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CONTENTS
COVER
TITLEPAGE
COPYRIGHT
INTRODUCTION
BREAKFASTANDBRUNCHHome-madegranola
QuickBirchermuesli
Spicedbakedporridge
Tangyfruitsalad
Crispyfilowithhoneyedyoghurt
Cinnamoneggybreadwithquickstewedapple
EggsBenedictwithcrispyParmaham
Boiledeggswithanchovysoldiers
Spicedeggandspinachbreakfastwrap
Fennelsausagefrittata
Merguez-sausage-and-Fontina-stuffedcroissants
Smokedhaddockandspinachbakedeggs
Home-madebakedbeanswithpotatocakes
Hashbrownbakedeggswithcandiedbacon
BakedspicyMexicaneggs
SOUPS,BREADSANDSANDWICHES
Creamytomatosoupwithsundriedtomatopesto
Gazpacho
SpicedMexicansoup
Home-madetortillachipswithpicodegallodip
Smokybacon,sweetcornandpotatosoup
American-stylecheesebiscuits
Steamedmusselswithcherrytomatoesandpancetta
Saffronflatbreads
Spicyclamnoodles
Welshrarebit
Avocadoandblacksesamesprinkleonsourdough
Pear,goat’scheeseandwalnuttartine
Prawntostada
Courgetteandricottabruschette
PanBagnat
Ploughman’ssalad
Beerbread
Chipbutty
SALADFORLUNCHAnchovydipwithcrudités
Burratawithquickbalsamicfigjamandcrostini
BigCaesarsalad
Halloumi,courgetteandherbcakes
Slow-roastedtomatoandwatercresssalad
Orzopastasalad
Grilledsardineswithgremolata
TunaNiçoisesalad
Carrot,cuminandorangesalad
Mackerelcevichewithshavedfennelandgrapefruit
Quinoasalad
Feta,watermelon,cucumberandmintsalad
Griddledchickenthighswithchickpeas,piquillopeppersandlemonydressing
Prawnandcucumbersaladwithspicyyoghurtdressing
Scotcheggs
Beetroot,corianderseedandorange-curedsalmonwithappleandceleriacsalad
Teriyakisalmon
Sobanoodlesalad
AFTERNOONPICK-ME-UPSLemonandpoppyseedmadeleines
Pearandcrunchygranolamuffins
Peanutbutterandjamcookies
DulcedeLechebiscuits
Cranberry,marshmallowandpeanutchocolatefridgecake
Lemonandpistachiobaklava
Chocolateandmintcaramelcake
Saltedcaramelpopcorn
KITCHENSUPPERSGriddledpolentawithroastedvinetomatoesandgoat’scurd
BloodyMarylinguine
Lambkoftaswithmintandyoghurtdressing
BeetroothoumouswithZa’atarsprinkle
Buttermilk-friedchicken
Quicksweetpickledcelery
Home-madefishfingers
Sausageandcaramelisedredonionhotpot
Potatoandbeetrootgratin
Shepherd’spiewithcheesechamptopping
Braisedpeasandcarrotswithmintbutter
Chilli-mintedmushypeas
Gingerbeer-batteredfish
Beefstewwithmustardsuetdumplings
Twice-bakedbubbleandsqueakjacketpotatoes
Roastedbeetrootandthymerisotto
Roastchickenwithchickpeastuffingandbiggreensalad
CrispyroastduckwithChinesepancakesanddippingsauce
Hoisinandcucumbersalad
Barbecue-styleslow-roastedbeefbrisket
Crunchylightcoleslaw
Spicedsweetpotatowedges
FRIENDSFORDINNERSlow-braisedbeefcheekswithpappardelle
Chickenfricassée
Sautéedpotatoes
Herbybutterbeansaladwithcrispypittabread
Pomegranatemolasses-marinatedspatchcockquail
Salt-crustseabream
Braisedleekswithhazelnuts
Chinesebraisedoxtail
Radishsalad
Grilledlobsterwithchilli,garlicandparsleybutter
Beeffilletwithsalsaverde
BakednewpotatoeswithtruffleandParmesan
Stickyspicedchickenwings
Stir-friedgreenbeanswithsoyandpeanutdressing
Thairicewithcurrypasteandgreenherbs
Slow-cookedsmokypulledporkbuttwithchipotlemayo
Crushedpotatoeswithspringonionsandcheese
Broccolislaw
Stuffedribofbeef
HorseradishYorkshirepuddings
Aromaticlambchopswithmintyyoghurt
Chargrilledbroccoliandbulgursalad
PUDDINGSPineapplecarpacciowithpomegranateandvanillasalt
Aperolspritzjelly
Lemonandbasilgranita
Bananaandcoconutfritters
Spicedbananatartetatin
Lavendarcrèmecaramel
Espressopannacottawithcinnamonhazelnutbrittle
Etonmessbombe
Pearandgingergalette
Mangoparfaitpotswithmaceratedberries
Whitechocolateandlimemousse
Applecompotewithacreamywhip
Steameddatepuddingwithbutterscotchsauce
Hazelnutmeringuetower
Chillipoachedpearswithstaranisedust
Chocolateandpistachiosemifreddo
INDEX
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
INTRODUCTION
EVERYTHINGIKNOWABOUTCOOKINGI’VELEARNTTHROUGHHARDWORK,DRIVEANDPASSION.
Fromtheageof17Imadefoodmylife,andit’sfairtosaythatsincethenfoodhasbeenthemakingofme.ButthesortofcookingImademynamewith–intricatedishesmadewiththeworld’sfinestingredients–isamillionmilesfromthefoodIcookathome.WhenI’mwithfriendsandfamilyIwantthingstobemuchmorerelaxed.Istillwanttousegreatingredients,andtogetthemostfromthem,butmycookingbecomesmorerusticandeasy-going.
That’snottosayI’mnotstillusingthetechniquesIapplyinprofessionalkitchens.TheskillsIlearntundersomeoftheworld’sfinestchefs,fromAlbertRouxtoGuySavoy,willstaywithmefortherestofmylifeandI’dnomoreabandonthemthanIwouldopenagreasyspoon.Whenyouareaprofessionalchefyouapplyallyourknowledgeinstinctively–it’sjustthatyouhavetoapply
chefyouapplyallyourknowledgeinstinctively–it’sjustthatyouhavetoapplyitdifferently,becausecookingathomethrowsupadifferentsetofchallenges.Hopefullyyourdiners,betheyfriendsorfamily,won’tbeexpectingMichelin-qualitycooking(iftheyare,they’llbesorelydisappointedroundatmine),buttheycanstillbeamongthemostdemandingpeopletocookfor,neverafraidtotellyouwhattheythink.
Sowhatdotheyandyouwantfromhomecooking?That’sthefirstquestiontoask,andIthinkmyanswerisprobablythesameasitisineveryhouse.Withabusyfamily–there’smeandTanaandourfourchildren,Megan,Jack,HollyandTilly–Iwanttobeabletoprovidehealthyfoodthroughouttheday,frombreakfasttodinner,asquicklyandefficientlyaspossible.Iwantittobethekindoffoodthatgetseveryoneexcited,sothereneedstobelotsofvariety.Iwantittopackapunch,soIlovebigboldflavours.Aboveall,Iwantittobethesortoffoodthatwilldrawthewholefamilytogether.Itreallydepressesmehowmanyfamiliesdon’teatasaunitanymore,because,forme,sittingaroundatablesharingfoodandconversationisthebiggestpleasureinlifeandafamilythatdoesn’thavethatisallthepoorer.Butenoughofthetheory.Let’sgetontothepractice.Howdoyouachieveallthis?I’vedividedthisbookintochapterstoseeyouthroughthewholeday,fromweekdaybreakfaststhroughtoSaturdaynightdinners,andhopefullyyouwillfindplentyofrecipesthatwillbecomefamilyfavourites.Butbeforewegetontothose,letmesharesomegeneraltipstomakecookingapleasure.
BEORGANISED.Afteralifetimeinkitchens,this,Irealise,isthegoldenrule.Ninetimesoutoften,ifsomethinggoeswrong,it’syourpreparationthatwasatfault.Getyouringredientsout,prepthevegetables,haveallyourpansreadyandineasyreach.Notonlywillitmakeyourcookingmoreefficient,itwillalsomakeitfarlessstressful.Imightaddthatitalsomakesiteasiertotidyupasyougoalong,anothergreatskillthatprofessionalkitchenshavetaughtme.
BEADVENTUROUS.Greathomecookingisbuiltaroundtheclassics,butcookingthesameolddishescansoonbecomeachore.Thesecretistonotletthemgostale.Makesureyoukeepyourcookingexcitingbytweakingandadaptingit.Overthepast20yearsI’vereallynoticedabigchangeinpeople’sattitudestowhattheywillandwon’teat.Peoplearemuchmoreadventurousthesedays.Theylovetryingnewflavours,newingredientsandnewcookingtechniques,sotakeinspirationfromaroundtheworld.TryyourhandatAsiannoodlesorMexicantacos,makesomespicyMiddleEasternmeatballs.Evena
classiclikeroastbeefandYorkshirepuddingcanbegiventheoccasionalmakeover.Itwillmakeagreatchangeforyouandyourfamilyandgiveyouallrenewedenthusiasm.
BEBOLD.Onethingcookinghastodoistostandupandbenoticed.Itdoesn’tmatterifadishislightanddelicateorfull-onandgutsy,theflavoursshouldbedistinctandclear.Youdon’twantwishy-washy.Andthatmeansgettingthemaximumfromyouringredients.ThetwothingsInoticehomecooksdon’tuseconfidentlyenoughareheatandseasoning.Getyourpansproperlyhotbeforeaddingyouringredientsanddon’tbeafraidtogetagoodcolouronmeatandsometimesvegetables,asthiswilltranslateintoextraflavour.Similarly,seasonwellandearlyontobringouttheflavourofyouringredients,tastingasyougoalong.
BEREALISTIC.Alittleambitionisagoodthing,butit’salwaysgoodtoknowyourlimits.Notsomuchinthecomplexityofwhatyoumake–there’snothinginthisbookthatwillbebeyondareasonablecook–butintermsofyourmenuchoice.Thisismainlydowntogoodplanning.Don’tmakeamealthatrequiresfourdishestobestir-friedatthelastminute,ortrymakingafrozenpuddingafteryougetbackfromworkfordinnerthatevening.Rememberalsothatpracticemakesperfect.
BERELAXED.Ifyouworrythatsomethingwillgowrong,itprobablywill,sotrynottostressyourselfout.Remember,recipesareonlythereasaguidelineandmostofthetimealittlebittoomuchofthisortoolittleofthatisnotgoingtocauseacatastrophe.Getthechildrenoryourguestsinvolved.Havethemchoporstirorlaythetableandmakethewholeprocessamoresocialoccasion.Thatwayyou’llallhaveagoodtime–andifsomethingdoesgowrong,you’llhavesomeoneelsetoblame!
Butaboveall,havefun.Happycooking!
CHEFSHAVEADIFFICULTRELATIONSHIPWITHBREAKFAST.
Intruthit’sthemealtheyleastliketobeondutyfor–notjustbecausethey’relikelytohavebeenatworkuntil1a.m.thenightbefore,butalsobecauseitinvolvesalotoflast-minutework.Withmostmealsyouliveordiebyyourmise-en-place(allthepreparationyoudointhehoursbeforeservice,gettingthevegetableschoppedandpartcooked,thestocksreduced,thegarnishesready),whichleavesyoufreetoconcentrateonthemainelementofthedish.Withbreakfast,though,itdoesn’tworklikethatandthere’snotmuchyoucandoinadvance.Inevitablyitmeansmorehardworkwhenyourguestshavealreadysatdownandmadetheirchoices–short-ordercooking,wecallit.
It’seasierathome,ofcourse,becauseyouarepresumablynotgivingyourfriendsorfamilyachoice(ifyouare,youneedtostopthatrightnow!),but
friendsorfamilyachoice(ifyouare,youneedtostopthatrightnow!),butthereisstilladangeryou’llspendyourtimechainedtothestove,soit’simportanttoplanevenabreakfastorbrunchcarefullyanddoallyoucantomakeiteasyforyourself.Thefirstruleistochoosetherightdishes.Thiswilldependinlargepartonhowmanyyouarecateringfor:pancakesfortwoiseasy;pancakesfor12isanightmare.Scrambledeggsandomeletteswon’thangaroundandmustbeservedstraightaway.Poachedeggs,ontheotherhand,canbecookedinadvanceandreheatedinboilingwater.
Ifyourhouseislikemine,weekdaybreakfastsareabitofawrite-off.Theyareafunctionalbusiness–aquickbowlofcereal,apieceoftoast,ahuntforJack’sschooltie,andoutofthedoor–butthatdoesn’tmeanyoucan’tstillhaveacoupleofthingsonstandby.BeingagoodScot,Iwasbroughtuponporridge,butthesedaysItendtoseethatmoreasaweekendtreat,especiallymyspicedandbakedversion.Recently,though,I’vebecomeaconverttoBirchermuesli,acrossbetweenporridgeandmueslithatmakesafantasticallyhealthystarttotheday.Yousimplysoakoatsinyoghurtandapplejuice,ideallyovernight,andtopthemwithtoastednuts,seedsandgratedapplethenextmorning.Anotherpopulardishishome-madegranola–acombinationofoats,branandpuffedwheatbakedwithhoneyandseeds.Itwillkeepforweeksinanairtightjar.Bytheway,ifyouareafanoftraditionalporridgeandneedtomakeitinahurry,youshouldeitheruserolledoats,whichhavebeensteamedandflattenedintoflakessotheycookmorequickly,oryoucanuseatrickofmymum’s:shesoakedmoreflavoursomepinheadoatsincoldwaterovernight,about2partswaterto1partoats,thencookedthemintheusualwaythenextmorning.
Foramoreleisurelyweekendbrunchyoucangetmoreadventurous.There’stheclassicrepertoireofEnglishdishes,fromboiledeggandsoldiers,EggsBenedictorsmokedhaddocktothefullEnglish,butdon’tlimityourselftotheseshores.Americahasastrongbrunchtraditionandhashbrownsandproperhome-madebakedbeansarebothbrilliantinthemorning.Youcanalsogodownthespiceroutetoreinvigoratejadedpalates.Mexicaneggsorevenachilli-fleckedAsianfruitsaladwillperkupyourguestsinthesamewayasaspicyBloodyMarycan.Anddon’tforgetthatFrenchclassic,painperdu,oreggybreadaswealwayscallit.It’sbrilliantasasavouryaccompanimenttobakedbeansandbacon,butevenbetterdustedwithcinnamonandicingsugarandservedwithstewedapples.
Afterthat,you’llbereadytofacetheday,Ipromise.Here’smylistofbreakfastessentials.
BACON
Buythebestyoucan,traditionaldry-curedBritishoutofpreference.Ensureitisatroomtemperatureandstartwithahotpan.SlicesofParmahammakeaquick,super-crispyalternative.
POACHEDEGGS
Addasplashofvinegartoadeeppotofsimmeringwater.Crackveryfresheggsintoateacup,stirthewatertocreateavortexandthenverygentlylowerintothewater.Cookforacoupleofminutes,then‘shock’theminicedwater,tobereheatedinsimmeringwaterfor1minutewhenneeded.
PORRIDGEOATS
CoarserpinheadoatstypicalofIrelandhaveanuttierflavour,butrolledjumbooatscookmorequickly.
SCRAMBLEDEGGS
Thesecretsofsoft,richscrambledeggsaretostartwithacoldheavy-basedpan,onlybeattheeggsoncethey’reinthepan,andtoaddcoldbutterbeforestirringconstantlywithaplasticspatulatogetrightintothecorners.Iftheeggsstartsticking,takethepanofftheheatforamoment.
HOME-MADEGRANOLA
QUICKBIRCHERMUESLI
SPICEDBAKEDPORRIDGE
TANGYFRUITSALAD
CRISPYFILOWITHHONEYEDYOGHURT
CINNAMONEGGYBREADWITHQUICKSTEWEDAPPLE
EGGSBENEDICTWITHCRISPYPARMAHAM
BOILEDEGGSWITHANCHOVYSOLDIERS
SPICEDEGGANDSPINACHBREAKFASTWRAP
FENNELSAUSAGEFRITTATA
MERGUEZ-SAUSAGE-AND-FONTINASTUFFEDCROISSANTS
SMOKEDHADDOCKANDSPINACHBAKEDEGGS
HOME-MADEBAKEDBEANSWITHPOTATOCAKES
HASHBROWNBAKEDEGGSWITHCANDIEDBACON
BAKEDSPICYMEXICANEGGS
QUICKBIRCHERMUESLISERVES4Birchermuesliislikeacrossbetweenporridgeandregularmuesliinwhichoatsaresoftened,sometimesovernight,inyoghurt,applejuice,milkoramixofanyofthethree.It’sagreatstarttothedayandoneofthosesimplerecipeswhereyoucanmakeitupaccordingtowhat’stohand–youcanaddextraseeds,nutsandfruitasyouseefit.IalwaysincludegratedappleforthevitaminCandtoastanynutsinadrypanforextracrunch.
200–250mlyoghurt(flavouredyoghurt,e.g.blackberryorvanilla,isgreat)
4tbspapplejuice
200gjumborolledoats
4tbspflakedalmonds
½apple,grated,togarnish(optional)150gblackberries
1.Whisktheyoghurtandapplejuicetogetherinabowluntilwellcombined,thenstirintwo-thirdsoftheoats.Ifyouwish,youcansetthemixtureasideforuptoanhoursotheoatssoften;otherwise,useitimmediately.
2.Onceyouarereadytoserve,toastthealmondsinadryfryingpanuntilgolden.
3.Mixtheremainingoats.Topthemuesliwiththeblackberries,gratedapple(ifusing)andtoastedalmondsandserve.
1tspgroundcinnamon
½tspfreshlygratednutmeg,plusalittleextratosprinkle50gwholeblanchedalmonds50gblanchedhazelnuts75graisins1ripepear,peeled,coredandchoppedintosmallchunks500mlmilk,plusextraforserving200mldoublecream
2tbspdemerarasugar
1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.
2.Combinetheoatsandvanillaseedsinamixingbowl–useyourfingerstorubtheseedsthroughtheoats.Addthespices,nuts,raisinsandpearandmixwell.Stirinthemilkandcream,thenpourthemixtureintoabakingdish.Dustwithalittleextragratednutmeg.
3.Placeintheovenandbakefor30–35minutes,oruntiltheoatsarecompletelysoftenedandtheliquidabsorbed.
4.Heatthegrillonitshighestsetting.Sprinklethetopoftheporridgewiththesugarandplaceunderthegrillfor3–4minutes,oruntilthesugarhasmeltedandcreatedacrust.
5.Servewarm,withalittleextramilkonthesideifdesired.
TANGYFRUITSALADSERVES4
I’vetravelledaroundtheFarEastquiteabitoverrecentyears,andasyou’dexpect,it’sopenedmyeyestothepossibilitiesofspice.OneofthemostsurprisingdishesIcamebackwithisthischilli-spikedfruitsalad.Itmakesalight,refreshingpudding,butI’vedevelopedarealtasteforitfirstthinginthemorningtoo.Thesecretistomakesureyourfruitisn’ttooripe,sothesaladstayscrispandtangyandgivesaproperkick-starttoyourday.
1smallpineapple,peeled,coredandcutintobite-sizedpieces2crunchygreenapples,quartered,coredandcutintobite-sizedchunks2pears,nottooripe,coredandcutintobite-sizedpieces1mango,notoverlyripe,peeledandcutintobite-sizedpieces½cucumber,peeled,deseededandcutintobite-sizedchunks
FORTHEDRESSING
1½tbsptamarindpasteZestandjuiceof1lime2–3tbsppalmorbrownsugar½–1redchilli,
finelysliced,totaste
3tbspskinlessunsaltedpeanuts
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1.Firstmakethedressing.Mixthetamarindpaste,limezestandjuice,sugarandchilli,thenseasonwithalittlesaltandpepper.Mixwell,tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.
2.Toastthepeanutsinadryfryingpanwithasmallpinchofsaltuntilgoldenandtoasted.Wrapthenutsinacleanteatowelandrunarollingpinoverthemtocrushthem.
3.Mixthecrushedpeanutsintothedressing.Tasteandaddalittlemoresugarand/orsaltifneeded.
4.Combinethefruitsandcucumberinaservingbowl.Addhalfthedressingandtosswell.Tasteandaddtheremainingdressingifneeded.
USINGTAMARINDTamarind’stangyflavourmakesitaveryusefuladditiontosalads,andit’sdefinitelyworthtrackingdownajarifyoucan.Addingalittleextralimejuicecansometimesbeagoodsubstitute,thoughyoumayfindthesaladwilllackacertainfruitysharpness.TamarindpastecanalsobeusedinpadthaiandAsianfishdishes,chickencurriesandmyStickySpicedChickenWings.
CRISPYFILOWITHHONEYEDYOGHURTSERVES4
Thecombinationofpastry,Parmesan,honeyandyoghurtmaysoundstrange,butdogivetheseatry.TheGreeksofteneatfetaandfilotrianglesdrizzledwiththymehoneyandsesameseedsasasnack,soIdecidedtoreworkthemwithParmesanandaddedsomeluxuriousthickyoghurt.It’stheperfectcombinationofsavouryandsweetandworksparticularlywellforbrunch.
50gbutter
Smallbunchofthyme,leavesonly
75gParmesanorpecorinocheese
4sheetsoffilopastry,eachtrimmedtoalargesquareOliveoil,forfryingFreshlygroundblackpepperTOSERVE
250gGreekorthickyoghurt
2tbsprunnyhoney
1.Meltthebutterinasmallsaucepan.Meanwhile,putthethymeleavesinabowlandmixwithagoodpinchofpepper.
2.Placeasquareoffiloonaworksurface.Brushwithalittleofthemeltedbutter,sprinkleoveraquarterofthethymeleavesandgrateoveraquarterofthecheese.Brushtheedgeswithbutter,foldthesquareintoatriangleandpresstheedgestoseal.Slicethetriangleinhalf,creatingtwosmallertriangles,brushthecutedgeswithbutterandpresstoseal.Repeatwiththeremainingpiecesoffilountilyouhave8trianglesintotal.
3.Heatalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheat.Brushthepanwithalittleoiloranyleftovermeltedbutterandfryafewtrianglesatatimefor1–2minutesoneitherside,untilcrispandgolden.Setasideandkeepwarmwhilecookingtheremainingtriangles.
4.Mixtogethertheyoghurtandhoneyandservealongsidethecrispyfiloparcels.
HOWTOHANDLEHONEYStickyingredients,suchashoney,treacleandgoldensyrup,canbeamesstomeasureout,sorubthespoonfirstwithaneutraloil,likegrapeseed.Theingredientwillslideoffeasily.
CINNAMONEGGYBREADWITHQUICKSTEWEDAPPLESERVES4
Likemostfamiliesweoftenhavesomeslightlystalebreadknockingaround,andthis,alongwithbreadandbutterpudding,isagreatwayofusingitup.Normallyrecipescallforthecinnamonandsugartobesprinkledononlyattheend,butIliketoaddthemtotheeggmixsothatthesugarcaramelisesslightlyasyoucookit.Afewstewedapplesmaketheperfectaccompaniment.
3free-rangeeggs,beaten
4tbspwholemilk
1tspgroundcinnamon,plusextrafordusting
2tbspcastersugar
4thickslicesofslightlystalewhitebread,halvedintotrianglesButter,forfryingIcingsugar,fordusting
FORTHESTEWEDAPPLE400geatingapples,e.g.Braeburn,coredandchoppedintochunks
2tpspcastersugar
25gbutter
1.Firstmakethestewedfruit.Beginbymeltingthecastersugarinasmallsaucepanorsautépan,swirlitaroundinthepanbutdon’tstirit.Oncemelted,addtheapplesandbutter,cookfor2minutesbeforeaddingacoupleoftablespoonsofwater.Bringtoasimmerandcookfor5–8minutesoveralowheat,stirringnowandagainuntiltheapplebeginstocollapseandthechunksthatremainaretender.Setaside.
2.Meanwhile,puttheeggs,milk,cinnamonandsugarintoabowlandmixtogether.Dipthebreadintotheeggmixtureuntilsaturatedoneitherside.
3.Heatalargefryingpanoveramediumheat.Addaknobofbutterandcooktheeggybreadoneithersideuntilcrispandgolden.
4.Removeandservewiththewarmstewedappledustedwithalittleicingsugar.
HOWTOVARYTHERECIPEThisworksjustaswellwiththinlyslicedbaguettesandisevenmoredecadentwhenmadewithday-oldbrioche,croissantsorpanettone.
EGGSBENEDICTWITHCRISPYPARMAHAMSERVES4
SupposedlynamedafteraNewYorkstockbrokerwhoorderedpoachedeggsandhollandaiseasacureforhishangoverinthe1890s,thishasbecometheworld’smostfamousbrunchdish.It’sgreatwithspinachorsmokedsalmon,butIlikeitbestwithcrispParmaham.Timingistherealchallengehere,butthehollandaisewillholdinawarmplacefor30minutesorso,andyoucanalwaysmakethepoachedeggsinadvanceandreheatthem(seethetip).
Oliveoil,forfryingWhitewinevinegar,forpoaching
8slicesofParmaham
4free-rangeeggs
2Englishmuffins,splitinhalf
FORTHEHOLLANDAISESAUCE
3free-rangeeggyolks
2tsptarragonorwhitewinevinegar200mlunsaltedbutter,meltedLemonjuice,totasteSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1.Firstmakethehollandaise.Bringalargepanofwatertotheboil,thenreducetoasimmer.Placealargeheatproofbowloverthepan(itshouldnottouchthewater)andaddtheeggyolks.Addthevinegarandwhiskvigorously,untilthemixtureformsafoam,butmakesureitdoesn’tgettoohot.Ifnecessary,takeitonandofftheheatwhilewhiskingtopreventthishappening.Theaimistoachieveagolden,airyfoam.
2.Turntheheatoffunderthepanandwhiskinthemeltedbutteralittleatatime,untilitisallincorporatedandyouhaveatexturealmostasthickasmayonnaise.Finally,whiskinlemonjuice,saltandpeppertotaste,plusalittlewarmwaterfromthepanifthemixtureistoothick.Coverandsetaside.
3.Heatafryingpanoveramediumheat,addadashofoilandfrytheslicesofhamuntilcrisp.Removeanddrainonkitchenpaper.
4.Putthemuffinhalvesintheemptyfryingpanandtoastonbothsidesuntilgoldenandcrisp.
5.Meanwhile,bringasaucepanofwatertoagentlesimmerandaddadashofvinegar.Breakaneggintoateacuporramekin,thenwhiskthewatertocreateagentlewhirlpool,andtiptheeggintothecentreofit.Leavetocookfor3minutes,oruntiltheeggfloatstothetopandthewhiteiscookedbuttheyolkstillsoft.Lifttheeggoutwithaslottedspoon,drainonkitchenpaperandseasonwithapinchofsalt.Keepwarmwhileyoucooktheremainingeggsinthesameway.
6.Toserve,placeeachmuffinhalfonaservingplate.Topwithasliceofcrispyhamandapoachedegg.Spoonoverthehollandaisesauce,andplacetheremainingcrispyhamontheside.
HOWTOREHEATPOACHEDEGGS
HOWTOREHEATPOACHEDEGGSIfnecessary,youcanmakepoachedeggsinadvanceandreheatthembydippingtheminsimmeringwaterfor30secondsjustbeforeserving.
BOILEDEGGSWITHANCHOVYSOLDIERSSERVES2
Whodoesn’tlikeboiledeggsandsoldiers?It’soneofthosechildhooddisheswetendtoforgetaboutbutcomebacktowhenwehavekidsofourown.HereI’mturningitonitsheadbyspreadingthesoldierswithbutterandmashedanchoviestomakeakindofhome-madeGentleman’sRelish.It’sagreattwistonagreatclassicandguaranteedtomakeyourtastebudsstandtoattention.
2free-rangeeggs
FORTHEANCHOVYSOLDIERS
5–6best-qualitytinnedanchovyfilletsinoliveoilFreshlygroundblackpepper30–50gbutter,softened
4thinslicesofsourdoughorpaindecampagnebread2tbspfinelychoppedparsley(optional)1.Draintheanchovies,reservingtheoil,andplaceinamortarwithapinchofpepper.Pounduntilsmooth,thenaddthebutterandpoundagainuntilwellmixed.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.
2.Cooktheeggsingentlyboilingwaterfor4½minutes.Removethemassoonasthetimeisup.
3.Meanwhile,placeaheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheatandadd1–2tablespoonsofthereservedanchovyoil.Oncehot,addthebreadandtoastitoneachsideuntilgoldenbrown.
4.Spreadthetoastwiththeanchovybutter,sprinklewiththechoppedparsley,ifusing,andsliceintosoldiers.Servealongsidethesoft-boiledeggs.
HOWTOSOFTBOILEGGSThesecrettosoftlyboilingeggsistolowerthemgentlyintoboilingwateronaspoonandtiltingitsotheydon’thitthebottomofthepan.Thencounttofive,turntheheatdown,andcookforfourandahalfminutes.
SPICEDEGGANDSPINACHBREAKFASTWRAPSERVES4
You’llfindbreakfastwrapslikethesesoldbystreetvendorsalloverIndiaandtheymakeareallybalancedmeal,especiallyifyouareonthego.AthomeIliketoputthecurriedeggs,spinachmixandbowlsofmintyyoghurtonthetable,leavingeveryonetohelpthemselves.
1–2tspcuminseeds1–2tspmustardseedsOliveoil,forfrying1onion,peeledandfinelyslicedButter,forfrying200gbabyspinach,rinsed1tspgarammasala2tspgroundturmeric8free-rangeeggs4parathasorthinnaanbreads
3tspfinelyshreddedmintleaves
6tbspnaturalyoghurt
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1.Toastthecuminandmustardseedsinalightlyoiledpanuntilaromatic.Addtheonion,aknobofbutterandapinchofsaltandfrygentlyoveramediumheatfor5–7minutes,untiltheonionistenderanddarkgolden.Addthespinachandcookuntilwilted.Setaside.
2.Meltanotherknobofbutterinaseparatepanwithasplashofoliveoil.Addthegarammasalaand1teaspoonoftheturmericandcookforaminuteortwo,untilaromatic.
3.Meanwhile,beattheeggsinabowl.Pourthemixtureoverthespices,addaknobofbutterandgentlyscrambleoveralowheatuntilcookedtoyourliking.Addanotherknobofbuttertotheeggsjustbeforetheyfinishcookingandmixthrough.
4.Warmtheparathasornaanbreadsaccordingtothepacketinstructions–usuallyabout2minutesinadrypan.
5.Chopthespinachmixture,discardinganyliquid,thenfoldintotheeggs.
6.Addthechoppedmintandremainingteaspoonofturmerictotheyoghurt.Seasonwithapinchofsaltandmixwell.
7.Dividetheeggmixturebetweentheparathasornaanbreads.Topwithdollopsoftheyoghurt,thenfoldoverandserveimmediately.
FENNELSAUSAGEFRITTATASERVES4Sausageandegg,Italianstyle.Thesausagemeatistakenoutofitscasingsoitcooksmorequicklyandallowsallthemeatflavourstominglewiththeonionsandfennel.Thenyouaddbeateneggstomakeafrittata–essentiallyanopenomelette.Finishitoffwithmeltedmozzarella.There’snoneedtouseyourbestbuffalomilkmozzarellaforthis–anygoodqualitycow’smilkmozzarellawilldo.
Oliveoil,forfrying
1onion,peeledandthinlysliced
1tspfennelseeds
2–4Italianfennelsausages(about350gintotal)
8free-rangeeggs
Smallhandfulofparsley,finelychopped50gParmesancheese,finelygrated1ballofgood-qualitymozzarellacheese,slicedSeasaltandfreshly
groundblackpepper1.Heatanon-stick,heavy-based,ovenprooffryingpan,addadashofoilandgentlysautétheonionwiththefennelseedsandapinchofsaltuntilsoftandlightlycaramelising.
2.Meanwhile,removethesausagemeatfromtheskin.
3.Oncetheonionsarecooked,crumblethesausagemeatintothepan,breakingitintosmallchunkswithawoodenspoon.Fryoveramediumheatuntilcookedthroughandcolouredontheoutside.
4.Beattheeggsinabowlandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Addtheparsleyand25goftheParmesan.Pourthemixtureoverthemeat,mixwellandcookoveramedium-lowheatfor5–7minutes,oruntilthefrittataisalmostset.
5.Preheatthegrilluntilhot.ArrangethemozzarellaoverthefrittatainasinglelayerandsprinklewiththeremainingParmesan.Placethepanunderthegrillfor3–4minutes,oruntiltheeggiscookedthroughandthemozzarellamelted,bubblingandlightlybrowned.
6.Setasidetocoolslightly,thentransfertoaservingboard.Cutintowedgestoserve.
HOWTOSOFTENFENNELSEEDSSomepeopleworryaboutfennelseedsbeingtoohardandgettingstuckintheirteeth.Ifso,youcanalwayssoakthemincoldwaterfor10minutesanddrainthembeforecooking.Thiswillsoftenthemupnicely.
4best-qualitycroissants
175gFontinaorPortSalutcheese,thinlyslicedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1.Placeafryingpanoveramediumheat,addadashofoliveoilandfrythesausagesliceswithalittlesaltandpepperuntilcookedthroughandlightlycolouredontheoutside.Removeandsliceonthediagonal,thenplaceinabowl.
2.Addthegarlictothepanandfryfor30seconds,thenaddtheparsleyandcapersandheatforanother30seconds.Mixwiththesausages.
3.Preheatthegrill.
4.Slicetheverytopoffeachcroissanttocreatealid.Frythecutsidesinthehotpanuntilgolden.Gentlypushdowntheinsideofthecroissantstocreateahollow,thenfillwiththesausagemixture.Topwiththeslicesofcheeseandseasonwithsaltandpepper.
5.Placethefilledcroissants(withoutthelids)onabakingsheetandputunderthehotgrillfor1–2minutes,untilthecheesehasmelted.Placethelidsontopandserve.
HOWTOUSEFRESHHERBSINCOOKINGAddthestalksofsoftherbsduringcookingtoimpartflavour,andtheleavesjustbeforeservingtoimpartmaximumfragranceandcolour.
SMOKEDHADDOCKANDSPINACHBAKEDEGGSSERVES4–6
ThecombinationofsweetlysmokedhaddockandspinachisaclassicI’dbehappytositdowntoatanytimeoftheday,butlikekedgeree,itreallylendsitselftoaheartyweekendbrunch.Insteadofbotheringtomakeawhitesaucewithmilkandflour,I’musingcrèmefraîcheasaquickcheat,cuttingtherichnesswithsomelovelywholegrainmustard.YoucouldalwaysmixinsomecrispybaconpiecesorsprinkleoversomefreshlygratedParmesanbeforefinishingitunderthegrillifyouliked.
Butter,forfryingOliveoil,forfrying
300gbabyspinach,rinsed
300gundyed,skinlesssmokedhaddock,choppedintochunks300mlcrèmefraîche
1tbspwholegrainmustard
4tarragonsprigs,leavesonly
6free-rangeeggs
4springonions,finelyslicedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.
2.Placeanovenprooffryingpanorshallowcasseroledishoveramediumheat.Addaknobofbutterandadashofoliveoil,thensautéthespinachwithalittlesaltandpepperuntilwilted.Placethehaddockchunksontopofthespinachandsteamfor3–4minutes.Mixthefishintothespinach.
3.Combinethecrèmefraîche,mustardandtarragoninabowl,andaddalittleseasoningtotaste.Spoonhalfthemixtureoverthespinachandmix.Allowtowarmthrough,thenturnofftheheat.
4.Breaktheeggsoverthetopofthedish.Dotwiththeremainingcrèmefraîcheandplaceintheovenfor8–10minutes,untilthewhitesarecookedthroughbuttheyolksstillsoft.
5.Setasidetocoolslightlybeforesprinklingwithspringonionsandserving.
HOME-MADEBAKEDBEANSWITHPOTATOCAKESSERVES4
Likeeverychild,Ilovedtinnedbakedbeanswhengrowingup.TheywerearealtreatandI’veneverlostthetasteforthem.NowadaysIliketomakemyowntogetabetterbalanceofsweetnessandaciditytosuitadulttastesandtoaddsomespicetoworkagainstthenaturalblandnessofthebeans.
Oliveoil,forfrying100gpancettalardons1redchilli,finelysliced2garliccloves,peeledandfinelychopped1redonion,peeledandfinelydiced
1tbsplightmuscovadosugar
2tbspcidervinegar
Worcestershiresauce,totaste500mlsmoothtomatopassata2×400gtinsharicotbeans,drained(orcannelliniifyouprefer)Seasalt
andfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHEPOTATOCAKES500gpotatoes,peeledandboileduntiltender50gbutter,plusextrafor
frying4–5tbspplainflour,plusextrafordusting1.Placeanovenproofsaucepanorcasseroledishoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Oncehot,addthepancetta,alittlepepperandthechilliandfryuntilcookedthroughbutnotcrisping.Addthegarlicandcookfor2minutes,thenaddtheonionandcookoveralowheatuntilcompletelytender,about5minutes.Stirinhalfthesugar,thenaddthevinegar.Boilfor1minute,thenaddWorcestershiresaucetotaste.
2.Stirinthepassataandseasonwithagoodpinchofsaltandpepper,theremainingsugarandacoupleofshakesofWorcestershiresauce.Bringtoasimmerandcookfor4–5minutes.Addthebeansandcookforafurther5–10minutes,untilthesaucehasreducedandthickenedandthebeansarereallysoftandtender.
3.Meanwhile,makethepotatocakes.Mashtheboiledpotatoesuntilsmooth(oruseapotatoricer),addthebutterandmixwell.Add4tablespoonsoftheflouralongwithapinchofsaltandpepperandstirwell.Theaimistoformadough,soaddalittlemoreflourifnecessary.
4.Usingyourhands,rollpiecesofthedoughintoballsjustlargerthanagolfball.Placethemonalightlyflouredworksurfaceandflattenthemintolittlecakesabout1cmthick.Chillfor20minutes.
5.Placeaheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoliveoil.Whenhot,frythepotatocakesoneitherside(inbatchesifnecessary)untilgoldenandcrispingslightly.Whilecooking,seasonwithapinchofsaltandaddasmallknobofbuttertothepan.Drainthecakesonkitchenpapertoremoveanyexcessoil.
6.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningofthebeansasnecessary,addingalittlemorevinegarand/orWorcestershiresauce,aswellassaltandpepper.Servealongside
thewarmpotatocakes.
HOWTOFRYPOTATOESWITHBUTTERButtergivesalovelyrichfinishtofriedpotato,butitburnsmoreeasilythanoil.Forbestresults,startwithoilandthenaddbuttertowardstheendofyourcookingtime,usingaspoontobastethepotatoesasthebutterfrothsup.
HASHBROWNBAKEDEGGSWITHCANDIEDBACONSERVES6
TheAmericansalwaysknowagreatbreakfast,andtheylovetheirhashbrowns.Youcouldmaketheseinamuffintintocreateindividualservings,butIliketoserveitfamily-styleinonebigpan.Makesureyousqueezeoutallthemoisturefromthegratedpotatoorelsetheywillboilintheliquidinsteadofgettingthatlovelygoldencrust.ThecrispcandiedbaconcompletesmytributetoaStatesidebrunch.
850g–1kgwaxypotatoes,peeledandgrated1onion,peeledandgratedOliveoilCayennepepper
4knobsofbutter
6free-rangeeggs
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
FORTHECANDIEDBACON
1tspsoftbrownsugar
Knobofbutter
8rashersofsmokedstreakybacon
1.Preheattheovento200°C/Gas6.
2.Placethepotatoesandonioninacolanderandpresstosqueezeoutanyexcessmoisture.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,adrizzleofoliveoilandapinchofcayennepepper.Mixwell,thensqueezeagainusingyourhandstogetridofanylasttracesofmoisture.
3.Heatalargeovenprooffryingpanoveramediumheat.Pourinadashofoliveoil,thenaddthepotatomixtureandpressdowntocompactit.Break2knobsofbutterintosmallpiecesanddotthemaroundtheedgesofthepan.Continuecookinguntilthepotatoisgoldenandcrisponthebottom.
4.Placeaplateoverthefryingpan,quicklyinvertboth,thenslidethepotatomixturebackintothepansothattheuncookedsideisnowonthebottom.Breaktheremainingknobsofbutterintopieces,dotthemaroundtheedgesandcontinuecookingthepotatofor5minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.
5.Breaktheeggsontopofthehashbrown.Sprinklewithanotherpinchofcayennepepperandplaceintotheovenfor6–8minutes,oruntiltheeggwhitesarefirmbuttheyolksarestillrunny.
6.Meanwhile,tocookthebacon,heatafryingpanoveramediumheat.Addthesugar,seasonwithalittlepepperandaddthebutter.Oncebeginningtocaramelise,addthebaconandcookfor3–4minutesoneitherside,untilgoldenandcrisp.
7.Toserve,placethehashbrowneggsonawarmplateandtopwiththebacon.
BAKEDSPICYMEXICANEGGSSERVES6
Eggspoachedorbakedinafierytomatosauceisapopularbreakfastallaroundtheworld.There’safamousNorthAfricanversioncalledshakshuka,whichsometimeshasartichokesorbroadbeansinit,buthereI’mgivingitamoreLatinAmericanflavourbyaddingblackbeansandcookingitonabaseofcorntortillas.Gratedcheeseandchoppedcorianderfinishitoffnicely,butyoucouldalwaysgofurtherandaddslicedavocadoandsourcreamifyoulike.
Oliveoil,forfryingandgreasing
1redonion,peeledanddiced
1widegreenchilli,e.g.jalapeño,orordinarygreenchilliifunavailable,sliced2garliccloves,peeledandfinelysliced
1tspcuminseeds
1×400gtinchoppedtomatoes1×400gtincookedblackbeans,drainedandrinsed4–6corntortillas,halved
6free-rangeeggs
50gCheddarcheese,finelygrated2pinchesofchilliflakes,ortotasteSmallhandfulofcoriander,finelychoppedSeasaltandfreshlyground
blackpepper1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4,andheatthegrillaswellifyouhaveanovengrillfunction.
2.Placeafryingpanoveramediumheatandaddaglugofoliveoil.Addtheonion,chilliandgarlicwithapinchofsaltandpepperandsautéuntiltenderanddarkgolden,about6minutes.Addthecuminandcookuntilaromatic.Stirinthetomatoesandgentlysimmerfor5minutes.Addthebeans,heatthroughfor2minutes,thensetaside.
3.Greaseabakingdishwithalittleoilandsprinklesomeseasoninginthebottomofit.Linethedishwiththetortillas,overlappingthemandraisingthemslightlyabovetheedgeofthedish.Pourinthetomatomixture,thenmake6littlewellsinit.
4.Breakaneggintoacup,thenpouritintoawellsothattheyolksitsneatlyinthemiddle.Repeatwiththeremainingeggs.Sprinkleoverthecheeseandchilliflakesandseasonwithsaltandpepper.
5.Placethedishonashelftwo-thirdsofthewayuptheovensothatthegrill(ifon)cancolourthecheese.Bakefor8–10minutes,oruntiltheeggwhitesarecookedthrough,theyolksrunnyandthecheesemeltedandgolden.Ifyoudon’thaveanovengrill,bakeforafurther3–4minutes.
6.Scatterwiththecorianderbeforeserving.
THERE’SAGOODREASONWHYSOUPSANDSANDWICHESHAVEBECOMETHESTAPLEOFAMILLIONLUNCHES.
Easytomakeandquicktoeat,theyareagreatwayofcombiningdifferentflavoursandtexturesinasinglehit.Theycanalsobeasgrandorassimpleastheoccasionoryourbudgetdemands,fromahumblecheesesandwichwithasplodgeofchutneytoalobsterbisque.Madewithoutloveorattention,though,theycanalsobeincrediblydreary,asanyofficeworkerwillattest.There’snothingquitesodepressingasafewlimplettuceleavesclampedbetweenslicesofcheapbreadorathinwaterysoupinwhichyou’dstruggletoidentifyasingleingredient.
Whenyouarecookingathome,ofcourse,thatneedneverbeanissueandIdefyanyonetofindanythinghumdrumaboutthesoups,breadsandsandwichesI’veputtogetherhere.FromWelshrarebittogazpacho,there’ssomethingtokeepeveryoneinthefamilyhappy.
Asalways,thekeytosuccessliesinthequalityofingredientsyouuse,solet’sstartwithbread.There’snopointinpilingyourdeliciousgriddledcourgettes,ricottaandmintontoasliceofspongyslicedwhite.Evenachipbuttydeservesagood-qualitywhitebread.WhenIwasdoingmy‘stage’withGuySavoyinParis,oneofmyfirstjobswasmakingtheloavesandrolls.EverynightI’dturnoutbeautifulwhite,brown,sourdoughandcheesebreads,andsincethenI’veaddedotherclassicssuchastheItalianfocacciaandciabattaandMiddleEasternflatbreadstomyrepertoire.Flatbreadsareparticularlyusefulasyoudon’thavetowaitforthemtorisesothey’reveryquicktomakeandwillturnatubofshop-boughthoumousortzatzikiintoadecentlunch.
I’mnotnaïveaboutexpectingyoualltostartbakingyourownbread–althoughyoumusttrymyinstantBeerBread,whichcanbeonthetablewithin40minutes–butitisworthbuyingthebestyoucanandsupportingtheartisanbakeriesthatarethankfullyhavingarenaissance.Notonlyishandcraftedbreadhealthierforyou,withfeweradditivesandlesssugarandsalt,butitalsotastessomuchbetter.GenerallyIfindsourdoughthemostversatile.It’smadefromastarterratherthancommercialyeastsohasamorecomplexflavourand,asthenamesuggests,aslightlysourtangthatworksreallywellwithcheesesandvegetables.It’smoreexpensivetobuy,butIpromiseyou’llneverwasteanybecauseitcanstillbeusedevenwhenseveraldaysold.Onthefirstdayit’sidealforsandwiches,thenextcoupleofdaysitcanbetoastedorusedforbruschetta,andbydayfourit’sperfectformakingcroutonsoraddingtogazpacho.
Whichleadsusontosoups.Ialwaysthinkoftheseasreallyversatileone-potwonders.Agreatwayofusingupleftovervegetables,youcantakethemtoanylevelyoulike,addingthingslikebacon,musselsandclamsforflavour,ornoodles,pastaandpotatoesforbulk.Gazpachoreliesontomatoesforitsliquidbutmostsoupsuseastockbase.Stockcubesorjustwaterareoptionshere,butit’sreallynothardtomakeyourownstock,whichwillgiveanysouparealboost.
VEGETABLESTOCK
Tomakeasimplevegetablestock,justcoverchoppedonions,carrots,celeryandahalvedheadofgarlicwithwater,season,andsimmergentlyfor20minutes.Thenaddaglassofwine,asmallbundleofherbs–parsley,thymeandtarragon,say–andleavetocool,ideallyovernight.Thenstrainitbeforeusing.Itwillkeepinthefridgeforfivedaysorfreezeforuptosixmonths.
CHICKENSTOCKStockmadewithchickenhasabitmoreoomphtoit,butstilllendsitselfequallytovegetablesoupsandmeatyones.Intherestaurantswe’llmaketwotypesofchickenstock:awhiteonewithuncookedcarcassesfordelicatebrothsandrisottosandabrownonewithbrownedvegetables,roastedbonesandtomatopuréeforheartystewsandchunkysoups.That’sprobablymoretroublethanyou’llwanttogowhencookingforthefamily.Thebest
troublethanyou’llwanttogowhencookingforthefamily.Thebestcompromiseis,afteraroastdinner,toputthebonesandanymeatstillclingingtotheminalargepotwithahalvedonion,ahalvedheadofgarlicandroughlychoppedcarrots,leeksandabunchofthymeorparsley.Throwinsomepeppercornsandjustcoveritwithcoldwater,thenbringitslowlytoasimmerandcookforacoupleofhours.Ifyouwantaclearstock,you’llneedtoskimthesurfaceoffattyresidueregularlyasitcooks,butagainit’snotsomethingtoworryabouttoomuch.Itwillstilltastegreat.Youcankeepstockinthefridgeforfivedaysorfreezeforuptosixmonths.
CREAMYTOMATOSOUPWITHSUNDRIEDTOMATOPESTO
GAZPACHO
SPICYMEXICANSOUP
HOME-MADETORTILLACHIPSWITHPICODEGALLODIP
SMOKYBACON,SWEETCORNANDPOTATOSOUP
AMERICAN-STYLECHEESEBISCUITS
STEAMEDMUSSELSWITHCHERRYTOMATOESANDPANCETTA
SAFFRONFLATBREADS
SPICYCLAMNOODLESOUP
WELSHRAREBIT
AVOCADOANDBLACKSESAMESPRINKLEONSOURDOUGH
PEAR,GOAT’SCHEESEANDWALNUTTARTINE
PRAWNTOSTADA
COURGETTEANDRICOTTABRUSCHETTE
PANBAGNAT
PLOUGHMAN’SSALAD
BEERBREAD
CHIPBUTTY
CREAMYTOMATOSOUPWITHSUNDRIEDTOMATOPESTOSERVES4
Fewthingsareasnostalgicasawarmingbowlofcreamoftomatosoup,but,likemostfoodsfromchildhood,itcanbeeasilyimprovedbyemployingafewcheffytricks.Roastingthetomatoesfirstwithgarlic,onionandcayennepepperreallyhelpstointensifytheirflavourandthecharrededgesgivealovelysmokyqualitytothefinishedsoup.Thenthesundriedtomatopestoattheendisanotherbigheartyflavourbooster.ServewithcrustybreadorWelshRarebit.
2redonions,peeledandsliced
2garliccloves,peeledandfinelysliced
½–1tspcayennepepper,totasteOliveoil,fordrizzling
1.5kgripetomatoes,coredandhalved
1tspcastersugar
1tspagedbalsamicvinegar1litrevegetableorchickenstock100mldoublecream
SeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHESUNDRIEDTOMATOPESTO
2–3tbsppinenuts75gsundriedtomatoes,drained,oilreservedandfinelychopped50g
Parmesancheese,gratedOliveoil1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.
2.Placearoastingtrayonthehoboveramedium-highheat.Addtheonions,garlicandcayennepepper,drizzlewithenougholiveoiltocoat,andcookfor3–4minutes.Addthetomatoescutsidedown,seasonwithapinchofsalt,pepperandthesugar,drizzleoverthebalsamicvinegarandcookoverahighheatfor3–4minutes,untilthetomatoesbegintocaramelise.Stirwell,thentransfertotheovenfor20–25minutes.
3.Tomakethepesto,startbytoastingthepinenutsinadryfryingpanuntilgolden.Putthesundriedtomatoesintoamortarandpoundwithapestleuntilcompletelybrokendown.Seasonwithatouchofsalt,addthepinenutsandcontinuetopounduntilyoureachapestoconsistency.StirintheParmesan,thenaddtheoliveoilandenoughofthesundriedtomatooiltobringthepestotoaspooningconsistency(itshouldprovideabout3–4tablespoons).
4.Placethetrayofroastedtomatoesonthehoboveramediumheatandpourinthestock.Bringtotheboil,thensimmerfor4–5minutes.Addthecream,stirwellandcontinuetosimmerfor2–3minutes.
5.Usingastickblender,blendthesoupuntilalmostsmoothbutstillwithacoupleofchunkybits(useapotatomasherforamorerustictexture.Servewarmwithdollopsofpestoontop.
HOWTOENHANCETHEFLAVOUROFTOMATOESAddingjustapinchofsugartocookedtomatodishesorpastasauces
Addingjustapinchofsugartocookedtomatodishesorpastasauceshelpstobringoutthetomatoes’naturalsweetness,especiallywhenthetomatoesaren’tasripeastheymightbe.
GAZPACHOSERVES4
ThisrefreshingcoldSpanishsouphasgottobetheeasiestintheworldtomakeandisperfectservedalfrescoonahotsummer’sday–followmyniftytipbelowandyoucaneventakeitonapicnic!There’snocookinginvolvedandtheonlytime-consumingthingiswaitingforittochill.Thesecretistogettherightbalanceofoliveoil,sherryvinegarandseasoning,sodotasteasyougoalongandremember,flavoursaremoremutedwhenchilled.
1cucumber,peeledandchopped1redpepper,deseededandchopped1greenpepper,deseededandchopped1kgripeplumtomatoes,coredandchopped2garliccloves,peeledandcrushed2springonions,trimmedandfinelychopped
75gstalecrustywhitebread,chopped
2–2½tbspsherryvinegar,ortotasteSmallbunchofbasilExtravirginoliveoilSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHE
TOASTS(OPTIONAL)
8thinslicesofcountry-stylewhitebread
Oliveoil,forbrushing1.Placethecucumber,peppers,tomatoes,garlicandspringonionsinalargebowl.Addthebread,3–4basilleavesandseasonwellwithsaltandpepper.Addthesherryvinegarandacoupleoftablespoonsofoliveoilandmixtogetherwithyourhands,pressingdowntosqueezeoutthejuices.Coverandchill.Leavetomarinateforatleast30minsorovernight.
2.Putthevegetablemixtureintoablenderandwhizuntilsmooth.Checktheconsistency.Ifitisstillratherthickandnotveryrich,addanotherglugortwoofoliveoiluntilyoureachaconsistencyyoulike.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Youmightneedalittlemorevinegar.Coverandchillagain,until
reallycoldandyou’rereadytoserve.(Atthispoint,youcanfreezesomeinice-cubetrays,assuggestedinthetipbelow).
3.Meanwhile,makethetoasts,ifusing.Brushtheslicesofbreadgenerouslywitholiveoil.Placealargegriddlepanoveramediumheat.Oncehot,addthebreadandtoastoneithersideuntilgoldenandcrunchy.Drainonkitchenpaper,thenseasonwithalittlesaltandpepper.
4.Toserve,stirthegazpachoandtasteagainastheseasoningmayhavechangedasthesoupisnowverycold.Adjustasnecessary,thenserveicecoldwithgazpachoicecubes,sprinkledwiththerestofthebasil,chopped,anextradrizzleofoliveoilandthetoastsalongside,ifusing.
HOWTOKEEPGAZPACHOCHILLEDAclevertricktomakesuregazpacho–oranycoldsoup–stayswellchilledistofreezesmallamountsinanicecubetrayandaddthesetothesoupjustbeforeserving(or,ifyou’regoingtoapicnic,justbeforesettingout).Thesoupwillbedeliciouslychilledwithoutbeingwatereddownasitwouldbyordinaryicecubes.
SPICYMEXICANSOUPSERVES4
Chilliescomeinallshapes,sizesandstrengthsandareusedthroughouttheworld,butifthere’sonecountrythathasturnedcookingthemintoanartform,it’sMexico.It’snotallaboutblowingyourheadoffwiththeirheat:theMexicansaremastersatbuildinglayeruponlayerofflavour.Thechipotleisasmokedanddriedjalapeñochilli,whichlendsseriousheattothisrusticsoup.Greatservedwithpicodegallodipandmyhome-madetortillachips.
Oliveoil,forfrying1redonion,peeledanddiced2tspcuminseeds,dry-toasted
1tspdriedoregano
2garliccloves,peeledandchopped2–4driedchipotlechillies,finelychopped,or1tbspchipotlechillipaste,totaste1tbsptomatopurée1×400gtinchoppedtomatoes
1×400gtincookedkidneybeans,drainedandrinsed
1tspsugar
500–750mlvegetableorchickenstock100gLancashirecheese,crumbled1ripeavocado,peeledandchopped½bunchofcoriander,roughlychoppedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Placealargeheavy-basedsautépanorhob-proofcasseroledishoveramediumheatandaddadashofoliveoil.Oncehot,frytheonionwithapinchofsaltandpepperuntilsoftened.Addthecuminseedsandoreganoandcookforafurther2minutes,oruntiltheseedsbecomearomatic.
2.Addthegarlicanddriedchillies(ifusing),cookfor2minutes,thenaddthetomatopurée.(Ifusingchipotlepaste,additwhenyouaddthepurée.)Stirovertheheatforaminuteortwo,thenaddthetomatoesandkidneybeansalongwiththesugar.Stirandbringtoasimmer,thenadd500mlofthestock.Bringtothe
boil,reducetheheatandgentlysimmerfor10–15minutes,untilthickenedslightlyandflavoursome.Addalittleextrastockifitthickenstoomuch.
3.Pourthesoupintowarmedservingbowlsandsprinklewiththecheese,avocadoandcoriander.
HOWTOMAXIMISEHEATFROMCHILLIESThelongerdriedchilliesarecooked,thehottertheywillbecome,astheyswellandreleasetheirheat.TheMexicansliketotemperthiswithanaturalfireblanketofavocadoandacreamyhardcheesesimilartoLancashire.
HOME-MADETORTILLACHIPSWITHPICODEGALLODIPSERVES4
PicodegalloisaMexicansalsamadeoftomato,onionandchilli.Itistraditionallymadewiththeredserranochilli,butIprefertheeasier-to-findgreenjalapeño.Remember,thehottestpartofanychilliisthemembranethatholdstheseeds,soscrapethisoutbeforechoppingifyouaresensitivetoheat.ThisisdeliciousalongsidetheSpicyMexicanSoup.
6largewheattortillawraps
Oliveoil,forbrushingSmokedpaprikaSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHEPICODEGALLODIP
3ripetomatoes,finelydiced½redonion,peeledandfinelydiced1–2freshjalapeñochillies,or1–2tbspbottledjalapeñosinbrine,choppedSmallbunchofcoriander,finelychoppedJuiceof½lime1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Meanwhile,makethedip.Mixthetomatoesandoniontogetherinabowlandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Addthechillies,corianderandlimejuiceandmixwell.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary,thenleavetostandfor15minutes.
2.Brushthetortillawrapswitholiveoilonbothsides,sprinkleeachsidewithsmokedpaprikaandapinchofsalt,thensliceintotriangles.Placeononeormorebakingsheetsinasinglelayerandbakefor3–4minutes,untilgoldenandcrisp.Setasidetocool.
3.Servethedipwiththetortillachipsalongside.
HOWTOHANDLECHILLIESWhenyou’vebeenchoppingchillies,rubyourhandswitholiveoilbeforewashingthem.Theoilhelpsdissolvethecapsaicin,thesourceofthechilli’sheat,whichismoresolubleinoilthaninwater,anditwillthenrinseawayeasily.
SMOKYBACON,SWEETCORNANDPOTATOSOUPSERVES4–6
Youcanmakeatastyandnourishingsoupoutofthehumblestingredients,asthissweetcornchowdershows.Iliketomakeitwithacombinationofcreamedcornandwholekernelssoithasgooddepthofflavourbutkeepsitschunkytexture.Youcanalwayspuréeitifyouprefer,addingthebitsofbaconattheend.ServewithmyAmerican-styleCheeseBiscuitstomakeitamealinitsownright.
Oliveoil,forfrying1onion,peeledanddiced4rashersofsmokedstreakybacon,chopped
intosmallpieces
2bayleaves
2potatoes,peeledanddicedinto1cmcubes1leek,trimmedandfinelychopped1×375gtincreamedcorn1×200gtinsweetcorn,drained750mlchickenorvegetablestock500mlwholemilk
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Placealargesaucepanorhob-proofcasseroledishoveramediumheat.Addadashofoilandfrytheonionuntilsoftened.Addthebaconandcontinuetocookuntillightlycoloured.Stirinthebayleaves.
2.Addthepotatoesandleekandcookfor5–7minutes,untiltheleekissoft.
3.Stirinthecreamedcornandsweetcorn,thenpourinthestockandmilk.Bringtoagentlesimmerandcookfor15minutes,oruntilthepotatoesarecompletelysoftandtheflavourwelldeveloped.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Serveinwarmbowls.
STEAMEDMUSSELSWITHCHERRYTOMATOESANDPANCETTASERVES4Notreallyasoupassuch,butstillaperfectone-bowlmeal.YoucanaddsomanytwiststotheclassicFrenchmoulesmarinière.Traditionallyit’smadewithwhitewine,butI’veseenitwithGuinness,cider...younameit.I’musingsherryhere,whichgivesitmoreofaSpanishfeel.Throwinsomebacon,afewtomatoes,somefreshoregano,andyou’vegotadeliciouslightlunchorservewithSaffronFlatBreadsforamoresubstantialmeal.
Oliveoil,forfrying100gpancetta,choppedintolardonsorchunks1redchilli,sliced2garliccloves,peeledandbashed
300gcherrytomatoes
1.5kgmussels,scrubbedclean,beardsremoved(discardanythatdonotshuttightwhentapped)250mldrysherrySmallhandfuloforegano,finelychopped1.Placealargeheavy-basedcasseroledishorsaucepanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Oncehot,frythepancettauntilcookedthroughandcrisping.
2.Addthechilliandgarlicandcookforafurther2minutes.Addthetomatoesandcookfor3–4minutes,oruntiltheyarewarmedthroughandbeginningtocollapseslightlyandblister.
3.Tipinthemusselsandoregano.Addthesherry,coverwithalidandcookfor4–5minutes,oruntilallthemusselshaveopened.Discardanythatremainshut.
4.Transfertoaservingbowlandserveimmediately.
USINGMUSSELSTherulewhencookingmusselsistodiscardanythataren’ttightlyshutbeforecookingandthentothrowoutanythatdon’topenduringcooking.
SAFFRONFLATBREADSSERVES4
I’veincludedthesesimpleflatbreadstogowiththeSpanish-inspiredSteamedMusselswithCherryTomatoesandPancettabecausesaffronisoneofSpain’smostfamouscropsandgoeswellwithsherry.Buttruthbetold,theymakeagreatlunchintheirownrightwithmaybeatubofhoumousortzatziki.Astheirnamesuggests,youdon’tneedtowaitforthedoughtorise,whichmeansthatflatbreadsareadoddletomake.
2generouspinchesofsaffronstrands
250gplainflour,plusextrafordusting
3tbspoliveoil
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1.Putthesaffroninabowlandaddjustenoughhotwatertocoverit.Leavetosoakfor10minutes.
2.Placetheflourinamixingbowlwiththeoliveoilandacoupleofpinchesofsaltandpepper.Pourinthesaffronanditssoakingliquid,addanother100mlofwarmwaterandmixthoroughlyuntilyouhavealump-freedough.Ifthemixtureistoosticky,addalittlemoreflour;ifit’stoodry,addatinydropmorewarmwater.
3.Kneadthedoughfor2–3minutesonaflouredworksurfaceuntilsmoothandelastic.Placeinacleanbowl,coverandleavetorestatroomtemperaturefor15–20minutes.
4.Whenready,dividethedoughinto4equalpieces.Placeonaflouredworksurfaceanduseaflouredrollingpintorolleachpieceintoacircleabout2–3mmthick.
5.Placealarge,non-stick,heavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheat.Whenhot,cooktheflatbreadsoneatatimefor1–2minutesoneitherside,untilgolden.Keepwarmwhilstyoucooktheremainingflatbreads.Servewarm,cut
intopieces.
AVOCADOANDBLACKSESAMESPRINKLEONSOURDOUGHSERVES4
Itdoesn’ttakemuchtoturnanavocadointoasimplemeal.AsatreatwhenIwasyoungIwouldoccasionallyhavehalfanavocadowithitshollowfilledwithWorcestershiresauce.Ithoughtthatwastheheightofsophistication,butavocadowithchilliandsesameseedsisevenbetter.It’sgreatasahealthy,lightbreakfastoryoucouldtopitoffwithasardinefilletifyouwantedtomakethisevenmoresubstantial.
4largeslicesofsourdoughbread
Zestandjuiceof1lemon2–4pinchesofchilliflakes,ortotaste1tbspblacksesameseeds
2ripeavocados
SeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperOliveoil1.Seasonthebreadwithsaltandpepperanddrizzlewithalittleoil.Toastorgriddlethebreaduntilgoldenbrown.
2.Meanwhile,mixtogetherthelemonzest,chilliflakesandsesameseedswithapinchofsaltandpepper.
3.Quartertheavocados,removingthestoneandpeelingofftheskin.Sliceeachquarterlengthways,leavingtheslicesjoinedatthetop.Fanouteachquarterandplace2onapieceoftoast,pushingdowntomakethemstick.
4.Squeezealittlelemonjuiceovertheavocado,thensprinklewiththesesameseedmixture.Eatimmediatelywhilestillwarm.
HOWTOSTONEANAVOCADOCuttheavocadoinhalflengthwaysandthenplacethehalfwiththestonestillattachedonaworksurface.Chopintothestonewithasharpknifeandyoushouldbeabletoeaseitout.
PEAR,GOAT’SCHEESEANDWALNUTTARTINESERVES4
IspentthreeyearsworkinginParisanditopenedmyeyestohowexcitinganopensandwichcouldbe.Whilefriendsbackhomeweretuckingintojamsandwichesfortheirtea,Iwasrevellinginwonderfultartineslikethis.Don’teventhinkofspoilingyourlovelygoat’scheeseorripepearswithcheapbread.NowisthetimetosplashoutonalovelysourdoughorcrustyFrenchbaguette.ThislovelytartineisaperfectaccompanimenttomyTunaNiçoiseSalad.
1baguetteorsmallsourdoughloaf
Oliveoil,forgriddling2pears,e.g.Williams,quartered,coredandthinlysliced150gFrench
goat’scheese,e.g.crottin,softorripe,cutintothesamenumberofslicesasthepearsFreshlygroundblackpepper4tbspwalnuts,roughlychoppedorcrumbled1.Preheatthegrillonitshighestsetting.
2.Ifusingabaguette,sliceitinhalfacrossthemiddleandtrimofftheveryends.Sliceeachhalfinto4piecestogive8intotal.Ifusingasourdoughloaf,cutitinto8slicesabout2cmthick.
3.Placeagriddlepanoverahighheat.Whenhot,drizzlewithalittleoilandlowertheheat.Addthebreadandtoastoneithersideuntillightlycrispandgolden.
4.Transferthetoaststoabakingsheet.Arrangethepearandcheeseslicesalternatelyoneachone.Seasonwithpepperandsprinklewiththewalnuts.Grillfor1–2minutes,untilthecheesehasmelted.Serveimmediately.
PRAWNTOSTADASERVES4Theseareallaboutthecontrastoftextures:succulentprawnsandsoft,ripeavocadomixedwithcrispradishesandservedonalovelycrunchytortillabase.InMexico,thetortillasarenormallydeepfriedinoil,butIfindtoastingtheminadrypanworksjustaswellandmakesthemmuchhealthier.Youcanalsomakethetostadasintheoven.Brushthemwithalittleoil,ifyoulike,andbakethemfor10–15minutesat180°C/Gas4.
400grawkingprawns,peeledanddeveined2garliccloves,peeledandfinelysliced1tspchilliflakes,ortotasteOliveoil
1–2ripeavocados,dependingonsize,peeled,stonedanddiced4springonions,trimmedandfinelychopped1redchilli,seededandfinelysliced8–12radishes,trimmedandquartered8–12cherrytomatoes,halved
Juiceof1lime2babygemlettuces,shreddedSmallbunchofcoriander,chopped
4cornflourtortillas
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Puttheprawns,garlicandchilliflakesintoabowlwithapinchofsaltandpepperandalittledrizzleofoliveoil.Mixwell,thensetaside.
2.Puttheavocados,springonions,chilli,radishesandtomatoesintoanotherbowlandmixtogether.Tasteandseasonwithsalt,pepperandhalfthelimejuice.Mixwell,stirinthelettuce,thenthecorianderandsetaside.
3.Heatadashofoilinaheavy-basedfryingpan.Extracttheprawnsfromtheirmarinadeandfrythemforabout2minutesoneachside,untiljustcookedthrough.Sprinklewiththeremaininglimejuiceandstir.
4.Toastthetortillasinadrypanuntilnicelycolouredandbeginningtocrispup.
5.Dividethesaladequallybetweenthetoastedtortillas,topwiththecookedprawnsandserve.
HOWTOPREPAREPRAWNS
HOWTOPREPAREPRAWNSFirst,twistoffthehead,thenpeeloffalltheshellandpulloffthetail.Withthetipofasharpknife,scoretheprawnalongthebackandliftouttheblackvein.Rinsethepreparedprawnsbeforeusing.
COURGETTEANDRICOTTABRUSCHETTESERVES4
Aneasyvegetarianlunchorstarterforasummerdinnerparty:freshlygriddledcourgettesontopofcreamyricottacheeseandcrunchyciabattatoast.Utterlysimplebututterlydelicious.
2courgettes,cutintodiagonalslices5mmthickOliveoil,fordrizzling
8thickslicesofciabattabread
4mintsprigs,leavesonly200gricottacheeseSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Placethecourgettesinabowl
withaglugofoliveoilandacoupleofpinchesofsaltandpepperandtosstocoat.
2.Heatagriddlepanuntilreallyhot,addthecourgetteslicesinasinglelayer(they’llneedtobedoneinbatches)andcookuntilgoldenandstripedonbothsides.Transfertoaplateandsetaside.
3.Drizzlealittleoliveoiloneithersideofthebreadslices,andgriddleuntilgoldenandtoastedonbothsides.
4.Meanwhile,chopthemintleavesandplaceinabowlwiththericotta(reservingalittletouseasagarnish)andapinchofsaltandpepper.Mixwell,thentasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.
5.Spreadthetoastwiththericottamixture,topwithslicesofcourgetteandgarnishwithmintleaves.Serveimmediately.
USINGRICOTTARicottaisagreatingredienttokeepinthefridgeasitworksforbothsavouryandsweetdishes.Trymixingitwithcookedspinachandnutmegandspreadingitoverpuffpastryforasimplepizza,oraddsugarandlemonzestandspoonitoverraspberriesforaquickdessert.
PANBAGNATSERVES4–6
ThisProvençalclassic–essentiallyasaladeNiçoiseinasandwich–istheFrenchequivalentofourCornishpasty,supposedlyahandywayforlabourerstotransportahealthylunch.Myversionisn’tentirelyauthentic.I’veaddedmozzarella,whichnoself-respectingFrenchmanwoulddo,andhavemadeitasonegiantsandwich,butwhenyoucutitopenyou’llseethatitcontainsallthatisgoodaboutsummer.
2courgettes,thinlyslicedOliveoil1largeroundwhiterusticloaf,e.g.paindecampagneorsourdough12
slicesofham,e.g.Parmaham2roastedredpeppers(bottledpeppers,drained,arefine)2ballsofbuffalomozzarella,drainedandtornintobite-sizedpieces200gsunblushorsundriedtomatoes,drainedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHETAPENADE
200gpittedblackolives,finelychopped1garlicclove,peeledandcrushed1tbspcapers,drainedandchopped4anchovyfillets,chopped
2tspredwinevinegar
1tbspextravirginoliveoil
1.Firstmakethetapenade.Puttheolives,garlic,capers,anchovies,oliveoilandvinegarinablenderandmixwell.(Ifmakingthisbyhandratherthaninafoodprocessor,youcancombineeverythinginamortar.)Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Setaside.
2.Meanwhile,placeagriddlepanoverahighheat.Oncehot,tossthecourgetteslicesinalittleoliveoil,saltandpepperandgriddlethemoneithersideuntilgoldenandcharred.Setasidetocoolslightly.
3.Slicea‘lid’offtheloafabout4cmfromthetop.Scoopoutthedoughymiddleofthebread,leavinga2.5cmshell.(Thebreadremovedcanbeturnedintocrumbsandfrozenforlateruse.)Spreadtheinsideoftheloafwiththetapenade.Storeanyextratapenadeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforuptoaweek.
4.LinetheinsidesoftheloafwiththeslicesofParmahamoverlappingthemandleavinganinchorsooverhangingatthetop.Arrangetheremainingingredientsinsidethepreparedshell,usingaquarterofthematatime,sothatyouhave4layersofeach:forexample,useaquarterofthepeppers,followedbyaquarterofthemozzarellaandsoonuntilyoureachthetopoftheloaf.FoldtheoverhangingedgesofParmahambacktothetopofthefillingtoencloseit.Placethelidfirmlyontopandwraptightlyinclingfilm.Chillfor2hours,orovernightifnotusingstraightaway.
5.Toserve,unwraptheloafandsliceintowedgesorthickslices.
PLOUGHMAN’SSALADSERVES4
Theploughman’shasbeenamainstayofpubmenussincetheFifties–quiterightlybecauseitwasaninstantclassicthemomentitwasdreamtupbytheCheeseMarketingBoard.Giventhechoiceofham,CheddarorStiltonIcannevermakeupmymind,soIthoughtwhynotcombineallthreeandtopitoffwithmyinstantBeerBreadloaves.
100gwatercress,excessstalkscutoff1romainelettuce,roughlysliced1Englisheatingapple,quartered,coredandcutintosmallchunks3celerysticks,trimmedandfinelysliced8–10radishes,trimmedandsliced6–8slicesofcookedham,tornintopieces100gbest-qualityCheddarcheese,e.g.Montgomery,cutintostripswithavegetablepeeler100gbest-qualityStilton,e.g.ColstonBasset,cutintosmallcubesFORTHEQUICKPICKLEDONION
1redonion,peeledandverythinlyslicedintorings½tbspgoldencastersugar
4cloves
2–3tbspredwinevinegarPinchofseasaltFORTHEDRESSING
½–1tspEnglishmustard,totaste
1tsprunnyhoney
2–3tbspwhitewinevinegar
4tbspoliveoil
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Firstmakethepickledonion.Puttheonionintoabowlandsprinklewiththesugar,cloves,vinegarandapinchofsalt.Tosswelltomix,placeasaucerorlayerofcling
filmovertheonionsandweighdownwithacanofjar.Leavewhileyoupreparethesalad,orforuptoanhour.
2.Tomakethedressing,putthemustard,honey,vinegarandoilintoabowl,addapinchofsaltandpepperandstirtocombine.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Setaside.
3.Placethewatercress,lettuce,apple,celeryandradishesinabowlandmixtogether.Mixthedressingagain,pouritoverthesaladandtosstoensureeverythingislightlycoated.
4.Dotpiecesofthehamandcheesesoverthetop.Drainthepickledonionanddotthisovertoo.Tosslightlyandserve.
HOWTOLIGHTENDRESSINGSIfyoufindyourdressingisabitheavy(whichcansometimesbethecasewitholiveoilvinaigrettes),addsomegroundnutoiloratouchofwatertoloosen,orlightenit.
BEERBREADMAKES8MINILOAVES
Peopledon’tbelievemewhenIsayyoucanhavehome-madebreadonthetablewithin40minutes,buthere’stheproof.TheseminiloavesareakindofEnglishtakeonIrishsodabread,usingthefizzinessofthebeerastheraisingagent.Thebatterwillappearunusuallyrunnyforabreadmixbutdon’tworry,they’llcomeoutfine.Morethanthat,they’llbedelicious.TrythemwithmyPloughman’sSalad.
Butter,forgreasing175gself-raisingflour,plusextrafordusting
75gwholemealself-raisingflour
½tbspflakedseasalt,e.g.Maldon
250mlbeerorlager
1–2tbspmilk1.Preheattheovento180°/Gas4.Grease8miniloaftins(4.5×7.5×3cm),thendustwithflourandshakeoutanyexcess.
2.Siftthefloursintoamixingbowlandaddthesalt.Pourinthebeer,mixingasyoudoso,untilthemixtureisfreeoflumps.Thebatterwillappearunusuallyrunnyforabreadmix.
3.Dividethebatterbetweenthepreparedtins,fillingthemthree-quartersfull,placeonabakingsheetandbakefor30minutes.Brushthetopswithalittlemilkandalightdustingofflour(tohelpthetopscolournicely)andbakeforafurther5minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothemiddleoftheloafcomesoutclean,andthebottomsoundshollowwhentapped.
4.Removetheloavesfromthetinsandcoolonawirerack.Theycanbeeatenwarmorcold,andwillkeepforacoupleofdaysinanairtightcontainer.
CHIPBUTTYSERVES4
Ah,thistakesmeback.Iusedtolovechipbutties–allthosedifferent-sizedchipssmotheredwithtomatoketchupandsandwichedbetweentwoslicesofsquishywhitebread.TheonlyconcessionI’vemadetomodernityistoroastthechipsinsteadofdeep-fryingthem,andtoseasonthemwithsmokedpaprika.Ithinkevenmynine-year-oldselfwouldhaveapproved.
Groundnutoil,forroasting750gpotatoes,e.g.Desirée,peeled1tspsmokedpaprika
8slicesofcrustywhitebread
Butter(optional)Tomatoketchup(optional)Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.
Preheattheovento220°C/Gas7.Oilabakingtray.2.Chopthepotatoesintobatons1cmthick.Blanchinboilingsaltedwaterfor3–4minutes,thendrainandplaceonthepreparedtrayinasinglelayer.
3.Drizzlethepotatoeswithoilandtosstocoatevenly.Seasonwiththesmokedpaprikaandsomesaltandpepper.Bakefor15–20minutes,turningnowandagaintoensureevencooking,untilgoldenandcrisp.
4.Spreadtheslicesofbreadwithbutter,orrubthemintheremnantsofpaprikaoilinthebakingtray.Sandwichthechipsinsidebread,addingketchupifyouwish,thensliceinhalfandserveimmediately.
HOWTOCHOOSEPOTATOESPotatoescomeinthreetypes:floury,waxyandall-rounders.FlourypotatoessuchasKingEdwardsarebestformashing,fryingandroasting.WaxypotatoeslikeCharlottesareperfectforboilingandinsalads.Andfinallythereareall-rounderssuchasDesirée,whichmakegreatovenchips.
WHENIFIRSTSTARTEDCOOKING,ALLTHEHIGH-ENDRESTAURANTSSERVEDRICH,FRENCHFOODWITHLOTSOFHEAVYSAUCESFULLOFCREAMANDBUTTER.
You’dseecustomerscomeinforfour-orfive-courselunchesandwonderhowonearththeyweregoingtostayawaketodoanafternoon’swork.Luckilythefashionsincethenhasbeentomakedishesmuchlighterandfresherbyusinglotsofrawingredients,herbsandcitrusflavours.That’ssomethingwetrytosticktoathometoo.ApartfromSundays,whenwe’llmakeitthemainmealoftheday,lunchisn’tthetimetogooverboard.Youwantsomethingtastyandsatisfyingthatwillgiveyouenergywithout
wantsomethingtastyandsatisfyingthatwillgiveyouenergywithoutweighingyoudown.
Peoplesometimestalkdisparaginglyabout‘ladieswholunch’–thoseglamorous,skinny-as-a-beanpolewomenwhopushastarter-sizeportionoffoodaroundtheirplatesandbarelytouchathing.Ithinkit’ssadwhensomeoneclearlydoesn’thaveanappetiteforgoodfood,butIhavetoadmitIthinkthey’vegottherightideawhenitcomestowhattheyareordering:lotsofsalads,lotsofvegetables,lotsofsimplygrilledfishorwhitemeat.That’sthekindofthingIliketomakeforlunchathometoo.AlthoughIdaresaymyportionsizesarebiggerthantheirs.
It’stakentheBritishalongtimetogetthehangofsalads.IrememberwhenImademyfirstseriesofKitchenNightmaresIhadasaladinonerestaurantwheretheyservedupahugebowllayeredwithiceberglettuce,unripetomatoes,thicklycutcucumberandacarpetofcressontop.Noseasoning,nodressing,nonothing.Whydidn’titsurprisemewhenIheardthecheflaterrefertosaladas‘rabbitfood’?Butwithabitofimagination,saladscanbewonderfulthings,especiallywhenyoutakeininfluencesfromaroundtheworldandpairunusualingredientstogether.We’reallfamiliarnowadayswithclassiccombinationslikeCaesarsaladorSaladeNiçoise,butfetaandwatermelon,orcarrot,cuminandorangeworkjustaswelltogether.OryoucantakethingsinaSouthAmericandirectionwithrawmackerelcevichewithfennelandgrapefruit.Japanisalsoagreatsourceofinspiration.TheJapanesehavealwaysfavouredlight,healthyfoodsandstickyteriyakisalmonwithasimplesobanoodlesaladmakesanideallunch.Herearesomesimpletipsforaperfectlightlunch.
ACLASSICVINAIGRETTEAclassicvinaigretteis3partsoilto1partvinegar.Itendtouseamixofoliveoilandgroundnutoilsoitendsuplessrichandgloopy.Alternatively,Imightletthevinaigrettedownwithalittlewatertolightenit.Youcanflavouryourvinaigrettewithanythingyoulike:garlic,wholegrainmustard,herbsanddifferent-flavouredoilssuchaswalnutarethemostobvious.
ASIMPLEASIANDRESSING
ASIMPLEASIANDRESSING
Ilovethisdressingwithgrilledchicken,salmonorprawns.Mixequalpartsofhoneyandsoysaucewithasplashofricevinegarandwhiskinsesameandgroundnutoiluntilyouhaveadressingtheconsistencyofanythingbetweenvinaigretteandmayonnaise.
HOWTODRESSASALAD
Thetwokeysarenottousetoomuchvinaigretteandnottodressyourleavesuntilthelastminuteorelsetheywillwilt.Ifindusingyourhandsisthebestwaytogentlycoatthem.AneattrickIlearntinFranceistomakeyourvinaigretteinthesaladbowl,startingbysmearingacutgarlicbulballaroundthebowlandusingawhisktocombinethevinegar,seasoningandoil.Thenyouplaceyoursaladserverscrossedoverinthebowltocreateakindofplatformtorestthesaladleaveson,clearofthevinaigrette.Thenwhenyouareready,yougiveitaquicktossandyouaregoodtogo.
GRILLING
Thisisagreat,healthywayofcookingmeatandfishasthefatdrainsawayasyoucook.Ifyouwanttogetthoseprofessional-lookingcharredgrillmarks,you’llneedaridgedgrillpan.Getthepanreallyhotbeforeyoustartcooking,thenbrushthefoodwithoilandpressdownontotheridges.Don’tbetemptedtomovethefoodaroundasitcooks.Thisisespeciallytrueoffish.Onceitiscooked,itwillreleaseitselffromthepan,butifyoutrytomoveittooearly,itmaystickandtear.
ANCHOVYDIPWITHCRUDITÉS
BURRATAWITHQUICKBALSAMICFIGJAMANDCROSTINI
BIGCAESARSALAD
HALLOUMI,COURGETTEANDHERBCAKES
SLOW-ROASTEDTOMATOANDWATERCRESSSALAD
ORZOPASTASALAD
GRILLEDSARDINESWITHGREMOLATA
TUNANIÇOISESALAD
CARROT,CUMINANDORANGESALAD
MACKERELCEVICHEWITHSHAVEDFENNELANDGRAPEFRUIT
QUINOASALAD
FETA,WATERMELON,CUCUMBERANDMINTSALAD
GRIDDLEDCHICKENTHIGHSWITHCHICKPEAS,PIQUILLOPEPPERSANDLEMONYDRESSING
PRAWNANDCUCUMBERSALADWITHSPICYYOGHURTDRESSING
SCOTCHEGGS
BEETROOT,CORIANDERSEEDANDORANGE-CUREDSALMONWITHAPPLEANDCELERIACSALAD
TERIYAKISALMON
SOBANOODLESALAD
BURRATAWITHQUICKBALSAMICFIGJAMANDCROSTINISERVES4BurrataisanextracreamymozzarellafromPugliaintheheelofItaly.It’sabeautifulcheesethatdeservestobethestarattraction,butithastobeeatenwhenit’sveryfresh.Allyouneedtogowithitarecrustybread,someslowroasttomatoesandtornbasilleaves,orperhapsthissimplebalsamicfigjam.
1smallciabattaloaf,sliced
3ballsofburratacheese
Zestof1lemon
Oliveoil,fordrizzlingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
FORTHEFIGJAM150gcastersugar500gripefigs,stalksremoved,roughlychopped
5wholestaranise
1–2tbspbalsamicvinegar,totaste
1.Firstmakethefigjam.Sprinklethesugar,apinchofsaltandthestaraniseintoaheavy-basedsautépanandcookoveramediumheatuntilthesugarbeginstocaramelise.Addthefigsandtossinthecaramel.Reducetheheatslightlyandadd1tablespoonofthevinegar.Simmergently,stirringuntilthejamhasthickenedandthefigshavealmostcompletelybrokendown.Removethestaranise.
2.Mashthefigswithapotatomasheruntiltheyhavecompletelycollapsed.Takeofftheheatandsetasidetocool.
3.Meanwhile,makethecrostini.Preheatagriddleuntilhot.Drizzletheslicesofciabattawithalittleoliveoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Placeonthegriddleandcookoneithersidefor1–2minutes,oruntiltoastedandlightlycharred.
4.Toserve,placetheburratainaservingbowl,seasonwithsaltandpepper,drizzlewitholiveoilandsprinklewiththelemonzest.Spreadthecrostiniwiththefigjamandoffertheburrataalongside.
BIGCAESARSALADSERVES4
Caesarsaladisaperennialfavouriteinourhousebutwithsomanymouthstofeed,Ialwayshavetosupersizeit.Addingaquicklygriddledchickenbreastisasimplewayofmakingitstretchfurther.Coatthecroutonsinalittledressingbeforeaddingthemtothelettuceandyou’llhaveexplosionsofflavourthroughout.
150–200gday-oldwhiterustic-stylebreadorsourdoughOliveoil50gParmesancheese2romainelettuceor4babygemlettuce,washed,dried,halvedandsliced2skinless,bonelesschickenbreasts,butterflied(seetip)SeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHEDRESSING
2free-rangeeggyolks
1tspDijonmustard
1tbspredwineorsherryvinegarOliveoil1×50gtinbest-qualityanchoviesinoliveoil2garliccloves,peeledand
finelycrushed75gParmesancheese,gratedJuiceof1lemon,ortotaste1.Chopthebreadinto2cmchunks.Lightly
drizzlewitholiveoilandseasonwithapinchofsaltandpepper,thentosstocombine.
2.Placealargefryingpanoveramediumheat,addadashofoilandfrythebreaduntilgoldenandcrisp.Gratethree-quartersoftheParmesanoverthecroutons,tosstogetherovertheheat,thentransfertoaplate.
3.Tomakethedressing,puttheeggyolks,mustardandvinegarintoabowlandwhisktogether.Slowlypourintheoliveoil,whiskingasyoudoso,untilthemixtureemulsifies.Finelychoptheanchoviesandmixwiththegarlictoformaroughpaste.Addtothedressingandmixwell.StirintheParmesan,lemonjuicetotaste,andalittlesplashofwater.
4.Putthelettuceintoaservingbowl,addasqueezeoflemonjuiceandhalfthedressing.Sprinkleoverhalfthecroutonsandmix.TopwiththerestofthecroutonsandfinishwiththeremainingParmesan.
5.Placeagriddlepanoveramedium-highheat.Seasonthechickenbreastsonbothsides,drizzlewithalittleoilandcookonthehotgriddlefor3–4minutesoneitherside,untilnicelystripedandcookedthrough.Transfertoaplate,sprinkleoversomeoftheremainingdressingandleavetorestfor5minutes.
6.Slicethechickenintodiagonalstripsandservewarm,eithermixedthroughoralongsidethesaladwithalittleextradressingspoonedover.
HOWTOBUTTERFLYACHICKENBREASTThepurposeofbutterflyingmeatistoopenitouttomakeitthinnerandquickertocook.Placethebreastonaboardand,usingaverysharpknife,slicealmostallthewaythroughithorizontally–itshouldremainjoineddownoneside.Thenopenitlikeabook,coverwithclingfilmandflattenwitharollingpinuntiluniformlythin.
flattenwitharollingpinuntiluniformlythin.
HALLOUMI,COURGETTEANDHERBCAKESSERVES4
Weknowhalloumias‘squeakycheese’inourhousebecauseofthenoiseitmakeswhenyoubiteintoit.Thegreatthingaboutitisthatitholdstogetherwellwhenyoucookit,makingitidealforthesevegetarianpatties.ServeitwiththeSlow-RoastedTomatoandWatercressSalad.
2carrots,peeledandgrated1courgette,grated500ghalloumicheese,grated2–4springonions,trimmedandfinelychopped
2tbspchoppedcorianderleaves
2tbspchoppedmintleaves
2free-rangeeggs,lightlybeaten2–4tbspbreadcrumbsOliveoil,forfryingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
FORTHECHILLIDRESSING1redchilli,finelyslicedonthediagonal2cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandfinelydiced
2tspcastersugar
2–3tbspricewinevinegar2–3tbspoliveoilPinchofsalt
1.Tomakethehalloumicakesputthecarrotsandcourgetteinasieveorcolanderandsprinklewithadecentpinchofsalttodrawoutthemoisture.Placeoverabowltodrainfor5minutes,thentipintoacleanteatowelandsqueezeoutalltheexcesswater.
2.Putthehalloumi,carrotmixture,springonions,corianderandmintintoabowl,seasonandmixtogether.Addthebeateneggsandmixwell,thenstirin2tablespoonsofthebreadcrumbs.Themixtureshouldbestickyenoughtoformintopatties,ifit’snotstickyenoughaddsomemorebreadcrumbs.Shapethemixtureinto8largerpattiesabout1cmthick,or16smallerones.Tohelpshapethepattiesplacealargespoonfulofthemixontoaspoonandpressagainstyourhandandsqueezeoutanyexcessliquid.Leaveinthefridgeuncoveredforatleast20–25minutestofirmup.
3.Meanwhile,putallthedressingingredientsintoabowlandstirwelluntilthesugarhasdissolved.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.
4.Onceyou’rereadytocook,heatalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheat.Addadashofoilandfrythehalloumicakes(inbatchesifnecessary)untildarkgoldenandcrisponeithersideandhotallthewaythrough.
5.Servethecakeshotwithspoonfulsofthechillidressingoverthetop.
HOWTOCHOPHERBSSoftherbs,suchasbasil,parsley,corianderandmint,canbruiseveryeasily,sotrytoensureyoucutthemonlyonce.Theeasiestwaytodothisistorollthemgentlyintoaballorcigarshape,andslicealongtheirlength.Don’tbetemptedtogobackoverthem–unlikerosemary,say,theyneverhavetobecutthatfine.
SLOW-ROASTEDTOMATOANDWATERCRESSSALADSERVES4
Tomatoes,watercressandshallots–oneofthesimplestcombinations,buttheflavoursworksowelltogether.Especiallyifyou’vetakenthetroubletoslowroastthetomatoesfirsttointensifytheirflavour.Isometimesdotheseinlargebatchesandkeeptheminoliveoilinthefridgeforaddingtosandwichesorothersalads.TheperfectaccompanimenttomyHalloumi,Courgette,andHerbCakes.
300gcherrytomatoes,inamixtureofcoloursifyouwish,cutinhalf2thymesprigs,leavesonly
2garliccloves,peeledandfinelysliced
Castersugar,forsprinklingOliveoil,fordrizzling
125gwatercress,wellwashed
½bananashallot,slicedintoringsAgedbalsamicvinegar,fordrizzlingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheattheovento150°C/Gas2.
2.Arrangethetomatoesinasinglelayer,cutsideup,inabakingtray.Sprinkleoverthethymeleaves,garlicandacoupleofpinchesofsugar.Seasonwithsaltandpepperanddrizzlewithoil.
3.Placeintheovenfor1–1½hours,untilthetomatoeshaveshrivelledup.
4.Oncereadytoserve,placethewatercressinaservingbowl,addtheshallotringsandtomatoesandmixwell.Drizzlewithalittleoliveoilandacoupleofsplashesofbalsamicvinegartotaste.Seasonandserve.
HOWTOVARYTHERECIPEIfyoudon’thaveanyshallotstohand,youcanusethinlyslicedonions.Soaktheminmilkorsaltedwaterfor20minutesfirsttomakethemless
Soaktheminmilkorsaltedwaterfor20minutesfirsttomakethemlessastringent.
ORZOPASTASALADSERVES4
Thepepperinessoftherocket,theperfumeofthebasilandtheacidityofthedressingworkbeautifullytogetherinthissalad.Orzolookslikebarley,butisactuallymadeofpasta.It’straditionallyusedtoaddbodytosoupsandcasserolesbutworksequallywellhere.Addingabayleaftothecookingwatergivesitanintriguingbackgroundflavour.ThissaladworkswellwithGriddledSardineswithGremolata.
200gorzo
1bayleaf
50–100gpinenutsLargebunchofbasil,chopped100grocket,roughlychoppedOliveoil,fordrizzlingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
FORTHEDRESSING30gParmesancheese,finelygratedZestof1lemon
6tbspextravirginoliveoil
1.Cooktheorzoaccordingtothepacketinstructions,butaddingthebayleaftothecookingwater.Whenaldente,drain,thenholdunderrunningcoldwaterforabout10secondstostopthecookingprocess.Discardthebayleaf,thendrizzletheorzowithalittleoliveoilandmixitthroughtostopthegrainsstickingtogether.
2.Meanwhile,makethedressinginyourservingbowl.MixtheParmesanwiththelemonzestandjuice.Add3tablespoonsoftheoilandmixwell.Tasteandseasonasnecessary,addingalittlemoreoilifneeded.
3.Toastthepinenutsinadryfryingpanoveramediumheatuntilgolden.Removeandsetasideuntilcool.
4.Whiletheorzoisstillslightlywarm,addittothedressingthenmixthroughtherocket,basilandpinenuts.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary,andserve.
HOWTOZESTCITRUSFRUITPlaceafour-sidedgrateronaplate.Usingthesidewiththesmallestholes,rubthefruitdownitinlong,sweepingstrokes,turningthefruitalittleaftereachstrokesoyoudon’tgrateanyofthebitterwhitepith.
GRIDDLEDSARDINESWITHGREMOLATASERVES4Ilovesardines:theyaresuchahealthybutunder-ratedfish.Myfavouritewayofeatingthemischarredandblisteredfromabeachsidebarbecue,butfailingthat,thisrecipeisprettyspecialtoo.GremolataisatypicalItaliancondimentmadeoflemonzest,garlicandparsleywhichisservedwithfishorgrilledmeats.I’veaddedalittleorangeheretooasitworkssowellwiththesardines.TheOrzoPastaSaladwillgowiththisperfectly.
12–16sardines(dependingonsize),scaledandguttedOliveoil,fordrizzling
Bunchofrosemary–12–16sprigsSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
FORTHEGREMOLATA
Bunchofparsley,leavesonly,choppedZestandjuiceof1lemonZestandjuiceof½orange1garlicclove,peeledandfinelygratedorcrushedOliveoil1.Drizzlethesardineswithalittleoliveoilandseasonwithsalt.Insertasmallsprigofrosemaryinthestomachcavityofeachone.
2.Placeagriddlepanoverahighheat.Whenhot,addthesardines(inbatchesifnecessary)andcookfor2–3minutesoneachside,untilnicelymarkedandcookedthrough.
3.Meanwhile,puttheparsleyinabowl,addthecitruszestandjuice,thegarlicandadrizzleofoliveoil.Stirwell,thentasteandseasonwithapinchofsaltandpepperifnecessary.
4.Servethesardineswiththegremolataspoonedontop.
TUNANIÇOISESALADSERVES4
ThisisaclassicFrenchsalad,whichyou’lloftenseesmartenedupinrestaurantswithfreshlysearedtuna,butIthinkitismuchbettermadethewaytheFrenchintended,withtinned.Withitsripetomatoesandnaturallyblackolives,it’sfulloftheflavoursofProvence.TheonlytwistIliketodoistoincorporatetheanchoviesintothedressingratherthanlayingthemontop.Thatwayyougettoenjoythelovelysaltykickthroughoutthesalad.AperfectaccompanimenttothissaladisthePear,Goat’sCheeseandWalnutTartine.
8newpotatoes(halvedorquarterediflarge)
500ggreenbeans,trimmed
Extravirginoliveoil,fordrizzling
4free-rangeeggs
2babygemlettuce,cutintowedges320gbest-qualitytinnedtunainoliveoil,drainedandflaked75gblackolives,preferablyFrench,roughlytorn250gbabyplumtomatoes,halvedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
FORTHEDRESSING1tspDijonmustard1tbspcapers
5best-qualityanchoviesinoliveoil
1garlicclove,peeledandroughlychopped2tbspredwinevinegar
4tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil
Smallhandfulofparsleyleaves,finelychopped
1.Putthepotatoesintoapanofcoldwaterwithapinchofsalt,bringtotheboil,thenboilfor6–7minutes.Addthegreenbeansandcontinuetoboilfor3–5minutes,oruntilboththepotatoesandbeansaretender.Draininacolander,thenseasonanddrizzlewithalittleoil.Setaside.
2.Meanwhile,boiltheeggsingentlyboilingwaterfor7minutes,oruntilalmosthard-boiled.Drain,thenfillthepanwithcoldwater,taptheeggsagainstthesidetocracktheshellsandleavetositinthewatertocool.
3.Tomakethedressing,putthemustard,capers,anchoviesand2teaspoonsoftheiroilintoamortarandpoundtoapaste.Addthegarlicandagoodpinchofpepperandmixagain.Finally,addthevinegar,oliveoilandparsleyandmixwell.
4.Halvethepotatoes,thenpeelandslicetheeggs.
5.Toserve,place2tablespoonsofthedressingonalargeservingplatterorinashallowbowl.Arrangetheingredientsasyouprefer,drizzlingwiththedressingasyougo.Finishwiththeremainingdressing.
HOWTOCHOOSEBLACKOLIVESAlwaystrytobuygenuinelyblackolives,whichhavebeenleftonthetreestoripennaturallyandareactuallymoreofadarkgreenybrown.Theuniformlyglossyblackonesyouoftenseearesimplygreenolivespaintedwithablackdye.
CARROT,CUMINANDORANGESALADSERVES4
Thisisalovelysunny-lookingsaladtypicalofMorocco.It’salsothatrarething–asaladthatgetsbetterforstandingaroundabitandallowingtheflavourstomingle.Servewithgrilledmeatorfish.
5carrots,peeledandgratedZestandjuiceof1orange75gpumpkinseeds
50gsunflowerseeds1½tspcuminseeds,toasted1tbspDijonmustard
1tbsprunnyhoney
1tbspwhitewinevinegar
3–4tbspoliveoil2tbsptorncorianderleaves
2tbsptornmintleaves
Seasalt
1.Mixthecarrotsinabowlwiththeorangezestandjuice,thepumpkinandsunflowerseeds.
2.Grindthecuminseedswithalittleseasaltusingapestleandmortar,thenstirthemintothecarrotmixture.
3.Combinethemustard,honey,vinegarandoliveoilinabowl.Addthemintandcorianderleaves,thentasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Pouroverthesaladandtosswell.Thiscanbeeatenstraightaway,orwillkeepforupto2daysinthefridge.
MACKERELCEVICHEWITHSHAVEDFENNELANDGRAPEFRUITSERVES4
CevicheisaSouthAmericandishofrawfishmarinatedinamixtureofcitrusjuiceandherbsandspices.Itisincrediblylightandhealthy,especiallywhenmadewithanoilyfishlikemackerel,whichisfullofomega3.Makesureyouusethefreshestfishyoucanfindanddon’tdressituntilyouarereadytoeatoritwill‘cook’inthegrapefruitjuiceandgomushy.ThisislovelyservedalongsideQuinoaSalad.
2pinkgrapefruit
Oliveoil,fordrizzling1fennelbulb,withfrondsifavailable2mackerelfillets,extremelyfresh,
pin-bonedSmallbunchofcoriander,leaveschoppedZestandjuiceof1lime
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Firstmakethesalad.Finelygratethegrapefruitzestandsetitaside.Cutoffanddiscardtheskinandpith.Segmentthefleshbyslicingitbetweenthemembraneandplaceitinabowl.Squeezeoverthejuicesfromanybitsoffleshstillattachedtothemembrane,seasonwithsaltandpepper,addadrizzleofoliveoilandmixtogether.
2.Arrangethegrapefruitinconcentriccirclesonaservingplate,reservingthedressinginthebowl.
3.Roughlychopthefennelfrondsandsetaside.Peeloffanddiscardtheouterlayerofthefennel,thenuseapeelerormandolinetocutthinstripsfromthebulb.Placeinabowloficedwaterfor5–10minutestocrispup.
4.Meanwhile,maketheceviche.Spoonhalfthegrapefruitdressingoveraservingplate.Cutthemackerelintoslices5mmthickandplacethemontopofthedressing.Seasonwithapinchofsaltandpepper,thensprinklewithhalfthegrapefruitzest,corianderandfennelfronds.
5.Drainthefennelanddrywithkitchenpaper.Placeitontopofthegrapefruitandsprinklewiththeremaininggrapefruitzest,coriander,fennelfronds,limezestandjuice.Seasonwithapinchofsaltandtheremaininggrapefruitdressing.Drizzlewithalittlemoreoliveoilandservewiththeceviche.
QUINOASALADSERVES4
Quinoaisaslightlynuttygrainthatmakesagreatalternativetocouscous,riceorlentils.HereI’veturneditintoasimplesalad,basedonaverypopulardishweserveatBreadStreetKitchen.IfyouareservingthiswiththeMackerelCevichewithShavedFennelandGrapefruit,youcoulddressitwiththesamemarinade.
200gquinoa
50gflakedalmonds
½largecucumber125gcherrytomatoes,halved50graisins
4springonions,trimmedandfinelychopped
Bunchofmint,leavesonlyJuiceof1limeOliveoil,fordrizzlingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Cookthequinoaaccordingtothepacketinstructions,thendrainandspreadoutonalargeplateortraytocoolquickly.
2.Toastthealmondsinadryfryingpanuntilgoldenandplaceinasaladbowl.
3.Usingavegetablepeeler,takelengthwaysstripsofskinoffthecucumbersothatitlooksstripy.Cutitinhalflengthways,thenspoonoutanddiscardtheseeds.Chopthecucumberintohalf-moonslicesandaddtothealmondsinthesaladbowl.
4.Addthetomatoes,raisins,springonionsandhalftheminttothebowl.Thenaddthecookedquinoaandmixeverythingtogether.Seasonwellwithsaltandpepper.Dressthesaladwiththelimejuiceandagooddrizzleofoliveoil.
5.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Garnishwiththeremainingmintleavesandserve.
FETA,WATERMELON,CUCUMBERANDMINTSALADSERVES4
Unusualasthissaladsounds,itreallyworksbecauseofthepairingofsaltyfetawithsweetwatermelon.InGreece,whereitoriginates,they’lloftenthrowinsomeblackolivestoobutIlikethecrunchyougetfromthetoastedpecans.Don’tmakethissaladaheadorthesaltycheeseandnutswilldrawthemoistureoutofthewatermelon,makingthemallsoggy.PairthissaladwithGriddledChickenThighswithChickPeas,PiquilloPeppersandLemonyDressing.
50gwholepecannuts
1ripewatermelon,fleshcutintochunks,anyseedsandwhitepartsdiscarded1cucumber,peeled,deseededandchoppedintochunks
200gbest-qualityfetacheese
Extravirginoliveoil,fordrizzlingSmallbunchofmint,leavesonly,roughlychopped
1tspgroundsumac
Juiceof1lemon
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Breakupthepecansandlightlytoastinadryfryingpanwithapinchofsaltuntilgolden.Removeandlightlycrushinapestleandmortar.Leavetocool.
2.Placethewatermeloninaservingbowlandmixinthecucumber.Crumbleinthefetaandmixwell,seasoningwithalittlesaltandpepperandadrizzleofoliveoil.Addthemintleaves,pecans,sumacandlemonjuicetotaste.Tosslightlyandserve.
GRIDDLEDCHICKENTHIGHSWITHCHICKPEAS,PIQUILLOPEPPERSANDLEMONYDRESSINGSERVES4
Don’tautomaticallyturntochickenbreastsoverotherpartsofthebird.Chickenthighsarefantasticallytastytoo,andbecausetheyarericherandmorerobust,theycanstanduptopunchyflavoursbetter.Withitsmixofchickpeas,capersandpiquillopeppers,thisiscasualSpanishcookingatitsbestandwouldbeagreatsummerymealservedwiththeFeta,Watermelon,CucumberandMintSalad.
4bonelesschickenthighs,skinonOliveoil,fordrizzling1×200gjarpiquilloorroastedredpeppers,drained,cutintostrips1×
400gtincookedchickpeas,drained8–12caperberries,stalksremoved,halvedSmallbunchofbasil,leavesonly,roughlytornSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHEDRESSING
1tspDijonmustard
4tbspextravirginoliveoil
Juiceof1lemon
1.Placeagriddlepanoverahighheat.Putthechickenonaplateanddrizzlewithalittleoliveoil.Seasonwithsaltandpepperandtosswelltocoat.Placeinthehotgriddlepan,skinsidedown,andcookfor4–5minutes,untiltheskinisdarkgolden,crispandmarkedwithgriddlelines.Lowertheheatandturnthechickenover.Cookforafurther6–8minutes,turningnowandagain,untilthechickeniscookedthrough.Removeandsetasidetorestforafewminutes.
2.Tomakethedressingputthemustardintoabowl,addtheoliveoil,lemonjuiceandsaltandpepper.Mixwell,thentasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.
3.Placethepeppersstrips,chickpeasandcaperberriesinasaladbowlandmixwell.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.
4.Mixthebasilintothechickpeasalad,thenpourinthree-quartersofthedressing.Slicethechickenintochunkyslicesandplaceontopofthesalad.Tosslightly,drizzleovertheremainingdressingandserve.
HOWTOGRIDDLEWheneveryouuseagriddlepan,alwayspressdownhardwhatyouarecookingandholditthereforafewseconds.Thiswillhelpachievethosecharacteristicscorchlines,whichnotonlylookattractivebutmeanmoreflavour.
2tbspsweetchillisauce
Zestandjuiceof1lime1tspgoldencastersugar
4tbspnaturalyoghurt
1.Firstmakethedressing.Place1tablespoonofthefishsauceinabowl(orajarifyouaretakingthisonapicnic)andaddthechillisauce,limezestandjuiceandthesugar.Mixwell.Addtheyoghurtaspoonfulatatime,stirringasyoudoso,thentasteandaddalittlemorefishsauceifneeded.
2.Place1tablespoonofthedressinginasaladbowl.Sittheprawns,cucumberandlettuceontop.Coverandsetaside(inthefridgeifnotrequiredforafewhours).
3.Justbeforeserving,pourtheremainingdressingoverthesaladandtosswell.
SCOTCHEGGSSERVES4
Scotcheggsaretheultimateall-in-onesnack,deliciousontheirownorservedwithaspoonfulofchutney.Theblackpuddingandgratedappleworkreallywelltogetherandtakethissimplepicnicfoodtoanotherlevel.Makesureyouuseflakypankobreadcrumbsasthisisthesecretofalovelycrispygoldencoating.
6free-rangeeggs
200gbest-qualitysausagemeat
200gbest-qualityblackpudding,skinremoved,meatcrumbled½GrannySmithapple,grated
4tbspplainflour
150gpankobreadcrumbs
Flavourlessoil,e.g.groundnutorsunflower,fordeep-fryingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1.Place4oftheeggsinapanofboilingwaterandboilfor4½minutes.Drain,thenfillthepanwithcoldwater,taptheeggsagainstthesidetocracktheshellsandleavetositinthewatertocool.
2.Meanwhile,mixtogetherthesausagemeat,blackpuddingandappleuntilwellcombined.Dividethemixtureinto4equalpiecesandshapeintoflattenedovals.
3.Placetheflourinashallowdishandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Beattheremaining2eggsinanotherdish,andplacethebreadcrumbsinathirdshallowdish.
4.Peeltheboiledeggs,thenplaceeachoneinthemiddleofasausagemeatovalandpressthemixturearoundthemuntiltheyareevenlycovered.
5.Poura4cmdepthofoilintoasautépanandheatuntilitbeginstoshimmer.
6.Meanwhile,dustthemeat-coveredeggsinflour,shakingoffanyexcess.Rollinthebeatenegg,allowinganyexcesstodripoff.Finally,coatinthebreadcrumbs,pressingtheminsothattheyreallystick.
7.Shallow-frytheeggsfor10–12minutes,turningoften,untilgoldenandcrispontheoutsideandcookedthroughinside.Servewarmorcold.
HOWTOPEELAHARD-BOILEDEGGTheeasiestwayistocracktheshellandthenleaveitincoldwaterforacoupleofminutes.Thewaterwillseepinsidetheshell,makingiteasytoslipoff.
BEETROOT,CORIANDERSEEDANDORANGE-CUREDSALMONWITHAPPLEANDCELERIACSALADSERVES8–10
SalmonwasaluxurywhenIwasgrowingupbutnowadaysithasbecomealmostcommonplace,sohere’sarecipetoputtheexcitementbackintoit.Theoutsideofthesalmontakesonthedeepredofthebeetrootandlooksstunningonceitissliced.TheappleandceleriacsaladisbasedontheclassicFrenchsalad,remoulade,butI’veaddedthematchsticksofappletocounterthesharpnessofthelemon.Putthesalmonandsaladtogetherandit’samatchmadeinheaven.
800gmiddlepieceofsalmonside,scaledbutskinonRyebread,toasted,toserve
FORTHECURE
2tbspcorianderseeds
250grawbeetroot,peeledandgratedZestof2oranges100gfineseasalt100gcastersugarFreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHEAPPLEANDCELERIACSALAD
Juiceof1lemon1large,firmceleriac,peeled2–3GrannySmithapples(dependingon
size),quarteredandcored300mlsourcream
2tbspgood-qualitymayonnaise
Smallbunchofparsley,leavesonly,finelychoppedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper2tbsppoppyseeds,togarnish
1.Takeabakingdishorroastingtraylargeenoughtofitthesalmonandlineitwithclingfilm.Trimthesidesofthesalmonifnecessarytoneatentheedges,thenplaceinthedish,skinsidedown.
2.Tomakethecure,breakupthecorianderseedsusingamortarandpestle.Placeinabowlwiththebeetroot,orangezest,fineseasalt,sugarandacoupleoftwistsofblackpepperandmixwell.
3.Spreadthecuremixtureoverthesalmon,makingsurethefleshiscompletelycovered.Coverwithasheetofclingfilmandsitanotherdishortraydirectlyontopofthat.Weighthisdownwithsometinsoraheavypanandleaveinthefridgefor8hoursorovernight.
4.Meanwhile,makethesalad.Putthelemonjuiceintoalargebowl.Slicetheceleriacandappleintomatchsticks,andtossimmediatelyinthelemonjuicetopreventthemfromgoingbrown.
5.Inaseparatebowl,mixtogetherthesourcream,mayonnaiseandparsley.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,thenaddtotheceleriacandmixwell.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.
6.Oncereadytoserve,removethesalmonfromthecure,wipingoffanyexcess.Placethefishonachoppingboard,skinsidedown,andthinlyslicethefleshatanangleintopiecesabout1–2mmthick,flickingyourknifewhenyoureachtheskintoslicethefleshawayfromit.Transferthesalmonpiecestoaplate.
7.Garnishtheappleandceleriacsaladwiththepoppyseedsandservealongsidetheslicedsalmonwithsometoastedryebread.
TERIYAKISALMONSERVES4
Givenhowmuchsalmonweeatathome,I’malwaystryingoutnewwaysofservingit,andthisismycurrentfavourite.It’samazinghowmuchflavourthesalmontakesonafterjust20minutesinthesweetandsaltymarinade,andit’sevenbetterifyoucangiveittwohours.Rememberalwaystocookfishskin-sidedownatfirsttoprotectthedelicatefleshfromtoomuchheat.ServewithgarlictenderstembroccoliandperhapsSobaNoodleSalad.
2cmpieceoffreshrootginger,finelysliced2garliccloves,peeledandfinelysliced
3tbspsoysauce
2tbspmaplesyrup
1tbspmirin(ricewine)Oliveoil4salmonfillets(about500gintotal)Seasaltandfreshlygroundpepper1.
Putthegingerandgarlicintoabowlandmixwiththesoysauce,maplesyrup,mirinandadrizzleofoliveoil.
2.Placethesalmonfilletsinadish,seasonwithsaltandpepperandpourthestickydressingoverthem.Coverwithclingfilmandsetasideinthefridgetomarinateforupto2hours,butatleast20minutes.
3.Placealargefryingpanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,addthesalmon,skinsidedown,reservingthemarinade.Cookfor2minutes,thenpourinthereservedmarinadeandcookforafurtherminuteorso,untilthesalmonfilletsareopaquehalfwayupthesides.Turnthemoverandcookontheothersidefor3–4minutes,bastingwiththesaucesothatthesalmoniswellcoated.Addasplashofwaterifthesauceistoothick.
4.Servethesalmonfilletsonindividualplates,spooningoveranyteriyakisauceleftinthepan.
SOBANOODLESALADSERVES4
Awholesome,fillingsidedishofbuckwheatnoodlesservedwithfreshvegetablesanddressedwithakindofJapanesevinaigretteofsesameoil,ricevinegar,soysauceandlemonjuice.Doaddthenoriseaweedifyoucan.Itgivesthefinisheddisharealdepthofflavour.AperfectdishtoaccompanyTeriyakiSalmon.
300gsobanoodles
100gkale,stalksremoved,leavesshreddedortorn150gsugarsnappeas,toppedandtailed,halvedlengthways3carrots,peeledandslicedintoribbons(useavegetablepeeler)
2springonions,trimmedandfinelychopped
3cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandfinelysliced
1tbspsesameoil
1–2tspricevinegar1–1½tbspsoysauceJuiceof½lemon1sheetofnoriseaweed,finelysliced(optional)Seasaltandfreshly
groundpepper1.Cookthesobanoodlesaccordingtothepacketinstructions.Whenalmostcooked,addthekale,sugarsnapsandcarrotstothepantoblanch.Drainoncethenoodlesaretender.
2.Addalltheremainingingredientstothenoodlemixture,seasonwithalittlesaltandpepper,stirwellandserve.
EVERYONENEEDSALITTLESWEETSOMETHINGEVERYNOWANDAGAIN.
Whetherasatreatinalunchboxoraspartofanold-fashionedtea-timespread.Mymumranatea-roominStratforduponAvonwhenIwasgrowingup,andthesmellofcakesandbiscuitsastheycomeoutoftheovenstilltakesmerightback.Foralotofus,thiswaswherewefirsttriedourhandatcooking,helpingtomakeaVictoriaspongeortrayofflapjacksandgettingtolickthebowlafterwards.It’scertainlyagreatwaytogetchildreninterested.It’simportantforthemtolearnthatcookingsavouryfoodcanbejustasrewarding,butthatasweettreatwon’tdoyouanyharmaslongasitisanoccasionalindulgence.Allofmychildrenhaveenjoyedrollinguptheir
isanoccasionalindulgence.Allofmychildrenhaveenjoyedrollinguptheirsleevesandgettingstuckin.
We’vegotagoodrepertoireofcakesandbiscuitsinthiscountry,butinthischapterIwantedtoexploresomerecipesfromothercountriessuchasAmerica,FranceandTurkey.Italwaysamazesmehowdifferentnationscanputdifferenttwistsonthings.Noneoftheserecipeshavetobeeatenattea-time,ofcourse.TheLemonandPoppySeedMadeleines,forexample,aregreatatbreakfast,too,andIcan’timagineanyonecomplainingaboutbeingservedasliceofChocolateandMintCaramelcakeforpudding.
Whereasinmostsavourycookingyoucanexperimentwiththeproportions,addinglessormoreofeachingredientaccordingtotaste,withbakingyoudohavetobemoreprecise.Bakingisascience,inwhichtheingredientsreactagainsteachothertoachievetheresultyouwant–theriseofasponge,forexample–andyoumesswiththeproportionsatyourperil.Ifyoudohavetroublewitharecipethathasn’tperformedthewayyouexpected,thisisalwaysthefirstthingtocheck.Didyouweigheverythingoutproperly?Overleafareafewmoretipsthatwillapplyeithertotheserecipesormoregeneralbaking.
BAKINGTINSBuytheheaviestyoucanastheywillheatupevenly.Topreventfoodsticking,eitherbutterandlinethemwithgreaseproofpaper,orbutteranddustthemwithflour.Youcanalsogetsiliconemuffintraysnowadays,whichareveryeasytoturnout,butyoucan’tusethemtomakeotherthingslikeYorkshirepuddings,obviously.
BUTTER
IprefertouseunsaltedbutterinmysweetcookingasIfinditcreamsbetteranditalsomeansthatifIwanttoaddapinchofsalt(whichhelpstoaccentuatethesweetness)Iamincontrolofhowmuchtoadd.Oneofthemostimportantthingswhenmakingacakeistohaveallyouringredientsatroomtemperature.Ifyourbutteristoohard,itwon’tcreamproperlyandthenyouwillstruggletoincorporatetheairitneedstorise.Don’tputitinthemicrowave,butyoucancutitintocubesandputitinlukewarmwaterforafewminutes.
FLOUR
Plainflourismadefromwheat,butyoucanexperimentwithdifferenttypes.Alittlechestnutflourworksbeautifullyincakes.I’magreatfanofwholemealorspeltflours,whichretainmoreofthehusk.Theytendtobeabitheavierthanplainflourbutcangiveanicenuttinesstobiscuitsormuffins.Ifyouwantyourdishtorise,forexample,inamuffinorAmericanpancake,youwillneedtouseself-raisingflour,whichisplainflourwithbakingpowderadded.Plainflourwillkeepindefinitely,butself-raisingdoeshaveause-bydatebecausetherisingagentswillbecomelesseffectivewithtime.Ifyouwanttomakeyourownself-raisingflour,add2teaspoonsofbakingpowdertoevery150gofplainflourandmixwell.
GOLDENSYRUPAgreatadditiontobiscuitsasitaddsachewinesstothefinishedtexture.Youcanalsoaddaspoonfultoyoursugarwhenmakingcaramelasitinterfereswiththeformationofsugarcrystalswhichcanmakeyourcaramelseize.
SUGAR
Differentsugarsallhavedifferentqualities.Muscovadoisstickyandtreacly,sogreatforbiscuits,fruitcakesandpickles.Powderyicingsugardissolveseasilysoisidealforbuttercreamsandicings.Palmsugar,madefrompalmtreesap,usuallycomesasapasteandaddsacaramellyflavourtosweetandsavouryAsiandishes.Demerarahaslargercrystalstoaddcrunchtothingslikecookies,crumblesandflapjacks.Andthenthereiscastersugar,halfwaybetweengranulatedandicingsugarandtheultimateforbaking.
WORKINGWITHPASTRY
Youshouldalwayschillpastryafterithasbeenrolledoutintothetarttintopreventitfromshrinkingintheoven.Ifyouaregoingtobeaddingarunnyfillingthatwillmakethepastrysoggy,recipesusuallycallforitbeblindbaked.Thismeansfillingthecasewithceramicbakingbeans(orlentilsorrice)toweighthepastrybasedownandstopitpuffingup.Normallyafterabout15minutes’cooking,youwillremovethebeansandcontinuetoblindbakethecaseuntilitisgolden.Nowyoucanaddthefillingandreturnittotheovenwithoutfearofthepastrybeingsoggyonthebottom.
LEMONANDPOPPYSEEDMADELEINES
PEARANDCRUNCHYGRANOLAMUFFINS
PEANUTBUTTERANDJAMCOOKIES
DULCEDELECHEBISCUITS
CRANBERRY,MARSHMALLOWANDPEANUTCHOCOLATEFRIDGECAKE
LEMONANDPISTACHIOBAKLAVA
CHOCOLATEANDMINTCARAMELCAKE
SALTEDCARAMELPOPCORN
LEMONANDPOPPYSEEDMADELEINESMAKES16
IfellinlovewiththesedelicatespongecakeswhenIworkedinFranceandwouldoftentreatmyselftoacoupleforbreakfastafteranightshiftmakingbread.Thebatterwillkeepinthefridgeovernightifyouwanttobakethemfirstthinginthemorning(don’tforgettomixthebatteragainfirst);otherwise,theymakeagreattea-timetreat.Ifyoudon’thaveamadeleinepan,youcanalwaysuseasmallmuffintin,butbearinmindthatthespongeswon’thavethatlovelyshellshapethatmakesthemsospecial.
75gunsaltedbutter,meltedandcooledslightly,plussoftenedbutterforgreasing2tbspplainflour,fordusting
75gcastersugar
3free-rangeeggs
75gself-raisingflour
1½tbsppoppyseedsFinelygratedzestof2lemons
1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Brush2madeleinetrayswithsoftenedbutter,dustwithsiftedplainflour,thentapouttheexcess.
2.Placethesugarandeggsinalargebowlandwhisktogetherforatleast5minutes,oruntilpale,thickandthemixtureholdsatrailonthesurfacewhenthebeatersarelifted.
3.Carefullysifttheself-raisingflourovertheeggmixture,thensprinklewiththepoppyseedsandlemonzest.Pourthemeltedbutterdowntheinsideedgeofthebowland,usingaspatula,quicklyandgentlyfoldtheingredientstogether.Becarefulnottoknockouttoomuchair.
4.Transferthebattertoajugandpoursomeintoeachindentofthepreparedtrays,fillingthemtothetop.Bakefor8–10minutes.
5.Transferthemadeleinestoawirerackandleavetocool.Theyareattheirbestwhenservedwarm.
HOWTOMAKETHEPERFECTSPONGEThesecretofalight,airyspongeistoincorporatelotsofairintoyourmix.Itisessentialthatyouwhisktogethertheeggsandsugartogetherforagoodfiveminutesonfullspeed,untilitisthickandpale.Timeinvestednowwillimmeasurablyimprovetheendresult.
PEARANDCRUNCHYGRANOLAMUFFINSMAKES16
TheAmericanmuffinhaswellandtrulytakenoverfromitsdoughyEnglishcounterpart,andsincespendingmoretimeintheStates,thewholefamilyhasdevelopedatasteforthem.Iliketheseonesbecausetheyaren’tassweetassomeandthecrunchymueslitoppinggivesthemanevenhealthierfeel.Andthebeautyofthisrecipeisthatyoucanmakethebatter,refrigerateitthenightbeforeyouneedit,thenmixitagaininthemorningandbake!Greatatanytimeofday,frombreakfastthroughelevensestoafternoontea.
300gself-raisingflour,sifted
1tspbakingpowder
1tspgroundcinnamon
Pinchofseasalt
125glightmuscovadosugar250mlwholemilk2free-rangeeggs,beaten100gbutter,melted2smallripepears,peeled,coredandcutintosmallpieces100gcrunchy
granola1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4andlineacoupleofmuffintrayswithpapercases.
2.Sifttheflour,bakingpowder,cinnamonandsaltintoalargebowl,thenstirinthesugar.Whiskthemilk,eggsandbuttertogetherinalargejug,thenpourintothedryingredientsandmixwell.Stirinthepearsandhalfthegranola.
3.Dividethebatterbetweenthemuffincases,andsprinklethetopofeachonewiththeremaininggranola.
4.Bakefor25–30minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothemiddleofthemuffinscomesoutclean.Leavetocoolfor5minutesbeforeservingwarmoratroomtemperature.
HOWTOMAKEPERFECTMUFFINSDon’tovermixyourwetanddryingredients.Acoupleofstirswithaspoonwillbeplenty–or,betterstill,useyourhands.Otherwisethemuffinswillcomeoutheavy.
PEANUTBUTTERANDJAMCOOKIESMAKES30
AnotherAmerican-inspiredcombo.IusedtolovepeanutbutterandjamsandwichesforteawhenIwasyoung–muchtomymum’shorror–andtheflavoursworkjustaswellinachewycookie.Thisisagreatoneforgettingthekidsinvolved.Theyloverollingouttheballsofdoughandthenmakingindentswiththeirtinyfingerssoyoucanaddadollopofjamandpeanutbutter.
185gplainflour,sifted
1tspbakingpowder
Pinchofseasalt
125gbutter,softened325gpeanutbutter(smoothorcrunchyisfine)185glightmuscovadosugar
3tbspmilk
1vanillapod,splitopenandseedsscrapedout
1largefree-rangeegg,beaten125graspberryjam
1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4andline2bakingsheetswithbakingpaper.
2.Sifttheflour,bakingpowderandsaltintoabowl.
3.Putthebutter,200gofthepeanutbutterandthesugarintoalargeseparatebowlandwhiskuntilpaleandfluffy.Addthemilk,vanillaseedsandeggandbeatuntilsmooth.Graduallysiftintheflourmixtureandbeatuntilcombined.
4.Usinglightlyflouredhands,rollthedoughinto30ballsslightlysmallerthanawalnut,gentlyflattenthemandplacethemonthepreparedbakingsheets.Using1or2fingers,pressdowninthemiddleofeachonetomakeashallowindent.Placea½teaspoonofjamanda½teaspoonofpeanutbutterineachindent.
5.Bakefor10–12minutes,untilpalegolden.Usingaspatula,transferthebiscuitstoawireracktocoolbeforeserving.
DULCEDELECHEBISCUITSMAKES8
Alsoknownas‘alfajores’,thesecrumblyshortbreadbiscuitsarepopularalloverSouthAmerica,fromArgentinatoPeru.TheywerebroughtoverbytheSpanish,whointurnwereintroducedtothembytheMoorsofNorthAfrica.Thesecretoftheirmore-ishness(sorry!)isthedulcedeleche(sweetcaramel)usedtosandwichthebiscuitstogether.Ifyouwanttotakethemtoanotherlevel,rollthemindesiccatedcoconutaroundtheedgesjustbeforeserving.
150ggranulatedsugar
250gsaltedbutter,softened
1largefree-rangeegg
1vanillapod,splitopenandseedsscrapedout
250gplainflour,plusextraforrolling90gcornflour½tspbakingpowder250gdulcedelecheorcondensedmilkcaramelIcingsugar,fordusting
1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Line2bakingsheetswithbakingpaper.
2.Putthesugarandbutterintoabowlandbeatwithanelectricwhiskuntillightandfluffy.Beatintheeggandvanillaseeds.
3.Sifttheflour,cornflourandbakingpowderoverthebuttermixtureandmixtogetheruntiladoughforms.
4.Usinglightlyflouredhands,dividethedoughinto16equalpiecesandrollintoballs.Placethemonthepreparedsheets,spacingthemwellapart,thenpressdownwiththepalmofyourhandtoflattenslightly.Chillfor10minutesoruntilfirmtotouch.
5.Bakefor10–12minutes,untilthebiscuitsarepalegolden.Usingaspatula,transferthemtoawireracktocool.
6.Whencold,sandwichtheflatsidesofthebiscuitstogetherwithatablespoonofdulcedeleche,anddustwithicingsugartoserve.
HOWTOMAKEDULCEDELECHEDulcedelecheisavailableinmostsupermarkets.Tomakeyourown,piercethetopofacanofcondensedmilkintwoplacesandthenplaceitinsimmeringwater,beingcarefulthewaterdoesn’tcometothetopofthecan,forthreetofourhours.Leavetocoolbeforeopening.
CRANBERRY,MARSHMALLOWANDPEANUTCHOCOLATEFRIDGECAKEMAKES14PIECES
Afridgecake,ortiffin,asitisalsoknown,isperfectformakingwithchildrenbecauseitdoesn’tneedbaking.Feelfreetoexperimentwithanycombinationofdriedfruitandnutsyoulike:raisins,cherries,blueberries,walnutsandhazelnutswouldallworkwell.Youcanalsostorethisinthefreezer,makingittheperfectcaketotakeonapicnic.Simplyputitinachillerbagwhereitwillactasanicepackuntilyouarereadytosliceit.
100gbutter,cubed
300gmilkordarkchocolate,asyouprefer
4tbspgoldensyrup
200gdigestivebiscuits
75gminimarshmallows75gdriedcranberries75gsaltedpeanuts,roughlychopped
1.Lightlygreaseandlinea16×26mmbakingtraywithgreaseprooforbakingpaper,leavingagenerousoverhangsothatthepaperwillcoverthetopofthefinishedcake.
2.Gentlymeltthebutter,chocolateandgoldensyrupinasaucepanoveralowheat.Removefromtheheatimmediatelyandallowtocoolslightly.
3.Meanwhile,placethedigestivesinamixingbowlandbreakintosmallchunks.
4.Stirthebiscuits,marshmallows,cranberriesandpeanutstogether.Pourinthechocolatemixtureandmixwell.Spoonintothepreparedbakingtrayandpressdownwithaspatula.Foldtheoverhangingpaperoverthetopofthecakeandusingyourhandspressdownhardtocompactthemixture,thenplaceinthefridgetoset.Alternatively,placeinthefreezerandstoreuntilwanted.
5.Toserve,removefromthebakingtrayandsliceintopieces.
CHOCOLATEANDMINTCARAMELCAKESERVES8–10
Everyfamilyneedsagoodchocolatecakerecipeforspecialoccasions,andthisismine,inspiredbytheIcebreakerchocolateandmintbarsIenjoyedasachild.Ithasnoflourinit,usingbeateneggwhitestogiveitaliftinstead,soitmaysinkalittleaftercomingoutoftheoven.Don’tworry,noonewillnoticeonceyou’veaddedthetopping.
275gcastersugar
Largehandfulofmintleaves,finelychopped250gdarkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),brokenintopieces
125gunsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing
6free-rangeeggs(4separatedand1yolksavedforuseinanotherrecipe)Flavourlessoile.g.groundnutFORTHETOPPING
400mldoublecream
4tbspicingsugar
6–8dropsofpeppermintextract
1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Lightlygreaseabakingtraywithalittlegroundnutoil.Lightlygreasea23cmspringformcaketinandlinethebasewithbakingpaper.
2.Pour100gofthecastersugarintoalargefryingpanandplaceitoveramediumheat,shakingthepanoccasionally,butnotstirring,toensureitmeltsevenly.Onceithasturnedadeepgoldencolour,scatteritwiththemintleavesandtipontothepreparedtray.Setasidetocool.Whencoldandfirm,breakhalfthecaramelintopiecesandplaceinabowl.Usingtheendofarollingpin,crushthemintoverysmallpiecesandsetaside.Breaktheremainingcaramelintosmallshardsandreservefordecoration.
3.Meltthechocolateinabowlthatfitssnuglyoverapanofgentlysimmeringwater.(Thebowlmustnotactuallytouchthewater.)Addthebutterandstiruntilmelted.Setasidetocoolslightly.
4.Beat2wholeeggsand3eggyolkswith75gofthecastersugaruntilthick,lightandfluffy.Foldinthechocolatemixture,thenfoldinthecrushedcaramel.
5.Inanotherbowl,whisktheeggwhitesintosoftpeaks,thenaddtheremaining100gcastersugaralittleatatimeuntilitisallincorporated.Themixtureshouldbeinstiff,glossypeaksthatholdtheirshape.
6.Foldaspoonfulofthewhitesintothechocolatemixture,thencarefullyfoldintherestofthem.Spoonintothepreparedtinandbakefor35–40minutes,untilthecakehasrisenandthecentreisnolongerwobbly.Setasidetocoolinthetin.Don’tworryifthemiddlesinksalittle–thisoftenhappenswithflourlesscakes.Whencold,transferthecaketoaservingplate.
7.Tomakethetopping,putthecreamintoabowl,sifttheicingsugaroveritandaddthepeppermintextract.Whisktogetheruntilthecreambeginstothickenandjustholdsitsshape–takecarenottooverwhip.
8.Spoonthetoppingoverthesurfaceofthecake,leavinganarrowborderaroundtheedgetomakeforneatercutting.
9.Scatterthereservedcaramelshardsontopandserve.
SALTEDCARAMELPOPCORNSERVES4
Thisshowsthatthere’snofoodthatcan’tbegivenabitofamakeover.Popcorn’sbecomeapartofourFridaymovienightroutineathomeandthechildrenhavegotolderthey’vedevelopedatastefortheslightlymoregrown-upflavourofsaltedcaramel.
100gdriedcornkernels
200ggoldencastersugar
1tspflakedseasalt
25gsaltedbutter
½tspbicarbonateofsodaFlavourlessoil,e.g.groundnut,forgreasing
1.Cookthecornaccordingtothepacketinstructions.Discardanykernelsthathavenotopenedandsettherestaside.
2.Placetheemptypopcornpanoveramediumheatandaddthesugarandsalt.Heatuntilthemixturecaramelises,swirlingthepanratherthanstirring,untilthecaramelisamid-goldencolour.Stirinthebutterandcookgentlyforafurther30seconds.
3.Lowertheheatandcarefullyaddthebicarbonateofsoda:themixturewillbubbleup.Stiruntilcombined,thenimmediatelyremovefromtheheat,addthecookedpopcornandstiruntilitiswellcoated.
4.Tipthepopcornontoagreasedbakingtrayandleaveatroomtemperaturetoharden.Donotputthemixtureinthefridgeoritwillbecomesticky.Oncecooledandcrisp,breakanylargechunksintosmallpiecesandstoreinanairtightcontainer.
MAKINGCARAMELIfyouarenotconfidentaboutmakingcaramel,youmayfinditeasiertoavoidusinganon-stickpanastheblackcoatingmakesithardertoseethecolourofthecaramelchanging(youarelookingforarichcoppercolour).Ifyoudoburncaramel,youhavetostartagain.Thereisnowayofdisguisingthebittertaste.
THISCHAPTERISPROBABLYTHEMOSTIMPORTANTONEINTHEBOOKBECAUSEITISAIMEDATTHEVASTMAJORITYOFTHECOOKINGWEDO.
Formostofusthat’sacasualsupperforthewholefamilythatcanbeputtogetherwiththeminimumoffussanynightoftheweek.I’vefilleditwithfamilyfavouriteslikefishandmushypeas,wholeroastchicken,shepherd’spie–thekindoffoodTanaandIsitdowntoasoftenaswecanwithMegan,Jack,HollyandTilly.Except,ofcourse,I’veaddedplentyoftwistsalongthewaybecausethesecrettogoodcookingistokeepitfreshandexciting.Itmakesitmoreinterestingforthecookanditmakesitmoreinterestingfortheirfamily.Everyoneisawinner.Sothebatteronthefishisperkedupwithgingerbeer,theroastchickenisstuffedwithgarlickychickpeas,theshepherd’spiehasgotacheesychamptopping.Therereallyis
chickpeas,theshepherd’spiehasgotacheesychamptopping.Therereallyisnodishthatcan’tbegivenanewspin.
Whatwereallywantfromday-to-daycookingiseaseandeconomy.Wewantsimpledishesthattastegoodanddon’tcosttheearth.ATuesdaynightwhenyou’relatebackfromworkandthechildrenstillhaven’tdonetheirhomeworkisnotimetobecomposingcomplicateddishesthatneedhoursofpreparation.Thatdoesn’tmeanyoushouldn’tmakethemthebestyoucan.Whatwereallywantfromday-to-daycookingiseaseandeconomy.Wewantsimpledishesthattastegoodanddon’tcosttheearth.ATuesdaynightwhenyou’relatebackfromworkandthechildrenstillhaven’tdonetheirhomeworkisnotimetobecomposingcomplicateddishesthatneedhoursofpreparation.Youwantsomethingquickandsimple.Butthatdoesn’tmeanyoushouldn’tmakeitthebestyoucan.
Togiveyourselfthebestheadstart,alwaysplanahead,soyouknowexactlywhatyouarecooking.Intherestaurantworld,wecallthis“menuplanning”(athomeyou’llsimplycallit“decidingwhattoeat”)anditisthesecretofeverywell-runkitchenasitallowsyoutoworktofullcapacity.Getthisrightandtheeaseandeconomybitwillautomaticallyfollow.I’lllookatmenusweekbyweek,butevenathome,it’susefultothinkofmealsinblocksoftwoorthreedays.It’snotjusttheobviousthingslikeensuringyouhavealltherightingredients,butmorefundamentallyit’saboutmakingsureyouchoosethekindofcookingyoucancopewith.Eveninaprofessionalkitchen,wherewehavetheluxuryoflargebrigadesofchefs,withdozensofstarters,mainsanddessertstogetout,themenuchoiceisdictatedbywhatwecanachieve.Wehavetomakesuretheworkloadisspreadoverthedifferentsections,coldstarters,meat,fishetc.Youhavetomakeasimilarcalculationathome,albeitonasmallerscale.Ifyouarecateringforlargenumbers,goforsomethingsimplelikeahotpot,whichdoesn’tneedanylast-minutefussingover.Ifyouhavetheluxuryofsomesparetimeduringtheday,goforsomethingthatcanbemadewellahead,likeslow-roastedbeefbrisket.Iftimeisshort,trysomethingquicklikearisotto.Theotheradvantageofforwardplanningisthatyoucanincorporateleftoversintosubsequentmeals.RoastlambonaSunday?Itmakessensetoplanashepherd’spieontheMonday.
Theotherthingthatstackstheoddsinyourfavouristostartwiththebest,seasonalingredients.Butremember,thatdoesn’tnecessarilymeanthemostexpensive–there’llbeplentyoftimeforthatinthenextchapteraboutmoreshow-stoppingsuppers.Thekeyhereistobuynon-premiumcutsof
meatorlesspopularfish,usevegetablesinseason(seechartoverleaf),whenthey’llbecheaperandtastier,andcookwithattitude,injectingasmuchflavouraspossible.Andtoensureyouhavethewherewithaltodothemjustice,makesureyouhaveawell-stockedstorecupboardandfreezer.
STORECUPBOARD
WhatI’mlookingforhereisarangeofingredientsthatwillallowmetotakemycookingindifferentdirections,soontopoftheabsolutebasicssuchasoliveoil,winevinegar,seasaltandblackpepper,I’dincludethingslikeEnglishandFrenchmustard,flour,cornflour,tinnedtomatoes,tinned
EnglishandFrenchmustard,flour,cornflour,tinnedtomatoes,tinnedanchovies,tinnedchickpeas,tinnedkidneybeans,soysauce,Worcestershiresauce,spices(cinnamon,cumin,coriander,curry,paprika,fivespice),casterandicingsugar,honey,oatmeal,mixednuts,pulsesandgrains.
Backintheolddays,almostallourcarbohydratescamefrompotatoesandbread.Nowwehavesomuchmoretochoosefrom,eachofwhichcanaddvarietytothesuppertable:polenta,whichisanItaliancornmealmadewithdriedmaize(Iusetheinstantvarietyathomeasitisreadyintenminutes);couscous(again,usetheinstantvariety);quinoa,barleyandPuylentils,whichareallprettymuchinterchangeablebutbringadifferentflavourandtexturetoadish;longgrainrice(Basmatioutofpreference),risottorice(IlikeCarnarolibest)and,ofcourse,pastasandnoodles,whicharenotonlyessentialtoItalianandChinesecooking,butcanalsobeusedtobulkoutsoupsandcasseroles.
FREEZERGreenvegetablessuchasbroadbeansandpeas(evenduringtheirseason,itisbettertobuyfrozenthanthosetired‘fresh’podsyouseeonsupermarketshelves);lotsofchickenandvegetablestock(seethechapteronsoupsfordetails),frozenintoconvenientsizes;breadcrumbs,notjusttocoatfishorchicken,buttoscatteroveramacaronicheesebeforebakingortomakepangrattato(friedinoilwithgarlic,anchovies,parsleyandchilliandtippedoverpasta).
SEASONALCHART
JANUARY.Brusselssprouts,cabbage,carrots,celeriac,celery,greens,Jerusalemartichokes,kale,leeks,onions,parsnips,potatoes,shallots,squash,swede,turnips.
FEBRUARY.Beetroot,broccoli,Brusselssprouts,cabbage,carrots,cauliflower,celeriac,chard,chicory,Jerusalemartichokes,kale,kohlrabi,leeks,onions,parsnips,potatoes,shallots,springgreens,swede.
MARCH.Beetroot,broccoli,carrots,cauliflower,celeriac,chicory,leeks,mint,radishes,sorrel,springonions.
APRIL.Carrots,kale,radishes,spinach,watercress,wildgarlic.
MAY.Asparagus,purple-sproutingbroccoli,broadbeans,cabbages,carrots,lettuce,newpotatoes,radishes,springonions.
JUNE.Artichokes,asparagus,aubergines,beetroot,broadbeans,broccoli,cabbages,carrots,cauliflower,courgettes,cucumber,garlic,lettuce,onions,peas,peppers,potatoes,radishes,spinach,turnips.
JULY.Artichokes,beans,beetroot,broccoli,cabbages,carrots,cauliflower,cucumber,fennel,garlic,lettuce,onions,peas,potatoes,radishes,rocket,shallots,spinach,springonions,turnips,watercress.
AUGUST.Artichokes,aubergines,beans(broad,Frenchandrunner),beetroot,broccoli,cabbages,carrots,cauliflower,courgettes,cucumber,fennel,garlic,leeks,lettuce,onions,peas,potatoes,pumpkins,radishes,rocket,shallots,spinach,squash,sweetcorn,tomatoes,turnips,watercress.
SEPTEMBER.Aubergines,beans(broad,Frenchandrunner),beetroot,broccoli,cabbages,carrots,cauliflower,courgettes,cucumber,fennel,garlic,kale,leeks,lettuce,onions,peas,potatoes,pumpkins,rocket,spinach,squash,swede,sweetcorn,tomatoes,turnips,watercress.
OCTOBER.Artichokes,aubergines,beans,beetroot,broccoli,Brusselssprouts,cabbage,carrots,cauliflower,celeriac,celery,courgettes,cucumber,fennel,garlic,kale,leeks,lettuce,onions,parsnips,potatoes,pumpkins,rocket,spinach,squash,swede,tomatoes,turnips.
NOVEMBER.Beetroot,purple-sproutingbroccoli,Brusselssprouts,cabbage,carrots,cauliflower,garlic,Jerusalemartichokes,kale,leeks,lettuce,onions,parsnips,potatoes,spinach,squash,swede,turnips.
DECEMBER.Beetroot,Brusselssprouts,cabbage,carrots,cauliflower,garlic,Jerusalemartichokes,kale,leeks,onions,parsnips,potatoes,pumpkins,spinach,squash,swede,turnips.
GRIDDLEDPOLENTAWITHROASTEDVINETOMATOESANDGOAT’SCURD
BLOODYMARYLINGUINE
LAMBKOFTASWITHMINTANDYOGHURTDRESSING
BEETROOTHOUMOUSWITHZA’ATARSPRINKLE
BUTTERMILK-FRIEDCHICKEN
QUICKSWEETPICKLEDCELERY
HOME-MADEFISHFINGERS
SAUSAGEANDCARAMELISEDREDONIONHOTPOT
POTATOANDBEETROOTGRATIN
SHEPHERD’SPIEWITHCHEESECHAMPTOPPING
BRAISEDPEASANDCARROTSWITHMINTBUTTER
CHILLI-MINTEDMUSHYPEAS
GINGERBEER-BATTEREDFISH
BEEFSTEWWITHMUSTARDSUETDUMPLINGS
TWICE-BAKEDBUBBLEANDSQUEAKJACKETPOTATOES
ROASTEDBEETROOTANDTHYMERISOTTO
ROASTCHICKENWITHCHICKPEASTUFFINGANDBIGGREENSALAD
CRISPYROASTDUCKWITHCHINESEPANCAKESANDDIPPINGSAUCE
HOISINANDCUCUMBERSALAD
BARBECUE-STYLESLOW-ROASTEDBEEFBRISKET
CRUNCHYLIGHTCOLESLAW
SPICEDSWEETPOTATOWEDGES
BLOODYMARYLINGUINESERVES4
Thismakesanunusualstarterormainandjustshowshoweventhemostfamiliardishes–inthiscasepastaandtomatosauce–canbeupdated.BloodyMaryisoneofmyfavouritedrinks,soIthought,whynotincorporatethesameflavoursontheplate?Thealcoholallevaporatesbutitaddsarichnesstothesauce.AsarealtreatIsometimesservethiswiththeGrilledLobsterwithChilli,GarlicandParsleyButter.
Oliveoil,forfrying1redonion,peeledandfinelydiced
1garlicclove,peeledandcrushed
1–2tbspWorcestershiresauce
1tspTabascosauce
½tspcelerysalt
1tspcastersugar
1×400gtinbest-qualitychoppedtomatoes50mlvodka400gdriedlinguine
FORTHETOPPINGOliveoil,forfryingLargehandfulofwhitebreadcrumbs
1tbspfinelychoppedparsley
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1.Firstmakethetopping.Placeasmallfryingpanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoliveoil.Whenhot,frythebreadcrumbswithapinchofsaltandpepperuntilgolden.Stirthroughtheparsley,transfertoabowlandsetaside.
2.Placealargefryingpanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,sautétheonionwithapinchofsaltandpepperuntilsoftenedandturninglightgolden.Addthegarlicandcontinuetosautéfor2minutes.SeasontotastewiththeWorcestershireandTabascosauces,thecelerysaltandasprinklingofsugar.
3.Pourinthevodkatodeglazethepan,scrapingupthebitsfromthebottom.Addthetomatoes,bringtoasimmerandcookgentlyfor10–15minutes,untilreducedalittleandflavourful.Addalittlewaterifthesaucethickenstoomuch.
4.Meanwhile,cookthelinguineaccordingtothepacketinstructions.Whenaldente,drainandaddtothepanofsaucealongwithalittleofthepastawater.Mixwell,thendividebetweenwarmservingplatesandtopwiththeherbybreadcrumbs.Serveimmediately.
HOWTOMAKESILKYPASTASAUCESWheneveryoumakeapastadishwithasauce,alwaysreserveatablespoonortwoofthepastawaterandstiritintomakethesaucesilkysmooth.
LAMBKOFTASWITHMINTANDYOGHURTDRESSINGSERVES4
ThesespicyMiddleEasternmeatballsmakeagreatmidweeksuppereitherwithacrispgreensalad,orstuffedinsideawarmedpittabreadwithlettuce,cucumberandtomatoes.Eitherway,drizzleoverplentyofmintandyoghurtdressingtocounteractthespiceofthekoftas.MyBeetrootHoumouswithZa’atarSprinklealsoworkswellwiththisdish.
Oliveoil1onion,peeledandfinelydiced2garliccloves,peeledandcrushed2
tspcuminseeds,toastedandgroundChilliflakes,totaste500gmincedlamb
2tbspchoppedparsleyleaves
2tbspchoppedmintleaves
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
FORTHEDRESSINGSmallbunchofmint,leavesonly½tsptoastedcuminseeds2–3tbspnaturalyoghurtFreshlygroundblackpepper
1tbsplemonjuice
1.Placeasmallfryingpanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,sautétheonionandgarlicuntiltender.Addthecuminseedsandchilliflakesandcook,stirring,forabout2minutes.Setasidetocoolslightly.
2.Putthelambintoamixingbowl,addtheonionmixtureandchoppedherbsalongwithadrizzleofoliveoilandapinchofsaltandpepper.Mixwellwithyourhands.
3.Rollthelambmixtureintopiecesthesizeofgolfballsandflattenthemintopattiesabout1cmthick.Placeonaplatedrizzledwithalittleoil,anddrizzlethetopsofthepattieswithmoreoil,readyforcooking.Coverandchillforabout10minutestofirmup.
4.Meanwhile,makethedressing.Putthemintintoamortarandbashitwiththepestletobruiseit.Addtheremainingingredientsandmixwell.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary,thentransfertoaservingbowl.
5.Placeagriddlepanoveramediumhighheat.Whenhot,griddlethekoftasfor5–6minutes,turninghalfwaythroughsothatbothsidesarewellbrowned.
6.Servethekoftaswarmwiththedressingontheside.
HOWTOMAKEYOUROWNLAMBMINCEYoucanmakeyourownminceinafoodprocessor,usingtrimmedshoulder,bellyorneckfillet.Ifyoudonothaveamincingattachment,usethesharpcuttingblade,addingcubedmeatinstagesandusingthepulsebutton.Ifyouaddtoomuchmeat,orsettheprocessoroncontinuousspeed,themeatwillbecomemushy.
BEETROOTHOUMOUSWITHZA’ATARSPRINKLESERVES4–6
Houmoushasbecomealmostcommonplacenow–thestapleofmanyapackedlunchorpicnicbasket–sohere’sanicetwist.Thebeetrootaddscolour,ofcourse,butalsoalovelysweetness.Serveitwithgrilledmeats,suchastheLambKoftaswithMintandYoghurtDressing,orasadipwithcruditésormaybeSaffronFlatBreads.Za’atarisatypicallyLebanesespicemixofdriedherbs,sumacandtoastedsesameseeds.Youcanbuyitinsupermarkets,butit’smuchnicerwhenyoumakeyourown,ashere.
1tbspcuminseeds,toasted250gcookedchickpeas
250gcookedbeetroot,chopped
1tbsptahinipaste
1garlicclove,peeledandcrushedJuiceof1lemon1–2tbspoliveoilSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperToastedflatbreadsorpittabreads,toserve
FORTHEZA’ATARSPRINKLE1tspcuminseeds,toasted1tspsesameseeds
1tspgroundsumac
½tbspmarjoramleaves1.First,combinealltheingredientsfortheza’atarsprinkleandmixwell.Setaside.
2.Tomakethehoumous,grindthetablespoonofcuminseedstoapowderusingamortarandpestle.
3.Putthechickpeas,beetroot,tahiniandgarlicintoafoodprocessoralongwiththegroundcuminseedsandwhizuntilsmooth.Addatablespoonofoliveoil,halfthelemonjuiceandagoodpinchofsaltandpepperandwhizagain.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning(includingthelemonjuiceandoil)asnecessary.Ifthemixtureseemsabitthickandsticky,loosenitwithatablespoonorsoofwater.
4.Servethehoumousdustedwiththeza’atarsprinkle,andoffertoastedflatbreadsorpittabreadalongside.
USINGSPICESBuyyourspiceswholeandgrindthemasneededtoensuretheystayfresh.Storetheminairtighttinsorjarsinacool,darkplace.
BUTTERMILK-FRIEDCHICKENSERVES4
Traditionalsouthernfriedchickenissimplycoatedinseasonedflourandfried,butmarinatingthechickeninbuttermilkfirsttenderisesthemeatandgivesitalovelytangyflavour.Idon’tknowwhatthecolonelputsinhissecretblendofherbsandspices.Iusesmokedpaprika,garlicandcayennepepper,andI’lltellyou,itknocksthesocksoffhisversion.ThisislovelywithmyQuickSweetPickledCelery.
4free-rangechickenthighs
4free-rangechickendrumsticks
500mlbuttermilk
Flavourlessoil,e.g.sunflowerorgroundnut,fordeep-frying300gplainflour
1–2tspsmokedpaprika½tspgarlicpowder1–2tspcayennepepperSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.
Placethechickeninabowl,addthebuttermilkandagoodpinchofsaltandmixwell.Coverwithclingfilmandchillovernight,orforatleast30minutes.Bringbacktoroomtemperaturebeforecooking.
2.Oncereadytocook,poura1.5cmdepthofoilintoaheavy-basedsautépanorhob-proofcasseroledish.Placeoveramediumheatuntiltheoilreaches170°Coracubeofbreaddroppedintotheoilsizzlesandturnsbrownafter30seconds.
3.Puttheflouronaplateandmixwiththespicesandapinchofsaltandpepper.Removethechickenpiecesfromthebuttermilk,shakingoffanyexcess,thendipintheflour,makingsureallsidesarecoated.
4.Frythechickeninasinglelayer(youmightneedtodoitinbatches),turningconstantlyfor25–30minutes,untilevenlygolden.Drainonkitchenpaperandservewarm.
QUICKSWEETPICKLEDCELERYSERVES4–6ASASIDEDISH
ThisisaquickandeasypickletocutthroughtherichnessoftheButtermilk-friedChickenortogowithanycoldmeatsandcheeses.Youwantthecelerytokeepitscrunchsodon’tcookittoolong.Leavingitsittinginthesweetandsourpoachingliquormeansitwillstilltakeonplentyofflavour.Ifyouwanted,youcouldaddothervegetablessuchascarrotribbonsandslicedradishestomakeitmoresubstantial.
½headofcelery,trimmed100gcastersugar100mlwhitewinevinegar4–5cloves
1tbspmustardseeds
6blackpeppercorns
Seasalt
1.Separatetheceleryandcuteachstickdiagonallyintoslicesabout1cmthick.Setasideinalargebowl.
2.Placeasmallpanoveramediumheatandaddalltheremainingingredients,including50mlwaterandapinchofsalt.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerandstiruntilthesugarandsalthavedissolved.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Youwantabalancebetweensourandsweet.Allowtocooluntilwarm.
3.Pourthepicklingliquidovertheceleryandleavetocoolcompletelybeforeeating.Ifplacedinasterilisedairtightjar(seetip)andstoredinthefridge,thepicklewillkeepforuptoamonth.
HOWTOSTERILISEGLASSJARSTosterilisejars,andtheirlids,washthemthoroughlyandallowtodryonacleanteatowel.Preheattheoventoitslowestsetting,thenplacethejarsandlidsonatrayandheatintheovenfor30minutes.
HOME-MADEFISHFINGERSSERVES4
Igrewuponwhitefishsuchascod,butpollackisanotherwonderfulfish,perfectinmyhome-madefishfingers.I’musingpankobreadcrumbshere,whichareflakierthanothercrumbsandgivefriedfoodalightercoatingthatstayscrispyforlonger.Runningthecrumbsthroughwithdillmakesthefishfingersmorearomaticandtheylookfantastic.GivemetheseandachipbuttyandI’mlikeanine-year-oldkidagain.
500gwhitefishfillet,e.g.pollack,skinned4dillsprigs,leavesonly
100gpankobreadcrumbs
4tbspplainflour
2free-rangeeggs,beatenSunfloweroil,forfryingKnobofbutterSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1.Slicethefishintochunkyfishfingershapes.Sprinklelightlywithsalt,thencoverandplaceinthefridgefor20–30minutestofirmup.
2.Finelychopthedillandmixwiththebreadcrumbsinashallowbowl.Puttheflourintoanothershallowbowlandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Putthebeateneggsintoathirdbowl.
3.Usingkitchenpaper,rubanyexcesssaltoffthefish.Dustthefishpiecesinflourandshakeoffanyexcess,thendipintheegg,makingsureallthesidesarecoated.Allowanyexcesstodripoff,thencoverinthedillbreadcrumbs.
4.Placealargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramedium-highheatandaddenoughsunfloweroiltolightlycoatthebottom.Whenhot,shallow-frythefishfingersoneithersidefor3minutes.Addthebuttertowardstheendofthecookingtimetohelpthefishfingerscrispupandturnadeepgoldencolour.
5.Drainonkitchenpaperifnecessaryandseasonwithapinchofseasaltbeforeserving.
SAUSAGEANDCARAMELISEDREDONIONHOTPOTSERVES4
Richandsweetwithwineandcaramelisedonions,thistakesthehumblehotpottoanotherlevelandwouldbejustthethingtohavegentlywarmingintheovenafterafireworksdisplayoralongwinterwalk.ServewithbutteredcabbageandpotatoesormyPotatoandBeetrootGratin.
Oliveoil,forfrying
8best-qualityporksausages
2redonions,peeledandfinelysliced2knobsofbutter
1tbspsoftbrownsugar
3thymesprigs,leavesonly150gbuttonmushrooms,cleanedandquartered
2tbspagedbalsamicvinegar
200mlredwine
200mlbeefstockSmallhandfulofparsley,roughlychoppedSeasaltandfreshlyground
blackpepper1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Placealargehob-proofcasseroledishoveramediumheat.Addadashofoilandfrythesausagesuntilcolouredallover.Transfertoaplateandsetaside.
2.Addtheonionsandacoupleofknobsofbuttertotheemptycasseroledish.Stirinthesugarandthyme,thencookfor10–15minutesoveramediumheat,stirringnowandagainuntiltheonionsarecompletelycaramelised.Addthemushrooms,stir,andcontinuetocookfor5minutes.Pourinthevinegarandcookforafurther5minutes.
3.Addthecookedsausagesandredwinetothedish,bringtotheboilandbubblefor4–5minutestoburnoffthealcoholandreduceslightly.Addthestock,bringtotheboil,thentransfertotheovenfor18–20minutesuncovereduntilthesausagesarecookedthroughandthesauceisthick.Sprinklethefinisheddishwithparsleyandserve.
POTATOANDBEETROOTGRATINSERVES4
Thisisalovelytwistontheclassicgratindauphinois,inwhichlayeredpotatoandbeetrootisgentlycookedingarlickycream.Iprefertousewaxypotatoesastheykeeptheirshapebetterbutwhateveryouuse,cutthemasthinlyaspossible,ideallyinafoodprocessorormandoline.Thebeetrootshouldbecutthickerbecauseithasalreadybeencooked.
1garlicclove,peeledandhalved
Butter,forgreasing750gpotatoes,peeled500gcookedbeetroot,peeled
500mldoublecream
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Rubtheinsideofa26×18cmbakingdishwiththecutsidesofthegarlic,thengreaseitwithbutter.
2.Slicethepotatoesverythinly.Cutthebeetrootintoslicesabout5mmthick.Heatthecreamgentlyoveramediumheatuntilhot.
3.Layerone-thirdofthepotatoesintotheprepareddish(savethebest-lookingpiecesforthetop).Coverwithhalfthebeetrootslicesandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Repeatbeforefinishingwithalastlayerofneatlyarrangedpotatoesandseasonagain.
4.Pourthehotcreamoverthedishandbakefor1hour,oruntilthepotatoesarecompletelytender.Ifthetopseemstobebrowningtooquicklytowardstheendofthecookingtime,coveritwithfoil.Servewarm.
HOWTOCOOKBEETROOTWrapthebeetrootsandagoodsprinklingofsaltinfoilandcookthemat180°C/Gas4foraboutanhour,oruntiltheyfeelsoftwhenpiercedwithaskewer.Leavethemtocoolalittlebeforepeeling.
SHEPHERD’SPIEWITHCHEESECHAMPTOPPINGSERVES6
IfIhadtochooseanall-timefavouritefamilyrecipe,itwouldbethis.Mymummadethebestshepherd’spie;theonlycomplaintsheevergotwasthattherewasn’tenough.Thesecretisinbrowningtheminceproperly.Remember:nocolour,noflavour.AccompanywithBraisedPeasandCarrotswithMintButter.
Oliveoil,forfrying1kgmincedlamb2garliccloves,peeledandfinelychopped1onion,peeledanddiced
2leeks,trimmed,halvedlengthwaysandfinelysliced
1–2tbspWorcestershiresauce1tbsptomatopurée100mlredwine250mlchickenstock
2rosemarysprigs,leavesonly,chopped
SeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHETOPPING
750gpotatoes,e.g.MarisPiper,peeledandcutintochunks50gbutter3springonions,trimmedandfinelychopped
100gCheddarcheese,grated
50–100mlmilk(optional)1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Placealarge,widefryingpanorhob-proofcasseroledishoveramedium-highheat.Addadashofoilandfrytheminceinbatches,seasoningeachlot,untilwellbrowned.Addthegarlicforthelast2minutes.Transfertoaplate.
2.Putalittlemoreoilinthesamepanandcooktheonionandleeksoveramediumheatfor5–7minutes,untilcompletelysoftened.AddWorcestershire
saucetotaste,thenstirinthetomatopurée.
3.Returnthemincetothepanandstirwell.Pourinthewine,scrapingupanybitsfromthebottom.Bubbleforacoupleofminutestoburnoffthealcohol,thenaddthestockandbringtotheboil.Reducetoasimmer,thenaddtherosemaryandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Cookgentlyfor10–15minutes,untilthesaucehasreducedslightlyandtheflavoursarewellcombined.Setasidetocool.
4.Meanwhile,preparethetopping.Boilthepotatoesuntiltender,thendrainandmashuntilsmooth.Mixinthebutterandseasoning,thenaddthespringonionsandthree-quartersofthecheeseandmixagain.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Ifthemashistoodryaddasplashofmilktoloosen.
5.Putthelambmixtureintoa28×22cmbakingdishandtopwiththemashedpotato.Sprinklewiththeremainingcheeseandalittlesaltandpepper.Bakefor15–20minutesoruntilthepotatoisgoldenbrownandthemeatisbubblingunderneath,andserve.
HOWTOCRISPUPMASHEDPOTATOWheneveryouneedtocrispupmashedpotato,runthetinesofaforkoverthepotatotoformlittleridgesthenputthepotatointheovenandbakeat180°C/Gas4untilgolden.Theridgeswillhelpthepotatotobrown.
BRAISEDPEASANDCARROTSWITHMINTBUTTERSERVES4
WhatelsedoyouservewithShepherd’sPiebutpeasandcarrots?Butnotjustanyoldpeasandcarrots.Iliketocooktheminbutterandstocktobringouttheirnaturalsweetness,andthentopthemoffwithmintedbutter.
Knobofbutter250gbabycarrots,cleanedandtrimmed300mlchickenorvegetable
stock
200gfrozenpeas
SeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHEMINTBUTTER
100gbutter,atroomtemperature
6mintsprigs,leavesonly,finelychopped
1.Firstmakethemintbutter.Puttheingredientsforitintoabowl,addafewtwistsofpepperandmixwell.Wrapinclingfilmandrollintoasausageshape.Chilluntilrequired.
2.Putalargeknobofbutterinaheavy-basedsautépanandplaceoveramediumheat.Whenmelted,addthecarrots,tosswellandaddsomesaltandpepper.Pourinthestock,coverthepanwithalidandcookgentlyfor6–7minutes.
3.Addthepeastothepan(plusalittleextrastockifneeded)andcontinuetocookfor3–4minutes,untilthepeasarecookedthroughandthecarrotsaretender.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.
4.Transferthepeasandcarrotstoaservingdish.Unwrapthemintbutter,sliceintodiscsandplaceafewontopoftheveg.(Anyleftoverbuttercanberewrappedandstoredinthefridgeforuptoaweek.)Serveimmediately.
CHILLI-MINTEDMUSHYPEASSERVES4
Traditionallymadewithmarrowfatpeas,hereIamusingthefreshergardenpeas,lightlycrushedwithapotatomasherorthebackofafork.Continuingthespicetheme,I’veaddedalittlechillitothese–plus,ofcourse,plentyofbutterandmint.PerfectwithGingerBeer-Batteredfish.
Oliveoil,forfryingButter1bananashallot,peeledandfinelydiced1redchilli,finelychopped1garlicclove,peeledandcrushed
400gfrozengardenpeas
4mintsprigs
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1.Placeaheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoilandaknobofbutter.Whenhot,addtheshallotandchilliandsautéfor2–3minutesbeforeaddingthegarlicandapinchofsalt.Sautégentlyfor6–7minutes,untilcompletelysoft.
2.Meanwhile,bringalargepanofwatertotheboil.Addthepeas,apinchofsaltand2mintsprigsandcookuntiltender.Drain,discardingthemint.
3.Addthepeastothepanofshallotmixture.Mixwell,thenroughlymashwithapotatomasher.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.
4.Finelyshredtheremainingmintleaves,mixthroughthepeasandserve.
GINGERBEER-BATTEREDFISHSERVES4
Fishandchipswithpeashasgottobetheultimatecomfortfood,butIdon’tthinkyou’llfindmytwistdownatyourlocalchippie.Addingacarbonatedliquidsuchaslagerorsparklingwatertoflourisacommonwayofcreatingalighter,moreaeratedbatterandthespiceingingerbeergivesitanextraedge.Useanartisangingerbeerifyoucan,whichwillbelesssweetandhavemoreofakick.Alternativelyaddapinchofgroundgingeralongwiththecayennepepper.ServewithChilli-MintedMushyPeas.
4meatyfilletsofsustainablewhitefish,trimmed(cod,pollock,haddockorcoleywillallworkequallywell)Flavourlessoil,e.g.groundnut,forfryingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHEBATTER
225gplainflour,plusextrafordusting
2tspbakingpowder
Pinchofcayennepepper
1tbspflavourlessoil,e.g.groundnut300mlgingerbeer
1.Placethefishonaplateandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Coverwithclingfilmandchillfor10minuteswhileyoumakethebatter.
2.Sifttheflourintoabowlandaddthebakingpowder,cayennepepper,adecentpinchofsaltandalittleblackpepper.Addtheoilandgingerbeer,stirringasyoudoso,untilthemixturehastheconsistencyofthickdoublecream.Leavetostandfor30minutes.
3.Pouraone-thirddepthofoilinalarge,deepsaucepan.Placeoveramediumheatuntilthetemperaturereaches160°C,oradollopofbatterspoonedintotheoilrisesimmediatelytothesurfaceandbubblesformaroundtheoutside.
4.Placeahandfulofflouronaplate,seasonwithsaltandpepperandcoatthefishinit,shakingoffanyexcess.Givethebatterastir,dipthefishinit,allowinganyexcesstodripoff,thenfryfor3–5minutes(dependingonthethicknessofthefish),untilthebatterisdarkgoldenandcrisp.Liftoutwithaslottedspoon,drainonkitchenpaperandseasonwithapinchofsalt.Keepwarmwhileyoucooktheremainingfishinthesameway.
5.ServethefishwarmwiththeChilli-MintedMushyPeasontheside,ifusing.
HOWTOCHOOSEFISHWhicheverfishyouuse,makesureitiscertifiedbytheMarineStewardshipCouncil.It’sessentialthatwemanagemarineresourcescarefullyandthemostpowerfulwayofdoingthatisbymakingtherightbuyingchoices.
BEEFSTEWWITHMUSTARDSUETDUMPLINGSSERVES4
ThisrecipeshowcasesBritishcookingatitsbest:beautifulbeefslow-cookedinbeerandtoppedwithlight,fluffydumplings.It’squitebeautifulandjustthesortofrecipeeveryoneshouldhaveintheirrepertoire.Youcouldequallyuseredwineinsteadofbeerifyoulike,andthedumplingsaren’tessential,butIdourgeyoutogivethematry.ServewithbutterycarrotsandgreensorwithmyTwice-BakedBubbleandSqueakJacketPotatoes.
700gbraisingbeef,cutintochunks2tbspplainflour,fordustingOliveoil,forfrying
2carrots,peeledandcutintothickslices150gpearlonionsorbabyshallots,peeledandtrimmed4garliccloves,bashed
4thymesprigs
3bayleaves
500mlbeerorale
2–3tsptomatopurée300mlbeeforchickenstockSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
FORTHEDUMPLINGS125gself-raisingflour,plusalittleextrafordusting75gsuet
1tbspwholegrainmustard
1.Preheattheovento150°C/Gas2.
2.Seasonthebeefwithsaltandpepper,anddustintheflour.Placealargehob-proofcasseroledishoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,brownthebeef(inbatchesifnecessary)untilcolouredonallsides.
3.Addthecarrots,onions,garlicandherbs,stirringoveramediumheatfor2–3minutes.
4.Pourinthebeertodeglazethepan,scrapingupthebitsfromthebottom.Boilfor2–3minutes,thenstirinthetomatopurée.Addthestockandbringtoasimmer.Mixwell,thencoverwithalidplacingitveryslightlyaskewtoallowsomesteamtoescape.Placeintheovenfor2½hours,untilthebeefisreallytender.
5.Meanwhile,makethedumplings.Placetheflourandsuetinabowl,addapinchofsaltandpepper,thenthemustard.Mixtocombine,thenaddatouchofwarmwaterandbringitalltogethertoformathickdough.(Addalittleextraflourifthemixturebecomestoowet.)6.Withflouredhands,rollthedoughinto8–12balls(dependingonthesizeyouprefer).
7.Removethestewfromtheovenandincreasethetemperatureto180°C/Gas4.Placethedumplingsinthestew,replacethelidandcookforafurther20–25minutes,untilthedumplingshavegrowninsizeandaresoftandtender.(Ifyoupreferyourdumplingstohaveacrisptop,don’tcoverthedishwhenreturningittotheoven.)Coolslightlybeforeserving.
TWICE-BAKEDBUBBLEANDSQUEAKJACKETPOTATOESSERVES4
Thesedeliciouspotatoesmakeagreatveggiemaincourseintheirownright,perhapswithalittlecheesegratedover,butarealsoagreatsideaccompanimenttoacasserolesuchastheBeefStewwithMustardSuetDumplings.Ioftenmakemash,ashere,bybakingratherthanboilingpotatoesasitresultsinafluffier,morepotato-yflavour.Andthejoyofthisrecipeisthatyoudon’twastetheskins.
4bakingpotatoes
¾headofSavoycabbage,finelyshredded3–4knobsofbutterSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheattheovento
180°C/Gas4.
2.Washanddrythepotatoesandbakeintheovenfor1hour,untilcookedthroughandcrispontheoutside.
3.Meanwhile,sautéthecabbageinalittlebutterandadashofwateruntiltender.Seasonwithsaltandpepperanddrainoffanyexcessmoisture.
4.Slicethebakedpotatoesinhalf.Scoopoutthefleshandtransferittoamixingbowl.Mashinacoupleofknobsofbutterwithafork.Addthecabbage,mixwell,thentasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Youmightalsoneedanotherknobofbutter,dependingonthekindofpotatoused.
5.Spoonthemashedpotatobackintotheemptyshells–itwillcomeabovetheedges,whichisgood–andplaceonabakingtray.Returntotheovenfor10–15minutes,untilthetopsaregoldenandcrisping.Servestraightaway.
ROASTEDBEETROOTANDTHYMERISOTTOSERVES4
Risottoshaveatrickyreputation,buttheyareactuallyverystraightforward.Youdoneedtoputinthearmwork,though,stirringcontinuouslyasthericecooks.Beetrootisawonderfulrootvegetablesopleasedon’tletchildhoodmemoriesoftheacidicpickledstuffputyouoff.Ithasalovelysweet,earthyflavourandwillstaintherisottoagloriouspurplecolour.Aperfectdishfornon-meateaters(don’tforget,vegetarianParmesanisreadilyavailable).
500gbeetroot,peeledandchoppedintochunks
Oliveoil,forroastingPinchofsugarDashofbalsamicvinegarSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFOR
THERISOTTOExtravirginoliveoil2bananashallots,peeled,halvedlengthwaysand
finelysliced2garliccloves,peeledandfinelysliced
4thymesprigs,leavesonly
250grisottoricee.gArborio150mlredwine800mlhotvegetablestock50gbutter
75gParmesancheese,grated
1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Placethebeetrootinaroastingtin,tosswithagoodglugofoliveoil,thesugar,saltandpepperandthebalsamicvinegar.Roastfor30minutes,thenaddadashofbalsamic,stirandcookforafurther10minutes,untiltender.
2.Meanwhilemaketherisotto.Placeawideheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheatandaddaglugofoliveoil.Whenhot,addtheshallotsandgarlic,seasonwithsaltandpepperandsautégentlyuntilsoftenedbutnotbrowning.Stirinthethyme,thenpourinthericeandstiruntilthegrainsbegintochange
colour.
3.Pourinthewinetodeglazethepan,scrapingupthebitsfromthebottom.Continuestirringfor2–3minutes,untilthericehasabsorbedthewine.Addaladlefulofhotstockandstiruntilabsorbed.Repeatthisprocessuntilyouthericeisjustcookedandhasarich,creamyconsistency.
4.Addtwo-thirdsofthetenderbeetrootchunkstotherisottoandstirthrough.
5.Turnofftheheatandstirinthebutterandthree-quartersoftheParmesan.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Toserve,dotwiththeremainingbeetroot,sprinklewiththeremainingParmesananddrizzlewithalittleoliveoil.
HOWTOMAKETHEPERFECTRISOTTOThekeyisnottofloodthericewiththestock,addingitalittleatatimesothatyouareincontrol.Thefinaladditionofbutterandparmesan–themantecatoastheItalianscallit–isanotheressentialpartoftheprocess.Addthemboth,givetherisottoagentlestirandputthelidbackonforafewminutestoallowthericetoabsorbtherichflavours.
ROASTCHICKENWITHCHICKPEASTUFFINGANDBIGGREENSALADSERVES4–6
ThisisthewayIusedtoeatroastchickeninFrance.Byslippingabeautifultarragonbutterundertheskin,younotonlykeepthebreastmoist,butallthatflavourgetsabsorbedbythechickpeastuffingaswell.Takethestuffingoutaftercookingandmixinthecookedgarlicandsomeofthevinaigretteand–Iguaranteeit–thosewillbethetastiestchickpeasyou’veeverhad.
1largefree-rangecorn-fedchicken(about2kg),gibletsremovedSmallbunchoftarragon,leavesroughlychopped200gbutter,atroomtemperature3headsofgarlic,halvedhorizontallyOliveoil,fordrizzlingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHESTUFFING
1×400gtincookedchickpeas,drainedandrinsed2redchillies,sliced1lemon,zested
3thymesprigs,leavesonlyOliveoilFORTHESALAD1butterlettuce,washed1lollorossolettuce,washed100gbabyspinach1ripeavocado,peeled,stonedandchoppedFORTHEDRESSING
1tbspbalsamicvinegar
1tbspDijonmustard
1tbsprunnyhoney
4–6tbspextravirginoliveoil
1.Preheattheovento200°C/Gas6.Seasontheinsideofthechicken.Placethetarragonandbutterinabowlandbeatuntilcombined.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Loosentheskinoverbothchickenbreastsbygentlypushingyourfingersunderneathit.Nowpushthetarragonbutterundertheloosenedskinsothatitcoversthewholecrown.
2.Tomakethestuffing,putthechickpeasintoabowl,seasonandaddthechillies,lemonzest,thymeleavesandadashofoliveoil.Mixwell.Spoonthechickpeamixtureinsidethechickencavityandplacethewholelemonattheentrance.
3.Placethegarlicheads,cutsidedown,inaroastingtin.Putthechickenontopanddrizzlewitholiveoil.Seasontheoutsideofthechickenwithsaltandpepperandroastfor10–15minutes,untilturninggoldenandbeginningtocrispup.Reducetheheatto180°C/Gas4andcontinueroastingfor1¼–1½hours,untilcookedthroughandgoldenallover.
4.Extractthelemonfromthecavityofthebirdandspoonthestuffingintoalargebowl.Placethechickenonawarmplatter,coverlooselywithfoilandsetasidetorestfor10–15minutes.
5.Meanwhile,separateallthelettuceleavesandtearanyreallylargeonesintopieces.Placeinasaladbowlalongwiththespinachandavocado.
6.Putallthedressingingredientsexcepttheoilintoabowlandwhiskwell.Addapinchofsaltandpepper,thenaddtheoilandmixuntilemulsified.Setaside.
7.Spoonthegarlicoutofthepanandsqueezethepulpintoasieveplacedoverthebowlofstuffing.Slicetheroastedlemoninhalfandsqueezethejuiceoverthegarlic.Pushthegarlicandjuicethroughthesievewiththebackofaspoon.Mashtheentirecontentsofthebowlwithapotatomasher,thenadd1tablespoonofthedressing.Mixwell,thentransfertoaservingbowlanddrizzlewithalittleextraoliveoil.
8.Add2tablespoonsofthedressingtothesalad,thentoss,tasteandadjustthe
seasoningasnecessary,addingalittlemoredressingifneeded.(Anyleftoverdressingcanbestoredinascrewtopjarinthefridge.)Serveimmediatelyalongsidetheroastchickenandstuffing.
CRISPYROASTDUCKWITHCHINESEPANCAKESANDDIPPINGSAUCESERVES4–6
Thisisabsolutelymyfavouritekindoffoodforasimple,help-yourselfsupper.Althoughtheduckneedsalongtimeintheoven,youreallycanputitinandforgetaboutit,anditwillhappilysitinthereabitlongerifyou’renotready.Thenyousimplypullitapartwithafork,heatthepancakesinthemicrowaveandleaveeveryonetotuckin.Addsomechilliflakestothedippingsauceifyoulikeithotor,ifyouarefeelinglazy,substituteitformoreoftheshop-boughthoisinsauceIuseintheaccompanyingHoisinandCucumberSalad.
1duck
4tbspChinesefive-spicepowder
4staranise
2garliccloves,bashed4cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandroughlysliced4springonions,trimmedandcutinhalf
20Chinesepancakes
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
FORTHEDIPPINGSAUCEGroundnutoil,forfrying2garliccloves,peeledandchopped3–4tbspblackbeansauce
2tspricevinegar
1–2tbspsoysauce½–1tbsprunnyhoney
1.Preheattheovento160°C/Gas3.
2.Cutoffanddiscardtheflapoffatthathangsovertheentrancetotheduck’sbodycavity.Pattheinsideofthecavitywithkitchenpaper,thenseasonwithsaltandpepper.Rubtheentireoutsideoftheduckwiththefive-spicepowder,massagingitintotheskin.Putthestaranise,garlic,gingerandspringonionsintothecavity.
3.Placetheduckonaracksetoveraroastingtinandroastfor160°C/Gas3for1hourthenturntheovendownto140°C/Gas1andcookforafurther2½–3hours,untilthefleshisreallytenderandtheskincrisp.
4.Meanwhile,makethedippingsauce.Placeasmallsaucepanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,frythegarlicuntiltenderbutnotcolouring.Add3tablespoonsoftheblackbeansauce,thevinegar,1tablespoonsoysauceand½tablespoonhoney.Mixwellandcookoveralowheatfor3–4minutes,untilwarmedthrough.Tasteandadjusttheflavoursasnecessary–youmightneedalittlemoresoysauceorhoney,dependingonthesaltinessorsweetnessoftheblackbeansauceyouareusing.Transfertodippingbowls.
5.Oncetheduckiscooked,transfertoaplate,coverlooselywithfoilandsetasidetorestfor15minutes.
6.Whentheduckhasrested,heatthepancakesaccordingtothepacketinstructions.Meanwhile,flakethemeatofftheduckbypullingitapartwithtwoforks.Servewiththedippingsauceandthewarmpancakes.
HOWTOMINIMISEFATWHENCOOKINGDUCKDuckislessmeatythanchickenbutitsrichflavourmeansitgoesfurther.Setitonatrivetwhenroastingasalotofthefatwillrenderoffasitcooks.
HOISINANDCUCUMBERSALADSERVES4
Duckpancakesarealwaysservedwithcucumberandspringonioninrestaurants.Forsomereasontheyalwayscutthemintosmallmatchsticks,butIalwaysthinktheylookmuchmoreimpressivecutintoribbons,ashere.Ialsoliketoaddgemlettucetomakethesaladgofurther.
1largecucumber
4springonions,trimmed
2babygemlettuce
FORTHEDRESSING
2tbsphoisinsauce
2cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandgrated½tbspsoysauce½–1tbspricevinegar,ortotasteDashofsesameoil1.Trimtheendsoff
thecucumberandcutinhalflengthways.Scoopouttheseedswithateaspoon.Usingavegetablepeeler,cutthecucumberintolong,thinribbons.Placeinasaladbowl.
2.Thinlyjuliennethespringonions(seetip)andaddtothecucumber.Shredthelettucelengthwaysintolongthinstripsandmixwiththecucumberandonions.
3.Tomakethedressing,putalltheingredientsintoabowlwith2tablespoonscoldwater.Mixwell,tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Pouroverthesalad,tosswellandserveimmediately.
HOWTOCUTJULIENNESTRIPSJuliennearefinestripsaboutthesizeofmatchsticks.Tomakethem,peelandcoreyouringredient,asnecessary,thencutinhalforintoquarters.Placeflatsidedownonaworksurfaceandcutintoslicesabout5mmthick.Cuttheseslicesintomatchstick-sizedpieces.
BARBECUE-STYLESLOW-ROASTEDBEEFBRISKETSERVES
Liketheroastduck,thisisanotherslowandeasydishwhichamplyrewardsalittleforwardplanning.Yousimplyrubthebeefinspicesandsealitoverahighheat,caramelisesomeonionsandthenleaveittotakecareofitselfintheovenforthreeorfourhours.It’samazinghowmuchofabarbecueflavourittakesonwithoutyouhavingtogoanywherenearthecharcoal.ServewithCrunchyLightColeslawandSpicedSweetPotatoWedgesforatasteoftheDeepSouth.
1kgbeefbrisket,excessfattrimmedofftoleavejust1cm
2onions,peeledandsliced
6bayleaves
2tbsplightbrownormuscovadosugar1tbsptomatopurée1×300mlbottlelager350mlbeefstock1tbspcidervinegar(optional)
FORTHERUB2tspcayennepepper2tspmustardpowder2tspfreshlygroundcuminseeds
2tspceleryseeds
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1.Preheattheovento140°C/Gas1.
2.Firstmaketherub.Combinealltheingredientsforitinabowlandmixwell.Rubthemixturealloverthebrisket.
3.Placearoastingtinonthehobandaddaglugofoil.Whenhot,sealthebeefonallsidesuntilcoloured.Transfertoaplateandsetaside.
4.Addtheonions,bayleavesandsugartotheroastingtinalongwithapinchofsaltandpepper,andcookoveramediumheatuntiltheonionsaresoftandcaramelised.Addthetomatopuréeandstirfor1minute.Pourinthebeertodeglazethepan,scrapingupthebitsstucktothebottom.
5.Putthebrisketbackintothepanontopoftheonionsandpouroverthebeefstock.Bringtotheboil,thencovertightlywithfoilandtransfertotheovenfor3–3½hours,untiltender.Bastethebrisketeverynowandagainsothatthemeatisnicelyglazedinthepanjuices.
6.Transferthejointtoaservingdish,coverlooselywithfoilandsetasidetorestfor15–20minutes.
7.Meanwhile,placetheroastingtinoveramedium-highheattoreducethesauceaddingthecidervinegarifusing.Pouranyoftherestingmeatjuicesintothetinasyoudoso.
8.Toserve,slicethebrisketandspoonthesauceoverit.
CRUNCHYLIGHTCOLESLAWSERVES6–8
Sometimescoleslawmadewithmayonnaisecanbetooheavy,especiallyif,ashere,we’reteamingitwithrichbrisket.Keepitniceandlightwithamustardyyoghurtdressing.Theaimhereistoprovidesomecrunchtogowiththesucculentbrisket,sodressthevegetablesatthelastminutesotheyarestillcrisp.
¼headofredcabbage,coreandouterleavesremoved¼headofwhitecabbage,coreandouterleavesleavesremovedBunchofchives,finelychoppedFORTHEDRESSING
200gnaturalyoghurt
1tbspwholegrainmustard
1–2tspcidervinegarSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Finelyshredtheredandwhitecabbage.Placeinamixingbowl.Addthechivesandmixwell.
2.Combineallthedressingingredientsinabowl,mixwellandseasontotaste.Pouritoverthevegetables,tosswellandserve.
SPICEDSWEETPOTATOWEDGESSERVES4
Withtheircreamy,fluffyorangeflesh,sweetpotatoesmakeagreatalternativetotheregularpotato.I’venevergottheAmericanthingoftoppingthemwithmarshmallows,astheytypicallydoatThanksgiving,butcuttingthemintowedgesandrubbingtheminagroundspicemixworksreallywell.
1tspcorianderseeds
1tspsmokedpaprika
½tspcayennepepper½tspdriedoregano1kgsweetpotatoesOliveoil,fordrizzlingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheatandovento200°C/Gas6.
2.Toastthecorianderseedsinadrypanoveramediumheatuntilaromatic.Transfertoamortarandpoundwithapestleuntilbrokenup.Addadecentpinchofsalt,acoupleoftwistsofpepper,theremainingspicesandoregano.Mixwell.
3.Cutthesweetpotatoeslengthwaysintowedgesabout2.5cmthick.Placetheminaroastingtin,drizzlewithoilandtossuntilcoated.Sprinkleevenlywiththespicemixandtossagain.
4.Roastthewedgesintheovenfor15minutes,thenturnwithafishsliceandcookforafurther10–15minutes,untiltender.
HOWTOTOASTSPICESToastingspicesinadrypanforevenjustafewsecondsenhancesanddrawsouttheirfragrance.Becarefulnottoburnthemortheywillturnbitterandyou’lltasteitinthefinaldish.
THISISWHERETHEFUNHAPPENS,BECAUSEULTIMATELY,IFYOULOVECOOKING,WHATYOUREALLYWANTISANAPPRECIATIVEAUDIENCESATAROUNDTHEDININGROOMTABLE.
EvenafteralltheseyearsworkinginMichelin-starredkitchens,Istillgetahugebuzzfromthat,knowingthatallmyhardworkisbeingenjoyedbymyfriends.It’simportanttorealisethatI’mnottryingtoreplicatethethree-startreatmentathome,though.I’mnotheretopreparedifferenthorsd’oeuvres,tosendoutornatelyplatedupdishescookedtoorder,differentfishandmeatcourses,pre-dessertpalatecleansers...You’vegotrestaurantsforallthat.No,whatIliketoofferismoreaspiritofhospitality,wheremyguests
that.No,whatIliketoofferismoreaspiritofhospitality,wheremyguestscanseethatI’vegonetoaneffort,thatIwanttofeedthemwell,butnotsomuchthatI’mstuckinthekitchenallevening.
Ithinkhomecookssometimesgetintimidatedbythethoughtofcookingforabigcrowdofpeoplesotheygiveupandserveshop-boughtfoodinstead.But,trustme,withabitofplanningandgreatrecipesit’seasy.Menuplanningiscrucialhere.Youhavetoberealisticabouthowmuchyoucanachieveandmakethingsaseasyaspossibleforyourself.Ifyouaredoingthewholethree-courseaffair(whichpersonallyIdon’tthinkisalwaysnecessaryinthesemorerelaxedtimes)thenmakesureonecoursecanbedonewellinadvance–asouporsalad,forexample.Maybeservecheeseinsteadofpudding(Ialwaysthinkalargeblockofonecheeselooksmoregenerousthansmallportionsofseveralcheeses)orputsomebarsofgoodchocolateonthetableandletguestshelpthemselvesovercoffee.Thesearen’tfailuresofhospitality,theyarethesignsofaconfidenthostwhoknowsthatiftheyarerelaxed,alltheirguestswillberelaxedtoo.
Sowhatarethebestdishesformakingagoodimpression?Ithinkyoucangothreeways.First,andmostobvious,istothrowsomeluxuryatit.Itgetsexpensiveifyouarecookingforacrowd,obviously,butabeautifullobstertailorribofbeefwillalwaysturnamealintoaspecialoccasion.Alittletrufflegratedoveraplateofbutterytagliatelleissoeasy,butwillmakeyourguestsfeelspecial,especiallyifitisawhiteAlbatrufflefromItaly.IfusingablackPerigordtrufflefromFranceI’dbemorelikelytouseitasastuffing,alongwithsomebutter,betweentheskinandbreastmeatofachickenorguineafowl.
Alternatively,goforsomethingthatmightnotbethatluxuriousbutmakesanimpactwhenyoubringittothetable.I’dincludelargejointsofmeatsuchasalegoflamborarolledbellyofporkinthiscategory,ormaybemywholeSalt-crustSeaBream,whichhasarealsenseoftheatreaboutitasyoucrackopenthesaltcrustandallthosewonderfulsmellswaftout.Disheslikethisareidealforservinglargenumbersastheyareaseasytomakeforfourastheyarefor12–youjusthavetoadjustthecookingtime.It’snicetocarvemeatorfilletfishatthetable,butifthatmakesyounervousbyallmeanstakeitbacktothekitchentocarve.Bringitbackoutonalargeservingplatter,though,sotheeffectisn’tlost.
Thethirdrouteistoofferanembarrassmentofriches,almostaminibanquet,tounderscoreyourgenerosity.Iwasreallystruckbyhowseriously
theytakefamilyeatinginAsia,wheretheyallsitdowntogetherandputlotsofdishesinthemiddleofthetableforpeopletohelpthemselves.Ilovethatkindofentertaining.It’sverysocialandrelaxedandit’sanapproachwehaveadoptedinourhousetoo.Therewillbeabitmoreworktodobeforehand,preppingseveraldishes,buttherewardisahappybuzzaseveryonetucksin.TheStickySpicedChickenWingsareagoodexampleofthiskindofeating.Ontheirown,theymayseemabitasimplistic,butaddadishofstir-friedgreenbeanswithsoyandpeanutdressingandabowlofThairiceandyou’vegotanabsolutefeast.
SLOW-BRAISEDBEEFCHEEKSWITHPAPPARDELLE
CHICKENFRICASSÉE
SAUTÉEDPOTATOES
HERBYBUTTERBEANSALADWITHCRISPYPITTABREAD
POMEGRANATEMOLASSES-MARINATEDSPATCHCOCKQUAIL
SALT-CRUSTSEABREAM
BRAISEDLEEKSWITHHAZELNUTS
CHINESEBRAISEDOXTAIL
RADISHSALAD
GRILLEDLOBSTERWITHCHILLI,GARLICANDPARSLEYBUTTER
BEEFFILLETWITHSALSAVERDE
BAKEDNEWPOTATOESWITHTRUFFLEANDPARMESAN
STICKYSPICEDCHICKENWINGS
STIR–FRIEDGREENBEANSWITHSOYANDPEANUTDRESSING
THAIRICEWITHCURRYPASTEANDGREENHERBS
SLOW-COOKEDSMOKYPULLEDPORKBUTTWITHCHIPOTLEMAYO
CRUSHEDPOTATOESWITHSPRINGONIONSANDCHEESE
BROCCOLISLAW
STUFFEDRIBOFBEEF
HORSERADISHYORKSHIREPUDDINGS
AROMATICLAMBCHOPSWITHMINTYYOGHURT
CHARGRILLEDBROCCOLIANDBULGURSALAD
SLOW-BRAISEDBEEFCHEEKSWITHPAPPARDELLESERVES4–6
EveryItalianfamilyhastheirownversionofthefamoustomatoandmeatragú,typicallymadewithrabbitorwildboar.I’musingoxcheeksinstead,whicharecheapbutflavoursomeandwellworthyofanydinnertable.Don’tskimponthatcookingtime–it’sthesecretoftherichlycomplexsaucewhichelevatesthisdishfromitshumblebolognaisecousin.
Oliveoil,forfrying1kgbeefcheeksorstewingbeef1onion,peeledandroughlydiced
2garliccloves,peeledandroughlycrushed
1bayleaf
400mlredwine
1×400gtinchoppedtomatoes500mlbeefstock500gdriedpappardelleHandfulofparsley,finelychoppedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblack
pepper1.Preheattheovento150°C/Gas2.2.Placeaheavy-basedhob-proofcasseroledishoverahighheatandaddadashofoil.Seasonthebeefonbothsidesandbrownalloverinthehotpan.Transfertoaplateandsetaside.
3.Addtheonion,garlicandbayleaftotheemptypanandcookforacoupleofminutes,untilsoftenedandcolouringaroundtheedges.
4.Returnthemeattothepan.Addthewinetodeglazethepan,scrapingupthebitsfromthebottom.Stirinthetomatoesandthebeefstock,seasonwithalittlesaltandpepperandbringtoasimmer.
5.Coverthepanwithalidslightlyaskewtoallowsomesteamtoescape,andplaceintheovenfor3½–4hours,untilthemeatiscompletelytenderandthesaucerichandthick.Checktheliquidlevelafter2hours,toppingitupwithsomewaterifnecessary.
6.Cookthepappardelleinboilingsaltedwateraccordingtothepacketinstructions,untilaldente.Drainanddrizzlewitholiveoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.
7.Placealadelfulofsauceinthebottomofaservingdishandtopwiththepasta.Finishwiththebeef,shreddedifyoulike,inthesauce,andasprinklingofparsley.
HOWTOCOOKPASTAAlwaysusewell-saltedwatertocookpastabecauseitisimpossibletoseasonlater.TheItaliansalwaysuse10g(2teaspoons)saltforeverylitreofwater.Addingoliveoiltothecookingwaterishelpful,butifyoureallywanttoensurethatyourpastadoesn’tstickasitcooks,useplentyofwater
wanttoensurethatyourpastadoesn’tstickasitcooks,useplentyofwaterandtwistthepanfromsidetosideafewtimestogetthepastaswirlingaroundjustafteryou’veputitin.
CHICKENFRICASSÉESERVES4
‘Fricassée’isoneofthoseold-fashionedtermswhichbasicallyjustmeansbraised.HereI’mcookingajointedchickenwithsmokedbacon,garlicandmushroomsbeforeflambéingitinbrandyandpoachingitinarichchickenstock.Youcouldaddsomedoublecreamtowardstheendifyouwantedtoenrichthesaucebut,tobehonest,madewithaqualitychicken,itisalreadymyultimatehome-cookedFrenchdinner,especiallyifwhenitispairedwiththeSautéedPotatoes.
2tablespoonsoliveoil
1largefree-rangechicken,jointedinto8pieces(2drumsticks,2thighs,2breastscutinhalf)150gsmokedbaconlardons
4garliccloves,peeledandbashed150gchestnutmushrooms,halved1bayleaf
2rosemarysprigs
2thymesprigs,leavesonly75mlbrandy450mlchickenstockSmallhandfulofparsley,choppedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblack
pepper1.Placealargeheavy-basedsautépanoveramediumheatandaddtheoliveoil.Seasonthechicken,addtothehotpanandsautéfor3–4minutesononeside,untilgolden.Turnthechicken,thenaddthelardons,garlicandmushroomsandmixwell.Stirinthebay,rosemaryandthyme.
2.Addthebrandyand,verycarefully,tiltthehotpantowardsthelitgastoignitethealcoholandflambéthechicken.Thismustbedonecautiouslybecauseitwillcreateahugeflame.Allowittodiedown,thenlowertheheatslightlyandsimmergentlyfor2–3minutes.
3.Pourinthechickenstockandbringtoagentlesimmer.Cookuncoveredfor10minutes,thencoverandcookforafurther15–20minutes,untilallthechickenpiecesaredone.Transferthemtoaplate,thenincreasetheheatunderthepanforafewminutestoreduceandslightlythickenthesauce.Returnthechickentothepanandspoonthesauceoverit.
4.Beforeserving,discardthegarlic,rosemaryandbayleaf,andsprinklewiththechoppedparsley.
HOWTOMAKETHEMOSTOFHERBSFreshherbsareagreatwaytoaddmaximumflavouronalowbudget.Makethemlastlongerbystandingthestemsinaglassofwater.They’llkeepthiswayforupto2weeksinthefridge.
SAUTÉEDPOTATOESSERVES4
TheFrenchdidn’tinventthefriedpotato,buttheycertainlyknowhowtotakeittoanotherlevel.Theshallots,garlicandherbsalladdextrainterest,butit’sthegoosefatthatistherealstar,producingburnishedgoldenspuds.Ifyouaren’talreadyaconvert,dousegoosefatforthebestroastpotatoestoo.
5waxypotatoes,e.g.Desirée,unpeeledandsliced½cmthick
1tbspgoosefat
2bananashallots,peeledandfinelysliced3garliccloves,peeledandfinelysliced2rosemarysprigs
2thymesprigs
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1.Parboilthepotatoslicesinapanofsaltedboilingwaterfor5–6minutes.Drainandseasonwithsaltandpepper.
2.Placealargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheatandaddthegoosefat.Whenmeltedandhot,addthepotatoesandfryfor1–2minutesoneitherside,untilbeginningtobrown.Addtheshallotsandgarlic,seasonwithsaltandpepper,thenaddtheherbs(youmayneedtodothisinbatches).Continuecookinguntileverythingisniceandgolden.Servestraightaway.
HERBYBUTTERBEANSALADWITHCRISPYPITTABREADSERVES4
Ifyoudon’twantteenagers,especiallyhungryboys,toturnuptheirnosesatasalad,besuretopackitfullofcarbohydratestofillthemup.ThisLebanese-inspiredsaladincludesbothpittabreadandbutterbeans,whichmakeamellowcounterpointtothesharpnessofthelemonjuice,sumac(acitrus-flavouredcrushedberry)andpomegranateseeds.GreatforasummerpicnicwithgrilledmeatsorwithPomegranateMolasses-MarinatedSpatchcockQuail.
2largepittabreads
Oliveoil
1×400gtincookedbutterbeans,drained200gradishes,trimmedandhalved2–4springonions,trimmedandfinelychopped1cucumber,deseededandsliced4ripetomatoes,chopped
4celerysticks,finelyslicedSmallbunchofmint,leavesfinelychoppedBunchofparsley,roughlychoppedSeedsfrom1pomegranate
1tbspgroundsumac
Juiceof1lemonandzestof½Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Slicethepittabreadsinto
stripsandcutacrossthemtomakesquaresabout2×2cm.Heatalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheat.Addaglugofoilandfrythecubesinasinglelayer(youmightneedtodothisinbatches)untildarkgoldenandcrisp.Drainonkitchenpaperandseasonwithsalt.
2.Mixalltheremainingingredientstogetherinalargeservingbowl.Drizzlewitholiveoilandseasontotaste.Tossinthepittacubes,mixthroughandserveimmediately.
HOWTOMAXIMISELEMONJUICETogetthemaximumamountofjuicefromalemonorlime,rollithardunderyourpalmforaminutebeforejuicing.
POMEGRANATEMOLASSES-MARINATEDSPATCHCOCKQUAILSERVES4
ThisrecipeisfullofMiddleEasternflavours.Ilovethecombinationofspicesandsweetnessfromthepomegranatemolasses.Thelongeryoucanleavethequailtomarinatethebetter.Spatchcockingisagreatwayofpreparingquail,poussinorchicken.Byremovingthebackboneandflatteningthebirdsalongthebreastboneyoushortenthecookingtime,makingitidealforgrillingorbarbecuing.PairwithHerbyButterBeanSaladwithCrispyPittaBread.
1tbspcuminseeds
1tspcorianderseeds
2garliccloves,crushedOliveoil6tbsppomegranatemolasses
4spatchcockedquail
SeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperZestof1lemon,toserve1.Placeasmallpanoveramediumheat,addthecuminandcorianderseedswithapinchofsaltanddry-fryforabout2minutes,oruntilaromatic.Transfertoamortarandpoundwithapestle.
2.Addthegarlic,2tablespoonsoliveoilandthepomegranatemolassestothemortar.Mixwell,thentasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.
3.Seasonthequailandplaceinasinglelayerinabakingdish.Pourthemarinadeoverthem,ensuringthatallpartsarecovered.Coverwithclingfilmandmarinateinthefridgeforatleast30minutes,andupto24hours.
4.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.
5.Placealargeovenprooffryingpanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,putthequailintothepan,skinsidedown,andfryfor2–3minutes,untilsealedandlightlycoloured.Turnandcooktheothersidefor2–3minutes.Add100mlwater,thentransferthepantotheovenandcookfor12–15minutes,untilthequailarecookedthrough,darkgoldenandsticky.
6.Servesprinkledwithlemonzest.
HOWTOMAKEPOMEGRANATEMOLASSESYoucanbuypomegranatemolassesfromdelis,MiddleEasternshopsandsomesupermarkets,butitiseasytomakeyourown.Simplyboilupalitreofpomegranatejuicewith100gsugarandthejuiceofonelemon.Simmerforaboutanhouruntilsyrupy.Oncecooled,youcanstoreitforuptoamonthinthefridgeandaddtomarinades,dressingsandtagines.
SALT-CRUSTSEABREAMSERVES4
Cookingfishinsideasaltcrustisverytraditional.Thesaltinsulatesthefishfromtheextremesofheat,ensuringitcooksevenlyandsealsinalltheflavoursandjuices.Italsomakesforadramaticcentrepieceifyoucrackitopenatthetable.Andno,thefishwon’ttastesalty–thescalesprotectthefleshsoitremainssweetandsucculent.Youcanusethistypeofcookingformosttypesoffish,thoughit’snotidealforoilyvarietiessuchassalmonandmackerel.
2seabream(trygilthead,ifpossible),eachabout400–500g,guttedandcleaned,scaleson½tspfennelseeds
1lemon,sliced
1.5–2kgfineseasaltSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheattheovento
180°C/Gas4.
2.Seasonthestomachcavityofeachfish,thensprinkleinthefennelseedsandarrangethelemonslicesinside.
3.Mixthesaltwithabout100mlwateruntilitstartstoresemblewetsnow.Placea2cmlayerofthesaltmixtureinaroastingtinandsitthefishonittoptotail.Coverthemwiththeremainingsalt,pattingitdowntomakesuretherearenogaps.
4.Placeintheovenfor25minutes,oruntilthefisharejustcookedthroughandsmellaromatic,andthesalthasformedahardcrust.
5.Crackopenthesaltcrustbyhittingitwiththebackofaspoon,thencarefullyliftitoff.Peeloffanyskinremainingonthefish.Usingtheedgeofaspoon,runitdownthemiddleofthefleshandgentlypusheachfilletawayfromthebones:theyshouldcomeawayeasily.
BRAISEDLEEKSWITHHAZELNUTSSERVES4
Thissidedishisallabouttexture,withthesweet,softleeksenhancedbythecrunchofthetoastedhazelnuts.Thesecretistogetgoodcolourontheleeksbeforeaddingtheliquidasitaddsextraflavour.Itwouldgoreallynicelywithanyfishdish,suchasSalt-CrustSeaBream.
Oliveoil,forfrying4leeks,whitepartsonly,cutintopieces4–5cmlong2–3garliccloves,bashed
3thymesprigs
Knobofbutter
150mlwhitewine50gblanchedhazelnuts,toastedandroughlycrushedorchopped
2tbspchoppedparsley
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1.Placeaheavy-basedsautépanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,addtheleeksandsomeseasoning,thencookfor3–4minutes,turningfrequently,untiltheyarearichgoldencolouronatleasttwosides.
2.Addthegarlic,thymeandbutter.Oncethebutterhasmelted,addthewineandbringtotheboil.Partiallycoverthepan,lowertheheatandsimmergentlyfor12–15minutes,untiltheleeksaretenderbutstillholdingtheirshape.Ifthereisalotofliquid,removethelidforthelast5minutesofcookingtimeinordertoreduceit.
3.Transferthebraisedleekstoaservingdish,sprinklewiththehazelnutsandparsley,andpouranycookingjuicesoverthetop.
HOWTOCOOKLEEKSDon’tcompletelycoverleekswhenyoucookthemorthecondensationwillmakethemwaterloggedandmushy.Forbestresults,youwantthesteamtobeabletoescape.
CHINESEBRAISEDOXTAILSERVES4–6
AlotofChinesecookinginvolvesquickstir-fryingoverhighheat,buttheyalsohavealongtraditionofslowbraises.Thecombinationofmeltingoxtailandwarmingspiceiswonderfulonawinter’snight.IliketoservethiswithbutterednoodlesandtheRadishSalad.
2kgoxtailpieces,anylumpsoffattrimmedoffPlainflourOil,forfrying4garliccloves,peeledandcrushed1onion,peeledand
diced1redchilli,sliced1fennelbulb,diced4cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandsliced4tbspsoysauce
1tspcorianderseeds
4wholestaranise
4tbspChinesericewineordrysherry850mlchickenstockSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheattheovento
160°C/Gas3.Dusttheoxtailinflour,shakingoffanyexcess,seasonwithsaltandpepper.Placeaheavy-basedhob-proofcasseroledishonamediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,addtheoxtailandcrushedgarlic,andfryonallsidesuntilbrowned.It’sbesttodothisinbatches.Transferthemeattoaplateandsetaside.
2.Addalittlemoreoiltothepan.Whenhot,addtheonion,chilli,fennel,ginger,soysauce,corianderseedsandstaranise.Sautéforaminutethenaddthericewinevinegarandcookforafurther2minutesbeforeaddingthemeatbackintothepan.
3.Addthestockandbringtoasimmer.Coverwithalidandplaceintheovenfor2½–3hours,turningtheoxtailpiecesoccasionally,untilthemeatisreallytender.Servewiththesaucespoonedoverit.
RADISHSALADSERVES4
Simplicityitself.Fouringredients–radishes,shallots,lemonandoliveoil–whichcombinetoproducefarmorethanthesumoftheirparts.Thefreshnessoftheradishesiseverythinghereasthisdishisallaboutthecrunch.
2bunchesofradishes,leaveson(about400gintotal)
1bananashallot,peeledandveryfinelysliced
1lemon
Oliveoil,fordrizzlingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Separatetheleavesfromtheradishes.Washbothreallywellandpatdry.
2.Slicehalftheradishesandplaceinaservingbowl.Trimthewholeradishesandaddtothebowlalongwiththeleaves.Mixintheshallot,thendressthesaladwithlemonjuice,adrizzleofoliveoilandsomeseasoning.
HOWTOPREPARERADISHESWashtheradishleavescarefullyastheycanbeverygritty.Iftheradishrootsneedperkingupalittle,placetheslicedhalvesinicedwaterfortenminutes.Thiswillmakethemslightlycrisper.
GRILLEDLOBSTERWITHCHILLI,GARLICANDPARSLEYBUTTERSERVES4
Lobsterissuchaluxury,youreallydon’twanttoovercomplicateit.Asimpledressingofchilli-spikedgarlicbutterisallyouneedtobringoutitsnaturalsweetness.Youcan,ofcourse,buyreadypreparedlobsters,butbuyingthemliveisthebestwaytoguaranteefreshness.MyBloodyMaryLinguinemakesagreataccompaniment.
4×600–700globsters,boiledfor6–7minutesFORTHEPARSLEYBUTTER
1redchilli,deseededifdesired
1garlicclove,peeledandfinelychopped
3tbspfinelychoppedparsley
150gbutter,softenedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1.Putthechilli,apinchofsalt,thegarlicandtheparsleyintoamortarandbashwithapestleuntilblendedtoaroughpaste.Addthebutterandmixthoroughly.Setaside.
2.Placealobsteronachoppingboard,insertthetipofaheavyknifeintothecrossonthebackofitsheadandcutdowntowardsthetailtohalveitlengthways,thencutthroughtheheadtocreatetwoequalhalves.Discardthestomachsacandblackintestinaltractalongwithanyothergunkpresent.Snapoffthebigclawsandusethebackofyourknifetocracktheshellinplaces.Repeatthisprocesswiththeotherlobsters.
3.Spreadtheflavouredbutteroverthelobsterflesh.Breakoffpiecesoftheshellontheclawsandinsertalittlebutterhereaswell.Thencoverandchillfor10–20minutes.
4.Placeagriddlepanoveramediumheat.Whenhot,placethelobstersonit,fleshsidedown,andcookfor3–4minutes,tolightlychar.Turnoverandcookforafurther2minuteswiththeclaws,thenserve.
HOWTOBOILALOBSTEREverycookseemstohavedifferentopinionsonthecorrectwaytokilllobstersandothercrustaceansandforthemosthumanewayIrecommendconsultingtheRSPCAwebsite,whichwillshowyouwhichpartofthelobstertocutbeforeplacingitinalargepanofsalted,coldwaterandthenbringingittotheboil.
BEEFFILLETWITHSALSAVERDESERVES6–8
TheRolls-RoycecutfromtheRolls-Royceofmeats:itwouldbesacrilegetomessaroundwiththismuch.Iliketoservefilletrare,soyoucanappreciateitsalmostbutterysweetness,butfeelfreetocookitabitlongerifyoulike.Butplease,notwelldone.Thatwouldbeatravesty.Salsaverdeisasharp,punchycondimentfromItalythatworksparticularlywellwiththiscut.TeamupwithBakedNewPotatoeswithTruffleandParmesanforarealtreat.
Oliveoil,forfrying1kgpieceofbeeffilletcutfromthethickend2headsofgarlic,halvedhorizontally
4thymesprigs
2rosemarysprigs
Butter,forbastingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHESALSAVERDE
5anchovyfillets,reservesomeoftheiroil1½tbspcapers2garliccloves,peeledandcrushed1½tbspDijonmustard1½tbsp
sherryorredwinevinegarExtravirginoliveoilBunchofparsley,leavesonlySmallbunchofmint,leavesonlyFreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheattheovento200°C/Gas6.
2.Placeaheavy-basedovenprooffryingpanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoliveoil.Seasonthebeefallover,thenbrowninthepanonallsidesforaminuteortwo.Addthegarlic,thymeandrosemaryandrollthebeefaroundwiththeherbs.Addacoupleofknobsofbutterand,whenmelted,bastethebeefinit.Transferthepantotheovenandroastfor10–12minutes(rare)or15–17(mediumrare).
3.Meanwhile,makethesalsaverde.Puttheanchovieswithateaspoonoftheiroil,capers,garlic,apinchofsaltandthehalftheherbs,inamortarandpoundwithapestleuntilapastehasformed.Stirinthemustardandvinegar.Loosenwithalittleoil,thenstirintherestoftheherbs.Mixwelltoyourpreferredconsistency.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.
4.Oncethebeefiscookedtoyourliking,basteitinthepanjuicesandtransfertoawarmplate.Spoonoveracoupleofspoonfulsofsalsaverde,coverlooselywithfoilandleavetorestfor10minutes.
5.Toserve,slicethicklyandspoonthesalsaverdealongside.
HOWTOCOOKBEEFFILLETBecausebeeffilletissolean,itcaneasilydryout.It’simportanttokeepbastingit,notjustbeforeitgoesintheoven,butalsoonceitcomesoutandisresting.
BAKEDNEWPOTATOESWITHTRUFFLEANDPARMESANSERVES4
Ifyou’vealreadyblownthebudgetontheBeefFillet,whynotgothewholehogandsplashoutonatruffle?Assoonasithitstheheatofthepotato,itwillfilltheroomwithitsirresistible,pungentaroma.BlackPerigordtrufflesfromFrancearedelicious,butbestofall(andtwiceasexpensive)arethewhiteAlbavarietyfromItaly.
1kgbabynewpotatoes
Oliveoil,forroasting
30gParmesancheese,grated
10gblacktruffleshavings(orwhiteifyou’refeelingextravagant)Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.
2.Placethepotatoesinaroastingtin,tossinalittleoliveoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Roastfor30–35minutes,untilcrispontheoutsideandsoftallthewaythrough.
3.PlacethepotatoesinaservingbowlandtosswiththeParmesan.Topwiththetruffleshavingsandserve.
USINGTRUFFLESTrufflesareequallygoodwithscrambledeggsorsilkypastatossedinbutter.Althoughpartofthesamefungusfamilyasthemushroom,youshouldnevercookthemortheywilllosetheirflavour.Simplygrateorsliceverythinlyoveryourplateatthelastminute.
STICKYSPICEDCHICKENWINGSSERVES4
Chickenisn’tallaboutthebreasts–thewingscanbejustasdelicious,especiallywhencoatedinaspicyAsianmarinadeandroastedtostickyperfection.CombinethemwithStir-FriedGreenBeansandThaiRicewithCurryPasteandyouhaveaperfectinformalsupperforfriends.
5tbsptamarindpaste
2tbspflavourlessoil,e.g.groundnut2tbsppalmorbrownsugar
1tbspfishsauce
2garliccloves,peeledandfinelychopped
1tspchillipowderorflakes
16–20free-rangechickenwings,dependingonsize,wingtipsremoved4springonions,trimmedandsliceddiagonally,togarnish
1.Ifusingablockoftamarind,placeitinabowlwith2tablespoonshotwatertodissolveit.Removeanyseeds,ifnecessary.
2.Putthetamarindpasteinalargebowlwiththeoil,sugar,fishsauce,garlicandchilliandmixwell.Addthewingsanduseyourhandstotossthemthoroughlyinthemixture.Coverwithclingfilmandmarinateinthefridgeovernight,orforatleast1hour.
3.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.
4.Linearoastingtinwithfoil(tomakeiteasiertocleanaftercooking)andplacethemarinatedwingsinit.Roastfor25–35minutes,untilcookedthroughandsticky.
5.Servethewingswarm,garnishedwiththespringonions.
STIR–FRIEDGREENBEANSWITHSOYANDPEANUTDRESSINGSERVES4
Althoughthisrequiressomelastminutestir-frying,youcanpart-cookthebeansinboilingwaterwellinadvance,sotheytakeliterallyfourminutestofinishoff.It’simportanttogetthepanhotenoughtoblisterthebeansandgivethemsomecolour–ifyouhaveonenow’sthetimetobringoutyourwokasitwillhelpyoutocontrolthetemperaturemoreeasilythanaheavypan.
300ggreenbeans,trimmed
2tbspcrunchypeanutbutter,or3tbsppeanutsblitzedinafoodprocessor
1tbspsoysauce
½tbspricevinegar½tbspbrownsugarFlavourlessoil,e.g.groundnut,forfrying2garliccloves,peeledandfinely
chopped2tbspsesameseeds,toasted,toserve1.Blanchthebeansinsaltedboilingwaterfor2minutes.Drainandrefreshincoldicedwater.
2.Putthepeanutbutter,soysauce,vinegarandsugarinabowlandmixtogether.Add1–2tablespoonshotwaterifthemixtureisverythick.Stiruntilthesugarhasdissolved.
3.Placeaheavy-basedfryingpanorwokoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Addthegarlicandcookfor1minute,untilgolden.Tossinthebeansandcookfor2–3minutes,untilbeginningtoblisterslightlyontheoutside.
4.Lowertheheat,addthepeanutdressingandstirwell.
5.Transferthebeanstoaservingbowlandsprinklewiththetoastedsesameseeds.
THAIRICEWITHCURRYPASTEANDGREENHERBSSERVES4
ThisisastapledishthroughoutThailand.Iftimeisshort,youcanusebest-qualityshop-boughtredorgreencurrypaste,butit’ssoeasytomakeyourownandtheresultwillbefarmorevibrant.
300gcookedjasmineorlong-grainrice,preferably1dayoldorchilledforatleast4hoursFlavourlessoil,e.g.groundnutSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperLimewedges,toserve
FORTHECURRYPASTE
2largegreenchillies
1garlicclove,peeledandroughlychopped1lemongrassstalk,roughlychopped
2limeleaves
3cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandchoppedSmallbunchofcoriander
1shallot,peeledandchoppedJuiceof1lime1.Firstmakethecurrypaste.Putalltheingredientsforitintoafoodprocessorwith1–2tablespoonsoilplusapinchofsaltandpepperandblitzuntilsmooth.
2.Placealargefryingpanorwokoveramedium-highheatandaddatablespoonofoil.Whenhot,addthecurrypasteandstirovertheheatuntilaromatic(about2minutes).
3.Addthericetothepan,stirwellandcookfor4–5minutes,untilthericeisheatedthrough.Ifnecessary,addanotherdashofoiltopreventthericefromstickingtothepan.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasyouwish.
4.Transfertoaservingbowlandserveimmediatelywithlimewedges.
HOWTOSTIR-FRYTossingthecontentsofapanwithasmoothflickofthewristdoesn’tjustlookgood–itmeansyoucanstayincontrolandkeepthingscookingevenly.Thesecretistopushthepanawayfromyouandsharplypullitback.Pushaway,pullback,pushaway,pullback.Itwilltakealittlepractice,butit’saskillthat’sdefinitelyworthperfecting.
SLOW-COOKEDSMOKYPULLEDPORKBUTTWITHCHIPOTLEMAYOSERVES8–10
Thenamemightraiseasnigger,butboy,waituntilyoutastethisdish.The‘butt’isacutfromthemiddleofthepig’sshoulderwhich,withlongslowcooking,meltsdowntothesweetest,tenderestporkyou’llevertaste.Servedwithasmokymustardmayo,it’stheultimateAmericanpartyfood.AllitneedsaresomeCrushedPotatoeswithSpringOnionsandCheeseandBroccoliSlaw.
3tbsphotsmokedpaprika
2tbspdemerarasugar
4garliccloves,peeledandcrushed4thymesprigs,leavesfinelychopped,stemsreservedOliveoil
1×2–3kgporkbutt(frontmiddleshoulder),bonein,rindremoved4onions,peeledandquarteredSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperWhitebaps,toserveFORTHECHIPOTLEMAYO
300gbest-qualitymayonnaise1–2tbspchipotlepaste(ifunavailable,use2tspsmokedpaprika)1tsprunnyhoney
1tbspwholegrainmustard
1.Preheattheovento140°C/Gas1.
2.Mixthepaprika,sugar,garlicandthymeleavesinabowl.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,thenaddalittleoliveoiltocreateapaste.Rubthemixturealloverthepork,massagingitintothemeat.Whileit’sabsolutelyfinetocooktheporkatthispoint,youcanalsocoverandchillitforupto24hourstoabsorbthespicerub.
3.Puttheonionsintoaroastingtin,sprinklewiththethymestalksandplacethepork,fattiestsideup,ontop.Roastfor1hour,thencoverwithfoilandcookforafurther4–5hours,untilthemeatisreallytenderandfallingoffthebone.
4.Meanwhile,makethechipotlemayo.Combinealltheingredientsinabowl,seasonwithsaltandpepperandmixwell.
5.Oncetheporkiscooked,coveritlooselywithfoilandsetasidetorestforupto1hourbeforepullingthemeatawayfromtheboneinchunks.Servewiththesmokymayoandbapsalongside.
CRUSHEDPOTATOESWITHSPRINGONIONSANDCHEESESERVES6–8
Ifyoucan’tchoosebetweenbakedandmashedpotatoes,theseofferthebestofbothworlds.Roughlycrushedandtoppedwithcornichons,springonionsandcheese,theymakeano-nonsenseaccompanimenttomySlow-CookedSmokyPulledPorkButt,oranyotherroast.
1.25kgred-skinnedpotatoes,unpeeled(cutanylargeonestothesamesizeasthesmallerones)30gofbutter,optional
4springonions
100gcornichonsorsweetpickledgherkins175gGruyèrecheese,gratedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Boilthepotatoesinsalted
boilingwateruntiltender.
2.Meanwhile,finelychopthespringonionsonthediagonalanddicethecornichons.
3.Drainthepotatoesandroughlycrushthem(stillintheirskins)withapotatomasher.Addthebutterifusing.Stirinthespringonionsandcornichons,thenfoldinthecheese.Tasteandseasonasnecessary,thenserve.
HOWTOBOILPOTATOESWITHPERFECTRESULTSAlwayscutpotatoesintoevensizessothattheycookevenly,andkeepthewateratagentlesimmer.Ifitboilsfuriously,theoutsidesofthepotatoeswillcooktooquicklyandbecomewaterlogged.
BROCCOLISLAWSERVES6
Thisisalovelyhealthysidesaladthatprovidesjustthecrunchyouneedwiththesoftporkbutt.Usingyoghurtinsteadofoilinthedressinggivesahintofcreaminesswithoutthecloyingrichnessyousometimesgetwithmayonnaise.
1headofbroccoli
1bananashallot(ifunavailable,use3smallordinaryshallots),peeledandfinelydiced100gcurrants100gwholeblanchedalmonds,toastedandroughlychoppedFORTHEDRESSING
200mlnaturalyoghurt1–1½tbspcidervinegarPinchofsugarSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Cutoffanddiscardthebroccolistalks,thenchoptheheadsintosmallpieces.Placeinasaladbowlandaddtheshallot,almondsandcurrants.Setaside.
2.Puttheyoghurtforthedressingintoabowlandstirinthevinegar,startingwith1tablespoon,andaddingmorelaterifneeded.Addthesugar,mixwellandseason.Tasteandaddtheremainingvinegaroralittleextrasugarifnecessary.
3.Pourthedressingoverthebroccoli,tosswellandserve.
STUFFEDRIBOFBEEFSERVES6–8
TheSundayRoastisthecornerstoneofhomecookingandaribofbeefistheultimate.Cookingbeefonthebonenotonlylooksimpressive,butitgivesthemeatmoreflavourandensuresthatitcooksevenlytoo.I’dbeproudtoservethisverysimply,withjuicesfromthepan,butasatwist,I’mstuffingitwithmushrooms,spinachandtarragonandaddingamustardglaze.Delicious,especiallywhenpairedwithHorseradishYorkshirePuddings.
3-boneribofbeefonthebone,about3.5–4.5kg,chinebone(spine)removed
2heapedtspEnglishmustardpowder
6carrots,peeledandhalvedlengthways6parsnips,peeledandhalvedlengthwaysFORTHESTUFFING
1onion,peeledandfinelydiced200gPortobelloorchestnutmushrooms,wipedcleanandfinelychopped3garliccloves,peeledandchopped300gbabyspinach
75gbreadcrumbsmadefromstalebread(1or2daysold)2tarragonsprigs,leavesonly,roughlychopped1lemonthymesprig,leavesonly
1free-rangeeggyolk
Oliveoil
Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1.Takethebeefoutofthefridgeandallowittocomeuptoroomtemperature(about1hour).Atthatpoint,preheattheovento230°C/Gas8.
2.Meanwhile,makethestuffing.Placeaheavy-basedsautépanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,addtheonionwithapinchofsaltandpepperandsautéuntilsoftened.Addthemushroomsandcookuntiltender.Addthegarlicandsautéfor2minutes,thenaddthespinach,inbatchesifnecessary.Oncetheleaveshavecompletelywilted,removethepanfromtheheatandfinelychop.Transfertoabowlandallowtocoolslightly.
3.Addthebreadcrumbsandherbstothestuffing,andstirwell.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Stirintheeggyolktobindthemixture.
4.Placethebeefonachoppingboardwiththeribsontheright-handside.Insertthetipofasharpknifeontheleft-handsideofthemeatabout3cminfromtheedgeandmakealongincisionjustabovetheribs,goingtwo-thirdsofthewayintothejoint.Theideaistoseparatethemeatfromthebones,butleaveitattachedalongthebottom.
5.Gentlypullthemeatapartandpushthestuffingintothegap.Itmightnottakeallthestuffing,inwhichcase,puttheexcessinasmallovenproofdish,coverwithalidorfoil,andbakeitforthelast10–15minutesofthemeatcookingtime.
6.Tieacoupleofpiecesofstringhorizontallyaroundthemeatandverticallybetweentheribbonestosecurethestuffinginplace.Putthemustardpowderinabowlwithapinchofsaltandpepperandenougholiveoiltoformathinpaste.Rubthemixtureintothemeat.
7.Placethecarrotsandparsnipsintotheroastingtin.Drizzlewitholiveoil.Putthemeatontopofthevegetablesandroastfor15minutestobrowntheoutsideofthemeat.Lowerthetemperatureto180°C/Gas4andcontinueroastingfor15minutesper450gofmeat,plus15extraminutesattheendifyoulikerarebeef
(theinternaltemperatureshouldregister50–53°Conameatthermometer)orforafurther20–30minutesifyoupreferbeefmediumrare(internaltemperature54–57°C).
8.Removethevegetablesafter35minutesandsetasidereadytoreheatbeforeserving.
9.Oncecooked,removethebeeffromtheoven,coverlooselywithfoilandleavetorestforatleast20minutes,andanythingupto45minutes.
10.Toserve,placethevegetablesbackintheovenat180°Cfor15minutestofinishcookingandreheat.Removethestringfromthebeefandsliceawaytheribbones,thencarvethemeatandspoonthestuffingandvegetablesontoaservingplatter.
HOWTOSTORERIBOFBEEFRibofbeefshouldbekeptunwrappedinthefridgesothatitalmostairdries.Thiswillintensifytheflavourandmakeitroastmorequickly.
HORSERADISHYORKSHIREPUDDINGSMAKES12
Howcanyouimproveonthetraditionalaccompanimenttoroastbeef?youmightask.Byaddingtheotherroastbeefessential–horseradish–ofcourse.Peopleoftencomplainthattheirpuddingsdon’triseproperly.Therearetwosecrets:gettheoilorfatreallyhotbeforeaddingthebatter,andoncetheyareintheoven,noopeningtheovendooruntiltheyareallpuffedupandmajestic.
150gplainflour
½tspsalt4free-rangeeggs,beaten
200mlwholemilk
6tbspfreshlygratedhorseradishor3tbspcreamedhorseradish
4tbspvegetableoil,duckfatordripping
1.Preheattheovento230°C/Gas8.Ifyouarecookingthesepuddingstogowithroastbeef,increasetheoventemperatureonceyouremovethebeeftorest.
2.Sifttheflourandsaltintoalargebowl.Addtheeggsandhalfthemilkandbeatuntilsmooth.Mixintheremainingmilkandthegratedhorseradishandleavethebattertorestforatleast30minutes,orevenwhilethebeefcooks.
3.Putateaspoonofoilor,betterstill,hotfatfromthebeefroastingtinintoeachcompartmentofa12-holemuffintinor2×4holeYorkshirepuddingtinsandplaceonthetopshelfoftheovenuntilveryhot(almostsmoking).
4.Whenready,whiskthebatteragain,pouritintoajugandfillthetinattheovenuntileachholeisthree-quartersfull.(Thisissaferthancarryingapanofboilingfatacrossthekitchen.)Watchoutastheoilwillsizzleabit.Putthetinstraightbackintotheovenandbakefor10–12minutesforthe2×4holetinsor
12–14minutesforthemuffintin,untiltheYorkshiresarewellrisen,goldenbrownandcrispontheoutsidebutsoftandspringyinthemiddle.
AROMATICLAMBCHOPSWITHMINTYYOGHURTSERVES4
Springlambisoneoftheseason’sgreatestgiftstoachefandshouldalwaysbeservedverysimply.Butasthelambmaturesthroughtheyearandthemeatdevelopsmoreflavour,youcanaffordtogetmoreadventurous.Thissimplespicemixofcumin,coriander,turmericandgingerisn’ttoooverpoweringbutreallyenhanceslamb’snaturalsweetness.Acoolingspoonfulofmintedyoghurtandasimplesalad,likemyChargrilledBroccoliandBulgurSaladareallthesidesitneeds.
2tspcuminseeds
2tspcorianderseeds
1tspgroundturmeric
4cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandfinelygrated2garliccloves,peeledandfinelygratedOliveoil,formarinade
8–12lambcutlets,Frenchtrimmed250mlnaturalyoghurt4mintsprigs,leavesonly,roughlychoppedSeasaltandfreshlyground
blackpepper1.Puttheseedsandturmericintoamortar,addapinchofsaltandpoundasfinelyaspossible.Mixinthegingerandgarlic,thenaddalittleoliveoiltoformapaste.
2.Rubthepasteintothelambandleavetomarinateforawhile(anywherefrom10minutestoovernight).
3.Placeagriddlepanoveramediumheatanddrizzlewithoil.Whenhot,addthelambandgriddleitfor3–4minutesoneithersideifyoulikeitpink,or4–6minutesifyoupreferitwelldone.Whencookedtoyourliking,turnthelambonedgeandcookthefatuntildarkgoldenandcrisp.
4.Puttheyoghurtandmintintoabowl,seasonwithsaltandpepperandmixwell.
5.Servethecutletswiththeyoghurtontheside.
CHARGRILLEDBROCCOLIANDBULGURSALADSERVES4
ThisNorthAfricansaladisgreatwarmorcold.ServeitwiththeAromaticLambCutletswithMintyYoghurt–theflavoursreallycomplementoneanother.
150gbulgur
300gbroccoli,separatedintomediumflorets
SeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHEDRESSING
Bunchofmint,leavesonly1–2tspharissapaste,ortotaste
150mlbuttermilk
1.Cookthebulguraccordingtothepacketinstructions.Transfertoaservingbowl.
2.Placealargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheat.Addthebroccolitothedrypan,seasonwithapinchofsaltandcookfor6–10minutes,untilthebroccoliischarredinplacesandtender.Addtothebulgur.
3.Tomakethedressing,finelychophalfthemintleaves.Placetheminabowlwith1teaspoonoftheharissa,thebuttermilkandapinchofsaltandpepperandmixwell.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning,addingmoreharissaifyouwantaspicierflavour.
4.Pourthedressingoverthebulgurandbroccoli,addthewholemintleavesandtosswellbeforeserving.
USINGBUTTERMILKButtermilkisthethin,slightlysourliquidleftafterchurningbutter.Itisoftenusedindressings,bakingandtotenderisemeat.Itiswidelyavailablebutifyoucan’tfindany,substituteitwithtwopartsplainyoghurtandonepartmilk.
milk.
ALOTOFPEOPLEWHENCOOKINGFORFRIENDSWILLMANAGEASTARTERANDMAINCOURSE,BUTRUNOUTOFSTEAMWHENITGETSTOPUDDING.
There’snogreatshameinthat–afterall,inFrancetheyinvariablybuyindessertfromapatisserieandit’sneverseenasafailureonthehost’spart–butIguaranteethatifyoudogototheextraeffortofmakingdessert,yourguestswillloveyouforit.Inaway,dessertisthemostsocialofallthecourses–whenyougooutfordinnerit’stheonecoursewherefriendswilltendtotasteabitofeveryoneelse’s.Itcreatesabuzz,agrandfinale,andit’sthememoryguestswillgoawaywith.Thesameappliesathome,sopersonallyIalwaysliketoendthenightonasweetnote.Itneedn’tbeanythinghugelycomplicatedanditcertainlyneedn’tbetime-consumingtomakebutitjustleaveseveryoneinagoodmood,withafeelingthattheyhavebeenwelllookedafter.
Ofallthecourses,thisistheonetohavemadeinadvancesowhenit
Ofallthecourses,thisistheonetohavemadeinadvancesowhenitcomestoit,it’sjustaquestionoftakingitoutofthefridgeorfreezer,orputtingitintheoven.You’llhavebeendoingenoughworkbetweencoursesalready,sodoyourselfafavourandmakethislastcourseasstraightforwardaspossible.Trustme,thisisn’tthetimetotryyourhandatmakingasouffléforthefirsttime.You’llfindlotsofsuggestionsinthischapter.Jelliesarealwaysbrilliantbecause,well,we’reallkidsatheartandwhodoesn’tlikejelly?Especiallyagrown-upversionwithalittlekickofalcohol.Thesamegoesforicecreams,sorbetsandmousses.Theyallhavetobemadeinadvanceandwillsithappilyinthefridgeorfreezeruntilthemomentyouwanttoservethem.It’salwaysagoodideatohavetried-and-testeddisheslikethesereadyandwaiting.Thatwayevenifoneoftheothercoursesdoesn’tgoaccordingtoplan(andbelieveme,thatcanhappentoallofus),you’llpaniclessknowingthatatleastthefinalewillbeatriumph.
Ithinkthesecretofareallysuccessfulpuddingistogiveitatwist.Makeitadventurousandunexpectedandyourguestswillbesuretorememberitlongaftertheygohome.Therearesomanywaysyoucanplaywithtraditionaldesserts:addalittlechilliandstaranisetopoachedpears,somelavendertoatraditionalcrèmecaramel,blackpeppertoabananatartetatin.Actually,addingspiceingeneralisagreatwayofjazzingupafamiliarpudding.Evenasimplebowlofstrawberriescanbelivenedupwithadrizzleofbalsamicvinegarandatwistofblackpepper.Basilleavesdosomethingsimilartoalemonsorbetorgranita.Andmyvanillasaltisabrilliantadditiontothinlyslicedpineapple.Bothgreencardamomandthemoreexoticallyperfumedblackcardamomgoperfectlywithcaramel-basedpuddingssuchastartetatinandalsowithchocolate.Theslightlymedicinalflavourofbayleavesworkssurprisinglywellinsweetcustards,especiallywhenpouredoveranapplecrumble.Ortryaddingrosemaryandthymeinmoderationtoorangeorraspberryjelliesandthelike.
Whenitcomestospeedandsimplicity,youwon’tgofarwrongifyoukeepsomeready-rolledpufforsweetshortcrustpastrytohand.Simplybrushthepastrywithalittlewarmjam,layonslicesoffruit–apple,pearorplumallworkwell–dustwithicingsugarandbakeintheovenuntilthepastryiscooked.MyPearandGingerGaletteisbarelymorecomplicatedthanthatandmakesastunningpudding.Alternatively,theholytrinityofquickpuddingingredientsaredoublecream(differentcreamshavedifferentusesaccordingtotheirfatcontentsoseemyguide),Greekyoghurtandfrozenberries.Ifyouhavethesethreeinyourfridgeorfreezeryouareonly
minutesawayfromalovelyfruitfool.Simplywhiskthecream,addalittleyoghurttocuttherichnessandfoldinicingsugarandberriestotaste.Servewithashortbreadbiscuitandyou’vegotapuddingworthyofanydinnerparty.Ifyou’vegotsomemeringuestocrumblein,evenbetter.Yousee,homecookingshouldneverbeover-elaborateandasI’vesaidbefore,betterarelaxedhostandsimplefoodthanastressedhostandcomplexfood.
CLOTTEDCREAM
Thisismadebyheatingandcoolingdoublecream,thenskimmingofftherich“clotted”crust.At55percentbutterfat,it’stoothicktocookwithbutmakesaluxuriousaccompanimenttosconesorpuddings.
DOUBLECREAMAtnearly50percentbutterfat,doublecreamisaversatile,generalpurposecreamidealfordessertsandice-cream.Oncewhippeditcanbeverydense,soIsometimesmixitwithGreekyoghurttomakeitlessheavy.
WHIPPINGCREAM
At35percentbutterfat,thisisthinnerandslightlyhealthierthandoublecreambut,asthenamesuggests,stillholdsitsshapewellwhenwhipped.As
creambut,asthenamesuggests,stillholdsitsshapewellwhenwhipped.Aswithdoublecreamyouhavetobecarefulnottooverbeatit,oritwillbecomegranular.Ifthishappens,addasplashmorecreamandbeatitslowlyuntilsmoothagain.
SINGLECREAM
About20percentbutterfat,singlecreamisidealforpouringoverpuddingsorforenrichingsoupsandsauces.Itisnotsuitableforboilingasitwillcurdle.
CRÈMEFRAÎCHEAmixofsourandfreshcream,crèmefraîchehasalovelytangyflavour.Itwillnevercurdleorseparatewhenboiledand,becauseitisnaturallythick,isidealforgarnishingsoups.
CHOCOLATE
Aswithwineandcoffee,therehasbeenanexplosionofinterestintheprovenanceofproperchocolaterecently.Moreandmorepeoplearestartingtounderstandhowdifferent70percentValrhona,say,isfromabarofBournville.Fromthehomecook’spointofview,thisisfantasticbecauseitmeansit’snolongerjusttheprofessionalchefswhohaveaccesstochocolatewithhigherlevelsofcocoasolids.Believeme,whencookingwithchocolate,itreallyisacaseofgettingoutwhatyouputin.Evenwhenmakingsomethingforthechildren,I’llalwaysusehigh-quality.Youcanalwaysaddmoresugarorcreamtomakeitmoreappealingtoyoungtastebuds.
PINEAPPLECARPACCIOWITHPOMEGRANATEANDVANILLASALT
APEROLSPRITZJELLY
LEMONANDBASILGRANITA
BANANAANDCOCONUTFRITTERS
SPICEDBANANATARTETATIN
LAVENDERCRÈMECARAMEL
ESPRESSOPANNACOTTAWITHCINNAMONHAZELNUTBRITTLE
ETONMESSBOMBE
PEARANDGINGERGALETTE
MANGOPARFAITPOTSWITHMACERATEDBERRIES
WHITECHOCOLATEANDLIMEMOUSSE
APPLECOMPOTEWITHACREAMYWHIP
STEAMEDDATEPUDDINGWITHBUTTERSCOTCHSAUCE
HAZELNUTMERINGUETOWER
CHILLIPOACHEDPEARSWITHSTARANISEDUST
CHOCOLATEANDPISTACHIOSEMIFREDDO
PINEAPPLECARPACCIOWITHPOMEGRANATEANDVANILLASALTSERVES4
Thisisalight,healthypuddingtointrigueyourguestswith.Itmaysoundstrangebutthecombinationofsalt,vanillaandverythinlyslicedpineapplereallyworkswell.
1largeripepineapple
1pomegranate
Smallbunchofmint,leavesshreddedFORTHEVANILLASALT
125gseasaltorfleurdesel1vanillapod,splitopenandseedsscrapedout1.Firstmakethevanilla
salt.Putthesaltandvanillaseedsintoabowlandmixwell.Placeinanairtightcontainerwiththeemptypodanduseasrequiredinbakingorsavourydishes.Themixturewillkeepindefinitely.
2.Cutofftheendsofthepineapple,thensliceofftheskinfromtoptobottom,keepingthefruitwhole.Cutthepineapplewidthwaysintoslicesabout1mmthicksoyouendupwithlotsofcircles.Setaside.
3.Cutthepomegranateinhalfhorizontally.Holdeachhalfinturnoverabowlandsmacktheskinwiththebackofawoodenspoonsothattheseedsdropintothebowl.Reserveanyjuicethatcomesoutoftheseedsasyouremovethem.
4.Toserve,sprinkleaservingplatterwithalittlevanillasalt.Arrangethepineappleslicesoverit,thensprinklewithalittleextravanillasalt,thepomegranateseedsandjuice.Finishwithalightsprinklingofthevanillasaltandtheshreddedmintleaves.
USINGSALTINSWEETDISHESAddingalittlesalttosweetdishesactuallyenhancesthesweetness.Ioftenaddapinchtocakes,biscuitsandespeciallycaramelsauces.Vanillasaltwouldworkwellinallofthese,too.Tryitalsosprinkledoverabutteryfilletofwhitefish.
APEROLSPRITZJELLYSERVES4
Aperolisabitter-sweetItalianaperitifmadefromherbsandroots,alittlelikeCampari.IfyougointoabarinnorthernItaly,especiallyVenice,you’llseepeopledrinkingSpritz,arefreshingdrinkmadeofAperol,proseccoandsparklingwaterandoftengarnishedwithasliceoforange.IthinkyoucanseewhereIgottheideaforthisjellyfrom.
7sheetsofleafgelatine
1×750mlbottleprosecco150gcastersugar6tbspAperol
4thinslicesoforange
1.Placethegelatinesheetsinasmallbowlofcoldwaterandleavefor5–10minutes,untilsoftened.
2.Pour100mlwaterandaquarteroftheproseccointoasaucepan,addthesugarandwarmoveralowheat,stirringoccasionally,untilthesugarhasdissolved.
3.Squeezeoutthegelatineandaddtothesaucepan,offtheheat,stirringuntildissolved.Strainthemixtureintoajugandsetasideuntilcool.
4.AddtheAperolandremainingproseccotothejugandstirwell.
5.Take4tumblers(about250mlcapacity)andinsertanorangesliceineachone,positioningitdiagonally.CarefullypourintheAperolmixture,sharingitequallybetweentheglasses.Chillovernightoruntilset(atleast4hours).
USINGFRUITINJELLIESIndividualjelliesusingfruitsuchasstrawberriesorraspberriesneedtobesetintwostages–otherwisethefruitwillfloattothetop.Usingsingleorangeorlemonslicesmakesthewholeprocesseasierbecausetheycanbewedgedagainstthesidesoftheglass.
LEMONANDBASILGRANITASERVES4Thisisalovelyrefreshingicethatwesometimesserveasapalate-cleansingpre-dessertintherestaurants.Thepepperinessofthebasilandfreshnessofthelemonworkreallywelltogether.Granitasaregreatthingstomakeathomebecauseyoudon’tneedanicecreammakerorhavetoworryaboutgettingasmoothtexture–thewholepointofthemisthattheyaregranular.Theyarebestmadeandeatenonthesameday,though,ortheycanbecomeblocksofice.
7unwaxedlemons–zestfrom1andjuicefromall150mlwater150gcastersugar
4basilsprigs,leavesonly
1.Putthelemonzestintoasmallsaucepan,straininthejuiceandaddthesugar.Stiroveramediumheatuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Allowtocoolfor5minutes.
2.Dilutethemixturewiththewatertotaste.Setaside4smallbasilleavesfordecoration,thenveryfinelychoptherest.Addtothelemonmixture.
3.Pourthesyrupintoaliddedplasticcontainerandfreezefor3hours,oruntilfrozenatthebottomandaroundtheedges.Swirlthemixturewithaforktobreakuptheicecrystals,thencoverandreturntothefreezerforanotherhour.Repeatthisfreezingandstirringprocesstwicemorebeforelettingthegranitafreezesolidwithagranulartexture.
4.Toserve,breakupthegranitawiththefork,thenspoonintochilledservingglasses.Garnishwiththereservedbasilleavesandserveimmediately.
BANANAANDCOCONUTFRITTERSMAKES12–16
ThisisadishIdiscoveredwhenIwastravellingaroundAsiaandithassincebecomeafirmfavourite.Asianfood–certainlythatofThailandandVietnam–usesalmostnodairyproductssothisisbasicallytheirtakeonamilk-andegg-freepancake.It’salsoagreatwaytouseupanybananasthatareturningblackinthefruitbowl.Asfarasthesefrittersareconcerned,theripertheyare,thebetter!
125gplainflour
1tspbakingpowder
75gcastersugar,plusextraforsprinkling25gdesiccatedcoconutFinelygratedzestof1limePinchofsalt4ripebananas,peeledandmashed(about400gfleshintotal)Vegetable
oil,forfrying1.Sifttheflourandbakingpowderintoalargebowl.Stirinthesugar,coconut,limezestandsalt.Stirthemashedbananasintothedryingredients,mixinguntilwellcombined.Coverthebatterwithclingfilmandchillfor15minutes.
2.Fillalargesaucepanone-thirdfullofoilandheatto180°C,oruntilacubeofbreaddroppedintheoilsizzlesandturnsgoldenin30seconds.
3.Usingatablespoon,carefullydrop4or5spoonfulsofthebatterintothehotoilandfryfor2–3minutes,untilgoldenbrownonbothsidesandcookedthrough.
4.Liftoutwithaslottedspoon,drainonkitchenpaper,andrepeatwiththerestofthemixture.Servehot,sprinkledwithalittlesugar.
SPICEDBANANATARTETATINSERVES6
ThistwistonthefamousFrenchappleorpeartartetatinisnotonlyoneoftheeasiestdessertsintheworldtomakebutoneofthemostdelicious.Italsoshowsjusthowbrilliantlyunusualcombinationscanwork.Blackpepperprovidestheheatandthepinkpeppercornsamildfruitiness.Ineverbothermakingmyownpuffpastryathome–justmakesureyoubuyanall-butterone.
50gbutter,softened
1vanillapod,splitopenandseedsscrappedout½tsppinkpeppercorns,crushedinamortar½tspblackpeppercorns,crushedinamortar100gcastersugar
6largeripebananas,peeled
320gready-rolledsheetofall-butterpuffpastry
1.Preheattheovento200°C/Gas6.
2.Spreadthebutterevenlyacrossthebaseofa20cmovenprooffryingpan.Addboththevanillapodandseeds.Topwithathirdofthecrushedpeppercorns,thensprinkleoverthesugar.
3.Peelthebananasandcutintopieces3–4cmthick.Arrangethem,cutsidedown,inconcentriccirclesinthepansothattheyarethesameheightastherim.Sprinkleoveranotherthirdofthecrushedpeppercorns.
4.Unrollthepastrysheetand,usingaplateslightlylargerthanthetopofthepan,cutoutacircle.Drapethepastryoverthebananasandtucktheedgesdownthesidesofthepanwiththebackofaspoon.Piercethepastryafewtimeswiththetipofasharpknife.
5.Placethepanoveramedium-highheatfor3–4minutes,untilthesugardissolves,thenshakegentlyasitcaramelisestoatoffeecolourandstartstobubbleupthesides.Transfertotheovenandbakefor30–35minutes,untilthepastryis
goldenbrown.Leavethetartetostandfor10minutes,theninvertitcarefullyontoaservingdish.
6.Removethevanillapod,sprinklethetartewiththeremainingcrushedpeppercorns,thencutintowedgesandserve.
HOWTOMAKETHEPERFECTTARTETATINIt’simportanttomakeacoupleofholesinthepastrylid,otherwisethesteamcaughtunderneathwillstopthepastryfromcooking.Beforeturningoutthetarte,giveitaquickblastofheatonthehob,shakingthepanslightlytohelptoreleasethefruitcleanlyfromthecaramel.
LAVENDERCRÈMECARAMELSERVES4
Aproperlymadecrèmecaramel,richwithvanillaseedsanddrippingwithcaramel,isanall-timeclassic.I’vemainlystuckwithtraditionhere,butthehintoflavendergivesitanotherdimension.Youcanbuylavendersugarandedibleflowersfromsomesupermarkets,butit’seasytomakeyourown.Simplyputdriedunsprayed(i.e.edible)lavendersprigsintogoldencastersugarandstoreinanairtightcontainer.Thelongerthelavenderisleftinthesugar,themoreintensetheflavour.Ialsoliketouselavendersugarwhenmakingshortbread.
150ggoldencastersugar
1tsplavenderflowers,plusafewextrafordecorationButter,forgreasing
500mlwholemilk
4free-rangeeggs
Seedsfrom1vanillapod
50glavendersugar
1.Preheattheovento150°C/Gas2.Setout4×150mlramekins.
2.Putthefirstquantityofsugarintoasmall,heavy-basedpanoveramedium-lowheatandallowittodissolvecompletely.Atthatpoint,turnuptheheatandboilbrieflyuntilitbecomesadarkgoldencaramel(2–3minutes).
3.Pourthecaramelintotheramekinsstraightaway,dividingitequally,andsprinkleeachonewithacoupleoflavenderflowers.Setasidetocool(notinthefridge).Oncethecaramelhasset,greasetheinsidesoftheramekinswithathinlayerofbutter.
4.Placethemilkinasaucepanandwarmgentlyoveralowheatuntiljustbelowscaldingpoint.
5.Meanwhile,puttheeggs,vanillaseedsandlavendersugarintoabowlandwhiskthoroughly.Graduallypourthehotmilkintotheeggmixture,whiskingasyoudoso,untilcompletelysmooth.Transferthemixturetoajugforthenextstep.
6.Placetheramekinsinalinedroastingtin(seetip)andfillthemwiththecustard,dividingitequallybetweenthem.Pourboilingwaterintothetrayuntilitcomeshalfwayupthesidesofthedishes(beingcarefulnottogetanysplashesinthecustard).
7.Carefullytransferthebain-marietotheovenandcookthepuddingsfor25–35minutes,untilsetbutwithaslightwobbleinthemiddle.
8.Removethedishesfromthetinandallowtocool.Thisisbestdoneovernightinthefridgesothatthecaramelandcustardcanproperlycombine.
9.Toserve,loosenthecrèmecaramelsbydippingtheramekinsinhotwaterandrunningaknifearoundtheinsideedge.Placeaplateovereachramekinand,holdingtightly,invertboth,givingthedishalittleshakeifnecessary.Servedecoratedwiththeremaininglavenderflowers.
HOWTOMAKEPERFECTCUSTARDWhenmakingcustard,itisimportanttotakethemilkofftheheatjustbeforeitboils.Also,onlywhisktogetherthesugarandeggsatthelastminute,otherwisetheyolkswillstarttobecomerunny.
ESPRESSOPANNACOTTAWITHCINNAMONHAZELNUTBRITTLESERVES4
Pannacotta,or‘cookedcream’,istheposhItalianequivalentofourownblancmangeandallthemoredelicious.It’sveryeasytomakeandcanbeflavouredwithanythingyoulike,fromvanillaorlemontoroseorchocolate.Mycoffee-flavouredversionisdistinctlygrown-up,especiallywhenservedwithanutbrittle.I’veusedhazelnutshere,butalmonds,walnutsorpecanswouldallworkjustaswell.
3sheetsofleafgelatine
400mldoublecream
75mlwholemilk100gcastersugar50mlespressoshot(ifunavailable,replacewith1½tbspcoffeegranules
dissolvedin50mlboilingwater)
FORTHEBRITTLE50gblanchedhazelnuts200gcastersugar
1tspgroundcinnamon
1.Placethegelatinesheetsinasmallbowlofcoldwaterandleavefor5–10minutes,untilsoftened.Setout4×175mldariolemouldsorramekins.
2.Putthecream,milk,sugarandcoffeeintoasmallheavy-basedsaucepan.Placeoveramedium-lowheatandbringtoasimmer.Immediatelyremovefromtheheat.
3.Squeezeoutthesoakedgelatineleavesandstirthemintothehotcream,mixingwelluntilcompletelydissolved.Setasidetocoolslightly.
4.Meanwhile,rinsethemouldsorramekinsincoldwater,butdon’tdrythem.Thiswillmakethepannacottaseasiertoturnoutonceset.Pourthepannacottamixturethroughasieveintoajug,thenpourintothewaitingmoulds.Placeinthefridgeandleavetosetovernight.
5.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.
6.Meanwhile,makethebrittle.Putthehazelnutsonabakingtrayandplaceintheovenfor10minutes,oruntilgolden.
7.Lineanotherbakingtraywithgreaseproofpaperorasiliconmat.Sprinklethesugarintoaheavy-basedfryingpanandplaceoveramediumheatuntilthesugardissolvesandbeginstoturngolden.Swirlthepantoensureitcaramelisesevenly.Onceitisdarkgolden,addthetoastedhazelnutsandgroundcinnamon,swirltocombine,thentipintothepreparedbakingtray.Setasideuntilcompletelyhard.
8.Toserve,dipthemouldsinboilingwaterfor5seconds.Placeaplateovereachoneand,holdingtightly,invertboth,givingthemouldalittleshakeifnecessary.Breakthebrittleintoshardsandservealongsidethepannacottas.
HOWTOCOOLCARAMELNeverputcaramelintherefrigeratortocoolasitwillgostickyandsoggy.Roomtemperatureisbest.
ETONMESSBOMBESERVES8–10
EveryonelovesEtonmess,butasthenamesuggests,it’snotthemostelegant-lookingdessert.Somytwististofreezeitinapuddingbasinandthenturnitoutbeforeserving.Pouroverastrawberrycoulisandtopwithgratedchocolateanditsmakeoverfromnurseryfoodtodinnerpartyshow-stopperiscomplete.
800gstrawberries,hulled
Icingsugar,fordusting
800mldoublecream
4–6best-qualityindividualmeringuesor
1largemeringue
50gwhiteordarkchocolatetoserve(youcouldalsousedarkchocolateflavouredwithmint)
1.Cutthestrawberriesintoquarters.Dusthalfoftheminicingsugarandplaceinasmallpanoveramediumheatfor3–4minutes,untilthefruitbeginstobreakdown.
2.Blitzthehotstrawberriesinablender,thenpushthemthroughasieveplacedoverabowltoremovetheseedsandcreateasmoothcoulis.Setasidetocool.
3.Meanwhile,whipthecreamuntilitbeginstothicken,butbeforeitreachessoftpeak.Breakthemeringue(s)intobite-sizedpieces,addtothecreamandgentlyfoldin.
4.Lightlystirhalfthecoulisandallthereservedstrawberriesintothecreamtocreatearippleeffect(thiswilllookgoodwhenserving).Transferthemixturetoa2litrepuddingbasinlightlyoiledandlinedwith3layersofclingfilm,coverwithmoreclingfilmandfreezeovernight,orforatleast2½hours.
5.Toserve,carefullyrunhottapwateraroundtheoutsideofthefrozenbasinuntilthepuddingcanbereleased.Removetheclingfilmandinvertthepuddingontoaservingplate.Drizzlewiththeremainingcoulis,finelygratethechocolateoveritandserve.
HOWTOWHIPCREAMAlwayswhipcreambyhandbecauseyou’llgetmoreofafeelforthetexture,especiallywhenyouwantalooser,three-quarterwhip.Doitinbursts–10secondson,10secondsoff–togiveyourarmachancetorecover.
PEARANDGINGERGALETTESERVES4
Thisshowsjusthowquickandeasyitcanbetomakeafruittart,especiallyifyoutakethecheat’soptionofready-madepastry(inwhichcaseyou’llneeda320gsheetofall-buttersweetshortcrust).Youdon’tevenneedatarttinbecausethecrimpededgeskeepeverythinginplace.Iliketomakeonelargetartforafamilysupper,butyoucouldmakeindividualonesforamoreformaldinner.
4pears,peeled,quarteredandcored
1tbspdemerarasugar
1ballofpreservedstemginger,finelychopped
2tbspstemgingersyrup
3cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandfinelygratedZestof1lemon
1free-rangeeggyolk
Icingsugar,fordustingCream,toserve
FORTHESWEETSHORTCRUSTPASTRY225gplainflour
2tbspicingsugar
150gcoldbutter,dicedZestof1lemon1free-rangeegg,beaten
1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Lineabakingsheetwithgreaseprooforbakingpaper.
2.Firstmakethepastry.Sifttheflourandicingsugarintoabowl.Addthebutterandrubitinwithyourfingertipsuntilthemixtureresemblescoarsebreadcrumbs.Stirinthelemonzest,thenaddtheeggandmixtocombine.Graduallyaddjustenoughice-coldwater(1–2tablespoons)toformadough.Kneadlightlyintoasmoothball,thenwrapinclingfilmandchillforatleast30minutes.
3.Whenready,flouraworksurfaceandrolloutthepastrytoathicknessof4mm(slightlythickerthana£1coin).Placea22cmdinnerplateupside-downonthepastryandcutaroundit.Transferthepastrycircletothepreparedbakingsheet.Theexcesspastrycanbesetasideforuseinanotherdishorfrozen.
4.Mixtogetherthepears,demerarasugar,bothgingers,thegingersyrupandhalfthelemonzest.
5.Arrangethepearsinaneatpatternaroundthecentreofthepastry,leavinga3cmemptyborderaroundtheedge.Brushtheborderwiththebeateneggyolk.
6.Foldupthepastryborderaroundthepears,crimpingitintoawavy‘wall’.Brushthetopofthepastryrimwithmoreeggwash,thendusteverythingwithicingsugar.Sprinkletheremaininglemonzestoverthetopandbakefor30–35minutes,untilthepastryisgoldenandthepearstenderandcaramelisingslightly.
7.Dustthefinishedtartwithalightsprinklingoficingsugar,thensliceandservewithalittlepouringcream.
MANGOPARFAITPOTSWITHMACERATEDBERRIESSERVES4
Aparfaitisnormallymadewitheggsandwhippedcream,butusingyoghurtsweetenedonlywithfruit,ashere,makesitlessrichbutnolessluxurious.DolookoutforIndianAlphonsomangoesduringtheirshortseasoninMayandJune.Theirsweetperfumedfleshisunrivalled.Ifthisallsoundstoohealthy,youcouldalwaysaddabitofalcoholtothemaceratedberries.CointreauorCrèmedecassiswouldbothbegood.
1ripemango
500mlnaturalyoghurt
FORTHEMACERATEDFRUIT200gmixedberries,e.g.blackberries,raspberriesandstrawberries,
hulledandquarteredorhalvedZestandjuiceof1smallorange
1tbspicingsugar
Smallhandfulofbasilleaves,finelyshredded
1.Firstpreparetheberries.Placetheminabowlandaddtheorangezest,sugarandbasil.Mixwell,coverwithclingfilmandsetasidetomacerateforanhourortwo.
2.Meanwhile,peelthemangoandremovethestone.Puréethefleshinablenderuntilsmooth.Layerthepuréeandyoghurtin4×200mlservingglassesandchilluntilrequired.(Ifyouhavetime,youmightliketoalternatethelayerstocreateastripyeffect.)
3.Whenreadytoserve,topeachglasswiththemaceratedberries.
HOWTOFREEZEPARFAITSParfaitscaneasilybemadeinadvance,ifpreferred,andthenfrozen.Removethemfromthefreezer10minutesbeforeservingtoallowthemtotemper.
WHITECHOCOLATEANDLIMEMOUSSESERVES4
Here’sastunninglysimplecrowd-pleasingdessertthatbringstogethertheclassicflavoursofchocolate,cream,raspberriesandmint.Thelimezestnotonlylooksprettybuthelpscuttherichnessofthemousse.
100gwhitechocolate
300mldoublecream
Zestof1lime,plusextratogarnish3largefree-rangeeggs,whitesonly50gcastersugar
150graspberries
3mintsprigs,leavestornorfinelyshredded
1.Breakthechocolateintosmallpiecesandplaceinaheatproofbowl.
2.Placehalfthecreaminasmallsaucepanandheatuntilitbeginstoboil.Pouritimmediatelyoverthechocolateandstiruntilthemixtureissmooth.Placethelimezestandtherestofthecreamintoanotherbowlandwhiskuntilitformssoftpeaks.Foldthismixtureintothemeltedchocolate.Setaside.
3.Inaseparatebowl,whisktheeggwhitesuntiltheyformsoftpeaks.Whiskinthesugaratablespoonatatime,andcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixtureisshiny,smoothandhasstiffpeaksthatholdtheirshape.Carefullyfolditintothechocolatemixture.
4.Setsomeraspberriesasideforgarnish,placetheresttogetherwiththemintinto4×200mlglassesora1litreservingbowl.Crushthefruitlightlywithafork.Spoonthechocolatemousseovertheraspberries,garnishwithafewextrafreshraspberriesandsprinklewithgratedwhitechocolateandlimezestandchillforatleast2hours,orovernightifyouhavethetime.
THESECRETTOPERFECTLYWHISKEDEGGWHITESTowhiskeggwhitesyouneedaspotlesslycleanbowlandbeaters.Any
Towhiskeggwhitesyouneedaspotlesslycleanbowlandbeaters.Anygreasewillstopthewhitesfromformingpeaks.
APPLECOMPOTEWITHACREAMYWHIPSERVES6
Atheartthisisjuststewedapplesandcream,butitshowshow,ifyouwantto,youcanenhanceeverycomponentofadishtocreatesomethinggreaterthanthesumofitsparts.Ilovethetasteofcaramelisedapplesinatartetatin,sowhynotrecreatethesameeffecthere,withsomespicesthrowninforgoodmeasure?Andbyaddingbeateneggwhitestothecream,youendupwithatoppingaslightassnow.
250gcastersugar
2dessertapplese.g.Braeburn,peeled,coredandchoppedintochunks2Bramleyapples,peeled,coredandchoppedintochunks3cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandthicklysliced
3smallcinnamonsticks
75gbutter
2free-rangeeggwhites
250mldoublecream
Zestof1lemon
1.Sprinkle200gofthesugarintoahotheavy-basedpaninanevenlayer.Heatwithoutstirringuntilitbecomesagoldencaramel,swirlingthepannowandagainforanevencolour.
2.Addtheapples,gingerandcinnamonsticksandswirlsothateverythingiscoatedinthecaramel.Cookoveralowheatfor5minutes,thenaddthebutter.Cookforafurther5minutes,oruntiltheapplesaresoftandcollapsing.
3.Pourthemixtureintoasievesetoverabowlandallowtodrain.Reservetheliquid.
4.Removethegingerandcinnamonfromtheapplemixture,thenspoonthefruitinto6×175mlservingglasses.Reserveanyexcesscookingjuices.Chillforanhourorso.
5.Meanwhile,whisktheeggwhitesuntiltheyformsoftpeaks.Nowwhiskintheremainingsugaralittleatatime,untilthemixtureformsstiff,glossypeaks.
6.Inaseparatebowl,whipthecreamuntilthickenedandjustreachingsoftpeaks.Addthree-quartersofthelemonzestandgentlymix,thenstirintheremainingappleliquid(youcanreservesometodrizzleontop,ifliked).Finally,foldtheeggwhitesintothecreammixtureuntilcombined.
7.Spoonorpipethecreammixtureovereachchilleddishofapplecompote.Sprinkleovertheremaininglemonzestand,ifyoulike,drizzleoveranyreservedcookingjuices.Chillfor30minutesbeforeserving.
STEAMEDDATEPUDDINGWITHBUTTERSCOTCHSAUCESERVES6–8
Therearesomedishesyoushouldn’tmesswith,andthisisoneofthem.Justthinkingaboutitmakesmefeellikeakidagain.Inanageofmicrowavesandfastfood,itmayseemoddhavingtosteamapuddingfortwohours,butthisold-fashioneddessertwellrewardsthetimeyouinvest,Ipromise.
200gself-raisingflour75gsuet75gwalnuthalves,chopped175gpittedMedjooldates,roughlychopped
Finelygratedzestof1orange3tbsplightmuscovadosugar,orlightbrownsugar
1heapedtbspblacktreacle
1free-rangeegg
200mlwholemilk
FORTHEBUTTERSCOTCHSAUCE100gbutter75gsoftlightbrownsugar75ggoldensyrupPinchofcoarseseasaltSeedsfrom1vanillapod300mldoublecream1.
Greasean850mlpuddingbasinandlinethebottomwithacircleofbakingpaper.Cutanothercircleofbakingpaperabout5cmbiggerthanthetopofthebasinandmakea2cmpleatinthemiddle.
2.Sifttheflourintoalargebowl,thenaddthesuet,walnuts,dates,orangezest,sugarandtreacleandstirtogether.
3.Inaseparatebowl,lightlybeattheegg,thenaddthemilkandmixwell.Slowlypourthisliquidintotheflourmixture,stirringconstantlyuntilwellincorporated.Pourintothepreparedpuddingbasin.Placethepleatedpapercircleontopofthepuddingandcoverwithpleatedfoil.Tiesecurelyinplacewithstring,loopingitacrossthetoptomakeahandle.
4.Putatrivetorheatproofsaucerinalargesaucepan.Sitthepuddingontopandpourinenoughwatertocomehalfwayupthesidesofthebasin.Coverthepanwithatight-fittinglid,bringtotheboil,thensimmergentlyfor2–2¼hours,toppingupthewaterasnecessary.Whencooked,liftthepuddingoutofthewaterandleaveittositfor5minutes.
5.Meanwhile,makethesauce.Putthebutter,sugar,syrup,saltandvanillaseedsintoasmallsaucepanandplaceoveramediumheatuntileverythinghasmeltedtogether.Stirinthecreamandbubblefor5minutes,untilthemixturehasthickenedslightly.
6.Unwrapthepudding,invertitontoaservingplateandremovethesmallpapercircle.Servewedgesorspoonfulsofthepuddingwithagenerousdrizzleofthebutterscotchsauce.
USINGSUETSuethasfallenoutoffavourbutisafeatureofmanyclassicBritish
SuethasfallenoutoffavourbutisafeatureofmanyclassicBritishpuddings,fromJamRoly-polytoSpottedDick.Itaddstextureanddepthofflavourtoyourcooking,butifyouprefer,youcangrateinfrozenbutterasanalternative.
CHILLIPOACHEDPEARSWITHSTARANISEDUSTSERVES4
Thisisoneofthosepuddingsthattastessomuchmorecomplexthanitis,withthewarmingspicesaddinglayersofinteresttothesweetpears.Ilovecookingwithstaranise,whichisoneofthemainingredientsinChinesefive-spice.I’lloftenaddthestar-shapedpodstostocksandsyrups,asIdohere,butgrindingittoapowderandsprinklingitoverthepearsatthelastmomentalsomakesthedishbeautifullyfragrant.
125gcastersugar
1redchilli,halvedlengthways
Pinchofsaffron(optional)
2wholestaranise
4Conferencepears,peeled
FORTHEDUST4staranise
1tspgroundginger
1.Trimasmallsliceoffthebottomofthepearssothattheysituprightwhenyoucometoservethem.
2.Putthesugar,chilli,saffron(ifusing)andthestaraniseintoasaucepanlargeenoughtoholdthepearsandadd500mlwater.Placeoveramediumheatuntilthesugarhasdissolved,thenaddthepears.Simmergentlyfor8–10minutes,untilthepearsaretenderbutstillholdingtheirshape.
3.Meanwhile,makethedust.Putthestaraniseintoamortarandgrindtoapowderusingthepestle.Mixwiththegroundginger,thenstoreinascrewtopjaruntilneeded.
4.Whenthepearsareready,removethemfromthepan.Placethepoachingliquoroveramediumheatandreducefor10––––15minutesuntilthickenedandsyrupy.Eitherserveimmediatelyorsetasideandallowthepearstocoolinthesyrupovernight–thiswillintensifytheflavours.
5.Servethepearswarmorcoldwithalittlesyrupspoonedoverandsomestaranisedustsprinkledontop.
HOWTOCHOOSEPEARSFORPOACHINGThepearsshouldberipebutnotsoftorelsetheywilllosetheirshapewhenyoupoachthem.Trytoleavethestalkonwhenyoupeelthemforamoreprofessionallook.
CHOCOLATEANDPISTACHIOSEMIFREDDOSERVES10
Thesemifreddo(Italianfor‘half-cold’)isabitlikeacheat’sicecream.Youdon’thavetomakeacustardbaseorchurnitsmoothinanicecreammaker,yousimplycombinebeateneggs,whippedcreamandyourflavouringandfreezeit.Inmybook,thatmakesittheperfectmake-aheaddinnerpartypudding.
Oilorbutter,forgreasing275gdarkchocolate(70percentcocoasolids),plusextrafordecorating
4free-rangeeggs
100gcastersugar
500mldoublecreamSeedsfrom1vanillapod100gpistachionuts,looseskinrubbedoff
1.Lightlygreasetheinsideofa1kgloaftinwithoilorbutter,thenlineitwithtwolayersofclingfilm,leavingagenerousoverhang.
2.Breakthechocolateintopiecesandplaceinaheatproofbowlsetoverapanofsimmeringwater(itmustnotactuallytouchthewater).Heatuntilmelted,thenstirwellandsetasidetocoolfor5minutes.
3.Meanwhile,placetheeggsandsugarinanotherbowlandwhiskfor3–4minutes,untilpale,thickandfluffy.Whenthewhiskisraisedthemixtureshouldleaveatrailonthesurface.
4.Stirthecooledchocolateintotheeggmixture.
5.Putthecreamandvanillaseedsinaseparatebowlandwhiskuntilthemixtureformssoftpeaks.
6.Addthewhippedcreamtothechocolatemixture,thenfoldinthepistachios.Pourintothepreparedloaftin,coverwiththeoverhangingclingfilmandfreezeovernight,orforatleast3–4hours.(Infact,itcanbefrozenforupto2weeksbeforeyouwanttouseit.)
7.Removethesemifreddofromthefreezer10minutesbeforeservinginordertosoftenalittle.Runatableknifearoundtheinsideedgesofthetin,thenpeelbackthetopclingfilmandturnthesemifreddoontoaboardorservingplate.Removetherestoftheclingfilm,thengratealittleextradarkchocolateoverthetopbeforeslicingandserving.
INDEX
A
American-stylecheesebiscuitsAnchovies:
AnchovydipwithcruditésAnchovydressingBoiledeggswithanchovysoldiers
AperolspritzjellyApples:
AppleandceleriacsaladApplecompotewithacreamywhipCinnamoneggybreadwithquickstewedapple
Avocados:AvocadoandblacksesamesprinkleonsourdoughHowtostonePrawntostadaSpicyMexicansoup
B
BaconChickenfricasséeHashbrownbakedeggswithcandiedbaconSmokybacon,sweetcornandpotatosoup
Bain-marieBaklava,lemonandpistachioBalsamicfigjamBananas:
BananaandcoconutfrittersSpicedbananatartetatin
Basil:Lemonandbasilgranita
Beans:BakedspicyMexicaneggsHerbybutterbeansaladHome-madebakedbeanswithpotatocakesSpicyMexicansoup
Beef:Barbecue-styleslow-roastedbeefbrisketBeeffilletwithsalsaverdeBeefstewwithmustardsuetdumplingsSlowbraisedbeefcheekswithpappardelleStuffedribof
BeerbreadBeetroot:
Beetroot,corianderseedandorange-curedsalmonBeetroothoumouswithza’atarsprinklePotatoandbeetrootgratinRoastedbeetrootandthymerisotto
BirchermuesliBiscuits:
American-stylecheeseDulcedelechePeanutbutterandjamcookies
BloodyMarylinguineBread:
AvocadoandblacksesamesprinkleonsourdoughBeerbreadChipbuttyCinnamoneggybreadCourgetteandricottabruschettePanbagnatPear,goat’scheeseandwalnuttartineSaffronflatbreadsSourdoughWelshrarebitfingers
Brittle,cinnamonhazelnutBroccoli:
BroccolislawChargrilledbroccoliandbulgursalad
Bruschette,courgetteandricottaBubbleandsqueakjacketpotatoesBulgurandchargrilledbroccolisaladButter
MintParsley
Buttermilk:Buttermilk-friedchickenHarissa,mintandbuttermilkdressing
Butterscotchsauce
C
Cabbage:CrunchylightcoleslawTwice-bakedbubbleandsqueakjacketpotatoes
CaesarsaladCakes:
ChocolateandmintcaramelLemonandpoppyseedmadeleinesPearandcrunchygranolamuffins
Caramel:ChocolateandmintcaramelcakeCoolingcaramelDulcedelechebiscuitsSaltedcaramelpopcorn
Carpaccio:Pineapplecarpacciowithpomegranateand
vanillasaltCarrots:
BraisedpeasandcarrotswithmintbutterCarrot,cuminandorangesalad
Celeriac:Appleandceleriacsalad
Celery:Quicksweetpickledcelery
Ceviche,mackerelCheese:
American-stylecheesebiscuitsBurratawithquickbalsamicfigjamandcrostiniCaesarsaladCrushedpotatoeswithspringonionsandcheese
FennelsausagefrittataFeta,watermelon,cucumberandmintsaladHalloumi,courgetteandherbcakesMerguez-sausage-and-Fontina-stuffedcroissantsPanbagnatPear,goat’scheeseandwalnuttartinePloughman’ssaladShepherd’spiewithcheesechamptoppingWelshrarebitfingersSeealsoricottacheeseChicken:ButterflyingachickenbreastButtermilk-friedchickenCaesarsaladChickenfricasséeCrispyskinonroastchickenGriddledchickenthighswithchickpeas,piquillopeppersand
lemonydressingRoastchickenwithchickpeastuffingStickyspicedchickenwingsStock
Chickpeas:Beetroothoumouswithza’atarsprinkleGriddledchickenthighswithchickpeas,piquillopeppersand
lemonydressingRoastchickenwithchickpeastuffing
Chillies:ChillidressingChillimintedmushypeasChillipoachedpearsGrilledlobsterwithchilli,garlicandparsleybutterHandlingMaximisingheatfromPicodegallodip
SpicyclamnoodlesoupSpicyMexicansoupThairicewithcurrypasteandgreenherbs
ChinesebraisedoxtailChinesepancakes,crispyroastduckwithChipbuttyChocolate:
ChocolateandmintcaramelcakeChocolateandpistachiosemifreddoCranberry,marshmallowandpeanutchocolatefridgecakeWhitechocolateandlimemousse
Cinnamon:CinnamoneggybreadCinnamonhazelnutbrittle
Clams:Spicyclamnoodlesoup
Coconut:Bananaandcoconutfritters
Coffee:EspressopannacottaColeslaw,crunchylight
Compote,appleCookies,peanutbutterandjamCourgettes:
CourgetteandricottabruschetteHalloumi,courgetteandherbcakesPanbagnatCranberry,marshmallowandpeanutchocolatefridgecake
Cream:EtonmessbombeWhippingCrèmecaramel,lavenderCroissants,merguez-sausage-and-Fontina-stuffed
Cucumber:
Cucumber:Feta,watermelon,cucumberandmintsaladGazpachoHoisinandcucumbersaladPrawnandcucumbersalad
Custard,perfect
D
Dates:Steameddatepuddingwithbutterscotchsauce
Dips:AnchovyPicodegallo
DressingsAsianChilliHarissa,mintandbuttermilkLemonyMintandyoghurtMixingParmesanPeanutVinaigrette
Duck:CrispyroastduckwithChinesepancakes
DulcedelechebiscuitsDumplings,beefstewwithmustardsuet
E
Eggs:BakedspicyMexicanBoiledeggswithanchovysoldiersCinnamoneggybreadEggsBenedictwithcrispyParmahamFennelsausagefrittataHashbrownbakedeggswithcandiedbaconHollandaisesauceHowtosoftboilPeelinghard-boiledPoachedScotcheggsScrambledSmokedhaddockandspinachbakedeggsSpicedeggandspinachbreakfastwrapTunaniçoisesaladWhiskingeggwhites
EspressopannacottaEtonmessbombe
F
FennelsausagefrittataFigs:
QuickbalsamicfigjamFish:
Beetroot,corianderseedandorange-curedsalmonChoosingandhandlingGingerbeer-batteredfishGriddledsardineswithgremolataHome-madefishfingersMackerelcevichewithshavedfennelandgrapefruitSalt-crustseabreamSmokedhaddockandspinachbakedeggsStickyteriyakisalmonTunaniçoisesalad
Flatbreads,saffronFlourFreezingfoodFridgecake,cranberry,marshmallowandpeanutchocolateFrittata,fennelsausageFritters,bananaandcoconutFruit:
TangyfruitsaladUsinginjelliesSeealsoindividualtypesoffruit
G
Galette,pearandgingerGazpachoGinger:
Gingerbeer-batteredfishPearandgingergalettePeelingrootginger
Goat’scurd,griddledpolentawithroastedvinetomatoesandGoldensyrupGranita,lemonandbasilGranola:
Home-madePearandcrunchygranolamuffins
Grapefruit,mackerelcevichewithshavedfennelandGratin,potatoandbeetrootGreenbeans:
Stir-friedgreenbeanswithsoyandpeanutdressingTunaniçoisesalad
Gremolata,griddledsardineswithGriddles,usingGrilling
H
Ham:EggsBenedictwithcrispyParmahamPanbagnat
HashbrownbakedeggswithcandiedbaconHazelnuts:
BraisedleekswithhazelnutsCinnamonhazelnutbrittleHazelnutmeringuetower
Herbs:ChoppingHalloumi,courgetteandherbcakesHerbybutterbeansaladSalsaverdeUsingfreshherbs
HollandaisesauceHoney:
CrispyfilowithhoneyedyoghurtMeasuring
HorseradishYorkshirepuddingsHotpot,sausageandcaramelisedredonionHoumous,beetroot
J
Jam:PeanutbutterandjamcookiesQuickbalsamicfig
Jars,sterilisingJelly
AperolspritzjellyUsingfruitin
Juliennestrips,cutting
L
Lamb:AromaticlambchopswithmintyyoghurtLambkoftaswithmintandyoghurtdressingMakingyourownminceShepherd’spiewithcheesechamptopping
LavendercrèmecaramelLeeks:
BraisedleekswithhazelnutsLemons:
JuicingLemonandbasilgranitaLemonandpistachiobaklavaLemonandpoppyseedmadeleinesLemonydressing
Lime:Whitechocolateandlimemousse
Lobster:Grilledlobsterwithchilli,garlicandparsleybutter
M
MangoparfaitpotsMarshmallows:
Cranberry,marshmallowandpeanutchocolatefridgecakeMayonnaise,chipotleMerguez-sausage-and-Fontina-stuffedcroissantsMeringues:
EtonmessbombeHazelnutmeringuetower
Mexicaneggs,bakedspicyMexicansoup,spicyMint:
AromaticlambchopswithmintyyoghurtChillimintedmushypeasChocolateandmintcaramelcakeFeta,watermelon,cucumberandmintsaladHarissa,mintandbuttermilkdressingLambkoftaswithmintandyoghurtdressingMintbutter
Mousse,whitechocolateandlimeMuesli,quickbircherMuffins,pearandcrunchygranolaMusselswithcherrytomatoesandpancettaMustardsuetdumplings
N
Noodles:SpicyclamnoodlesoupNutsseeindividualtypes
O
OatsHome-madegranolaPearandcrunchygranolamuffinsQuickbirchermuesliSpicedbakedporridge
Olives:PanbagnatTunaniçoisesalad
Onions:QuickpickledSausageandcaramelisedredonionhotpot
Oranges:Beetroot,corianderseedandorange-curedsalmonCarrot,cuminandorangesalad
Oxtail,Chinesebraised
P
PanbagnatPancetta,steamedmusselswithcherrytomatoesandPannacotta,espressoParmaham,eggsBenedictwithPparsleybutterPasta:
BloodyMarylinguineCookingMakingsilkypastasaucesOrzopastasaladSlowbraisedbeefcheekswithpappardellePastrySweetshortcrust
Peanuts:Cranberry,marshmallowandpeanutchocolate
fridgecakePeanutbutterandjamcookiesPeanutdressing
Pears:ChillipoachedpearsPearandcrunchygranolamuffinsPearandgingergalettePear,goat’scheeseandwalnuttartine
Peas:BraisedpeasandcarrotswithmintbutterChillimintedmushypeas
Peppers:GazpachoGriddledchickenthighswithchickpeas,piquillopeppersand
lemonydressingPanbagnat
Pesto:SundriedtomatoThymewalnut
Pickles:PickledonionsQuicksweetpickledcelery
PicodegallodipPineapplecarpacciowithpomegranateandvanillasaltPistachionuts:Chocolateandpistachiosemifreddo
LemonandpistachiobaklavaPloughman’ssaladPolenta:
Griddledpolentawithroastedvinetomatoesandcreamygoat’scurdPomegranates:
PineapplecarpacciowithpomegranateandvanillasaltPomegranatemolasses-marinatedspatchcockquail
Popcorn,saltedcaramelPork:
Slow-cookedsmokypulledporkbuttwithchipotleMayo
Porridge,spicedbakedPotatoes:
BakednewpotatoeswithtruffleandParmesanBoilingChipbuttyChoosingCrispingupmashedCrushedpotatoeswithspringonionsandcheeseFryingwithbutterHashbrownbakedeggswithcandiedbacon
Home-madebakedbeanswithpotatocakesPotatoandbeetrootgratinSautéedShepherd’spiewithcheesechamptoppingSmokybacon,sweetcornandpotatosoupSpicedsweetpotatowedgesTunaniçoisesaladTwice-bakedbubbleandsqueakjacketpotatoes
Prawns:PrawnandcucumbersaladPrawntostada
Q
Quail,pomegranatemolasses-marinatedspatchcockQuinoasalad
R
RadishsaladRice:
RoastedbeetrootandthymerisottoStir-fryingcookedriceThairicewithcurrypasteandgreenherbs
Ricottacheese:Courgetteandricottabruschette
S
SaffronflatbreadsSaladsSalsaverdeSalt:
SaltedcaramelpopcornUsinginsweetdishesVanillasalt
Sauces:ButterscotchDippingHollandaiseMakingsilkypastasauces
Sausages:FennelsausagefrittataMerguez-sausage-and-Fontina-stuffedcroissantsSausageandcaramelisedredonionhotpot
ScotcheggsSeasonalfoodSemifreddo,chocolateandpistachioShepherd’spiewithcheesechamptoppingShortcrustpastry,sweetSobanoodlesaladSoups:
CreamytomatosoupwithsundriedtomatopestoGazpachoSmokybacon,sweetcornandpotatoSpicyMexican
Spices:Spicedbakedporridge
SpicedeggandspinachbreakfastwrapSpicyclamnoodlesoupSpicyMexicaneggsSpicyMexicansoupToasting
Spinach:SmokedhaddockandspinachbakedeggsSpicedeggandspinachbreakfastwrapStuffedribofbeef
Stew:Beefstewwithmustardsuetdumplings
Stirfries:StirfriedgreenbeanswithsoyandpeanutdressingStir-fryingcookedrice
StockStorecupboardStrawberries:
EtonmessbombeSuet:
BeefstewwithmustardsuetdumplingsSteameddatepuddingUsing
Sugar,choosingthecorrectSundriedtomatoes:panbagnat
SundriedtomatopestoSweetpotatoes:
SpicedsweetpotatowedgesSweetcorn:
Smokybacon,sweetcornandpotatosoup
T
Tartine,pear,goat’scheeseandwalnutTarts:
PearandgingergaletteSpicedbananatartetatin
ThairicewithcurrypasteandgreenherbsThyme:
RoastedbeetrootandthymerisottoThymewalnutpesto
Tins,bakingTomatoes:
BloodyMarylinguineCreamytomatosoupwithsundriedtomatopestoEnhancingtheflavourGazpachoGriddledpolentawithroastedvinetomatoes
andcreamygoat’scurdHome-madebakedbeanswithpotatocakesPanbagnatSlow-roastedtomatoandwatercresssaladSteamedmusselswithcherrytomatoesandpancetta
Tostada,prawnTruffles:
BakednewpotatoeswithtruffleandParmesanTunaniçoisesalad
V
VanillasaltVinaigrette,classic
W
Walnuts:Pear,goat’scheeseandwalnuttartineThymewalnutpesto
Watercress:Slow-roastedtomatoandwatercresssalad
Watermelon:Feta,watermelon,cucumberandmintsalad
Welshrarebitfingers
Y
Yoghurt:CrispyfilowithhoneyedyoghurtLambkoftaswithmintandyoghurtdressing
Yorkshirepuddings,horseradish
Z
Za’atarZestingcitrusfruit
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
FirstlyamassivethankyoutomyincrediblewifeTanaforherinputandsupportandtoourfourchildren,Megan,Jack,HollyandTillyfortheirinvolvementandforbeingsuchamazingsports.Icouldneverdoitwithoutyou.
ThevisionandcommitmentfromthetalentedHodderteam–NickyRoss,SarahHammond,AlasdairOliver,KateBrunt,SusanSpratt,JoannaSeatonandEleniLawrence–hasmadeanotherexcitingandengagingbookpossible.
ImustmentiontheaccomplishedTonyTurnbullforhisdedicatedassistanceinproducingyetanotherwonderfulbook.
SarahDurdinRobertsonandLisaHarrisondeserverecognitionforselflesslypouringtheirheartsandsoulsintoeverythingtheydoforme.I’dalsoliketothankAnnaBurges-Lumsdenforhercontinuedhardworkandsupport.
JamesEdgarhasmyrespectforhisgifteddesignandartdirectionwhichhasledtoanappealingandcaptivatingbook.
AbigthankyoutocopyeditorsTrishBurgessandMirenLopateguiwhoseattentiontodetailissecondtonone.
ThefabulousimagesthroughoutthebookaretheworkofphotographerConPoulosandstylistElodieRambaud,whoseflairisapparentineverypicture.
IwouldliketothankOnePotatoTwoPotatoforproducinganotherbrilliantseries,especiallyPatLlewellyn,BenAdler,SueMurphy,PaulRatcliffe,MelanieBones,ColinSteele,AnnaHorsburghandMirandaSherriff.Iamsoproudofthisteamwhoseenergyandenthusiasmneverflounders.
ThanksalsotoCharlesWalkeratUnitedAgents.Lastly,IwouldliketomentionJenniferAves-Elliott,myassistant,whose
extraordinaryskillsandpatienceenablemetoachievesomuchofwhatIdo.Iremaineternallygrateful.