for ladies garments.
TROUSER LEG IRONING STATION
This table is particularly suitable for removing imperfections in
seam and/ or waistband areas.
A waistband clamp is standard and will keep trousers in place
while the blowing function is being used.
The trouser leg ironing station gives your trousers the fi nishing
touch and guarantees excellent fi nishing quality in the waistband
and lateral seam areas.
ALL PURPOSE TABLE
An all-purpose ironing station off ering a wide range of bucks.
With its custom designed ironing surface, trousers, dresses,
skirts, coats, blouses, jackets and other garments can be
processed most effi ciently.
This ironing station is a perfect solution for those who need as
much fl exibility as possible such as studios, tailors, and returns
departments, refi nishers and textile care companies.
A steam press consists of a static buck and a head of complimentary shape, which closes on to it, thus sandwiching the garments to be pressed.
A steam press system consists of – A frame carrying the
buck, round in shape. Linkages to close the
head by scissor action. Pipe system, distribution
system. A vacuum system to
provide suction. Foot for controlling head
closure.
STEAM PRESS
A typical pressing cycle – Steam from the buck is applied.Head is locked to press the garment.Further steam from the garment.Head is released.Vapor applied to cool and dry the garment.When pressing is completed, the garment is hung on
a hanger. Adequate time of application and operator skillness is required in this regard.
Application:Sportswear, Jacket, Jeans pant etc.
STEAM PRESSING CYCLE
STEAM AIR FINISHER
Also called as a “Puff er”, a Form Press, Form Finisher, or a Dolly Press.
Work on steam-air dummies is highly effi cient. A steam-air dummy consists of a metal frame on a fi rm rotating base, with padding in the shape of the finished product placed on the frame.
Special equipment employing steam and hot air under pressure is used to shape the product placed on the dummy
It consists of a frame carrying a steam distribution system, compressed air distribution system and a pressing form which is a canvas bag in the approximate shape of the garment to be pressed – that is, a body shape but with no sleeves.
These are controls for steam and air release ad timers controlling the steam and air cycles. The equipment aims to reduce the positioning and re-positioning in pressing operations by pressing the whole garment at the same time, though fi nishing is a better term in this situation since very little pressure is applied to the garment.
The operator pulls the garment on to the form above, and the form is then expanded to its full size and shape as steam is blown through it from the inside.
Application: This equipment can remove accidental creases and
refi nish the fabric, but will not form creases or mould the garment. It is extremely useful for garments such as nightdress, T-shirt, blouse etc.
STEAM AIR FINISHER
A machine to remove wrinkles from garments.
Require no pressure, only heat. Tunnel fi nishers can be grouped into
two diff erent classifi cations, "wide body" or "narrow body."
"Wide body" machines are designed for high production fi nishing of blended garments wet-to-dry, damp-to-dry and or dry-to-dry.
"Narrow body" machines are designed for shoulder-to-shoulder processing and are best suited for the dry-to-dry fi nishing of garments. However; they are capable of damp-to-dry fi nishing at slower production speeds. These units are ideal for dry cleaners, hotel laundries, institutional laundries and other on-premise laundry applications.
STEAM TUNNEL
More than one chamber. Garments are hanged on the
hangers. In the fi rst chamber,
garments are treated with steam so that unwanted creases are removed by relaxation of fabrics and gravitational forces.
In the next chamber the garments are dried with hot air.
Here garments are passed from one chamber to another by rail.
Application: Knit garments etc.
STEAM TUNNEL
video
TUNNEL PRESSING
A boiler or steam generator is a device used to create steam by applying heat energy to water
Boiler features:Electronic water level control
with optical and acoustic indication of low water level
Presser level indicatorWater softening unitManual water feeder
STEAM GENERATOR
Machine to dry and iron all flat materials. e.g. -Bed Sheets, Pillow covers, Table Cloth & Napkins directly after Hydro-extraction to produce a quality finish.
Excellent design of roller angle ensures greater area of contact to give higher output and increased productivity
This machine is fed from the front, with a front return type
Micro processor control and inverter drives are present to regulate speed up to 10 mtrs/ min.
FLAT WORK IRONER
Presses collars and cuff s for shirts and blouses.
The sleeves of a short-sleeved shirt can be pressed on the collar press.
COLLAR AND CUFF PRESS
Shaped pressing plates with electrical oil bath, heating and precision temperature control for a high quality finish.
Integrated vacuum for correct shirt positioning without clamping marks.
SHIRT BODY PRESS
Electromotive carriage drive of the hem clamping device ensures problem-free fi nishing of even sensitive stretch fabrics without any damage. This is due to the highly precise stretch control function.
The trousers are two-dimensionally tensioned in a semi-circle to further improve the fi nish quality (with the option waistband tensioning device "body").
Patented and wear-less waistband tensioning devices for a long life cycle.
PANT FINISHER
There are two types of pleating machine:Rotary machine:Rollers are fi tted with complementary
dies similar to gears.Tiny pleats like crystal pleating or
accordion pleating can be achieved.Diff erent pattern require dies to be
changed.
Blade machine:Pleats are formed by thrust action of a
blade or bladesSet by heat and pressure as they pass
through a set of mangle-type rollers
PLEATING MACHINE
After pressing is over tagging is done.Tagging is the process of attaching tags( price tags,
company tags, size tags etc.) on the garments.
TAGGING OF GARMENTS
Apparel Folding Requirements:All garments to be folded as per garment folding
methods described in attached standards with no extra folds required.
Requirements of Prepack deliveries:To ensure garments are clean and dry before packing
and must be folded as per illustrations included in the guideline.
To ensure that staff handling the garments have clean hands and that the general environment is clean and dust free.
To ensure garments are fi rmly packed into cartons as some settling will occur during transit.
FOLDING AND PACKAGING
Strength of cartonContents of the carton are packed as per instructions.Labeling/marking as per requirements.Correct size of cartons.Adequate sealing of cartons.Do not use brown paper wrapping.Do not use carton stapling.
APPAREL PACKAGING REQUIREMENTS
After folding, garments are packed in polyethylene packets. Generally, polyethylene packets are of diff erent sizes. During packing, the position of sticker and other labels should be confirmed.
After polyethylene packing, garments are kept in the sorting rack according to size and color. Then garments are placed in inner box from the sorting rack according to size and color. Packing in inner box according to work order is called ‘assortment’.
The packing that is done by the fixed no. of inner box in the carton is called ‘cartooning or packing’. The carton is sealed with the scotch tape.
Carton bears some information on it e.g. carton box no., carton box size, shipping mark, destination etc.
PACKING SEQUENCE
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http:/ /www.madehow.com/Volume-6/Clothes-Iron.html http:/ /www.oldandinteresting.com/antique-irons-smoothers-mangles.aspx Carr and Latham's Technology of Clothing Manufacture http:/ /www.ehow.com/about_5399259_types-clothes- irons.html http:/ /www.ironcompare.co.uk/ http:/ /ezineartic les.com/?Professional-Steam-Irons&id=5512992 http:/ /ezineartic les.com/?Diff erent-Ways-For- Ironing-Clothes!&
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Why-They-Are-the-Best-on-the-Market&id=4250382 http:/ /www.espares.co.uk/search/ irons/p/1101 http:/ /consumer-electronics.exportersindia.com/clothes- irons/ http:/ /www.wikihow.com/Iron
BIBLIOGRAPHY
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