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EATING OUT
TIVOLI ROAD BAKERYLisa Holmen
ON IT BURGERSBurgers of Melbourne
THE SPOTThe Hungry Babushka
BRAEMegan Osborne
REGULARSFEATURE COOKING
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12
20
24
28
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TORTA DI PERA E CIOCCOLATOPEAR AND CHOCOLATE CAKEEmiko Davies 32
CONTRIBUTORS
NEWLY OPENED
AROUND THE TRAPS
THINGS WE LOVE
REVIEWS
OUT AND ABOUT
THE DIARY
GRAM DIRECTORY
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6
7
16
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36
38
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CONTENTS
TALKING IN TONGUES
A GUIDE TO UNDERSTANDING
‘WINESPEAK’
Charley May
CHEF JACQUES LA MERDE
A.K.A. CHRISTINE FLYNN
Lauren Bruce
INTERVIEW
Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
ON THE COVER: LATTE
A latte is a coffee drink made with espresso and steamed milk. The term as used in English is a shortened form of the Italian caffè latte,
caffelatte or caffellatte, which means “milk coffee”. The word is also sometimes spelled latté or lattè in English with different kinds of
accent marks, which can be a hyperforeignism or a deliberate attempt to indicate that the word is not pronounced according to the
rules of English orthography.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Jess Hourigan
DEPUTY EDITOR
Lauren Bruce
DEPUTY EDITOR
Megan Osborne
COVER DESIGN
ELEVATOR CREATIVE [email protected] www.elevatorcreative.com.au
ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES: [email protected]
EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: [email protected]
DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: [email protected]
GENERAL ENQUIRIES: [email protected]
www.grammagazine.com.au | www.thegramstore.com.au
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CONTRIBUTORS
DEAN SCHMIDEGA professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is known as one of Melbourne’s coffee addicts and foodies, regularly seeking out new and interesting cafes and bars. He shares these and the things he prepares at home across social media. His posts celebrate the produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together.
FACEBOOK: imagesdsINSTAGRAM: dsimagesTWITTER: imagesDSE: [email protected]
LAUREN BRUCELauren started her writing career as a communications adviser before she realised she couldn’t ignore her passion for food and the arts any longer. She gave up the world of state politics to concentrate on freelance writing and styling. She has since contributed to Spook, Paper Sea and Junkee and is a regular contributor to GRAM Magazine.
laurendarcybruce.wordpress.comINSTAGRAM: brucemoosemedia
ON THE BANDWAGON
Trev has earnt a reputation in the Australian craft
beer industry as a passionate advocate for local
breweries and educating the masses about the
beer they are drinking. He is the founder and Chair
of Bendigo Beer which runs many events including
the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival.
TWITTER: Onthe_bandwagon
INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon
LISA HOLMENAfter spending most of my early years in Adelaide, I moved to Melbourne in my early 20s and a few years later moved to the big smoke in London. I started my blog, lisaeatsworld.com, to share my two big passions in life – food and travel.My aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. My current country count is 35 and hope to reach 50 by the end of 2015.
lisaeatsworld.comTWITTER: lisa_eatsworldINSTAGRAM: lisaeatworldFACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld
MEGAN OSBORNEMegan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy.
meganosborne.com.auTWITTER: foodiewritings INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings
BURGERS OF MELBOURNE
Burgers of Melbourne is run by one Melbourne
guy that just loves burgers.
I eat, picture and review the burgers of
Melbourne.
burgersofmelbourne.com.au
INSTAGRAM: burgersofmelbourne
CHARLEY MAY
Charley May is a biologist by training and a wine
communicator by profession. When she’s not at
the tasting bench or crafting silky words, you’ll
find her on a river somewhere pursuing her other
great love... Fly-fishing.
TWITTER: @charleymay1
LA DONNA DEL VINO
La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this
Melbournian with a nose attuned to all things
vinous. A self-confessed Neb Head (someone who
really digs the Nebbiolo grape), she will happily try
anything once but has a penchant for full-bodied
whites, food-friendly reds and a good digestive. In
her spare time you’ll find her gardening, cooking,
dancing, drinking good vino or working on her
country property with her husband Wootten.
ladonnadelvino.com
TWITTER: ladonnadelvino
FACEBOOK: la-donna-del-vino
THE HUNGRY BABUSKHA
I bake like a mofo, but I can’t possibly eat it all, so
I’m a part-time treat-pusher.
thehungrybabushka.com
INSTAGRAM: thehungrybabushka
FACEBOOK: TheHungryBabushka
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NOW OPEN
STKBB FOOD TRUCKOPENED: January 2016Grosvenor Hotel’s premium take-away option, St Kilda Burger Bar (STKBB) is now on wheels, extending its commitment to sourcing and preparing patties made from 100 per cent certified Victorian grass fed Angus beef state-wide.
Convenience and quality have always been a focus for the STKBB, the first of its kind to be situated in a Melbourne pub drive-through. The truck will now make its range of burgers even more accessible via regular appearances at festivals and activations.
Already set to appear at a range of events around Victoria, including St Jerome’s Laneway Festival and Near the Little Sea beachside cinema, STKBB on wheels is the newest addition to Melbourne’s food truck craze.
burger.melbourne/food-truck
facebook.com/STKBB
instagram.com/stkburgerbar
CUCINA & COOPENED: January 2016There’s good news for bayside residents who have a penchant for bona fide Italian food. Brighton has a brand-new local that’s showcasing what Italians do best – pizza e vino. Cucina & Co is a 65-seat Italian restaurant summoned by industry stalwart Riccardo Bianchini and backed by his partners Peter Aloi of Cafe Duomo and Peter Kisvarda.
Cucina & Co was designed by fellow Italian, Dominic Ridolfi of Ridolfi Architecture, who sought out a minimalist aesthetic with an informal and chic look. Stone, steel and leather come together to create a space that’s inviting and modern and a move away from the tired old Italian eatery.
With a focus on authentic food and cheeky, charming service dished out with classic Italian flair, diners can pick from a seasonal a la carte menu, which includes wood-fired pizzas, homemade gnocchi, and daily specials.
325 NEW STREET, BRIGHTONfacebook.com/Cucina-Co
GEORGE JONES EATERYOPENED: February 4, 2016Realising that there was a gap in the Pascoe Vale market for an all day eatery serving modern plates and excellent coffee, Paul Vernuccio decided to open his own. With two cafés already under his belt (Cheeky Monkey and Rubber Duck), Vernuccio created George Jones Eatery, a 140-seater venue that opened on February 4th 2016.
Paying tribute to the first business owner in the area (the original Mr Jones opened a general store 74 years ago), George Jones espouses the same three ethos as Vernuccio’s other two establishments: simplicity, honesty and consistency. More importantly, Vernuccio wanted to create a retreat for nearby residents to proudly claim as their local haunt.
Assisting Vernuccio is General Manager Pim Muter and Consulting Chef Jason Shiong (ex-Longrain and Di Bella Coffee Roasting Warehouse)
15C PASCOE STREET, PASCOE VALEfacebook.com/GeorgejonesEatery
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AROUND THE TRAPS
MICE 2016 EXPANDS TO INCLUDE COFFEE WEEK
The Melbourne International Coffee Expo (MICE) has brought industry professionals from all over Australia to our coffee famous city for the past four years.
The biggest names representing some of the world’s biggest brands fly to Melbourne for the week, to network, and to engage with their clients.
Winners of the Australian Specialty Coffee Association (ASCA) regional championships fly to the city to compete in the national competitions, as do ASCA judges, sponsors and supporters. MICE is an opportunity for knowledge leaders to come together.
On top of that, MICE’s public day is creating a bigger buzz with the general community each year.
With so much talent in one place, it’s only natural that events have begun springing up around the time of the show each year. With this in mind, MICE is introducing Melbourne Coffee Week, and encouraging cafés, roasters and everyone else in the industry to get involved.
From 10 – 19 March, the coffee community is encouraged to put on a party, introduce a special offer, invite coffee lovers to taste their brews, expand their knowledge, launch a new product, or celebrate coffee in whichever way they see fit.
The Melbourne Coffee Week website will provide a space to advertise these events and one central location for consumers to find out what’s happening.
Registration will include media support through, MICE’s databases, MICE’s Media Partners and Melbourne Coffee Week’s social media channels.
There are currently a number of exciting events registered, which we would love to see you at, kicking off with
Australian Pura Latte Art Championship on 4 – 5 March, Queensbridge Square – to find out what else’s happening in March or to register an event click go to:
MELBOURNECOFFEEWEEK.COM.AU
RedSteelite “Craft”
NEW
Exclusive to Cedar223 - 231 Brunswick Rd Brunswick VIC 3056
T: 03 9387 4455 F: 03 9387 [email protected]
cedarhospitality.com Basement141 Flinders LaneMelbourne 3000+61 3 9650 3155
20 Duckboard PlaceMelbourne 3000+61 3 9650 3155
Adam D’ SylvaChef/Owner
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WORDS LISA HOLMEN PHOTOGRAPHY LISA HOLMEN, BEC HUDSON AND ALBERT COMPER
TIVOLI ROAD BAKERY3 Tivoli Road, South Yarra
There’s a delicious aroma on Tivoli Road, which has hordes of hungry locals
and tourists salivating at the slightest whiff. Follow your nose towards the
lingering smell of freshly baked breads and pastries and you’ll soon find one
of South Yarra’s most popular haunts, the Tivoli Road Bakery, just a stone’s
throw from Toorak Road.
Hailing from Penzance in West Cornwall, Head Baker, Michael James owns
the bakery with his wife Pippa. Formerly known as MoVida Bakery, where
James was Head Baker, the establishment was renamed Tivoli Road Bakery
after the duo took the reigns in 2013. Their long-term labour of love has
since gone from strength to strength due to their commitment to baking
quality products with attention and care.
Open daily for breakfast and lunch, the artisan bakery café offers a
sumptuous range of treats to satisfy the fussiest of taste buds. From freshly
baked loaves of sourdough, to buttery croissants and salted caramel filled
doughnuts, rest assured, you’ll be more than looked after here.
With a sleek contemporary fit out, the bakery has a semi-Scandinavian feel
with its use of blonde timber and minimalist décor. Tables are limited and fill
quickly at peak times. Sit in the heart of the action at the communal table
overlooking the kitchen and watch pastries baked fresh before your eyes,
or pull up a bar seat by the window and people watch. If you’re lucky (or
early), nab one of the prized outdoor tables on tree-lined Tivoli Road and
enjoy a treat with your pooch. It’s welcoming and friendly, and refreshingly
unpretentious.
The bakery has searched far and wide to use premium local produce,
including St David Dairy, Wholegrain Milling organic flour and free-range
eggs from the Grampians. On the all day menu there’s a granola teamed
with fresh fruit and organic yoghurt, a nicely prepared olive toast with
heirloom tomatoes, ricotta and white balsamic and my personal favourite
– the lovage cured salmon on rye, remoulade and mustard leaf. Freshly cut
sandwiches (available from 11am) are chock full of delicious gourmet fillings,
and sell out like hotcakes. For something a little “meatier” you can’t go past
a good old-fashioned sausage roll or a gourmet pie washed down with one
of their iced lattes or a Small Batch espresso.
Bread is a definite focus here and is a craft, which James likens to an art.
Ogle at the impressive array of expertly crafted bread stacked neatly on the
wooden shelves. Each loaf is baked fresh each morning and is sold out on
most days. There’s spelt, soy, linseed, multigrain and rye, just to name a few.
All breads are sourdough based, made using locally milled, organic flour
and baked on a stone hearth. The baking team live by the philosophy: “Great
bread that’s good for you should be made using only flour, water, salt and
wild yeast.” No additives, improvers or stabilisers here.
According to James, baking bread is a long process, which needs to be
timed to perfection. “We only use flour, water and salt and we mill a small
percentage of our flour to keep it fresh and full of nutrients and oils. We do
not use added gluten or ascorbic acid. We like to keep it natural and simple
with our organic flour,” he says.
Come here early to enjoy the best range of mouth watering cakes and
pastries from the front cabinet, which will have sweet-tooths quivering
with joy at a single glance. Doughnuts are crispy and golden, oozing with
decadent fillings like salted caramel and lemon curd, while Danish pastries
are laden with fresh fruit including an incredibly decadent strawberry and
pistachio number. And that’s just the start of it.
After winning a number of awards, their hot cross buns have developed a
cult status in Melbourne. They have a glistening golden, sticky glaze and
are studded with plenty of fruit, sultanas and a subtle touch of spice and
nutmeg. The texture is lovely and moist and is delicious eating as is or
toasted and smothered in butter. But be prepared to come early, with all
good things in Melbourne come crowds. In their first day of sale this year
they sold out within the hour.
There’s so much to love about Tivoli Road Bakery. It makes me want to move
to South Yarra just to be a local, but my hips would never forgive me!
TIVOLI ROAD BAKERY3 Tivoli Road, South Yarra
(03) 9041 4345
tivoliroad.com.au
facebook.com/Tivoli-Road-Bakery | instagram.com/tivoliroadbakery
EATING OUT SOUTH YARRA
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WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BURGERS OF MELBOURNE
ON IT BURGERS
On It Burgers has been rated one of Melbourne’s burger venues by a many
burger connoisseur. Being in the far eastern suburb of Ferntree Gully
however, has made it difficult for many Melburnians to taste what has made
On It so popular. In January 2016, On It Burgers expanded, and opened its
second franchise in the inner suburb of Abbotsford.
I’ve visited On It Burgers a number of times over the past few years. I’ve
sampled four of their most popular burgers, tasted a range of exciting
milkshakes, fell in love with their onion rings and have to agree with those
who have eaten there before me, that On It Burgers is definitely up there as
one of Melbourne’s best burger joints.
My On It experience began with the popular, Double Hero: two grass fed
beef patties, two slices of American cheese, lettuce, red onion, pickle with
Hero sauce, topped with onion rings.
There wasn’t a whole lot you could fault with this burger - the patties were
cooked medium, the house sauce was on point and the cheese was melted
to perfection. The patty size is 120 grams, so adding a second patty is highly
recommended.
Next off the bat, I gave their famous Bacon Jammy a shot. This is the burger
which made On It famous out in the East, so I felt it was only fitting to give
this one a go.
Consisting of two grass fed beef, two slices of American cheese, pickles,
BACON JAM and smoky On It sauce, this burger was utter brilliance. The
awesomeness of the bacon jam hits you at the very first bite. Cooked to
perfection, this special addition is like nothing I have ever tasted before.
Sweet, yet smokey – it is a flavour that makes you crave more after every
bite.
349-351 Victoria Street, Abbotsford | 930 Burwood Highway, Ferntree Gully
ON IT BURGERS DOUBLE HERO
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On my third visit I sampled the chicken option, Spicy Chick, consisting of
fried chicken, Sriracha mayo, slaw and lettuce on a sexy black a bun. The
fried chicken was juicy and crunchy and the slaw and crisp lettuce made the
perfect accompaniments.
Finishing up my burger adventure at On It, I ordered The Blackbeard. A soft
shell crab burgers with Sriracha, slaw, coriander and Hero sauce also on a
black bun.
Ironically, the Blackbeard is a burger I would usually avoid when hitting up a
burger restaurant. Not that there is anything wrong with soft shell crab, only
because I tend to gravitate towards the beef options, with chicken the next
on my hit list. Having said that, I really enjoyed this burger. While coriander
may not be everyone’s cup of tea, mixed with the Sriracha it turned out to
be a great inclusion and really enhanced all the other flavours including the
crab itself.
As a side note, the onion rings are phenomenal and would have to be the
best some of the best I have ever had! They are the perfect accompaniment
with these burgers and are a must order when visiting On It. And the dipping
sauce they come with… magic!
ON IT BURGERS349-351 Victoria Street, Abbotsford
930 Burwood Highway, Ferntree Gully
onitburgers.com.au
facebook.com/onitburgers
instagram.com/onitburgers
ON IT BURGERS SPICY CHICK
ON IT BURGERS BACON JAMMY ON IT BURGERS ONION RINGS
14SHORT STRAW AT THE WELL RED SPICE ROAD
THE BOAT BUILDERS YARD & RIVERLANDBILLY’S KITCHEN
“I highly recommend Chef’s Hat for their
service, quality and support. The team are
knowledgeable and helpful, and they have a
wide range quality products to choose from.
Their delivery service makes getting your
supplies that much easier - I love that they
deliver right to my kitchen!”
John McLeay - Executive Chef
RED SPICE ROAD QV & BURMA LANE
“Great location, competitive prices, attentive and
well informed staff and a sales rep that thrives to
get your stock delivered in no time. It is always a
great excuse to duck out of the kitchen and spend
some time looking for some innovative products. “
Egor Rodichkin - Executive Chef
THE BOAT BUILDERS YARD &
RIVERLAND BAR & CAFE
“We have been a regular customers of Chef’s Hat
(South Melbourne) for several years due to their
proximity to our restaurant located in Southbank.
With our new restaurant, in the Eastern suburbs,
we continue to work with Chef’s Hat due to the
great service and range provided by Rusty & the
Chef’s Hat team. We have recently completed an
expansive fit out for a 250 seat restaurant at Knox
City Shopping centre and find Chef’s Hat an ideal
partner for virtually all our kitchen and shop fit-
out requirements. Always very prompt in ensuring
orders are placed and dispatched for quick
delivery, they have an extensive range and always
offer competitive pricing. I highly recommend
choosing Chef’s Hat as your restaurant supplier.”
Steve Bozinov - Owner
BILLY’S KITCHEN KNOX OZONE
We’ve setup a few cafes from scratch in the last
few years. Every cafe site poses new challenges
and obstacles in terms of equipment, floor plan,
work flow, maximizing seating. You’d think after
the fourth or fifth cafe it would eventually get
easier. We find things which work for us, and we
carry them on to the next business, and things
which don’t we look for alternatives. Chef’s Hat
has been a staple since the first place we setup in
2011. They put their name and reputation behind
the products they sell. It literally is a one-stop
shop for everything you’ll need to open a cafe.
Their crockery is second to none. Pricing is as
always competitive. Communication from the
sales team is impeccable.
Hugh Hindle – Owner
SHORT STRAW
“With their wealth of knowledge Chef’s Hat knows
your restaurant requirements before you do. Their
advice is genuine, their prices competitive and they
are an amazing support to any new or established
restaurant.”
Tony Tsiakos - Manager
Aaron Kahya - Chef
AT THE WELL
15BRACEGIRDLE’S HOUSE OF FINE CHOCOLATECANTEEN RICE PAPER SCISSORSUNCOMMONMEAT FISH WINE
“I have been dealing with Chef’s Hat for over 5
years and the service, variety of products and
pricing have been fantastic. They are always
available to tailor a solution to our needs and
have been right there with us as our business has
grown.”
Shane Stafford – Owner & Chef
RICE PAPER SCISSORS
“Chef’s Hat is the place to go when you want to buy
anything and everything from drinking straws and
tea light candles all the way through to ovens and
larger items, the service they provide is second to
none and they are always there for me when I need
advice or assistance. It really is Melbourne’s chefs and
passionate cook’s one stop shop for everything food
and kitchen related.”
David Schofield - Executive Chef
MEAT FISH WINE
“I love shopping at Chef’s Hat because the
customer service is fantastic, making it really easy
to set up my new business”
Bradley Johnston – Head Chef & Owner
CANTEEN (STH MELB MARKET)
“Chef’s Hat was our first choice when setting
up a new business in hospitality, the service
and convenience is something we couldn’t
look past. The range and quality of their
products has given us the confidence moving
forward now and into the future.”
Matt Kennedy - Head Chef
UNCOMMON.
“We have always found Chef’s Hat to be so easy
to deal with even though we are interstate. Their
service is very efficient and if they don’t have the
item that we require they will do their best to
source it for us”
Sue Bracegirdle – Owner
BRACEGIRDLE’S HOUSE OF
FINE CHOCOLATE
GRAM FEATURE
THINGS WE LOVE
Nestled in West Aisle in the South Melbourne Market, Babe’s Eggs have taken to the
Market’s no caged eggs policy with gusto. The Market launched their We Care about the
Chicken and the Egg campaign in November 2014 and since then no restaurants, cafes
or egg resellers are using or selling caged eggs.
Babe’s only stocks free range eggs including some farmed at the RSPCA approved 1800
hens per hectare, to their delicious Willow Zen range from a pasture-fed free range egg
farm where the hens roam at their 130 hens per hectare ratio.
It’s not only local eggs on offer, they also sell a huge range of
local honey including Jarrah, Grey Box, Clover, Red Gum, Iron
Bark and Local Flora varieties to name a few. They also make
their own raspberry, blackberry, strawberry and summerberry
jams.
BABE’S EGGS, SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET
Award Winning Coffees Since 2001
VISIT BABE’S EGGS AT STALL 164
SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU
PLATINUM SPONSORS SUPPORTING SPONSOR PROUD PARTNERS
INTERNATIONALCOFFEEE XPO.COM. AU
E V E R Y O N EFOR
MELBOURNE SHOWGROUNDS
VISIT GRAM AT STAND 4
PLATINUM SPONSORS SUPPORTING SPONSOR PROUD PARTNERS
INTERNATIONALCOFFEEE XPO.COM. AU
E V E R Y O N EFOR
MELBOURNE SHOWGROUNDS
17
5,416 likes
chefjacqueslamerde: FEELIN PRETTY BANGED UP
2DAY BROS. NOT ONLY DID I CUT MYSELF REAL
BAD ON A MICROPLANE, BUT I JUST GOT DUMPED
*AGAIN*!!!!! APPARNTLY IM “MARRIED 2 MY JOB”
AND “NOT FUN 2 BE AROUND” AND ALSO “HAVE
KIND OF LET MYSELF GO”!!! GEEZ BROS, AT LEAST
I HAVE JOSE TO HOLD ME WHILE I CRY-EAT ICE
CREAM IN THE WALKIN. DONT WORRY BOUT ME
THO BROS, IM STILL GOING TO RALLY AND CRUSH
SERVICE W/ THIS V. TIGHT DESSERT FREESTYLE
FT. PEANUT BUTTER DRUMSTICK CONE, GENERIC
BANANA GAS STATION MUFFIN CONCASSE,
SMUCKERS CHOCOLATE TOPPIN, BUTTERSCOTCH
SNACK PACK CRE1MA, HONEY TEDDY GRAMS
EARTH AND YELLO FRUIT LOOPS GARNISH!!!!
#alannismorrisettepandoranonstop #dessertlife
#cheflife #theartofplating #gastroart #plateswagger
#soignéallday #drumsticks #snackpacks #foodart
#nextlevel #real #checkoutmytinderprofilepls
2,463 likes
chefjacqueslamerde: WE R 100 P FULLY BOOKED
4 ALL FIVE SEATINGS AND OUR INTERN WAITED
UNTIL 3:15 TO CALL IN SICK!!!! LIKE WUT WORLD
ARE THESE KIDS LIVIN IN THAT THEY THINK
CHEFS GET SICK DAYS??? U THINK I DONT GET
HEADACHES OR COUGH DUE TO COLD????!!!!! I DO
BROS, BUT U KNO WUT I TAKE IT LIKE A MAN AND
I EAT A FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH AND I LISTEN
2 SOME KENNY ROGERS AND I GET MY BUTT 2
WORK!!!! EXPECT SERVICE 2 BE EPIC 2NITE EVEN
W/ ONE MAN DOWN!!! HALF OF A KFC SCORCHER
DOUBLEDOWN, INVERTED 4 OZ RAMEKIN OF
GREEN COLESLAW, BILIGUAL PLUM SAUCE DEUX
FOIS, ROSE PETALS AND FOIE GRAS!!!
#kidsthesedays #cheflife #scorcher #doubledown
#kfc #invertedcoleslaw #tweezers #soigné
#negativespace #plumsauce #elegant #finedining
#theartofplating #gastroart #fourmagazine
#chefsifig #kennyrogers #ijustdroppedin
#toseewhatcondition #myconditionwasin
19
In a sea of foodie Instagrams and sanctimonious
healthy eating social media accounts, there is
nothing more refreshing than someone making us
confront the silliness of it all.
The @chefjacqueslamerde Instagram brings this
humourous side of the food industry to the fore.
“Jacques” is a lovably thuggish chef with a giant
ego, a penchant for the words “dude” and “bro”,
and an immense pride in the art of beautiful plating.
Only “Jaqcues” isn’t plating truffled potato puree
and braised beef cheek – “Jacques” is creating a
high-end dining experience using ingredients such
as Doritos, Velveeta cheese (a processed cheese
from the US), corn dogs and cans of Spam, to
name a few.
Sounds outlandish? The @chefjacqueslamerde
account has amassed a 125k following and
counting, striking a chord with foodies and those
who work in the food industry alike.
Until the end of January this year, it remained a
mystery who was behind the account. As “Jacques”
gained a profile for the images of beautifully plated
junk food and the hilariously all-caps captions
that accompanied them, fans questioned who
was behind the account. And almost all guesses
centred around men.
The twist: On US show Top Chef in January,
“Jacques” was revealed to be Toronto-based
FEMALE chef Christine Flynn.
We had a chat to Christine shortly after the big
reveal, talking all things tweezered food, food
industry “bro culture” and the therapeutic nature
of expressing yourself creatively.
So how did you get into food in the first place?
I’ve always enjoyed working in food. I’ve always
felt it was a place where I could be creative. I’ve
been doing it for seventeen years now and I just
love it – I really enjoy the culture, which I guess is
kind of obvious by my alter ego [Jacques].
Do you think it actually is obvious, given you make fun of that culture through your @chefsjacqueslamerde account?
I think humour is different to different people.
One of the things important to me is I need to
constantly be making fun of myself. That was a
huge part of the account – I’ve obviously poked
a little fun at the more extreme elements of the
industry, but that was never meant to be malicious,
it was more just “look how silly we are sometimes
– let’s just have a little bit of a laugh”, which is why
I think people have enjoyed it.
So how did the @chefjacqueslamerde persona and account come about?
If you were to ask my mother, she would say it’s
actually just me in all-caps [laughs]! Really, I was
channelling myself at my most hysterical moments.
The character came out pretty fully formed.
Obviously I knew he was going to be a chef,
probably the chef I would be if I had been born a
man. Just this sort of bumbling goofball, constantly
getting himself into trouble, but you know, finding
a way to get out of it and give everyone that virtual
backslap to let them know that things are gonna
get better if you just push through.
So to me it was a very, and I hate to use this
expression, but it was an extremely organic
process.
So you didn’t have a run-in with some bro-like character and go, “You know what? I’m going to create a character like this”?
No - and you know I think it’s interesting how,
when you create something but don’t give an
explanation, people read a lot of different things
into it. Some people thought I was taking down
“bro culture”, or making fun of specific chefs, and I
wasn’t. I’ve been in this industry so long and 97 per
cent of my friends are men and I LOVE them. I’m
so happy to be around “bro culture”. I call people
“bro” all the time, I do the high five thing.
People were reading so much into it and really,
it was much simpler than that. I just plated food
as beautifully as I could, and [I was enjoying] the
extreme irony of going downstairs to spend five
dollars at my local La Bodega [supermarket] to
create a dish and plate it as beautifully as I could.
And that to me is what has made it funny.
You come from IQ Food Co in Toronto, which generally focuses on healthy, sustainable food. So why did you decide to plate up junk food as “Jacques”?
Again that hilarious irony was important to me. I
love plating, it’s something I really enjoy but it’s
also something I don’t get to do that much in my
everyday work.
But as for the junk food thing, I guess I look at
healthy eating and sustainability and what that
means to me as a person. For me personally, it’s
not sustainable to eat tofu all the time. I tried to be
vegan for a year… I was so stressed out about food
so I just said, “Ergh, I’m not good at this.”
CHEF JACQUES LA MERDE a.k.a. Christine Flynn
WORDS LAUREN BRUCE PHOTOGRAPHY - PORTRAIT GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY FOOD IMAGES CHRISTINE FLYNN
867 likes
chefjacquelamerde: SOMETIMES PPL COME AT ME W/ “BRO,
HOW DO U KEEP IT SO TIGHT AND SO SOIGNÉ?!!!” AND MY
SECRET IS TO JUST ALWAYS COOK FROM THE HEART, BE REAL
AND TAKE INSPO FROM NATURE. I CALL THIS DISH “BUGS ON
A STICK” B/C THE CRAISINS R THE “BUGS” AND THE CHEEZE
WHIZ/CELERY IS THE “STICK.” ALSO CELERY SODA CAVIAR,
GRAHAM CRKR SOIL, CANOLA OIL PWDR + KALE SHREDS.
#foodporn #chefsofig #foodgasm #wildchefs #theartofplating
#soigné #truecooks #gastroart #hipsterfoodies #cheflife
#nextlevel #bereal
INTERVIEW INTERNATIONAL CHEF
20
I think you need to have balance in life – you have
to have a sense of humour and you can’t put too
many rules around what you eat. There’s so much
stuff out there that’s not happy that we have to
deal with every day, so what’s sustainable to me
is to make sure I laugh every day, and you know,
maybe I’ll have a handful of Doritos and it won’t be
the end of the world.
So has anyone eaten the food after you’ve plated/shot it?
I have a great photo collection of my dog eating
the food after I’m done. But yeah, there’s certainly
been a few that have been pretty edible, actually.
I didn’t grow up eating this food at all, so I hadn’t
really experienced any of the products until I
started the @chefjacqueslamerde account. So that
was kind of a draw card for me, because I was kind
of like, what IS this substance [laughs] and I picked
the weirdest things.
...Like Spam?
Yeah, Spam’s a good one, I’d never had Spam
before. Growing up in my house, we were dirt
poor, but we never ate processed food. It was so
foreign to me. So it’s been fun. And the nostalgic
component of it is cool. You know, Gummi Bears…
it’s fun to be around those things, to remember
what it’s like to be a kid when everything was
simpler.
So which photograph was your favourite? Is there one that stands out?
Well I love the Velveeta one. It was kind of a play
on another chef’s dish. It’s Velveeta Seven Ways,
and the simplicity of it was actually kind of what
was striking to me.
And then there was the Drumstick ice cream
shot, when I was going through this pretty rough
breakup and I was like, I’m just gonna write about
it on social media. And I was probably cry-eating
ice cream out of the tub at the time [laughs].
But you know, it’s a good thing to do, to create
things when you’re confused. Or upset. There are
so many positive things that can come out of that
- when you’re at your most raw, I think you’re also
at your most creative.
What made you decide to reveal your identity?
Well, it’s been a year [since I started the account]
and over the course of that year, I was spending
a lot of energy on my phone. You know, I want to
work on other projects and work with other chefs,
and you can’t do that when you’re anonymous.
So it was kind of time. Being a person that’s into
balance and collaboration and all these things, it
was time to go out there and be a real person.
Everyone thought a male chef was behind the account. The account was an alter ego that could’ve been male or female, so why do you think they made that assumption?
This is funny because I was very careful for a long
time never to reveal gender. Most of the names
were gender neutral, and my mum actually thought
Jacques’ sous chef “Jose” was “Josie”, which was
cute. And any time I mentioned someone else it
would be a name like Pat, or Leslie. So the whole
thing for me was a little bit of a social experiment.
I think though, when you have a chef who’s
throwing around the word “bro” all the time, then
yeah of course [it’s going to be assumed] it’s a
male.
And it was DELIGHTFUL for me to receive all
these direct messages that were like “BROTHER,
wassup? Your account is so tight! [laughs]”
And you know, women love “Jacques” too! I’d get
these direct messages on Instagram that were like
“I love you! And if you’re ever in wherever city, we
should hang out some time!”
Even one of my now good friends who wrote a
piece @chefjacqueslamerde for the Richmond
News – I had to finally call her and be like, “I’m not a
dude”. She was like, “Oh, I’m disappointed because
I kind of had the feels for you, but I’m also kind of
happy because it means it’s not gonna be weird
when you come and sleep on my couch” [laughs].
That’s hilarious. It’s interesting though… women in the food industry have to adopt a bit of that “bro culture” just to fit in with the kitchen as well?For sure. I mean, it took me a really long time to
find my way [in that world]. At first I was really…
1,575 likes
chefjacqueslamerde: FEAST OF THE SEVEN FISHES 2NITE
BROS!!! NOT SURE IF THIS COUNTS B/C I THINK MAYBE
OCTOPUS IS LIKE A CEPHALOPOD OR SUMTHIN BUT I
WONT TELL IF YOU DONT!!!!!! I CANT BELIEVE ITS NOT
(BROWN) BUTTER-SOUS VIDE OCTO, CRINKLE CUT TOP
DOGS, TINY ONIONS, MIRACLE WHIP DOTS, GINGERBREAD
SOIL, HICKORY STYX, PLANTS AND A LARGE SPOONFUL OF
POTATOES I MADE BY TENDERLY MIXIN 2GETHER POTATO
BUDS, HALF AND HALF AND SOME CAMPBELLS CREAMY
BUTTERNUT SOUP!!!!!
#feastofthesevenfishes #deliciousfishesdishes #merrychristmas
#seasonal #crinklecuthotdogs #octo #nomiku #tweezers
#moleculargastronomy #theartofplating #fourmagazine #hi
I was sweet; I was a pushover. And then I was very
tough. And I kind of transformed into a person that
I didn’t want to be, because I was worried people
wouldn’t respect me. Instead they were kind of
terrified of me, which I don’t think is much better.
I’m lucky now, I have a pretty good resume [which
makes that unnecessary] – and even though the
@chefjacqueslamerde account is all ranch dip
and cheese slices, the account has changed how
people look at me. And after it was revealed who
I am, I’m still kind of figuring that part out. But it’s
definitely helped me get to a place where instead
of being looked at as a “cool chick chef”, it’s more
like, “oh, she’s a cool chef”. It just teaches you that
you can’t pigeonhole people.
But you know, so many people were happy it was
me. A lot of male chefs who I respect were also
happy. It’s not just this “girl power” thing… it’s a
fun twist.
When you create an Instagram post, how long does it take you to come up with the dish, plate it up and then shoot and caption it?
So it’s just shot on an iPhone. I would usually,
after a stressful day at work or something, go to
the grocery store and probably spend about 15
minutes thinking about a little bit of a theme, and
I’d take the food home and I’d plate it, and that
would probably take around five minutes, and
then I’d write the caption.
Usually the caption is something that either
happened to me that day or maybe to one of
my friends. But usually it happened to me. Like
someone would drop a blender in the sink. And
we’d have a no-show. And I went through a break
up. So it was pretty easy to write about all of that
because it was actually happening.
...Kind of like a journal?
Oh yeah for sure. And I think social media is
fascinating, right, because we’re all constantly
branding ourselves, saying you know, how great life
is, it’s so amazing, we’re perfect, our makeup’s on
fleek – meanwhile [through @chefjacqueslamerde]
I’ve been like, “My life is falling apart! [laughs]”’
It was like this open, raw honesty that was like, you
know, we all have those days, and really the only
thing you can do is pull your socks up and carry
on. And crush it.
You can find the @chefjacqueslamerde account
on Instagram and online:
www.chefjacqueslamerde.com.
Enjoy 2 hours FREE parking on Market days
Wed 8am – 4pmFri 8am – 5pmSat 8am – 4pmSun 8am – 4pm
902 likes
chefjacquelamerde: 1567 COVERS LAST NIGHT AND OUR
POS WENT DOWN AT 5:45. BROS! I WAS SWEATIN BALLS!!!
3 HRS OF SLEEP AND BACK AT IT !!! #YOLO!!!! 2NITES
SPEC = HAWAIIAN BAGEL BITES, CHEETOS, BABY CARROT
+ RANCH PURÉE, SMALL VEGETABLES AND CHIPOTLE
OIL #foodporn #onthemenu2nite #chefsofig #wildchefs
#chefshare #theartofplating #gastroart #hipsterfoodies
22
23
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BRODIE WRIGHT - THE HUNGRY BABUSHKA
THE SPOT
Upon entering The Spot Café you are greeted by a bearded, smiley face.
A beard with more substance than one sported by any trend setting
Brunswick barista - a beard grown before beards were cool.
The man behind the beard is The Spot owner, Khalil Qubbaj.
The second thing that strikes you about Qubbaj is his unrestrained
enthusiasm for good food and great coffee. This is evident in The Spot’s
skilful selection of beans for their current house blend – brazenly going
against the grain of popular chocolate notes and brewing up a cup of joe
that will leave a sweet, fruity taste courtesy of 5 Senses’ Tightrope blend.
The Spot menu give a glimpse into Qubbaj’s journey, from his childhood
days watching his mum lovingly prepare meals for their family, to his new
life in Australia with wife Rim and their adventurous toddler, Mohammed.
Middle Eastern with a touch of Aussie Sunday breakfast, the meals are
exotic enough to pique your curiosity while still being approachable.
Popular dishes include Baked Moroccan Eggs topped with a cooling labne
and a sprinkle of tangy zaatar and the Super Salad of red kale, organic trio
quinoa, heirloom tomato and pomegranate jewels which bring all the health
food fanatics to their yard (and yes, they have to charge).
Importantly, the place is completely Instagram-worthy. The olive green,
perfectly padded stools from Schots Emporium that just invite you to
perch upon them and browse through the weekend paper, to the recycled
messmate timber table tops from Timber Revival (hand picked by Qubbaj,
of course) you’ll be snapping away before, during and after your meal
(#nofilterneeded).
THE SPOTShop 6 14-20 Nicholson Street, Coburg
instagram.com/thespotcoffee
facebook.com/thespotcoffeeandfood
D I G I T A L C U P S
WWW.DETPAK.COMAUSTRALIA 1300 362 620
Introducing Detpak’s revolutionary cup capability… high quality photographic print with optional high-build dimensional varnish. With no plate charges
and low run quantities starting at 12,000 cups this is the new reality!
Discover for yourself at MICE 2016. Stand #187.
Shop 6, 14-20 Nicholson Street, Coburg
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY MEGAN OSBORNE
BRAE4285 Cape Otway Road, Birregurra
Ranking high on any Melburnian foodie’s agenda, is
a trip to regional gastronomical heaven; Brae. With
a strong focus on organically grown produce and
respect for food and natural, sustainable production,
Brae dishes up a unique offering that stands out in
Australia’s food industry. Chef and Owner Dan Hunter
has been internationally recognised for producing and
creating a cuisine that not only tastes amazing, but
follows a philosophy that speaks volumes of the future
of food consumption.
With worldwide experience and a deep knowledge
of food preparation and creation, Hunter opened up
Brae in 2013, taking over, renovating and extending the
existing building. ‘I always wanted to be in this region.’
He says, ‘I used to come to Apollo Bay for holidays
as a kid.’ As well as having an affinity with the area,
Hunter’s most recent six-year stint at the Royal Mail
Hotel in Dunkeld enabled him to establish and build
relationships with producers west of Melbourne.
‘[There is] a great hub of alternative agriculture in this
region, from small berry farms to shiitake growers,’
says Hunter, and while he aims to organically grow the
majority of produce on the property, he’s also glad to
have set up shop in what he claims to be one of the
best regions in Victoria.
‘Brae is easy to get to’, Hunter laughs, ‘It’s literally two
left turns from Melbourne, one up Cape Otway Road
and one up the driveway.’ The drive from Melbourne
takes an hour and a half, but the trip is well worth
the mileage (and with swanky new accommodation
designed by Six Degrees Architects, you can choose
to relax as you digest your degustation, too). The small
vegetable garden that existed on the 30 acre property
in 2013, has grown to encompass many different types
of fruit and vegetables, including over 200 fruit trees
of figs, quinces, varieties of Japanese plums, apricots
and a lot of citrus, with plans to develop a wheat
crop, too. The aim is to grow as much seasonal fruit
and veg as possible, and to have first-hand access to
organic produce that would otherwise get negatively
affected with handling and transportation. ‘I struggle
to buy good food in a domestic marketplace that has
the same flavour as wholesale organic food, straight
from the grower. And it’s just time. It’s the middle man,
the handling, the cold storage, all those things shuts
everything down.’ Hunter says.
Brae’s practices focus on minimising (and in many
cases, eliminating) the amount of refrigeration that
happens. ‘There’s amazing fruit that we might pick at 6
o’clock in the evening, and someone’s eating it at 6:30
to 7pm, it’s still full of sunshine. Things like tomatoes
are never ever refrigerated’ he states passionately,
‘strawberries, no way. The flavour just disappears.
Then you’re working so hard to extract that flavour
again.’ With the right foundations for growing, storage
and handling, Hunter believes laying the groundwork
in advance is reflected in the end result—awesome
flavour.
A lot of the produce at Brae is picked the same day
that it ends up on your plate, with minimal influence
from the Western view on storage of primary products.
With exceptions of course, such as meat—which is
dry aged longer for secondary flavours to develop,
or in the fermentation of black garlic, which is grown,
cured, wrapped, then kept at 55 degrees for 30 days.
‘It caramelises and becomes like a black jelly, and it has
a taste of balsamic and vanilla. It’s just phenomenal.’
Hunter says, commonly pairing it with pork jowl, or
drying it out to make a rich, sweet and savoury garlic
powder for dusting. ‘The great skill in this type of
cuisine, is understanding the product, the best thing
for the product, and making that the priority.’
26
The menu at Brae is a degustation of the current season. ‘This time of year it’s very floral,
very alive, very green, it speaks of time as much as place’, Hunter says, adamant about
staying true to seasonality. ‘You won’t see tropical foods on the menu in winter, or hothouse
tomatoes from Queensland in July, because it’s not representative of what Brae is. I find it
much easier to work within the boundaries of seasonal variation than to buy externally, it
doesn’t sit well with me.’
The garden is grown with some key ingredients in mind, but what ripens and when, influences
the dishes on offer and fuels the kitchen’s creativity. ’It’s about being open to the gesture
of the nature that you’re in.’ Hunter states. Some of the most interesting combinations that
Brae has served up, sometimes only exist for a day or two. ‘That opportunity comes across
a couple of times a season, but it’s just about being in a spot and open minded, and having
an abundance of things around to be able to play with and play off. Because those things
can be aroma. They can be a brush against a leaf, or the smell of the way a plant reacts while
you’re eating something else.’ A previous unique combination has been super-fragrant white
strawberries paired with broad beans, and a stock made out of fig leaves infused into whey
from milk, iced down like a granita. ‘It was a really amazing combination of the strawberry
and the broad bean which I didn’t imagine. It was a beautiful, refreshing dish that just spoke
of a few days.’ Hunter’s excitement over unpredictable seasonal combinations is palpable.
‘Creating a flavour from a couple of ingredients that you think; shit that’s amazing, that’s a
dish right there.’
With a kitchen hosting nationalities from across the globe, people travel to work at Brae, and
they get an experience they can’t get anywhere else, using ingredients endemic to south east
Australia. The dining experience is loosely modelled on how Hunter
would host you, were you to dine at his house. From casual drinks
and finger food, to sit down vegetables and protein, finishing with
simple fruit-based desserts. The environment and presentation at
Brae verges on jaw-dropping, but the vibe is relaxed, warm and
engaging, with none of the pretension usually associated with
such a high-class dining experience. Initial courses are even served
without cutlery, encouraging patrons to eat with their hands. ‘We
like you to make a mess.’ Hunter says, ‘We often find that by doing
that, people that had any form of apprehension start to relax.’
For one to list stand-out dishes, there has to be some. At Brae, all
the dishes eclipse modern expectations of flavour, technique and
plating by such a grand scale, that to list the ‘stand-outs’, would
be to recite the whole menu. Each dish embodies an exciting
adventure, an experience truly delightful and immersive for diners.
The written menu at Brae lists only a few elements in each dish,
rather hoping to surprise and elicit curiosity. One dessert which
shattered perceptions of the humble parsnip, was simply titled
‘Parsnip and Apple’ and inspired oohs and aahs from around the
restaurant.
As a food writer, I spend a lot of time describing elements on a plate, but I find myself at
a loss putting my experience at Brae into words. The entire service staff are very close-
mouthed about what diners can expect to sample (until after said sampling), and now that
I’ve eaten, consumed, exclaimed and enjoyed the myriad tastes at Brae, I can understand
why they don’t want to design or influence expectations.
Dining at Brae is a unique experience, and understanding the effort, care and time that has
gone into planning, implementing, and managing the produce, adds an extra level to how
impressive the offering is.
If you’re interested in finding out about some of Hunter’s amazing techniques in the kitchen,
he will be releasing a cookbook in 2017 representing the restaurant, how it works in its
environment, and more about the local region. But if you’d rather sit back and indulge in a
foodie fantasy for four hours, then we’ll see you at the dining table.
BRAE4285 Cape Otway Road, Birregurra
PH: (03) 5236 2226
Open Thursday dinner, Friday to Saturday lunch and dinner.
Accommodation now available.
braerestaurant.com
THE FAMILY YOUWISH YOU HAD
REAL CRAFT BEER BREWED BY REAL PEOPLENO FAMILY MEMBERS WE HURT (MUCH) IN THE MAKING OF THIS BEER
560 FRANKSTON-DANDENONG RD. CARRUM DOWNS, VIC - tap room OPENING SOONWWW.DAINTONBREWING.COM.AU | FACEBOOK.COM/DAINTONFAMILYBREWERY
28
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WORDS CHARLEY MAY
TALKING INtonguesHanging out with seasoned winos can feel a bit like being the new kid at
school, catching public transport in a non-English speaking country or being
the last person to have seen the hottest new Netflix series… awkward and
confusing. Why? Because the language of wine is complicated, and if you
don’t speak it you can feel like an outsider. Yet when armed with the right
lingo ‘winespeak’ is easier to understand. So here are some of the terms
you’re likely to hear that’ll help you take part in the conversation.
ALTERNATIVE VARIETIESIt’s a term used in Australia to describe any other grape that isn’t chardonnay,
shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, merlot or semillon. You’re going to be drinking
more alternative varietals in the future… and that’s exciting because they’ll
cope better with climate change than many mainstream grapes and they
taste ace. So if you want to freshen up your glass, then get around white
and reds like fiano, vermentino, viognier, gruner veltliner, aglianico, graciano,
sangiovese and tempranillo. And these producers are making great ones:
ArtWine, Chalmers, Yalumba, Handorf Hill, Calabria Family Wines, Brown
Brothers, Coriole and S.C.Pannell.
BIODYNAMICA term that delights and divides the industry, this describes a philosophy
of winemaking that’s free of chemicals and more in touch with the natural
cycles of life and the universe. In the theory, the approach is believed to
have a beneficial effect on the quality and character of wine. In practice, it
can be hard to assess because it’s possible to make outstanding biodynamic
and conventionally crafted vino. While research is underway to assess
differences between them, sometimes you don’t need science to tell you
when something feels or tastes great, you just have to trust your instincts.
COOL-CLIMATEIt’s a pretty amusing term given Australia is one of the hottest and driest
continents on earth. However, it’s becoming trendy in the wine world and
is often used as a shorthand for quality… which is not always guaranteed.
To qualify as cool climate, a region needs to be located within a specific
latitude, have a certain temperature and elevation. Wines from cool climate
regions generally have less alcohol, higher acidity, a lighter body and more
subtle flavours than warm region peers. However, arguing about which type
of region is better is futile because if you plant the right grapes in the right
place, nurture them and bring them to life with care, then you can make
good wine from either. At the end of a day, it’s a matter of personal taste as
to which you prefer.
TERROIRPronounced ‘ter-waahr’, this is a French term with no literal English equivalent
that loosely translates to mean ‘a sense of place’. While this term is specific
to wine, it’s applicable to other food and drink, and describes a phenomena
where soil, climate and culture combine to give rise to something that
reflects its origins with a unique taste. If you’re a coffee fiend, you’ll know
that despite being made from arabica beans, two single-origin pours can
be worlds apart because where they’re grown and how they’re treated has
a big effect on their flavour. The same goes with wine, and these days most
Aussie winemakers are proud of where they’re from and want this to shine
through in their wines.
SINGLE-VINEYARDThis describes wines where the fruit has been sourced from just one
vineyard. These wines have been made to express the personality of this
specific place through flavour. While the ambition behind single-vineyard
wines is cool, the term seems to have been co-opted as a point of difference
that makes these wines somehow better than others that have been sourced
from multiple vineyards or regions. It’s a contentious issue, but you’ll find
both excellent and average wines made from single-vineyards or a blend of
many.
TEXTUREIt’s a term used to describe the ‘feel’ of wine. While we can smell and taste a
range of flavours in wine, we also have the capacity to feel if a wine is smooth,
minerally, slippery or coarse. These sensations are caused by the alcohol,
acid, sugar, tannins and a myriad of other natural compounds found in wine.
Each variety has it’s own natural textural fingerprint that can contribute to
the character of the wine. Or texture can be built into a wine using various
techniques. Either way, it’s a very important element to creating a three
dimensional tasting experience.
UNFILTERED WINEThese are wines that haven’t been filtered to remove the tiny particles, such
as dead yeast and sediment, before being bottled. There are two schools
of thought on filtering: that it’s a necessary step to producing stable, clear
wine, or that it strips out much of the wine’s character. There’s no need
to take sides, both approaches are just different and can produce equally
delicious wine.
WILD-FERMENTEDThis basically means letting the natural yeasts on the grape, vineyard and
winery do their thing instead of adding cultured yeast to the juice. There
are thousands of yeast strains that have been isolated over the years from
vineyards across the world and turned into cultures for winemakers to use.
Each strain is unique and can help bring out specific flavours and characters
in the wine. However, rather than relying on cultured yeast, more winemakers
are letting their vineyard’s indigenous yeast ferment the wine to give a truer
expression of where it’s from.
So fill your glass and be confident about what you’re saying because there
is no right or wrong when it comes to wine, just a bottle full of fun and good
banter.
A GUIDE TO UNDERSTANDING ‘WINESPEAK’
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SERVES 8
50 g (1¾ oz) sugar
2 pears, peeled, cored and cut into eighths lengthways
150 g (5½ oz) dark chocolate
90 g (3 oz) unsalted butter, cubed
90 g (3 oz) caster (superfine) sugar
90 g (3 oz) almond meal
3 eggs, separated
1 teaspoon cocoa powder for dusting
icing (confectioners’) sugar for dusting (optional)
Combine the sugar with 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) water in a
saucepan and set over a medium heat. Add the pear and poach
for 10–15 minutes, or until tender but not too soft (a knife should
easily penetrate the flesh without any resistance). Drain and let
the pear pieces cool.
Melt the chocolate over a bain-marie or double boiler. When
melted, remove from the heat, add the butter and stir until the
butter has melted. Add the sugar and almond meal, stirring to
combine. When the mixture is cool, add the egg yolks.
Preheat the oven to 180°C (360°F). Grease a 22–24 cm (8¾–9¼
in) round springform cake tin and dust with the cocoa powder.
In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites to firm peaks, then
fold them into the chocolate batter. Pour the chocolate mixture
into the tin. Arrange the pear pieces on the top of the batter,
pushing them slightly in. Bake for 40 minutes, or until a skewer
inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean.
When cool, remove the cake from the cake tin and, just before
serving, dust liberally with icing sugar, if desired. Serve in modest
slices – this is rather rich.
TORTA DI PERA E CIOCCOLATOPEAR AND CHOCOLATE CAKE
www.chefshat.com.au
Recipe taken from Florentine by Emiko Davies
published by Hardie Grant Books and available now
where all good books are sold.
FLORENTINE
by Emiko Davies
RRP: $49.99
32
There’s something special about going out to drink coffee.
It’s never been for the caffeine because honestly it does
nothing for me. I can go to sleep after an espresso and not
wake up for hours. It’s an experience with the cup I hold in
my hand and a relationship with the cafe and people who
work there. The more I feel toward a place or the person I
connect with, the better the coffee seems to taste and the
more I want to return. Every Friday, unless I have somewhere
else to be, you’ll find me at The St Kilda Dispensary drinking
coffee with owner Kristy Andruszko. I rarely meet anyone
there, because that way I get to chat with her and catch up
on the week’s events while she prepares my coffee, exactly
how I like it, vintage spoon on the side, ready for a photo,
perfect every time. It has become a weekly ritual and one
I don’t like to break.
The building used to be a thriving dispensary back in the
1940s and Kristy single-handedly transformed this into
a unique space with medical knick knacks she collected,
being sympathetic to its history, not wanting to follow the
minimalist industrial trend of stark white walls, blonde wood
and metal fixtures. At the same time back in 2013, coffee
in Melbourne had also taken a new direction favouring
lighter, fruitier roasts, but in her inimitable style Kristy went
with her heart and what she believed her customers would
want and chose Allpress and their original Supremo blend.
Combining three beans from Brazil, Colombia and PNG,
it has body, sweetness, a little acidity and a strong cocoa
flavour. The coffee cuts through milk like a knife, but always
blends beautifully to create a tasty well rounded cup. As it
is roasted a little darker I find I need a touch more milk in
my macchiato, but this is never an issue as it means a few
more sips for me.
I decided on this occasion to pay a visit to the roastery in
Collingwood to meet the team and check out their hot air
roaster, designed by Michael Allpress himself together with
engineer Mike Scobie in order to extract the sugars, develop
richness and length of flavour and produce a consistent,
even roast. From here the coffee is packed and labelled
by hand and baristas and cafe owners are encouraged to
participate in training offered on site. The sense of passion
and care I felt while there aligns perfectly with Kristy and
what she has set out to achieve at The St Kilda Dispensary,
so now when I drink my coffee every week, I understand
exactly why she chose this brand and why every cup is
made with such affection, making the taste just that little
bit sweeter.
Share in the Supremo love at -
The St Kilda Dispensary - 13 Brighton Rd St Kilda
Kitty Burns - 24 Acacia Pl, Abbotsford
Tall Timber - 60 Commercial Rd, Prahran
Friends of Mine - 506 Swan St, Richmond
Francis Winifred - 94 Winifred St, Oak Park
Pope Joan - 77-79 Nicholson St, Brunswick East
REVIEWS
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON
HERE FOR THE LONG HAUL: STONE BREWING - GO TO IPA
ALLPRESS ESPRESSO - SUPREMO BLEND
I have been quite deliberate in keeping my monthly GRAM
beer reviews (save for one) to beers brewed by independent
Australian breweries.
The local industry is vibrant and robust yet still has a way
to go to catch up with our friends in the UK, Europe, USA
and perhaps even New Zealand. It’s this point and my
inclination to root for the underdog that convinced me
to showcase local heroes who fight the good fight minus
the big marketing budget. But, like a well earnt holiday
reinvigorates the soul and broadens the mind, it can prove
beneficial to look to other parts of the world to see why
independent craft beer production and consumption is far
from a fad - it’s officially a “thing”.
Rock n’ Roll loving beer tragics Greg Koch and Steve
Wagner met through mutual friends and established Stone
Brewing in 1996 as a statement of defiance against the
tyrannical duopoly controlling the American beer industry.
Like any business, these guys had to endure many ups
and downs but fast forward to 2016 and Stone Brewing
grown to be one of the largest craft brewers in America
and, once their Berlin site is complete very soon, will be the
first American craft brewer to own and operate a brewery
in Europe. While this success is amazing for a couple of
guys that have stuck to their beliefs about beer, its contents
and ownership, I guess one could point out the irony of the
Berlin move given Stone preach a genuinely local ethos.
Others would say, “Who cares as long as the beer is good”.
I’ll allow you guys to make your own minds up.
Anyway, let’s talk about this beer. Stone’s Go To IPA came
out in early 2014 riding the wave of requests from their
customers for a tasty, hop forward beer that they can enjoy
all day. The result was a superb drinking experience brewed
with 8 different hops and a well-rounded malt backbone
that gives you a strong tropical fruit hit on the nose, a
controlled hoppy hit at 65 IBU’s and enough cerebral
coherence to talk all night about the footy, why Vikings
is a better TV series than Game Of Thrones or the new
Snapchat filters or… whatever! It is a beer that would sit
just as comfortably on a table at a high-end restaurant as
it would in a stubby holder at the beach. Definitely a Go To
IPA. Available at most good beer venues and bottle shops
around Melbourne and regional Victoria. Cheers!
ABV: 4.5%
STYLE: India Pale Ale
SERVING TEMP: 4 degrees
ORIGIN: Escondido, San Diego California (US)
FOOD PAIRING: Spicy Mexican
PRICE (RRP): Bar or Restaurant $9-12 (355ml)
BUY IT HERE: experienceitbeverages.com.au
allpressespresso.com.au
8415 5777
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If you had told me ten years ago that I would one day write
about a cream sherry, I would have immediately conjured
up images of the Australian McWilliams version in my
head – the one that I used to sip in the summer sunshine
with my Nonna on a special occasion. Fast forward to
today and I am writing about a very different wine made
in a very different style.
Toro Albalá have been making wine in the Montilla region
of southern Spain for quite some time. In fact, they are
sort of renowned as experts in the matter. This example is
made entirely from Pedro Ximénez (PX) grapes that were
made into Oloroso sherry and blended over ten years in a
solera system, a method that adds fresh wine to old wine
and builds complexity in flavour and aroma. Add a dash
of their famous Don PX Gran Reserva and the result is
exquisite.
Pale amber in colour you are immediately drawn into the
glass by aromas of toasted walnuts, vanilla, salted caramel
and dried apricots. On the palate you would not call it very
sweet, so for those expecting a viscous style of PX, look
elsewhere. The overall effect is delicate with the subtle
salted caramel and nut flavours carrying it far. Sip it slowly
and enjoy the walnut skin-like texture at the finish with
ice-cream, fruits and citrus-based desserts.
Montilla, Spain
RRP $26 for 500ml
Stockist: Try Prince Wine Store in South Melbourne
REVIEWS
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LA DONNA DEL VINO
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BAR/D UP
LOOP ROOF
TORO ALBALÁ MARQUÉS DE POLEY CREAM PEDRO XIMÉNEZ NV
In collaboration with Tequila Tromba
A rooftop is always the perfect vantage point to
get a feel for the surrounding city, and if you can
be holding a drink in your hand while doing it...
even better! Between Little Collins and Bourke
in Meyers Place you’ll find Loop Roof perched
high in the sky three floors above the Loop
Project Space & Bar. In a place like Melbourne
where it can be a scorching 35 degrees one
minute, then 18 degrees and raining the next,
you need to be prepared for all seasons. With
retractable awnings, heaters and a misting
system you can be cool or cozy regardless of
the weather.
Attracting some of the city’s best bartenders,
there are quality beverages being made here,
including shared jugs like the Lagerita made
with Tequila Tromba blanco and finished with a
bottle of Corona for a refreshing easy to drink
twist on a classic Margarita. There’s a small food
menu that changes regularly to suit the seasons,
tasty bites all designed to share with friends.
If you like to sit and sip amongst lush greenery
with the sky so close you can almost touch it,
then the Loop Roof Cocktail Bar and Garden -
Melbourne is a little Garden of Eden in an urban
jungle.
Head to bardup.com.au to check out the video.
INSTAGRAM: bardupmelb
FACEBOOK: bardupmelb
LOOP ROOFLEVEL 3, 23 MEYERS PLACE,
MELBOURNE, VIC, 3000
03 9654 0500
LOOPROOFTOPBAR.COM.AU
N E W C O O K B O O K A V A I L A B L E N O W
T H E G U I D E . W E B S I T E / F L O R E N T I N E
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OUT AND ABOUT
MJR TOM NEW DINNER MENU LAUNCH
With a new dinner menu featuring Latin inspired eats from head chef Sam Kearney, a selection of Melbourne’s foodies and bloggers were invited to the launch at MJR TOM in Collingwood, executed to perfection by owner Nick Tiktikakis in collaboration with the team at True Tribe. Dishes included a mushroom parfait, kingfish
ceviche, marinated baby mackerel on squid ink rice cracker, crab & coconut croquetas, octopus on confit potato and many more, all paired with great wine and beer. Guests also took home a goodie bag with products from Sample Brew, Pana Chocolate and Romcaffè.
INNOVATE YOUR PLATE
World-renowned Marcus Oldham College brought together the movers and shakers from regional agribusinesses to celebrate an evening of innovation, collaboration and entrepreneurship with the ‘Innovate the Plate’ event this
month. The event aimed to put the spotlight on some of Australia’s leading agribusiness entrepreneurs and provide insight into their innovative business journey throughout the ‘paddock to plate’ process.
PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG
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THE DIARY
4 - 13 March 2016THE MELBOURNE FOOD AND WINE FESTIVALVarious Venues across Victoria
The 2016 Melbourne Food and Wine Festival presented by Bank of Melbourne will run from March 4 to 13 in Australia’s culinary capital, Melbourne.
Gather along the Yarra River to enjoy free entertainment and provincial flavours at the River Graze, sharpen your skills at a MasterClass or sip your way through the world’s vineyards with wine tastings and pairings galore.
Indulge your senses at the Bank of Melbourne World’s Longest Lunch, or go regional in 24 lunching locations outside of Melbourne, and enjoy the best produce Victoria has to offer.
Whether you are a seasoned foodie or just looking for something new, there’s a smorgasbord of events to try. Join Melbourne Food and Wine Festival for ten days of unforgettable food and wine experiences.
Book now and full event line up: melbournefoodandwine.com.au
12 - 13 March 2016TASTES OF RUTHERGLEN57 Main Street, Rutherglen
Tastes of Rutherglen 2016 is Rutherglen’s premiere wine and gourmet food event.
With award-winning wineries partnering with leading regional chefs and producers, Tastes of Rutherglen is the perfect way to sample the best of what the region has to offer.
This event not only showcases Rutherglen’s outstanding wines and food, it also gives you the chance to get behind the scenes at many of the wineries to learn about the history and hard work that goes into making world class wines.
Experience all the fantastic wine, food and events at Tastes of Rutherglen.
tastesofrutherglen.com.au
19 March 2016BENDIGO CRAFT BEER AND WINE FESTIVALTom Flood Sports Centre, Bendigo
Take in a day full of some of the best handcrafted beers and ciders produced in Australia, taste a range of gourmet foods all while relaxing on the grassed arena listening to a variety of artists playing live music.
The Bendigo Craft Beer and Cider Festival brings together an amazing range of award winning craft beers and ciders from all over the state and beyond, come along and re acquaint yourself with some of the returning brewers or try from some festival first timers, a great day is sure to be had by all.
Explore and discover over 100 craft beers and ciders. From micro breweries you’ve never heard of, special one-off brews, right through to varieties you know and love.
bendigocraftbeerfestival.com.au
17 - 19 March 2016MELBOURNE INTERNATIONAL COFFEE EXPOMelbourne Showgrounds
The Melbourne International Coffee Expo is back for 2016, with an incredible range of new features to engage every segment of the supply chain.
Now in its fifth year, MICE has become the largest coffee-dedicated event in the region, and one of the biggest in the world.
Café owners, roasters, baristas, equipment manufacturers, distributors and service providers are among the more than 10,000 visitors who flock to this event every year.
internationalcoffeeexpo.com
13 March 2016MAD HATTER’S MARSANNE PARTYMadame Brussels, Level 3, 59 Bourke Street, Melbourne
Madame Brussels is flinging open her doors to reveal the magical Mad Hatter’s garden. Indulge in free flowing Tahbilk Marsanne, served many ways, and delectable desserts at the party of all parties.
The moment you enter Wonderland your senses will be tantalised with delicious desserty delights and free flowing Marsanne, served in many ways. Are you Alice or are you the Mad Hatter?
Come and play with Madame Brussels to find out.http://www.melbournefoodandwine.com.au/program/mad-hatters-marsanne-party-6139
9-11 March 2016SQUARE MARKETThe Atrium, Federation SquareGlobal payments technology company Square has invited Melbourne’s favourite small business heroes to join it for Square Market, a unique popup marketplace celebrating small business at Federation Square.
Over three days, businesses that you know and love—Market Lane Coffee, Shortstop Coffee & Donuts, Mork Chocolate, That Dapper Chap, Butterbing Cookies, Those Girls, Cobb Lane Bakery, Adriano Zumbo, Sensory Lab, Hunters’ Roots, 5 & Dime Bagel and many more—are joining emerging artists, homewares designers, illustrators, crafters and buskers to sell direct to the public at one of the city’s most iconic destinations.
“Whether you’re looking for great coffee or doughnuts, local art to street art, markets or makers, Melbourne has something to for everyone to enjoy, ” commented Square’s Australian Country manager, Ben Pfisterer. “Melbourne’s small businesses are as diverse as its neighbourhoods. Since opening our office in Melbourne in May 2015, Square has partnered with and powered the local small business community and we wanted to give back to the heroes who help create this diverse and interesting element of Melbourne’s cultural identity.”
Different sellers are invited back on different days, to create a constantly changing and evolving retail space where small businesses can trade to a bustling crowd and compete with bigger businesses right on their home turf. Ben Pfisterer said, “Square is committed to empowering sellers with the tools to grow their business, and Square Market is all about giving sellers a platform to promote themselves, sell their products or service and offer a memorable customer experience designed to bring customers back to their business again and again in the future.”
Square Market is open daily from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. from 9–11 March. Enter via The Atrium at Flinders Street, Federation Square. Entry to Square Market is completely free. Stop in and support Melbourne’s finest small businesses.
https://squareup.com/au/townsquare/square-market-federation-square/
Better Service... Bigger Results!
beller.com.au 03 8532 2222Level 4, 613 St Kilda Road, Melbourne
ULTRA PRIME RETAIL PREMISES WITH MASSIVE DOUBLE FRONTAGE
• Rare Opportunity to Secure One of Acland Street’s Best Retail Premises
• Suit a Variety of Uses (STPA)
• Building Area: 180 sqm* Over 2 Levels
• Surrounded by National Tenants Including Coles, Sportsgirl, Industrie, and Hairhouse Warehouse to Name a Few
• First Floor Offices / Storage
• Rear Services Courtyard
ALBERT PARK MANOR
• Landmark Restaurant/Café/Bar
• North-West Facing Alfresco Forecourt
• Build in Outdoor Seating
• Planning Permit Approved (STCA)
• Grease Trap, Gas & Exhaust Provisions
• Three Phase Power
• Tenancy Area: 280 sqm*
• Secure On-Site Parking
• Male, Female and Disabled Toilets
• Bin Store and Wash
• Large On-Site Storage Area
• Footpath Dining Available
The recently refurbished Albert Park Manor was built in the early 1900’s and was originally utilized as a veteran’s hospital after WW1, the building boasts charming original heritage details carefully blended with designer modern features.
Situated in the “Domain Precinct”, Melbourne’s most elite and sought after suburb near the corner of Toorak and St Kilda Roads, South Yarra, this broad fronted property will surely impress.
Surrounded by iconic Melbourne locations and restaurants such as Entrecote, Hotel Gitan and the Botanical. Don’t miss your opportunity to secure one of the areas last hospitality venues.
ELWOOD’S BEST RETAIL
• Ideal For Hospitality Use
• Tenancy Area: 67 sqm* + Storage Cage
• Planning Permit Approved
• Exhaust/Grease Trap
• Infrastructure Ready
• GoGet Cars in Neighbourhood
• Three Phase Power
• Available Mid 2016
Melbourne’s beachside suburb of Elwood is nestled between St Kilda and Brighton eight kilometres south of the CBD
Sometimes viewed as a leafy extension to St Kilda, it has it’s own quaint charm and character, but is close enough to the best of St Kilda’s offerings. Ormond Road, Elwood is known by the local’s for it’s abundance of trendy coffee hangouts, eateries that cater for all true foodies and shopping for all those last minute gifts. With plenty of on-street parking within the area, there are also GoGet community share vehicles for those environmentally persuaded.
The nearby beaches are lined with parks and paved walking and bicycle tracks, perfect for that lunch time run and outdoor exercise. The abundance of apartments nearby will guarantee a solid customer base for your business. Make your mark in Elwood!
BRAND NEW RETAIL SPACES IN PRIME LOCATION
Four brand new retail spaces available from 2016 forming part of the new Atherton & Atkinson mixed use development.
Centrally located in the heart of Oakleigh with great exposure.
• Shop 1: 122 sqm*
• Shop 2: 126 sqm*
• Shop 3: 66 sqm*
• Cafe / Restaurant: 106 sqm*
*approx
*approx
*approx
*approxRichard Munday 0418 180 919
Sam Fogarty 0414 288 229 Richard Munday 0418 180 919
Sam Fogarty 0414 288 229
Liam Rafferty 0421 886 655
154 - 156 ACLAND ST, ST KILDA
LOOKING FOR CAFE/RESTAURANT SPACE IN THE SUBURBS? CALL MELBOURNE’S LEADING COMMERCIAL SUBURBAN AGENTS.Brendan Goss 0400 575 596
Liam Rafferty 0421 886 655
Richard Munday 0418 180 919
Sam Fogarty 0414 288 229
Fred Nucara 0418 567 560
405 ST KILDA ROAD, ST KILDA
84 ORMOND ROAD, ELWOOD
63 - 65 ATHERTON ROAD, OAKLEIGH
FOR LEASE
FOR LEASE
FOR LEASE
FOR LEASE
FOR LEASE
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FOR LEASE
Artist Impression
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Boundaries are indicative only
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