Product Catalogue 2019
Givaudan
1 / 16
Product INCI Features in-vitro & ex-vivo in-vivoPreser- vatives
Use level Solubility
AGEFINITY
Glycerin (and) Water (and) Sodium Mannose Phos-phate (and) Mannose
The 3D Y reshaper, Anti-Aging
Reactivating mitochondrial energy metabolism (action on mitochondrial target and biogenesis) - No Negative impact on protein glycation - skin matrix restructuration ( Transcriptomic, Proteo-mic and morphological analysis, collagen fibers organisation) - control of protein ageing Increase of proteasome activity - reduction of oxidised proteins
Visible reduction of age spots (4 %; D28;D54), Improvement of skin collagen organisa-tion (4 %;D28;D54), Anti-wrinkle efficacy (D28;D56), Reduction of neck wrinkles (4 %;D28;D54)
Preserva-tive free
0.1 - 0.4 %
Hydrosoluble
BLURHD CQ U/A
Dipropylene Glycol (and) Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Reduces crow’s feet wrinkles, Stimu-lates the ceramide synthesis, Smoothes the skin
Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC), Stimulation of BCL2-gene ex-pression limiting apoptosis, Stimulation of Ceramide synthesis (ex-vivo)
Anti-wrinkle effect on crow’s feet (4 %, D28), Smoothing of cutaneous relief and anti-wrinkle effect (2 %, D56)
None 0.1 - 4 %
Hydrosoluble
COSTALANE Caprylic/Capric Triglyce-ride (and) Skeletonema Costatum Extract
Poly-unsaturated fatty acid rich in omega-3, Restoration of skin homeostasis
Increase of GAP junction number, Promotes epidermal differentiation by increase of connexin 43 level
None 0.1 - 0.3 %
Lipoosoluble
EASYLIANCE 2.0
Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Hydrolyzed Rhizobian Gum
Smoothing, Impro-vement of micro relief, Immediate anti-wrinkle
Immediate wrinkle reduction (3 %, 5 min)
None 2 - 3 %
Hydrosoluble
Cosmos approved potentially NaTrue Vegan suitable CHINA approved Halal
ANTI-AGING
BODY SCULPTING
COOLING / OTHERS
HAIR AND BODY CARE
HYALURONIC ACID
MOISTURIZING
SKIN COMPLEXION
SKIN PROTEC TION
2 – 4
5
6
7 – 8
9 – 11
12
12 – 13
14 – 15
INDEX / APPLICATIONS
ANTI-AGING
2
Product INCI Features in-vitro & ex-vivo in-vivoPreser- vatives
Use level Solubility
ELLAGI-C
Propanediol (and) Anogeissus Leiocarpa Bark Extract
Anti-aging, Anti-wrinkle
Stimulation of vitamin C incorporation, Anti-MMPs, Antioxidant activity
Decrease of wrinkle depth (2 %, D14)
None 1 - 2 %
Hydrosoluble
HYALUSPHERE PF *Spherulite ®
Aqua (and) Sucrose Pal-mitate (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Glyceryl Linoleate (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Pheno-xyethanol (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Citric Acid
Vectorized (Sphe-rulites technology) hyaluronic acid to recover skin's volume and reduce wrinkles in a very short term
Penetration test by Raman micro-ima-ging (ex-vivo), Visualisation of the incor-poration of Hyalusphere in emulsions
Decrease of average wrinkle number (3 %, 1h, 6h)
Phen-oxye-thanol, Potas-sium sorbate
2 - 3 %
Hydrodisper-sible
HYALUSPHERE XP *Spherulite ®
Aqua (and) Sucrose Pal-mitate (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Glyceryl Linoleate (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Citric Acid
Vectorized (Sphe-rulites technology) hyaluronic acid to recover skin's volume and reduce wrinkles in a very short term
Penetration test by Raman micro-ima-ging (ex-vivo), Visualisation of the incor-poration of Hyalusphere in emulsions
Decrease of average wrinkle number (3 %, 1h, 6h)
Benzyl alcohol, Potas-sium sorbate
2 - 3 %
Hydrodisper-sible
HYDREIS
Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed Beta-Glucan (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Citric Acid
3 in 1 active for skin rehydration, restruc-ture and repair
Stimulation of the synthesis of filaggrin, Stimulation of the synthesis of aquapo-rin, Restoration of the skin's structure and water homeostasis (ex-vivo), Restoration of the skin's structure with filaggrin (ex-vivo), Restoration of hydric homeostasis with AQP-3 (ex-vivo)
Reparative effect on barrier function (1 %, D3)
Sodium benzoate, Potas-sium sorbate
1 %
Hydrosoluble
MEGASSANE
Caprylic/Capric Trigliceride (and) Phaeodactylum Tricornutum (and) Tocopherol
Phytoplancton extract rich in ome-ga-3, Cell protection from UV, Prevention from photo-aging and age-spots
Repairing and protection of proteins from UV damage, Revitalization, Detoxification (Lit), Anti age spots (Lit), DNA repair (Lit)
None 0.1 - 0.3 %
Liposoluble
REDENS'IN *Spherulite ®
Sucrose Palmitate (and) Aqua (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Glyceryl Linoleate (and) Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract (and) Sodium Hy-aluronate (and) Tocopherol (and) Citric Acid (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Potassium Sorbate
A dermis and hypo-dermis voluminizing ingredient and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid encapsulated in Spherulites, Plum-ping, Anti-wrinkle
Skin is subject to ECM and adipose tissue age-related alterations (2 %)
Pheno-xyethanol
1.5 - 2 %
Hydrodisper-sible
REVIVYL
COSMOS certifica-tion on-going
Propanediol (and) Oro-banche Rapum Extract
Holistic skin renewal accelerator
Maintaining of the capability of skin stem cells to replicate themselves, Increase of expression of survivin after UV exposure, Inhibition of caspase 9 and caspase 3, Stimulation of epidermis metabolism (ex-vivo), Stimulation of keratinocytes differentiation and barrier function, Improvement of epidermal differentiation and barrier function (ex-vivo), Stimula-tion of the skin barrier components pro-duction (ex-vivo), Biological reactivation of natural exfoliation (ex-vivo)
Skin barrier reinforcement and hydration (Raman), (0.5 %, D14, D28), Skin epidermis restructuration (OCT), (0.5 %, D14, D28), Increase of skin surface renewal, exfoliation (Diagnoskin), (0.5 %, D7, D28), Maintenance of the stra-tum microbium (0.5 %, D14), Anti-aging effect (crwo's feet wrinkles), (0.5 %, D28)
None 0.1 - 0.5 %
Hydrosoluble
Cosmos approved Vegan suitable CHINA approved Halal
ANTI-AGING
3
Cosmos approved Vegan suitable CHINA approved Halal
Product INCI Features in-vitro & ex-vivo in-vivoPreser- vatives
Use level Solubility
SOFTALIA CQ U/A
Fusanus Spicatus Kernel oil
Sustainable Austra-lian sandalwood nut oil, Firm and supple skin, Reduction of fine wrinkles
Improvement of skin condition on face ("reduction in lines", "more moist/supple", "reduction in flakiness"), neck ("skin tightness", "reduction in wrinkles,/lines", "more moist/supple") and hands ("much tighter", "more moist/supple") (5 %; D90 Panelist's evaluation), Enhancement of sensorial benefits of cream formulation (2 %)
None 0.5 - 5 %
Liposoluble
SPHERULITE R10
Water (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Retinol (and) Polysorbate 20
Microencapsulated stabilised retinol
Enhanced skin penetration (1.5 %) evaluated with Raman spectroscopy
Anti-aging effect on crow’s feet (2 %; D28; D54), Anti-wrinkle effect on nasolabial wrinkles (2 %; D28; D54), "Encapsulated Retinol has a visible effect on wrinkles and skin is more plumped" (2 %; Panelist´s evaluation)
Pheno-xyethanol (and) Ethylhe-xylgly-cerin
0.1 - 3 %
Hydrosoluble
SPRING SEA WATER
Maris Aqua (and) Pheno-xyethanol
Spring sea Water enriched in essential trace elements taking a unique composition
Stimulation of skin lipid synthesis, Dermo epidermal junction reinforcement, Skin moisturisation compared to classic water (ex-vivo)
Pheno-xyethanol
20 - 100 %
Hydrosoluble
STIMULHYAL
Calcium Ketogluconate Anti-aging effect by increasing natural production of hyalu-ronic acid
Elastin synthesis, Hyaluronic acid synthesis, Increase of hyaluronic acid synthesis (ex-vivo), Interaction with CD 44 (in silico test), Increase in CD 44 by immunolabelling (ex-vivo)
Skin elasticity (D28, 0.5 %), Anti-skin fatigue (D28, 0.5 %)
None 0.3 - 0.5 %
Hydrosoluble
VETIVYNE
Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Extract (and) Propanediol (and) Water
Anti-Aging, Anti-Wrinkles, Moisturi-zing, Regenerating, Stimulation of sebum production, stimulation of sebum antimicrobial lipids production, Activa-tion of adipocytes volume increase, Skin hydration, Skin fatigue reduction, Perilabial wrinkles reduction, Skin repulping, Fragrance long-lastingness enhancer
Lipid Stimulation at three levels, redifini-tion of volume adipocytes differentiation and size, keratinisation lipid synthesis and transport cornified envelope prote-ins, Sebum production lipids quantity and quality
90 volunteers, 45-65 y.old, application 2x day on face, (2 %, D21, D56) Reduction of forehead and crow's feet wrinkles, nasola-bial folds and improvement of skin firmness
None 1 - 3 %
Hydrosoluble
VITASPHERES E XP
Aqua (and) Sucrose Pal-mitate (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Glyceryl Linoleate (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Citric Acid
Vitamin E encapsula-ted in Spherulites for improved penetration
Potas-sium sorbate, citric acid
5 - 15 %
Hydrosoluble
ANTI-AGING
4
Cosmos approved Vegan suitable CHINA approved Halal
Product INCI Features in-vitro & ex-vivo in-vivoPreser- vatives
Use level Solubility
ABDOLIANCE
Sucrose Palmitate (and) Polysorbate 20 (and) Glyceryl Linoleate (and) Paullinia Cupana Seed Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil (and) Lecithin (and) Aqua (and) Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Peel Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Tocopherol
Waist slimming for men
Waist size reduction (2 %, D28), Reduction of hypoder-mis thickness (3 %, D28)
Pheno-xyethanol
1 - 3 %
Hydrodisper-sible
ACTISCULPT CQ U/A
Dipropylene Glycol (and) Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract (and) Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract
Herbal firming Increase of cAMP level in adipocytes
Thigh reduction and skin surface smoothing (1 %, D28, D56)
None 1 %
Liposoluble
COMMIPHE-ROLINE
Caprylic/Capric Triglyce-ride (and) Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract
Skin tonifier, Wrinkle filler, Breast and décolleté care
G3PDH activation (effects on lipoge-nesis), cAMP inhibition (effects on lipoly-sis), Increase of triglyceride quantity in adipocytes
None Anti-aging: 0.2 - 0.6 %
Bodycare: 0.5 - 1 %
Liposoluble
PRO-DG
Aqua (and) Plankton Extract (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Citric Acid
Marine origin slim-ming to reduce the tigh-size
Inhibition of triglycerides synthesis, Stimulation of cAMP rate, Stimulation of lipolyse (in-vitro & ex-vivo) Reduction of the adipocytesdiameter (ex-vivo)
Reduction of thighs size (3 %, D28, D56)
Sodium benzoate, Potas-sium sorbate
3 %
Hydrosoluble
BODY SCULPTING
5
Cosmos approved potentially NaTrue Vegan suitable CHINA approved
Product INCI Features in-vitro & ex-vivo in-vivoPreser- vatives
Use level Solubility
DIAMOND
Diamond Powder Stimulates cutaneous microcirculation, Improves skin com-plexion, Energyzing, Granulometry: < 15μ
Improvement of skin regeneration, Stimulation of immuno reactions (Lit)
None 0.5 - 2 %
Oil disper-sible
EVERCOOL SKIN
Menthyl PCA (and) Lactamide MEA (and) Menthane Carboxamide Ethylpyridine
Patented combination of Givaudan cooling actives, Impro-ved long-lasting freshness, Odourless cooling agent
Activation of cooling sensation receptor TRMP8
Long lasting cooling effect (2 %, 30 min, 60 min, 120 min)
None 1 - 4 %
Hydrosoluble and soluble in alcohol
QUESTICE LIQUID CQ U/A
Menthyl PCA Long-lasting perception of cooling and additional moisturizing effect
Underarm cooling panel test with deodorant spray (1.7 %), Long-lasting effect of Questice® vs. Menthol with no burning sensation (1 %), Synergistic effect of Questice® Plus with increased initial ‘cooling burst’ (1.2 % Que-stice® Plus,1 % Questice®)
None 0.5 - 1.5 %
Hydrosoluble and soluble in alcohol
QUESTICE PLUS CQ U/A
Menthyl PCA (and) Men-thol (and) Dipropylene Glycol
Immediate and long-lasting perception of cooling composed of 1 % Questice® Liq + 0.2 % free Menthol
Underarm cooling panel test with deodorant spray (1.7 %), Long-lasting effect of Questice® vs. Menthol with no burning sensation (1 %), Synergistic effect of Questice® Plus with increased initial ‘cooling burst’ (1.2 % Que-stice® Plus) (1 % Questice®)
None 1 - 2 %
Hydrosoluble and soluble in alcohol
SOLIGEL
Rhizobian Gum Anti-dark circle under the eyes, Anti-redness, Rheology modifier, Improves sensory characte-ristics of cosmetic formulations
Immediate reduction of dark rings (2 %), Improvement of sensorial properties of the formula (0.25 % alone or with salt), Flash moisturizing (2 %)
None 0.1 - 2 %
Hydrosoluble
COOLING / OTHERS
6
Vegan suitable CHINA approved Halal
Product INCI Features in-vitro & ex-vivo in-vivoPreser- vatives
Use level Solubility
CERAMIDE II CQ U/A
Ceramide NG Skin moisturizer, Li-pid barrier rebuilder, Hair strengthener & conditioner
Deposition onto hair (ex-vivo), Evaluation of hair softness (ex-vivo), Hair strengthe-ning effect (ex-vivo, 1 %)
Reduction of TEWL (2 %, D26) None 0.05 - 1 %
Liposoluble
DARKENYL
Glycerin (and) Water (and) N-Acetyl-Tyrosine (and) Sodium Metabisulfite (and) Glycine (and) Larix Europaea Wood Extract (and) Zinc Chloride (and) Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Hair pigmentation recovery, Decrease-ment of grey / white hair density
Stimulation of stem cells related genes (50μM taxifolin glucoside=1 % Darkenyl™) Stimulation of hair follicle stem cells (0.04 % taxifolin glucoside=1 % Darkenyl™), Stimulation of melanogenesis (0.01 %), Activation of hair follicles defences and pigmentation (1 %) (ex-vivo), Protection of melanocytes against oxidative stress (1 %) (ex-vivo), Stimulation of melanin production in greying hair (1 %) (ex-vivo)
White hair proportion and density reduction (44 Caucasian male volun-teers, 18 years+, with white hair, 4 months, in leave-on formulation,1 %)
Sodium Metabi-sulfite
0.1 - 1 %
Hydrosoluble
GLOSSYLIANCE
Aqua (and) Lactic Acid (and) Citrus Limon Peel Extract (and) Saccharum Officinarum Extract (and) Malic Acid (and) Citric Acid
Increases hair shine, Visible effect of softness of the hair
Increased shine (ex-vivo), Increased softness (ex-vivo)
Increased shine, Increased softness (1 %, 3 %, 5 %, D14)
None 3 %
Hydrosoluble
HAIRSPHERE AG XP *Spherulite ®
Aqua (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (and) Polysor-bate 60 (and) Myristic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Palmitic Acid (and) Guar Hydroxypropyltrimo-nium Chloride (and) Triti-cum Vulgare Flour Lipids (and) Persea Gratissima Oil (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Citric Acid
Vectorized (Sphe-rulites technology) fatty acids, avocado oil and ceramids; an ideal mixture of active ingredients for hair nourishment
Benzyl alcohol, Potas-sium sorbate
0.05 - 3 %
Hydrodisper-sible
RESISTHYAL
Water (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Lactic Acid
Hair beauty enhancer Sheathing effect around hair fibre (ex-vivo), Biological hydration of hair fibre (ex-vivo), Resistance to mechanical and thermal stresses (ex-vivo), Resistance to dullness, Increased shininess (ex-vivo), Resistance to frizzing, hair straightening enhancement (ex-vivo), Resistance to pollution, Anti-adhesion properties (ex-vivo)
Global hair beauty enhance-ment in a rinse off formulation (3 %, D14, D28), "Increased perception of the hair beauty parameters" (shininess, lightness, easiness to comb, natural volume, resistance, revitalise, increased body and matter, smoothesness, soft-ness, suppleness) (1.5 %, 3 %, D28) (panelist's evaluation), Anti-frizz and resistance to humidity (3 %, single use), Beauty enhancement in a rinse-off formulation (1.5 %, 3 %, D28)
Pheno-xyethanol
1.5 - 3 %
Hydrosoluble
HAIR AND BODY CARE
7
Cosmos approved Vegan suitable CHINA approved Halal
Product INCI Features in-vitro & ex-vivo in-vivoPreser- vatives
Use level Solubility
SINODOR CQ U/A
Citronellyl Methylcro-tonate
Odour control agent, Captures and neu-tralizes unpleasant odours
Reduction of all types of body malodours, Reduction of fatty acid malo-dours of formula bases (1 %), Reduction of odor emitted by permanent waves (ex-vivo), Reduction of smoke odour on hair (ex-vivo)
None 0.2 - 1 %
Liposoluble
SOFTOLIVE
Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogena-ted Olive Oil Unsaponi-fiables
Very dry olive-based emollient, Excellent penetration and skin feel for skin, Sun and hair care
None 2 - 10 %
Liposoluble
YOGURTENE BALANCE CQ (PFR) U/A
Inulin (and) Yogurt Powder
Prebiotic efficacy, Promotes to balance skin flora by anti-bacterial effect, Skin moisturizing
Strong reduction of S. aureus and E. coli species present on the skin
None 0.5 - 5 %
Hydrosoluble
YOGURTENE IO
Yogurt Powder Skin firming proper-ties, Hair conditioner, Lather booster
Stimulation of collagen latice concen-tration
Improves quality of dry hair, combability of wet hair and defines curles (0.2 % in combing cream), Hair style holding and anti-fly-away (1 %), Perceivable improve-ment of soap foam density and creaminess (0.5 %)
None 0.5 - 5 %
Hydrosoluble
HAIR AND BODY CARE
8
Cosmos approved potentially NaTrue Vegan suitable CHINA approved
Product INCI Features in-vitro & ex-vivo in-vivoPreser- vatives
Use level Solubility
CRISTALHYAL
Sodium Hyaluronate Moisturization by film forming and water retention, Eye contour care; MW 1-1.4 MDa
Skin moisturization (Raman Spectrosco-py) (ex-vivo), Prevention and calming of inflammation, Protection against UVB
Long-lasting moisturization upto 24hrs (0.1 %, 8h, 24h)
None 0.01 - 0.3 %
Hydrosoluble
PRIMALHYAL 300
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid with mid-range MW 100-300 kDa, Stimulation of the skin natural defense system
Increase of beta-defensine release, especially DEFB2 (in-vitro, ex-vivo), Sti-mulation of DEFB4 gene expression, Inhi-bition of gram negative bacteria activity (ex-vivo), Stimulation of keratinocytes migration and fibroblasts prolieferation (support of wound healing), Migration and proliferation of the fibroblasts, Penetration in the skin (ex-vivo)
None 0.05 - 0.2 %
Hydrosoluble
PRIMALHYAL 3K
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
PrimalHyal 3K is a mix of 3 Hyaluronic Acids (HA): - Primalhyal 300 (100-300 kDa) to reinforce the skin natural defense and wound healing process, - Primalhyal 50 (20-50 kDa) to improve skin biome-chanical properties and firmness, - Primalhyal 20 (5-20 kDa) to rejuvenate the dermis from inside
Stimulation of tight junction protein synthesis, Stimulation of DEFB2 release (in-vitro and ex-vivo), Antimicrobial activity, Specific healing activity, Stimu-lation of procollagen I, Improvement of HA synthesis
Improvement of skin biome-chanical properties (0.5 %, D56, 20-50 kDa HA)
None 0.1 - 1 %
Hydrosoluble
PRIMALHYAL 50
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid with very low MW (20-50 kDa) Reduction of TEWL (patent) Collagen-boosting effect, Skin hydro-retention, Improves skin tonicity
Stimulation of tight junction protein synthesis, Stimulation of procollagen I
Moisturization (0.5 %, D28), "Skin is more moisturized, skin is more tonic, skin is firmer" (0.5 %, D28; Panelist's evaluation)
None 0.1 - 0.5 %
Hydrosoluble
PRIMALHYAL GOLD
PEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Gly-cerides (and) Water (and) Octyldodeceth-25 (and) Sodium Hyaluronate
Oilsoluble hyaluronic acid for longterm hydration, make-up care, lip products
Skin penetration (ex-vivo), Instant and long lasting hydration benefits (ex-vivo; total water content T+30 min vs T+8h +13 %; +45 % vs T0; free water content T+30 min vs T+8h +14 %; +50 % vs T0)
Phen-oxye-thanol, Decylene glycol, Propylene glycol
4 - 5 %
Liposoluble
HYALURONIC ACID
9
Cosmos approved potentially NaTrue Vegan suitable CHINA approved
Product INCI Features in-vitro & ex-vivo in-vivoPreser- vatives
Use level Solubility
PRIMALHYAL ULTRAFILLER
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Fast wrinkle reduction, Skin texture improvement, Nasogenian wrinkles reduction and filler, Crow’s feet wrinkles filler, Antioxidant defences booster, Photo-pollution protector
Deeper skin penetration (1 %); Resistance to Hyaluronidase; Multifunctional: antioxidant, antipol-lutant and anti ageing (0.01 %, 0.1 %) Antioxidant activity: increase the expres-sion of thioredoxin reductase in oxidative stress conditions (0.1 %); Antipollution activity (0.1 %); Anti-ageing activity: Protection of the extracellular matrix by decreasing MMP-1 and MMP-3 collagenases production and collagen I degradation, even under photo pollution (0.1 %)
1. Clinical study: 20 women, average age 56 with wrinkles in the nasolabial area, (D28, application 2x day, 0.1 %) vs.placebo Wrinkel reduction from the nesogenian area 2. Clinical study: 20 women, average age 47 (D56, applica-tion 2x day, 0.1 %) vs.placebo (2 % Vitamin E Acetate) Reduction of UV induced lipid peroxidation and restoration of skin antioxidant capacities. 3. Clinical study: 30 women, average age 57 (D56, applica-tion 2x day, 0.1 %) vs.placebo Reduction of skin granulosity/roughness 4. Clinical study: 21 women, average age 63 (1h, 6h, 0.2 %) vs.placebo Reduction of crow’s feet number, wrinkle depth and length
None 0.1 - 0.2 %
Hydrosoluble
RENOVHYAL
Sodium Hyaluronate Hyaluronic acid with very low MW (20-50 kDa), Reduction of TEWL (patent), Collagen-boosting effect, Skin hydro-retention, Improves skin tonicity
Stimulation of tight junction protein synthesis, Stimulation of procollagen I
Moisturization (0.5 %, D28), "Skin is more moisturized, skin is more tonic, skin is firmer" (0.5 %, D28; Panelist's evaluation)
None 0.1 - 0.5 %
Hydrosoluble
HYALURONIC ACID
10
2‘200
2‘000
1‘800
1‘000
700
500
300
100
1‘400
50
20
5
Very low
Low
Average
Very high
High
Molecular weight kDa Powder form Coupling
Cutaneous permeability of HA
PrimalHyal 10<10 kDa
PrimalHyal 20 5 - 20 kDa
PrimalHyal 50 Renovhyal20 - 50 kDa
PrimalHyal 300 Bashyal Powder
100 - 300 kDa
Cristalhyal 1.0PrimalHyal 1000 700 - 1000 kDa
Cristalhyal 1 - 1.4 MDa
Hyalusphere XP & PF
Cristalhyal MW+1.4 - 2 MDa
Cristalhyal 2.21.8 - 2.2 MDa
NATIVE HYALURONIC ACID
> CRISTALHYAL range
INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate
HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACID
> CRISTALHYAL range INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate
> BASHYAL Powder, RENOVHYAL INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate
HYALURONIC ACID
11
Cosmos approved Vegan suitable CHINA approved Halal
Product INCI Features in-vitro & ex-vivo in-vivoPreser- vatives
Use level Solubility
HYDRINTENSE
Maris Aqua (and) Propa-nediol (and) Porphyridium Cruentum Extract
Moisture power and improvement of skin microrelief
Increase of skin's water content (ex-vivo) Increase of skin's water content upto 24hrs (5 %, 24h), Improvement of skin microrelief (5 %, D7)
None 3 - 5 %
Hydrosoluble
PORPHYRALI-NE SP
Porphyridium Cruentum Extract
Reinforcement of skin's self-defense, Film forming effect
Increase of epidermal lipid, Improve-ment of the anchoring capacity of basal membrane, Increase of beta-1-integrin and alpha-6-integrin
None 3 - 5 %
Hydrosoluble
Product INCI Features in-vitro & ex-vivo in-vivoPreser- vatives
Use level Solubility
AXOLIGHT
Water (and) Hydrolyzed Wheat Flour
Whitening, Lighte-ning
Inhibition of melanogenesis, Inhibition of melanogenesis via TRP-1 (ex-vivo)
Lightening efficacy on Asian volunteers (3 %, D56)
None 2 - 3 %
AXOLIGHT PLUS
Water (and) Hydrolyzed Wheat Flour (and) Pheno-xyethanol
Whitening, Lighte-ning
Inhibition of melanogenesis, Inhibition of melanogenesis via TRP-1 (ex-vivo)
Lightening efficacy on Asian volunteers (3 %, D56)
Pheno-xyethanol
2 - 3 %
SOPHOLI-ANCE S
Candida Bombicola / Glu-cose / Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment (and) Aqua (and) Potassium Sorbate
Anti-acne, Anti-lipase, Protection of skin's self-defense, Anti-bacterial
Anti-bactericidal activity Regulation of sebum produc-tion (2 %), Acne prevention (2 %)
Potas-sium sorbate
1 - 2 %
VEGETAN
Dihydroxyacetone DHA for a natural self-tan
Self tanning (5 %) None 1 - 5 %
VEGETAN EVOLVE
Erythrulose (and) Water Long-lasting tan enhancer
More intense and more natural skin tan colour
Long-lasting and more natural skin tan colour (2%, 3h, 6h, D1, D2, D3)
None 1 - 5 %
Hydrosoluble
VEGETAN FL
Dihydroxyacetone (and) Aqua
DHA for a natural self-tan
Self tanning (5 %) None 1 - 8 %
VEGETAN FL CREATION
Dihydroxyacetone (and) Aqua (and) Parfum (and) Polysorabate 20 (and) Caprylyl/Capryl Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides
Creative solution of DHA with a specific perfume to soften the odour during self tanning
Self tanning (5 %), Minimiza-tion of odour caused by DHA's reaction with skin (11 %)
None 2 - 15 %
VEGETAN GOLD
PEG-8 caprylic/capric glycerides (and) Water (and) Dihydroxyacetone (and) Octyldodeceth 25
The first oil compati-ble DHA
Brings a natural and very uniform tan (30%, 3h, 6h, D1, D2, D3, D4).
None 30 - 60 %
Hydrosoluble
MOISTURIZING
SKIN COMPLEXION
12
Cosmos approved CHINA approved Halal
Product INCI Features in-vitro & ex-vivo in-vivoPreser- vatives
Use level Solubility
VEGETAN PREMIUM PLUS
Dihydroxyacetone (and) Melanin
Self-tanning, Combination of DHA/Allomelanin like polymer (from caffeic acid polymerisation) for a natural tan, Quick and intense coloration and anti-oxidant activity
Antioxidant activity Kinetics of skin coloration (5 %, 3h, 6h, 8h)
None 3 - 5 % (Self-tanning products)
1 - 2 % (Glowing products)
WAKAMINE XP
Aqua (and) Undaria Pinnatifida Extract (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Potassium Sorbate
Whitening, Lighte-ning
Reduction of skin color, Inhibition of melanin production (ex-vivo)
Comparable lightening effect as 2 % Arbutin (1 % Wakamin XP + 1 % Arbutin)
Benzyl alcohol, Potas-sium sorbate
1 - 3 %
WHITESPHERE PREMIUM *Spherulite ®
Sucrose Palmitate (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Glyceryl Linoleate (and) Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (and) Aqua (and) Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract (and) Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (and) Undaria Pinnatifida Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol
Synergistic complex of whitening actives encapsulated in Spherulites for improved penetration of the well known whitening actives, Specific treatment against age spots
Inhibition of melanin production of Galabridin (Lit.), Inhibiton of melanin production by Undaria Pinnatifida extract (ex-vivo), Anti-oxidative capacity of ascorbic acid (Lit.), Anti-inflammatory activity of Galabridin (Lit.), Reduction of melanin production (ex-vivo)
Age spot reduction (1 %; Panelist's evaluation)
Pheno-xyethanol
0.5 - 1 %
WHITESPHERE PREMIUM XP *Spherulite ®
Sucrose Palmitate (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Glyceryl Linoleate (and) Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (and) Aqua (and) Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract (and) Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (and) Undaria Pinnatifida Extract (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Potassium Sorbate
Synergistic complex of whitening actives encapsulated in Spherulites for improved penetration of the well known whitening actives, Specific treatment against age spots
Inhibition of melanin production of Galabridin (Lit.), Inhibiton of melanin production by Undaria Pinnatifida extract (ex-vivo), Anti-oxidative capacity of ascorbic acid (Lit.), Anti-inflammatory activity of Galabridin (Lit.), Reduction of melanin production (ex-vivo)
Age spot reduction (1 %; Panelist's evaluation)
Benzyl alcohol, Potas-sium sorbate
0.5 - 1 %
SKIN COMPLEXION
13
Cosmos approved potentially NaTrue Vegan suitable CHINA approved Halal
Product INCI Features in-vitro & ex-vivo in-vivoPreser- vatives
Use level Solubility
BISABOLIFE
Bisabolol Soothing, Redness reduction, Irritation reduction, Anti- oxidant
Soothing capabilities and decrease the production of three inflammatory cytokines (10 ug/mL)
Skin: Reduction of skin redness, after shaving and ap-plication of BisaboLife product vs. Placebo vs. Plant bisabolol vs. Chemical bisabolol (30 women, 18 - 64 years old, 0.2 %) Hair: Soothing action for itchy scalp (80 volunteers have tested shampoo with Bisabolife vs. plant bisabolol vs. chemical bisabolol (0.5 %, D14))
None 0.1 % - 1 %
Liposoluble
DEPOLLUTINE
Aqua (and) Arginine PCA (and) Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol
Limitation of polluti-on induced damage on skin
Reduction of microinflammation by targeting ICAM-1 (ex-vivo), Prevention from cigarette smoke damage (reduction of leukocyte adhesion)
Pheno-xyethanol
1 - 3 %
Hydrosoluble
GREVILLINE PF
Glycerin (and) Aqua (and) Skeletonema Costatum Extract (and) Phenoxye-thanol
Peptidic fraction of a phytoplankton, Anti-inflammatory, Anti-redness
Inhibition of IL-8 release and PLA2 activity
Reduction of UV-induced erythema (3 %, D3)
Pheno-xyethanol
1 - 3 %
Hydrosoluble
KENDI OIL
Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil
Natural oil rich in omega-3 fatty acids, Rich in natural tocopherol and less sensitive to oxidati-on, Dry oil with good sensoric properties
Subjective sensory assessment in comparison with Argan oil (panelist's evaluation)
None up to 100 %
Liposoluble
MARILIANCE
Aqua (and) Propanediol (and) Rhodosorus Marinus Extract
Marine neuro-soother
Reduction of TRPV1 expression, Inhibition of the expression of IL-1α, NRG, NGF R, Reduction of NGF production, Reduction of IL1α synthesis, Penetration of Mariliance in emulsion and validation of the results observed on IL-1α production (ex-vivo)
Reduction of skin sensitivity (3 %, D14, D28)
None 1 - 3 %
Hydrosoluble
MUCILIANCE FRUIT
Galactaric Acid A powerful chelating agent at a wide range of pH, can replace a number of chelating agents as EDTA or citric acid, Strong anti-oxidant and boosts preservatives
Chelating effect at wide pH-range None 0.1 - 0.2 %
Hydrosoluble
NEUROPHRO-LINE
Aqua (and) Propanediol (and) Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract
Overall skin stress control
Inhibition of stress hormone cortisol release, Stimulation of β-endorphin pro-duction, Global activation of anti-stress genes (transcriptomic on keratonocytes and fibroblasts), Activation of anti-stress proteins HMOX1 and NQO1 (proteomic on keratonocytes and fibroblasts), Increase of HMOX1 and NQO1 expression in epidermis (ex-vivo)
Efficacy on stressed (polluted air) skin: Improvement of skin luminocity, Reduction of skin redness, Improvement of glo-bal skin color (2 %, D14, D28), Eye dark circle reduction
None 0.1 - 2 %
Hydrosoluble
SKIN PROTEC TION
14
Cosmos approved potentially NaTrue Vegan suitable CHINA approved
Product INCI Features in-vitro & ex-vivo in-vivoPreser- vatives
Use level Solubility
NYAMPLUNG OIL
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Dry emollient with high content at unsaponifiables and tocotrienol, Produc-tion fully ecological
SPF boosting, DNA protection from UVA and -B, Anti-oxidation, Cell repair activity after wound
None 1 - 10 %
Liposoluble
OCALINE PF
Maris Aqua (and) Aqua (and) Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Phenoxye-thanol (and) Citric Acid
Prevention of sensitive skin by a neurocosmetic approach
Inhibition of the mast cells degranulation (ex-vivo)
Preventive effect on sensitive skin (stinging test) (5 %, D14), Soothing of irritated skin (10 %, 60 min, 180 min, 24h)
Potas-sium sorbate, Pheno-xyethanol
3 - 10 %
Hydrosoluble
OCALINE XP
Maris Aqua (and) Aqua (and) Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract (and) Citric Acid (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Potassium Sorbate
Prevention of sensitive skin by a neurocosmetic approach
Inhibition of the mast cells degranulation (ex-vivo)
Preventive effect on sensitive skin (stinging test) (5 %, D14), Soothing of irritated skin (10 %, 60 min, 180 min, 24h)
Benzyl alcohol, Potas-sium sobrate
3 - 10 %
Hydrosoluble
SENSITYL
COSMOS certifica-tion pending
Water (and) Phaeodacty-lum Tricornutum Extract (and) Pentylene Glycol
The sensitive skin good mood influencer / soothing, calming, neuro-soothing, skin micro-flora rebalancing
Epigenetic control of inflammation through exosomal communication, Gene-tic control of skin soothing and calming (downregulation of a complete set of genes involved in anti-inflammatory & soothing activities), Control of the acute phase of inflammation (reduction of immune cells recruitment), Inhibition of immune cells recruitment (significant re-duction of dendritic cells) (ex-vivo 3 %), Reduction of pro-inflammatory signal through IL-8 inhibition (ex-vivo 3 %), Reduction of pain sensation through TRPV1 expression reduction (ex-vivo 3 %), Control of microbiol proliferation (ex-vivo 3 %)
Protection of skin microbiota against sensitive skin condi-tions (3 % vs placebo, D28), Restoration and protection of sensitive skin (3 %, D7), Improvement of cutaneous reactivity (3 %, D28), Soothed skin for a better mood : mood portraits (a non verbal method) Emotion decoding system (3 %, D28)
Sodium Bezoate (and) Bezoic Acid
1-3 %
Hydrosoluble
SOOTHEX CQ U/A
Dipropylene Glycol (and) Boswellia Serrata Gum
Soothing, Reduction of skin irritation, Suitable for sensitive skin formulations
Inhibition of 5-Lipoxygenase Reduction of skin reddening induced by a depilatory cream (2.5 %, from 10 min to 1 h), Reduction of AHA induced irri-tation (2 %, 5 min), Reduction of SLS induced skin irritation (2.5 %, D3, D5, D8) Itchy scalp soothing (2.5%, D28, panelist's evaluation)
None 0.5 - 2.5 %
Liposoluble, Hydroso-luble with surfactant
SOOTHEX ISA CQ U/A
Isostearyl Alcohol (and) Boswellia Serrata Gum
Soothing, Reduction of skin irritation, Suitable for sensitive skin formulations
Inhibition of 5-Lipoxygenase Reduction of skin reddening induced by a depilatory cream (2.5 %, from 10 min to 1 h), Reduction of AHA induced irri-tation (2 %, 5 min), Reduction of SLS induced skin irritation (2.5 %, D3, D5, D8) Itchy scalp soothing (2.5%, D28, panelist's evaluation)
None 0.5 - 2.5 %
Liposoluble, Hydroso-luble with surfactant
SKIN PROTEC TION
15
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2019 | 05
Our partner Givaudan has developed a patented micro-encapsulation system called Spherulites® which, alongside a fascinating success story, impres-ses above all for its unique technology.
Spherulites® are multi-layered microspheres of surf-actants that can encapsulate both water-soluble and oil-soluble actives, and can therefore serve as trans-porting agents in cosmetic products. This "encapsu-lation" technology has interesting auxiliary propeties:
For thousands of years, Traditional Chinese Medicine has been helping millions of people to maintain a good state of health. The aim of TCM is to achieve balance in the body’s natural equilibrium using plant extracts, which have been used in TCM throughout the millennia. These extracts are used either alone or in synergy with other natural materials to treat specific health issues.
The Ritual Essenz™ TCM collection of Givaudan Active Beauty leverages the know-ledge of modern, qualified TCM doctors who have developed exclusive extracts for skin care applications. These extracts have been crafted following the fundamental Five Elements rule of TCM (Wuxing) to fulfil the specific needs of hair and skin.
Discover the inspiring RitualEssenz™ TCM collection, consisting of 5 pure extracts and 2 blends.
Spherulite® microencapsulation technology
Non-ionic and anionic Spherulites®, for instance, improve penetration into the skin layers, while the cationic varieties improve adhesion on the skin surface. The multi-layered encapsulation can also be exploited to achieve a long-lasting action. Fur-thermore, Spherulites® allow sensitive actives to be stabilized.
Alongside a standard range, custom solutions can be developed in which several active ingredients are packed together into Spherulites®.
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For more information visit our focus topic: www.impag.ch
SPHERULITES®
RITUAL ESSENZ™ TCM
Unique encapsulation technology
Botanical extracts rooted in traditional chinese medicine