G i v e yo u r fo r m u l at i o n Sta r a p p e a l !
p o l y u r e t h a n e s f o r c o s m e t i c s
Bayer MaterialScience AG51368 Leverkusen Germany
this information and our technical advice – whether verbal, in writing or by way of trials – is given in good faith but without a warranty, and this also applies where proprietary rights of third parties are involved. it does not release you from the obligation to test the products supplied by us as to their suitability for the intended processes and uses. the application, use and processing of the products are beyond our control and, therefore, entirely your own responsibility. should, in spite of this, liability be established for any damage, it will be limited to the value of the goods delivered by us and used by you. We will, of course, provide products of consistent quality within the scope of our General conditions of sale and Delivery.edition: 2011-03 · order-no.: ms00052980 · printed in Germany · DM
S000
5298
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i n n o v a t i v e c o S m e t i c r a w m a t e r i a l S
Over 60 years ago, Otto Bayer and his staff developed poly-
urethanes – a significant discovery that established Bayer as a
pioneer in the field of polyurethane chemistry. Ever since,
Bayer has systematically pursued the development of
polyurethanes. We now offer innovative raw materials for the
cosmetic industry based on two technology platforms:
Aqueous polyurethane film formers
Polyurea powder as a sensory additive
e n v i r o n m e n t a l l y f r i e n d l y
A unique manufacturing and filling process ensures the pro-
duction of highly pure polyurethanes:
Baycusan® products are completely free of cosolvents
like ethanol or N-methylpyrrolidone
Baycusan® products contain no preservatives
Baycusan® film formers can be used in low- or zero-VOC hair
styling products, thus meeting the most stringent environ-
mental regulations.
e a S y t o f o r m u l a t e
Baycusan® film formers offer several formulating advantages
compared to existing film formers:
Suitable for cold processing
High energy input not required
No neutralization required
Useful over a wide range of pH
Compatibility with commonly used cosmetic ingredients
m u l t i f u n c t i o n a l r a w m a t e r i a l
The Baycusan® product line is truly diverse: It is designed
for skin care, sun care, hair styling and color cosmetic ap-
plications. Polyurethanes meet many challenges of formulat-
ing elegant and up to date cosmetic products due to their
versatility and beautiful aesthetics. Aqueous Baycusan® film
former products form a clear, odorless film on skin and hair.
The process enables the design of unique polymer structures
with the following attributes:
Non-tacky, non-greasy and smooth skin feeling
Unique film elasticity and flexibility
Outstanding water/high humidity resistance
Exceptional SPF boosting effect
Baycusan® powder imparts a powdery, velvety finish on the
skin. In decorative cosmetics, Baycusan® powder improves
the spreadability, color expression and color uniformity of
formulations on the skin.
2 … 3
p o l y u r e t h a n e S
f o r c o S m e t i c S
e a S y t of o r m u l a t e
f i l m f o r m e r S a n d S e n S o r y a d d i t i v e S
e n v i r o n m e n t a l l y
f r i e n d l y
especially suitable suitable
b a y c u S a n ® c p o r t f o l i o
liquiD, aqueous polyurethane Dispersions poWDer
b ayc u S a n ® c 1000 c 1001 c 1003 c 1004 c 1008 c 1005
inci name Polyurethane-34 Polyurethane-34 Polyurethane-32 Polyurethane-35Polyurethane-x(proposed)
Methoxy PEG-17/Methoxy PEG-11/HDI Crosspolymer
Solids [%] 40 ± 2 32 ± 2 40 ± 2 50 ± 2 30 ± 2 100
Avg. particle size [µm] - - - - - 20 ± 5
pH 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.5 -
Viscosity [mPa·s] ‹ 500 ‹ 1000 ‹ 1000 ‹ 500 ‹ 1000
applic ations
Skin Care
Sun Care
Skin Mask
Hair Styling
Color Cosmetics
4 … 5
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[Sun c are]
SPF boosting effect
Outstanding water resistance
Stabilization properties
No “balling” effect
Non-greasy and non-sticky “skin feeling”
High formulation flexibility
Easy to use
[color coSmetic S]
Outstanding water resistance
Excellent abrasive resistance
Good non-transfer properties
Fast drying
Good balance of hardness and flexibility
Non-greasy and non-tacky soft afterfeel on skin
Easy to remove
[hair St ylinG]
Excellent high humidity curl retention
Strong elastic memory
Natural strong hold
Conditioning effect (detangling effect)
Non-tacky feel and natural look
Excellent sprayability
Easy to remove (no build-up on hair)
[SU N CAR E ]Key features
SPF boosting effect
Outstanding water resistance
Stabilization properties
No “balling” effect
Non-greasy and non-sticky afterfeel on skin
High formulation fl exibility
Easy to use
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f i l m f o r m at i o n
When incorporated into sun care formulations, Baycusan® C 1000 forms a highly flexible, breathable film that mimics the move-
ment of skin. This film creates a naturally soft feel on the skin without any tightening sensation.
To determine the breathability of Baycusan® C 1000, the water vapor transmission of its film on hydrated vitro skin was measured.
For comparison, hydrated vitro skin was coated with either Baycusan® C 1000 or with a competitive polymer solution (40 % solids)
at a concentration of 2 mg/cm2. Figure 1 shows clearly that Baycusan® C 1000 forms a breathable film whereas an acrylates
copolymer film former is more occlusive than either the control or Baycusan® C 1000.
recommenDeD raW materials
t r a d e n a m e inci name chemical deScription uSe
Baycusan® C 1000 Polyurethane-34Aqueous polyurethane dispersion
(40 % polymer, 60 % water)Film former for any type of
sun care formulation
physic al properties
p h y S i c a l p ro p e rt i e S baycusan® c 1000
Solids 40.0 ± 2.0 %
Viscosity at 23 °C ≤ 500 mPa·s
pH 7.5 ± 1.0
Glass transition temperature of polymer* -51.5 °C
Minimum film formation temperature of polymer* ‹ 0 °C
* These values provide general information and are not part of the product specification
14000
16000
12000
10000
8000
6000
4000
200
0
g/m
2 d
Figure 1: Water vapor transmission results
Controlvitro skin
Baycusan® C 1000 (as supplied)
Acrylates copolymer (40 % in Ethanol)
[APPLICATIONS ]polyurethane film former
baycuSan ® c 1000
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S p f b o o S t i n G e f f e c t
Figure 2 shows results of in vitro SPF measurement of oil-in-water sun care formulations containing different
UV filter combinations.
As shown in Figure 3, Baycusan® C 1000 is an effective SPF booster with Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Triazone,
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyltriazine and Benzophenone-3.
Sun care formulations containing combination of the above mentioned UV filters with other commonly used
UV filters show this SPF boosting effects in an analogous way. As shown in figure 3, this SPF boosting effect of
Baycusan® C 1000 is confirmed by in vitro as well as in vivo measurements.
10 % Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate - A
10 % Octocrylene - B
5 % Ethylhexyl Salicylate - C
10 % Homosalate - D
5 % Ethylhexyl Triazone - E
10 % Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyltriazine - F
10 % Methylene Bis-Benzoyltriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol - G
6 % Benzophenone-3 - H
Without film former
With 5.0 % Baycusan® C 1000
With 7.5 % Baycusan® C 1000
Figure 2: In vitro data for formulation with Baycusan® C 1000
30
35
25
20
15
10
5
0
In v
ivo
SPF
A B C D E F G H
2,41,9
5
12
5
24
11
33
42,7
53
12,312,7
6,7
14,4
Figure 3: In vivo SPF data formulations with and without Baycusan® C 1000
17.7
26
30
35
25
20
15
10
5
0
In v
ivo
SPF
RR 8014 RR 8021RR 8020
29.6
13.6
21.2
32.6
23.1
S ta b i l i Z at i o n p r o p e r t i e S
These light microscopy pictures show the effect of Baycusan® C 1000
on the structure of an oil-in-water emulsion and its influence on the
stability of the emulsion. By adding Baycusan® C 1000 in an oil-in-
water emulsion, the oil particle diameter is reduced and the particle
distribution narrow.
w at e r r e S i S ta n c e
The water resistance of oil-in-water formulations was evaluated on four formulations according to the COLIPA Guidelines (December, 2005) with five
panelists.
Table 1: In vivo water resistance data
fo r m u l at i o n concentration of baycusan® c 1000 [wt. %] (as supplied) water resistance retention [%]
RR 8020 7.5 54.1
RR 8021 5.0 61.6
RR 8022 7.5 66.8
RR 8023 7.5 98.2
Picture 1: Light microscopy, 1 week after formulating
rr 8021 without baycuSan® c 1000 rr 8021 with 5 wt. % baycuSan® c 1000
[APPLICATIONS ]polyurethane film former
baycuSan ® c 1000
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Key features
baycusan® c polyurethane fi lm former
Outstanding water resistance
Excellent abrasive resistance
Good non-transfer properties
Fast drying
Non-greasy and non-tacky soft afterfeel on skin
Easy to remove
baycusan® c polyurea powder
Excellent skin feeling: powdery, velvety fi nish on skin
Outstanding pigment spreadability (even color coverage)
Enhancement of color expression
Excellent cohesive strength of product in pressed powder form
[COLOR COSMETICS]
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o u t S ta n d i n G w at e r r e S i S ta n c e f o r m a S c a r a f o r m u l at i o n S
An evaluation of water resistance was conducted in vitro by applying a mascara formulation on a wool swatch under controlled
conditions. After drying, coated swatches were submerged in water under gentle stirring at 25 °C for 30 minutes. The water resist-
ance was measured as the difference in color lightness (L*) and weight of the mascara layer before and after immersion. Oil-in-
water mascara formulations containing either Baycusan® C 1000 or Baycusan® C 1004 show improved water resistance:
79 % improvement in color retention in case of Baycusan® C 1000.
63 % improvement in color retention in case of Baycusan® C 1004.
Reduction of the weight loss of about 70 % with either Baycusan® C 1000 or Baycusan® C 1004.
recommenDeD raW materials
t r a d e n a m e inci name chemical deScription uSe
Baycusan® C 1000 Polyurethane-34 Aqueous polyurethane dispersion (40 % polymer, 60 % water)
Film former for oil-in-water and water based color cosmetics formulations
Baycusan® C 1004 Polyurethane-35 Aqueous polyurethane dispersion (41 % polymer, 59 % water)
Universal film former for any type of color cosmetics formulation
Baycusan® C 1005Methoxy PEG-17/Methoxy PEG-11/HDI Crosspolymer
Polyurea powder (100 % polymer) Multifunctional sensory additive for any type of color cosmetics formulation
physic al properties
p h y S i c a l p ro p e rt i e S baycusan® c 1000 baycusan® c 1004 baycusan® c 1005
Solids 40.0 ± 2.0 % 41.0 ± 2.0 % 100 %
Avg. particle size – – 20 ± 5µm
Viscosity at 23 °C ≤ 500 mPa·s ≤ 500 mPa·s -
pH 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 -
Glass transition temperature of polymer* -51.5 °C -45.5 °C -
Minimum film formation temperature of polymer* ‹ 0 °C ‹ 0 °C -
* These values provide general information and are not part of the product specification
[APPLICATIONS ]polyurethane film former
baycuSan® c 1000 and c 1004
Color retention [%]
Weight retention [%]
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
Rete
ntio
n [%
]
No film former Baycusan® C 1004 Baycusan® C 1000 PU dispersion 1 Acrylates copolymer 1 Acrylates copolymer 2
95,3
84,990,2
38,1
82,278,4
68,2
87,9
77,9
49,8
91,9
84
Figure 4: Color retention & weight retention results
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i m m e d i at e n o n - t r a n S f e r p r o p e r t i e S
The evaluation of non-transfer properties was conducted in vivo by spreading a fixed amount of foundation onto the forearm of
volunteers under controlled conditions. After drying, the volunteers left an imprint of their forearm on a sheet of absorbing paper.
As shown in picture 3, the imprints left from different foundation formulations containing Baycusan® C 1004 are significantly re-
duced compared to standard formulations without Baycusan® C 1004.
e X c e l l e n t r u b r e S i S ta n c e f o r m a S c a r a a n d e y e l i n e r f o r m u l at i o n S
Baycusan® C 1004 imparts superior rub-off resistance to color cosmetics formulations and is therefore an excellent choice for formulating waterproof and
rub-off resistant mascaras and eyeliners. Those excellent rub-off resistance properties of a mascara formulation (RR 8017) are demonstrated in picture 2.
warm tap water 10 SecondS Gentle rubbinG
baycuSan ® c 1004 o/w
Standard baycuSan® c 1004
w/o
Standard baycuSan® c 1004
w/S
Standard baycuSan® c 1004
no film former
baycuSan ® c 1004
no film former
Picture 2: Rub-off resistant results
Picture 3: Results of imprints
[APPLICATIONS ]polyurethane film former
baycuSan® c 1000 and c 1004
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e n h a n c e m e n t o f c o l o r e X p r e S S i o n i n l i p S t i c K S
Baycusan® C 1005 positively affects the pigment spreadability of any type of
pigmented formulation. This excellent pigment spreadability is demonstrated
by an even color distribution on skin (better color pay-off ) and a better cover-
age, as shown in picture 4 in case of a lipstick formulation.
Picture 4: From left to right: control formulation 1 (with a compet-
itive powder 1), control formulation 2 (with a competitive powder
2), formulation with 2 wt. % Baycusan® C 1005 (formulation RR
8028).
i m p r o v e m e n t o f t h e c o h e S i v e S t r e n G t h o f p r e S S e d p o w d e r
Figure 5 displays the infl uence of Baycusan® C 1005 and other widely used powders like Nylon-12, Silica, Polyethylene etc. on the
cohesive strength of an eyeshadow pressed powder, at a concentration of 2 wt. % active. In order to quantify the cohesive strength
of the pressed powders, a drop test was performed: 10 times onto cement from a height of 30 cm. The number of drops required
to produce cracks in the pressed powder was noted. As shown in Figure 5, Baycusan® C 1005 imparts not only a powdery, velvety
fi nish on skin, but improves signifi cantly the cohesive strength of the formula, too.
[APPLICATIONS ]p o ly u r e a p o w d e r
b ayc u S a n ® c 1 0 0 5
e l e G a n t f i n i S h a n d l u X u r i o u S f e e l
Sensory evaluation was performed on a liquid foundation containing Baycusan® C 1005 and compared to a negative control (without powder). As
illustrated below, in the sensory profi le chart, Baycusan® C 1005 provides better spreadability and a powdery and less tacky afterfeel on the skin.
Furthermore, Baycusan® C 1005 imparts superior even-color coverage and color brightness in the formulation in comparison to a negative control.
15,0
12,0
9,0
6,0
3,0
0,0
Transferability*
Fluidity
Consistence
Thickness
Powdery sensation
Easiness of spreading
Velvety skin
Oily skin
Stickiness
Powdery touch
Brightness of the colour
Covering effect
Uniformity
Velvety effect
Shining skin
Comment: The attributes were quantifi ed on
linear scales from 0 to 15.
0 means that the attribute is not detectable and
15 means 100 % detectable.
The attributes with an asterisk (*) are signifi cant.
Control Baycusan® C 1005
SenSory profile of a liQuid foundation (performed by dermSc an):
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
Reco
rded
# o
f dro
ps,
whe
n cr
acki
ng is
vis
ible
Without
10
BismuthOxychloride
3
Polyethylene
4
Methyl MethacrylaseCrosspolymer
10
Nylon-12
6
Silica
7
Calcium AluminiumBorosilicate
1
Baycusan®
C1005
no c
rack
ing
visi
ble
Figure 5: Water vapor transmission results
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[HAI R STYLING]
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Key features
Excellent high humidity curl retention
Strong elastic memory Natural strong hold
Conditioning effect (detangling effect)
Non-tacky feel and natural look
Excellent sprayability
Easy to remove (no build-up on hair)
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e X c e l l e n t h i G h h u m i d i t y c u r l r e t e n t i o n
Baycusan® C 1001 and Baycusan® C 1008 provide excellent high humidity curl retention for styling formulations, even better than
traditional styling polymers. As shown below, curl retention is measured as a function of time at 75 % humidity and at 25 °C.
Caucasian, dark brown hair tresses were treated with an aqueous solution of Baycusan® C 1001 and Baycusan® C 1008 at a con-
centration of 2 wt. % active (~0.3 g of Baycusan® C solution/0,7 g hair).
va r i a b l e h o l d i n G p o w e r
Figure 6/7 shows a comparison of fl exural strength tests (2 wt. % active polymer in alcoholic solution, 50 % relative humidity,
21 °C). Baycusan® C 1008 imparts a strong holding power, in the same level as state of art acrylate copolymers.
95
100
90
85
80
75
70
65
60
55
500 50 100 150 200 250 300 350
Time [min.]
Hig
h H
umid
ity
Curl
Ret
enti
on [%
]
Baycusan® C 1008 Acrylate copolymer Baycusan® C 1001
recommenDeD raW materials
t r a d e n a m e inci name chemical deScription uSe
Baycusan® C 1001 Polyurethane-34Aqueous polyurethane dispersion
(32 % polymer, 68 % water)Hair styling fi lm former for any
kind of hair styling product
Baycusan® C 1008 Polyurethane-x (proposed)Aqueous polyurethane dispersion
(30 % polymer, 70 % water)Hair styling fi lm former for any
kind of hair styling product
physic al properties
p h y S i c a l p ro p e rt i e S baycusan® c 1001 baycusan® c 1008
Solids 32.0 ± 2.0 % 30.0 ± 2.0 %
Viscosity at 23 °C ‹ 1000 mPa·s ‹ 1000 mPa·s
pH 7.5 ± 1.0 7.0 ± 1.5
Glass transition temperature of polymer* -51.5 °C -45.5 °C
Minimal fi lm formation temperature of polymer* ‹ 0 °C ‹ 5 °C
* These values provide general information and are not part of the product specifi cation Baycusan® C 1008
Baycusan® C 1001
Competitive PU1
Competitive PU2
Acrylate copolymer
Maximum bending force [cN]
0 50 100 150 200 250
Figure 6/7: Results of HHCR test and fl exural strength tests
[APPLICATIONS ]p o ly u r e t h a n e f i l m f o r m e r
b ayc u S a n ® c 1 0 0 1 a n d c 1 0 0 8
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curl retention meaSurement after dry combinG
Baycusan® C 1001 Acrylate copolymer Competitive PUD
90
85
80
75
70
65
60
55
50
45
40
0 10 20 30 5040
x comb-through
% C
url r
eten
tion
reSultS after 40x dry comb-throuGh
initial curl acrylate copolymer competitive polyurethane baycusan® c 1001
e X c e l l e n t S t y l e r e t e n t i o n
Elasticity is one of the key characteristics of Baycusan® C 1001. This property results in excellent curl resilience, as shown on figure 8 and pictures
below. The graph illustrates the change in curl retention after combing through. After combing through 10 times, Baycusan® C 1001 clearly exhibits a
superior curl retention in comparison to an acrylate copolymer and a competitive polyurethane. The pictures below show the results after combing
through 40 times.
h i G h e l a S t i c i t y o n h a i r
Compared to traditional fixative polymers, Baycusan® C 1001 forms exceptionally flexible films on hair. Below are
SEM images of single knotted hair fibers coated with an acrylate copolymer and Baycusan® C 1001. Under stress,
the acrylate copolymer film becomes very brittle, while the film on Baycusan® C 1001 remains smooth and shows
no cracking.
baycuSan ® c 1001 acryl ateS copolymer
Figure 8: CR measurements Picture 5: Results after combing
26 … 27
curious? then visit us at www.bayercosmetics.com or contact us.
martin hüttner
phone: 0049 – (0)214 – 30 81712
email: [email protected]
Sophie viala
phone: 0049 – (0)214 – 30 44762
email: [email protected]