16 Sandwich and Snack News June 2005SANDWICH REVIEW
Greggs: ‘just out ofthe kitchen’ freshnessIt takes a good operator to expand rapidly and also maintain high quality standards. Greggs seems tohave achieved both, according to Nellie Nichols, Pret’s ex-head of food, now turned consultant, whocontinues her series for Sandwich & Snack News with a look at the High Street baker turnedsandwich maker
I’m going to tell you a secret.It’s not necessarily somethingto be proud of, but I’m
definitely not ashamed of iteither. It’s something I do, butI’m not the only one. Far fromit – builders and painters do it;lots of naughty (yet to be Jamieindoctrinated) children, JohnnieVaughan from the BreakfastShow at Capital Radio, and theboys from Right Said Fred do it.
We are talking here abouteating Greggs Sausage Rolls -
or rather, it used to just beSausage Rolls until theylaunched the All Day BreakfastSausage Beans and CheeseMelt, which is awesome, hangthe fat and calories.
Don’t get me wrong, this isnot something I eat often or Iknow I would becomeenormous – just now and then.If I walk past on a cold andrainy day and that wonderfulwarm pastry smell fills thestreet, I sort of … well … haveto go in!
Jackie is the Manager ofGreggs in the Fulham Roadand is the owner of a big widesmile that lights up her face.She’s worked at Greggs fornearly eleven years she tells me.In fact, she doesn’t think she’llever work for anyone else. Nordoes Angela who’s workedthere for eight years. They lovethe company who, they say,looks after them very well -they care a lot. Then there arethe customers, they care aboutthem too. And there are clearlya lot of them as well; fourmillion every week going into1,000 shops nationwide, withthe recent expansion in Europeof four stores which haveopened in Belgium.
This is a simple familybakery success story started inthe 1930’s with a target
turnover in excess of £1 billionby 2010. And they built it oncare. At least 1% of profits aredonated to charity every year,along with a Charitable Trustthat runs a lot of care in thecommunity projects.
So what of the product?Their sandwiches certainlydon’t stay on the shelves forlong. But Jackie and lots ofothers like her are more thanhappy to go and make upanything you like that’s missingwhile you wait. In any storeyou are met with a smile and agenuine ‘nothing is too muchtrouble’ attitude that is lackingin far too many outletsnowadays.
The shop is busy and thequeue is building up so I’m offto try a selection of sandwichespersonally chosen by Jackieand her team; some personalfavourites and others they arekeen to recommend.
Piri Piri Chicken comes in aSesame and Poppy Seedcovered roll, the very goodspicy chicken is layered withcare and generously spilling outof the front. It’s made withsour cream mayo as a foil forthe chicken which has attitudeand a good mixture of differentleaves. This is a filling and veryreasonable £1.95. However, theweight of all the chicken is
slightly squashing the leavesthat I think would possibly bebetter placed on top.
There’s a new line ofBaguettes, baked and filled instore. I tried the MatureCheddar with Apple Ale andChilli Relish (£1.75). Thecheddar slices are positionedin triangles invitingly pokingout but again the lettuce isunder the weighty cheese andneeds to be moved. I love theRelish and it works very wellwith the cheese but thebaguette is a little underbaked and is definitelyneeding five more minutes inthe oven for a golden tan.
The Tuna Crunch Bloomerhas every characteristic a Tunasandwich should have. Themarket place is saturated withaverage tuna sandwiches. Buta simple product so easy toget wrong is here for all totaste, a shining example ofnear perfection at £1.85. TheBloomer bread is soft, fluffyand firm and inviting all atthe same time, like the bestpillow you have ever put yourhead on when you are trulytoo tired. The Tuna isperfectly mixed with crunchypieces of red onion and redpepper and delicious mayo.Delicate mixed leaves round itoff. This is a tuna sandwich
worth going to try - I don’tknow of a better one.
Red Leicester and SpanishOnion at £1.55 on Wholemealbread is a tasty combinationbut has some tired cucumberspoiling it and the filling isn’tspread to the edges whichalways makes me throw thecrusts away I’m afraid. I don’tneed too much encouragement(so don’t have curly hair.)
Chicken and Bacon onMalted Bread (£1.85) is goodand the bacon is lovely with agood smokey taste. And goodto have some change from£2.00 and a good and tastysandwich.
The Sandwich of the Weekis Egg Mayo Tomato
Cucumber and Lettuce bulgingat a giveaway £1.00. Thatflaccid cucumber is backthough and the sandwichaches for some black pepper.
But true value for themoney again is the naughtyJumbo Sausage Rolls at 62pand the wondrous SausageCheese and Bean Melt at£1.00 – the big selection ofhot products have a seriousMecca following, and justlydeserved.
So when all is said anddone, its clear expansion to anenormous national size looksachievable. There is greatcontinuity throughout theirstores in food and service,genuine affection and trueteam spirit.
The cucumber is easilyfixable, as is the elevation ofthe lettuce. The quality isthere to be offered again andagain by sandwiches made onsite, affording that wonderful‘just out of the kitchen’freshness. Long may it last.See you soon Jackie.
This review is based on NellieNichols' own independent views
NELLIE NICHOLS IS AFOOD CONSULTANTCONTACTABLE [email protected]
Our selection included:
Piri Piri Chicken on Sesame/Poppy Seed Roll £1.95Cheddar Apple Relish Baguette £1.75Tuna Crunch Bloomer £1.85Red Leicester & Spanish Onionon Wholemeal £1.55Chicken & Bacon on Malted £1.85Egg Mayo Sandwich of the Month £1.00Jumbo Sausage Roll £0.62All Day Breakfast Sausage & Bean Melt £1.00
